This is a great video. Using a cut away really helps people understand the concept. The people who criticize do not understand that this is a demonstration and not where you would drill in real life. I had to get my wife to drill some dyna bolts the other day as I am in a wheelchair and this would have been a great way to show her how it works.
Brilliant, I don't know how the almighty algorithm knows but I needed a video just like this, got to anchor some 2x4s into concrete and didn't really understand the different types of fixing. The expanding metal sleeve type are the most commonly sold and used in my part of the world but now I know how the other types work too, the capsule type I'd heard about but it's the first time I've seen it in action. So ignore the guy saying the test was useless, it wasn't meant to be some scientific comparison, it's really helpful to see how each type works.
Thanks man appreciate that comment. Yeah the purpose of the video is to demonstrate to the average diy person how these anchors work so you can see them in action. Obviously anyone with half a brain cell knows not to drill into the edge of a concrete block to secure anything down lol 😂
tHANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS EXCELLENT VIDEO. I first learned about chemical bolts at the huge caterpillar generator installation at a commercial broadcast radio transmitter site. That gennie clocked in at 15 tons and I thought... well.... they want to be sure it does not move ! I have used chem bolts many a time since and I can testify to their effectiveness. Your video shows thought, professionalism and great care taken in making it and I for one am most greatful. Showing this in cutaway form was a supurb idea. Thank you again.
I'm curious if the chemical corrodes any particular metal screw... over time. And, does the chemical break down over time? The glue in plywood older roof decking breaks down around 50 years, and the plies begin to separate.
With the 2 part chemical resin, you actually want to screw the stud into the hole so that it successfully encapsulated the thread. Pushing it in won't work as well. You also don't want to fill up the hole 100% as it needs to account for the volume of the thread. I typically go for 2/3 of the depth of the hole depending on the bolt diameter and that usually gives me a tiny bit of excess at the end, will save a fair bit of material and time removing excess in the long run, especially if doing lots of bolts! Great visual demonstrations
I didn’t watch the first version. But it must be very frustrating to lose all those views, likes and comments. I thought this was a a very good visual explanation of the various concrete fixings. I really enjoyed the added SFX and graphics highlights. It looks like you had a lot of fun putting the whole thing together. I like the drop in anchor, for some fixings, because it gives you a lot of control on the depth of the item being fixed. I’ve used the concrete bolt/screw for a lot of things and they are an amazing option. I’ve also used the Fischer capsule resin anchor which I also liked. If you buy the specific threaded rod from Fischer, it has a sharper point for crunching up the glass. They also do a setting tool for the SDS drill which makes setting the drop in anchor easier. One thing to mention is that some of these options have better corrosion resistance, which might be a factor for some use cases. For example you can get stainless steel drop-in anchors and use stainless steel threaded rod.
Hey, Thanks for the informative comment and positive feedback. Yeah taking the video down and re uploading it has impacted the video in a negative way In regards to click through rate and average view duration which means the algorithm will put the video out less, but I’d rather have less views and make sure the video is right.
I'm just here because all the talk about "fixins" reminds me of Eastbound and Down. I've also never heard fasteners referred to as fixings until now. Learned something new so, thank you.
Nice video. Be careful if the concrete is a little soft. This is particularly true going into brick. You may wind up with a hole that's larger than the bit, especially if using the SDS drill. For example, a 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) hole may become 9/32 inch (7.14375 mm) (1/32 inch too large). Depending on the anchor, this may or may not be a problem. There was also 1 type of anchor that wasn't used here. It uses a special tool to drive it and has and explosive cartridge in the tool that drives the anchor into the concrete when the tool is struck with a hammer. The time ratio here between the rotary hammer drill (SDS) and the hammer drill was about 1:2. However, the harder the material, the more this time ratio will increase and you'll wish you had the SDS drill.
Great video! Loved it. My favourite is them resin anchors. A bit pricy but in hollow brick walls using a mesh sleeve, they are very trustworthy. Subscribed from Australia!✊
Another point about hammer combi drill versus SDS: SDS will generally give you a cleaner, tighter-tolerance hole. Milwaukee and some others sell a small SDS drill which isn't hugely expensive and will drill up to at least 10mm holes, which is excellent for DIY and general maintenance applications.
