The key to brazing in refrigeration is to get the joint hot quickly ( not red hot ) and fill it quickly. If you were to get a service valve, reversing valve, or TXV this hot, it would be ruined.
Agreed. There are a few options out there but I'm weary about some of them. The "cool gel" type products tend to work pretty well. I usually try to wrap a wet rag around the sensitive components. But brazing the suction line into an air handler is always a little scary for me because it's so close to everything else. Oxygen Acetylene works great to heat up quickly, but I rather use Acetylene. Just figuring out how to protect the components can get tricky.
Brazing rod melt at 1200+ degrees… That’s glowing red temps. Soldering is done at much lower temps, there are good HVAC solders available nowadays. Just got to be carful not to flux it like a plumber would.
Before you attempt to teach someone to braze... Yiu should learn.... You used a whole tank of gas on one joint.... Omfg. I see first year apprentices with nicer looking joints.
Try moving your heat off of the pipe and towards the bottom of the cup. You should be filling that cup, then draw the flame back and cap the joint so you can not see the lip.
I do commercial refrigeration for a living and have run 2 5/8 pipe through an entire building for a grocery store. Your prep work is perfect. But Red hot is way too hot for a small pipe like that. I am saying this respectfully as I just want to help u. your welds did not get enough penetration into the cup of the 90 and they would crack and leak in the field and you did not put a shoulder on the rim of the cup. You should start by heating up the pipe that is going into the cup of the 90 (this will help the rod start to melt when it is time to add it) then work your way onto the cup of the 90, now u can start adding the rod onto the rim of the cup of the 90. Now move the flame from the rim towards the center of the 90 and watch the brazing rod rush deep into the entire cup. Now do this all the way around the cup of the 90. Then pull your torch back and add a “shoulder” to it meaning. Pull the heat back to where it is just barely melting the rod and adds barrier of rod where the rim of the 90 and the pipe is. This is an insurance policy for leaks.
Just started in the industry and there is so much I don’t know. My 2 attempts so far I melted the pipe. Thanks for the tips. Hopefully I’ll catch on sooner rather than later.
When cleaning the burr the copper line must be tilted down so the burr doesn't get inside the tube. The tiniest amount will become a restriction. When brazing you should purge with nitrogen otherwise the scale produced inside the tube will mix it today's refrigerant oils causing restriction and or attach the compressor winding's..It should also be mentioned to use minimum 5% silver upwards to 15% silver content solder when welding air conditioning and refrigeration copper ..
OB Wan, you have a pretty good understanding, and you have a descent description (that you give here within). I would agree that 5% to 15% silver content brazing rod [not solder(ing)] and it is not welding (it's brazing).
Don’t braze this way! Once its cherry carbon has completely covered the inside of pipe if you’re not bleeding nitrogen. On refrigeration that carbon will clog capillary tubes and gunk up any other metering device. Why do people that don’t know put up videos misinforming the public. Damn that shit stressed me out. No bueno.
Nicely made video dude, just a couple things to improve on in my opinion. Cherry red tends to be too hot for a quality joint, as you run the risk of porous braze joints. Preheat your female fitting to a dull red, and start to feed the brazing alloy in using the heat of the copper to melt the alloy. Flux is a must on dissimilar metal joints, and I suggest using 15% silver alloy for copper to copper. 45% for copper to brass etc. plus flux.
Why exactly is flux bad for refrigeration? Just curious. I see it used when bonding unlike metals such as brass/copper. I agree with the nitrogen but this is just one method and the method used most. Let's get real, the guys in the field wont lug a nitro tank with them along with their B tanks all the time. Thanks for watching!
@@JumpermanTech if you was a hvac tech and told me you wouldnt carry nitrogen with your torches to install my refrigeration lines id send you packing thats what causes all kinds of burnouts and txv problems
Enjoyed watching this. In 1970 I commenced work as a refrigeration engineer and stayed in the industry for 14 years. Left and went on to other things. Have not brazed a joint since 1984! It hasn’t changed a bit in all that time. That was in the days before even mobile phones. Electronic instruments and controls were just being seen in the industry for the first time as I was leaving. From speaking to friends still in the industry and now at the end of their careers biggest changes seem to be the types of refrigerants (almost exclusively R12, 22 and 502 in those days), electronic and computerised controls and scroll compressors. Pleased I got out of the industry mind. Sometimes nostalgia kicks in but for the most part pleased with the choices I made. Thank you for the video.
@@TheBlank1Ne well I could see then that i might struggle physically with the demands of the work when I got older. I left the industry at 28 years of age and I was looking at men in their 50’s struggling to do the work. So I got out, studied at University and changed career to law. I am still working full time now and I am 67 entirely from home. Planning to retire next year but from choice, not because I can’t cope with the work. For me it was definitely a good choice to make. So I was coping no problem as a 28 year old but could see that would change as I got older.
Good video, but if you cut that joint in half, you will find flakes of contaminants on it from exposure to the air - bad news for orifices. An inert gas in the pipe while brazing will prevent the contamination by shielding it from the air.
That hurt, didn’t pull the braze into the joint, kept moving the torch around way too much, no flowing around the joint just dabbing, get the heat correct first and stay at the correct distance, heat, melt, pull into joint with the heat, fill the joint. Practice a few before posting lol
Hi, that was not a good display of craftsmanship. The best part was when you said to not apply a wet rag (too soon). Your technique was really bad. In all honesty, if you would like to ask for actual real/ helpful information, I will take the time to go over proper procedures. Just trying to help. To those who are interested - please do not get the copper fittings cherry red.
See a Psychiatrist buddy, Your joint is terrible, you took way to long, work that thing, heat it cherry red and apply the stick to it, keep the heat concentrated moving it up and down the joint being made, that'll get rid of the pits and bumps, you don't want rubbertex pipe insulation snagging when your pulling that on. get the Lead out of your ass, gas is expensive, i use oxy acc. i gas weld to make money not burn it up. fill the whole joint, wave some heat over the weld for smoothing, good looks, and nothing to snag on, practice, I always cool my joints fast, it hardens the copper back up, if you don't cool fast, i use a soaking wet rag, if you dont cool fast, it becomes soft copper, i don't use soft copper, you remove all annealing when letting things cool slowly
if youre having a hard time with moving around the joint on job sites i suggest getting a twin tip for your torches. it helps get a nice even amount of heat around the whole pipe , and can get the flame in hard to reach areas.
