This is a good lot of information. My dad was an airframe fitter ( airplane panel beater) Then an auto panel beater. He was a perfectionist. All his work was with Oxy Acetylene. He welded , beat it flat and continued. I never saw him grind any weld. At the time there was no such thing as plastic filler so his work was "file finish". A normal standard in his time. He taught me to oxy weld aluminium when I was twelve so I have his old attitude towards welding body steel. It should look as good on the inside as the outside. That also guarantees a long life of the weld. I really cringe at the "new" method of MIG tack welding and grinding . No skill and a short life of the metal rusting out again. It is a pleasure to see a new generation of true craftsmen that can do quality welds the proper way. I also noticed that you showed the inside of the weld. Wonderful. None of these MiG "custom welders" would dare show their inside weld rubbish. I can understand TIG is just like Oxy Acet and it is controllable just like Oxy-Acet. Thank you for keeping the skills alive.
Yep tig welding one continuous bead is not only a softer weld which makes it easier to grind (I find more time is spent grinding the panel than welding it), and it produces way less weld, but only do this if you have access to the back side. Mig even though it is also very hot is good when you have no access because the little tack welds can cool off and if you do it slow enough you can also produce a warp free weld which is good when you can't get a hammer behind it. You HAVE to hammer and dolly a tig weld, you need to do a hammer on dolly technique to stretch the weld out since the tig weld causes it to shrink once it cools, while with Mig you really can't planish it because the welds will crack.
Mig welds will eventually crack in an area that has ANY kind of flex, just because the area around a mig weld is more brittle than a tig or a gas weld. This is not debatable… this is physics.
Problem with using MIG wire in either MIG or TIG is that its composition isn't the same as the mild steel in most older cars. Oxy welding mild steel filler rods are supposedly a better match - I'm still playing about with them, but I can confirm that a bead of that is much much softer than an ER70S-6 bead from MIG wire. Newer cars use a higher-strength steel so maybe MIG wire is close enough to them to be OK.
Awesome work, there! This is a proper wide body; I’m getting little tired of people bolting on a set of fibreglass flares and calling it a wide body. Great video!!
I've searched for a custom coach works channel many times in the past and there isn't much on offer. So glad you made the channel. I just subscribed. I will watch literally all your stuff 👍
This is most definitely the 1st time I’ve heard of welding a continuous bead at the seams. Everyone spaces tack welds out and many force cool them. But it’s definitely worth a try to do continuous welds👍 Nice video, thank you 🙂
Very rare to see a video with advice that’s correct on this subject. So many people are giving incorrect advice! The worst thing you can do to a weld is rapidly cool it. It causes extra shrinkage and it tends to be uneven too. Also welding in spots with mig and letting each one cool actually amplifies the warping because you let one tack shrink then add another which shrinks even more right next to it. Also mig welds are best avoided if at all possible because they are so hard compared to tig or the parent metal. Tig can be planished basically as easily as the parent metal. Mig is so hard it’s difficult to planish the weld enough to spread the shrinkage back out. Good work dude. Keep the knowledge coming!
You're very good. It's nice to see someone else recommending the correct technique. I made a similar video myself a while back but you're better (though I still think my vid is a good take on the subject). I wish people would stop recommending that 'lots of tacks and cool them' method. It's bad advice, I learned the hard way. Also, my dad's had a 928 since the early 80's. Helped with the click!
Ryan, great work keep it up. if you are not familiar with fiber laser welding feel free to give me a shout we sell the systems. I have got my TIG welding and Mig down to about 5 to 10 times faster than conventional with a smaller HAZ it’s beyond amazing with this machine. I’d love to help anybody out. We sell these very affordably unlike the big boy guys and these are made for production work. We also have a portable unit
Great video, glad to see someone showing a good way of welding panels. RetroPower are another TH-cam channel that shows this method in depth and worth a watch… their builds are stunning.
Yup, I can see how the consistent heat would reduce any warping. Definitely easier to achieve with TiG compared to MiG IMO. Plus the weld bead a TiG leaves behind seems softer and easier to hammer n dolly than MiG welds. A great tutorial though 👍
Hey I love what you’re doing with the 928 I have collected them for years at one time I had 8 now I am down to 3 s4’s in the early 2000s they use to have a yearly get together at 928 international it was so cool to see 50+ 928s in one place one year I saw a real wide body that was made by Koning I think it was really cool and mike anderson had a 91 he converted into a truck along with his race car there were even some supercharged ones. I truly enjoyed your videos and hope I can see your work in person some day keep up the excellent work 👍
Like clockwork I wait for my weekly Crucible Coachworks fix. I think I may have a problem. Tony, scan and 3d print another Ryan please. Have him make content in the evenings. Two videos a week would really hit the spot.
