Hi. Thanks for the video. I have been researching mixes for a Hibachi grill and have seen plenty of videos that use sodium silicate in the mix as a primary binder for Perlite, cement and playpit sand mixes. The Sodium Silicate or glass water forms a very hard crystalline structure and cures the mix quickly. It also hardens with heat. The sodium silicate mix uses caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) mixed with silica based cat litter. 200g sodium hydroxide 300g silica based cat litter and 500ml water. For the main mix I have seen 4 parts Perlite, one part white cement, one part playpit sand, 0.5 parts water and 0.5 parts sodium silicate. I've also seen others that use casting plaster instead of cement and some that don't use cement at all because the sodium silicate does the job on its own! Anyone tried this?
Very good job for a Beginner. Appreciate your job and honesty, and a big smile . I built two 3 BR houses , in my life . I do have a little bit more than your experience, would like to share with you, young man. Like Mr Arthoz said: " cement / concrete curing " Soak it twice a day with damp gunny bags ( jute bags ) atleast for 7 days. ( 3 weeks ) is best. 2. You can mix 1/4th of that mixture with 20-30mm pebbles AND use of 10-20mm dia steel mesh or rectangular frames for very good internal strength . 3. Instead of drilling holes after the construction , you could have planned , roughly 2inches for air vents , ( shape doesnt matter ) on all four sides at the bottom of the side panel . Now, you have lot of alternatives to stick in there before pouring the mixture . All the best. ( use of used pallets wood will do your job as holding the mixture )
For concrete...leave it in warm place and covered with damp cloth to cure. Max strength about 3-4 weeks. Damp is good as concrete need water to cure, dry means bad concrete.
Yes, couldn't agree with you more! Concrete needs water, drying concrete in the first 3 weeks will make it brittle and crumble, because it needs 28 days of staying damp for the chemical reaction and crystalization to take place. Keeping it covered in plastic or damp cloth is highly recommended. Even a slight breeze can cause problems with the curing
Food Related, thanks a bunch for your videos. I'm in south Florida, US. It is very hard to get Fire brick. But with your videos showing how to use the perlite has really been helpful. I really appreciate your videos.
Try next time to glue a bit of aerofoam or any insulation foam at the end of the mdf boards for internal peaces, makes life very easy when de molding. Great video.
I did mine using some fire bricks from Home Depot. Laid them up the way I want it, added concrete to bond/seal them then built a plywood frame around it. Works fine.
Your lucky to have somewhere like Home Depot to buy cheap building resources. Because NZ is so small building materials like firebricks can quite expensive. Sounds good
Hi, made one of these and kept wooden frame on. First used quite cheap charcoal, but did not keep heat that well. I then used decent barquettes and possibly produced too much heat because it transferred to the wooden outer and caught fire. Am now going to try to use a metal 'tinder' box inside to house the charcoal. I used the same ratio of mix.
Real time saving tip: use regular wood for your forms instead of mdf or fiberboard etc etc. Then just take it out back, or take it on an outdoor excursion and have a mini camp fire or bbq till the woods gone...using board instead of composite means no fumes or nasty bits to breathe. Forms are gone and it finishes up any unfinished curing. Cheers🍻
Thank you for your content 👍. I am a professional TH-cam watcher and extremely talented Google researcher (while on the toilet 😉). So in other words I don't know but I really do believe that if you added or incorporated some coarse sand into your mix it would ultimately be stronger. 🤷♂️👍👍👍😀
Hi great work maybe you could remove the outside and burn out the middle, I'm just about to start work on your oven design do you think basic cement will be ok or use the more expensive fire cement ? Anyway great work this will be on my next build
My advice for an oven now would be to use refractory cement as Portland cement, although substantially cheaper contracts too much with the heating and cooling of the oven and can cause cracking.
If you do this again cut the corner on the inside at 45%, so the ends will lock agains the out side of the sides of the inside mold. Then there will be no overlap, wax or oil the mold before adding the mix.
I like it! Gonna try building a grill this way to replace one that I made from steel a few years ago. Do you think fire clay will hold up to being an outdoor grill? Ive had decent luck with fire clay in my foundry, but it doesnt get wet. Ever. I worry about water then fire on the grill as I want it to be stationary so it will see lots of rain. I'm thinking grill paint for the exterior, and maybe pottery glaze for the interior? On the construction end, im a fan of ramming the mix during the pour, and removing the mold while the mix is still green. At this stage you can use a wet sponge to smooth everything. I also like periodic wetting during the cure to slow things. (Don't know if it is good or bad) Anyhow, the endgame will produce a grill that better uses heat because it isn't radiating from the bottom and sides. Thereby reducing the amount of fuel (in my case wood) and creating more consistent heat. (Im also gonna make it bigger than the old one). Well anyway, tell me what you think😁
What was the weight of this unit? I had an idea to use this mix for the interior of a solar oven (colored using black pigments that won’t out-gas). I’d like it to be somewhat portable. Thank you!
