Jeep Cherokee XJ Build - DIY 4.5” Suspension Lift kit Installation
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มิ.ย. 2024
- Hi yall, In this video I’m going to be installing a 4 1/2 inch Rubicon express super flex short arm lift kit. I’m super excited because its going to transform this jeep from project to budget ROCKLANDER BUILD. Stay tuned because l will also be installing a crossover steering kit, setting up the front alignment, JKS front swaybar links, and finally set up the front and rear pinion angles for minimal driveshaft vibrations. It’s a long video but it’s full of information and im sure you will find it useful on your next build. Thanks for watching🍻
Support ATEM OFFROAD here: Atemoffroad.com
Toe Alignment tool plates: amzn.to/3ub7XuA
Klein Level and angle finder: amzn.to/49eJHqk
Front Rubicon Express Super Flex Lift:
4.5” Coils: amzn.to/43F6Crr
Coil isolators: amzn.to/3pWuBEP
Bump stops: amzn.to/44TV8S2
Shocks: amzn.to/46YAhic
Upper control arms: amzn.to/3OnUKWu
Lower control arms: amzn.to/3Q38nvr
Trackbar bracket: amzn.to/43CpsiP
Trackbar brace: amzn.to/3OlKyxz
Trackbar: amzn.to/3KbnX4e
Steering Stabilizer: amzn.to/3O6Urhq
Stabilizer clamp: amzn.to/450dOQ5
JKS Sway Bar Links: amzn.to/3OqQBBa
Brake line extensions: amzn.to/3OpLLUw
Crossover steering: amzn.to/43zev1v
5/8” drill bit: amzn.to/476vICp
1/2” drill bit: amzn.to/3rUKyvB
Rear Rubicon Express Super Flex Lift:
3.5” Spring Pack: amzn.to/3DqYJve
1-2” shackles: amzn.to/3NVU9cU
Ubolt kit
Dana35: amzn.to/3Q2OHry
Dana 44: amzn.to/43BGIVl
Chrysler 8.25: amzn.to/43BGIVl
Rear shocks: amzn.to/46YAhic
Brake line extension: www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUOMZS4/...
Brake fluid: amzn.to/46XXr8p
Brake bleed kit: amzn.to/3O7qf5w
Transfer case drop: amzn.to/470wlxd
Having trouble deciding on great quality , yet affordable winch?
Look no further OPENROAD is where to go.
openroad4wd.com/collections/h...
More content!
DIY Overland kitchen Tailgate table
• DIY Jeep Wrangler Tj ...
DIY Bolt On Hi-Lift J-Mount Install
• Video
DIY Front Stubby off-road bumper
• Jeep Wrangler TJ - DIY...
DIY Body Lift
• Jeep Wrangler TJ - DIY...
Jeep front and rear shock replacement
• DIY How To Replace All...
Sway bar quick disconnects
• $20 DIY Jeep Sway Bar ...
Overland Tool mounting Solutions
• DIY Overland Trail Car...
Jeep Tailgate table build
• DIY Jeep Wrangler TJ T...
DIY Jeep Rock sliders
• DIY Jeep Wrangler Rock...
How To Install cb radio in Jeep Wrangler
• How To Properly Instal...
32” tires I’m running
• 32” Tires On My Jeep W...
DIY On board air compressor build
• Jeep Wrangler Tj | Lj ...
Fuel and water cell mounting Solutions
• DIY Overland Jeep Wran...
DIY Rear Trail Cargo Rack build
• Jeep Wrangler- DIY Ove...
Hi jack hood mounts install
• Jeep Wrangler How To I...
Wireless winch controls
• How To Install An Opti...
DIY Jeep E Fan build
• DIY JEEP WRANGLER Elec...
