Since my club car has resistor coils and a 36volt motor, do the resistor coils make it possible to install a 48 volt lithium battery with out it damaging the 36 volt motor? I'm not looking for speed. But long term functionality, and don't care to gamble with maybe having to replace the motor later.
if you're not willing to take the rick i would suggest you use a 36v lithium battery it will bit you more power and last longer than stock battery's but keep the reliability .
What is the top speed on flat land? You only stated the new top speed going uphill. Im looking to do this exact conversion on my 1997 DS. I appreciate the help.
@@tdchotrods9889 awesome!!! That gives me hope. My 1997 DS is the same setup as yours, series resistor 36v. I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 48v lithium and do the 48v conversion.
my cart ran when I brought it in the garage and I tried to do exactly what you did but I replaced every wire from the motor to the V glide one at a time and now I have a cart that wont move. the reverse buzzer comes on when put in reverse but no movement. the green wire from the F/R switch, did you hook that to the positive on the cart? also the orange wire from the harness that comes from the front, positive?
This is awesome. I did the conversion on my 48v 2004 Club car I got for free, but it has a hard time going up hill. Like 2 miles an hour, hahaha. Right now I am not sure what the issue is but know its not the battery. One thing I noticed was the headlights came on for a sec and then quit. I am thinking I need a converter for 48v to 12v but who knows. great vid.
@@staff72 I would make sure that your vehicle glide is not burned up and not allowing all the power to go through it. And yes, you will need a converter box to go from 48 V to 12 to run your headlights
There's more to a conversion than I thought. I have 1994 DS Club Car. 36 volt. I want to convert it to a 36 volt 100ah lithium battery. My question, should I be concerned with the controller handling the lithium battery? I think I am going to have to find a wiring diagram.
@@smitty2721 if it is already a 36v controller and you stick with a 36v battery. I do not believe that lithium is going to hurt the controller. Over voltage is what could hurt it.
@@tdchotrods9889 I have not had my cart but for only a month now and I don't know a lot about its internals. But I realize now that my cart has resistor coils. I don't know why but I was thinking it was electronic. Thank you for the reply.
10kW of power and 5kWh of storage. That is quite a lot of capability for a golf cart. A single battery is fine but you can also boost the power by putting two or more 48V batteries in parallel. Still, I think you made a good choice with the battery. There are no golf-cart-specific lithium batteries... its just marketing noise, but you already figured out that the only thing that really matters with respect to the golf cart is the BMS's surge capability. 2 AWG is a good choice for 48V @ 100A nominal and 200A surge. the losses will be very low. Of course, the resistor coil wastes an enormous amount of power (unfortunately), but there isn't a whole lot you can do about that without replacing a lot more motor-related parts. Note that if you have a voltage-based battery state-of-charge indicator, that won't work with LiFePO4. The discharge curve is very flat so you basically have to count amp-hours dispensed. Also, you said LIPO in your description but that's actually LiFePO4 (LFP). And in fact LiFePO4 is exactly what you want here. That battery will last forever.... 3000 cycles @ 80% depth-of-discharge will take it down to 80% of original capacity. You won't notice any degradation for years. Plus, LFP chemistry batteries basically don't fail... the capacity just goes down slowly over many years. The rest of the golf cart is gonna fall apart before the battery does. (The battery's BMS will fail before its cells do).
This is one if not the best comment I see in any youtube chanel. I think a lot of person will not understand how much of this comment will help help everyone in the future. Thx.
Wouldn’t this overload the resister? They are designed for 36v this has me interested to see because I really want to upgrade but don’t want to go buy the navitas conversion kit. Trying to go a cheaper route to go faster
Technically yes but i have l been using it every day many times a day since i did the swap and it's been great. the coils don't seam to seem much hotter than on 36v i did upgrade the solenoid to a 400amp and the carts been great.
Can you post the link to the solenoid you upgraded to? Im also converting up to 48v on mine. Is a new solenoid needed, or does that just make it run better with the lithium battery?@tdchotrods9889
Eather me my wife or my son drive it every single day and we love it. we love the power the speed and low long the battery lasts. we drive it all around town not just in are yard. everything is still stock except the Relay i put a heavy duty 400amp relay in it.
