Nice one, interesting for me as I've not seen up close the inner workings of a hub motor, always good to have a better understanding of the thing your riding about on. Neat job too.
@E-bikeguy, just had to do this same repair. Love the detail and explanation of what you're doing. For anyone else watching this and reading the comments, when you're joining wires that are going to carry a lot of current and are fairly large it's going to be very hard to get a solder connection that has equivalent current carrying capacity to the unbroken wire. The wire is a heat sink and, using a small hand-held soldering iron like most people have, you're going to have a hard time getting the entire interface hot enough for the solder to permeate the entire wire and avoid a cold solder joint. In cases like this where there's relatively high voltage and current and a lot of vibration, a mechanical interface is always recommended. If you're going to be doing this work, get yourself some high quality copper butt connectors and a proper ratcheting crimper with the proper dies designed for unshielded connectors and sized to the gauge of wire you're crimping. If you do solder it, make sure the wires are completely permeated with solder and your overlap between the two wires is at least 3X the diameter and preferably 5X the diameter. You have to remember that the max current in the entire system is limited by the weakest link. More often than I can count the fix for a wide array of performance and reliability problems people have brought to me have ended up being cold solder joints in high current wires.
One other consideration for those who see this and are trying to do it themselves, when sealing these with silicone you can't use normal household silicone. They are acetoxy-cure and not only do they produce acetic acid (which can corrode aluminum) they also require moisture from the surrounding air to cure. There is the distinct possibility that the silicone never fully cures in the air-tight spaces of the sealing interface. Instead, make sure you use a non-acetoxy RTV silicone, like the ones you would use to make gaskets for automotive work. Follow the instructions and those should cure and hold up really well without the potential to corrode the aluminum.
We missed the bit where you invite someone over that you don't like and have them lower the stator into the hub keeping it straight with their fingers😂.....damn those things slam home from the magnets. Your enemy will only have thumbs left..
Awesome video E-bike guy aka TLill . You are the man 100 gran. I have been busy but I am a happy camper and you do great work. Money well spent. I will let you know once it has been installed and I take my first ride. Any e-bike problem or question that you may have, I recommend lTLill to the rescue.
Another great video to save and keep! I happen to be running on the last set of hall sensor wires so I might need ya video later! Appreciate you bro! Keep um coming
Thanks for the videos this is awesome to see cable repair. I have a question about my build. I have 2 48v 1500w direct drive motors running off 2 52v 20Ah batteries and the controllers are 48v 35A. I am maxing out at 37/38 mph. Shouldn’t I be able to go faster? Also the pick up is weak.
Oh ya I just saw that. Ok thanks I remember seeing a video you made about that mod I’ll go back and watch it again. Is another option to buy a more expensive controller should it not help to much?
What problem would you recommend looking for if I were to be cheap and specifically buy a wheel that’s listed as “as is/parts”? I can’t afford a new wheel but will definitely buy a broken one that can be fixed without crazy tools. That wire problem is something I already have experience with and fixed. But is there anything else?
You did an excellent job on that engine. How can I contact you? I have the same engine and I would like you to do the same job. I live in the Bronx, New York.
Hey question, I keep getting a phase current surge protect warning in fardriver after running the bike for like 20-30 seconds. I did open it up and add statorade, was fine until 12km into a commute power kept cutting out with that error. Inside my motor, some phase wire housing cracked, so i taped that up with 130c rated rubber electrical tape. I'm going to open her up again and take a look but what do you think it could be? it did get hot in there, smelled...charred. coils look fine nothing black, but the zip tie holding the phase wires inside the motor melted, which means it exceeded 80c. Thoughts?
@@E-bikeguy Yes I believe that is the issue. I did a continuity test on the phase wires, there's a close circuit. I gotta open her up and check the phase wires again. I'll let you know how it goes!
@@E-bikeguy Hey I fixed my issue. my yellow phase wire was hitting the motor casing, sheering off the insulation causing a short. This was my fault as I didn't secure the phase wires to the bore of the motor when I did some maintenance on it. All good now and wow does it ever run better with statorade!
They are selling out of ebike tires. I might need to fix mine. It was used in the winter back makes noises now. Do you have a business website or email Facebook page or anything when it does stop I can send it in.
do you ever spoke your own wheels? always wondered how hard that would be. I usually kind of flick the spokes and listen to the pitch of the sound they make to tell if they are tight enough or too loose. i guess there's a torque tool to do that more scientifically 😏
That is for tightening only, it won’t remove a freewheel. They do make several tools for the different freewheel. This one needs a hook and pin spanner wrench similar to the tool needed to change a grinder wheel. But if the holes are mangled it’s going to need the method similar to this one.
Chain whips are useless anyway for this purpose...tightening a freewheel happens when you pedal lol. Just hand tight and use a pedal or two and it is tight anf is only gonna get tighter as you pedal.
@@E-bikeguy right off the top i could think of a few. Glue for hub motor magnets and get fardriver to do a plug and play kit and have someone that speaks English program their app. Probably just ban sabvotons lol.