DISCLAIMER
Due to the factors out of control by ATEM OFFROAD, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information ATEM OFFROAD assumes no liability or responsibility for property damages or injuries incurred as a result of any information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk . ATEM OFFROAD recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen in this video, any injury damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools equipment or from the information contained in this video
Is the sole responsibility of the user and not ATEM OFFROAD. Be Safe
This video and description contains affiliate links which means if you click on one of these product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I just found your channel because I am in the process of buying one of these vehicles. Am I correct in understanding that this is a bolt in setup with no cutting or welding? If so, that is awesome! And if I did this to my vehicle, would I need to get the Front and Rear both? If I'm reading your parts list correctly, the front is 4.5" and the rear is 3.5"? Thank's for any and all help and information.
No cutting or welding necessary! The only cutting and drilling was to make the sway bar link hanger mounts (optional) and the trans drop optional as well, but I did leave a link where you can buy the trans drop kit. All the links are in the description box that make up the entire kit (front and rear) sold on Amazon.com. I pieced mine together, sometimes it’s what we have to do! Everything is bolt on ready no modifications or welding necessary. Except that if you decided to do the crossover steer you would have to drill out the knuckles and pitman arm as shown, so have a 5/8” and 1/2” metal drill bit around for that and the track bar mounts. I will put links for the bits on there as well. The front coils are 4.5” lift front and the spring pack makes up the 3.5” in the rear the spring shackles are what you bolt to the springs to get the additional 1” so your 4.5” lift in the rear! Hope this helps buddy ask away and welcome to the channel🍻
This has to be the most comprehensive video I have seen to accomplish this process... Bravo... clap clap clap
Thanks for watching i appreciate it. 🍻🍻
This is the best lift kit install video i have ever seen. Iv never seen anyone go into so much detail in every step. Awesome video!
Thank you i appreciate it, welcome to the channel. 🍻
I got an 89 XJ and been looking to do something similar. This has to be one of the most informative how to videos I have seen for the suspension. I like that you linked every product in the description. Excellent work! Looking forward to more videos.
Thank you 🙏 I see a lot of people asking about incomplete kits and if they should buy them and I always say yes and no. No because they are not complete. Yes if you are wailling to buy the rest of the kit. The 500 dollar kits no matter what brand just doesn’t make the cut and your jeep will have many problems after installation. That’s why I put the list together in the description so you guys can see what a complete lift kit looks like. Welcome to the channel and thanks for watching. 🍻cheers on the XJ
Outstanding content man. Well done and very much appreciated. 👍🏽
Thank you i appreciate it 🍻
Well what can I say, you presented this lift kit beautifully, you would make a excellent collage teacher, no getting cranky or swearing. Just being the man you are.nice change, I owned an 99 model xj and now I'm looking at buying my second one , I like how you took your time with all the measurements, very thorough. I'm a mechanic here in Aussie and I injoyed your presentation nice one...
Thank you I really appreciate it, I’m actually looking to get another xj myself still saving though but we will see. I’m glad your found the video useful. 🍻
Hi There Justin
It is Really a Pleasure to Accompany The Assembly of The New Suspension, Mostly For Your Knowledge.
In Addition to The Increased Off Road Capacity, The "JEEPÃO" Turned Out Awesome !
Congrats !
Look Forward To See The Rig Gaining Terrain !
Best Regards 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽✌🏽
Ed
São Paulo, SP
Pindorama
Thanks for watching 🍻
Looks really nice!
Thank you 🍻
Cool lift not too high or low perfect!
Sweet! Looking forward to more content!
Working on the next one right now 🍻
A lot of work going into this it's going to be awesome when it's done 👍👍👍👍👍
I have a few more things I want to do with it , but I don’t plan on doing much more. I plan on using it . Thanks for watching 🍻
Dang dude this thing is getting sweeter and sweeter 👍🏽💪🏽💪🏽😎💯
Thanks bro, it’s definitely coming along more TJ content is coming I promise. Thanks for stopping by in this one 🍻
Damm looks nice & you know what you’re doing
Thank you 🍻
Sweeeet ride.. i have this color scheme on my 99 xj 2wd lifted.
Very cool , thanks for watching 🍻
Such a great video of the install. Your XJ is really looking awesome. I'm torn between getting an XJ again (it will be my forth one) or a TJ....🤔.
