A tip for the "flat spots" when converting round geometry to STL: you should be able to set the resolution for the STL files somewhere. Higher resoultion means more processing time and slightly bigger files, but that would probably save you a lot of time spackeling and sanding the moulds.
Wow I’ve never heard of an electric car with a transmission outside of the Taycan. Is the motor for the Nissan the same way? Also why not just use the 3D print as the tunnel? You can always coat it more and paint it, right? Seems like that would be perfectly fine for a build like this.
You don't give yourself enough credit! While there is some "trial and error" in your efforts(who hasn't?), you're quick to learn from them! And you're humble enough to share that knowledge with us, instead of editing it out! In the end though, the results are always excellent! WAY better than most, that's for sure! So keep up the great content! We'll be here to enjoy the journey!
I'm extremely impressed man! The only thing you might want to take a look at is the vicinity of the accelerator pedal to the tunnel. I might be looking at it wrong, but it looks quite close, and that the pedal pad was removed. If the owner is going to carpet, you want to make sure the accelerator pedal doesn't get stuck on the carpet and that his/her foot fits on the pedal properly, and not on the outside of their foot. Other than that, love the builds and videos. You have a natural talent for fabrication.
This is the second time we've seen you do 3-D printed parts that were only to be used as a plug for Fiberglas. If the 3-D printed parts were made a little thicker and made from the "right" material, why wouldn't they be good enough? Sand them smooth and maybe cover them in a vinyl material. The process you show looks to be VERY painful/ labor intensive.
I have a question, I 3d print a lot, Why don't you just print a part that is thick so it will become strong and use it instead of using fiberglast? especially if you use the very strong filaments to print with like ASA or ABS? So just print with PLA and 1 wall thickness to test the fitment then switch to ABS or ASA with more thickness. it will save you a lot of work and let the printer do the hard work I love your channel I have been subbed for 3 years now, keep it up Jeremy
@@ElectricSuperCar I was thinking this as well. Or, why not print the part to be the mold itself already? Wouldn’t you be able to just finish the internal cavity and lay fiberglass in it?
There is a touch of pride in this work. It is not just a job but a work of a craft. Like the old carpentry instead of quick ikea part. Parts turn out great when worker builds stuff to be proud of instead of money. Some say it is wasted hours but result is a marvel. And this part looks like it came with the car. Or actually better.
The part looked great! when you say 3d print of the mold what do you mean? after the coat of drywall on the print, add a layer of mold release/mold release film and fiberglass over that then you can vacuum down against the print. Rather than print a positive to mold a negative to fiberglass positive, what if you print a positive and make the part positive over it, just make an allowance in the print for the thickness of the material
hi a little tip with the hot stapler when using the wiggle wire to staple push it in to the depth you want then turn it about a 1 to 2 mm then release the staple this will create a stronger join keep up the great work as a panel beater it brings a smile on me dial seeing others enjoy working on cars weather electric or gas guzzlers cheers from down under
It's astounding to see all the processes than you use in constructing this vastly-improved MGA. I sweated profusely, and I itched the whole time I was watching this...😆🤣 Wishing YOU all the best...especially during THIS phase of your journey. Aloha!
Have you considered after checking that the part fit from 3d printing to use the software to create a negative of the part to directly print a mold? Seems it would save some working time though more downtime to print the mold as well. I'm not an expert but its something I've been considering for a project I'm planning.
Success? I lost 7 subscribers releasing this video. I still don't think I have figured out how to make TH-cam happy. 🙃 I guess at least I am having fun trying.
@@ElectricSuperCar Don't get hung up on the analytics, with TH-cam it's like rolling the dice. You're not far away from the big time. Just keep doing what you're doing. If I was in the US I'd come work for you for minimum wage to learn from you and help speed your process. You're a machine.
Olias on Bambu Forums explained it well I think. "As far as the slicer is concerned. All files that are migrated into the slicer end up being a mesh. The difference is that a STL file starts out as a mesh whereas a STEP file has more precise measurements overall. It may help to understand the distinction between a STEP and an STL. An STL is a mesh made of triangles(sometimes imprecisely referred to as polygons in some slicers) that are linked together. A STEP file on the other hand is a series of mathematical equations mapped out on a 3D X,Y,Z coordinate system. STEP files provide much more detail and far more accurate dimensions when describing things like lines, curves and arcs. STL files have to try to “approximate” a curve by cutting down the shape into finer and finer mesh."