I have used all these methods with the exception of the capsule, the only one I use now for the past 15 years are the Simpson titan hd's , these are the only one that do not come loose over time, I have used thousands of them with no complaints and no failures, I install gate operators for a living and we had a car hit one of the gates and the operator was mounted with ( 4 )1/2" x 4" titan hd anchors to a 2' x 2' x 2' 4500psi concrete pad and it actually picked the pad up out of the ground, bolts never snaped or loosened, this actually happens quit often, I guess people can't see a big ole gate closed sitting right in front of them.
The hex headed concrete bolt can be reused. After removing it, if you can feel the original thread in the hole, it can be wound in again. Very useful for cockups. Failing that, bore the hole out again and fit the next biggest bolt. Easy.
A very good demostrative experiment. but for accurate data and reliability i would like to see these anchors into action in controled materials. Cheers.
Good video. When drilling for an anchor in a thinner slab such as a basement or garage we always drill all the way through the bottom of the slab. If that Anchor is ever not used anymore, it can be tapped through the underside of the slab and the hole filled.
I like to use the Shield Anchors, despite what you say in your summary, If you loosen the bolt, then tap bolt to release the taper nut, then jiggle these, you can in fact get them out. Also you can easily use threaded studding (all thread US) in place of the bolt.
Very good video on a very misunderstood subject . A little trick to save money is to use 3/16 bit , 16 penny nails with plastic coated rebar wire . Excellent for temporary work and if you want add life or weather resistant use hot dipped galvanized. Pullout is extreme shear relatively good
I rely on chemical anchors when it absolutely has to stay secure. They are the most resistant to vibration, to corrosion, and to spallation. Being able to reliably anchor close to a concrete edge (because no lateral force is imposed upon the substrate) is a huge advantage. Also, in cold climates they exclude water that can freeze and break the concrete.
Excellent video! I have used about half these types of anchors for various applications. Two tips: 1) After drilling and cleaning the hole, I test with a pencil (etc.) to make sure it is indeed cleaned out of dust and is deep enough. 2) On the sleeve bolt (highlighted in yellow), take a moment and gently hand-tighten the nut to the bolt before driving. This will help ensure that the bolt does not just spin when you go to tighten it. This will save the hassle of extracting the fitting. (Ask me how I know!)
Great video, may I kindly suggest less is more when it comes to the sound effects and whatnot? Found it a little distracting personally. It's good to see people teaching how to actually clean a hole out properly. A lot of times people think it's over the top to blow out the dust and also use a little brush, but both actually do a different and important job. We did a lot of retro fixing reinforcement bar into concrete (1m long holes vertically) and the blowout process was painful as the dust can only come upwards which isn't as easy to deal with. (a) your face tends to be near the dust blowout, and that's a LOT of dust and you need to blow hard, and (b) it tends to fall back down. In the end I developed a process of using a powerful mains handheld vacuum with a 1m length of 8mm flexible hose, with the tip cut to an angle, then using an internal pipe-cleaner style brush on the end of a long dowel, then the dust blower, then repeat a few times. About 20 mins to clean each hole! But without that cleaning it simply wouldn't have been possible to fix in properly with resin....
I am impressed by how well you did the job of cleaning out the holes. From your claim to be "just a punter", I assume you are an amateur, and I am disappointed that no professional tradesman would have done such a good job.
I've got the D handle SDS rotary hammer, very similar to your model. It is soooooo much nicer than a hammer drill. It's so smooth, quiet, and it takes very little pressure.
I came up with this ideal after using similar epoxy for rebar into old concrete pad which I think it will last for decades. 1. Drill your hole, 2. Clean the dust out, 3. Add Quikrete FastSet Anchoring Epoxy with a silicone gun into the hole, 4. Using a hammer tap anchor sleeve\bolts in, 5. Excess epoxy will shoot out, 6. Wipe clean, 7. Add mount plate, 8. Tighten up the bolts, 9. Clean up more excess epoxy. Let epoxy cure.
Not only are the resins very strong, as you mentioned... but a good, construction-grade epoxy (for instance, Hilti's) is stronger than the concrete. I knew an engineer who would NEVER specify J-bolts because the cold working weakened the steel and it was easier and stronger to epoxy the studs in place.
I would like to see someone test these to failure. I would think the concrete bolts would outperform the anchors as they have more surface area in contact to disperse the load.
