@@NC944er I know this is a lot to ask, I was looking at this 944, in the video...does the engine sound normal or like something is wrong? th-cam.com/video/VZiAM4txRZY/w-d-xo.html
I’ve had a really wierd occurrence on my 944 Turbo where the normal belt whine suddenly multiplies in volume by like 3x so that it gets to an unbearable point to the ears. Any ideas? Keep up the good work man! 😄
I just picked up an 88 944 and I'm glad I found your videos I'll be watching them all, you have a crazy amount of knowledge. Any thoughts on why mine idols high (2000) after it gets hot? it's fine when it starts. I just got it and haven't had time to start checking things.
Sweet! Mine is an ‘88 as well, so everything should translate well to yours, I’m glad you’re enjoying the channel so far! The idle condition you describe would most commonly point to a malfunctioning or stuck idle control valve (ICV), which sits under the intake manifold, or a fouled up throttle position sensor (TPS), under the throttle body. Either of these sensors can get clogged up with oil deposits circulating through the intake channels.
I am on day 2 of a cam tower gasket replacement which evolved in to a head refresh with oil cooler seals. Your head gasket videos have been invaluable. Your car may even be the same color as mine lol "kalahari beige metallic"?
Nice! Good call on the oil cooler seals, those can end up causing bad issues. You’re close on the paint color, mine is Zermatt Silver Metallic, it has a lot of “champagne” tones in it.
Hey, I watch your videos all the time and they’re so helpful! I saw that your fuel gauge said that it was empty while you were running it, is your fuel gauge broken? I think that mine is, so I would love to see a video if you ever fix it (if it is broken). Thanks!
Hey thanks! My fuel gauge works, I was just running on empty at the time. 😂 Although, it was sporadic when I bought the car, jumping up and down randomly and eventually quit, the fuel level sending unit had failed (sensor that sits atop the fuel tank), which is most often the case. They cost about $200 and can be swapped out from above, just have to pull back the cargo carpet and disconnect two vapor lines and one electrical connector. A non-working gauge could also point to faulty wiring or gauge cluster / connector issues.
For anyone else who has this issue and it’s not the sending unit..... I pulled the cluster and physically move the gauge needle about 25 times and it works great now. My car sat for over ten years so I think the needle was stuck.
Congratulations, you found the hidden Easter Egg! 😂 Those are the factory caps for the sport suspension, part number: 999-703-355-40 and I had been meaning to add those to the car for some time now, but I just finally got around to it a couple months ago. They add the finishing touch to a Koni strut conversion… only about $5 apiece. 👍🏼
That is an impressively clean engine. Did you have everything zinc plated and sandblasted when you had it out? (I assumed it's been pulled?) Thanks for the great videos!
Thank you sir! Many hours of work there. 😂 You’re exactly right, all the steel brackets and supports were pulled, glass bead blasted, and then yellow zinc plated. The intake manifold and camshaft assembly have been powder coated in satin clear. There’s another video here on the channel that highlights the before and after - th-cam.com/video/-wqgrXRTsxA/w-d-xo.html
@@NC944er Very nice! I'm still making my way through your videos, but did you end up pulling and rebuilding the engine? Or just head gasket, timing belt etc? My engine is getting up there in miles and probably will need a rebuild at some point. Currently getting a full paint job, but gotta a pretty bad oil leak from the pan, and shaking on the highway. Oil leak I'm not sure other that the pan, but highway I'm thinking something to do with the drive shaft?
@@brendantaylor6879 I basically ended up rebuilding the lower half and then the upper half with the engine in the car, slowly over time while driving the car in between and chasing down various issues. In retrospect, it probably would have been easier to pull the engine and rebuild it all at once, but then I wouldn’t have been able to enjoy the car for quite some time. I did the pan gasket and connecting rod bearings below and then a head rebuild and head gasket above. All the oil soils have now been replaced with the exception of the rear main seal, which sits behind the clutch. An oil leak at the back of the pan could either be the pan gasket or the rear crankshaft seal as they tend to seep down in the same general area. Shakes at speed can be a pretty broad issue covering a number of items, but one of the most common reasons is collapsed engine mounts. The bearings inside the torque tube can wear out as well, causing some vibrations, but certainly check the more accessible pieces of the driveline first, CV axles, wheels, tires, etc.
So I watched your full lifter testing video before finishing up a head gasket job and had a question: if I’ve got a lifter that’s nearly impossible to depress with a screwdriver, would shooting some compressed air in the side hole clean up any clogs by chance?
Hey! It's a possibility that could work... it depends on how badly clogged up the check valve is, but it certainly wouldn't hurt anything to give it a try.
Your steering rack is cleaner than my kitchen counter. Keep up the great content!
It’s also cleaner than MY kitchen counter. Maybe I should start eating the garage. 😂
@@NC944er I know this is a lot to ask, I was looking at this 944, in the video...does the engine sound normal or like something is wrong? th-cam.com/video/VZiAM4txRZY/w-d-xo.html
Great video man, keep up the great 944 content! Thanks
Excellent uploads as usual. Thanks.
