How Do I Know if My Panel is 200 Amps? (What Makes a 200 Amp Panel 200 Amps)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- What part actually makes a 200-amp panel a 200-amp panel? With an almost infinite choice of panel types, ratings, sizes, and circuit quantity, we can lose track of what is all inside of a panel and how some of those ratings are achieved. In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin takes a look at and explains a few of the items that a panel is comprised of.
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Does the panel having a main breaker actually make it a particular size (say 200-amp)? Not necessarily. You can have a main breaker in the panel, or your panel can be an MLO (Main Lug Only), so the breaker by itself doesn’t define the panel rating. As a matter of fact, one of the panels Dustin uses in the video, you can actually remove the 200-amp breaker from the panel and put in a different size one (say, a 125-amp). That breaker is in there to provide overcurrent protection for the buss of the panel.
The bussing itself is actually what makes a 200-amp panel a 200-amp panel. The buss is the metal portion of the panel on the inside that “receives” and distributes what we put into it (electrically wise). This distribution takes place in the form of breakers that are either bolted to or snapped onto the buss. If you take a close look at the bussing, you will notice that the phases repeat themselves from the top to the bottom. So, in the case of a single-phase panel, circuits 1, 2, 5, 6, 9, 10, and so on are on the same A phase, while circuits 3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 12, etc. are on the same B phase. Same is true for a 3-phase panel, except in lieu of skipping one row, you skip two for the additional phase that is added. Circuits 1,2 are on A phase, 3,4 are on B phase, and 5,6 are on C phase, then we start over and repeat for all the spaces available.
All the busses are rated equally within the same panel. So, in the case of our 200-amp example A, B, and C phase busses are all rated at 200 amps. But something to remember is that we do not just ADD all of those together and get a 600-amp panel. The reason for this is that many times we will use multiple phases on a single piece of equipment to make it function. If we were to have a 2 pole 20-amp breaker, the piece of equipment wired to it would be able to utilize 20 amps on A phase and 20 amps on B phase. Same would be true for a 3-pole breaker.
For most panels, the interior buss assembly is made to be removable so you could replace it if necessary. In some instances, it is better to leave the existing enclosure in place (along with the associated wiring, conduit penetrations, grounding, etc.) and just replace the offending buss portion. Each manufacturer is different, but in the example Dustin uses, a screw can be simply removed holding the non-metallic backplate to the enclosure and the entire buss/backplate assembly can be slid upward and removed.
There are many other parts that make up an entire electrical panel. There are lugs, ground & neutral busses, dead fronts, and panel covers to name a few, but the buss is what gives a panel is ampere rating. We hope that this has helped you to better understand panelboard composition and ampere ratings.
You just explained a whole hell of alot but didn't simply say, this is how you tell if your Breaker box in your home is a 100 or 200.
This is literally a question I asked myself 2 weeks ago. I think Electrician U is looking at U through your service panels!
I've come to the same conclusion!
Any conductor that can carry current can also carry a communication signal, so yeah, makes sense. 😉
😆
Only problem with this video is you did not show how to identify a 100 or a 200A panel
If you don’t know how to tell that don’t touch a panel trust me.
@@timothydixon2545 whether I'll be touching a panel or not is of little importance. In a video like this, it's just good information to add.
What's inside a 200A panel? First let's see if how to tell you have a 200A panel. Just makes sense to me.
They should have identifying labels and stickers inside with all of that information. If they don't, you can't use it. Most inspectors will fail an inspection if they can't see what things are manufacturer rated.
Exactly, the F is this video lmao
hey Dustin, you remind me of my old foreman so we used to have a good laugh comparing the two of you. but your videos really helped me get an understanding for some of the more oddball things I haven't seen like that pass through panel you did. I'm a 9 year electrician and just passed my exam to work for my city. you're very knowledgeable and provide a great service to youtube
keep up the good work man and be careful. we may get complacent but 120v has the highest body count. be careful out there brothers and sisters.
congrats on the exam pass. i go for mine limited sat at psi in charlotte nc. can i ask what test you took
my
@@jacobdellinger4931 NYC doesn't have a journeyman card but the test to work for the city is essentially the same test but geared more towards NYC code
I’m still confused. I need to check how much amperage my electrical panel has. I need it to have 200 amps for insurance reasons. How do I check or verify if it’s 200 amps? What do I look for or calculate to determine that?