Ever considered printing out the panel and just wrapping it in fiberglass or carbon fiber instead? I would like to do the 3D printer one day and just curious if there is a down side.
@@ElectricSuperCar yeah I figured it would lesson the process. And seen one guy use a plastic in his 3D printer that is better for heat and stronger uses it just as panels only. Though I feel like I’d want to layer it in fiberglass.
I’m not all the way through the video, but why even make another mold and a separate part, why not just put fiberglass and then carpet over the top of this tunnel piece and be done with it? Heat resistance? Flexing with the body?
Its crazy that old car has a wooden floor. Imagine the damage or injuries you would get if you ran something over like a post, it would tear you a new one. Nice job with the 3d printing.
A suggestion for mold making. You can use a lighter-weight fiberglass for your first layer when making the mold, then use some 3M spray adhesive to help tack the fiberglass sheet in place so you don't run into the resin curing issue.
I would LOVE to make a hardtop for my MR2 spyder using this technique. However, my 3D printer is only 300x300x300 mm so I would have to brake the 3D printed mold into something like 64 parts! LOL!
I've done some fibre glass myself and it's not easy so well done with this. Will you need to build a hoop over the propshaft in case of failure to prevent it ending up in the cabin?. The old steel tunnel would have been much stronger but maybe the Netgear motor is not powerful enough to be an issue.
I've seen a few recommendations for better/smoother CAD-to-3d print parts. And while increasing STL resolution DOES help, if you have a slicer that can natively import STEP files, that's even better--it's a more 'lossless' translation, as it's not converting your file into triangles/polygons. Best of luck to you!
You should be able to set a higher resolution/quality mode on the export to STL format in your cad software to eliminate those flat spots on the curves.
due to unusual circumstances my brother was forced to watch this vid with me. I spent half the show telling him your backstory (a la TH-cam) and how you seem to have more toys now, than before you were let go. 😂 This kind of content is a form of torture to him
Not proficient? I mean, sure, the resolutions at the end (thanks, by the way) would have gotten you there faster, but you can't go on hindsight and the part looks amazing. Look at where you came from, now you go about it with a 3D scanner, CAD, fiberglass mold, ... looking mighty professional to me.
Ordered me a range 2, i'm one step closer to having the ultimate toolbox .. :) now I have stuff even my mechanics dont have... whats the most one use tool you have ?? I can program the chip ECM for my 91' and older suburbans
Total composite newbie here with wo questions: 1, why are you so careful removing the plug and mold from the part? Do you keep those somewhere, for some reason? Or are you just careful to keep the part nice? 2, you answered by saying you'd print the mold next time and skip a step. Nice work!
For joining 3D printed parts, I'm wondering if it would be possible to use Prusa slicer's feature for creating pegs to join parts. It would require making the part thicker around the joints, but would save some manual work of plastic welding or gluing parts together after.
Man that was awesome! It wasn't until about the 12 min mark I realized you were creating a negative mold, I agree with your comments about how to do it better, but I def enjoyed watching the process.
You can increase the detail of STL files to minimize the faceting effect. My slicer can work with STEP files so I do that instead. STEP files are a true mathematical representation of the geometry instead of STL's linear interpolation that causes faceting. 3MF files also store geometry like STEP files. There are more options but that's what is common. Depending on the minimum step sizes on the the printer itself, you may still end up with minor faceting as the printer controller will eventually have to do a linear interpolation to conform to a Cartesian coordinate system.
Something you can use to stiffen your mold plugs is fill the backside with a two part foam. Once it's expanded it can be trimmed flush and since it bolds to the form, it makes everything duper rigid. If you can't get the two part foam components for some reason, "Great Stuff" is a good substitute though it might cost a little more.
You should verify your stl conversion parameters, because you can increase the number of faces for each poligon that will make up the 3d part in the 3d printer software. This way you'll avoid those flats on the round faces.
Great video giving me plenty of ideas for my own build. Was gonna suggest 3d printing the mould so glad I waited till the end to comment 😂 1 question though, could you not just use the 3d printed part? If it’s for strength you could model wee pockets on the underside to strengthen with a metal plate or strap?
Thought, you had good reason to make print of the part, test the fit and placement of the part. What if you printed a skeleton / course wireframe of that, for that purpose? Printing the mold with flanges would be a win!
I like that you added what you would do different at the end of the process in the video, Jeremy. It shows that you are evolving you processes as you progress, and that is always good. With the video, you take us along for the thought process behind those changes, which is very educational. Almost time to apply a layer of tinfoil to the outside of your inflatable paint-booth to mitigate some of the heating issues, or have another structure provide shade and move some air to around for additional cooling.