Are ones like sleeve anchors good for wet environments? I went with the blue primed tapcon bolt because it seemed the most water resistant, but I dont think they grip nearly as well. I like the idea of the resin ones tho, never seen em before
There are 2 kind of drop in anchors actually, the steel ones who you have to hammer down with said tools. And the brass colored ones which you can install by tightening the rod/bolt. they hold less in theory but don't require a special tool (or old drill bit or punch). Or you have a third type, brass colored one which can also be hammered.
1:27 - this only applies in soft materials...with proper full strength concrete, the combi drill just sits there making angry noise not finishing one hole in 2+ minutes, while a true hammer drill gets the job done under 15 seconds. if you're short on cash, get a corded one or rent if it financially makes sense, because when you need a hammer-drill, it's worth every penny.
yep. i used a hammer drill to drill holes for and drive in 3 3/16" x 4" concrete screws. took about a minute per hole to drill into 30 year old concrete house slab. next project i used an SDS max rotary hammer drill boring 1" core holes through a foot thick concrete wall in about a minute.
great video..esp 4 minutes and 30 seconds.....sleeve archer !!!!!!!!!!!!! which many safes use....tap down... reverse drill to expand anchor...mystery solved .. I did subscribe thank you
The most impressive thing in the video is the skill to be able to drill a partially opened hole on the side. Well done video
Thanks
Thought the same 😂 great video for beginners though - well done.
I saw that.
This is a great video. Using a cut away really helps people understand the concept. The people who criticize do not understand that this is a demonstration and not where you would drill in real life. I had to get my wife to drill some dyna bolts the other day as I am in a wheelchair and this would have been a great way to show her how it works.
Well said. Thanks for the comment. I'm glad the video is useful to some people :)
Brilliant, I don't know how the almighty algorithm knows but I needed a video just like this, got to anchor some 2x4s into concrete and didn't really understand the different types of fixing. The expanding metal sleeve type are the most commonly sold and used in my part of the world but now I know how the other types work too, the capsule type I'd heard about but it's the first time I've seen it in action. So ignore the guy saying the test was useless, it wasn't meant to be some scientific comparison, it's really helpful to see how each type works.
Thanks man appreciate that comment. Yeah the purpose of the video is to demonstrate to the average diy person how these anchors work so you can see them in action. Obviously anyone with half a brain cell knows not to drill into the edge of a concrete block to secure anything down lol 😂
The algorithm knows because of that brain implant you received. Of course, your memory of that operation was erased.
Very high quality video. Highly informative, well produced, and entertaining as well. Thank you!
Much appreciated!
tHANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS EXCELLENT VIDEO. I first learned about chemical bolts at the huge caterpillar generator installation at a commercial broadcast radio transmitter site. That gennie clocked in at 15 tons and I thought... well.... they want to be sure it does not move ! I have used chem bolts many a time since and I can testify to their effectiveness. Your video shows thought, professionalism and great care taken in making it and I for one am most greatful. Showing this in cutaway form was a supurb idea.
Thank you again.
I'm curious if the chemical corrodes any particular metal screw... over time. And, does the chemical break down over time? The glue in plywood older roof decking breaks down around 50 years, and the plies begin to separate.
Thanks for the comment
Brilliant video - medal well deserved. Now I understand how it all works. Thanks Mike. 🙂
Thanks for the kind words. Appreciate it.
In fact, looking at the other videos, I'm subbed. These are quality handyman videos. 👍
Awesome, thank you!
Fantastic video!!! Its the most informative by far! Thank you so much for the demonstration. I feel better now about what to do for my DIY project.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks
With the 2 part chemical resin, you actually want to screw the stud into the hole so that it successfully encapsulated the thread. Pushing it in won't work as well.
You also don't want to fill up the hole 100% as it needs to account for the volume of the thread. I typically go for 2/3 of the depth of the hole depending on the bolt diameter and that usually gives me a tiny bit of excess at the end, will save a fair bit of material and time removing excess in the long run, especially if doing lots of bolts! Great visual demonstrations
Yup that’s a good tip. Thanks for the info
first class production, great learnings, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
I didn’t watch the first version. But it must be very frustrating to lose all those views, likes and comments. I thought this was a a very good visual explanation of the various concrete fixings. I really enjoyed the added SFX and graphics highlights. It looks like you had a lot of fun putting the whole thing together. I like the drop in anchor, for some fixings, because it gives you a lot of control on the depth of the item being fixed. I’ve used the concrete bolt/screw for a lot of things and they are an amazing option. I’ve also used the Fischer capsule resin anchor which I also liked. If you buy the specific threaded rod from Fischer, it has a sharper point for crunching up the glass. They also do a setting tool for the SDS drill which makes setting the drop in anchor easier. One thing to mention is that some of these options have better corrosion resistance, which might be a factor for some use cases. For example you can get stainless steel drop-in anchors and use stainless steel threaded rod.