Awesome! I have watched your lithium conversion video and love it. I am about to do the same thing on my 36v club car ds 89 model. Could you share with me what wires are connected to the negative and positive post? Please
@@tdchotrods9889 Its a bit tough given the small roof area and the higher battery voltage. I recommend going with a "boost" charge controller in this situation. So: * "PowMR Boost Solar Charge Controller" ($35). * Either 2 x 75W solar panels OR 1 x 200W solar panel. Whichever fits the roof best. 2 x 75W in series ($81ea x 2 = $162). Newpoa mono 75W panel (x2). OR 1 x 200W ... Newpoa 9BB 200W 24V panel ($221). (NOTE: A single 200W panel has to have a VOC and Voperating voltage above 24V to work). -- I think the best bang for the buck will be if you use 2 x 75W panels, but check the dimensions to make sure that you can fit that on the roof. The total cost would be around $200 ($81 ea x 2 for the panels, and $35 for the PowMr boost controller). Plus misc 12 AWG wiring. The PowMR has a fairly tight voltage range to support your battery... the input voltage must be 25V to 48V. 2 x 75W panels fits the bill just about perfectly. Quite a few solar panel combinations won't work here. You have to make sure that the total solar voltage is 25V to 48V (both the open-circuit total voltage, and the operating total voltage must be in that range). There are other options... such as going with 4 x 50W panels to develop a SolarVoltage > BatteryVoltage+5V, and using a standard Buck charge controller like a Victron 100/20. But I think they wind up being more expensive and won't fit the roof well. -Matt
@@smitty2721 I mostly chose them because it had a good size amp hour, and specifically says for golf cart which I now know doesn’t mean too much. And it has a built-in BMS.
Can you tell me how you wired the down converter? having issues with that part of the install. ive got a 48v club car ds with headlights and taillights like yours. so wondering how you wired those based on new solenoid etc.
Did you mount the charger onboard? Im looking at this setup for a DS. Just wondering if the charger works properly as an onboard. The manufacturer has little info on if it is weatherproof and if it is designed to be permanently connected to the battery, even during use.
@tdchotrods9889 that's great. Thanks for responding. I wasn't clear from the manufacturer if that charger is weather proof. Or if it would function properly while.being permanently connected. Thanks for the info.
Nice to see you two working on a project together, nice to see a kid eating a golf cart too, likely healthy than what most people are feeding their kids these days! I've been on the hunt for a cart to do this with, you can jump up from a 36V to a 48V without any issues?
Its a good video and i'm all for doing projects with our kids i do it all the time but when you are making an instructional video you shouldn't let your kid keep interrupting it that makes the vid less likely to be taken serious and makes people loose their interest and focus on what you're doing. Couldn't finish watching it because of that.
Replace those resistor coils with a PWM motor control... Those resistors just waste precious electrical power, and complicate the electrical system. The high power wires are minimized with a PWM controller, and no contractors/switches needed for the high power wires, other then the safety switch/cutoff contactor. The motor controller just takes a signal from the accelerator petal, using simple wiring. You will get much better motor control, and better battery utilization. Edit: you mentioned towards the end about adding a motor controller 👍👍
Thank you. I just tried to find it and looks like I bought the last one the others are on back order so it won’t pop the link up. But I bought it on Amazon.
The BMS and cells used are going to dictate whether or not this thing works well. The 200A (continuous?) BMS is a good sign but you should really crack that case open and see whats inside. Most cells have a QR code you can scan with a code with an app online to tell you what they are. Some 100Ah cells can support 2C continuous....not many can do 3C continuous and very few can do 5C. The hot shit on the market right now is the 74Ah LEV60F cells since they can support 400A easily and possibly 600A if you match up a good set of low IR cells.