Good info, but i dont think i heard an actual answer to the question. Is the rating for the bus stamped or labeled somewhere on the panel board or box nameplate?
yes on the listed labeling usually inside is the panel's ratingm GE may be on the outside.
On square d panels sometimes it's om a sticker on rthe inside left wall of the box
Yeah. It's an interesting channel. But, as a homeowner, I still don't understand how to tell if my panel is 200 amps, as the video's title purports to tell me. I do, however, now have a nice list of things that DO NOT indicate my panel is 200 amps.
Hey Dustin maybe next video idea could you do a How to on How to read wiring diagrams ? I was trying to wire a forward off and reverse switch but didn't know how to read the schematics on it. Please and thank you.
Would you consider making a video where you upgrade a 100A panel to 200A panel. Sizing wire,conduit and attaching at weatherhead.
I know he did this on his house, but I would LOVE to see a FULL tutorial swap...
that would mean an all new meter base as well. Just had that done a few years ago but I already had 200A service but the meter base was too small for current standards, being from the '50s and the box had no main disconnect, only for the 2 legs and it had 2 large breakers that were separate. Thanks Zinsco
Please: and show us what is entailed with getting the utilities ASS! to come out to change over
I just bought a townhouse with 100amp inspector said I needed to upgrade to a 200amp how much would this cost me or can I keep 100amp there's work needs to be done
Can you make a video about IMGB (Insulated Metallic Ground Bushing). Where, how and why we use them? Thanks
Dustin ----- You may or may not remember me but you've highlighted a few of my comments here on your channel.
I just want to give you some brotherly love for what you do.
You are consistent in making your videos informative, easy to understand for apprentices and for Journeyman alike.
You've not one time given any bad advice, wrong information, or shown unworkaman like skills, or bad habits. The couple of times you have done anything close to but still far from bad work it was still done correctly and you explained yourself as to why you did it and the more correct way to do that task.
From a 30+ yrs very well taught, very well rounded, electrician, state license holder, ex union, I would work next to you any time on any job. That's a rare compliment from me. We'd have a good time also. Guaranteed. We both have stories and experiences that would entertain us and anyone around.
You're doing good things for the trade and that is awesome.
After my dad died, went through the panels on a building my dad built in 1962. Still beautiful Cutler Hammers with real copper busses.
A good reminder of why we have torque values and why using torque wrenches and screwdrivers is very important when landing wires in terminals and lugs.
It's actually just some bull shit made up by some guy at a computer. I never seen anything bad happen torqued or not torqued.
@@trxtech3010 Yea. I do mostly residential service work and I hardly see burnt up main lugs. I bet all those were hand tight with no torque specs.
@@trxtech3010 agreed
Torque and grease to protect heat expansion?
@@AB_thingsDFW ... grease (the electrical kind) doesn't protect against heat. It's to stop corrosion in the long run, which can create heat. (with or without proper tightening)
Yo, why is Dustin looking so yoked? Look at them arms, boy!
Been watching for a while, I am an Electrician out of Cincinnati and YOU have taught me a lot of tips and tricks along my journey so far. Also joined your website membership and happy to see you hitting 400k! CONGRATS!
You are a Genius..and I like the humor side as well, and i appreciate your honesty of sharing the mistakes that you made especially being an apprentice.
I am not electrician but how do you identify what amperage the panel is? Is it stamped on the buss? I am a/c tech i have a general knowledge of electrity
Can a 100 amp panel lugs handle a 200 amp breaker. is there a difference in the lug size or ratings that would not allow this.?
