Brill you proved it can be done without removing shaft making life easier thank you for creating a very useful video. The only point I would mention is at times a bit dark ie lack of light making it harder to see but under that heat well done.
LOL I am amazed at how hot it gets in Canada. I remember it being over 100 degrees in Whitehorse. AND being locked out of my car. luckily at Mcdonald’s so we could cool down and restroom. LOL
Hey awesome! Do you think a properly made diy tool like yours could get the castle nut off if you used heat? I'm assuming you have to make it near perfect so all 4 tabs engage. I have the hub from the newer MLs with the larger brake disc and multi pot brembo non floating caliper to put on and I want to remove my old lower ball joints and install them in the new hubs. I hope my 4-ETS system will still work with the larger brakes in the front. I'm not sure if they had a different proportioning valve or if they require the rear calipers too for balance. I'm hoping to do this mod to help off road with (much) larger tires. I wonder if the newer 4ETS computer will work on my older 99 ML 430
the tool should get the castle nut off ... mine worked fine . took about 5 mins with a grinder , Possibly the ML55 amg w163 brakes would be an easier swap . They are much larger than the stock w163 brakes
I suggest reading the blogs in their entirety. I used these blog posts to do tranny fluid change! :) Transmission: mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w163/334898-full-w163-transmission-fluid-change.html (Transmission) Torque Converter: www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1271227-change-not-change-ml320-transmission-fluid.html
On my 2001 ML320 the rear ball joints require a smaller 'ball joint socket' size. The front ball joints are larger. The sockets cost about $10 USD each. Best to buy the tools. The factory Ball joints are pressed in. The replacements use the special socket to 'pull' the new one into place. The amount of force to pull the new ball joint into place, is significant. Freeze the ball joints and get ready for a work-out.
@@fupabox If the spindle is removed getting the ball joint out is a breeze. Lay the spindle flat on the floor, take a 2 lb. hammer, take a good aim and strike the bottom of the ball joint firmly. First strike may not seem to do anything. Keep hitting it and it will begin move. A little PB Blaster can't hurt. This is the recommended procedure for us mere mortals. MB techs have special tools that save time (and money) that allow servicing with the spindle on the vehicle. If the Ball joint is worn, then the bearings may also be at the end of life. So, taking the spindle unit off saves a lot of grunt work. Press in a bearing and replace the ball joint. But be prepared to re-torque the axle nut to 360 lb/ft. That's a lot. It will take a 5 ft. cheater bar and a special torque wrench capable of that torque. I use an electric device with a beep when the preset torque is reached (Amazon-eBay). Still it's a hard pull. I'm a "pro-am hobby mechanic" and I buy the tools needed to maintain Mercedes, BMW, Porsche as well as vehicles of a lesser god. The complete set of ball joint service tools for the ML and others is available for between $70 and $200 (scam) same tool set on eBay and Amazon. Shop carefully. It works. The price of having one ball joint replaced pays for the tool. The other three joints are now cheap. Heck, sell the tool on eBay if you really think you will never need it again. Carry on.
Great video. But min doesn't have castellated nut on original worn ball joint. New one does have nut and thread. Are original ones just pressed in or is there a circlip or snapring.
no snap ring or circlip.. the castellated nut pulls the tapered balljoint in and retains it. I wonder if yours came off somehow, and the weight of the truck is just keeping it in ?
How did you get the ball joint out did you strike it upward after removing the castle nut.. and how did it go back in .. upwards castle nit on then top nut then torque down?
Yeah this is the bit I'm stuck on, which you totally skipped in this video. I have the top released and the nut off, and the bottom released and nut off. But how do you actually extract the released balljoint from the hub and arm. On mine there isn't enough clearance to release either end of the balljoint. I've jacked up the lower arm, and press down on the hub, but the balljoint needs about another inch of clearance to get either end out. Do I have to release the upper balljoint to get the hub to drop more? Or can the lower part of the balljoint be pushed upwards and slid out that way? Its really frustrating that this part is skipped in your otherwise helpful video. I think mine may have been lifted by a previous owner at the front torsion bars so maybe thats why I can't get it out. EDIT: I've done it now. I had to release the upper balljoint to be able to get enough clearance to remove the lower balljoint.
nothing special for pressing it in .. the large castellated nut pulls the ball joint base into the spindle..there is a special tool for removing that castellated nut but hard to find one . If you wanted to fabricate your own ,the inner diameter would be 52mm....60mm outer
I actually found one in my local auto parts store on blow out sale for $10 !! a few months ago . Thanks for the link , should help some people find it .
![How to change front ball joint on MERCEDES ML W163 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/H-whx8SefT4/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to change front ball joint on MERCEDES ML W163 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/tr.png)
Brill you proved it can be done without removing shaft making life easier thank you for creating a very useful video. The only point I would mention is at times a bit dark ie lack of light making it harder to see but under that heat well done.
Great video. Thank you. Gotta do mine before dealer will test drive. Unsafe so this video is very practical and straight to the point.
Just replaced worn lower ball-joints today and watching your vids was very helpful. Thanks for that like always.
:)
LOL I am amazed at how hot it gets in Canada. I remember it being over 100 degrees in Whitehorse. AND being locked out of my car. luckily at Mcdonald’s so we could cool down and restroom. LOL
oh yeah.. and steamy on top of it . :)
Thank you for this very helpfull video!
Super helpful as always! 💪
Excellent video, I have to do this job soon on my Ml front and rear, thanks for the advice
I have to do this job very soon,thanks for the tips
Hey awesome!