Nice way to install the 48v battery. I bought a battery like this but I had to replace for a 4 12v pack because it didn't fit. I wish I had watched this video earlier
Awesome video, when people realize EV’s are the same thing it’s gonna be game on! Love that you have your kid in working with you, kids need more dads in their lives, crazy the comments from random people.
Hey, great video man! Thanks! My club car is a little newer so I don't have the springs and all, but I was wondering how you handled reducing 48v down to 12v for lights and such? I'm getting ready to instal mine this weekend.
I was really interested in watching the video since I am considering such a change to my golf cart but I couldn't continue because of the interruptions of your child.
@@robertmecalis7030 I just ran the reverse wire straight to the battery. Just like the forward power wire the downfall that is, it will go just as fast and reverse as it will forward.😬😬
Somebody doesn't understand how electricity and wire size works, The higher the voltage the smaller the cabling you need, The only reason you would need to upgrade the wire to a larger gauge, would be if you were dropping the voltage. Lower voltage is generate more heat for the same workload, higher voltage is run cooler.
Since he didn't change the motor, it is still designed for 36 volts. Give it 48 volts (and that lithium "48" is actually 52 volts or more) and it will draw more current than it ever did from the 36 volt lead acid battery bank. Give or take 1.33 times the current. So yes, the existing wires and speed regulating resistors are going to get hotter, and it's not a bad idea to put in some heavier wires.
@@yourgoldenretriever Of course - but the watts used by the motor will increase as the square of the current (roughly - motors aren't resistors). So the current drawn by the motor will increase when the battery voltage is increased. IF he had changed to a 48 volt motor of the same wattage as his 36 volt motor the current would indeed be lower. But he didn't change the motor, so the current goes up.
Nice upgrade! But add a fuse to that battery. Unless that battery is internally current limited, if something fails/wire chafes through, you could have a very bad day. Wires can become so hot, they glow orange, and incinerate stuff near by. Fiberglass when it gets burning is notoriously flammable. There are relatively low cost terminal fuses ment to put on batteries. These are very simple to install. Optionally, a type T fuse mounted close to the battery, where a damaged wire can't harm anything, and the wire is double insulated (eg wire loom sheathing added). Some industries recommend the fuse be within 7" of the terminal, but common sense engineering principles apply here.
I personally love it with your son, piss on the people who dont like it. Those jack asses dont have to watch it. I have an 82 Yamaha g1 and you answered nearly the questions i had. What's an inexpensive controller update for us? I dont fancy ahit and too much speed.
I’m sure you love your son. Make videos expressing that. Then, when you make videos of stuff most people are interested in, make those videos, perhaps without your son.
Since my club car has resistor coils and a 36volt motor, do the resistor coils make it possible to install a 48 volt lithium battery with out it damaging the 36 volt motor? I'm not looking for speed. But long term functionality, and don't care to gamble with maybe having to replace the motor later.
if you're not willing to take the rick i would suggest you use a 36v lithium battery it will bit you more power and last longer than stock battery's but keep the reliability .
Great video, I’ve wanted to upgrade my 91 club car to a lithium battery for a while now, but had many concerns. You covered all my questions. Thanks!
awesome I'm glad I could help
Hey great video! How did you ground the v-glide switch? I’m doing a lithium swap as well and haven’t gotten it to work yet Thanks
What is the top speed on flat land? You only stated the new top speed going uphill. Im looking to do this exact conversion on my 1997 DS. I appreciate the help.
@@eddierivera3928 26 on flat ground with 2 adults a 1 child
@@tdchotrods9889 awesome!!! That gives me hope. My 1997 DS is the same setup as yours, series resistor 36v. I'm about to pull the trigger and buy a 48v lithium and do the 48v conversion.
@ awesome
How much was the battery and charger? Did i miss the part where you told us the price ? Thank you
1100
Sorry that you have to deal with the negative comments about your kid. He is just being a kid! Love your vids keep it up!🎉
Kids need parenting and direction. Its not that hard.