DUSTIN, All Panels for houses, bars/clubs, etc only use One Phase. So all the AC outlets in a house or Bar/club are connected to one phase which is going to cause very Dirty AC power. You haven't done a video lesson about Dirty AC power and how to make it into Clean AC power. What I'm saying is that all the breakers in the panel are all connected to one phase so if you have a power tool or motorized equipment connected to an AC outlet it will cause harmonics and motor noises to BACK travel causing the upstream outlets and downstream outlets to induce and feed these noises and harmonics into the next piece of equipment that is plug into another outlet that is even on another breaker or the same breaker. Back in the days you could see visual noises on older CRT TV's sets when you had the dishwasher, washing machine, power tools running the CRT TV will display static lines and hum lines. What can you do to fix this problems of dirty AC power? You should make a video lesson about dirty AC power and how to make it clean
Dustin, great video. But I wish you had mentioned that there is a label somewhere on the panel board that states what the amperage rating is and model number. When dealing with an existing panel this can be useful to know. The manufacturers website should have documentation where to find this information. For a QO panel it's likely on the right side of the top right main lug. I know because I recently had to find out what panel was installed in my house.
So how can I actually tell if it’s rated for 200A? My panel was replaced by previous owners brand new and it looks like a 200A panel based on the number of circuits it can have but it is protected by a 100A main breaker
Dustin your arms look swole af dude
Question.. if your outside meter/whole house breaker is 200 amps, how do you know the amperage rating of your house sub-panel if there is no label or markings on the sub-panel? I've got a two-pole 32 spaced sub-panel from the late 80's, markings have been removed except for the brand.
The pan also has a amp rating or the 1s we use and we use about all different brands
Good explanation, is that a square D panel?
So the panel board has a stamp or a marking that indicates amperage rating for each bus? You didn't specify that. Thanks!
any rating shown on the panel sticker *IS* for each leg. No need to spell it out further.
@@rupe53 Thank you, sir!
Similar story, I did a service call where homeowner said every time he would charge his car, the main breaker would trip after about 5 to 10 minutes of charging. Checked the 50A breaker, connections, the charger itself, everything seemed to be fine. I used a flir heat camera and pointed it at the car charger breaker and started charging the car. The 50A breaker was fine, but I saw one of the main lugs starting to heat up. Once breakers get to about 140°F they will trip. It wasn't until there was an extra 40 or so amps going through the feeders that would trip the main. It was an interesting experience and would have solved the issue faster if I was more experienced. Anyways, thank you for your videos
Great information
Just a curious DIYer here. How many amps is the main breaker on the panel?
getting super ripped.
Holy cow! Wait till EV's make their way into this!🙄 now ford and gm are coming out with the newer 240V 80A ac monster home ev chargers! Could those chargers trip a 200A box? Could house run smoothly on such chargers? Do you need to upgrade the box and utility service? And don't forget, those 80A charges need 100A to operate. The other 20A act as a buffer!🙄🙄
Ok, so this did not make any sense to me. Can anyone please clarify?
A 200amp breaker is only able to supply/withstand a combined Load/draw of 200amp ? Regardless of split phase 2 leg or 3 phase, 3 legs ?
I always thought, each leg can handle/provide up to 200amp so in reality a 200 amp breaker is 600 amp breaker. (Using Theoretical 100% values here for simplicity )
It looks like I am wrong here but, if that’s the case, why is the wires gauge for each leg is sized for 200amp? Is it so, in an event that all load is only on one leg, you are still safe ?
The more I think about it, it makes sense. I have seen some old breakers where they are essentially a single pole breakers but they are tied together with a small wire/rod. If one of the two trips, the other leg would trip automatically.
As I’m typing I am developing a different theory. The 200amp breaker is acting like a gatekeeper for all legs. No single leg is permitted draw more than 200 amp. If it did the heat would trip all 3 legs. So, if you do your load distributions correctly, you can draw more than 200 without tripping the main 200amp breaker ?
Please advise
The one thing I don’t understand it’s very easy to add a sub panel but what I don’t understand is if your main panel is 200 A and you want to add 100 amp sub panel you have to use 100 amp breaker in your main panel, correct.
And doesn’t that mean that you need to remove breakers that equal 100 A to your new box which is 100 A and if you do that that means your new box is full and on top of that your old box is full because you just replaced it with 100 amp Breaker so you’ve accomplished nothing.
