Great video bro. I got my Trigger Plus 4 Friday and I was working on it today. I do think you may have said the wrong fuse location though. I originally hooked my add a circuit to F37 and it didn't do anything for the Trigger. So I went back to your video to see what I might have done wrong and after watching this several times it looks like you actually put the add-a-circuit to F38. The middle fuse position is F38 according to the diagram under the fuse cover. I changed the location to where you had it and it worked just like you said. Not a big deal because I figured it out but I just wanted to share it with you for the sake of others. Thanks again for an awesome video!
Cool vid man we are kinda doing the same mod right now but I went with the Switch-Pros and have to run a wire into the cab, you build is coming along nicely good video
@@HammerdownMotorsportsUSA now that I think about I can't remember the last time I used the cell phone mounts... Project sounds fun! BTW feel free to send some of those subscribers my way! I can use some more eyes on my work.
@@WaterFowler41 see what I can do It has taken some time to grow for me but If you keep the uploads coming subs do as well and the search must be working since that's how I found your channel
I realize this is an older video and you no longer have your Rebel, but have watched many of your Ram 1500 mod videos for help on my 24 Big Horn. About ready to install a kill switch but figured while I running wires through firewall etc; i'd install a switch panel to give me a base for future installs of grill lights and other accessories. Plus can use the switch panel for my AMP steps, air compressor that currently all run to my battery. I see you mentioned a Power Distribution Box which i'm not familiar with. Today, do you recommend I install a similar box to go with my switch panel? Anything I should be aware of in terms of capabilities of a power distribution box in I'm installing a 8 gang switch panel. Appreciate your time. Greg
Nice install, enjoy your vids. Noticed that you connected the controller ground to the battery post, bypassing the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor). This could impact IBS functionality when the controller is active. Did you do this intentionally? A few of us 1500 owners have been researching IBS specs in context with truck powered winches which can pull upwards of 400-500 amps. The draw from your aux lights would be within the ~200 amp spec of the 1500 (Bosch) IBS such that you could connect the controller to the IBS post and maintain IBS functionality.
Great video - I’ve watched it a couple times. I just purchased the Trigger plus this morning. A couple questions I thought you might be able to help with - the Trigger box references two harnesses - a 10 gauge and 12 yet the install instructions reference 12 and 14 gauge harnesses. You mentioned the 10 gauge to the 30 amp output and 12 to the 10 amp output. The Trigger install instructions indicated the 30 amp should use the 12 gauge and 10 amp should use the 14 g harness. Thoughts?? Also I’m starting with using the Trigger for two light bar KC Lights 55w that have 16 gauge wiring with an in-line 20 amp fuse. Should I use the 10 gauge or 12 gauge harness ? Appreciate any thoughts. Again great video.
After watching this and every other Trigger 4 Plus videos numerous times I've finally ordered one. One question that always tugged on my what if brain. The wire for your light bar that you ran across the top support to the passenger side, could you have flipped the light bar over and wired it from the driver side? Not sure, but most light bars can go either way. Just playing Monday morning quarterback here. I picked up the 30" brackets and will conquer all once the weather breaks to steady 60's (carport mechanic). Keep up your excellent videos, they do help us get the nerve to conquer without fear.
Dude! I am doing the same thing even before I watched your videos! I am going to be running a Blazer Link Controlled System instead of the Trigger. (It is 1/4th of the cost, and can be controlled via an app and works through bluetooth.) It is only a 2-channel, but it will run my light bar in front and light pods on my sports bar. Hopefully i get around to installing everything this weekend. But crazy technology!
I definitely like that trigger. I wonder if you can program a new switch to it… Depending on frequency, if you can program to it, then you might be able to program the homelink buttons to it. How cool would that be (as long as you only need 3)
Great installation! Man, I need to stop watching these videos. Loving all these toys that I could install on my new Rebel. However my wife would kill me if I did anything right now. Time to replenish my truck slush fund. 😂 Pretty much depleted after buying the truck.
