Thank you!! Because of this video i took down the nasty drop ceiling in the kitchen including the bulkhead which wasn't housing anything. I've setup a 20 inches wide drop ceiling, with wood like yours, to house dryer vent hose and ac duct. Love my new concrete ceiling with knocked down texture!
Good stuff. Thanks for sharing. I have installed drywall ceilings, drop ceilings, and even the snap in stuff. However, this seems like a great simple option. Results can also be controlled by the amount of attention to detail you want to put into it.
Awesome! Getting ready to convert a basement into a studio apartment and we have zero experience. I think we can totally do this. Thanks for the video and the inspiration!
Looks awesome! I've been doing our whole basement similarly, but slightly different - using 4'x8' sheets of the Home Depot beadboard. I didn't design it to allow for sliding panels, and I wish I had. I actually have one room in the basement with plumbing in it that I am doing just that, the same way you are, but just in one spot. Great vid!
I ripped out the drop ceiling in the downstairs and was looking for ideas on the project, this was perfect, Only change I'm making is a spray foam between the rafters between 1-2" for a little sound and thermal protection and added support. 2x3's on end is perfect I was thinking 2x2 but 2x3 is better. I'm going to look up prices now. Thanks you.
Did something similar in my house. Old house built in 1910 or so (not historically at all) the ceiling tiles were all falling and ceiling was uneven. So we framed it similar and dropped it to even the ceiling out and put drywall up. So amazing! Looks really nice too. We just stomped the ceiling and threw a couple coats of paint.
It was certainly cheaper, but there are some drawbacks. It's not possible to completely remove the "tiles" from the ceiling without strategically removing a piece of wood or two. Also you have to be sure to paint or seal the wood ( an extra step for a coat of poly, but still extra work). Overall though in this space it was a positive choice. Probably and extra day or so of work in setting up and and extra day for painting and such. Time vs cost is probably a wash. But I definitely think it's a big win in the aesthetics category.
@@caseywillms1653 you can still unscrew some of it and shuffle though? I am doing something similar, only I am going to notch a T into a 2x3. I don’t want to give up any height if I don’t have to.
@@redsoxwinagain2007 each row has enough space so that panels can lift and stack on top of each other. If I want to completely remove panels, a piece of the wood would have to be taken down.
Why didn’t you just put Sheetrock up on the rafters? You would have only needed 5/8 of an inch? You lost the height of the 2x3 and the 1x4. The tiles are the expensive part but you still could have just dropped the ceiling about 2 inches and used the sheet rock panels or even better the 2’ by 4’ plastic prismatic panels and you could light behind them or not and they are very thin and can be slid to the side much more easily than the Sheetrock panels.
I did this to allow easy access to the joist spaces and ceiling area for repairs, new runs of wiring, plumbing, and everything else that I don't want to ha e to patch the ceiling to get access to it. I have 8' ceilings down there by design, so an extra 2" wasn't too much of a sacrifice. I would have used traditional drop ceiling of it was more cost effective. This split the difference and gave me the access I wanted, and kept the. Out down, not to mention that since this is an older house allowed me to help level and straiten out the ceilings where I otherwise would not have been exactly strait.
I don't have a link, but I just got them at home depot. They are coated for exterior use because there were none available in that size in regular construction type. Check in the exterior screw section.
2 years in, no bowing, and everything still lies flat. As for keeping the surface flat, there was some minor adjustments, but not so many that made it cumbersome.
All panels can be lifted up / Over each other in line so there's access to all the ceiling areas. So while you can't completely remove the tiles, it's very easy to open up a few at a time for access to whatever needs to be done above the ceiling. As for replacing a tile if needed, the end pieces (ones that are not visible from the floor easily) are only screwed in and are removable, and can allow for the end tile (and by extension all the tiles in the row) to be removed if necessary.
