You know what looking back I believe that could be the answer to a smoother process. It didn't cross my mind when I was actually working on it but if that's the case that honestly makes this job a whole lot easier.
@@trevorjohnson1602 That's awesome! Thanks for the update and that's going to make everything a whole lot easier. Hopefully this alternator will last another 100k miles but if I have to do it again I'm definitely removing that stud.
Very helpful video. Tight space. I also took apart the black bracket with the blue dot on it that was on the stud that came out with the 7mm socket. A phillps head screwdriver can take the one screw out and the bracket comes off the stud a whole lot easier.
That stud sticking out at the bottom left of the alternator if you put a 7mm socket on it you can unscrew it and makes it so much easier to get the alternator out. I watched your video last night while changing mine. Thank you for the help.
You're absolutely right about the stud. Someone else commented the same thing and said that it worked for them I just wish I thought about it when I was doing it haha. Glad you were able to change yours out.
Thank you for this video T. Saulsberry. It was very helpful replacing mine yesterday along with the tips in the comment section. I picked up a new AC Delco (Denso) unit from Summit Racing for $287 P/N ADO-23480515, 150A, made in Japan. I had most of the symptoms listed, including a faint groaning sound while accelerating & decelerating. I struggled with the P/S pump & bracket for a while during the reinstall (like 3x), but only because I was getting impatient. There is a P/S bolt that is slightly longer that should be noted during removal. Another tip might be to make sure you have something to retrieve bolts that drop in to the tray below the engine. I spent at least 30+ minutes trying to find those with a flexible magnetic claw pickup tool. I moved by car to start working on it at 11am and took it for a test drive at 6pm. This includes several mental & physical breaks. Those that say they can do it in 45 minutes would be best case scenario. I'm definitely worst case scenario. I've had my '13 stealth blue coupe for about 9 years and it's stock. This was my first time messing with LS motor, so I'm curious what the dealership would have charged.
I have not decided yet. I ordered a new Alternator from Rock Auto. I have five cars, so I pick my battles. Did the Alternator On my XK8 Coupe, Now it is saying battery not charging! But it is charging! These cars will make you crazy. Thanks again for the video. Ill play it for my mechanic. Stay well!
I just changed my battery and alternator today. Went with Costco Interstate AGM H6 and Rockauto Denso 180A (#2101224). When you changed your alternator and started the car, what was your voltage at? Mine Is at 14.6 at idle and 15 while driving. Is this normal in the beginning? If I remember right, my original voltage was always at 14-14.5.
Service power steering and service charging system warnings came up. I checked the voltage with the car running and it was reading in the 11 volt range so I came to the conclusion the alternator went out. After putting the new one on everything went back to normal.
Mine is also on its way out. How many hours is this job, do you think? Labor time. That thing is shoe horned in there! Nice video! Now I know I need to pay someone. Nice job my man!
It honestly didn't take too long and with the comments from others on here about better ways to remove certain bolts it's a pretty simple job. Whether you decide to do it yourself or use a shop good luck on getting it replaced! 🙂
At Idle Voltage dropping to 12.6. Voltage should be 14.0. Many error codes. Check Suspension, check stabilitrac, Traction off. Ect. Those were some of my symptoms.
@@richardgautier959Same here, except mine dropped all the way to 9 out of the blue. Barely got the dang thing home…. Let me know if you’ve figured this out…
@@reganwarren8858 It solved the voltage issue. Oddly, I had the ABS module, Alternator and now the Yaw sensor all fail at once. Makes me wonder if the weak alternator may have contributed to the other failures. Replaced the ABS module and alternator the same week. Only the Yaw sensor to go....
I think mine is on its way out.... Couldn't you have used an external torx socket to remove that stud?
You know what looking back I believe that could be the answer to a smoother process. It didn't cross my mind when I was actually working on it but if that's the case that honestly makes this job a whole lot easier.
@@bulletthead1 update you can complete this task by removing the stud with a 7mm socket. had it out in about a hour at a casual pace.
@@trevorjohnson1602 That's awesome! Thanks for the update and that's going to make everything a whole lot easier. Hopefully this alternator will last another 100k miles but if I have to do it again I'm definitely removing that stud.
@@trevorjohnson1602 Did you need a Torx socket or a regular 7mm socket to get that stud out?