🇦🇺🚙😎
Thank you i appreciate, those are very hard to choose from, for myself I’d go with the TJ but the Xj is a great option if your pocket arnt lined with cash. 🤣🍻
Great video and you are very well spoken . I have a 03 TJ with a 3.5 Rubican express lift kit and their upper and lower control arms . I also have a 1'' body lift and 1'' motor mount lift . I do not use a transfer case drop and I run a Barnes skid plate .I use Adams driveshafts front and rear. It's a 4.0 with a 42RLE transmission and the transfer case is cable shifted . I have watched some of your videos before and I decided to subscribe to your channel . Take care and keep up the great work. P.S I have a lot more done to my TJ but this gives you an idea what has been done to it . I also have a JK that's mildly built .
Sounds like you have a couple solid setup jeeps, very cool. I hope to get back to building my red TJ this winter, something similar to your build sheet. We shall see. Thank you for watching i appreciate it. 🍻
Great video
Welcome to the channel, thanks for watching 🍻
Very very good video
Thank you 🍻
excellent video
jeep is looking great
Thanks bro 🍻
The cheap XJ is really coming along!
Thanks, a few more things and I need to use it haha 🍻
I like that jeep
We love it 🍻
Just had my full second day of adding a rusty 4.5 lift to my 2000 asked Jay quite a bit of work for one person might I say but I’m managing could use a little advice with the pinion as I have wedges for the rear end, and I’ve never installed with the leafs? To get the crossmember and the floor link and the front shocks track bar and frame mount all installed just installed the rear leaf and loosely. Attach the rear U-boats for the afternoon and calling it a day. It’s 830.
Yeah definitely work involved that’s for sure, for the wedges those go between the perch and the spring pack, those do essentially what the drop kit does and helps decrease the driveshaft angle in relation to the pinion. You’ll want to install those and check your angles , all your looking for in the rear is that your pinion angle is parallel the the transfer case angle that’s if your using a stock driveshaft, switching to a double Cardan driveshaft the setup is slightly different.
Couldn't help notice that the rear shackles are almost straight up and down. This might give you a very bouncy ride in the rear of the jeep. I did the DIY rear shackle relocation brackets to correct this problem on my 95 XJ. The rear shackles should be at a 45 degree angle for the best ride in the rear. Gave me a better ride and an extra 1-2" of lift in the rear. I also used the 2" lift shackles, same as you used. Another mod I did was to remove the lower shock mounts, modify them so when re welded they no longer are below the axle. This requires a hole saw of the dame diameter as the axle tube. I think I have a video on my channel showing this. Hope this helps. God bless, stay well.
You mention good points here! right now they sit at about 25 -30 degrees and if I lower to the next hole on the shackles I’d get closer to the 45. Initially I did but the jeep looked raked in the rear, and I knew it would change my rear pinion angle a bit more than i wanted so I just put it back where it’s at now . Eventually when the springs start to flatten out (REs do) I will move it down to the next hole and that should move the angle closer to the optimal 45. Also loading the jeep with gear may help this temporarily! I will keep an eye on this , I’ve already took the jeep offroad and it did surprisingly well both on and off road. I’ll check out your YT video on the topic soon thanks for watching 🍻
Bar pin eliminators on the shocks,much easier install/removal ,better articulation.
I’m going to do this on our tjs. It’s a good upgrade 🍻
I really appreciate this video, and the torque specs! what is the ft lb conversion to ugga-duggas?
Haha thank you , the conversion is Hella Tight 💪🏼😅
Great video, I bought the same lift 4-5 years ago, but no isolater spring bushings included, wondering if I should buy and install? Never been to happy with the ride. Recently added drop down brackets for a temporary relief/fix before going long arm $$$. Definitely curious about those isolater bushings. Any comments appreciated.
Do you not have them at all? Absolutely buy them , it’s 100 percent better for the small additional cost. Altogether I thought the suspension was going to feel stiff , I was actually impressed of the ride quality compared to both of my tjs. Maybe it’s the seats in the Xj but in many was is more comfortable than the tjs with dual rate coils.
