It's amazing you keep them seperate per platform. IDK how many people or companies actually do that... and I appreciate you saying "see the card on ebay THATS the 1 you get" underrated.
I mainly deal with Pokemon and a little bit of Magic so my inventory is a lot smaller, but it's set up pretty similar. I sleeve any holos regardless of rarity because I live in Florida and not sleeving = big risk of curling even with a dehumidifier running, but I don't sleeve regular bulk cards at all. Something I do different (which is honestly overkill) is add extra dividers for letter groups in each set. I'm constantly forgetting where letters are in the alphabet so each set gets these six groups: A - B - C - D E - F - G H - I - J - K L - M - N - O - P Q - R - S - T - U - V W - X - Y - Z They match the alphabet song and I find it helps me place and pull cards much faster. It's a lot of extra dividers and time during set up but it saves me so much time thumbing through sets so I feel like it's worth it.
That's neat, haven't seen that before. I have in the past, when I had 4 4-rows all from the same sets of Flesh and Blood, had a separate cardstock divider for each card, helped out a lot
2:42 This is the point when I subscribed 😏 Plain and simple that's how I need my inventory to look like yesterday! Well done sir. I agree with everything I've heard so far. Really REALLY wanna go full time with cards in general but gotta make sure I have things in order and have a long way to go. Anyway awesome setup brother 👌
Neat to see how peeps sort stuff. If I was trying to run a business I would want it to be super organized. I organize my cards for fun and they are like all base cards so its easy to just write the set on the outside of the box.
I dig the notecard in the front to indicate set. I mainly sell pokemon but have started dabbling in magic, one piece, and yugioh. My inventory is currently setup for mainly pokemon cards with the set labeled on the front of the box per row, cards alphabetized within each set with tall BCW dividers to indicate the letter of the alphabet per set, if I have a lot of a set I use the normal BCW dividers to indicate the individual card (card number, name of card), rare holo and reverse holos placed behind their non-holo counterparts, I pull out all cards rarer than a holo rare and place them in a set organized box that I keep closer to my desk where all my shipping supplies are at because these cards sell 100 times faster. I found that this setup has made pulling cards for Direct RI's more seamless for me.
For TCG Player, i've grown into utilizing Pull sheets which comes with the absolute fun time of classsifying sets........ but with restarting from scratch and bulking everything out it was easier to seperate stuff to correspond with Pull sheets (meaning one box or row is magic expansion, magic supplemental and so on). Hopefully that helps out if I ever go to Direct
Great system! I only deal with Pokemon ATM but will be expanding to MtG soon. I sort my cards by Regulation Mark (makes sorting out cards that have rotated out easier, since those don't sell as quickly as cards in rotation.) Then I sort alphabetically. Sometimes I put dividers between every fifth letter (A-E, F-J, K-O, P-T, U-Z). Always looking for better ways to organize. By the way, those look like some sturdy shelves. Mind if I ask where you got them?
Honestly I got these shelves from Walmart.com. I have a link in the description of this video - it is an affiliate link, so I'll get a lil kickback if you purchase through it, but don't feel obligated to do so by any means. A quick google search for "boltless shelves" will find you lots of different ones. These were just the best deal I could find that weren't used ones from Facebook Marketplace (and so hard to provide a link for lol)
Hello again. Before my tcgplayer account was a twinkle in my eye, I kept all my bulk cards in 1,000 count card boxes. Going back and listing all my Journey Into Nyx, Khans, M15, etc, I see that close to half of the cards are in LP condition. These bulk cards that have never seen play in their life became LP due to shifting around and scrubbing the side of the box. But now that I have to list cards in a particular condition, I need my near mint cards to stay near mint. Do you ever experience that? Or how do you make sure unsleeved cards in your inventory don't degrade?
Honestly hasn't really been a problem for me. I've definitely not had half my NM cards degrade in value while sitting in boxes, even when I was shuffling through them. But for the most part the boxes have been stationary or only moved slightly, not tipped over or anything. Maybe this is more of an issue caused by them being stored in 1k count boxes, rather than larger ones? Not sure. That stinks that that's happened though, I'd be scrombling to figure something out to keep it happening again
Interesting Video. I sort MTG quite similar with 2 differences. First i added the year of printing to each setname on the dividers. So my Sets are ordered from old to new without the need moving stuff around when new sets are added. Second thing is my mtg cards are ordered also by setnumbers. In result they are color separated and every card "has its fixed place". Not sure if it could be better to order alphabetized. Maybe sorting would take longer but searching a card can go a little bit faster as you cant see the numbers in the upper part of the card. Solution can be vertical boxes that let you search the numbers quite fast.