Loving the duck-tail spoiler on the 928. I had planned to use an S4 spoiler on my 1st gen, but boy does yours look sharp. The aftermarket phone dial rims also rock. Phone dials on 928 are like the 5-holes on a Countach.
Hey Ryan, my algorithm just bought me here and I immediately subscribed. You have skills well beyond your age, and a shop full of awesome projects. I look forward to checking out all your previous vids, and would be keen to see a new video on your Metal Ace, English Wheel. Cheers Aaron
What do you do if you're making something like a motorcycle tank, that you can't get into the backside to planish? I suppose you could rig Something up to get in there... But is there a better way? Also, have you ever experimented with pulse tig on these welds? Would the brief cooling periods, in between pulses, cause warping? This was a great video. Makes me want to try out body work.
Yes it goes against what everyone else will say you can't argue with the results you proved your point perfectly looks like a better easier way to get a perfect fit and you just got a new subscriber thanks for the video i will do it this way next time see how i go
Lovely stuff! Fascinated to know a couple of things: 1. How do you know which die’s to use in the planching hammer or the English wheel? 2. How did you finish the welds after you did them? Saw some grinding, I think? Thanks & keep these vids coming! Loving it
You pros make this look so easy. My hat's off to you! I have many years of experience as a mig welder, mostly industrial manufacturing. I'm very proficient, with many of my own personal tricks. Adjusting into automotive sheet metal has been a real challenge for me, though. I feel like I'm having to start fresh as a newbie. Suffice to say, I never expected low amperage welding to be so difficult. I do have a question...before I make a mistake here, lol. One of my tricks in thick steel, was to put the first 2 or 3 tacks on the opposite side of a joint. Let those cool and pull the alignment in that direction. So when I run the bead on the correct side, the alignment would pull back to straight, and restricted by those first opposing tacks. Long winded, lol. But does that sound like a good strategy for sheet metal? Like in this video, when you placed your first tacks...if I instead, put half those tacks on the back side, then move to the front... And also if I welded the front from the center out to the edges in 2 directions...? Or is that a bad idea? I know that sounds like a newbie question. But I've literally been forced to abandon almost everything I knew about welding, just to learn auto body. Trying to see if I can actually hold onto at least a few things, lol.
You're a good teacher, you explain things very well. I now understand I've been doing it wrong and why. Unfortunately, my welding is not as good as yours - I get too much heat in and I don't have the right rods for mild steel - always end up with bubbles
Great video! Love the welding and English Wheel insights. Great wheel choice (guessing Augment Wheel Dials) I have them in 18” on my 928 in Gold with polished lips. Stunning.
Great combo of skill knowledge and exp. This was great and I know understand why these techniques are important. Thank you! Would love to see your advice for mig welding.
You did this video just in time for me!! Thanks!! On top of that your actually a really good teacher. 👍 Keep up the great work. Got a new follower here. I'll be watching more of your videos over time. Thanks again!
You have all your theories about cutting , welding and distortion SPOT ON ! But..... There is no way that I would tig weld any new made panel , simply because of the extra work in preparing for tig welding , and the grinding . And more importantly the tig weld is harder than the material which the panel steel is made out of , ...there for harder to control when metal finish the surface . I found that by having the two cuts perfectly matching and fuse the weld with the oxy with no filler rod I get less distortion ,and it takes little effort to planish out ,......I also do the same when welding aluminium
Thanks! It's the "Eastwood Elite TG2000 Cordless TIG Welder Tungsten Grinder" If you get it from their website, the code "KRAWS10" should get you 10% off.
Excellent tutorial - helps me a lot for my project. Can you tell me what grit sanding disc you used in the small air sander ? Also what grit did you use on the DA?
If the weld penetrated to the other side (as it should?) then how come there is no back-purging going on? Also, never thought I’d say this about a HAZ, but the HAZ on that short weld looked beautiful! Also, also… DO talk more about the English wheel!
Gotta do what you can to get rear access, whether it’s making a window behind the panel or removing the whole panel itself via the spot welds. Worst case, if completely impossible, I’ll try to prestretch a bit before welding to compensate and TIG weld in stitches. Allowing each stitch to cool before continuing.