Making a small heat reflector out of some sheet metal clamped in a vise grip can be used to concentrate the heat on a joint that does not allow 360 deg access. Placing the reflector behind the joint keeps the blind side hot and prevents heating the surrounding wall. (Fire = bad)
You don't know how to braze refrigerante pipe, if you cut that pipe you will see that is all black and dirty, you need to use nitrogen and oxyacetylene torch so you don't overheat the pipes, you need to go back to school
I like your video, nice production. I just have a few notes. First, there was no mention of any nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary to prevent the oxidation of the copper during the brazing process. The particles left behind, especially on very sensitive newer equipment can eventually lead to an obstruction like oil pooling in condenser coil or blocked TXV or piston. Second, prepping the copper correctly helps ensure a proper weld (add a bit more info for the beginners). Third, I liked the way you ensured a solid weld around the piping. I did notice that you had you stick bent allowing for about 1" of rod. Example, allow 2-4" of round off your coupling. Use the rule of thumb, if your nail can get caught on the joint, round it off more rod. Lastly, always heat the copper at the fitting not the pie going into fitting, this really helps. Especially with vertical braze joints. Good video, we all are learning each day!
heating the fitting is BS. the fitting will glow red hot Way before the pipe. in vertical situation you can add a little heat to the fitting so it soaks up better. everything else is good/usable information.
Not necessary to use alloy rod , just acid and regular solder materials , and don't cook it just heat up for twenty seconds or you will destroy the acid
Your penetration is ok but Definitely Need to get your heat control down and a thicker Bead but at the end of the day as long as it doesn’t leak you’re good!
As the title says it is about how to braze a joint, not a step by step detailed video in 6 minutes of every aspect of HVAC/R brazing. He could have covered how to read a tape measure first before you cut the pipe, but instead he just did what the title says; showed how to braze a joint.
Wow 🤩 there’s too many PRO commenting, but no body got the BALLS 🏀 to do a video. Great job folks. Let’s a praise the algorithm for bringing us all together again
@@chuckydombroski when it gets cherry red like that, it’s about to burn a hole through 🤣 you don’t need to get it that hot to braze. The only time you should be getting it that hot is if you’re sweating the joint.
I’m sorry I can’t not comment on this. First of all if you want to braze like a pro get rid of that piece of shit turbo torch and get an oxy, acetylene rig like the pros. Secondly you never start by heating the fitting of always start on the pipe or the inside piece. I can tell you have had zero formal training and you have never worked with a journeyman. You are teaching people the wrong way of doing things.
Congratulations on overheating that joint you should never have a braise joint glowing red hot also you have considerably contaminated the system stop trying to show people proper ways of doing things when you yourself don't even do it properly
Way too hot. Pull back. You don't want cherry red because the inside well be covered with black scale. It takes practise. I actually prefer brazing when there's wind to dissipate the heat because high heat does bauer good flow. Be extra careful in wind though, keeping control of sparks and wetting down any dry leaves or grass around the unit first and pay close attention with backup plans ready to go just in case. It's also too easy to burn a hole with high heat and using it is actually a shortcut requiring you to keep the flame moving. I always start as I learned in school, from the back of the cup briefly and then the tubing and finishing neck on the cup. In and out as quick as possible, but aiming to fill the cup (without overfilling it all the way into the tubing). Being trained by a company owner, I can say I'm shocked to see see that these days most people don't take the few worthwhile seconds to polish joints before leaving. I would have been fired for that back in the day because the company's sticker couldn't be associated return incomplete work and every job was required to have that sticker attached. It's hard to be quiet (but I don't get involved when I see young guys these days usually leaving a big mess). With at many companies to compete against, the craft has become mostly a race to get to the next job.
If you've never silver brazed copper lineset before, just say that. Silver brazing won't even begin to start melting until copper is at LEAST glowing red. Stick to plumbing. 😂🤣😂
James Luker in terms yes, the joint is complete and wont leak but theres some things he missed, one being you have to purge nitrogen while brazzing, ik hes using a demo so these pipes arent really part of the system but he could of mentioned it since all the carbon inside could lead to a lot of problems with txv, and conpressor. Also his joints may not look like they are complete usually people like to not have the edge of the female end be sticking out, be shown, or feel it while running their nails/fingers on the joint. And this is because it can eventually cause a leak by the high pressure. So people mainly fill the edge until it doesnt show other than the melted rod. But he does know how to braze decently, and he’s probably practicing, so people really shouldnt be bashing him for this. I mean im in school learning this trade and i still dont know how to braze a joint in less than 30s or without using too much rod.
@@pedrotrejo5519 he was kinda bubblegumming the joint tho. The way that works best for me is act like you're trying to stick the rod in between the joint. And cherry red is a no no in my eyes lol. He was ready to braze when he struck the rod the second time and it melted onto the copper. But his worked and would have been fine as long as he purged nitrogen in a real life situation. He just needs more practice and he'll have it down.
The same people who think the dull cherry red is too hot are the same people who’s braze rod sticks to the pipe when they try to fill the joint and dosent flow. The pipe must be hot enough to cause capillary action and that is usually at the temperature of cherry red
You are absolutely correct and he is on the right path if I had anything to say it would be to apply the flame to both pipe and fitting at the same time and faster to avoid oxidation the torch tip should be closer at the blue part of the flame to get to temperature
I see some comments and if y’all are so good at brazing.... why are y’all watching a “how to” on brazing? I understand commenting to offer advice or how you would’ve done something different, but commenting to bash and make fun, why are you here to begin with? Show us your brazing, yeah? I’m by no means good at brazing, my tail woulda used half a rod on one joint 🤣 but that’s why I’m here... to learn
I do not like to bash, but the reason that I comment is to help. This is not a good video and people are being fed bad information as well as being shown the wrong execution of brazing techniques.
Long radius 90's are preferred in HVAC....Air conditioning rated fittings are a must....Nitrogen is over rated but to be a pro must be used these days to avoid ridicule.....First you heat the pipe....Then you heat the joint and it sucks it right in.....works every time.
I work well outside the scope of welding in commercial roofing. It's a healthy endeavor to at least have a curiousity to what some of our brothers and sisters in other trades do in contribution to our projects. Thank you for sharing knowledge.
This is brazing buddy not welding, there's a huge difference between the two. But, more power to you for being a roofer, one of the most underpaid and dangerous jobs to ever have! 💪🏼
@ASAPJermz it's not that far off from welding. My old man taught me how to weld using an acelatine torch and coat hanger. The main difference is temperature and you're not melting the main metals.
