Great close up video. Kudos on installing the head without the use of a rubber band to hold the push-rods into the head. I note that this engine has an RH4 cylinder head. The head must have been replaced some time in the past. 1974 850s came with the RH10 head, which had tapered intake ports. Good tip to notch the exhaust valve cover gaskets. I also like to install copper flat washers under the lower nuts on the exhaust valve covers. That prevents any oil from oozing out between the valve covers and the studs.
This is one of the best videos on restoring the Norton Commando, I especially like the sharp close-up shots, the technical details and the voice over is very informative, good work you two!
Sealing the two head studs and cutting the notches in the rocker cover gaskets were nice touches. 1) Do you use modern fully synthetic engine and transmission oils? If so, what multigrades? 2) Where are the waisted head bolts available?
@@daveinwla6360 The motor oil we use in all of our motorcycles is Mobil One V-Twin 20w-50 and it's used in the motor and primary as far as the transmission we use only GL-4 either in std gear oil or synthetic. Amsoil makes a very nice Synthetic GL-4 75w-90. It's very important to use gear oil that's safe for brass as our transmissions have lots of brass bushings in them GL-4 is safe for brass synchronizers so it's safe for bushings Never use GL-5. It's corrosive to brass and not safe to use, period!
@@daveinwla6360 The waisted head bolt kit is available from CNW (Colorado Norton Works) the kit also comes with three studs we don't use because the threads in our heads aren't bad yet and to use them the three studs that are threaded in the head would require Helicoiled to a different thread pitch. So those parts are saved for later time if required.
I wish I had this video as a reference when I rebuilt the upper end of my 1971 Commando 10 years ago! It is the most comprehensive mc engine rebuild video I have seen. Great job, you made me a subscriber.
Thanks for the video. Ill be referring to it shortly when I do my own rebuild. Is there a reason why the barrel and cylinder head cant be installed while the engine is on the bench and then dropped into the bike? I would think it would be easier, no?
Well that depends on how much help you have, and keep in mind that motor is very heavy and the motor mounts move around so we find it's way easier the way we done it in this video. Thanks for the great comment,
Question: what is the name of the work shop manual you used on the 1974 norton commando project, mine isn't as detailed as yours....by the way you guys are great keep up the good work I have learned so much from you both. Thank you
Thanks for the awesome comment, we have three manuals that we use, #1 Chilton's Repair and tune-up guide Norton 750 & 850, #2 Clymer 750 & 850 all years service - repair - performance, #3 Haynes Norton Commando owners workshop manual all years, hope this helps,
Why dont you use the pushrod alignment tool, it makes installation easy and you dont have to mess with a wire and a flashlight, it takes about 10 seconds ? D.A.
Well someone makes a pushrod alignment tool for the BSA A7 / A10 but there is no pushrod alignment tool made for Norton twins that I know of or ever heard of and if there is it's news to me. We also installed the head the exact same way it shows in the shop manual. But, even if there was a special tool I probably wouldn't buy one because it's just a really simple task of just bumping a pushrod left or right and most times only one or two need to be nudged into place. But always all 4 need to be verified that the pushrods are all in the correct location.
Ace video's
The Norton is Magnificent 👍
Very fun to watch you work, nothing like doing the work yourself!
Thanks
Greetings from Blighty... Its lovely to see you lovingly restoring our old British Bikes.. Thank you..
Great close up video. Kudos on installing the head without the use of a rubber band to hold the push-rods into the head. I note that this engine has an RH4 cylinder head. The head must have been replaced some time in the past. 1974 850s came with the RH10 head, which had tapered intake ports. Good tip to notch the exhaust valve cover gaskets. I also like to install copper flat washers under the lower nuts on the exhaust valve covers. That prevents any oil from oozing out between the valve covers and the studs.
This is one of the best videos on restoring the Norton Commando, I especially like the sharp close-up shots, the technical details and the voice over is very informative, good work you two!
Thank you very much for your great comments,
Sealing the two head studs and cutting the notches in the rocker cover gaskets were nice touches.
1) Do you use modern fully synthetic engine and transmission oils? If so, what multigrades?
2) Where are the waisted head bolts available?
@@daveinwla6360 The motor oil we use in all of our motorcycles is Mobil One V-Twin
20w-50 and it's used in the motor and primary as far as the
transmission we use only GL-4 either in std gear oil or synthetic.
Amsoil makes a very nice Synthetic GL-4 75w-90. It's very important to
use gear oil that's safe for brass as our transmissions have lots of
brass bushings in them GL-4 is safe for brass synchronizers so it's
safe for bushings
Never use GL-5. It's corrosive to brass and not safe to use, period!
@@daveinwla6360 The waisted head bolt kit is available from CNW (Colorado Norton
Works) the kit also comes with three studs we don't use because the
threads in our heads aren't bad yet and to use them the three studs
that are threaded in the head would require Helicoiled to a different
thread pitch. So those parts are saved for later time if required.
@@jessesvintagegarage765 - Have you decided against the synthetic 10W-50 and 10W-60 multigrades, or are you not tickling the tiger on that? :-)
I wish I had this video as a reference when I rebuilt the upper end of my 1971 Commando 10 years ago! It is the most comprehensive mc engine rebuild video I have seen. Great job, you made me a subscriber.
Awesome and thanks for your great comments and glad you enjoyed.
awesome bike. nice job buddy
Thanks,
Thanks for the video. Ill be referring to it shortly when I do my own rebuild. Is there a reason why the barrel and cylinder head cant be installed while the engine is on the bench and then dropped into the bike? I would think it would be easier, no?
Well that depends on how much help you have, and keep in mind that motor is very heavy and the motor mounts move around so we find it's way easier the way we done it in this video. Thanks for the great comment,
Question: what is the name of the work shop manual you used on the 1974 norton commando project, mine isn't as detailed as yours....by the way you guys are great keep up the good work I have learned so much from you both. Thank you
Thanks for the awesome comment, we have three manuals that we use, #1 Chilton's Repair and tune-up guide Norton 750 & 850, #2 Clymer 750 & 850 all years service - repair - performance, #3 Haynes Norton Commando owners workshop manual all years, hope this helps,
Thank you for getting back to me , i will add them to my collection.
Why dont you use the pushrod alignment tool, it makes installation easy and you dont have to mess with a wire and a flashlight, it takes about 10 seconds ? D.A.
Well someone makes a pushrod alignment tool for the BSA A7 / A10 but there is no pushrod alignment tool made for Norton twins that I know of or ever heard of and if there is it's news to me. We also installed the head the exact same way it shows in the shop manual. But, even if there was a special tool I probably wouldn't buy one because it's just a really simple task of just bumping a pushrod left or right and most times only one or two need to be nudged into place. But always all 4 need to be verified that the pushrods are all in the correct location.
Talk louder here can barely hear this video!