Hey, Thanks for the informative comment and positive feedback. Yeah taking the video down and re uploading it has impacted the video in a negative way In regards to click through rate and average view duration which means the algorithm will put the video out less, but I’d rather have less views and make sure the video is right.
briliant video really clear and simple to understand yet also detailed thankyou
Glad you liked it
This was nicely thought out. Great video!
Glad you liked it!
Excellent guide! I always wondered about these.
Nice animations and demonstrations! Thanks
Upvoted and subscribed! Priceless educational video!
Thanks 😊
I'm just here because all the talk about "fixins" reminds me of Eastbound and Down. I've also never heard fasteners referred to as fixings until now. Learned something new so, thank you.
I'm going with bacon.
All the fixins!
This was perfect timing for me, and you did great... thanks
Appreciate that. Thanks for the feedback.
Absolutely great demonstration video with a cross section view of each type of anchor/fixing.. thank you Sir 👌
No worries
Nice video.
Be careful if the concrete is a little soft. This is particularly true going into brick. You may wind up with a hole that's larger than the bit, especially if using the SDS drill. For example, a 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) hole may become 9/32 inch (7.14375 mm) (1/32 inch too large). Depending on the anchor, this may or may not be a problem. There was also 1 type of anchor that wasn't used here. It uses a special tool to drive it and has and explosive cartridge in the tool that drives the anchor into the concrete when the tool is struck with a hammer.
The time ratio here between the rotary hammer drill (SDS) and the hammer drill was about 1:2. However, the harder the material, the more this time ratio will increase and you'll wish you had the SDS drill.
Great video! Loved it. My favourite is them resin anchors. A bit pricy but in hollow brick walls using a mesh sleeve, they are very trustworthy. Subscribed from Australia!✊
Thanks
Another point about hammer combi drill versus SDS: SDS will generally give you a cleaner, tighter-tolerance hole. Milwaukee and some others sell a small SDS drill which isn't hugely expensive and will drill up to at least 10mm holes, which is excellent for DIY and general maintenance applications.
Great tip!
Great demonstration!!
thanks
❤ Great high Quality info, very helpful Many thanks 😊....
no worries
I have used all these methods with the exception of the capsule, the only one I use now for the past 15 years are the Simpson titan hd's , these are the only one that do not come loose over time, I have used thousands of them with no complaints and no failures, I install gate operators for a living and we had a car hit one of the gates and the operator was mounted with ( 4 )1/2" x 4" titan hd anchors to a 2' x 2' x 2' 4500psi concrete pad and it actually picked the pad up out of the ground, bolts never snaped or loosened, this actually happens quit often, I guess people can't see a big ole gate closed sitting right in front of them.
The hex headed concrete bolt can be reused. After removing it, if you can feel the original thread in the hole, it can be wound in again. Very useful for cockups. Failing that, bore the hole out again and fit the next biggest bolt. Easy.
A very good demostrative experiment. but for accurate data and reliability i would like to see these anchors into action in controled materials. Cheers.
Great work and helped me make a decision!
Thank you...great and very useful video (for me) 😅
Thanks for the comment
Good video. When drilling for an anchor in a thinner slab such as a basement or garage we always drill all the way through the bottom of the slab. If that Anchor is ever not used anymore, it can be tapped through the underside of the slab and the hole filled.
Good tip
I like to use the Shield Anchors, despite what you say in your summary, If you loosen the bolt, then tap bolt to release the taper nut, then jiggle these, you can in fact get them out. Also you can easily use threaded studding (all thread US) in place of the bolt.
good to know
Thenk you this was very interesting ,one small thing that is not concrete,excellent work
Thank you
Aerated oncrete blocks used here.
Very good video on a very misunderstood subject . A little trick to save money is to use 3/16 bit , 16 penny nails with plastic coated rebar wire . Excellent for temporary work and if you want add life or weather resistant use hot dipped galvanized. Pullout is extreme shear relatively good
Thanks for the info!