2/21/2021 For a Person that wants to teach others you need to learn your self. First your torch is way to hot. You use to much solder. Second you heat the elbow then the pipe that into the elbow. Third heat on the elbow causes suction. The suction pulled the solder into the elbow. Fourth you use only the amount Solder that is needed. If you have the pipe and Elbow glowing CHERRY red the solder won't stay in the elbow. When you add heat to a glowing red Copper Pipe the solder will fall out. Add Solder to the opposite side of the copper pipe always from the heat. The elbow and pipe is hot enough, with pipe soaked from all the heat the solder will melt. Fifth if soldering be sure to Clean and de-bur the Copper ends or joints to be welded. Sand the joints with sand Paper. If brazing Copper to Copper using solder use a Acid Pipe Cleaner for Soldering. If you are brazing Copper to Copper with seal-flos 15 percent Silver Solder sand each joint of that pipe and wipe clean each end and Joint before welding. Never use any cleaner acid if welding Seal-flos. Flow 5 to 10 cubing feet of Nitrogen through the copper to stop copper sulfate (ash) building up inside the Copper Lines if used on HVAC. The Ash in the HVAC will plug the Pump and Valves on the HVAC Units. Never Braze Copper to Copper with Seal-flos without flowing Nitrogen into the lines being welded. Clean your joints after welding with a damp rag. Pressurize all you joints for leaks.
Where was your nitrogen purging the pipe will be full of oxidisation now and needed to be flushed out or replaced. For the more experienced brazer use oxygen and acetylene for better control. But otherwise not too bad for bench work though, but too slow for site work.
I think it may not need to be purge on pipes other than medgas or refrigerant .Turbo torch comes handy with small pipes in tight spots because the flame is smaller
I always leave a link in all my videos descriptions for the items used in my videos. I will leave you a link below for the torch. Thanks for watching! TurboTorch Kit X-4B (A/C & Refrigeration kit) amzn.to/3b1QZ2R
I'm no HVAC pro but I've seen what happens to the inside of copper pipe when nitrogen isn't used while brazing. All those flakes can't be any good for expansion valves or anything else.
Unreliable and time consuming. Sanding and trimming. Plus there is a possibility that coper traces will get into the system and might cause blockage. simply I'd heat pipe and use expander and join pipes then brazing. I'd also use a small mirror to check the other side for gaps. Especially if you cannot move pipe freely
RIP to whatever you’re brazing. Way over heated. Real HVAC techs have to worry about melting valve cores, service valves, ruining TXV’s, bimetal joints, pressure switches, filter dryers, paint etc. Even if you flowed nitro it’s still ruined.
Thanks. My first braze worked out great after viewing your tutorial. Previously I was not preparing the surfaces correctly and the pipes were not hot enough. I really had to heat them longer than expected using MAP gas.
Dammit, I am seeing your comment one year later and wonder if your equipment lasted this long if you followed this idiots directions. Never got your pipe cherry red unless you don’t like the people your doing the work for.
Now try it on a walkin freezer coil next. to the wall, .over your head,l and you cant really see the joint your trying to braze. And $6,000 of product is starting to thaw.
To all the pros here, I am a beginner in brazing. I have been wonder what will happen to the brazing joint after a certain of time exposed to the environment? I used a copper-based brazing alloy as the filler metal to join two pieces of carbon steel plate. What is the possible failure that may occur on the brazed plate?
It gets tricky binding ferrous and non ferrous metals. Just make sure everything is CLEAN PRIOR TO BRAZE. A bit more info on the actual rod used could provide a better answer to your question.
Ive been brazing and soldering for atleast 50 years. Today i still dont why they braze copper a/c lines, solder works fine. The high side isnt high enough to break a sodered joint. Atleast ive never seen it. I have seen brazed copper line crystallize from acetylene and leak. Soldering is much better on copper. Although brazing cast iron is a great way to make a repair. A/C only needs to be soldered folks, its easy too. Staybright solder and stayclean flux works 💯 %
There’s room for improvement here. By and large, using a turbo torch is NOT the way the vast majority of technicians braze lines . You heated up the fitting before you heated up the pipe, and that is the opposite of best practices. You heat the pipe up first so it will expand within the fitting, creating less space in between the pipe and fitting while you’re brazing. Also, personal preference here but you’re using very low silver content brazing rods, 5 is much harder to use. 15 percent silver is the industry standard.
This is not how you braze. Let me explain. When you braze you do NOT want the braze inside the fitting (that's silver solder). The braze and copper heat/cool at different rates. Having the braze inside the fitting can develop cracks over time. When you braze you want a weld around the fitting. So you can't see where the fitting ends. Essentially a crown.
That hurt, didn’t pull the braze into the joint, kept moving the torch around way too much, no flowing around the joint just dabbing, get the heat correct first and stay at the correct distance, heat, melt, pull into joint with the heat, fill the joint. Practice a few before posting lol
Sorry dear, its not a professional style of brazing…. Wrong technique of brazing.. even in 5/8 pipe tooks thatmuch of time even after result disappointed
Cleaning the parts Pre-heat no uniformly, applied brazing alloy not properly, Melted the alloy wasn't right temperature. Somewhat melted the alloy early. Drain the side too much, and the joint doesn't have enough fillet. Seems like poor penetrated into the clearance of the joint. The joint looks weak, somewhat oxidizing flame.
Yeah just using acetylene you're heating 15' of pipe up and creating soot. Oxygen acetylene can instantly heat just the joint so you're soldered and done in seconds.
first off this isn't soldering. and secondly the entire industry uses this method and has for generations. Its easy to be critique someone behind a keyboard. union plumbers and fitters use this exact method all over the United States. The system has a service life and nobody cares about being overly anal and particular.
@@mcgman8058 so no one cares about being overly anal yet everyone I've ever met knows what brazing is but calls it soldering. There's a reason union workers do what they do, because they are crap
Close but no. This is why it’s called diy. Call a HVAC company guys! This would get you cooling for now but see ya in the spring! And I always here the same from everyone……. “fuckin TH-cam”
Awful. Cleaning is nice but not necessary on new copper for Brazing. Looks like he's using plumbing fittings. The 90 is a short radius. Refrigerant piping needs to be long radius fittings. I appreciate that he attempts to heat the male pipe before the fitting, though he doesn't apply braze with the heat on the fitting, but rather the pipe at multiple points. Braze will flow to the heat. You need the heat on the fitting when applying braze. The joints do not have enough braze either, and it's typical to leave a slight bead around the joint. No mention of purging with dry nitrogen during brazing. There will be carbon flakes inside that pipe that will travel through system and potentially foul the oil, plug up filter driers and other components. Way too many mistakes to call this pro.