Super
Sharp rig
So how did the 4 degree difference work out with the rear? NVM. I see that you still have slip yoke.
Nice vid ! , are you sure you dont have vibrations with rear? i thought if not doing syi then the pinion suppose to be parallel to trans yoke etc? maybe few degrees up to lube u joints . What am i missing? and also the leaf brackets in back , aernt those suppose to be at like 45 degrees instead of straight up n down ? anyways im still learning , i have a 91 xj and want to put a 3.5 lift soon with 31 tires . what gear setup do you have ?
I’d say for every inch of lift is about 1/4” drop so I’m a bit shy but it will work. that’s correct about pinion being parallel to trans yoke. But that’s why I put the 1” drop in place to off set that. If the lift was much higher and the driveshaft angle was more increased I would be forced to sye but that’s not the case here as the driveshaft is longer compared to a TJ. Can this cause premature failure yes of course, but it works without vibrations No vibrations in the rear. No need for sye at the moment. I may upgrade but we will see, it’s recommended if you are off-roading more than usual. I would check all 4 yoke nuts those can come loose and cause vibrations as well as bent driveshafts failing u joints, and bad motor/ trans mounts. Springs should piviot towards the back of the jeep it should allow the shackles to deflect in that motion as well under compression. The gear setup on this jeep is 3:55 the axles came out of an automatic. It’s a manual 4.0. If you have the 4.0 the stock 3.07 should be just fine with 31s
Hey what did you use to paint your frame and undercarriage?
Thanks for the video! It’s been a huge help as I’ve gone through the process of lifting my XJ as well. Would you be able to tell me what your caster angle ended up being after you installed your lift?
Pinion angle always supersedes caster, I set pinion angle at 1.5 to 0 degrees, pinion will always point downward if any numerical value other than zero. Keep in mind lift kit MFGs design your kit for a specific tire size , you should be running the tire the kit specs are for? What kit did you install?
I followed your lead and bought pretty much all Rubicon Express components, but the springs are 4.5” Rusty’s. I’m planning on running 31” tires. I followed your method of measuring pinion angle and the difference between my pinion and drive shaft was 2.6* and caster came in at 9*.
@@jacobnicholas6440 awesome RE is pretty good on a budget, can’t go wrong with the rusty springs! You will be fine with 2.6* on the pinion. 31” tires with room to move to 32” is great for the start. With a larger tire caster become less relevant but it’s still relatively important. The question is how did you get 9? For this measurement you want the jeep on perfectly flat ground. Between 5-8 is what you want to go for. Did you install a trans drop kit? And how much drop if so? You can shorten the upper control arm lengths, if need be but I recommend pushing out the front axle with the lowers . Pushing that axle out front helps caster. A few other tips I’d watch your air pressure on those tires, and How is the jeep driving? what did you go with for the steering setup?
I measured the caster from the top of my upper ball joint. The Jeep is currently still in my garage as I’m just finishing up replacing all of the front end suspension components. It’s on jack stands probably a couple inches taller than ride height currently so Caster could be slightly off. I ended up going with the trail forged crossover steering kit. Should be able to go on my first test drive tomorrow.
I forgot to add that yes, I did also put a trans case drop on it of 1.25” as well.
Do you have any still shot pictures of the track bar looking in from the driver's Tire? The Rubicon Express track bar mount that I purchased seems to be awfully close to everything on the axle and could cause an issue with bottoming out
There maybe some drop on that mount, is this the one that supports the crossmember? What size springs are you using?
what size bump stops did you use? and backspacing?