Alphabetical order is definitely optimized for TCGplayer selling, but like I said, whatever system works for your brain is the best system you can have
Thanks for the great content, I'm always looking for ways to improve my inventory system. How do you go about adding cards to your inventory? If you were to add 1000 cards to a set that is near the middle of your MTG inventory do shift all of the cards that come after that set to make room for the new cards? Do you pull out the set that you are adding to and go through all of the existing cards to integrate your new inventory into the set? Do you do some sort of pre filter to only add cards that are in demand? I know your inventory was drastically reduced with the move, having worked on both larger and smaller inventories what kind of scaling issues have you run into? Thanks again, awesome video.
Great question. I do typically shift things around so that the new cards can be added in. I try to leave a bit of wiggle room so that I can add stuff in easily and also flip through the cards easily enough when pulling orders. If they are super tightly packed in, I can't even really look through the sets to find the correct cards to pull. I have typically just added whatever I get into inventory as fast as possible, but sometimes that creates a sizeable pocket of really slow-moving long-tail inventory, like the 10k Throne of Eldraine commons I held onto for a year, slowly chipping away at them.
I'm a weird one. Since I mostly sell Bandai card games, I have Digimon number sorted (which I wish tcgplayer supported outputting packing slips in Set then number order instead of just release date or alpha but that's neither here nor there) But I also have 2 sets of Digimon that I have sorted numerically by rarity, and everything other than Digimon (OP, Pokemon, Weiss, Wixoss) sorted alphabetically. Though I do have wixoss sorted by rarity and then alpha, why? Idk
Why does selling Bandai games push you towards sorting numerically? This is not a critique, it's a genuine question. I have some Digimon I haven't got listed yet, so I"m actually curious
@@TCGBulkKings Color is the main way bandai themselves sort their cards and they cluster them together that way. They also make it so that say digimon from the same line are typically not only the same color, but follow each other in a numerical sense that makes sense. IE Agumon might be number 11 in a set and Greymon will be 15, then Metalgreymon at 17 and Wargreymon at 20 (all made up numbers). This also helps avoid issues of accidentally sending a customer the wrong card as not only are some names very similar (Garurumon vs Gururumon), but sometimes there are 2 different color versions of the same card within a given set. For example BT12 has a Black and Red Agumon as well as a Yellow and Red Agumon. The only way someone who alpha sorts would be able to tell the difference on the packing slip is by looking at the number anyways
Very new to selling on TCG and I appreciate all your help with the content you are always posting! My question is for small parcels do you use PirateShip mostly? Or is there other options that you believe are better. Then when it comes to individual cards it would make most sense to use USPS right? Or do you use a different service? Being so new I’m trying to find the most cost effective methods. Thank you!
Haven't seen anything to beat PirateShip for parcels, and plain white envelopes are sent with stamps through USPS :thumbsup: Best of luck, and if you need other help, stay tuned, I'm always trying to make more helpful content
One thing you might want to do is go back to some of the older videos. While some of the postage costs have changed, there is still a lot of great content.
I get all my boxes, sleeves, team bags, dividers, and things like that, from BCW Supplies. There is a link in all my video descriptions getting you there, as well as a promo code to get you a 10% discount (and I also get a lil ol commission too =] )
Great video as always. Is there some sort of threshold (I.e price, scarcity, etc) that determines what goes in TCGPlayer vs eBay? As an example “Anything under $5 on tcgplayer”
I only list NM cards on TCGplayer, so if something is pricey but not in perfect condition, it will go either on Ebay or my website. As I'm getting better at listing on my website (video coming soon =] ) that label "pricey" will apply to cheaper and cheaper cards. Ebay has a systematic floor of around $1.50 just built into it, so cheaper cards than that would need to go to the website. Also planning in the future to have at least a few of each card I put on TCGplayer and BSC on the website as well.
The unsleeved cards *will* become worn over time just by wiggling about in the 5k. I sleeve everything Rare+ in magic, super rare+ in flesh and blood and so on. Only commons uncommons (crap) rares not in sleeves
It's much much slower, generally, but it's much better for selling bulk base cards as singles. I wouldn't have been able to sell those Topps Allen & Ginter cards from the short I released this morning on Ebay for $1.99 each. Two of them I had listed at $.25.