I’m in hvac Trade school and I’m dropping out 😂😂 this crap is not with $20 an hour rather work at McDonald’s if I’m over here killing myself mentally and physically. No more trade school for me 😂
Good tutorial. I've been in HVACR many years and never used acetylene without oxygen so I can't opinion on whether is better but it appears that the pipe is a little bit hotter than it needs to be. Okay for pipe to pipe connections but maybe too long and too hot for heat sensitive connections like reversing valves, TXV's, service valves etc. even though a heat block paste or damp rag is implemented. I use 15% brazing rod and I find it flows much better than 5% at a lower heat. I did learn that I don't clean my copper as well as I should. Lol...
FYI..your heating method is all wrong; start with the pipe going into the fitting, heating it up first then moving back to the fitting to have the braze fill all the way into the bottom of the swage. Your method didn't braze the entire fitting and would not hold up to service..!
you are not brazing, you are silver soldering. brazing means you are using brass or bronze. you are silver soldering or hard soldering , the results should be yellow not gray
Wow there’s too many PRO commenting, but no body got the BALLS to do a video. Great job folks. Let’s a praise the algorithm for bringing us all together again
I'm actually recording a video as well speak on how to do that except I will be soldering. You can apply the same principals shown in that video for brazing in a tight space. It will be released most likely tomorrow. Subscribe for more tips/tricks and stay tuned for new videos every week!
I could have been in and out of there in 1/4 of the time. Your torch was whistling like the tip had something in it. I’ve used both air acetylene and ox acetylene I prefer the latter. You should have been able to get the joint up to temperature much quicker. Other than that I thought it was better than a lot of the brazing videos I’ve seen
Cool video and i think your good intention were good of showing how to braze and I give you a credit as well as pointing some stuff that was wrong. With time you'll will perfect your brazing skills. But don't use short radious 90's for refrigeration just saying.
One small critique if I may. If you hold the inner flame on the joint it will heat much more efficiently and move the flame in toward the fitting as the filler follows the heat. You don’t need so much on the pipe. Also, that long under the torch seems to weaken the fitting to a degree that it easily collapses at the slightest torque
The reason the fitting collapses is because heating it cherry red and allowing it to cool annuals the metal and makes it soft. If you heat it and then hit it with a cold rag quickly, it will harden again. This is tricky as a guy in the field probably isn't controlling the temperature that accurately and quenching improperly can create cracks and internal stresses.
Im not really an expert, but I agree. The heat draws the solder or braze in. Some of what happened here just layed more filler on yop, improving the look, but didn't likely travel in to where it counts. The idea is to work the torch to evenly heat the assembly and 123 add braze so it runs in. In some ways you only have one shot to really nail it perfect. Will still hold, but you'll have added twice the filler. Most will just be laying on top.
The key to brazing in refrigeration is to get the joint hot quickly ( not red hot ) and fill it quickly. If you were to get a service valve, reversing valve, or TXV this hot, it would be ruined.
Agreed. There are a few options out there but I'm weary about some of them. The "cool gel" type products tend to work pretty well. I usually try to wrap a wet rag around the sensitive components. But brazing the suction line into an air handler is always a little scary for me because it's so close to everything else. Oxygen Acetylene works great to heat up quickly, but I rather use Acetylene. Just figuring out how to protect the components can get tricky.
Brazing rod melt at 1200+ degrees… That’s glowing red temps. Soldering is done at much lower temps, there are good HVAC solders available nowadays. Just got to be carful not to flux it like a plumber would.
I always used oxygen with acetylene. Maybe he’s taking so long because he’s only using acetylene.
Before you attempt to teach someone to braze... Yiu should learn.... You used a whole tank of gas on one joint.... Omfg. I see first year apprentices with nicer looking joints.
Try moving your heat off of the pipe and towards the bottom of the cup. You should be filling that cup, then draw the flame back and cap the joint so you can not see the lip.
gold！
Yup! Bad shoulder. He ain’t “brazing like a pro”
You mean the bell not cup
He definitely means cup aka fitting lingo is lingo but a perfect braze and a good braze are 2 different things and this ant it
Amana says not to use flux when brazing. The flux mixes with the refrigerant oil and forms an acid that compromises TXV and compressor.
For dissimilar metals only-do.your research.
no drifting with nitro? leaves a-lot of suet inside the pipe and can clog your metering device.
I do commercial refrigeration for a living and have run 2 5/8 pipe through an entire building for a grocery store. Your prep work is perfect. But Red hot is way too hot for a small pipe like that. I am saying this respectfully as I just want to help u. your welds did not get enough penetration into the cup of the 90 and they would crack and leak in the field and you did not put a shoulder on the rim of the cup. You should start by heating up the pipe that is going into the cup of the 90 (this will help the rod start to melt when it is time to add it) then work your way onto the cup of the 90, now u can start adding the rod onto the rim of the cup of the 90. Now move the flame from the rim towards the center of the 90 and watch the brazing rod rush deep into the entire cup. Now do this all the way around the cup of the 90. Then pull your torch back and add a “shoulder” to it meaning. Pull the heat back to where it is just barely melting the rod and adds barrier of rod where the rim of the 90 and the pipe is. This is an insurance policy for leaks.
Just started in the industry and there is so much I don’t know. My 2 attempts so far I melted the pipe. Thanks for the tips. Hopefully I’ll catch on sooner rather than later.
When cleaning the burr the copper line must be tilted down so the burr doesn't get inside the tube. The tiniest amount will become a restriction. When brazing you should purge with nitrogen otherwise the scale produced inside the tube will mix it today's refrigerant oils causing restriction and or attach the compressor winding's..It should also be mentioned to use minimum 5% silver upwards to 15% silver content solder when welding air conditioning and refrigeration copper ..
0% is also acceptable.
OB Wan, you have a pretty good understanding, and you have a descent description (that you give here within). I would agree that 5% to 15% silver content brazing rod [not solder(ing)] and it is not welding (it's brazing).
That pipe is nearly no longer a pipe. This is not brazing it is charing.