You mentioned flanges, Using alignment tabs would make easier to mate two parts. Use some ducted fans with expanding tubes to draw in air from cooler place then exit toward top?
You dont need to convert model to STL file, modern slicers ie prusa slicer, super slicer and orca slicer can work with step files and fully preserve curves.
If you are going to 3d print multi pieces parts more often, I suggest you separate the pieces with a zigzag pattern and not a straight line. I think that would make it easier and more accurate to join later.
With a 3D printed model, why don't you create pins to join the pieces? You only need the inner side for casting and you have connecting notches on the outer side so that the pieces fit into each other? I think that would save you a lot of time and work.
I have a portable tire inflator which I kickstarted years ago, and it works, but the display is not well done. I was going to look for one, so thanks for the review. Also, you could put some ice at your ventilation fan of the booth, would temper a bit, but could add moisture too.
Wait a minute... No integrated cupholders???😮 😜 Awesome progress! Both on the car and developing your car building skills. (And great you realized to late that you should've printed the mold with the flanges as i had suggested previously😂)
Got a question, probabaly a stupid question. Why do you have to make a fiberglass mold? Can't you just lay carbon fiber on the plug and have it cured there?
@@ElectricSuperCar You have a good point. I'd like to see how well ASA, ABS, PEEK and ULTIM handle the long term UV and heat.... water definitely no problems for most plastics.
Portable compressor: www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1QHFSNB?maas=maas_adg_2857DFB706E4489EA1A999ED8E694974_afap_abs&ref_=aa_maas&tag=maas
#SYNCWIRE #PortableAirCompressor
A tip for the "flat spots" when converting round geometry to STL: you should be able to set the resolution for the STL files somewhere. Higher resoultion means more processing time and slightly bigger files, but that would probably save you a lot of time spackeling and sanding the moulds.
Good call!
Wow I’ve never heard of an electric car with a transmission outside of the Taycan. Is the motor for the Nissan the same way? Also why not just use the 3D print as the tunnel? You can always coat it more and paint it, right? Seems like that would be perfectly fine for a build like this.
I am not sure a plastic tunnel on an open air roadster would work well. Too much UV, temperature, and moisture to last long
For someone who is "not proficient" the part came out really nice! Well done!
Thanks!
HA! Yep, hot days and polyester resin means double time layups. Looks great, the customer will love it. Much nicer than the old sheet metal cover.
You don't give yourself enough credit! While there is some "trial and error" in your efforts(who hasn't?), you're quick to learn from them! And you're humble enough to share that knowledge with us, instead of editing it out! In the end though, the results are always excellent! WAY better than most, that's for sure! So keep up the great content! We'll be here to enjoy the journey!
Thanks friend!
Solid progress. Looks better by every day.
Thanks Friend!
@@ElectricSuperCar you doing an awesome job.
Can somebody explane why you don't fiberglass directly onto the 3d printed part and just left the 3d printed part inside as part of the structure.
I'm extremely impressed man! The only thing you might want to take a look at is the vicinity of the accelerator pedal to the tunnel. I might be looking at it wrong, but it looks quite close, and that the pedal pad was removed. If the owner is going to carpet, you want to make sure the accelerator pedal doesn't get stuck on the carpet and that his/her foot fits on the pedal properly, and not on the outside of their foot. Other than that, love the builds and videos. You have a natural talent for fabrication.
You nailed it! With the transmission moved over, all the pedals need to move over as well
@@ElectricSuperCar awesome bro! You're on top of it! Love the content and the fabrication!
Really professional looking end result.
Thanks Friend!
You are awesome 😎😎😎
Feels good while watching your videos ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Thank you so much 😀
This is the second time we've seen you do 3-D printed parts that were only to be used as a plug for Fiberglas. If the 3-D printed parts were made a little thicker and made from the "right" material, why wouldn't they be good enough? Sand them smooth and maybe cover them in a vinyl material. The process you show looks to be VERY painful/ labor intensive.
The cost of quality
I have a question, I 3d print a lot, Why don't you just print a part that is thick so it will become strong and use it instead of using fiberglast? especially if you use the very strong filaments to print with like ASA or ABS?
So just print with PLA and 1 wall thickness to test the fitment then switch to ABS or ASA with more thickness. it will save you a lot of work and let the printer do the hard work
I love your channel I have been subbed for 3 years now, keep it up Jeremy
Interesting 🤔
@@ElectricSuperCar I was thinking this as well. Or, why not print the part to be the mold itself already? Wouldn’t you be able to just finish the internal cavity and lay fiberglass in it?