Hey I love your videos. Inspired me to open up my own shop and now I have over 5000 cards and inventory. Recently, I had someone approach me, offer me to sell stuff on commission through my TG player store. Basically they just don’t want to deal with it but their collection is worth more than liquidity I have. How would you approach this? Any suggestions on how I should store that inventory with my normal store inventory Thanks so much and keep up the amazing videos !
This is called "consignment", and it can work great. You will just have to work out how the payments will work. I have a big consignment running now, and basically we are splitting evrything after shipping and fees 50/50. And he's really not in a hurry to get his payments. It is not simple to track. The way I'm doing it is by making sure I generate a list whenever I add anything that deals with the consigned cards, so that I can get a spreadsheet to record what's listed from consignment. Then I can just take sales and compare it to the consignment list with some spreadsheet jiggery-pokery
my one question here is why sort the sets by alphabetical order and not chronological order? If I new set coming out starts with a D, you gotta move everything over both ways no?
When I had a smaller inventory, as in, could fit in just two boxes, it was easier for my brain to just keep them in alphabetical order. I can see the whole inventory at a glance, so it's not really more efficient for pulling cards to have them organized any particular way, except in how quickly I can find the set. Now that my inventory is larger (6 four-row boxes at the time I am typing this comment), they need to be in the same order that TCGplayer organizes the pullsheets, especially for Direct reimbursement invoices
@@TCGBulkKings and does tcgplayer do chronoligcal order or alphabetical ord? I am trying to organize my collection for selling on tcgplayer, getting prepared when I become a level 4 seller
@@Kodywit-AK yeah, they do reverse chronological order (asterisk). There is a list in the Direct tab that tells you the set orders for product lines in the Direct program, but basically it's Rev Chron within supertypes (e.g., standard sets, commander sets, Master sets, specialty sets, &c.)
Hello Chase, can you please tell me where you got your shelves. I like those alot better than the wire shelving we are currently using. Also, if your Magic inventory was to grow to say 250k cards would you do a 5 row for each set?
Link is in the description for the shelf units. And I don't like the 5-row boxes, I prefer the 4-rows, and I would probably still do tabs for the sets, and possibly tabs for each card if it got that serious. But I wouldn't stick to just a certain size box per set, no reason not to have more from one set and less from another, just let it flow as it will. Certainly there's a cutoff where you don't need more from a set you have plenty of, but I would just let the collection wax and wane as it would for the most part
These were from Walmart.com, I have a link to them in the description of the video =] I really like them. I know a lot of people prefer the wire rack style shelving, but I always felt like they were wearing on the boxes
whats your opinion on organizing/sorting inventory based on type or color? Ive started with selling MTG but like to sort by color and set. Ive notcied that most sort by alphabetical order and I feel like that it doesnt make sense to do it that way. But I just might just be weird haha. What are your thoughts?
The best way to sort is the way that causes you the least pain and makes the most sense to you. But if you are going higher volume sales rather than optimizing for deck building (say), then it can be more efficient to organize your inventory to match how the pull sheets will come to you from the marketplace, so that it's quicker to pull the orders
@@TCGBulkKings I do have them alphabetical by color and the way each set lists them in order. I like to go back and look at a pic of the card if I need a reference as to what it looks like. Do you think there’s a way to utilize a pull sheet while being able to pull up a pic in a sufficient manner? I’m also looking at syncing my inventory across platforms as I would like to grow my business and expand to other collectibles.
Yeah they help a lot =] They aren't too expensive, and they are pretty much all over the place. Cheapest ones I've found are from walmart.com, or you can find used ones on Facebook Marketplace all the time. These ones happen to be blue, but they would work the same as the ones I have sovrn.co/wex73l1 I do recommend getting two units and combining the shelves. Note that's an affiliate link, so if you buy through it I get a little support, but like I said, you can get these kinds of shelves in lots of places
to be honest, my sales on BSC are really slow, between 2 and 5 sales per month this year. I haven't focused a lot on adding new inventory there, as I've been pointed elsewhere, but I do make $10-25 per month there. My current thoughts on BSC are in flux right now - not sure how attached I am to continuing there or if I want to do something else. Once I do settle on something, I'll be sure to post a video about it though
2 reasons - (1) the card name is at the top of the card, so you can more easily see the name rather than the number when flipping through cards in a box; and (2) TCGplayer sorts their pullsheets by card name rather than number, so it's much easier to work through the list in the same order as the cards in the box. Of course, if card number works better for you, then do you. You can make it work that way. But many find these methods create extra efficiency
Hey Chase I was wondering if you could help me. In the past week I've had two buyers say to me that they were missing half their order. Both had two team bags in a PWE and only one team bag arrived to them. The correct amount of postage is on and enbelope was sealed normally, so I'm not completely sure where the cards are going. Have you heard or experienced anything like this?
