Even better than blue masking tape, get a roll of GAFFER tape. It's strong and sticks like duct tape, but doesn't leave residue (unless you leave it for a long time). Gaffer tape is what photographers and cinematographers use to keep cords in place, hold backgrounds, etc. I even used it once when a horse threw a shoe, to protect the horse's hoof until we could get to a farrier and have a new shoe put on. I don't know about TR6, but the "chrome" windshield locking strip on TR4 were aluminum. The new replacements are plastic. The plastic are easier to install and look the same, but they tend to shrink over time and can open a gap at the bottom joint. So be careful trimming the end, so there is little or no gap at all to begin with. That way they will last as long as possible. Elin, how about you come help me reinstall the window in my TR4's hardtop backlight? It's the original and irreplaceable.... Installs the same way, but is a job I really dread! 😮
When I started working in the limousine place that is how they were doing it. Gasket on the car and the window on the gasket. It involved a lot of swearing and cracked glass was very common thing. I thought them how to do it the other way around and they were amazed how much easier it was.
Nice work Elin. Had the same issue with the gasket. I soaked it in hot water for 5 mins and then it fitted ok, after which I taped in place and left it overnight to shrink a bit. Just one thing for any folk wanting to fit a Triplex from Pilkington bought from Moss- they don't fit in the top corners. The contours are wrong when compared to an original screen which I discovered after two hours and two people trying and swearing. Ended up buying a cheap Chinese made screen for less than half the price which guess what was fitted in 15mins!!!!
I have a couple thoughts based on the 30 + times I have installed rear windscreens in MGB factory hardtops that I restore. 1. I also use duct tape to hold the gasket in place but instead of mounting the gasket on the windscreen I fit it to the opening in the hardtop. I hold it in place with the duct tape on the edge of the gasket horizontally, lapping it slightly into the channel that holds the chrome locking strip, then stick it to the fiberglass of the window frame. By doing it this way you never have the tape covering the gap that receives the glass so you don't have to remove the tape as you go as you were doing in the video. 2. The MGB locking strip has a slightly different profile but works in a similar manner. You can buy a special tool that spreads the gap open as you feed the strip in and it is pushed down into the groove by a rubber roller. I have used both the "rope trick" as you have but have also had great results using those plastic tools as you do, but use them to lift the edge of the gasket and pry it over the glass as I work my way along. I hope this isn't WAY to longwinded a response, just trying to offer some alternative ideas. You video's are always highly instructional and great fun to watch.
I was with you all the way, Elin. I drank several beers for you. I installed a windshield about 9 years ago. I do not remember having to fight the windshield seal, and I used a poly rope, but no soap, I may have used a light oil. About 3 years ago, the seal broke at the bottom center, where they glued it together (seam). The plastic trim also shrunk after several years, now the joiner is too small.
Great job, courage of a lion. Yes they always looked easy to install in the past. I've seen people leave the gasket in warm water for a while before putting it on the screen
Another thing I found to make it easier. I used 1/4" rope. Instead of a larger size. The cheap stuff they sell at tractor supply is perfect for that it stretches when you pull on it. That makes the diameter thinner. Making it easier to pull through. You still need the soapy water to help lubricate.
Mike, This is on Moss website " Before installation, run a bead of non-hardening windshield sealer in the glass channel of the rubber seal. Install the seal, finisher and clip onto the glass. Insert a length of strong thin cord in the seal channel, with the ends protruding from the lower center (see illustration)." I am about to do my windshield. Does anyone do it this way? Does anyone use the "non-hardening sealer in the gasket?
@slegsonly I think it depends on the individual. People like me who are on a razor-thin budget may not. People who want to do a to-the-letter perfect restoration probably will. When I did mine, I found it easier (and cheaper) to just use the cord I already had. The rubber grips very tightly around the windshield, and I don't see it as a problem since these cars are, generally speaking, garage beauties that are not daily drivers.
Well done Elin, looks good, love the way that trim goes in! Wish my Stag one was like that, they have a stainless trim in 2 parts that even professional windscreen fitters can’t manage in the UK. I made a special too, and managed to fit the rubber to the screen, then the trim to the rubber- took me 4 hours and very sore hands though! After that the whole lot popped into the car using string in about 5 minutes flat, I was so pleased!
Back in 1990 when I did my first TR6 screen with my father, they used to sell a little wheeled tool that you pressed into the groove and wheeled the trim flat as you went round, rather than hammering it. It was quite good once you got the hang of it and made the trim lie nice and flat. Not sure you can even get one nowadays. Not a very difficult job, but tricky and frustrating. No idea how you manage it alone!
Yes, used those on some windshields that had a rubber round locking trim instead of the chrome trim. I used in on the first chrome trim I installed and it worked, but it took too long. Then I tried just pushing it in, and I found that it actually needs just a little help with the rubber mallet and no need of special tools.