@@Getitstraightyo ITS A KID, LET HIM BE
thank you
@@Getitstraightyo OH he definitely has parenting and direction. that's why he is an amazing kid
I was really interested but couldn't watch this. Too distracting
my cart ran when I brought it in the garage and I tried to do exactly what you did but I replaced every wire from the motor to the V glide one at a time and now I have a cart that wont move. the reverse buzzer comes on when put in reverse but no movement. the green wire from the F/R switch, did you hook that to the positive on the cart? also the orange wire from the harness that comes from the front, positive?
That happed to me and on mine it was a wire in the V glide came undone so it wouldn't trigger the solenoid to turn on.
This is awesome. I did the conversion on my 48v 2004 Club car I got for free, but it has a hard time going up hill. Like 2 miles an hour, hahaha. Right now I am not sure what the issue is but know its not the battery. One thing I noticed was the headlights came on for a sec and then quit. I am thinking I need a converter for 48v to 12v but who knows. great vid.
@@staff72 I would make sure that your vehicle glide is not burned up and not allowing all the power to go through it.
And yes, you will need a converter box to go from 48 V to 12 to run your headlights
This was a 36 volt and you upgraded to a 48 volt lithium. No issues with the motor?
@@jdubya54that’s correct the motor has been great so far.
There's more to a conversion than I thought. I have 1994 DS Club Car. 36 volt. I want to convert it to a 36 volt 100ah lithium battery. My question, should I be concerned with the controller handling the lithium battery? I think I am going to have to find a wiring diagram.
@@smitty2721 if it is already a 36v controller and you stick with a 36v battery. I do not believe that lithium is going to hurt the controller. Over voltage is what could hurt it.
@@tdchotrods9889 I have not had my cart but for only a month now and I don't know a lot about its internals. But I realize now that my cart has resistor coils. I don't know why but I was thinking it was electronic. Thank you for the reply.
Seen same battery. Let me lnow how it holds up. I was going use. For audio. System
so far its doing great i use the cart every day
How has the battery held up? I am looking at ordering the kit on amazon to replace my lead acid trojans
@@JimS-x2d so far I love it. I use it every day and it’s been great
Can you give the link for the solenoid?
Would you please give regular updates on the golf cart build and the battery performance?
10kW of power and 5kWh of storage. That is quite a lot of capability for a golf cart. A single battery is fine but you can also boost the power by putting two or more 48V batteries in parallel. Still, I think you made a good choice with the battery. There are no golf-cart-specific lithium batteries... its just marketing noise, but you already figured out that the only thing that really matters with respect to the golf cart is the BMS's surge capability.
2 AWG is a good choice for 48V @ 100A nominal and 200A surge. the losses will be very low. Of course, the resistor coil wastes an enormous amount of power (unfortunately), but there isn't a whole lot you can do about that without replacing a lot more motor-related parts.
Note that if you have a voltage-based battery state-of-charge indicator, that won't work with LiFePO4. The discharge curve is very flat so you basically have to count amp-hours dispensed.
Also, you said LIPO in your description but that's actually LiFePO4 (LFP). And in fact LiFePO4 is exactly what you want here. That battery will last forever.... 3000 cycles @ 80% depth-of-discharge will take it down to 80% of original capacity. You won't notice any degradation for years. Plus, LFP chemistry batteries basically don't fail... the capacity just goes down slowly over many years. The rest of the golf cart is gonna fall apart before the battery does. (The battery's BMS will fail before its cells do).
thanks for the comment that was some very awesome info! I appreciate it
This is one if not the best comment I see in any youtube chanel. I think a lot of person will not understand how much of this comment will help help everyone in the future. Thx.
Wouldn’t this overload the resister?
They are designed for 36v this has me interested to see because I really want to upgrade but don’t want to go buy the navitas conversion kit. Trying to go a cheaper route to go faster
Technically yes but i have l been using it every day many times a day since i did the swap and it's been great. the coils don't seam to seem much hotter than on 36v i did upgrade the solenoid to a 400amp and the carts been great.
Can you post the link to the solenoid you upgraded to? Im also converting up to 48v on mine. Is a new solenoid needed, or does that just make it run better with the lithium battery?@tdchotrods9889
Did you replace the motor also? Or you use the 36 with the 48 battery.