Not run into this myself, no. Were the envelopes damaged in any way? How were they packaged - were they taped into the envelope or on an invoice? Or were they loose in the envelope? When it becomes a pattern, it may mean it's time to revisit your shipping process. Not saying this is what happened - it definitely could be a coincidence. But at least consider that there may be something you could be doing to prevent things like this happening. Best of luck~~
That's something you'll have to decide, but I try to have 2x-5x what a single customer would normally buy at once, if I'm trying to decide what a cutoff would be after which I won't add more
This is my EXACT system for sorting tcg bulk. It's the only way i can make TCGplayer work. The index card labels was genius. My sorting boxes are label graveyards nowadays 😂
A lot of wasted space. I built a drawer system. Sort of like the ikea things RNG used to use, and some others still use, but those you only have 1 5 row and 1 3 row per drawer. The first one I built could hold a max of approx 15,400 cards per drawer, with dividers and things reducing that amount slightly. 10 drawers so an absolute max of 154k cards in roughly a 36" wide, 24" deep and 57.5" height footprint... on casters. Each drawer is divided with 10 individual row ID at about 21.5" in length. So easily 140 to 150k card capacity. I made everything a little lower than the actual cards, so they stick up a bit, it's easier to grab onto. The problem is getting every single divider in each drawer is a pia. It works very well overall. The second one I built. Is basically like the Ikea things mentioned before, but instead of only having space for 1 5 row, and 1 3 row. I made it so I could use 2 5 row boxes side by side, with about an inch front to back of space to get the boxes in and out easier if I need to. It was built recently so I don't have a lot of use time of it. But I think it's going to be similar if not exact to what the Ikea solution is but a lot cheaper and more uniformity with 2 5 rows per drawer. This one has 11 drawers so figure 6k to 7k max per 5 row, that gives it a 132k to 154k max capacity. With an overall build cost a lot less than ikea. Drawer slides maybe $150, and hardwood plywood easily less than 600. You should be able to easily build one for 800 or less, probably cheaper if you can find some cheaper hardwood plywood. The footprint of the new one is 36 x 22.5 x 62". I was able to source some furniture/paint grade hardwood plywood that averaged around 0.75 to 0.875 in for what would be equal to about 30 dollars a sheet. It was not full 4x8 sheets, it was 2 to 3 pieces that made up a sheet. But was enough to do what I needed.
@@TCGBulkKings I built the last one for probably $400 or less. I don't have a ton of floor space, so this helps. It's also very convenient. The drawers are full extension. So I don't have to pull out boxes, or deal with that. Just open the drawer find the card/s and shut it. The shelves you have, both shelves were roughly 440. 2 5x row shelves put together. Alternatively you can use the wire shelves as well and get a bit more space. Those kinds of shelves sacrifice some height. But they don't slide as easily. I have one of those with 10 shelves I use as overflow right now. In the drawers I keep a max of 10 copies of a single card, anything more than that goes into overflow. For me I couldn't justify spending 2 grand on some Ikea BS that could only hold 1 5 row and 1 3 row. But I could justify spending around 500 to build another that could hold 2x 5 rows, per drawer. And yes it took more than 30 minutes, but the time spent on it was worth it. Depending on how handy you are and what tools you have available to you, it could be built in less than a day, Would say maybe 6 hours to build and a few hours to sand.
![How I Track TCGPlayer Inventory & Profitability! [ULTIMATE GUIDE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AQS99bZIRUY/mqdefault.jpg)
Smart tip with the index cards as labels!
It's amazing you keep them seperate per platform. IDK how many people or companies actually do that... and I appreciate you saying "see the card on ebay THATS the 1 you get" underrated.
I mainly deal with Pokemon and a little bit of Magic so my inventory is a lot smaller, but it's set up pretty similar. I sleeve any holos regardless of rarity because I live in Florida and not sleeving = big risk of curling even with a dehumidifier running, but I don't sleeve regular bulk cards at all. Something I do different (which is honestly overkill) is add extra dividers for letter groups in each set. I'm constantly forgetting where letters are in the alphabet so each set gets these six groups:
A - B - C - D
E - F - G
H - I - J - K
L - M - N - O - P
Q - R - S - T - U - V
W - X - Y - Z
They match the alphabet song and I find it helps me place and pull cards much faster. It's a lot of extra dividers and time during set up but it saves me so much time thumbing through sets so I feel like it's worth it.