Don’t braze this way! Once its cherry carbon has completely covered the inside of pipe if you’re not bleeding nitrogen. On refrigeration that carbon will clog capillary tubes and gunk up any other metering device. Why do people that don’t know put up videos misinforming the public. Damn that shit stressed me out. No bueno.
Nicely made video dude, just a couple things to improve on in my opinion. Cherry red tends to be too hot for a quality joint, as you run the risk of porous braze joints. Preheat your female fitting to a dull red, and start to feed the brazing alloy in using the heat of the copper to melt the alloy. Flux is a must on dissimilar metal joints, and I suggest using 15% silver alloy for copper to copper. 45% for copper to brass etc. plus flux.
purely gold
In fairness, he mentioned flux for dissimilar metals
Flux is bad for refrigeration, and you should run low pressure nitrogen through the pipe while brazing
SIRUS tone exactly
You realize it’s just a demo not a full process. Make your own video and do it right
Why exactly is flux bad for refrigeration? Just curious. I see it used when bonding unlike metals such as brass/copper. I agree with the nitrogen but this is just one method and the method used most. Let's get real, the guys in the field wont lug a nitro tank with them along with their B tanks all the time. Thanks for watching!
@@whit6282 Seriously lol I agree with the nitrogen part but this is just one method and the method used most. Thanks for watching!
@@JumpermanTech if you was a hvac tech and told me you wouldnt carry nitrogen with your torches to install my refrigeration lines id send you packing thats what causes all kinds of burnouts and txv problems
Freaking youtubers.🤣 nah, you need a lesson yourself.haha
Enjoyed watching this. In 1970 I commenced work as a refrigeration engineer and stayed in the industry for 14 years. Left and went on to other things. Have not brazed a joint since 1984! It hasn’t changed a bit in all that time. That was in the days before even mobile phones. Electronic instruments and controls were just being seen in the industry for the first time as I was leaving. From speaking to friends still in the industry and now at the end of their careers biggest changes seem to be the types of refrigerants (almost exclusively R12, 22 and 502 in those days), electronic and computerised controls and scroll compressors. Pleased I got out of the industry mind. Sometimes nostalgia kicks in but for the most part pleased with the choices I made. Thank you for the video.
What did you leave for? I'm interested.
@@TheBlank1Ne well I could see then that i might struggle physically with the demands of the work when I got older. I left the industry at 28 years of age and I was looking at men in their 50’s struggling to do the work. So I got out, studied at University and changed career to law. I am still working full time now and I am 67 entirely from home. Planning to retire next year but from choice, not because I can’t cope with the work. For me it was definitely a good choice to make. So I was coping no problem as a 28 year old but could see that would change as I got older.
Good video, but if you cut that joint in half, you will find flakes of contaminants on it from exposure to the air - bad news for orifices. An inert gas in the pipe while brazing will prevent the contamination by shielding it from the air.
Not a good video.
That hurt, didn’t pull the braze into the joint, kept moving the torch around way too much, no flowing around the joint just dabbing, get the heat correct first and stay at the correct distance, heat, melt, pull into joint with the heat, fill the joint.
Practice a few before posting lol
Hi, that was not a good display of craftsmanship. The best part was when you said to not apply a wet rag (too soon).
Your technique was really bad. In all honesty, if you would like to ask for actual real/ helpful information, I will take the time to go over proper procedures. Just trying to help.
To those who are interested - please do not get the copper fittings cherry red.
See a Psychiatrist buddy, Your joint is terrible, you took way to long, work that thing, heat it cherry red and apply the stick to it, keep the heat concentrated moving it up and down the joint being made, that'll get rid of the pits and bumps, you don't want rubbertex pipe insulation snagging when your pulling that on. get the Lead out of your ass, gas is expensive, i use oxy acc. i gas weld to make money not burn it up. fill the whole joint, wave some heat over the weld for smoothing, good looks, and nothing to snag on, practice, I always cool my joints fast, it hardens the copper back up, if you don't cool fast, i use a soaking wet rag, if you dont cool fast, it becomes soft copper, i don't use soft copper, you remove all annealing when letting things cool slowly
u r moving torch 360 degrees but it's not possible in the job site
if youre having a hard time with moving around the joint on job sites i suggest getting a twin tip for your torches. it helps get a nice even amount of heat around the whole pipe , and can get the flame in hard to reach areas.
Making a small heat reflector out of some sheet metal clamped in a vise grip can be used to concentrate the heat on a joint that does not allow 360 deg access. Placing the reflector behind the joint keeps the blind side hot and prevents heating the surrounding wall. (Fire = bad)
He did a great job but you are correct I do hvac an when your brazing in the attic in hard spots it gets a little tricky
@@ChaseLife2016 yea exactly.. and I want to see the video of him using turbo torch at 1 ¹/⁸" evap line at condenser, and keep the valley cool..
Valve*
For everyone how thinks they can do better.. or he has no capillary going.. Ima tell you this is not a fucking watchmaker's workshop..
You don't know how to braze refrigerante pipe, if you cut that pipe you will see that is all black and dirty, you need to use nitrogen and oxyacetylene torch so you don't overheat the pipes, you need to go back to school
I like your video, nice production. I just have a few notes. First, there was no mention of any nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary to prevent the oxidation of the copper during the brazing process. The particles left behind, especially on very sensitive newer equipment can eventually lead to an obstruction like oil pooling in condenser coil or blocked TXV or piston. Second, prepping the copper correctly helps ensure a proper weld (add a bit more info for the beginners).
Third, I liked the way you ensured a solid weld around the piping. I did notice that you had you stick bent allowing for about 1" of rod. Example, allow 2-4" of round off your coupling. Use the rule of thumb, if your nail can get caught on the joint, round it off more rod. Lastly, always heat the copper at the fitting not the pie going into fitting, this really helps. Especially with vertical braze joints. Good video, we all are learning each day!
This guy knows what he's talking about. Can confirm
heating the fitting is BS. the fitting will glow red hot Way before the pipe. in vertical situation you can add a little heat to the fitting so it soaks up better.
everything else is good/usable information.
@@casemodder89 I should have stated to start heating at the fitting. Nice catch!
Nitrogen to prevent oxidation? Can you elaborate please? What is the product you use for that?
Not necessary to use alloy rod , just acid and regular solder materials , and don't cook it just heat up for twenty seconds or you will destroy the acid
Your penetration is ok but Definitely Need to get your heat control down and a thicker Bead but at the end of the day as long as it doesn’t leak you’re good!