@@prestigepoolsofsouthflorid607 no it still had the stock 36v battery in it
Do you have an update? I just started tonight on tear down for the conversion from 36v lead to 48v lithium.
Eather me my wife or my son drive it every single day and we love it. we love the power the speed and low long the battery lasts. we drive it all around town not just in are yard.
everything is still stock except the Relay i put a heavy duty 400amp relay in it.
Awesome! I have watched your lithium conversion video and love it. I am about to do the same thing on my 36v club car ds 89 model.
Could you share with me what wires are connected to the negative and positive post? Please
any updates on the battery do you still like it ?
oh yes i love the battery i use it everyday and its been great
Any plan to put a solar panel on the roof to keep it charged up?
Yep I sure do.
@@tdchotrods9889 Its a bit tough given the small roof area and the higher battery voltage. I recommend going with a "boost" charge controller in this situation. So:
* "PowMR Boost Solar Charge Controller" ($35).
* Either 2 x 75W solar panels OR 1 x 200W solar panel. Whichever fits the roof best.
2 x 75W in series ($81ea x 2 = $162). Newpoa mono 75W panel (x2).
OR 1 x 200W ... Newpoa 9BB 200W 24V panel ($221). (NOTE: A single 200W panel has to have a VOC and Voperating voltage above 24V to work).
--
I think the best bang for the buck will be if you use 2 x 75W panels, but check the dimensions to make sure that you can fit that on the roof. The total cost would be around $200 ($81 ea x 2 for the panels, and $35 for the PowMr boost controller). Plus misc 12 AWG wiring.
The PowMR has a fairly tight voltage range to support your battery... the input voltage must be 25V to 48V. 2 x 75W panels fits the bill just about perfectly.
Quite a few solar panel combinations won't work here. You have to make sure that the total solar voltage is 25V to 48V (both the open-circuit total voltage, and the operating total voltage must be in that range).
There are other options... such as going with 4 x 50W panels to develop a SolarVoltage > BatteryVoltage+5V, and using a standard Buck charge controller like a Victron 100/20. But I think they wind up being more expensive and won't fit the roof well.
-Matt
@@junkerzn7312 awesome info thank you!
How has the cart held up with the 48v battery on the 36v system? Wanting to do something similar my '98 Club Car
The cart has held up great. we dive it every day and love the battery upgrade
I'm planning to do the same to mine as well can do you a video of a review for the time frame you've had yours installed
How is the battery working? Thinking about ordering that battery, what do you think?
Personally i love it it's been an awesome upgrade
Can you tell me why you used the XRH brand battery? There are some cheaper or less expensive lithium batteries on Amazon that I'm looking at.
@@smitty2721 I mostly chose them because it had a good size amp hour, and specifically says for golf cart which I now know doesn’t mean too much. And it has a built-in BMS.
The original 36v motor? It handled the 48v no problem?
Yep i drive it every day and its still going strong
I have a 84 club cart ds that looks like yours and same battery but i can't seem to get the battery in like yours. how did you get it in there?
i moved the resistor springs to the driver side under the seat so there was space for the battery
I can't get the battery to fit through the opening from the top , I moved the resistors to the side.@@tdchotrods9889
@@tdchotrods9889 i moved the springs but my battery seems to big for the seat opening.
@@josephdeburgos6251 is it the same battery I have? And if so I have to put my battery in at an angle than turn it straight when you get it in there.
Will two batteries in parallel give you 400 amps surge? That would be nice
did anything melt yet or is it still running?
@@dbtorreliob it’s still running great. Nothing melted
Can you tell me how you wired the down converter? having issues with that part of the install. ive got a 48v club car ds with headlights and taillights like yours. so wondering how you wired those based on new solenoid etc.
so i have 2 solenoids one for the motor and one the i used to power the drop down convertor.