@@caseywillms1653 yes I did the same thing but I used dummy braces in between. I had my runners from 4 feet apart tge width of the basement, then used 1x3s as fake divider every tile. The tiles were 4x4 foam insulation board, which i painted. You put them in on a angle and you can remove them if needed. They are also light weight. The braces you just add a metal bracket to your 1x3 braces then hang on the runners just like the tiles
@@caseywillms1653 also curious to see the finished product. I did something similar in my basement with 2x2 strapping the joists and secured beadboard to the 2x2s but it doesn’t look as clean as this
Thank you!! Because of this video i took down the nasty drop ceiling in the kitchen including the bulkhead which wasn't housing anything. I've setup a 20 inches wide drop ceiling, with wood like yours, to house dryer vent hose and ac duct. Love my new concrete ceiling with knocked down texture!
Good stuff. Thanks for sharing. I have installed drywall ceilings, drop ceilings, and even the snap in stuff. However, this seems like a great simple option. Results can also be controlled by the amount of attention to detail you want to put into it.
Awesome! Getting ready to convert a basement into a studio apartment and we have zero experience. I think we can totally do this. Thanks for the video and the inspiration!
If you do it, let me know, I'd love to see your results
Fabulous idea! Thanks for sharing.
Clever idea! I like it. Might do that in my downstairs too!
Looks awesome! I've been doing our whole basement similarly, but slightly different - using 4'x8' sheets of the Home Depot beadboard. I didn't design it to allow for sliding panels, and I wish I had. I actually have one room in the basement with plumbing in it that I am doing just that, the same way you are, but just in one spot. Great vid!
I ripped out the drop ceiling in the downstairs and was looking for ideas on the project, this was perfect, Only change I'm making is a spray foam between the rafters between 1-2" for a little sound and thermal protection and added support. 2x3's on end is perfect I was thinking 2x2 but 2x3 is better. I'm going to look up prices now. Thanks you.
Spray foam sounds like a great way to keep the sound down, and provide some insulation to the floor above.
Thanks for sharing your video. Great video! Please advise how to fasten 2x3 stud to the ceiling joist? Thanks
Did something similar in my house. Old house built in 1910 or so (not historically at all) the ceiling tiles were all falling and ceiling was uneven. So we framed it similar and dropped it to even the ceiling out and put drywall up. So amazing! Looks really nice too. We just stomped the ceiling and threw a couple coats of paint.
Wow I’ll probably do this on mine also. Thanks. Great video
Great job and good ideas
great idea - would love to see the finish product...
Good Job!!!!!!
duct tape the open ends of the drywall to keep dust dwon if you need to move them in future
A sealing primer can do the same roll it on or can spray
Outstanding! We are contemplating what type of ceiling we should do and this looks like a great idea! What type of nailer are you using?
Are you planning on adding a video when you finish? Would love to see what it looks like when the whole basement is done.
Absolutely. Next video will be working with the stairs. More to come as we get to other milestones
good idea
I dig the idea for the ceiling, wish I saw your vid before I spent $1000 at home depot on suspended ceiling supplies...🤦
It was certainly cheaper, but there are some drawbacks. It's not possible to completely remove the "tiles" from the ceiling without strategically removing a piece of wood or two. Also you have to be sure to paint or seal the wood ( an extra step for a coat of poly, but still extra work). Overall though in this space it was a positive choice. Probably and extra day or so of work in setting up and and extra day for painting and such. Time vs cost is probably a wash. But I definitely think it's a big win in the aesthetics category.
@@caseywillms1653 you can still unscrew some of it and shuffle though? I am doing something similar, only I am going to notch a T into a 2x3. I don’t want to give up any height if I don’t have to.
@@redsoxwinagain2007 each row has enough space so that panels can lift and stack on top of each other. If I want to completely remove panels, a piece of the wood would have to be taken down.
Hey, hope is well. Great job, planning on doing my basement. Just wondering how you mounted the 2x3 on the joist
That looks awesome! Did you stain or paint the wood?
Where’s the update on how it turned out this looks cool
can you give us an update on how it looks, please
Looks great. What is the size of nail you used to fasten bandsaw pine to 2x3?
2" finishing nails.
Great idea, we will do it like that too. That bandsaw pine what size is it that you are using?