Brilliant I want to go and fix things to things that dont even need it now 😆
lol
Clean and informative!
Thanks
Perfect 👌🏽 thank you 🙏🏽
I use plastic anchors, lag screws and construction adhesive. Grabs tight and doesn’t let water get in to freeze and crack the concrete.
7:37 In order to use these chemical anchors, the drilling dust must not be removed. This is also stated on the exact packaging that you showed us.
He said exactly that in the video. You added no new information
@@woody1380 To be fair, it is particularly important for the resin fixings, much less of an issue for the others.
I rely on chemical anchors when it absolutely has to stay secure. They are the most resistant to vibration, to corrosion, and to spallation. Being able to reliably anchor close to a concrete edge (because no lateral force is imposed upon the substrate) is a huge advantage. Also, in cold climates they exclude water that can freeze and break the concrete.
good info thanks
If stopped watching the video, but I still hear the word "fixins'" in my head.
haha
Say I would like to hook a heavy pendant light fixture to the ceiling; which among them is the best?
Excellent video! I have used about half these types of anchors for various applications. Two tips: 1) After drilling and cleaning the hole, I test with a pencil (etc.) to make sure it is indeed cleaned out of dust and is deep enough. 2) On the sleeve bolt (highlighted in yellow), take a moment and gently hand-tighten the nut to the bolt before driving. This will help ensure that the bolt does not just spin when you go to tighten it. This will save the hassle of extracting the fitting. (Ask me how I know!)
Thanks for the advice
Great Video, thanks Mike.
My greatest challenge is drilling a hole in the ceiling with an SDS drill. Never seem to be able to get it straight down.
Yeah its tricky
Great video, may I kindly suggest less is more when it comes to the sound effects and whatnot? Found it a little distracting personally. It's good to see people teaching how to actually clean a hole out properly. A lot of times people think it's over the top to blow out the dust and also use a little brush, but both actually do a different and important job. We did a lot of retro fixing reinforcement bar into concrete (1m long holes vertically) and the blowout process was painful as the dust can only come upwards which isn't as easy to deal with. (a) your face tends to be near the dust blowout, and that's a LOT of dust and you need to blow hard, and (b) it tends to fall back down. In the end I developed a process of using a powerful mains handheld vacuum with a 1m length of 8mm flexible hose, with the tip cut to an angle, then using an internal pipe-cleaner style brush on the end of a long dowel, then the dust blower, then repeat a few times. About 20 mins to clean each hole! But without that cleaning it simply wouldn't have been possible to fix in properly with resin....
Yeah was not sure if the animation was taking away from the video or adding to the video.
I’ll take that feedback onboard and thanks for the tips
@@mikebolt9753 I'm no expert myself, just a punter :)
I am impressed by how well you did the job of cleaning out the holes. From your claim to be "just a punter", I assume you are an amateur, and I am disappointed that no professional tradesman would have done such a good job.
Nice video - Got yourself a subscriber. .
Thanks for subbing
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
I've got the D handle SDS rotary hammer, very similar to your model. It is soooooo much nicer than a hammer drill. It's so smooth, quiet, and it takes very little pressure.
i have used whats call a striking fastener very good & quick but not every one sells them
awesome video! great info
Thank you!
Very nice you explained is so well thank you!!!
You're very welcome!
I was about to start my video game section and saw this. Screw the video game, this video is more addicting.
Thanks
Thank you sir. A wonderful video
Glad you liked it
Great explanation! Thank you very much! 👍
your welcome
Expandable anchor with resin should work on sun dry adobe and/or clay baked bricks?
great vid, from austrlia
Good day there
Hang on, the sleeve anchor one, the bolt in it is not removable?
Thanks for the video!
Great video. Which option is the strongest?
resin I think
Great video ❤thanks
You’re welcome 😊
Sleeve anchor is my favourite
The block being shown here is aerated concrete, which is much trickier than ordinary dense concrete for securing a strong fixing.
4:50 my bold keeps rotating,seems not with the sleeve,why did it happen?