Sure thing! 80 grit grinding disk, the rougher grit of scotch brite disk (I’m not sure on grit, but it’s the dark brown style), then 80 grit on a DA sander.
Where the center seam was welded, do you spend more time defining the body line later or use body filler to correct it? I’m not trying to sound rude or anything I just noticed it looses it’s sharpness in the center there… or is my mind playing tricks on me because I know it’s been welded there?
Great video and gold knowledge for my 68 912 project. Maybe i didn't catch it or you didn't tell - but what was the setting on your welder? also i dont have a tig welder. Which one do you use/recommend? thanks and hi from Germany
Thats sick as fuck. Been doing a rear quarter panel swap. Wish i knew this instead. But im just gonna be happy to have a complete and solod metal Z32 again 🤘🙌
No weld cooling.. what!#🤯 Damn i always air cool mig. I also weld both inside & out of the butt joint. I noticed a few times i went welding a bead the heat zone looked ok. I had an inkling but everyone says - no a million tacks. I just made some big panels 5 ft long; complex, 20 pieces.. about to weld it to the car. Air cooling helps stop expansion when near paint, main reason i think i need air cooling today, and my compressor just went out yesterday. So now im thinking maybe i can get by without air.. 🤔
Just subscribed and boy do I have the build for you here is the car madel and year and you tell me if your interested to work on it with me .. is an 2003 Hyundai Sonata v6 , and I want us to build a body for it like 😅everything… I love your work and I want to team up with you to tackle this project let me know if we can make this happen.
This is a good lot of information. My dad was an airframe fitter ( airplane panel beater) Then an auto panel beater. He was a perfectionist. All his work was with Oxy Acetylene. He welded , beat it flat and continued. I never saw him grind any weld. At the time there was no such thing as plastic filler so his work was "file finish". A normal standard in his time. He taught me to oxy weld aluminium when I was twelve so I have his old attitude towards welding body steel. It should look as good on the inside as the outside. That also guarantees a long life of the weld. I really cringe at the "new" method of MIG tack welding and grinding . No skill and a short life of the metal rusting out again. It is a pleasure to see a new generation of true craftsmen that can do quality welds the proper way. I also noticed that you showed the inside of the weld. Wonderful. None of these MiG "custom welders" would dare show their inside weld rubbish. I can understand TIG is just like Oxy Acet and it is controllable just like Oxy-Acet. Thank you for keeping the skills alive.
Thanks for sharing! Cheers!
Wow ❤I want to meet your dad bro !!
@@BiGMiAMiTV Sadly He passed away in 2020 at 95 with Alzheimer's. Up until 92 he was still tinkering with cars and making rifles.
@@tinnedanger🙏❤☝🏼
I find TiG just like o-a welding too; make a puddle dip your rod in and keep on moving, simple! 😂
Kyle from Carter Auto Restyling is worth watching, he doesn't have much of a shop but is very talanted in metal work.
Yep tig welding one continuous bead is not only a softer weld which makes it easier to grind (I find more time is spent grinding the panel than welding it), and it produces way less weld, but only do this if you have access to the back side. Mig even though it is also very hot is good when you have no access because the little tack welds can cool off and if you do it slow enough you can also produce a warp free weld which is good when you can't get a hammer behind it. You HAVE to hammer and dolly a tig weld, you need to do a hammer on dolly technique to stretch the weld out since the tig weld causes it to shrink once it cools, while with Mig you really can't planish it because the welds will crack.
My mig welds have never cracked after planishing but they are very difficult to planish as they are pretty hard.
@@stricht8 It depends on the gauge of metal and how much penetration there was and if you grind both sides, etc.
Mig welds will eventually crack in an area that has ANY kind of flex, just because the area around a mig weld is more brittle than a tig or a gas weld. This is not debatable… this is physics.
Problem with using MIG wire in either MIG or TIG is that its composition isn't the same as the mild steel in most older cars. Oxy welding mild steel filler rods are supposedly a better match - I'm still playing about with them, but I can confirm that a bead of that is much much softer than an ER70S-6 bead from MIG wire.
Newer cars use a higher-strength steel so maybe MIG wire is close enough to them to be OK.
My 2 fav things about your posts: project progress & protips. Keep the goodness flowing!
Awesome work, there! This is a proper wide body; I’m getting little tired of people bolting on a set of fibreglass flares and calling it a wide body.
Great video!!
The outcome was amazing, The panel appears to be one single piece, very impressive work and skillset.
would love to see you step through all your hand hammers/dollies and explain what situation each is for!