That's neat, haven't seen that before. I have in the past, when I had 4 4-rows all from the same sets of Flesh and Blood, had a separate cardstock divider for each card, helped out a lot
2:42
This is the point when I subscribed 😏
Plain and simple that's how I need my inventory to look like yesterday!
Well done sir. I agree with everything I've heard so far. Really REALLY wanna go full time with cards in general but gotta make sure I have things in order and have a long way to go. Anyway awesome setup brother 👌
I'm humbled to hear it was so helpful for you. You may have a long way to go, but the good news is that each step is right in front of you =]
Neat to see how peeps sort stuff. If I was trying to run a business I would want it to be super organized. I organize my cards for fun and they are like all base cards so its easy to just write the set on the outside of the box.
I dig the notecard in the front to indicate set.
I mainly sell pokemon but have started dabbling in magic, one piece, and yugioh. My inventory is currently setup for mainly pokemon cards with the set labeled on the front of the box per row, cards alphabetized within each set with tall BCW dividers to indicate the letter of the alphabet per set, if I have a lot of a set I use the normal BCW dividers to indicate the individual card (card number, name of card), rare holo and reverse holos placed behind their non-holo counterparts, I pull out all cards rarer than a holo rare and place them in a set organized box that I keep closer to my desk where all my shipping supplies are at because these cards sell 100 times faster. I found that this setup has made pulling cards for Direct RI's more seamless for me.
Awesome set up! Sounds like you've got it all aligned with your brain, that's the true hack
For TCG Player, i've grown into utilizing Pull sheets which comes with the absolute fun time of classsifying sets........ but with restarting from scratch and bulking everything out it was easier to seperate stuff to correspond with Pull sheets (meaning one box or row is magic expansion, magic supplemental and so on). Hopefully that helps out if I ever go to Direct
Great system! I only deal with Pokemon ATM but will be expanding to MtG soon. I sort my cards by Regulation Mark (makes sorting out cards that have rotated out easier, since those don't sell as quickly as cards in rotation.) Then I sort alphabetically. Sometimes I put dividers between every fifth letter (A-E, F-J, K-O, P-T, U-Z). Always looking for better ways to organize. By the way, those look like some sturdy shelves. Mind if I ask where you got them?
Honestly I got these shelves from Walmart.com. I have a link in the description of this video - it is an affiliate link, so I'll get a lil kickback if you purchase through it, but don't feel obligated to do so by any means. A quick google search for "boltless shelves" will find you lots of different ones. These were just the best deal I could find that weren't used ones from Facebook Marketplace (and so hard to provide a link for lol)
Hello again. Before my tcgplayer account was a twinkle in my eye, I kept all my bulk cards in 1,000 count card boxes. Going back and listing all my Journey Into Nyx, Khans, M15, etc, I see that close to half of the cards are in LP condition. These bulk cards that have never seen play in their life became LP due to shifting around and scrubbing the side of the box. But now that I have to list cards in a particular condition, I need my near mint cards to stay near mint. Do you ever experience that? Or how do you make sure unsleeved cards in your inventory don't degrade?
Honestly hasn't really been a problem for me. I've definitely not had half my NM cards degrade in value while sitting in boxes, even when I was shuffling through them. But for the most part the boxes have been stationary or only moved slightly, not tipped over or anything. Maybe this is more of an issue caused by them being stored in 1k count boxes, rather than larger ones? Not sure. That stinks that that's happened though, I'd be scrombling to figure something out to keep it happening again
Interesting Video. I sort MTG quite similar with 2 differences. First i added the year of printing to each setname on the dividers. So my Sets are ordered from old to new without the need moving stuff around when new sets are added. Second thing is my mtg cards are ordered also by setnumbers. In result they are color separated and every card "has its fixed place". Not sure if it could be better to order alphabetized. Maybe sorting would take longer but searching a card can go a little bit faster as you cant see the numbers in the upper part of the card. Solution can be vertical boxes that let you search the numbers quite fast.
Alphabetical order is definitely optimized for TCGplayer selling, but like I said, whatever system works for your brain is the best system you can have
First, awsome indepth look at how it all woks out, thanks brotha
Glad to be useful, thanks for enjoying =]
Thanks for the great content, I'm always looking for ways to improve my inventory system. How do you go about adding cards to your inventory? If you were to add 1000 cards to a set that is near the middle of your MTG inventory do shift all of the cards that come after that set to make room for the new cards? Do you pull out the set that you are adding to and go through all of the existing cards to integrate your new inventory into the set? Do you do some sort of pre filter to only add cards that are in demand? I know your inventory was drastically reduced with the move, having worked on both larger and smaller inventories what kind of scaling issues have you run into? Thanks again, awesome video.