I do understand that you could just take out a 830 amp breaker and put in 100 amp there but if you did that now you’re 70 A over on your 200 amp box right how is that legal
But you didn’t say how to know if you have a 200 amp service? Or a 600 amp service. How can I tell?
So, the 200 amp is designated by the circuit breakers equally summed up to a total of 200 amps. Each breaker added up to the total of 200 amps another words. OK, I get it and if I don't get it, I better got it.
So how do you measure how much amps you are pulling? Do you add up Leg1 and Leg2?
Can we get more advanced troubleshooting videos?
So this is about amp ratings when purchasing a new panel? If the panel is live with a main 200 amp breaker in use, isn’t it a 200 amp panel? Just asking.
IMHO Trust no one (unless you are the only owner since installed). Some bozo could have come in and 'fudged' the main.
BTW the main might be undersized (required) if you have solar and a pre-solar era panel.
if you actually think about it NO ONE will most likely NEVER use all 200 amps at the same time...THink of how much amps flow through LED or rec....and Chances are you're NOT using all them at the same time anyway....even if you did, the average house wouldn't use more than 50Amps, more if you had your dishwasher, washing machine and dryer all going with a few window AC units LOL
@@mikenormandy9250 ... for the average home owner it's unlikely they will ever draw 50% of that 200 amps. Most of the panel space (# of breakers) is for all the home runs required under new codes. Unless you have electric heat, electric hot water, electric clothes drier, and AC running you are probably in the 20 amps per leg range most of the time. I have checked a few homes with sauna, hot tub, ac, welder, air compressor, drier, water pump, and electric range, and barely hit 100 amps per leg. OTOH, I'm sure it bumps 175 amps after a power failure when everything comes on at once. (how often can that happen?)
If each phase buss is rated at 200 amps in the panel does this mean that each breaker position is rated at 200 divided by the number of positions in that bus?
If there are 10 positions in that bus 200 / 10. 20 amp max breaker, in each position, if fully loaded?
A 200 amp single phase panel can handle up to 400 amps at 120v, or 48,000 watts. A 200 amp three phase panel can handle up to 600 amps at 120v, or 72,000 watts.
So if I have a 250A MCB with a 125A main, will I have to replace my main for a higher main?
I still don’t understand why I should move to a different social media to watch and pay for videos. 🤷♂️
I need to ask you a question OK I have a three phase electrical box. I was called to a job and one of the legs were bad so that the power company came out and fixed it. I still have no power. I got power on one side of the building and power on that power on the other side couldn’t be a switch that bad or an outlet somewhere
I purchased a 100 amp Homelite internal panel for my shop which had a #2 gauge copper wire supply feed. I decided I wanted a 125 amp Mai beaker. The only 125 amp load center available was an external panel. I simply swapped out the main breaker. Do I need to disconnect all the wires and swap out the panel itself to have a 125 amp load center? Am I likely to burn up the buss bars if drawing 115 amps?
I am not an electrician this is my opinion. The panel is rated at 100amps, putting 125amps is out of spec and I'm guessing not code. The easiest option is to replace the 125 with 100 amp breaker for now to be safe. Eventually replace the panel with a proper 125amp panel/breaker combo. Another consideration... If the house burns down the insurance company will be very happy they don't have to pay for damages.
I'm not sure you fully understood the question. And, BTW, it is not a house, it is an external shop made out of metal, so nothing to "burn down".
I bought and own two load centers: one 100 amp "inside" box and one 125 amp "outside" box. Dustin indicated in the video that the "panel" can be removed from the case and you can replace the panel without having to completely remove all the wires from the box and the box from the wall. The question was can/should I swap out the panels. Both provide the same number of circuits and identical form factor main breakers. After reading other comments I have learned the panel should be marked with its rating.
I have known manufacturers of other equipment to provide the same base and reduce the cost by changing out one component to compete with lower priced competitors. So I considered it possible for the "panel" to be rated for 135 or 150 and they put different sized main breakers in to reduce cost. If the buss bars are indeed a smaller gauge, I will be swapping the panels, provided they are interchangeable. I would prefer to keep the "internal" easy open door than to have the "external" weather resistant door inside my shop. Home Depot just didn't offer a 125 amp internal load center.