I shut it off at Roach clip 10 minutes in. This video is the guy saying what he's going to do 10 times but he doesn't show himself doing anything. I don't think he's doing the work, he just talks and sucks his teeth a lot. Lame as hell.
Love your content brother! Id love to chat/message with you at some point, im looking to do a kit conversion and you mad knowledgeable and seem like a hella stand up guy! How can i message you?
Nice one, interesting for me as I've not seen up close the inner workings of a hub motor, always good to have a better understanding of the thing your riding about on.
Neat job too.
Thank you, just like you said, I try to do videos like this so people like your self get better understanding on theses hub motor
@E-bikeguy, just had to do this same repair. Love the detail and explanation of what you're doing.
For anyone else watching this and reading the comments, when you're joining wires that are going to carry a lot of current and are fairly large it's going to be very hard to get a solder connection that has equivalent current carrying capacity to the unbroken wire. The wire is a heat sink and, using a small hand-held soldering iron like most people have, you're going to have a hard time getting the entire interface hot enough for the solder to permeate the entire wire and avoid a cold solder joint.
In cases like this where there's relatively high voltage and current and a lot of vibration, a mechanical interface is always recommended. If you're going to be doing this work, get yourself some high quality copper butt connectors and a proper ratcheting crimper with the proper dies designed for unshielded connectors and sized to the gauge of wire you're crimping.
If you do solder it, make sure the wires are completely permeated with solder and your overlap between the two wires is at least 3X the diameter and preferably 5X the diameter. You have to remember that the max current in the entire system is limited by the weakest link. More often than I can count the fix for a wide array of performance and reliability problems people have brought to me have ended up being cold solder joints in high current wires.
One other consideration for those who see this and are trying to do it themselves, when sealing these with silicone you can't use normal household silicone. They are acetoxy-cure and not only do they produce acetic acid (which can corrode aluminum) they also require moisture from the surrounding air to cure. There is the distinct possibility that the silicone never fully cures in the air-tight spaces of the sealing interface.
Instead, make sure you use a non-acetoxy RTV silicone, like the ones you would use to make gaskets for automotive work. Follow the instructions and those should cure and hold up really well without the potential to corrode the aluminum.
We missed the bit where you invite someone over that you don't like and have them lower the stator into the hub keeping it straight with their fingers😂.....damn those things slam home from the magnets. Your enemy will only have thumbs left..
🤣🤣🤣💯😎
9:35 I love how you said "roach clip" instead of "alligator clip" ..lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣 I just saw what you said.
I'm actually rewinding hubs like these so you can repair cooked motors, and change their properties. Like torque, speed...
Oh wow, I wish I can do that. Some good skills 👌
@@E-bikeguyI only need to know what specs you want run it at and I will tune it for you
How can I contact you for a build? I’m in Australia. No one can do these sort of things for me here.
Thanks
@MalcolmKennard-cr6wc email me at theebikeguy08@gmail.com
9:35 “Roach Clip” , I got one in my hand rn too 🤣🤣🔋👍
🤣🤣🤣🤣💯👊
Awesome video E-bike guy aka TLill . You are the man 100 gran. I have been busy but I am a happy camper and you do great work. Money well spent. I will let you know once it has been installed and I take my first ride. Any e-bike problem or question that you may have, I recommend lTLill to the rescue.
Thank you so much, really if it wasn't for you, most of my builds would not be possible 💯💪
Another great video to save and keep! I happen to be running on the last set of hall sensor wires so I might need ya video later! Appreciate you bro! Keep um coming
Thank you, I definitely will.
Nice video brother, I'm in the UK using a similar motor as a generator in my wind turbine :)
Wow, nice!!!!
@@E-bikeguy cheers , It's full of rust at the moment which is why I was watching your video. Cheers for the information 👍👍👍
Sweet repair job on that hub motor bro. Very informative. Another happy subscriber, Keep up the good work my brother.👍🏾👊🏾🤛🏾💯
Thank you 💯 definitely want to get some information about ebiks out there
Thanks for the videos this is awesome to see cable repair. I have a question about my build. I have 2 48v 1500w direct drive motors running off 2 52v 20Ah batteries and the controllers are 48v 35A. I am maxing out at 37/38 mph. Shouldn’t I be able to go faster? Also the pick up is weak.
Yes I did email you, have you received it yet?
Oh ya I just saw that. Ok thanks I remember seeing a video you made about that mod I’ll go back and watch it again. Is another option to buy a more expensive controller should it not help to much?
@danielpercival882 the sabvoton 7245 is a Good option
Best video on TH-cam
What problem would you recommend looking for if I were to be cheap and specifically buy a wheel that’s listed as “as is/parts”?
I can’t afford a new wheel but will definitely buy a broken one that can be fixed without crazy tools. That wire problem is something I already have experience with and fixed. But is there anything else?