I’ve had a really wierd occurrence on my 944 Turbo where the normal belt whine suddenly multiplies in volume by like 3x so that it gets to an unbearable point to the ears. Any ideas? Keep up the good work man! 😄
Thanks! I’d check the tension on the belts as wells as the bearings on the rollers and tensioner pulleys.
@@NC944er aight‘ thanks 👌
Hey, had this issue too. My V-belt was strapped too tightly, you' be surprised how loose they are suppose to be mounted haha
I just picked up an 88 944 and I'm glad I found your videos I'll be watching them all, you have a crazy amount of knowledge. Any thoughts on why mine idols high (2000) after it gets hot? it's fine when it starts. I just got it and haven't had time to start checking things.
Sweet! Mine is an ‘88 as well, so everything should translate well to yours, I’m glad you’re enjoying the channel so far! The idle condition you describe would most commonly point to a malfunctioning or stuck idle control valve (ICV), which sits under the intake manifold, or a fouled up throttle position sensor (TPS), under the throttle body. Either of these sensors can get clogged up with oil deposits circulating through the intake channels.
@@NC944er Perfect, now I have a place to start. thank you.
I am on day 2 of a cam tower gasket replacement which evolved in to a head refresh with oil cooler seals. Your head gasket videos have been invaluable. Your car may even be the same color as mine lol "kalahari beige metallic"?
Nice! Good call on the oil cooler seals, those can end up causing bad issues. You’re close on the paint color, mine is Zermatt Silver Metallic, it has a lot of “champagne” tones in it.
Hey, I watch your videos all the time and they’re so helpful! I saw that your fuel gauge said that it was empty while you were running it, is your fuel gauge broken? I think that mine is, so I would love to see a video if you ever fix it (if it is broken). Thanks!
Hey thanks! My fuel gauge works, I was just running on empty at the time. 😂 Although, it was sporadic when I bought the car, jumping up and down randomly and eventually quit, the fuel level sending unit had failed (sensor that sits atop the fuel tank), which is most often the case. They cost about $200 and can be swapped out from above, just have to pull back the cargo carpet and disconnect two vapor lines and one electrical connector. A non-working gauge could also point to faulty wiring or gauge cluster / connector issues.
For anyone else who has this issue and it’s not the sending unit..... I pulled the cluster and physically move the gauge needle about 25 times and it works great now. My car sat for over ten years so I think the needle was stuck.
Great stuff!! Thanks!!
what are those caps on top of your koni rebound adjuster?
Congratulations, you found the hidden Easter Egg! 😂 Those are the factory caps for the sport suspension, part number: 999-703-355-40 and I had been meaning to add those to the car for some time now, but I just finally got around to it a couple months ago. They add the finishing touch to a Koni strut conversion… only about $5 apiece. 👍🏼
That is an impressively clean engine. Did you have everything zinc plated and sandblasted when you had it out? (I assumed it's been pulled?) Thanks for the great videos!
Thank you sir! Many hours of work there. 😂 You’re exactly right, all the steel brackets and supports were pulled, glass bead blasted, and then yellow zinc plated. The intake manifold and camshaft assembly have been powder coated in satin clear. There’s another video here on the channel that highlights the before and after - th-cam.com/video/-wqgrXRTsxA/w-d-xo.html
@@NC944er Very nice! I'm still making my way through your videos, but did you end up pulling and rebuilding the engine? Or just head gasket, timing belt etc? My engine is getting up there in miles and probably will need a rebuild at some point. Currently getting a full paint job, but gotta a pretty bad oil leak from the pan, and shaking on the highway. Oil leak I'm not sure other that the pan, but highway I'm thinking something to do with the drive shaft?
@@brendantaylor6879 I basically ended up rebuilding the lower half and then the upper half with the engine in the car, slowly over time while driving the car in between and chasing down various issues. In retrospect, it probably would have been easier to pull the engine and rebuild it all at once, but then I wouldn’t have been able to enjoy the car for quite some time. I did the pan gasket and connecting rod bearings below and then a head rebuild and head gasket above. All the oil soils have now been replaced with the exception of the rear main seal, which sits behind the clutch. An oil leak at the back of the pan could either be the pan gasket or the rear crankshaft seal as they tend to seep down in the same general area. Shakes at speed can be a pretty broad issue covering a number of items, but one of the most common reasons is collapsed engine mounts. The bearings inside the torque tube can wear out as well, causing some vibrations, but certainly check the more accessible pieces of the driveline first, CV axles, wheels, tires, etc.
So I watched your full lifter testing video before finishing up a head gasket job and had a question: if I’ve got a lifter that’s nearly impossible to depress with a screwdriver, would shooting some compressed air in the side hole clean up any clogs by chance?
Hey! It's a possibility that could work... it depends on how badly clogged up the check valve is, but it certainly wouldn't hurt anything to give it a try.
@@NC944er gotcha thanks for the reply and for the head gasket tutorial I wouldn’t have bought this car without your videos!!
@@mohamedhussein5190 That’s awesome to hear! They aren’t getting any cheaper to maintain and doing you own work certainly helps.
I think I have a spun bearing.
Noooooooo! 😳
I think my rod bearing failed 😔
Oh no, that’s bad news! Is it faint or loud? Maybe still time to save it, if it’s not too far gone.