My new panel say 150 amp 25kaic. What does the kaic stand for.
Just to be clear, a 200 Amp panel can allow UP TO 200 amps per bus draw, correct?
This awesome you should be a teacher. Amazing how you break things down.
How about some info on 600amps service for a building?
How do I know what service I have if I have no main breaker or no tags or writing anywhere in panel or service meter
I love your stuff man. Sure could have used your info when I was an apprentice!
Are the voltage of the 3 phase per hot line different also?
Thanks for making it more complicated 🤪 ,
How do I tell from the stickers inside a panel?
I have a 240v car charger running straight from my main panel. I recently thought it would be nice to add another 240v outlet for an power tool that I'll use sparingly. I think code requires car chargers to be on their own dedicated line. That being said, can I cut my car charger line and run it into a sub panel that will then branch back to the car and the extra outlet I want?
That is something that is possible, but that other outlet will need to be a GFCI these days. The car charger will have its own GFCI so will NOT need one if it's hardwired. BTW, in many areas you can run a 70 amp breaker on a #6 wire to feed that new panel. Check with your local inspector to verify.
Does the panel it’s self not need to be marked rated for 200 Amp?
I have a less common situation and I need help finding a video or blog guide on adding a 200amp panel to the outside to meet current code while leaving my original 100amp in place inside my house. I don't want to move all the circuits & I like having interior control & some of the wires would be too short to relocate outside. No one does this because this requires a 100amp breaker to be installed inside the 200amp panel probably? (Is putting a 100amp breaker inside the 200amp panel possible?)
Great video and education.
Thank you.
Can you use an 3 phase panel for an single phase system? If so, do you have to skip every third spot for breakers?
your local inspector may not allow that 3 phase panel on a single phase system, although it will work.
Umm … so how to identify the Amps on the panel ???
hai brother audio not currently pls check
Hope you are getting those Square D panels from Hill Country Electric Supply.
Qo130m200pg and qo330l200pg
I am grateful for this video... .When you ask how much current a 200A panel can handle I hate it when people just go like "HuRhURhUr Ur sTupID, OBvioUsLY iT cAn OnLY HaNdLe 200A"
Like yeah I get the name, but does it handle 100A on each bus to reach 200 or does it handle 200A on each bus? People really dismiss these type of questions instead of trying to understand what you're actually asking even if you were clear on what you wanted to know previously.
This video has really saved my life with this information.
I am from Toronto, I like your videos
I am from Serbia, me and my father have installed the wiring to many homes. 3 phase here is the norm 230/400V. There are even 3 phase sockets for stoves, storage heaters and 3 phase motors.
But I have never seen in my life more than 32A main breaker or more than 16A branch circuit. My home has 20A service.
I have seen once 200A breaker, but it was for whole residential building, not for 1 house.
Are you sure? That seems really low. That means the sum total of all of the power used in your house cannot exceed 3x20x230=13.8kW
@@yeroca Yeah, a small fan heater is going to be around 13A at 230V. That doesn't leave much slack. I would think enough of Serbia was up to modern enough standards that even 50 would be low. Could that possibly be 20A per leg?
@@chaos.corner It is 20A per phase. And it is so low so they force you to balance the phases on home level and also not to turn on much appliances at the same time. At the end of the day, utility company has to scale production capacity and distribution to peak load. If load is much more spread out, there is no issue.
We also have very cheap night rate, so many people use storage heaters, water heaters and washing machines at night.
Higher voltage means less amperage/current needed.
Got a Square D QOC40UF load center, there's no main disconnect on the breaker panel. How do I know if it's 125 A or 150 A or 200 A?.
Is he talking to electricians in this video.
You're looking for the demand factor for the load. Thats how electrical works, why would you introduce to beginers a 3 phase sub panel next to a single phase panel? Stop confusing people
So do you sit have the 600 amps of capacity
Residential panel upgrades from 100amp to 200amp residential panel typically require PG&E (California) to come out and upgrade the service drop wires to accommodate the new 200amp potential, right?