Great question. I do typically shift things around so that the new cards can be added in. I try to leave a bit of wiggle room so that I can add stuff in easily and also flip through the cards easily enough when pulling orders. If they are super tightly packed in, I can't even really look through the sets to find the correct cards to pull. I have typically just added whatever I get into inventory as fast as possible, but sometimes that creates a sizeable pocket of really slow-moving long-tail inventory, like the 10k Throne of Eldraine commons I held onto for a year, slowly chipping away at them.
I'm a weird one. Since I mostly sell Bandai card games, I have Digimon number sorted (which I wish tcgplayer supported outputting packing slips in Set then number order instead of just release date or alpha but that's neither here nor there)
But I also have 2 sets of Digimon that I have sorted numerically by rarity, and everything other than Digimon (OP, Pokemon, Weiss, Wixoss) sorted alphabetically. Though I do have wixoss sorted by rarity and then alpha, why? Idk
Why does selling Bandai games push you towards sorting numerically? This is not a critique, it's a genuine question. I have some Digimon I haven't got listed yet, so I"m actually curious
@@TCGBulkKings Color is the main way bandai themselves sort their cards and they cluster them together that way. They also make it so that say digimon from the same line are typically not only the same color, but follow each other in a numerical sense that makes sense. IE Agumon might be number 11 in a set and Greymon will be 15, then Metalgreymon at 17 and Wargreymon at 20 (all made up numbers). This also helps avoid issues of accidentally sending a customer the wrong card as not only are some names very similar (Garurumon vs Gururumon), but sometimes there are 2 different color versions of the same card within a given set.
For example BT12 has a Black and Red Agumon as well as a Yellow and Red Agumon. The only way someone who alpha sorts would be able to tell the difference on the packing slip is by looking at the number anyways
Very new to selling on TCG and I appreciate all your help with the content you are always posting!
My question is for small parcels do you use PirateShip mostly? Or is there other options that you believe are better. Then when it comes to individual cards it would make most sense to use USPS right? Or do you use a different service? Being so new I’m trying to find the most cost effective methods.
Thank you!
Haven't seen anything to beat PirateShip for parcels, and plain white envelopes are sent with stamps through USPS :thumbsup: Best of luck, and if you need other help, stay tuned, I'm always trying to make more helpful content
One thing you might want to do is go back to some of the older videos. While some of the postage costs have changed, there is still a lot of great content.
that's pretty organized.. my cards are all over the place..
Nice order on the cards! Where do you order the white boxes for the sets of different tcg? Are they just in one size also…
I get all my boxes, sleeves, team bags, dividers, and things like that, from BCW Supplies. There is a link in all my video descriptions getting you there, as well as a promo code to get you a 10% discount (and I also get a lil ol commission too =] )
What is the deciding factor being what TCG cards you decide to put on eBay or tcgplayer? Is there a certain price point? Age?
Mostly condition and feeling, honestly
@@TCGBulkKings thanks again! Got into direct yesterday and sold 161 cards since last night!
Great video as always. Is there some sort of threshold (I.e price, scarcity, etc) that determines what goes in TCGPlayer vs eBay? As an example “Anything under $5 on tcgplayer”
I only list NM cards on TCGplayer, so if something is pricey but not in perfect condition, it will go either on Ebay or my website. As I'm getting better at listing on my website (video coming soon =] ) that label "pricey" will apply to cheaper and cheaper cards. Ebay has a systematic floor of around $1.50 just built into it, so cheaper cards than that would need to go to the website. Also planning in the future to have at least a few of each card I put on TCGplayer and BSC on the website as well.
The unsleeved cards *will* become worn over time just by wiggling about in the 5k. I sleeve everything Rare+ in magic, super rare+ in flesh and blood and so on. Only commons uncommons (crap) rares not in sleeves
Amazing video. The content is great and is extremely informative. It helped me a ton. How good would you say buy sports cards is? Compared to eBay?
It's much much slower, generally, but it's much better for selling bulk base cards as singles. I wouldn't have been able to sell those Topps Allen & Ginter cards from the short I released this morning on Ebay for $1.99 each. Two of them I had listed at $.25.
Hey I love your videos. Inspired me to open up my own shop and now I have over 5000 cards and inventory.