I'm curious what was front driveshaft angle after you did transfer drop.. kinda confused. you had like a 1° angle before transfer drop. ,what is it now
Yes install the drop first and then setup the pinions front and rear. For every 4” of lift you’ll want at least 1” of drop unless you install an SYE and double cardan driveshaft. Technically You have 0-3 degrees of room to play. 3 being better than 0. On a 4 link suspension at 3 degrees u joint bearings can perform as bearings and self lubricate. At zero the trunions in the bearings can become stagnant causing premature failure.
are those 3.5 leafs and then a lift shackle so many people complain that the re leafs give way more lift then advertised
Yes 3.5 + 1-2” adjustment on the shackles to get the 4.5” lift. Some say they are quick to sag and some say they give more lift I’ve heard it all too. The shackles will help with the difference overtime. I set mine up in the lower setting if they sag I can move them up one hole. 🍻
That is a super clean early model XJ. Are those 33s? Did you have to remove the fender lining? Seems like you didn’t have to trim anything.
Those are 32s and no trimming or cutting. It was a special request, you Will need to set it up with the proper bump stops to prevent rubbing. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Sweet. Yeah I had a 93 with a 3” lift and 33s years ago that I chopped up. Thinking about getting another one and doing the full 4.5” deal with 33s and would prefer to leave the fenders in tact. Thanks.
@@KeatonDee awesomeness, I’m actually looking for another XJ myself. Good luck they are hard to find uncut. 🍻
could you possibly lift my xj😅 a shop nearby lifted my other xj and they did a 3 out of 5 star job.
Were your upper control arms a lot wider than the bushes on the axle? Ive got a fair gap on mine! Wondering if i should use spacers or something.
No spacers as you tighten the bolt they will shape to that width. I once thought the same thing to but that’s how they are. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD thanks man. Quality video!
You should measure your toe in at the end of your tire height
The way I measure is consistent but I get what your saying 🍻
Cool video. I don't think that your prybar is special though. I have 2 just like that & 1 that is a little longer & beefier.
I never said it was rare, it’s special to me in particular for how useful the tool has been over the many years I’ve had it. I one day I’ll show you my biggest and longest one, it’s super beefier and massive. 🤣 welcome to the channel and thanks for watching 🍻
Great video! Are you interested in Jeep lighting stuff sponsorship?
Thank you and yes we’d love to test out some led headlight’s you’d recommend for our Jeep tj, we just bought the SUPAREE smoked turn signal led light kit for our red tj featuring those ON A VIDEO soon. Email: Atemoffroad@gmail.com 🍻
You want the output shaft of the front diff inline with the drive shaft 😂😂
Yeah that’s tru , 0-3 degrees is optimal. I personally like 1-2 degrees that way the bearings will act as bearings , the grease and the needle bearings in the trunnions can become stagnant and cause grooves leading to premature failure due to lack of lubrication. You need axial motion for lubrication .
@ATEMOFFROAD I stay within 1.5 gives the grease a chance to cool down when not loaded once loaded the grease is pushed in. More inline with the drive shaft equals less heat build up , more free the ujoints more lubricant is spread once they heat up it acts like a heat freezer so to speak it will hold more heat and there for degrade the grease .
How much would you charge to do my Jeep? 1988 Jeep Cherokee
So you have no camber angle issues using the transfer case drop kit you made ? I have Rubicon Express 3.50” lift kit having issues with front camber angle set. Front end alinement the shop got 1.5 degrees which is not right. Yes I have upper adjustable control arms, angle set without drop transfer case for 2001 jeep XJ. Rear I have 8 degree angle plates front drive shaft in rear. New 31 x 10.50 x 15” it’s like driving on ice due to camber angle. Can’t do transfer case drop each side has 1 bolt and 1 stud which is to short for drop pucks. Everything is Rubicon Express super Ride with upper control adjustable arms, adjustable track bar, drop bracket for track bar, new 3.5-4” shocks. Frustrating when I’m told to get adjustable lower control arms. I don’t have them so I can pitch the drive shaft right to transfer case front set. Can you advise me
Your xj has no camber adjustment. Camber isn't adjustable on many newer front-wheel-drive cars post 1980s an out-of-spec measurement usually indicates bent (Cs) or worn part(s) (ball joints) on these vehicles. , for the drop it’s about 1/4” for every 1” of lift. You have to remove the original studs and the bolts to install the kit. Listed in the description box as a link. Check it out. I have laid everything out as far as pinion angles and how to adjust toe. Seems like you have the original Ylink steering setup. Your average alignment shop will not know how to adjust that now that it’s lifted. You will need to take your jeep to a jeep specialist. He will recommend parts from there. Or simple duplicate the setup I have done in this video. All the links are there including detailed information on how to install everything set by step. All the UCA and LCA setting are mentioned in the video to get an optimal pinion angle.