Oop… just finished the video 😂
Damn, that part looks great! 😮
Thanks Friend!
There is a touch of pride in this work. It is not just a job but a work of a craft. Like the old carpentry instead of quick ikea part.
Parts turn out great when worker builds stuff to be proud of instead of money.
Some say it is wasted hours but result is a marvel. And this part looks like it came with the car. Or actually better.
@@mabettaja thanks Friend!
The part looked great! when you say 3d print of the mold what do you mean? after the coat of drywall on the print, add a layer of mold release/mold release film and fiberglass over that then you can vacuum down against the print. Rather than print a positive to mold a negative to fiberglass positive, what if you print a positive and make the part positive over it, just make an allowance in the print for the thickness of the material
Interesting 🤔
Well done part looks great.
Thank you! Cheers!
hi a little tip with the hot stapler when using the wiggle wire to staple push it in to the depth you want then turn it about a 1 to 2 mm then release the staple this will create a stronger join keep up the great work as a panel beater it brings a smile on me dial seeing others enjoy working on cars weather electric or gas guzzlers cheers from down under
That's a great idea!
Looking at all that fiberglass makes me itchy.
For me it is not laying up the fiberglass, but the cutting and sanding of fiberglass that makes me itchy.
@@ElectricSuperCar Yes, I haven't touched in several years
Great work! You always do such a great job! Your dedication is amazing!
Thank you so much!
It's astounding to see all the processes than you use in constructing this vastly-improved MGA. I sweated profusely, and I itched the whole time I was watching this...😆🤣 Wishing YOU all the best...especially during THIS phase of your journey. Aloha!
Thanks Friend!
Looks good to me. Very much enjoying your videos.
Thanks Friend!
Great video! Commenting for the algorithm 😅
Thanks for that!
Have you considered after checking that the part fit from 3d printing to use the software to create a negative of the part to directly print a mold? Seems it would save some working time though more downtime to print the mold as well. I'm not an expert but its something I've been considering for a project I'm planning.
LOL like two minutes after typing this you answered. I think that would be a great idea. Love to see your progress.
👍 thanks!
❤ incredible content Jeremy keep it coming.
@robertsavage7446 thanks Robert!
Another great video!! Thanks 😊
You are so welcome!
Great to see regular postings! Looking forward for much more!
More to come!
You deserve all the success coming your way man. That blow up paint room is brilliant.
Success?
I lost 7 subscribers releasing this video. I still don't think I have figured out how to make TH-cam happy. 🙃
I guess at least I am having fun trying.
@@ElectricSuperCar Don't get hung up on the analytics, with TH-cam it's like rolling the dice. You're not far away from the big time. Just keep doing what you're doing. If I was in the US I'd come work for you for minimum wage to learn from you and help speed your process. You're a machine.
Awesome and outstanding as always.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
Thanks 👍
I've heard that if you use step files instead of stls, it fixes the polygon issue on curves
Interesting 🤔
Olias on Bambu Forums explained it well I think.
"As far as the slicer is concerned. All files that are migrated into the slicer end up being a mesh. The difference is that a STL file starts out as a mesh whereas a STEP file has more precise measurements overall.
It may help to understand the distinction between a STEP and an STL. An STL is a mesh made of triangles(sometimes imprecisely referred to as polygons in some slicers) that are linked together. A STEP file on the other hand is a series of mathematical equations mapped out on a 3D X,Y,Z coordinate system. STEP files provide much more detail and far more accurate dimensions when describing things like lines, curves and arcs. STL files have to try to “approximate” a curve by cutting down the shape into finer and finer mesh."
Ever considered printing out the panel and just wrapping it in fiberglass or carbon fiber instead? I would like to do the 3D printer one day and just curious if there is a down side.
Interesting 🤔
@@ElectricSuperCar yeah I figured it would lesson the process. And seen one guy use a plastic in his 3D printer that is better for heat and stronger uses it just as panels only. Though I feel like I’d want to layer it in fiberglass.
I’m not all the way through the video, but why even make another mold and a separate part, why not just put fiberglass and then carpet over the top of this tunnel piece and be done with it? Heat resistance? Flexing with the body?
Its crazy that old car has a wooden floor. Imagine the damage or injuries you would get if you ran something over like a post, it would tear you a new one. Nice job with the 3d printing.
Beautiful work.
Thank you! Cheers!