Like turn the axle make sure it's not locked up or have any noise
Great video. Thanks for the info. 🫵🥇🫵
Great video 👍, there is a tool for taking off free wheel/cassette as I use one but you got it off anyway take care buddy ✌
Oh ok I couldn't find one even for my freewheel.
You did an excellent job on that engine. How can I contact you? I have the same engine and I would like you to do the same job. I live in the Bronx, New York.
Email me at theebikeguy08@gmail.com
Hey question, I keep getting a phase current surge protect warning in fardriver after running the bike for like 20-30 seconds. I did open it up and add statorade, was fine until 12km into a commute power kept cutting out with that error. Inside my motor, some phase wire housing cracked, so i taped that up with 130c rated rubber electrical tape. I'm going to open her up again and take a look but what do you think it could be? it did get hot in there, smelled...charred. coils look fine nothing black, but the zip tie holding the phase wires inside the motor melted, which means it exceeded 80c. Thoughts?
Probably doing the same as my son's 5k motor but your situation looks like the motor overheated causing the phase wires to short
@@E-bikeguy Yes I believe that is the issue. I did a continuity test on the phase wires, there's a close circuit. I gotta open her up and check the phase wires again. I'll let you know how it goes!
@@E-bikeguy Hey I fixed my issue. my yellow phase wire was hitting the motor casing, sheering off the insulation causing a short. This was my fault as I didn't secure the phase wires to the bore of the motor when I did some maintenance on it. All good now and wow does it ever run better with statorade!
Yh bro keep doin these vidz 👌🏾. Be gd to see other ways of doing these type of things
Thank you bro 💯 trying have us to save some money lol
@@E-bikeguy that what is all about bro saving the coins n getting the most for your money . Keep up da gd work 👌🏾
Hey my hub happen the same think how much will it cost me for you to repair my hub motor is a 3000 hun motor
have you guys got wiring diagrammes for the crystalyte motor? I want to rewind it. 51 poles.
@snorttroll4379 not me but I know a guy that can do it
They are selling out of ebike tires. I might need to fix mine. It was used in the winter back makes noises now. Do you have a business website or email Facebook page or anything when it does stop I can send it in.
Yes theebikeguy08@gmail.com
do you ever spoke your own wheels? always wondered how hard that would be. I usually kind of flick the spokes and listen to the pitch of the sound they make to tell if they are tight enough or too loose. i guess there's a torque tool to do that more scientifically 😏
Yeah I might have to, my rim is bent a Lil I let my buddy rode it and it came back bent
My scientific way is grabbing two crossing spokes and squeezing them together with my hand lol.
Will u do paid zoom teaching ?
I can.
@@E-bikeguy I have the cty2 , I want more range , speed n torque , n I want to build my own battery over buying
@obeii1805 ok I can help with that
They do make a tool idk the name of it but it's a chain link attached to a handle
That is for tightening only, it won’t remove a freewheel. They do make several tools for the different freewheel. This one needs a hook and pin spanner wrench similar to the tool needed to change a grinder wheel. But if the holes are mangled it’s going to need the method similar to this one.
Oh ok I have one but I it was to tighten it
Chain whips are useless anyway for this purpose...tightening a freewheel happens when you pedal lol. Just hand tight and use a pedal or two and it is tight anf is only gonna get tighter as you pedal.
Lol u had me rollin the minute I heard roach clip 😂🤫
🤣🤣🤣
Only cable I need how much cost
I'll have to get price from supplier
You've repaired nearly everything on an ebike. Next stop is flying to china and getting on the factory floor lol.
Give those guys some tips!
🤣🤣🤣🤣 right, have them build a awesome ebike
@@E-bikeguy right off the top i could think of a few. Glue for hub motor magnets and get fardriver to do a plug and play kit and have someone that speaks English program their app. Probably just ban sabvotons lol.
Neat upload cheers
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!
Yoooooo,thank you
No problem at all
I have taken freewheels off with just a hammer and the corner of a flat screw driver. Pain in the nutsack.
Oh yeah, now I use a air chisel
I hate them plastic spacers are the worse they will make your disc lose
You definitely right, I learned the hard way
@@E-bikeguy same here bro luckily I noticed it going through the outer casing and was like nah your going 😂
@@epowermaintenance5333 🤣🤣🤣
I shut it off at Roach clip 10 minutes in.
This video is the guy saying what he's going to do 10 times but he doesn't show himself doing anything.
I don't think he's doing the work, he just talks and sucks his teeth a lot.
Lame as hell.
Love your content brother!
Id love to chat/message with you at some point, im looking to do a kit conversion and you mad knowledgeable and seem like a hella stand up guy! How can i message you?
Email me at theebikeguy08@gmail.com
I found your Facebook
need to replace my motor hub wire. can you help? I can send it to you I can contact you via email so we can discuss it further there
Yes email me at theebikeguy08@gmail.com
Hey my hub happen the same think how much will it cost me for you to repair my hub motor is a 3000 hun motor