“Your penetration is ok” that’s what she said.
Now cut up the join & show us how much scale you created by not using nitrogen inside the pipe....
came here looking for this
As the title says it is about how to braze a joint, not a step by step detailed video in 6 minutes of every aspect of HVAC/R brazing. He could have covered how to read a tape measure first before you cut the pipe, but instead he just did what the title says; showed how to braze a joint.
@@kennyw7453 well I could take your comment seriously if I didn't have to watch him spend an hour de-burring
😂
Wow 🤩 there’s too many PRO commenting, but no body got the BALLS 🏀 to do a video. Great job folks. Let’s a praise the algorithm for bringing us all together again
I'll post one tomorrow when Im on the roof of the building we're working on now
@@dreadsdontmakemehrasta lying ngga
This video should be called how to turn copper to carbon!
Almost melted the pipe
Lol this video gave me a lot of anxiety.
It should be how not to braze, lol.
Nah it got red for a sec.
Invites you to BBQ:
Burns the meat to a crisp.
NICCCEE
@@chuckydombroski when it gets cherry red like that, it’s about to burn a hole through 🤣 you don’t need to get it that hot to braze. The only time you should be getting it that hot is if you’re sweating the joint.
Don't give up the other job because I hope your not a plumber 👎
Is this an example what not to do?
I’m sorry I can’t not comment on this. First of all if you want to braze like a pro get rid of that piece of shit turbo torch and get an oxy, acetylene rig like the pros. Secondly you never start by heating the fitting of always start on the pipe or the inside piece. I can tell you have had zero formal training and you have never worked with a journeyman. You are teaching people the wrong way of doing things.
100%
1.2k thumbs down-is how many people actually know how to braze. This is missing many critical steps.
Congratulations on overheating that joint you should never have a braise joint glowing red hot also you have considerably contaminated the system stop trying to show people proper ways of doing things when you yourself don't even do it properly
Agreed
Way too hot. Pull back. You don't want cherry red because the inside well be covered with black scale. It takes practise. I actually prefer brazing when there's wind to dissipate the heat because high heat does bauer good flow. Be extra careful in wind though, keeping control of sparks and wetting down any dry leaves or grass around the unit first and pay close attention with backup plans ready to go just in case. It's also too easy to burn a hole with high heat and using it is actually a shortcut requiring you to keep the flame moving. I always start as I learned in school, from the back of the cup briefly and then the tubing and finishing neck on the cup. In and out as quick as possible, but aiming to fill the cup (without overfilling it all the way into the tubing).
Being trained by a company owner, I can say I'm shocked to see see that these days most people don't take the few worthwhile seconds to polish joints before leaving. I would have been fired for that back in the day because the company's sticker couldn't be associated return incomplete work and every job was required to have that sticker attached. It's hard to be quiet (but I don't get involved when I see young guys these days usually leaving a big mess). With at many companies to compete against, the craft has become mostly a race to get to the next job.
Over heating the pipe man , you fried it !
No kidding and didn’t even cap it
First time i guess
Exactly what I was thinking 🤔
If you've never silver brazed copper lineset before, just say that. Silver brazing won't even begin to start melting until copper is at LEAST glowing red. Stick to plumbing. 😂🤣😂
Na he did good if he did overheat it you would have seen a cheeta like patern on the parts the braising material is at
This is not a good work bro soory but you disappoint me
Bro u were nowhere near the perfect brazing lol but practice makes things perfect. try again and again
Im interested in seeing one of yours .talk is cheap imo
agree. He still does not know when it is at the temperature, I know if he needs practice or nervous
So what's wrong with the joint? Its full and doesn't leak.
James Luker in terms yes, the joint is complete and wont leak but theres some things he missed, one being you have to purge nitrogen while brazzing, ik hes using a demo so these pipes arent really part of the system but he could of mentioned it since all the carbon inside could lead to a lot of problems with txv, and conpressor. Also his joints may not look like they are complete usually people like to not have the edge of the female end be sticking out, be shown, or feel it while running their nails/fingers on the joint. And this is because it can eventually cause a leak by the high pressure. So people mainly fill the edge until it doesnt show other than the melted rod. But he does know how to braze decently, and he’s probably practicing, so people really shouldnt be bashing him for this. I mean im in school learning this trade and i still dont know how to braze a joint in less than 30s or without using too much rod.
@@pedrotrejo5519 he was kinda bubblegumming the joint tho. The way that works best for me is act like you're trying to stick the rod in between the joint. And cherry red is a no no in my eyes lol. He was ready to braze when he struck the rod the second time and it melted onto the copper. But his worked and would have been fine as long as he purged nitrogen in a real life situation. He just needs more practice and he'll have it down.
I do better then you😜 and low cost😂😂
The same people who think the dull cherry red is too hot are the same people who’s braze rod sticks to the pipe when they try to fill the joint and dosent flow. The pipe must be hot enough to cause capillary action and that is usually at the temperature of cherry red
You are absolutely correct and he is on the right path if I had anything to say it would be to apply the flame to both pipe and fitting at the same time and faster to avoid oxidation the torch tip should be closer at the blue part of the flame to get to temperature
Yup you are right. These same people do not know about "liquidus temperature" and capillary action.
I see some comments and if y’all are so good at brazing.... why are y’all watching a “how to” on brazing? I understand commenting to offer advice or how you would’ve done something different, but commenting to bash and make fun, why are you here to begin with? Show us your brazing, yeah? I’m by no means good at brazing, my tail woulda used half a rod on one joint 🤣 but that’s why I’m here... to learn
I do not like to bash, but the reason that I comment is to help. This is not a good video and people are being fed bad information as well as being shown the wrong execution of brazing techniques.
Long radius 90's are preferred in HVAC....Air conditioning rated fittings are a must....Nitrogen is over rated but to be a pro must be used these days to avoid ridicule.....First you heat the pipe....Then you heat the joint and it sucks it right in.....works every time.
I work well outside the scope of welding in commercial roofing. It's a healthy endeavor to at least have a curiousity to what some of our brothers and sisters in other trades do in contribution to our projects. Thank you for sharing knowledge.
This is brazing buddy not welding, there's a huge difference between the two. But, more power to you for being a roofer, one of the most underpaid and dangerous jobs to ever have! 💪🏼
I'm with you, I'm an insulator and work with fitters and plumbers all day. Knowledge is power.