I've searched for a custom coach works channel many times in the past and there isn't much on offer. So glad you made the channel. I just subscribed. I will watch literally all your stuff 👍
This is the best video on sheet metal working/finishing I've seen! I've been looking for one like this as I plan a few future projects. Thank you!
You should check out Karl Fisher's YT channel "Make It Kustom" if you haven't already. He has some really good videos on making panels as well.
This is most definitely the 1st time I’ve heard of welding a continuous bead at the seams. Everyone spaces tack welds out and many force cool them. But it’s definitely worth a try to do continuous welds👍 Nice video, thank you 🙂
If you're tigging, once you try this method you'll never go back. Absolute game changer
Very rare to see a video with advice that’s correct on this subject. So many people are giving incorrect advice! The worst thing you can do to a weld is rapidly cool it. It causes extra shrinkage and it tends to be uneven too. Also welding in spots with mig and letting each one cool actually amplifies the warping because you let one tack shrink then add another which shrinks even more right next to it.
Also mig welds are best avoided if at all possible because they are so hard compared to tig or the parent metal. Tig can be planished basically as easily as the parent metal. Mig is so hard it’s difficult to planish the weld enough to spread the shrinkage back out. Good work dude. Keep the knowledge coming!
Simply amazing
The metal work alone is amazing.
You're very good. It's nice to see someone else recommending the correct technique. I made a similar video myself a while back but you're better (though I still think my vid is a good take on the subject). I wish people would stop recommending that 'lots of tacks and cool them' method. It's bad advice, I learned the hard way.
Also, my dad's had a 928 since the early 80's. Helped with the click!
Ryan, great work keep it up. if you are not familiar with fiber laser welding feel free to give me a shout we sell the systems. I have got my TIG welding and Mig down to about 5 to 10 times faster than conventional with a smaller HAZ it’s beyond amazing with this machine. I’d love to help anybody out. We sell these very affordably unlike the big boy guys and these are made for production work. We also have a portable unit
Great video, glad to see someone showing a good way of welding panels.
RetroPower are another TH-cam channel that shows this method in depth and worth a watch… their builds are stunning.
Thanks for explaining why you hammer and dolly after welding. I should have known why ,but you made it clear.
Yup, I can see how the consistent heat would reduce any warping. Definitely easier to achieve with TiG compared to MiG IMO. Plus the weld bead a TiG leaves behind seems softer and easier to hammer n dolly than MiG welds. A great tutorial though 👍
Hey I love what you’re doing with the 928 I have collected them for years at one time I had 8 now I am down to 3 s4’s in the early 2000s they use to have a yearly get together at 928 international it was so cool to see 50+ 928s in one place one year I saw a real wide body that was made by Koning I think it was really cool and mike anderson had a 91 he converted into a truck along with his race car there were even some supercharged ones. I truly enjoyed your videos and hope I can see your work in person some day keep up the excellent work 👍
Like clockwork I wait for my weekly Crucible Coachworks fix. I think I may have a problem. Tony, scan and 3d print another Ryan please. Have him make content in the evenings. Two videos a week would really hit the spot.
Haha thanks! We’ll keep that in mind. 🫡🤝🏻
Loving the duck-tail spoiler on the 928. I had planned to use an S4 spoiler on my 1st gen, but boy does yours look sharp.
The aftermarket phone dial rims also rock. Phone dials on 928 are like the 5-holes on a Countach.
You're right, this is completely counterintuitive and the opposite of everything I've been taught, but it does appear to work
Using only one word you are an artist 🔝
Fantastic job and that English wheel is a piece of Art!
Yes make an English wheel video please. A plannishing hammer video as well would be helpful.
Definitely a different way of doing things I’ll try the best version I can on my bay window bus this week good job dude
I'm not a fan of widebody kits, but they look good on most porsches. I think they're probably just designed so beautifully, it's hard to mess them up.
Wow, I've had it backwards for so long! :DD , and as you said, the result speak for it self! Thanks
That's nice old body work imagine how they welded since then today we have all the nice technology to work with the old dudes know how to do
Hey Ryan, my algorithm just bought me here and I immediately subscribed.
You have skills well beyond your age, and a shop full of awesome projects.
I look forward to checking out all your previous vids, and would be keen to see a new video on your Metal Ace, English Wheel.
Cheers Aaron
Awesome, thank you!
What do you do if you're making something like a motorcycle tank, that you can't get into the backside to planish? I suppose you could rig Something up to get in there... But is there a better way?