I came up with this ideal after using similar epoxy for rebar into old concrete pad which I think it will last for decades. 1. Drill your hole, 2. Clean the dust out, 3. Add Quikrete FastSet Anchoring Epoxy with a silicone gun into the hole, 4. Using a hammer tap anchor sleeve\bolts in, 5. Excess epoxy will shoot out, 6. Wipe clean, 7. Add mount plate, 8. Tighten up the bolts, 9. Clean up more excess epoxy. Let epoxy cure.
What is the type of concrete? It looks very different from one I'm used to drill to.
Not only are the resins very strong, as you mentioned... but a good, construction-grade epoxy (for instance, Hilti's) is stronger than the concrete. I knew an engineer who would NEVER specify J-bolts because the cold working weakened the steel and it was easier and stronger to epoxy the studs in place.
I like the drop in anchors because you can remove them if needed.
How so?
@@md4uh because the bolt just screws in and screws out. I didn't mean the anchor is removable. The bolt is.
Great job
Cheers
Used many lead machine screw anchors. The only down side is you need a setting tool but they work great on hollow cement blocks.
Yeah they are a great option.
I would like to see someone test these to failure. I would think the concrete bolts would outperform the anchors as they have more surface area in contact to disperse the load.
good idea
Are ones like sleeve anchors good for wet environments? I went with the blue primed tapcon bolt because it seemed the most water resistant, but I dont think they grip nearly as well. I like the idea of the resin ones tho, never seen em before
Yeah the sleeve anchors should be fine.
You can get shield anchors made from stainless steel, might be worth checking out.
Nice vid! :)
Thanks
There are 2 kind of drop in anchors actually, the steel ones who you have to hammer down with said tools. And the brass colored ones which you can install by tightening the rod/bolt. they hold less in theory but don't require a special tool (or old drill bit or punch). Or you have a third type, brass colored one which can also be hammered.
thanks for the info
Resin injection is the ONLY long term secure fastener, especially if some vibrations are involved, and/or a corrosive environment.
Last Option: I personally have not used this. Seems the strongest? Will definitely want to use it next time.
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Sleeve anchors just need to make sure you aren't fixing near the edge as they will break away the concrete
I was thinking this with all the options, how close to an edge/corner can they be used. I guess the packaging/website would say.
Top video!
thanks
Is it possible to combine 2 type of anchor fixing? For example, Resin Set with Sleeve Anchor, will this make the anchor extra strong?
Yeah I suppose you could use that method. Should work
Thank you Sir 🎉
Most welcome
how about weight? which one is the more heavy weight? suitable for hanging a punching bag in the gym (fully vertical).. something like that
I think the resin gives the strongest fixing. depends whether you want something you can remove down the line or not.
It would be great if you can test the strength for each.
1:27 - this only applies in soft materials...with proper full strength concrete, the combi drill just sits there making angry noise not finishing one hole in 2+ minutes, while a true hammer drill gets the job done under 15 seconds.
if you're short on cash, get a corded one or rent if it financially makes sense, because when you need a hammer-drill, it's worth every penny.
yep. i used a hammer drill to drill holes for and drive in 3 3/16" x 4" concrete screws. took about a minute per hole to drill into 30 year old concrete house slab. next project i used an SDS max rotary hammer drill boring 1" core holes through a foot thick concrete wall in about a minute.
I imagine an expandable anchor with resin would be a good combo.
Great video mate and very informative.
You missed those quick nails, eq. Tubular spring steel tubulas fixing nails, very strong also and you can drill hole trough wood and use those
lots of options
Just throw some resin in with the screw anchor and you got a really strong anchor
If one overtight x-bolts etc, then the concrete cracks over time.
Great
THANKS
You forgot to explain one fix n... the one used to hold the plastic view plate on
Thank you
You're welcome
I'm going to the hardware store here in the "States" and ask them where the concrete fix'ns are located.
lol
Thanks. That was a very informative video! 🙏
Thanks
Tips on how NOT to crack the concrete?
Questions you were always afraid to ask about " Fixins " . Also known as Anchor Bolts.
How are they on mashed tadders? Lol
Take one drink evert time he says "fixin". 😵💫
lol
Nice
Thanks
Why is important to clean a hole?
great video..esp 4 minutes and 30 seconds.....sleeve archer !!!!!!!!!!!!! which many safes use....tap down... reverse drill to expand anchor...mystery solved .. I did subscribe thank you
Hey what happened to the 1st video that you posted ? Good content tho
Changed a few mistakes. 95% is still the same
thx !
No problem!