This video is amazing
Thanks Friend!
A suggestion for mold making. You can use a lighter-weight fiberglass for your first layer when making the mold, then use some 3M spray adhesive to help tack the fiberglass sheet in place so you don't run into the resin curing issue.
Thanks for the tips!
Very well🎉
Thanks 😊
I would LOVE to make a hardtop for my MR2 spyder using this technique. However, my 3D printer is only 300x300x300 mm so I would have to brake the 3D printed mold into something like 64 parts! LOL!
Go for it!
I've done some fibre glass myself and it's not easy so well done with this. Will you need to build a hoop over the propshaft in case of failure to prevent it ending up in the cabin?. The old steel tunnel would have been much stronger but maybe the Netgear motor is not powerful enough to be an issue.
Good call!
I've seen a few recommendations for better/smoother CAD-to-3d print parts. And while increasing STL resolution DOES help, if you have a slicer that can natively import STEP files, that's even better--it's a more 'lossless' translation, as it's not converting your file into triangles/polygons. Best of luck to you!
Thanks for the info!
You should be able to set a higher resolution/quality mode on the export to STL format in your cad software to eliminate those flat spots on the curves.
Good call!
due to unusual circumstances my brother was forced to watch this vid with me.
I spent half the show telling him your backstory (a la TH-cam) and how you seem to have more toys now, than before you were let go.
😂 This kind of content is a form of torture to him
Forced torture!?! That is my kind of brother! 🙌
Not proficient? I mean, sure, the resolutions at the end (thanks, by the way) would have gotten you there faster, but you can't go on hindsight and the part looks amazing.
Look at where you came from, now you go about it with a 3D scanner, CAD, fiberglass mold, ... looking mighty professional to me.
Thanks Friend!
You can increase the resolution while exporting STLs in fusion 360 which should make the radiuses smoother
Good call!
Ordered me a range 2, i'm one step closer to having the ultimate toolbox .. :) now I have stuff even my mechanics dont have... whats the most one use tool you have ?? I can program the chip ECM for my 91' and older suburbans
Currently I am using 3F scanning and CAD a lot!
Total composite newbie here with wo questions: 1, why are you so careful removing the plug and mold from the part? Do you keep those somewhere, for some reason? Or are you just careful to keep the part nice? 2, you answered by saying you'd print the mold next time and skip a step. Nice work!
Yes, exactly
For joining 3D printed parts, I'm wondering if it would be possible to use Prusa slicer's feature for creating pegs to join parts. It would require making the part thicker around the joints, but would save some manual work of plastic welding or gluing parts together after.
Good call!
Man that was awesome! It wasn't until about the 12 min mark I realized you were creating a negative mold, I agree with your comments about how to do it better, but I def enjoyed watching the process.
Thanks 👍
You can increase the detail of STL files to minimize the faceting effect. My slicer can work with STEP files so I do that instead. STEP files are a true mathematical representation of the geometry instead of STL's linear interpolation that causes faceting. 3MF files also store geometry like STEP files. There are more options but that's what is common. Depending on the minimum step sizes on the the printer itself, you may still end up with minor faceting as the printer controller will eventually have to do a linear interpolation to conform to a Cartesian coordinate system.
Good to know
Something you can use to stiffen your mold plugs is fill the backside with a two part foam. Once it's expanded it can be trimmed flush and since it bolds to the form, it makes everything duper rigid. If you can't get the two part foam components for some reason, "Great Stuff" is a good substitute though it might cost a little more.
Nice!
You should verify your stl conversion parameters, because you can increase the number of faces for each poligon that will make up the 3d part in the 3d printer software. This way you'll avoid those flats on the round faces.
Good call!
Great video giving me plenty of ideas for my own build. Was gonna suggest 3d printing the mould so glad I waited till the end to comment 😂 1 question though, could you not just use the 3d printed part? If it’s for strength you could model wee pockets on the underside to strengthen with a metal plate or strap?
I don't think a 3D printed part will last long in an open air roadster with UV, heat, and water
"What's the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable." ---Motivation
@@Money-Fast-Plan-a 👍
I would use a layer or two of Kevlar just for peace of mind against catastrophic failure that could send some fast-flying shrapnel.
I think the plan is to have a metal hoop to attach to the frame on the inside of the transmission tunnel
Question, what model 3D printer do you have. Looks great what and how you did that. Great talent.