Also, have you ever experimented with pulse tig on these welds? Would the brief cooling periods, in between pulses, cause warping?
This was a great video. Makes me want to try out body work.
EXCELLENT DESCRIPTION OF YOUR CRAFTWORKS
Yes it goes against what everyone else will say you can't argue with the results you proved your point perfectly looks like a better easier way to get a perfect fit and you just got a new subscriber thanks for the video i will do it this way next time see how i go
Lovely stuff! Fascinated to know a couple of things:
1. How do you know which die’s to use in the planching hammer or the English wheel?
2. How did you finish the welds after you did them? Saw some grinding, I think?
Thanks & keep these vids coming! Loving it
The roof, quarters and floor are galvanized
You pros make this look so easy. My hat's off to you! I have many years of experience as a mig welder, mostly industrial manufacturing. I'm very proficient, with many of my own personal tricks.
Adjusting into automotive sheet metal has been a real challenge for me, though. I feel like I'm having to start fresh as a newbie. Suffice to say, I never expected low amperage welding to be so difficult.
I do have a question...before I make a mistake here, lol. One of my tricks in thick steel, was to put the first 2 or 3 tacks on the opposite side of a joint. Let those cool and pull the alignment in that direction. So when I run the bead on the correct side, the alignment would pull back to straight, and restricted by those first opposing tacks.
Long winded, lol. But does that sound like a good strategy for sheet metal? Like in this video, when you placed your first tacks...if I instead, put half those tacks on the back side, then move to the front... And also if I welded the front from the center out to the edges in 2 directions...? Or is that a bad idea?
I know that sounds like a newbie question. But I've literally been forced to abandon almost everything I knew about welding, just to learn auto body. Trying to see if I can actually hold onto at least a few things, lol.
What's your preffered method of grinding down the welds, with the least warpage? 40 grit? 60 grit?
Nice job! Hard to argue good results.
You're a good teacher, you explain things very well. I now understand I've been doing it wrong and why. Unfortunately, my welding is not as good as yours - I get too much heat in and I don't have the right rods for mild steel - always end up with bubbles
Great video! Love the welding and English Wheel insights. Great wheel choice (guessing Augment Wheel Dials) I have them in 18” on my 928 in Gold with polished lips. Stunning.
Great combo of skill knowledge and exp. This was great and I know understand why these techniques are important. Thank you! Would love to see your advice for mig welding.
You’re a god send for this vid! Answered a few questions I had for a while!!
You did this video just in time for me!! Thanks!! On top of that your actually a really good teacher. 👍 Keep up the great work. Got a new follower here. I'll be watching more of your videos over time. Thanks again!
Your metal work is always impressive! Love the look of the 928
Great idea with the tabs / clecos. A+ video
That 2+2 is the best gum cutter in the world.
You have all your theories about cutting , welding and distortion SPOT ON ! But..... There is no way that I would tig weld any new made panel , simply because of the extra work in preparing for tig welding , and the grinding . And more importantly the tig weld is harder than the material which the panel steel is made out of , ...there for harder to control when metal finish the surface . I found that by having the two cuts perfectly matching and fuse the weld with the oxy with no filler rod I get less distortion ,and it takes little effort to planish out ,......I also do the same when welding aluminium
How much does a project like this go for? Your work is amazing!!! Started saving to see if you can do some custom work on my 944 😆
Cheers mate very informative will give it a go. Im the mig then cool it bloke and I have every issue you just pointed out.
Very nice work, just wondering if you noticed that the horizontal body line through your panel is a little wavy
Very impressive and the results? Wow! Subscribed and look forward to seeing more of that 928.
I read about "hammer welding" in a Petersen autobody book from the 1970s. They used oxy-acetylene.
This was a great video to watch, thank you
Great video and one question what tool are you using to sharpen the tungsten. I would like to know the name of it. Thanks again.
Thanks!
It's the "Eastwood Elite TG2000 Cordless TIG Welder Tungsten Grinder"
If you get it from their website, the code "KRAWS10" should get you 10% off.
Excellent tutorial - helps me a lot for my project. Can you tell me what grit sanding disc you used in the small air sander ? Also what grit did you use on the DA?
80 grit!
If the weld penetrated to the other side (as it should?) then how come there is no back-purging going on?
Also, never thought I’d say this about a HAZ, but the HAZ on that short weld looked beautiful!
Also, also… DO talk more about the English wheel!
english wheel vid.,,, yes please..