Great work!! Would adding one part sand help achieve a smoother finish or would this compromise strength? Maybe adding some steel rods would counter the issue?
@@foodrelated thanks that's a great help. I forgot to ask you about what levels of heat the Hibaschi can withstand, I'm looking to make one for myself to cook on over this winter coming, which I am so looking forward to after viewing your inspiring Video. I've got fire bricks ready to rest it on once made. 🙋♀️🌈🌞
Every single video I see of this guy related to fire cooking is trying to build things with materials that were never intended or capable of handling the use. It's a massive waste of time. Using the proper materials is NOT THAT MUCH MORE.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have been researching mixes for a Hibachi grill and have seen plenty of videos that use sodium silicate in the mix as a primary binder for Perlite, cement and playpit sand mixes. The Sodium Silicate or glass water forms a very hard crystalline structure and cures the mix quickly. It also hardens with heat. The sodium silicate mix uses caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) mixed with silica based cat litter. 200g sodium hydroxide 300g silica based cat litter and 500ml water. For the main mix I have seen 4 parts Perlite, one part white cement, one part playpit sand, 0.5 parts water and 0.5 parts sodium silicate. I've also seen others that use casting plaster instead of cement and some that don't use cement at all because the sodium silicate does the job on its own! Anyone tried this?
Add a thin layer of oil on the molds prior to adding cement.
Very good job for a Beginner. Appreciate your job and honesty, and a big smile . I built two 3 BR houses , in my life .
I do have a little bit more than your experience, would like to share with you, young man.
Like Mr Arthoz said: " cement / concrete curing " Soak it twice a day with damp gunny bags ( jute bags ) atleast for 7 days.
( 3 weeks ) is best. 2. You can mix 1/4th of that mixture with 20-30mm pebbles AND use of 10-20mm dia steel mesh or
rectangular frames for very good internal strength . 3. Instead of drilling holes after the construction , you could have
planned , roughly 2inches for air vents , ( shape doesnt matter ) on all four sides at the bottom of the side panel .
Now, you have lot of alternatives to stick in there before pouring the mixture .
All the best. ( use of used pallets wood will do your job as holding the mixture )
Thanks for watching.
For concrete...leave it in warm place and covered with damp cloth to cure. Max strength about 3-4 weeks. Damp is good as concrete need water to cure, dry means bad concrete.
Yes, couldn't agree with you more! Concrete needs water, drying concrete in the first 3 weeks will make it brittle and crumble, because it needs 28 days of staying damp for the chemical reaction and crystalization to take place. Keeping it covered in plastic or damp cloth is highly recommended. Even a slight breeze can cause problems with the curing
Food Related, thanks a bunch for your videos. I'm in south Florida, US. It is very hard to get Fire brick. But with your videos showing how to use the perlite has really been helpful. I really appreciate your videos.
Your welcome David.
Good luck!
Try next time to glue a bit of aerofoam or any insulation foam at the end of the mdf boards for internal peaces, makes life very easy when de molding. Great video.
Thanks
Went in a bit blind!!
I did mine using some fire bricks from Home Depot. Laid them up the way I want it, added concrete to bond/seal them then built a plywood frame around it. Works fine.
Your lucky to have somewhere like Home Depot to buy cheap building resources. Because NZ is so small building materials like firebricks can quite expensive.
Sounds good
@@foodrelated Ohh did not know you are a Kiwi. I been to Auckland once. Great place. Been to the Hobbit place too. Your country is just amazing!
Awesomev video bro. Im building one for my sister, you gotta drill those holes bud.
Hi, made one of these and kept wooden frame on. First used quite cheap charcoal, but did not keep heat that well. I then used decent barquettes and possibly produced too much heat because it transferred to the wooden outer and caught fire. Am now going to try to use a metal 'tinder' box inside to house the charcoal. I used the same ratio of mix.
Real time saving tip: use regular wood for your forms instead of mdf or fiberboard etc etc. Then just take it out back, or take it on an outdoor excursion and have a mini camp fire or bbq till the woods gone...using board instead of composite means no fumes or nasty bits to breathe. Forms are gone and it finishes up any unfinished curing. Cheers🍻
a trick: you can watch movies at kaldroStream. Me and my gf have been using them for watching loads of movies recently.
@Abel Emiliano Yup, have been using kaldrostream for years myself :)
@Abel Emiliano Yup, have been watching on KaldroStream for since december myself =)
2 inch pink foam insulation makes for easy knock outs. Gotta cut it and piece it to size.
Thank you for your content 👍.
I am a professional TH-cam watcher and extremely talented Google researcher (while on the toilet 😉).
So in other words I don't know but I really do believe that if you added or incorporated some coarse sand into your mix it would ultimately be stronger. 🤷♂️👍👍👍😀
Thanks for sharing!
Nice build!