Hi Elin, well thanks to you and your wonderful videos I have just purchased my own rusty beauty, in fact its so rusty its hard to recognise it as a 1964 Austin Healy 3000, lets get crack-a-lacking.
Just about to tackle this on my Scimitar Coupe, and of course the lip is fiberglass so not as rigid as a steel one, which might be worse, or might deform a little in a helpful way. I plan to warm the seal before fitting it, it does seem rather hard. I wonder if WD40 is a better lubricant, or would it make my hands too slippery? Wish me luck!
Nice job but I’m sure when I did my MGBGT I fitted the rubber gasket to the car first then fitted the glass inside the gasket last was an easy job, is there a specific reason you do it your way because I’ve got a new screen to fit on my Vitesse! Would very much appreciated your answer?
On a classic Mini, not the new BMW one, its the opposite, fit the rubber to the opening then fit the screen. don't use rope or wire as it will destroy the rubber. There are two tools available for fitting the plastic locking trim, the wheeled one is better and not too expensive.
Some useless info: We all know how well a Volkswagen Beetle's doors seal. You have to open a window slightly otherwise its nearly impossible to close the doors. One guy tried to close the door without opening a window and the front screen popped out!
Overly hard rubber products throughout the whole British car hobby is a really big problem. Also, that chrome/plastic trim from Moss Is very poor quality. I've put that same thing on my front and rear Mini windscreens, but with about 1.5 - 2 years, it fades out to a dull no chrome grey. The original lasted 20 years!
Great Video, Thanks for sharing Elin. Now I know where to take my car when I need a new windshield!
'Polar wire' is really nice since it isn't as rigid and regular automotive wire. It also has a very smooth surface.
Even better than blue masking tape, get a roll of GAFFER tape. It's strong and sticks like duct tape, but doesn't leave residue (unless you leave it for a long time). Gaffer tape is what photographers and cinematographers use to keep cords in place, hold backgrounds, etc. I even used it once when a horse threw a shoe, to protect the horse's hoof until we could get to a farrier and have a new shoe put on.
I don't know about TR6, but the "chrome" windshield locking strip on TR4 were aluminum. The new replacements are plastic. The plastic are easier to install and look the same, but they tend to shrink over time and can open a gap at the bottom joint. So be careful trimming the end, so there is little or no gap at all to begin with. That way they will last as long as possible.
Elin, how about you come help me reinstall the window in my TR4's hardtop backlight? It's the original and irreplaceable.... Installs the same way, but is a job I really dread! 😮
I've always installed the gasket first then put the windshield in with rope, easier to hammer on the gasket than the glass.
When I started working in the limousine place that is how they were doing it. Gasket on the car and the window on the gasket. It involved a lot of swearing and cracked glass was very common thing. I thought them how to do it the other way around and they were amazed how much easier it was.
Nice work Elin. Had the same issue with the gasket. I soaked it in hot water for 5 mins and then it fitted ok, after which I taped in place and left it overnight to shrink a bit. Just one thing for any folk wanting to fit a Triplex from Pilkington bought from Moss- they don't fit in the top corners. The contours are wrong when compared to an original screen which I discovered after two hours and two people trying and swearing. Ended up buying a cheap Chinese made screen for less than half the price which guess what was fitted in 15mins!!!!
Elin, Thank you for showing us how to do the hard install items. You make it look easy but we all know that it isn't.
Nice job. I'm petrified to do anything on a windshield. So nice to see how you finessed (with a few grunts and groans) it into place. 👍
Thanks for this. Now I have some confidence that I can do this. Going to get some help with the process as I am working on a GT6 .
I have a couple thoughts based on the 30 + times I have installed rear windscreens in MGB factory hardtops that I restore. 1. I also use duct tape to hold the gasket in place but instead of mounting the gasket on the windscreen I fit it to the opening in the hardtop. I hold it in place with the duct tape on the edge of the gasket horizontally, lapping it slightly into the channel that holds the chrome locking strip, then stick it to the fiberglass of the window frame. By doing it this way you never have the tape covering the gap that receives the glass so you don't have to remove the tape as you go as you were doing in the video. 2. The MGB locking strip has a slightly different profile but works in a similar manner. You can buy a special tool that spreads the gap open as you feed the strip in and it is pushed down into the groove by a rubber roller. I have used both the "rope trick" as you have but have also had great results using those plastic tools as you do, but use them to lift the edge of the gasket and pry it over the glass as I work my way along. I hope this isn't WAY to longwinded a response, just trying to offer some alternative ideas. You video's are always highly instructional and great fun to watch.
Nice job. My gasket is most likely original and all dried out. It definitely needs a replacement. Good tutorial.
Really useful video… I have a Morris Minor screen to replace and this will be a great reference 👍
Hi Elin, Rusty knew that there would be no glue on this one. You make it look so easy again. That screen looks new as well. Great job, well done!!