Do you think a properly made diy tool like yours could get the castle nut off if you used heat? I'm assuming you have to make it near perfect so all 4 tabs engage.
I have the hub from the newer MLs with the larger brake disc and multi pot brembo non floating caliper to put on and I want to remove my old lower ball joints and install them in the new hubs.
I hope my 4-ETS system will still work with the larger brakes in the front. I'm not sure if they had a different proportioning valve or if they require the rear calipers too for balance. I'm hoping to do this mod to help off road with (much) larger tires.
I wonder if the newer 4ETS computer will work on my older 99 ML 430
the tool should get the castle nut off ... mine worked fine . took about 5 mins with a grinder , Possibly the ML55 amg w163 brakes would be an easier swap . They are much larger than the stock w163 brakes
awesome!!!, maybe in the future you can make video on how to change transmission fluid, filter on the ML.
I suggest reading the blogs in their entirety. I used these blog posts to do tranny fluid change! :)
Transmission:
mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w163/334898-full-w163-transmission-fluid-change.html
(Transmission) Torque Converter:
www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1271227-change-not-change-ml320-transmission-fluid.html
On my 2001 ML320 the rear ball joints require a smaller 'ball joint socket' size. The front ball joints are larger. The sockets cost about $10 USD each. Best to buy the tools. The factory Ball joints are pressed in. The replacements use the special socket to 'pull' the new one into place. The amount of force to pull the new ball joint into place, is significant. Freeze the ball joints and get ready for a work-out.
Agreed.. the $10 socket is worth every penny, and yes the rears are smaller . I haven't tried to press a factory one out , but sounds like a bi**h
@@fupabox If the spindle is removed getting the ball joint out is a breeze. Lay the spindle flat on the floor, take a 2 lb. hammer, take a good aim and strike the bottom of the ball joint firmly. First strike may not seem to do anything. Keep hitting it and it will begin move. A little PB Blaster can't hurt. This is the recommended procedure for us mere mortals. MB techs have special tools that save time (and money) that allow servicing with the spindle on the vehicle. If the Ball joint is worn, then the bearings may also be at the end of life. So, taking the spindle unit off saves a lot of grunt work. Press in a bearing and replace the ball joint. But be prepared to re-torque the axle nut to 360 lb/ft. That's a lot. It will take a 5 ft. cheater bar and a special torque wrench capable of that torque. I use an electric device with a beep when the preset torque is reached (Amazon-eBay). Still it's a hard pull.
I'm a "pro-am hobby mechanic" and I buy the tools needed to maintain Mercedes, BMW, Porsche as well as vehicles of a lesser god. The complete set of ball joint service tools for the ML and others is available for between $70 and $200 (scam) same tool set on eBay and Amazon. Shop carefully. It works. The price of having one ball joint replaced pays for the tool. The other three joints are now cheap. Heck, sell the tool on eBay if you really think you will never need it again. Carry on.
Great video. But min doesn't have castellated nut on original worn ball joint. New one does have nut and thread. Are original ones just pressed in or is there a circlip or snapring.
no snap ring or circlip.. the castellated nut pulls the tapered balljoint in and retains it. I wonder if yours came off somehow, and the weight of the truck is just keeping it in ?
glad i found this before i need to do this.. thanks
Hi, when you cut of the cascading nut which size blade did you use, and were there any sparks flying when you cut the nut off,
just a 2mm metal cutting wheel. yes sparks go flying so angle the cut off wheel so te sparks shoot away from the car
@@fupabox okay thanks
How did you get the ball joint out did you strike it upward after removing the castle nut.. and how did it go back in .. upwards castle nit on then top nut then torque down?
correct
Yeah this is the bit I'm stuck on, which you totally skipped in this video. I have the top released and the nut off, and the bottom released and nut off. But how do you actually extract the released balljoint from the hub and arm. On mine there isn't enough clearance to release either end of the balljoint. I've jacked up the lower arm, and press down on the hub, but the balljoint needs about another inch of clearance to get either end out. Do I have to release the upper balljoint to get the hub to drop more? Or can the lower part of the balljoint be pushed upwards and slid out that way? Its really frustrating that this part is skipped in your otherwise helpful video. I think mine may have been lifted by a previous owner at the front torsion bars so maybe thats why I can't get it out.
EDIT: I've done it now. I had to release the upper balljoint to be able to get enough clearance to remove the lower balljoint.
Nice job my friend
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent! Thank you!
Hye there , is there any special tool to press in the ball joint into the knuckle ? If yes , what is the inner diameter for the special tool ?
nothing special for pressing it in .. the large castellated nut pulls the ball joint base into the spindle..there is a special tool for removing that castellated nut but hard to find one . If you wanted to fabricate your own ,the inner diameter would be 52mm....60mm outer
Great ! Thanks for your kind reply . I am really appreciate it.
I have a low thump every time i turn left, could this be the ball joints?
yes, or sway bar bushing ,or an upper arm bushing or ball joint ..
hi,can you provide the part number for those ball joint? thanks
163 330 01 35
fupabox thanks! awesome work!
👍👍👌😎
Seems your not removing this right
well good job but nobody can see you are very good mechanic but very bad cameraman
I'm a terrible cameraman, I do apologize
Get on with it! 3mins in and you've only just started!
The ball joint tool is about $46 from FCP Euro. Here is the link:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-ball-joint-socket-cta-manufacturing-1082
I actually found one in my local auto parts store on blow out sale for $10 !! a few months ago . Thanks for the link , should help some people find it .
0:33x.