Did you mount the charger onboard? Im looking at this setup for a DS. Just wondering if the charger works properly as an onboard. The manufacturer has little info on if it is weatherproof and if it is designed to be permanently connected to the battery, even during use.
yep i did mount it on board and works great. make for a clean set up and easy for my wife and sone to charge
@tdchotrods9889 that's great. Thanks for responding. I wasn't clear from the manufacturer if that charger is weather proof. Or if it would function properly while.being permanently connected. Thanks for the info.
@@customerservice2478 no problem
As a dad that lets his kids help fix stuff, I love to see you let your kid be part of the project.
@@GrillingDad3 thank you
Nice to see you two working on a project together, nice to see a kid eating a golf cart too, likely healthy than what most people are feeding their kids these days! I've been on the hunt for a cart to do this with, you can jump up from a 36V to a 48V without any issues?
Thank you
I was able to on mine it is a resistor style cart.
and some of the controller style cart are 36 -48 volts it should say on the controller
Its a good video and i'm all for doing projects with our kids i do it all the time but when you are making an instructional video you shouldn't let your kid keep interrupting it that makes the vid less likely to be taken serious and makes people loose their interest and focus on what you're doing. Couldn't finish watching it because of that.
Good point!!!! Me too!!
Nice job! Thank you
@@cervezzaman thank you
Replace those resistor coils with a PWM motor control...
Those resistors just waste precious electrical power, and complicate the electrical system.
The high power wires are minimized with a PWM controller, and no contractors/switches needed for the high power wires, other then the safety switch/cutoff contactor.
The motor controller just takes a signal from the accelerator petal, using simple wiring.
You will get much better motor control, and better battery utilization.
Edit: you mentioned towards the end about adding a motor controller 👍👍
Yup that will be a project for a later date. Thank you.
This looks great. Can you share a link to the battery and charger setup that you used?
Thank you. I just tried to find it and looks like I bought the last one the others are on back order so it won’t pop the link up. But I bought it on Amazon.
The BMS and cells used are going to dictate whether or not this thing works well. The 200A (continuous?) BMS is a good sign but you should really crack that case open and see whats inside. Most cells have a QR code you can scan with a code with an app online to tell you what they are. Some 100Ah cells can support 2C continuous....not many can do 3C continuous and very few can do 5C.
The hot shit on the market right now is the 74Ah LEV60F cells since they can support 400A easily and possibly 600A if you match up a good set of low IR cells.
Nice way to install the 48v battery. I bought a battery like this but I had to replace for a 4 12v pack because it didn't fit. I wish I had watched this video earlier
thank you
Awesome video, when people realize EV’s are the same thing it’s gonna be game on! Love that you have your kid in working with you, kids need more dads in their lives, crazy the comments from random people.
Thank you
EVs are not the same
@@shannondosher1270lol how so?
Hey, great video man! Thanks! My club car is a little newer so I don't have the springs and all, but I was wondering how you handled reducing 48v down to 12v for lights and such? I'm getting ready to instal mine this weekend.
Just need an 48v to 12 reducer, I picked one from Ebay for $16 dollars.
@@97HardBodyMiniTrucker Thanks, that worked for me!
amazon sells a reducer just for doing that. i believe you can just search golf car 12v power converter
I was really interested in watching the video since I am considering such a change to my golf cart but I couldn't continue because of the interruptions of your child.
What charger do you use?
@@joemicklow2197 I have the charger that came with the battery
You put the battery brand backwards in the description.
oops yep I did I will fix that thank you
link to solenoid?
Link to solenoid plz
Link to batt????
I love this and may use one in an old homade electric four wheeler
Heck yea
How did you hook up the reverse?
@@robertmecalis7030 I just ran the reverse wire straight to the battery. Just like the forward power wire the downfall that is, it will go just as fast and reverse as it will forward.😬😬
@@tdchotrods9889 thanks, I took the chance and that’s what I did also. It is quick in back up 😂😂.
I also mounted my battery, the same way you did lengthwise welded up a rack and bolted it in. Worked very well. Thanks for the tip.