BigRep Home Page: bit.ly/3VqRITuBigRep
BigRep STUDIO G2: bit.ly/4bj19KV
It is on loan to me for a little while
Thought, you had good reason to make print of the part, test the fit and placement of the part. What if you printed a skeleton / course wireframe of that, for that purpose?
Printing the mold with flanges would be a win!
Good thoughts!
Seriously nice work. Continue to enjoy the journey and appreciate you bringing us along .
Thanks, will do!
I like that you added what you would do different at the end of the process in the video, Jeremy. It shows that you are evolving you processes as you progress, and that is always good. With the video, you take us along for the thought process behind those changes, which is very educational. Almost time to apply a layer of tinfoil to the outside of your inflatable paint-booth to mitigate some of the heating issues, or have another structure provide shade and move some air to around for additional cooling.
Thanks for the comment!
You mentioned flanges, Using alignment tabs would make easier to mate two parts. Use some ducted fans with expanding tubes to draw in air from cooler place then exit toward top?
Thanks for the tips!
You dont need to convert model to STL file, modern slicers ie prusa slicer, super slicer and orca slicer can work with step files and fully preserve curves.
I'll have to try it
If you are going to 3d print multi pieces parts more often, I suggest you separate the pieces with a zigzag pattern and not a straight line. I think that would make it easier and more accurate to join later.
Thanks for the suggestion!
The transmission tunnel came out great! Thanks for detailing the process.
Thanks Dean!
With a 3D printed model, why don't you create pins to join the pieces? You only need the inner side for casting and you have connecting notches on the outer side so that the pieces fit into each other? I think that would save you a lot of time and work.
Good call!
I have a portable tire inflator which I kickstarted years ago, and it works, but the display is not well done. I was going to look for one, so thanks for the review. Also, you could put some ice at your ventilation fan of the booth, would temper a bit, but could add moisture too.
Interesting 🤔
You can tell CAD how many flats to divide a circle into in the system settings
Good call!
Man it must’ve been torture tp put on that suit and step into that paint booth lol! Fuking solider lol
🥵
Why not just use the 3d printed part as the transmission tunnel?
I am not sure a plastic tunnel on an open air roadster would work well. Too much UV, temperature, and moisture to last long.
Why don't you keep the whole printed part as the tunnel?
I am not sure a plastic tunnel on an open air roadster would work well. Too much UV, temperature, and moisture to last long.
Plaster instead of Joint Compound ?
@plokmko0 I have tried that too. Plaster is much harder than drywall compound. Has benefits and drawbacks.
⚡ 🏎 👌👍 🏎 ⚡
✌️
Wait a minute... No integrated cupholders???😮
😜
Awesome progress! Both on the car and developing your car building skills.
(And great you realized to late that you should've printed the mold with the flanges as i had suggested previously😂)
Doh!! Should have put in cup holders! LOL!!
Next time!!
As for smoother radii on curves for demolding... You can design those in to the print as well.
In CAD you can give in export the number of sequments you want! You can realize perfect round shapes, no visible sequmentation
I think you can
Yeah. In Fusion you set the Refinement level in the 3D print dialogue to the highest setting and it smooths out the curves.
In Siemens Solide Edge you set the segmentation level in the choosen file export.
Got a question, probabaly a stupid question. Why do you have to make a fiberglass mold? Can't you just lay carbon fiber on the plug and have it cured there?
Yes you could. Mold usually gives you a better finish
Got it
Any reason you don't make some ABS or ASA parts for the final part instead of making plugs for fibreglass? Curious as to why you go for fibreglass...
I don't think a 3D printed part will last long in an open air roadster with UV, heat, and water
@@ElectricSuperCar You have a good point. I'd like to see how well ASA, ABS, PEEK and ULTIM handle the long term UV and heat....
water definitely no problems for most plastics.
Which 3D printer you used?
BigRep Home Page: bit.ly/3VqRITuBigRep
BigRep STUDIO G2: bit.ly/4bj19KV
Very nice work making that tunnel
Thanks 👍
Wonder if saving/ exporting it as a "step" file, your printer would make it "rounder". I know that works on small stuff I print.
Worked out awesome in the end wither way!
I'll have to try
I love that 3D printer!
I have to use it while it lasts!
.
this guy is the real deal
Thanks!
Would a 3D printed tunnel not have been strong enough to permanently install in the car?
I am not sure a plastic tunnel on an open air roadster would work well. Too much UV, temperature, and moisture to last long.
I was thinking this too, what about fiberglass right over the plastic. Would be a little heavier than just fiberglass but probably stronger.
Algo
@@password9384 ✌️
👋👍
✌️