Recently, I had someone approach me, offer me to sell stuff on commission through my TG player store. Basically they just don’t want to deal with it but their collection is worth more than liquidity I have. How would you approach this? Any suggestions on how I should store that inventory with my normal store inventory
Thanks so much and keep up the amazing videos !
This is called "consignment", and it can work great. You will just have to work out how the payments will work. I have a big consignment running now, and basically we are splitting evrything after shipping and fees 50/50. And he's really not in a hurry to get his payments.
It is not simple to track. The way I'm doing it is by making sure I generate a list whenever I add anything that deals with the consigned cards, so that I can get a spreadsheet to record what's listed from consignment. Then I can just take sales and compare it to the consignment list with some spreadsheet jiggery-pokery
my one question here is why sort the sets by alphabetical order and not chronological order? If I new set coming out starts with a D, you gotta move everything over both ways no?
When I had a smaller inventory, as in, could fit in just two boxes, it was easier for my brain to just keep them in alphabetical order. I can see the whole inventory at a glance, so it's not really more efficient for pulling cards to have them organized any particular way, except in how quickly I can find the set. Now that my inventory is larger (6 four-row boxes at the time I am typing this comment), they need to be in the same order that TCGplayer organizes the pullsheets, especially for Direct reimbursement invoices
@@TCGBulkKings and does tcgplayer do chronoligcal order or alphabetical ord? I am trying to organize my collection for selling on tcgplayer, getting prepared when I become a level 4 seller
@@Kodywit-AK yeah, they do reverse chronological order (asterisk). There is a list in the Direct tab that tells you the set orders for product lines in the Direct program, but basically it's Rev Chron within supertypes (e.g., standard sets, commander sets, Master sets, specialty sets, &c.)
Hello Chase, can you please tell me where you got your shelves. I like those alot better than the wire shelving we are currently using. Also, if your Magic inventory was to grow to say 250k cards would you do a 5 row for each set?
Link is in the description for the shelf units. And I don't like the 5-row boxes, I prefer the 4-rows, and I would probably still do tabs for the sets, and possibly tabs for each card if it got that serious. But I wouldn't stick to just a certain size box per set, no reason not to have more from one set and less from another, just let it flow as it will. Certainly there's a cutoff where you don't need more from a set you have plenty of, but I would just let the collection wax and wane as it would for the most part
Thanks I just ordered one with your link. Also, great idea with the notecards to not have to write on the boxes.@@TCGBulkKings
@@andrewkrause2179 thanks, I thought it up myself 😁
Can you tell me what shelves those are? Where did you pick them up?
These were from Walmart.com, I have a link to them in the description of the video =] I really like them. I know a lot of people prefer the wire rack style shelving, but I always felt like they were wearing on the boxes
whats your opinion on organizing/sorting inventory based on type or color? Ive started with selling MTG but like to sort by color and set. Ive notcied that most sort by alphabetical order and I feel like that it doesnt make sense to do it that way. But I just might just be weird haha. What are your thoughts?
The best way to sort is the way that causes you the least pain and makes the most sense to you. But if you are going higher volume sales rather than optimizing for deck building (say), then it can be more efficient to organize your inventory to match how the pull sheets will come to you from the marketplace, so that it's quicker to pull the orders
@@TCGBulkKings I do have them alphabetical by color and the way each set lists them in order. I like to go back and look at a pic of the card if I need a reference as to what it looks like. Do you think there’s a way to utilize a pull sheet while being able to pull up a pic in a sufficient manner? I’m also looking at syncing my inventory across platforms as I would like to grow my business and expand to other collectibles.
This is great advice thank you
Glad to be helpful =]
Im at close to 50k in inventory and about another 30k not yet inventoried, i wish i had shelves like that
Yeah they help a lot =] They aren't too expensive, and they are pretty much all over the place. Cheapest ones I've found are from walmart.com, or you can find used ones on Facebook Marketplace all the time. These ones happen to be blue, but they would work the same as the ones I have sovrn.co/wex73l1 I do recommend getting two units and combining the shelves. Note that's an affiliate link, so if you buy through it I get a little support, but like I said, you can get these kinds of shelves in lots of places
@@TCGBulkKings yeah shelves is my next purchase when I can. They can be pretty pricey
Are these modern bulk sets actually selling on BSC? I have probably 20k bulk I'd like to move while building up reviews/followers.
to be honest, my sales on BSC are really slow, between 2 and 5 sales per month this year. I haven't focused a lot on adding new inventory there, as I've been pointed elsewhere, but I do make $10-25 per month there. My current thoughts on BSC are in flux right now - not sure how attached I am to continuing there or if I want to do something else. Once I do settle on something, I'll be sure to post a video about it though
@@TCGBulkKings thanks for sharing.
