Hey Uncle Mark I thought I'd let you know about the issue I was having with my van it's a 62te and it had limp mode. I believe it is the transmission range sensor the way I got it to stop going in limp mode this time was moving the shifter knob up and down about 50 times. It seems to have stayed out of limp mode for now. The transmission range sensor has about five connector points where it connects. I believe these points get corroded and over time with lack of maintenance especially they go out my transmission has 260,000 miles on it
Hoping to actually fix the problem. I just reinstalled the old EGR valve. Have a $1000 scanner on order, hoping to (force) bi-direction operate the valve open & closed and hopefully get it free moving again. Otherwise, I guess new valve will be ordered.
Sorry, I thought I had them listed! Here they are, USA links: 🔧 Stubby dual 1/4 inch & 3/8 inch ratchet with soft handle: amzn.to/40Qjn2J 🔧 Stubby dual 1/4 inch & 3/8 inch ratchet CHROME HANDLE: amzn.to/3SW9z52 , or CANADIAN links: 🔧 Stubby dual 1/4 inch & 3/8 inch ratchet wit soft handle: amzn.to/3SW6B0E 🔧 Stubby dual 1/4 inch & 3/8 inch ratchet CHROME HANDLE: amzn.to/3QXB7V8 OR amzn.to/3uFer4o. FYI, As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Thought something like that. It is a cheap scanner. I should see if my more expensive one does the same. I have on order a "professional" lol scanner that should be here soon. Probably Chinese copy cat of something real...it is a Thinktool pro $999.00. Hope it can do some of the thing I want to be able to do.
Great video, I'm about to tackle this and it was very helpful. I'm curious if you ever installed the new one as you mentioned in a comment below, and if you did, did it solve any problems? (My 09 GC has 155K mi. on it, and shakes while idling even in neutral. Replacing PCV valve actually helped a bit, now I'm going to try this. Could probably use it anyway!)
I did install the new one. It has been fine ever since! Question, did you ever do a cylinder balance test? Try unplugging each coil one by one, and see if it gets worst, or stays the same. The one that makes no difference may have a bad spark plug, or burnt valve. If you find a bad cylinder, compression test it next. My boss and his family have 3 GC all with over 200k miles and they all still run great. Let us know what you find out. You can also email me if you want, address in my about section of the channel.
@@unclemarksdiyauto Those are good ideas. I've looked at what's involved ing changing spark plugs and/or coils. If it's the same just to unplug a coil, it seems like a very involved process! Would those conditions cause a misfire code? It's never had one of those. And - I had the spark plugs changed at about 110K.) Based on your video, I got under the hood to see what's involved with the EGR, and that seems much more doable for me. Also, it occasionally stalls right after starting, which is supposedly another symptom of a bad EGR valve. I'll definitely provide updates as I go along.
@@freecycling6687 You are probably right. A shop could do this with their scan tool, asking each cylinder to shut off and turn back on. Not sure if you have any good shops close by that also are relatively cheap. Although I realize that defeats the purpose of trying to do it yourself.
@@unclemarksdiyauto That's probably the best bet, there's one shop nearby that's good but they ain't cheap. But maybe they'll do that test for reasonable $$.
Not a easy answer. If room, can you hammer on a smaller socket that might fit. (6 point socket not a 12 point) Then some would try to heat the on the body of the valve, not the nut. Then try to remove nut. In reality, you might have to bring it to a shop and they can use all their tricks to get it off.
I have a 2011 Dodge Caravan it has 114,014 miles I can smell on the outside of gas and on the inside I can smell gad when I crank it up when I have the ac/heat on? What could it be?
I am not sure what it could be. You should not have a gas smell, so I would have it checked out immediately. This could be dangerous if something is leaking. Even if nothing is leaking, it is not good if the engine is getting too much gas. Have a trusted shop look into it and be safe my friend! Let us know what you find out.
Its always scary doing those on the older model especially if they rusted out. Good work my friend.
Thanks J.T., but it is still broken! Hoping to bi- directional test it and hope to unstick it. Otherwise, a new one going in!
Hey Uncle Mark I thought I'd let you know about the issue I was having with my van it's a 62te and it had limp mode. I believe it is the transmission range sensor the way I got it to stop going in limp mode this time was moving the shifter knob up and down about 50 times. It seems to have stayed out of limp mode for now. The transmission range sensor has about five connector points where it connects. I believe these points get corroded and over time with lack of maintenance especially they go out my transmission has 260,000 miles on it
Uncle Mark u do job wih so precison . really appreciate it . U earned a new sub !!!