I was with you all the way, Elin. I drank several beers for you. I installed a windshield about 9 years ago. I do not remember having to fight the windshield seal, and I used a poly rope, but no soap, I may have used a light oil. About 3 years ago, the seal broke at the bottom center, where they glued it together (seam). The plastic trim also shrunk after several years, now the joiner is too small.
I just found this video. Should be very helpful when I go to put mine in. Thanks!
Great job, courage of a lion. Yes they always looked easy to install in the past. I've seen people leave the gasket in warm water for a while before putting it on the screen
loved this episode..
Another thing I found to make it easier. I used 1/4" rope. Instead of a larger size. The cheap stuff they sell at tractor supply is perfect for that it stretches when you pull on it. That makes the diameter thinner. Making it easier to pull through. You still need the soapy water to help lubricate.
Mike, This is on Moss website " Before installation, run a bead of non-hardening windshield sealer in the glass channel of the rubber seal. Install the seal, finisher and clip onto the glass. Insert a length of strong thin cord in the seal channel, with the ends protruding from the lower center (see illustration)." I am about to do my windshield. Does anyone do it this way? Does anyone use the "non-hardening sealer in the gasket?
@slegsonly I think it depends on the individual. People like me who are on a razor-thin budget may not. People who want to do a to-the-letter perfect restoration probably will. When I did mine, I found it easier (and cheaper) to just use the cord I already had. The rubber grips very tightly around the windshield, and I don't see it as a problem since these cars are, generally speaking, garage beauties that are not daily drivers.
@@mikehoroho8453 Well, i will be driving mine! I'm going to skip the sealant
Nice work and great tutorial.
Well done Elin, looks good, love the way that trim goes in! Wish my Stag one was like that, they have a stainless trim in 2 parts that even professional windscreen fitters can’t manage in the UK. I made a special too, and managed to fit the rubber to the screen, then the trim to the rubber- took me 4 hours and very sore hands though! After that the whole lot popped into the car using string in about 5 minutes flat, I was so pleased!
Back in 1990 when I did my first TR6 screen with my father, they used to sell a little wheeled tool that you pressed into the groove and wheeled the trim flat as you went round, rather than hammering it. It was quite good once you got the hang of it and made the trim lie nice and flat. Not sure you can even get one nowadays. Not a very difficult job, but tricky and frustrating. No idea how you manage it alone!
Yes, used those on some windshields that had a rubber round locking trim instead of the chrome trim. I used in on the first chrome trim I installed and it worked, but it took too long. Then I tried just pushing it in, and I found that it actually needs just a little help with the rubber mallet and no need of special tools.
You do great work
Nice job; you definitely earned your money.
Good job!
Hi Elin, well thanks to you and your wonderful videos I have just purchased my own rusty beauty, in fact its so rusty its hard to recognise it as a 1964 Austin Healy 3000, lets get crack-a-lacking.
Wonderful! Good luck!
Thx Elin
Just about to tackle this on my Scimitar Coupe, and of course the lip is fiberglass so not as rigid as a steel one, which might be worse, or might deform a little in a helpful way. I plan to warm the seal before fitting it, it does seem rather hard. I wonder if WD40 is a better lubricant, or would it make my hands too slippery? Wish me luck!
Nice job but I’m sure when I did my MGBGT I fitted the rubber gasket to the car first then fitted the glass inside the gasket last was an easy job, is there a specific reason you do it your way because I’ve got a new screen to fit on my Vitesse! Would very much appreciated your answer?
The most important thing when starting working on a windscreen is NOT to say "let's get crack-a-lacking" !
Excellent- and he didn’t say it either!
Haha
On a classic Mini, not the new BMW one, its the opposite, fit the rubber to the opening then fit the screen. don't use rope or wire as it will destroy the rubber. There are two tools available for fitting the plastic locking trim, the wheeled one is better and not too expensive.
Would soaking the gasket in very warm (but not boiling) water have helped?
I never tried. People said it helps. I am afraid that when the gasket is too soft it would stretch and become too long. It’s just a guess.
Great detailed video!! What gauge wire did you use? Looks like maybe 12 or 10
Yeah, I think it was 10 gauge
Some useless info: We all know how well a Volkswagen Beetle's doors seal. You have to open a window slightly otherwise its nearly impossible to close the doors. One guy tried to close the door without opening a window and the front screen popped out!
You think that was difficult, try putting an inch thick train windscreen in.
Next time use blue masking tape. It doesn't leave residue.
Overly hard rubber products throughout the whole British car hobby is a really big problem.
Also, that chrome/plastic trim from Moss Is very poor quality. I've put that same thing on my front and rear Mini windscreens, but with about 1.5 - 2 years, it fades out to a dull no chrome grey. The original lasted 20 years!