Why should you sort pokemon by alphabetical and not card number? I'm trying to understand this! Thanks
2 reasons - (1) the card name is at the top of the card, so you can more easily see the name rather than the number when flipping through cards in a box; and (2) TCGplayer sorts their pullsheets by card name rather than number, so it's much easier to work through the list in the same order as the cards in the box.
Of course, if card number works better for you, then do you. You can make it work that way. But many find these methods create extra efficiency
Hey Chase I was wondering if you could help me. In the past week I've had two buyers say to me that they were missing half their order. Both had two team bags in a PWE and only one team bag arrived to them. The correct amount of postage is on and enbelope was sealed normally, so I'm not completely sure where the cards are going. Have you heard or experienced anything like this?
Not run into this myself, no. Were the envelopes damaged in any way? How were they packaged - were they taped into the envelope or on an invoice? Or were they loose in the envelope?
When it becomes a pattern, it may mean it's time to revisit your shipping process. Not saying this is what happened - it definitely could be a coincidence. But at least consider that there may be something you could be doing to prevent things like this happening.
Best of luck~~
@@TCGBulkKings thank you!❤️
So when does it come a time when you have too many of one card? I have 1000s of pokemon energies.
That's something you'll have to decide, but I try to have 2x-5x what a single customer would normally buy at once, if I'm trying to decide what a cutoff would be after which I won't add more
Thanks. This gives me some good ideas.
Glad to hear it, that's what I'm all about
This is my EXACT system for sorting tcg bulk. It's the only way i can make TCGplayer work.
The index card labels was genius. My sorting boxes are label graveyards nowadays 😂
Right? It get's weird to have 9 things crossed out or whatever lol
Good video
A lot of wasted space. I built a drawer system. Sort of like the ikea things RNG used to use, and some others still use, but those you only have 1 5 row and 1 3 row per drawer. The first one I built could hold a max of approx 15,400 cards per drawer, with dividers and things reducing that amount slightly. 10 drawers so an absolute max of 154k cards in roughly a 36" wide, 24" deep and 57.5" height footprint... on casters. Each drawer is divided with 10 individual row ID at about 21.5" in length. So easily 140 to 150k card capacity. I made everything a little lower than the actual cards, so they stick up a bit, it's easier to grab onto. The problem is getting every single divider in each drawer is a pia. It works very well overall. The second one I built. Is basically like the Ikea things mentioned before, but instead of only having space for 1 5 row, and 1 3 row. I made it so I could use 2 5 row boxes side by side, with about an inch front to back of space to get the boxes in and out easier if I need to. It was built recently so I don't have a lot of use time of it. But I think it's going to be similar if not exact to what the Ikea solution is but a lot cheaper and more uniformity with 2 5 rows per drawer. This one has 11 drawers so figure 6k to 7k max per 5 row, that gives it a 132k to 154k max capacity. With an overall build cost a lot less than ikea. Drawer slides maybe $150, and hardwood plywood easily less than 600. You should be able to easily build one for 800 or less, probably cheaper if you can find some cheaper hardwood plywood. The footprint of the new one is 36 x 22.5 x 62". I was able to source some furniture/paint grade hardwood plywood that averaged around 0.75 to 0.875 in for what would be equal to about 30 dollars a sheet. It was not full 4x8 sheets, it was 2 to 3 pieces that made up a sheet. But was enough to do what I needed.
That's cool. Alternatively, these shelves units, doubled up, are about $110 each shipped, and take about 30 min to put together
@@TCGBulkKings I built the last one for probably $400 or less. I don't have a ton of floor space, so this helps. It's also very convenient. The drawers are full extension. So I don't have to pull out boxes, or deal with that. Just open the drawer find the card/s and shut it. The shelves you have, both shelves were roughly 440. 2 5x row shelves put together. Alternatively you can use the wire shelves as well and get a bit more space. Those kinds of shelves sacrifice some height. But they don't slide as easily. I have one of those with 10 shelves I use as overflow right now. In the drawers I keep a max of 10 copies of a single card, anything more than that goes into overflow. For me I couldn't justify spending 2 grand on some Ikea BS that could only hold 1 5 row and 1 3 row. But I could justify spending around 500 to build another that could hold 2x 5 rows, per drawer. And yes it took more than 30 minutes, but the time spent on it was worth it. Depending on how handy you are and what tools you have available to you, it could be built in less than a day, Would say maybe 6 hours to build and a few hours to sand.