Any NEC Code, videos, panel upgrade info you guys can share would be greatly appreciated, location: California
What means PG E
@@modestolopez8297 pacific gas and electric
They are the Electrical Utility provider in our area.
@@ChristianJames559 thank you
I’ve upgraded quite a few California houses from 100 to 200 amp service.
Normally PGE does not replace the overhead drop wires because they are sized appropriately by PGE code.
PGE might need to upgrade the local transformer to accommodate the new 200 amp service in the neighborhood.
If the service is underground, the wires quite often had to be upgraded and installed in a new trench with 3” conduit.
AFter learning car audio, I could do my own electrical work in my house.
Understanding AMPs, wattages and distance relitive to the box and the outlet is also very important just like
in a car.
For example 14 gauge through a house will not handle 30 amps.
But if you make that cable as short as your hand it can
Quick question since I know your a texas electrician with a TDLR license, is there anything I can do if my past employers are not giving me my OJT hours?
I’m looking for the video where you did a review on a large enclosure I believe it was 200amp set up with whole house automatic transfer switch and room for more goodies. The panel was white.
How about we move past all these day-1 questions and start answering questions that professionals have?
So is it marked or something?
Is there some marking on the plastic panel somewhere saying 200amp rating???
As a Brit, I have questions. The single phase board has an isolator switch but only one pole is switched? Is that correct, shouldn't it be a double pole isolator? As to the 3phase board, it has no isolator whats so ever-so how do you kill the board? In the UK its a requirement of code that ALL Boards have isolators within and treat the neutral as live and switch that to. So in a single phase board its a two pole isolator and a 3phase board a 4pole isolator.
Who knew guns would be showcased in an informational electrician video? :)
Do you have any recommendations for thermal imaging cameras for techs out in the field??? Thanks again dude
So this explains the panel capacity very well. I'm also curious if, generally speaking, a home can get a panel upgrade from, say, 150A to 200A without changing out the feeder lines (I don't know the right terminology there) that go from the transformer to the house.
I ask because I foresee needing to change my hot water heater from natural gas to electric. I probably will not opt for an instant hot water system, but rather a heat pump type of heater. I think our panel was originally sized for using natural gas to heat water.
From the transformer wires run to the meter. And then from the meter to your panel. To upgrade from 150A to 200A both sets of wires have to be rated for 200A. Also the meter has to be 200A. So make sure the meter and the wires are properly sized 👍🏽
Almost certainly the wires to your meter will be capable (though check) but you'll have to check everything after that. So basically you'll have to check. You might be able to just add an extra panel, we have two 100A panels as the house got upgraded over the years. One is old-school fuses. I get tempted to do an upgrade to a full-on 200A panel with fancy-pants features sometimes.
@@GHETTOCOWB0Y Thanks! I hadn't considered the wires from the meter. Luckily, though, if they need upgrading, it should be a simple matter because the meter is on the opposite side of the wall that the breaker panel is mounted to.
@@chaos.corner It's always nice to make your pants fancier :D
The first thing is does your main power come in overhead or underground. The meter size by the power company is in the part number on your meter if it has a 200 in the meter part number power company already has their side sized for 200amps. If I where you I would first amp probe the feeder cables at the panel to see what your true load is cause unless your house is like over 2500sf and you have all electric heat and only need one water heater you might not need to upgrade it right away.
Question. if my meter base is a cl200 does that mean 200amps per hot wire. Or 100amp each hot wire.
Anybody else having issues getting a 200A meter socket in right now?
Thank you for explaining this it got me close to answering my question but I am not sure.
I'm not an electrician and I have concerns about the load going through one of my brakers/circuits.
I bought my house in 2020.
It is 113 years old a lot of the wiring reflects the age and upgrades throughout the years.
My braker tripped for 2 electrical outlets, I Up graded those outlets to a GFCI outlet. Still trips.
Today I was going to update all of my electrical outlets and lighting, since my electrical panel is written in vague terms like "plug light" i decided to figuer out which was which and I ran into a WFT is this even code moment?