@ASAPJermz it's not that far off from welding. My old man taught me how to weld using an acelatine torch and coat hanger. The main difference is temperature and you're not melting the main metals.
If you were an apprentice on my site...you wouldnt have a job before before lunch started
2/21/2021 For a Person that wants to teach others you need to learn your self. First your torch is way to hot. You use to much solder. Second you heat the elbow then the pipe that into the elbow. Third heat on the elbow causes suction. The suction pulled the solder into the elbow. Fourth you use only the amount Solder that is needed. If you have the pipe and Elbow glowing CHERRY red the solder won't stay in the elbow. When you add heat to a glowing red Copper Pipe the solder will fall out. Add Solder to the opposite side of the copper pipe always from the heat. The elbow and pipe is hot enough, with pipe soaked from all the heat the solder will melt. Fifth if soldering be sure to Clean and de-bur the Copper ends or joints to be welded. Sand the joints with sand Paper. If brazing Copper to Copper using solder use a Acid Pipe Cleaner for Soldering. If you are brazing Copper to Copper with seal-flos 15 percent Silver Solder sand each joint of that pipe and wipe clean each end and Joint before welding. Never use any cleaner acid if welding Seal-flos. Flow 5 to 10 cubing feet of Nitrogen through the copper to stop copper sulfate (ash) building up inside the Copper Lines if used on HVAC. The Ash in the HVAC will plug the Pump and Valves on the HVAC Units. Never Braze Copper to Copper with Seal-flos without flowing Nitrogen into the lines being welded. Clean your joints after welding with a damp rag. Pressurize all you joints for leaks.
You're close - on and off on your points (made here).
Where was your nitrogen purging the pipe will be full of oxidisation now and needed to be flushed out or replaced.
For the more experienced brazer use oxygen and acetylene for better control.
But otherwise not too bad for bench work though, but too slow for site work.
I think it may not need to be purge on pipes other than medgas or refrigerant .Turbo torch comes handy with small pipes in tight spots because the flame is smaller
Hold the opening of the pipe down when you ream it. If fragments of copper go through the pipes into the compressor it's not good.
Which brazing touch is this. I need one.
Some one should give information about this touch
I always leave a link in all my videos descriptions for the items used in my videos. I will leave you a link below for the torch. Thanks for watching!
TurboTorch Kit X-4B (A/C & Refrigeration kit)
amzn.to/3b1QZ2R
I'm no HVAC pro but I've seen what happens to the inside of copper pipe when nitrogen isn't used while brazing. All those flakes can't be any good for expansion valves or anything else.
Nitrogen is only required for med gas that’s it
this is not welding.
That is how most txv fail
No you right man I just started to work in hvac and they ran nitrogen while we were brazing the copper together
i feel like you should shut the flup cup if you arent an hvac pro.
Unreliable and time consuming. Sanding and trimming. Plus there is a possibility that coper traces will get into the system and might cause blockage.
simply I'd heat pipe and use expander and join pipes then brazing.
I'd also use a small mirror to check the other side for gaps. Especially if you cannot move pipe freely
Lol
RIP to whatever you’re brazing. Way over heated. Real HVAC techs have to worry about melting valve cores, service valves, ruining TXV’s, bimetal joints, pressure switches, filter dryers, paint etc. Even if you flowed nitro it’s still ruined.
Heating up a service valve that hot will destroy it
Thanks. My first braze worked out great after viewing your tutorial. Previously I was not preparing the surfaces correctly and the pipes were not hot enough. I really had to heat them longer than expected using MAP gas.
Dammit, I am seeing your comment one year later and wonder if your equipment lasted this long if you followed this idiots directions. Never got your pipe cherry red unless you don’t like the people your doing the work for.
Bad work
Now try it on a walkin freezer coil next. to the wall, .over your head,l and you cant really see the joint your trying to braze. And $6,000 of product is starting to thaw.
Beginner- not even close
To all the pros here, I am a beginner in brazing. I have been wonder what will happen to the brazing joint after a certain of time exposed to the environment? I used a copper-based brazing alloy as the filler metal to join two pieces of carbon steel plate. What is the possible failure that may occur on the brazed plate?
It gets tricky binding ferrous and non ferrous metals. Just make sure everything is CLEAN PRIOR TO BRAZE. A bit more info on the actual rod used could provide a better answer to your question.
Your bad breezing
Ive been brazing and soldering for atleast 50 years. Today i still dont why they braze copper a/c lines, solder works fine. The high side isnt high enough to break a sodered joint. Atleast ive never seen it. I have seen brazed copper line crystallize from acetylene and leak. Soldering is much better on copper. Although brazing cast iron is a great way to make a repair. A/C only needs to be soldered folks, its easy too. Staybright solder and stayclean flux works 💯 %
Good video, you just give me a good idea.You are very smart and very brilliant.Brilliant thank you for everything
Real question is if you ran nitrogen through the tube.
There’s room for improvement here. By and large, using a turbo torch is NOT the way the vast majority of technicians braze lines . You heated up the fitting before you heated up the pipe, and that is the opposite of best practices. You heat the pipe up first so it will expand within the fitting, creating less space in between the pipe and fitting while you’re brazing. Also, personal preference here but you’re using very low silver content brazing rods, 5 is much harder to use. 15 percent silver is the industry standard.
👍👍👍👍👍
Horrible! 🤣🤣
He calls that a beautiful joint ??? HAHAHAHAHAHA, I hope this isn’t your day job there spanky !
This is not how you braze. Let me explain. When you braze you do NOT want the braze inside the fitting (that's silver solder). The braze and copper heat/cool at different rates. Having the braze inside the fitting can develop cracks over time. When you braze you want a weld around the fitting. So you can't see where the fitting ends. Essentially a crown.
Your getting it to hot.
That hurt, didn’t pull the braze into the joint, kept moving the torch around way too much, no flowing around the joint just dabbing, get the heat correct first and stay at the correct distance, heat, melt, pull into joint with the heat, fill the joint.
Practice a few before posting lol
Sorry dear, its not a professional style of brazing…. Wrong technique of brazing.. even in 5/8 pipe tooks thatmuch of time even after result disappointed
Cleaning the parts
Pre-heat no uniformly, applied brazing alloy not properly, Melted the alloy wasn't right temperature. Somewhat melted the alloy early. Drain the side too much, and the joint doesn't have enough fillet. Seems like poor penetrated into the clearance of the joint. The joint looks weak, somewhat oxidizing flame.
