Model A Ford - Engine Removal Walkthrough
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2023
- This video walks you through the complete sequence of steps to remove the Model A engine from the car. Click "Show More" for an index that will let you jump straight to any point in the procedure.
I do make some mistakes in the video. I'm not an expert at engine removal, I haven't done it many times. However, there are at present no complete walkthroughs available from any more professional sources, so y'all will have to live with this one for now. I tried to mark or comment on every mistake that I detected.
You'll need a shop crane, a load leveler, and some eye bolts that screw into the spark plug holes. You may also need a frame spreader.
05:30 Drain coolant
08:45 Drain transmission
10:07 Remove floor mat/carpet
11:00 Remove shifter plate & battery cover
11:30 Remove pedal plate, accelerator pedal button
12:13 Remove floor boards
13:26 Disconnect ground strap
13:42 Disconnect brake rod and, on a 28/29, the brake light linkage, from the brake pedal.
14:10 Disconnect emergency brake rod from e-brake lever
14:53 Remove throttle control assembly
16:17 Remove shift tower
16:57 Remove half of 6 bolts from U-joint ball housing
17:30 Remove bumper
18:20 Disconnect headlight wiring and horn wires
19:11 Remove headlight bar
21:15 Remove radiator support rods
21:40 Remove hood
22:47 Disconnect all wiring at cutout; pull radiator wiring out and lay aside
23:59 Remove water outlet head nuts
24:05 Remove the clamp holding the wire conduit to the top of the water inlet port and the water inlet itself
24:23 Remove radiator-to-frame bolt assembly
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Next steps 30/31 ONLY!!:
27:25 Remove radiator splash apron
28:13 Remove radiator cap and shell
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29:10 Remove the entire radiator, hoses, and inlet/outlet pipes as a single assembly
29:44 Remove vacuum and fuel lines between the carb and the firewall
Disconnect and remove choke, carburetor control, throttle control, and spark advance rods
30:46 Remove starter push rod, wire to terminal box, and battery cable at the starter
31:10 28/29 ONLY: Remove conduit
31:55 Remove spark plugs and plug connectors
32:08 Remove head nut 8 and pull off the armored cable & clamp.
32:29 Remove the distributor.
33:16 Use a zip-tie to secure the tailpipe to something
Unclamp the manifold from the exhaust pipe.
34:00 Remove starter and generator
35:00 Remove bolts holding engine pans to oil pan
36:30 Drain oil
36:35 Remove castle nut under front motor mount
36:44 Remove bolts holding engine pans to frame
38:00 Disconnect the radius rod
39:12 Remove other 3 screws from U-joint ball housing
39:47 Raise a floor jack under transmission drain plug
40:30 Remove rear motor mount bolts
42:52 Attach eye bolts at #1 and #4 plugs
Connect leveler to shop crane and eye bolts
Take up slack so the weight of the engine is entirely on the shop crane
45:12 Unbolt front motor mount from timing cover
Lower and remove floor jack under transmission drain plug
Optional: Insert frame spreader
Using the leveler, lift front of engine enough to remove front motor mount
Put a blanket or rag over the front crossmember
46:40 Roll the shop crane backward to bring the drivetrain up and forward, with the front of the engine angled significantly up so that the transmission and clutch/brake pedals clear the bottom of the firewall. The inner U-joint housing may fall out, that's OK. This is a good time to rubber-band a rag around the exposed U-joint so it doesn't drip oil.
48:16 Watch carefully to ensure the clutch pedal clears the steering column. You may need to gently swing the engine counterclockwise as it comes up to get around it.
51:49 Bring the engine entirely clear of the car and then return to a level position
52:26 Attach to engine stand, or set on a sturdy table, and begin inspection/repairs - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Great video, you explain the procedures very well. Armed with information from your great video i am going to do this job with the help of a friend. Much more confident now. Thank you very much!!
I wish I'd gotten farther on the rebuild by now! This engine is still sitting on a stand in the workshop. Too many projects. Hopefully I'll get to it before the end of the year.
Great video…I really did not understand all of the operations required to get an engine out….your video made it simple to understand.
Thanks Cliff. Let me know how the frame spreader works out for you.
When I remove engine with Trans attached first thing is remove the brake and clutch pedals by removing a single cotter pin. just a suggestion. Kenny
There are lots of ways to remove the engine and that is one of them. My goal in the video was to establish that you can, if necessary, remove the engine and transmission virtually intact by yourself. Leaving the pedals attached did not impede the operation.
Helpful video, thanks!
Very informative. Thank you.
Hi Alexis. Great video. Thank you. Is it possible to separate the engine from the transmission and only pull the engine out, leaving the transmission in place? I just need to do an engine swap. Thank you.
Yes, removing only the engine is quite common and somewhat easier. I chose to show the harder version. To remove the engine, you'll need to support the transmission with something - a jack, or blocks - and then disconnect the bell housing from the flywheel housing. As you pull the engine forward and up, the splined main drive gear should slide out of the flywheel and release the engine from the transmission. Good luck!
Good video but you should have just saved yourself some time and aggrivation by removing the carb, manifolds, starter and water pump. This stuff only gets in the way. Also, separate the bell housing from the flywheel housing and pull the engine. If the transmission has to come out do that afterwards. Putting the new/rebuilt engine back in is also easier with the transmission and bell housing in the car. Just my opinion.
Why would it save me time to remove all that stuff? Then I gotta spend time unbolting it, and I might run into other problems. Most of the bolts are rusty and I'd rather fight them on the engine stand than in the car. And I don't have a transmission jack, so if I leave the transmission in place, I have to support it while it's in there and then wrangle it out of the car by myself.
Other than the starter, none of those things caused me any aggravation by leaving them on.
Have you done this before the video??
Looks like your removing the engine and trans. Much simpler to pull just the motor.