Yes, yes, yes please do a video on the English wheel.
What technique would you use when you don’t have access to the back side of the panel/weld?
Gotta do what you can to get rear access, whether it’s making a window behind the panel or removing the whole panel itself via the spot welds.
Worst case, if completely impossible, I’ll try to prestretch a bit before welding to compensate and TIG weld in stitches. Allowing each stitch to cool before continuing.
Excellent video and skills.
But let's hear it 👏🏼 for the camera man, great viewing angles on the work being done 👍🏼🇦🇺🌏
Logan is very good at what he does! 🤝🏻
You make a great team. I'm a new subscriber 👍🏼
Bravo! Great work, keep it coming!
Very nicely done! Amazing work!
thanks for the video Ryan, could you though, share what progression of sanding pads you used to clean up the weld? much appreciated.
Sure thing! 80 grit grinding disk, the rougher grit of scotch brite disk (I’m not sure on grit, but it’s the dark brown style), then 80 grit on a DA sander.
For warp free welds, be a good welder. Got it.
I have that same Bosch electric shear but whenever I use it (18 gauge) I get wavy metal edges. Is there a secret? Thank you.
B-E-A-UTIFUL! Love your videos!
What a great video thanks for the great information.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Where the center seam was welded, do you spend more time defining the body line later or use body filler to correct it? I’m not trying to sound rude or anything I just noticed it looses it’s sharpness in the center there… or is my mind playing tricks on me because I know it’s been welded there?
When doing mig on panels how long do you recommend waiting between tacks letting the panel cool?
Next project: Modernized Porsche 924. Audi TTrs engine, gearbox and dashboard with your custom exterior touches.
Perfect! Lol
So, there's no secret to warp free weldd.
You manage the warp, then bodywork out where the is.
Great video and gold knowledge for my 68 912 project. Maybe i didn't catch it or you didn't tell - but what was the setting on your welder? also i dont have a tig welder. Which one do you use/recommend? thanks and hi from Germany
MIG welding my panels - shlould still go with a solid straight weld after tacking them ?
Awesome vid guys. I leaned a lot
You forgot one important factor. Talent. Not everyone can create like you can!!! Just like not everyone can be a master painter.
How would you tackle the same task with a mig? Great channel!
Thats sick as fuck. Been doing a rear quarter panel swap. Wish i knew this instead. But im just gonna be happy to have a complete and solod metal Z32 again 🤘🙌
How and where did you get the dies for your eastwood planishing hammer....
Mine are extremely small?
No you are right…. Weld fast and in one hit.
Precision Panel Craft…
Outstanding video, thank you!
Hallo und Danke für die Ideen Die Du umsetzt. Wie sieht sowas am Sedan aus? Ich möchte es gerne übernehmen für den Sedan.
sweet build
Beautiful. I'mma show this to every buddy that says I shouldn't weld long seams and I should use air to cool my welds! bwahahaha
Yes please on the English wheel vid!
Happy new year . Awesome video great learning
Can you use old wire hangers from the dry cleaner?
Nice work going on there, thanks for sharing the how to's
No weld cooling.. what!#🤯
Damn i always air cool mig. I also weld both inside & out of the butt joint. I noticed a few times i went welding a bead the heat zone looked ok. I had an inkling but everyone says - no a million tacks. I just made some big panels 5 ft long; complex, 20 pieces.. about to weld it to the car. Air cooling helps stop expansion when near paint, main reason i think i need air cooling today, and my compressor just went out yesterday. So now im thinking maybe i can get by without air.. 🤔
Thanks for the tips
Nice work.
thats some fine work sir!
Thank you! Cheers!
What kind of tack weld magnets were those? I’ve thought about getting the VIM set
Let's be honest here. You are not building a car, you are creating a piece of art.
The HF wheel is about $400 now with one die. They discontinued the die set. Like many other HF shop tools needs to be modded for best results.
That’s disappointing - thanks for the heads up!
what do you do if you cannot get behind the panel to hammer and dolly it??
What size and type of tungsten? And gas pressure cup size?
Nice work
That is a bad ass English wheel
What size wire and tungsten do you like to use for sheetmetal
Oh nice work on that 928!
Just subscribed and boy do I have the build for you here is the car madel and year and you tell me if your interested to work on it with me .. is an 2003 Hyundai Sonata v6 , and I want us to build a body for it like 😅everything… I love your work and I want to team up with you to tackle this project let me know if we can make this happen.