You are too kind! I hope my videos are of help to someone. Thanks for watching Krishna.
Great work and video Uncle Mark - thanks for sharing :)
Hoping to actually fix the problem. I just reinstalled the old EGR valve. Have a $1000 scanner on order, hoping to (force) bi-direction operate the valve open & closed and hopefully get it free moving again. Otherwise, I guess new valve will be ordered.
Exelent video
Hope it was helpful, jhonny. Lots more videos to come on this van!
Great video! I’m not finding the link to the nifty little ratchet? Could you post ?
Sorry, I thought I had them listed! Here they are, USA links: 🔧 Stubby dual 1/4 inch & 3/8 inch ratchet with soft handle: amzn.to/40Qjn2J 🔧 Stubby dual 1/4 inch & 3/8 inch ratchet CHROME HANDLE: amzn.to/3SW9z52 , or CANADIAN links: 🔧 Stubby dual 1/4 inch & 3/8 inch ratchet wit soft handle: amzn.to/3SW6B0E 🔧 Stubby dual 1/4 inch & 3/8 inch ratchet CHROME HANDLE: amzn.to/3QXB7V8 OR amzn.to/3uFer4o. FYI, As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Good job
Thanks backwoods3214. I have a update to this video coming out later this year.
your scanner is interfering with bus communication to TIPM witch controls wipers.
Thought something like that. It is a cheap scanner. I should see if my more expensive one does the same. I have on order a "professional" lol scanner that should be here soon. Probably Chinese copy cat of something real...it is a Thinktool pro $999.00. Hope it can do some of the thing I want to be able to do.
Great video, I'm about to tackle this and it was very helpful. I'm curious if you ever installed the new one as you mentioned in a comment below, and if you did, did it solve any problems? (My 09 GC has 155K mi. on it, and shakes while idling even in neutral. Replacing PCV valve actually helped a bit, now I'm going to try this. Could probably use it anyway!)
I did install the new one. It has been fine ever since! Question, did you ever do a cylinder balance test? Try unplugging each coil one by one, and see if it gets worst, or stays the same. The one that makes no difference may have a bad spark plug, or burnt valve. If you find a bad cylinder, compression test it next. My boss and his family have 3 GC all with over 200k miles and they all still run great. Let us know what you find out. You can also email me if you want, address in my about section of the channel.
@@unclemarksdiyauto Those are good ideas. I've looked at what's involved ing changing spark plugs and/or coils. If it's the same just to unplug a coil, it seems like a very involved process! Would those conditions cause a misfire code? It's never had one of those. And - I had the spark plugs changed at about 110K.) Based on your video, I got under the hood to see what's involved with the EGR, and that seems much more doable for me. Also, it occasionally stalls right after starting, which is supposedly another symptom of a bad EGR valve. I'll definitely provide updates as I go along.
@@freecycling6687 You are probably right. A shop could do this with their scan tool, asking each cylinder to shut off and turn back on. Not sure if you have any good shops close by that also are relatively cheap. Although I realize that defeats the purpose of trying to do it yourself.
@@unclemarksdiyauto That's probably the best bet, there's one shop nearby that's good but they ain't cheap. But maybe they'll do that test for reasonable $$.
@@freecycling6687 They may have suggestions as to what to look / test first.
What do you do if the 10mm bolt is stripped? How do you get it out?
Not a easy answer. If room, can you hammer on a smaller socket that might fit. (6 point socket not a 12 point) Then some would try to heat the on the body of the valve, not the nut. Then try to remove nut. In reality, you might have to bring it to a shop and they can use all their tricks to get it off.
I have a 2011 Dodge Caravan it has 114,014 miles I can smell on the outside of gas and on the inside I can smell gad when I crank it up when I have the ac/heat on? What could it be?
I am not sure what it could be. You should not have a gas smell, so I would have it checked out immediately. This could be dangerous if something is leaking. Even if nothing is leaking, it is not good if the engine is getting too much gas. Have a trusted shop look into it and be safe my friend! Let us know what you find out.
@@unclemarksdiyauto it was the Canister Purge Valve
@@zigzag95. Ah. Nice you figured it out and got it fixed. Did a shop do it or you figured it out yourself?
@@unclemarksdiyauto figured it out myself
Nice!
What would you do if one of the bolts are stripped?
Lilly, did you see my comment on your 2nd question?
🔽 Check out other videos in the Grand Caravan series! 🔽
th-cam.com/play/PLgeVnQRQkbzBxJXNmFL9XwSTFcXcj0GQj.html