I have trolled the internet for an answer,, evenpaid $8 for a digital copy of national fire electrical code, I think that's what it is called. (Your videos sometimes have a photo of the cover page) for all the reading i did, it was basically Latin to me.
Decided to troll the TH-cam and your videos for an answer, (I think I have picked up some of the lingo but I maybe wrong forgive me)
This video kinda answered my concerns but I'm unsure. I understand that that there are 3 busses 200 Amp each for that particular demo panel, and each slot flips across.
I have 13 switches/circuits
One of those brakers is labeled " plug light"
The first position (top left)
It is a 2x20 and is the circuit/braker (is on 2 busses?) for:
2 outdoor lights
2 main floor electrical outlets
Main floor Dinning room light
Main floor bedroom light
1 Upstairs bedroom light with both electrical sockets
1 upstairs hallway light
Laundry room light
Another Upstairs bedroom socket
Gas Fire place
2 kitchen lights
Half of the basement lights
Keep in mind I have a 2x50 circuit labeled hot tub, but I don't have a hot tub and it does not turn on or off anything within the house.
Is this something I should have rewired?
I've lived in ghetto apartments that didn't have that much load on a 2×20 circuit.
For residential, can the busses of two single-phase panels with 42 (or more) spaces each be connected together so that one 200 amp breaker is use as overcurrent protection for both panels? I have seen where a panel is full and a second panel needs to be added.
We here in Australia dont have 2 phase 1 neutral its either 1 phase 1 neutral or 3 phase 1 neutral also black here in Australia is the colour of neutral where white is a phase colour ( red / white / blue) earth is green / with a yellow stripe
Where is the school ????
It is called a learning experience, the most important thing is you learned and remembered it to avoid ever happening again.
Watching from Ph., nice content..keep it up.. continue educate everyone..
How about one on what's the difference between a 200amp and 400amp service? I've heard that the only difference is the meter.
there's quite a bit of difference between 200 and a true 400 service, starting with the wire lug size in the meter pan.
Thank you! That actually explains things.
Here in my area of California, there is a very strong push to add EV outlets and to convert gas appliances to electric. (Some areas have just outlawed adding new gas lines altogether) So I'm remodeling a home and added the EV outlet and converted the appliance power sources. After a year and a half, (YES, fully permitted) we are ready for the utility to swap our connection from the temporary drop to the new 200 amp panel. Just now finding out that it seems my new 200 amp upgrade is going to be the house that puts the local transformer over the limit. So now my house will be without power for up to 6 to 9 months until they engineer and replace the new transformer. I thought I had heard of everything. PLEASE consult your utility specifically about this way before you start and upgrade project.
I am 100% not changing my gas appliances to electrical (range/on demand hot water).
You could just read the label on the panel to see the amperage rating 🤔
Oooh neat!
video to good
Hello love the channel. Can you make a video of derating conductos explained and how it applies into conduit fill and such. Thank you
may I add a comment to this video? (It’s your program and I don’t wish to be a “told-you-so). While the main breaker DOES protect the panel bus, it is actually the protection device for the utility loop and transformer. All most all transformers that are operated by electric utilities are not protected on the secondary, thus these main breakers create a significant protection zone. (I’m a master electrician, commercial inspector, and EE with 20 years of utility design experience and I have worked supporting the NEC CMPs). Thanks Dustin, great job as always!!
wtf? shouldnt these be closer to the transformer so they can trigger if the utility cable is damaged, like a short circuit because someone dug at the wrong place, or a tree fell over the lines from the transformer to the house
Hi there what is th difference between 2/0 and a 2 gauge wire ? thanks
hai
Dang bro gettin buff from last time I saw you man
You should make a video working in live panel
So , if i put more than 200 amps on the panel, the main feed would shut off ??? (I'm not an electrician, but I like your videos).
An exact 200A long term (could be 4hrs) will trip the breaker. Breakers have 'trip curves' selected for their application. Motors tend to grab a huge slug starting, then drop below nameplate when normally running, those have a slower instantaneous trip.
Can you put the panel board the other way too ?
Godamn good video man. Cheers!
Thanks for doing these videos