1X4
Seems like alot more labor then drop cieling. What happens when the boards start warping and your panels dont sit flat in the opening
Why didn’t you just put Sheetrock up on the rafters? You would have only needed 5/8 of an inch? You lost the height of the 2x3 and the 1x4. The tiles are the expensive part but you still could have just dropped the ceiling about 2 inches and used the sheet rock panels or even better the 2’ by 4’ plastic prismatic panels and you could light behind them or not and they are very thin and can be slid to the side much more easily than the Sheetrock panels.
I did this to allow easy access to the joist spaces and ceiling area for repairs, new runs of wiring, plumbing, and everything else that I don't want to ha e to patch the ceiling to get access to it. I have 8' ceilings down there by design, so an extra 2" wasn't too much of a sacrifice. I would have used traditional drop ceiling of it was more cost effective. This split the difference and gave me the access I wanted, and kept the. Out down, not to mention that since this is an older house allowed me to help level and straiten out the ceilings where I otherwise would not have been exactly strait.
Sorry if this is mentioned in the video, but what thickness drywall did you use?
1/2"
How did you finish ceiling drywall squares? what did you use to cover edges?
Primer and paint ceiling white. Including around the sides.
please advise how to fasten 2x4 joist to the ceiling joist?
They are 2x3 boards on edge, pre drilled and secured with 4" construction screws
😊🎉👌🏽👍🏽
The power of a man, he can make sugar out of sh*t
Thanks. We try :)
Can you please put a link or a picture for the 4" construction screws you used to secure 2x3 to joists? TIA
I don't have a link, but I just got them at home depot. They are coated for exterior use because there were none available in that size in regular construction type. Check in the exterior screw section.
Got it. Thank you
Did you attach the 2x3s to the floor joists?
Yes, on end, drilling and screwing in with notching and shimming to make sure it was all strait.
It appears that you put a single wood screw through the 2x3 into the joist did you pre-drill? Why not 'toe screw' them?
Yes, pre drilled. No particular reason. Just found it was easier for the install and lining everything up
what is the spacing on centerbetween 2x3 studs for 2x4" panel please? thanks
With enough space in between so it doesnt get stuck 26"
@@caseywillms1653 thanks
What did you use to mount the 2x3s to the floor joists and how has it held up thus far?
Used 4 inch screws, and has held up great. no problems.
@@caseywillms1653 thank you sir. You just saved me a bunch of time and money.
What is the size of the bandsaw pine 2x3 also?
1x4
I would at least prime the wood strips before nailing them up and then do touch ups and final coats...
could have done that, wanted the natural wood. Coated with a clear poly, definitely needs to have some sort of coating.
Here's a photo of the finished product.
photos.app.goo.gl/ctqYzhAgRTqDUdMu8
Floor joist are seldom flat across cause there crowned . I dont see how the entire grid is flat without shimmin everywhere?
2 years in, no bowing, and everything still lies flat. As for keeping the surface flat, there was some minor adjustments, but not so many that made it cumbersome.
Yeah but pnce it's done you can't replace a tile, you have to remove wood
All panels can be lifted up / Over each other in line so there's access to all the ceiling areas. So while you can't completely remove the tiles, it's very easy to open up a few at a time for access to whatever needs to be done above the ceiling. As for replacing a tile if needed, the end pieces (ones that are not visible from the floor easily) are only screwed in and are removable, and can allow for the end tile (and by extension all the tiles in the row) to be removed if necessary.
@@caseywillms1653 yes I did the same thing but I used dummy braces in between. I had my runners from 4 feet apart tge width of the basement, then used 1x3s as fake divider every tile. The tiles were 4x4 foam insulation board, which i painted. You put them in on a angle and you can remove them if needed. They are also light weight. The braces you just add a metal bracket to your 1x3 braces then hang on the runners just like the tiles
Why not show the finished product
I guess I should..... Ill have to clean up the office and do that.
@@caseywillms1653 also curious to see the finished product. I did something similar in my basement with 2x2 strapping the joists and secured beadboard to the 2x2s but it doesn’t look as clean as this