I always put a big puddle on the top and heat the bottom of the joint and run the braze down to seal the bottoms
Yeah just using acetylene you're heating 15' of pipe up and creating soot. Oxygen acetylene can instantly heat just the joint so you're soldered and done in seconds.
first off this isn't soldering. and secondly the entire industry uses this method and has for generations. Its easy to be critique someone behind a keyboard. union plumbers and fitters use this exact method all over the United States. The system has a service life and nobody cares about being overly anal and particular.
@@mcgman8058 so no one cares about being overly anal yet everyone I've ever met knows what brazing is but calls it soldering. There's a reason union workers do what they do, because they are crap
Bro you need to heat the pipe from the BOTTOM so when it's hot enough at the top, your solder will run all the way round it from the help of GRAVITY.
Close but no. This is why it’s called diy. Call a HVAC company guys! This would get you cooling for now but see ya in the spring! And I always here the same from everyone……. “fuckin TH-cam”
Awful.
Cleaning is nice but not necessary on new copper for Brazing.
Looks like he's using plumbing fittings. The 90 is a short radius. Refrigerant piping needs to be long radius fittings.
I appreciate that he attempts to heat the male pipe before the fitting, though he doesn't apply braze with the heat on the fitting, but rather the pipe at multiple points. Braze will flow to the heat. You need the heat on the fitting when applying braze. The joints do not have enough braze either, and it's typical to leave a slight bead around the joint.
No mention of purging with dry nitrogen during brazing. There will be carbon flakes inside that pipe that will travel through system and potentially foul the oil, plug up filter driers and other components.
Way too many mistakes to call this pro.
I’m in hvac Trade school and I’m dropping out 😂😂 this crap is not with $20 an hour rather work at McDonald’s if I’m over here killing myself mentally and physically. No more trade school for me 😂
Use nitrogen too to reduce carbon.
Good tutorial. I've been in HVACR many years and never used acetylene without oxygen so I can't opinion on whether is better but it appears that the pipe is a little bit hotter than it needs to be. Okay for pipe to pipe connections but maybe too long and too hot for heat sensitive connections like reversing valves, TXV's, service valves etc. even though a heat block paste or damp rag is implemented. I use 15% brazing rod and I find it flows much better than 5% at a lower heat. I did learn that I don't clean my copper as well as I should. Lol...
FYI..your heating method is all wrong; start with the pipe going into the fitting, heating it up first then moving back to the fitting to have the braze fill all the way into the bottom of the swage. Your method didn't braze the entire fitting and would not hold up to service..!
1/7 rule be damned. Turbo torch is going to have a problem eventually selling torch kits that outflow mc tanks.
I have had teeth pulled with less pain ,and quicker ,,and that music ,Jesus, you have obviously just watched a video on how not to braze a copper pipe
this is silver wel on copper surface..sure is easy to welding..one thing is you are making mistakes you never using welding Powder..
Real pros use oxy acetylene. Heats faster and doesn’t sound like the tanks gonna blow up…as well as it will pull the braze deeper in the joint.
will this copper self fluc rod polish to a proper copper color after sanding?
No, it will not.
you are not brazing, you are silver soldering. brazing means you are using brass or bronze. you are silver soldering or hard soldering , the results should be yellow not gray
and how to size down for the capillary?
What do you mean by size down?
look like what we called Silver Soldering when I was in New Zealand in the late 60s and early 70s, but I may be listaken
dude you torch the f*** out of that copper pipe, and you left a rim between the fitting and the pipe you should put a crown all the way around
Not good or necessary to let the copper get this hot while brazing. Should never aim to get it glowing red. Dislike
Wow there’s too many PRO commenting, but no body got the BALLS to do a video. Great job folks. Let’s a praise the algorithm for bringing us all together again
Can you show how to do it in real live? Inside of the walls,old constructions attics 7/8 line set?
I'm actually recording a video as well speak on how to do that except I will be soldering. You can apply the same principals shown in that video for brazing in a tight space. It will be released most likely tomorrow. Subscribe for more tips/tricks and stay tuned for new videos every week!
Go to school and learn how to do this properly.
6:40 and if you hold the pipe like that while deburring, the burs fall down the pipe.
I could have been in and out of there in 1/4 of the time. Your torch was whistling like the tip had something in it. I’ve used both air acetylene and ox acetylene I prefer the latter. You should have been able to get the joint up to temperature much quicker. Other than that I thought it was better than a lot of the brazing videos I’ve seen
Cool video and i think your good intention were good of showing how to braze and I give you a credit as well as pointing some stuff that was wrong. With time you'll will perfect your brazing skills. But don't use short radious 90's for refrigeration just saying.
So, would you say slow air cooling after brazing??? is better
You would be fired as a plumber 😂 you've destroyed the integrity of the copper
That pipe is oxidized lol. I couldn’t imagine holding a torch that long near a service valve
If I make the same brazing tutorial but I believe I will get les viewer than yours ... #why😅
I m an HVAC tech ( 40 years +) and this is my note : 2 / 10. Go back to school sir !
They never say what kind of rod they use. Probably the most important piece...
That was not the correct music for joining copper to copper using acetylene.
One small critique if I may. If you hold the inner flame on the joint it will heat much more efficiently and move the flame in toward the fitting as the filler follows the heat. You don’t need so much on the pipe. Also, that long under the torch seems to weaken the fitting to a degree that it easily collapses at the slightest torque
The reason the fitting collapses is because heating it cherry red and allowing it to cool annuals the metal and makes it soft. If you heat it and then hit it with a cold rag quickly, it will harden again. This is tricky as a guy in the field probably isn't controlling the temperature that accurately and quenching improperly can create cracks and internal stresses.
Jeff Peterson but quenching can cause cracks in the filler and leak
@@jeffpeterson1331aa+❤z3❤are ru fy9t9tr9lttottg6y5
Im not really an expert, but I agree. The heat draws the solder or braze in. Some of what happened here just layed more filler on yop, improving the look, but didn't likely travel in to where it counts. The idea is to work the torch to evenly heat the assembly and 123 add braze so it runs in. In some ways you only have one shot to really nail it perfect. Will still hold, but you'll have added twice the filler. Most will just be laying on top.
The teacher said something similar. Apply heat to the back of the fitting so the solder chases the heat. Got my first brazing copper project tomorrow.