Hi great work maybe you could remove the outside and burn out the middle, I'm just about to start work on your oven design do you think basic cement will be ok or use the more expensive fire cement ? Anyway great work this will be on my next build
My advice for an oven now would be to use refractory cement as Portland cement, although substantially cheaper contracts too much with the heating and cooling of the oven and can cause cracking.
if you had made the inner form long sides in two pieces they would be easy to remove
Do you think an air hole in one end maybe a good idea.?? Do you also think that spraying box with veg oil would help get inner box out easier.??
If you do this again cut the corner on the inside at 45%, so the ends will lock agains the out side of the sides of the inside mold. Then there will be no overlap, wax or oil the mold before adding the mix.
Thanks
I like it!
Gonna try building a grill this way to replace one that I made from steel a few years ago.
Do you think fire clay will hold up to being an outdoor grill?
Ive had decent luck with fire clay in my foundry, but it doesnt get wet. Ever.
I worry about water then fire on the grill as I want it to be stationary so it will see lots of rain. I'm thinking grill paint for the exterior, and maybe pottery glaze for the interior?
On the construction end, im a fan of ramming the mix during the pour, and removing the mold while the mix is still green. At this stage you can use a wet sponge to smooth everything. I also like periodic wetting during the cure to slow things. (Don't know if it is good or bad)
Anyhow, the endgame will produce a grill that better uses heat because it isn't radiating from the bottom and sides. Thereby reducing the amount of fuel (in my case wood) and creating more consistent heat. (Im also gonna make it bigger than the old one).
Well anyway, tell me what you think😁
Fire clay to my knowledge won't do well if wet...
Try Perlite, its very light and satisfying!
Can't wait to see some fire in this thing!
Thanks for watching. Won't be long!
is cement safe to cook food on?
Hola. Puedes quemar el molde. Saludos!
Can you burn the peace out?
What was the weight of this unit? I had an idea to use this mix for the interior of a solar oven (colored using black pigments that won’t out-gas). I’d like it to be somewhat portable. Thank you!
When dried around 7 kgs
Make the inside form an inch or two taller than the outside form. Makes removal easier as you have something to grab on to
Hi Tom, do you recommend using White Cement instead then or just waiting long enough? Thanks
White or Portland would be fine, you could use refractory if you want to spend more $$
let wait see how well it take the heat!
It worked really well, see my later videos using it.
Great work!! Would adding one part sand help achieve a smoother finish or would this compromise strength? Maybe adding some steel rods would counter the issue?
Maybe to both ideas.
Is Perlite safe for food/cooking purposes?
Hi really enjoy your videos, just wondering how thick you make the walls on your perlite pizza ovens, and is each layer the same thickness
Thanks!
Perlite oven had 2 layers the same thickness I think.
All together probably between 120-150mm thick.
Use Pam spray on the forms, it will release like 💩 through a goose
Could have been neat to just burn out the inner mould
Maybe with mark III.
Hello there, would you be so kind as to tell me what Ratios of materials you have used. 🙋♀️🌈🌞
3:1 perlite:cement
@@foodrelated thanks that's a great help. I forgot to ask you about what levels of heat the Hibaschi can withstand, I'm looking to make one for myself to cook on over this winter coming, which I am so looking forward to after viewing your inspiring Video. I've got fire bricks ready to rest it on once made. 🙋♀️🌈🌞
what was the percent of cement to perlite?
75% perlite 25% cement
Question, not sure if any others asked, but have you tried using the high density foam for any of your forms?
Probably could!
Do I have to use white cement? Can I use grey portland cement?
yep, i just used white as i like the colour!
How heavy?
Approximately 5kg
Have you fired it up yet? Did you add holes for air flow?
This weekend, next video coming.
Holes have been added!
Sorry if you mentioned it somewhere but what was the mixing ratio?
The perlite to cement ratio that I would use is 4:1.
Where did you get the perlite
Horticentre
Why not just wrap the forms in cardboard, then slip them out? Or better yet just use a combustible form and burn it away.
All good ideas, thanks. The second time was easy to remove.
You never stop learning!
Can you tell me where can I get perlite? Thanks.
Agricultural supply warehouse?
Amazon?
@@foodrelated thanks
Home depot in the garden section.
Cheap
Why not just put charcoal inside and let it burn the wood.
Can't you just burn the inside out?
Yep
As long as it’s untreated etc
Just badddddddd
Waste of time
Every single video I see of this guy related to fire cooking is trying to build things with materials that were never intended or capable of handling the use. It's a massive waste of time.
Using the proper materials is NOT THAT MUCH MORE.
Thanks Jeff.
You must use styrofoam for moulding. Never wood. This is way people stay away from your videos and do not stay on your channel
Hi, can you tell me if you used a specific white cement? Also, was it used for aesthetic purposes or for a particular reason?
I used white Portland cement.
It was for aesthetic purposes but the type I used has a higher strength rating.