that Dana 35 rear is definitely a weak point, any plan to upgrade it?
Yes, not sure with what, but first upgrading the red tj with a D44 coming soon. And as close to super dana 30 as I can lol 🍻
What Light bar mount do you have?
This light came with a mount, amzn.to/47IZehQ
What size tire are you running?
Those are 32s 🍻
Great video. Do you want to sell that XJ??
🙏 thank you , this one is already sold, it went back to the original owner. Just picked up a 90 so more content on that coming soon. 🍻
Man..this is way too much for me to do. Please tell me you're in Sacramento & i can pay you to do it correctly on my 99 xj.
We’re not in Sac, but Oakdale, California
@ATEMOFFROAD that's only an hour and a half! Not bad at all.
What roof rack ?
Budget roof rack build from ladder rack th-cam.com/video/g8P2b3TzQIQ/w-d-xo.html
How's the Caster?
I always set pinion angle over caster. Just be sure to use the recommended tire size or larger for lift height. 31s or larger for 4.5” lift.
Did you check it to see what it ended up being? Lots of steering issues with lifted XJ's is because of way out of spec caster. I ran into this exact issue with a 4.5 lift. No return to center after turning, a bit darty on the highway. Just harder to drive. With my pinion angle pretty much how you have yours set my caster was at 2.8 and factory spec calls for between 6 and 9 degrees. I ended up having to clock my C hubs to get within spec. And what a night and day difference.
@@rustylindamood4898 what steering link do you have? The idea is to push that axle out front further so that you can find a sweet spot for caster and pinion angle, you can lengthen your lowers and shorten your upper CAs. To remedy that. Clocking Cs is definitely one way to do this, but We are getting into much taller lifts for that IMO, if your building a jeep for best performance on and off-road then I totally understand. I know the “diy alignment” is not laser accurate, but it’s close and I feel when driving the jeep it drives straight, steering is tight and there is no shake or DW. And I know the settings I provided are not going to be for every jeep, but it’s a good spot to start at. At this point you have already clocked the ace and that fixed it, but that may not always be what’s causing the darting on the highway. Loose ball joints , Y link incorrectly set up. Bad and/or poor track bar setup. Loose steer box.
@@rustylindamood4898 clocking the Cs is the only Real way to get perfect caster. Any taller than 4.5” its the only way to go for best on road performance. but after driving this jeep I don’t feel the need to clock Cs. Jeep tops out at 70 mph
When all was said and done I upgraded to crossover steering and installed a control are drop kit. I also swapped out the LP front axle to a HP front axle to see if it would help. I never experienced any vibrations from the front drive shaft and I'm running SYE in the rear with a Tom woods Shaft. I drive the jeep to the trails so Highway feel especially steering was top priority for this rig. Love your build I was just wondering what you ended up with for caster since we are using just about identical parts except for the front control arm drop.
whae color is that xj?
Champagne 🥂
Gives you all the torque specs, still uses an impact. Lol
Haha 😂 yeah but I check with torque wrench. Lol
Lol so after you torqued a fastener that was spec'd for 80 lb-ft to 300 lb-ft with your impact, as long as the torque wrench clicks that means its just right 😂
@@ryantogo8359 it’s rated at 230and there’s no way it torqued to 300, 80-90 max, I can’t even get that thing to torque lug nuts over 90 😅
Torque to spec or cross threaded….tight is tight.
Like your X I don't wanna listen to your useless bla bla cause I wanted to see testing the circuit.
What??