@@robertmecalis7030 heck yea that’s awesome 😁
@@robertmecalis7030 lol heck yes. It’s makes for a good tim
My golf cart is for my business... I need an extra replacement battery so I can work longer hours
@@TheYoungMoor awesome awesome
@tdchotrods9889 do you have a solution? The quickest way to go from an depleted battery to a full one? Even if that means replacing with a spare
Need to get a solar panel up on the roof and charge all day long during the day.
yep, that's the plan
You are going to damage the controller as it is 36-volts. Saving a hundred dollars now is going to cost a lot of money in the future.
What controller?
Nice upgrade. I would love to see an update sometime down the road. I don't like the idea of kids around when working with voltages over 50v.
will do
Somebody doesn't understand how electricity and wire size works, The higher the voltage the smaller the cabling you need, The only reason you would need to upgrade the wire to a larger gauge, would be if you were dropping the voltage.
Lower voltage is generate more heat for the same workload, higher voltage is run cooler.
Thank you
Since he didn't change the motor, it is still designed for 36 volts. Give it 48 volts (and that lithium "48" is actually 52 volts or more) and it will draw more current than it ever did from the 36 volt lead acid battery bank. Give or take 1.33 times the current. So yes, the existing wires and speed regulating resistors are going to get hotter, and it's not a bad idea to put in some heavier wires.
@@jimmurphy5355 for the same wattage as voltage goes up current goes down It's a ratio.
@@yourgoldenretriever Of course - but the watts used by the motor will increase as the square of the current (roughly - motors aren't resistors). So the current drawn by the motor will increase when the battery voltage is increased. IF he had changed to a 48 volt motor of the same wattage as his 36 volt motor the current would indeed be lower. But he didn't change the motor, so the current goes up.
Nice upgrade!
But add a fuse to that battery.
Unless that battery is internally current limited, if something fails/wire chafes through, you could have a very bad day.
Wires can become so hot, they glow orange, and incinerate stuff near by. Fiberglass when it gets burning is notoriously flammable.
There are relatively low cost terminal fuses ment to put on batteries. These are very simple to install.
Optionally, a type T fuse mounted close to the battery, where a damaged wire can't harm anything, and the wire is double insulated (eg wire loom sheathing added). Some industries recommend the fuse be within 7" of the terminal, but common sense engineering principles apply here.
I agree with the kid comments
Cheap ? How much ?
1200 with charger
1200 might be cheap to you ,but not to me.Thank you for the reply
@@randolphsnyder1505 i was saying its cheap for a lithium battery of its size.
Give that lil dog some water he looks thirsty with his tongue hanging out
I personally love it with your son, piss on the people who dont like it. Those jack asses dont have to watch it. I have an 82 Yamaha g1 and you answered nearly the questions i had. What's an inexpensive controller update for us? I dont fancy ahit and too much speed.
I want to see what happens here but that kid needs to learn how to behave.
It says 100 Amp on side ,you said 200 lol
yes 100 amp continues and 200 peak
Good video trev
I’m sure you love your son. Make videos expressing that. Then, when you make videos of stuff most people are interested in, make those videos, perhaps without your son.
That kids needs an outlet for his energy….he is exhibiting behaviors of over vaccinations
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Kid is very poorly behaved. Distracts from the video. Parent him brother, boundaries are a good thing.
🤣🤣🤣 he is the opposite of poorly behaved. he is just Being a kid that's trying to act funny Infront of a camera.
@@tdchotrods9889 You'll remember this when his teachers are saying the same thing.
Why you think it's ok to give someone parenting advice on a video you chose to watch. Don't think he asked for your opinion. @@Getitstraightyo
@@tdchotrods9889great video keep doing your thing, kids are only kids for a bit! Enjoy them thanks for the video
@@dreamintree41 He is the one who posted a public video. Being a good parent isnt that hard.
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Leave the kid with mommy…
🤣🤣🤣
If you want people to take you seriously, film without the kid.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 thats not going to happen
Love to see a real father taking time with their kid
@@nwokenkefner9613 thanks
Shhh the adults are talking…