@@TopFlightWR looks like i used a 7mm socket probably 12 point. But I’m sure you could use either one
Very helpful video. Tight space. I also took apart the black bracket with the blue dot on it that was on the stud that came out with the 7mm socket. A phillps head screwdriver can take the one screw out and the bracket comes off the stud a whole lot easier.
@@abronzefbird Hey I'm glad it helped and thanks for the extra tips that will help a lot!
That stud sticking out at the bottom left of the alternator if you put a 7mm socket on it you can unscrew it and makes it so much easier to get the alternator out. I watched your video last night while changing mine. Thank you for the help.
You're absolutely right about the stud. Someone else commented the same thing and said that it worked for them I just wish I thought about it when I was doing it haha. Glad you were able to change yours out.
@@bulletthead1 man I only attempted it because of you. It was definitely a job but your video helped a ton thanks man.
Thank you for this video T. Saulsberry. It was very helpful replacing mine yesterday along with the tips in the comment section. I picked up a new AC Delco (Denso) unit from Summit Racing for $287 P/N ADO-23480515, 150A, made in Japan. I had most of the symptoms listed, including a faint groaning sound while accelerating & decelerating. I struggled with the P/S pump & bracket for a while during the reinstall (like 3x), but only because I was getting impatient. There is a P/S bolt that is slightly longer that should be noted during removal. Another tip might be to make sure you have something to retrieve bolts that drop in to the tray below the engine. I spent at least 30+ minutes trying to find those with a flexible magnetic claw pickup tool. I moved by car to start working on it at 11am and took it for a test drive at 6pm. This includes several mental & physical breaks. Those that say they can do it in 45 minutes would be best case scenario. I'm definitely worst case scenario. I've had my '13 stealth blue coupe for about 9 years and it's stock. This was my first time messing with LS motor, so I'm curious what the dealership would have charged.
I have not decided yet. I ordered a new Alternator from Rock Auto. I have five cars, so I pick my battles. Did the Alternator On my XK8 Coupe, Now it is saying battery not charging! But it is charging! These cars will make you crazy. Thanks again for the video. Ill play it for my mechanic. Stay well!
Thanks you described it like it is, very articulate. I ordered my ALT 350AMP will be installing it next week.
Glad it helped some!
This video is a lifesaver. Thanks for posting!
You're welcome I hope it helps some!
It helped a lot. Was really handy having a reference for the bolts.
Nice detailed video, just changed mine out.
Thanks, hope it helped some!
Is this the process on a 6.2 liter ? I just don’t understand why people can’t specify engine size
I just changed my battery and alternator today. Went with Costco Interstate AGM H6 and Rockauto Denso 180A (#2101224). When you changed your alternator and started the car, what was your voltage at? Mine Is at 14.6 at idle and 15 while driving. Is this normal in the beginning? If I remember right, my original voltage was always at 14-14.5.
I honestly don't remember as it's been awhile but checking the forums it seems 15 volts is in the normal range according to some.
What were the symptoms?
Service power steering and service charging system warnings came up. I checked the voltage with the car running and it was reading in the 11 volt range so I came to the conclusion the alternator went out. After putting the new one on everything went back to normal.
@@bulletthead1 cool cool, this your car?
@@jpatrick260 Yep!
@@bulletthead1 post that content! It’s not that many V2’s on here. I look for ctsv vids every day 😂
Mine is also on its way out. How many hours is this job, do you think? Labor time. That thing is shoe horned in there! Nice video! Now I know I need to pay someone. Nice job my man!
It honestly didn't take too long and with the comments from others on here about better ways to remove certain bolts it's a pretty simple job. Whether you decide to do it yourself or use a shop good luck on getting it replaced! 🙂
At Idle Voltage dropping to 12.6. Voltage should be 14.0. Many error codes. Check Suspension, check stabilitrac, Traction off. Ect. Those were some of my symptoms.
My exact symptoms. Mine is actually dropping all the way to 11.5. Did a new alternator resolve your problems?
@@richardgautier959Same here, except mine dropped all the way to 9 out of the blue. Barely got the dang thing home…. Let me know if you’ve figured this out…
@@reganwarren8858 It solved the voltage issue. Oddly, I had the ABS module, Alternator and now the Yaw sensor all fail at once. Makes me wonder if the weak alternator may have contributed to the other failures. Replaced the ABS module and alternator the same week. Only the Yaw sensor to go....
¡Muy inteligente!
Wow!