The positive wire feeds the controller with have 4 fused circuits. I connected the trigger to my fuse distribution block because it was the easiest was to get power. It’s fused so a bit redundant but won’t harm anything by having multiple fuses so long as they are coordinated correctly.
Awesome and thorough video as always WF! Question, is that OZ connector that you have sitting in the L channel underneath waterproof or do you think it should be wrapped?
Pat sy thanks! The OZ connection is gasketed so it’s waterproof. Like most connection I wouldn’t want to submerge it but it can handle the snow build up and melt fine. Been using them for a while. As always thanks for the compliments!
Ok. Might be a dumb question. But I just bought this thing today with a pair of Baja squadron lights. They're 2.2 amps each. Can I run both to one circuit so both turn on with same switch?
Brother I love the video and doing projects with my dad like this are what makes it great. I had a question. I am looking to wire one of the Rough Country light bars with the drl option into my tacoma bumper. I am looking at this trigger 4 plus wireless system so u don’t have to run wires into the cab. What I’m wonder8ng is do the drl and main lights have their own positive and neg wires or at least 2 positive wires? I’ll be bypassing the switch and likely the relay as my wireless switch system will have that built in. I just wanted to be able to run each function to its own switch. The DRL and the main high beam. Hope that makes sense ?
On my light bar the drl and main light each had their own positive but they share a negative. I have another video showing how I ran a separate drl circuit with a new relay to power the drl in the light bar while I allowed the trigger to control the main light.
@@WaterFowler41 is there a way I can run the drl to the trigger 4 plus so that I could use one of those switches to light up the DRL? And the relays that come with the rough country harness did u use theirs when u wired in the bar or did u essentially cut the wire before them since the trigger 4 plus has its own relays. Hope that makes sense ? Basically I just wanna use one of the other switches on the trigger system to turn on my DRL independently.
Yes, first though i did not use the rough country light bar. Mine is an OZ-USA. But yes, you can certainly use one of the triggers outputs for drl and the other for the main. Since the light bar only has one ground, I would run the ground directly to the chassis then just use the positive (red) wires to get your two circuits.
Ahhh yup I ran a separate relay in a later video to drive some drl lights. Here’s where I finish up the relay for that project. th-cam.com/video/48l9F9ott7Y/w-d-xo.html
Hi man thanks for all the videos, very helpful. Would be able to tell me about the small box you connected the red wire to. I noticed that you did not connected straight to the battery. And Any info would be great as I am in the same process of installing the 6 shooter. Thxxxxxx
The trigger is velcro’ed to the the top of my fuse box and the switch is located in my cab. It’s also velcroed so I can remove it easily when I need to replace batteries.
Great Video, how do you feel about the Trigger 4 Plus after having it for a while now & have you hooked anything else up to it yet? Thanks, I'm looking for either the trigger 4 plus or using the HomeLink buttons for a light bar.
Yup I have my reverse lights, a pillar pods, and light bar on 3 of the channels. The switches have certainly loosened up over time and they operate like normal toggles now. The trigger 4 plus is great. I got 1 year out of the OEM batteries in the switch bank.
@@WaterFowler41 you are the man I appreciate it. Also that schoshe power block. I’m new to all the wiring I use to bring it to the mechanic now I want to be an adult and do it myself. I see the power from the trigger 4 goes up top. Does that grey wire on the other side of the power block go to the car battery.
The scosche thing is a single in dual out fuse holder. I have a small length of wire from the battery to the fuse then that’s where my trigger and stereo amp get power.
@@WaterFowler41 Great Thank you - The second question why didn't you flip the light bar so the power wire for the LED light bar came out on the right side so you didn't have to run wire across the top of the radiator and then down
The app was a nice to have feature but for quick action of the lights, the app is clunky as well. I ended up replacing this light switch with an AUXBEAM RGB 8-gang unit. Yes it wired but the response and quality of the switch panel is great compared to the trigger 4 channel.
Great video bro. I got my Trigger Plus 4 Friday and I was working on it today. I do think you may have said the wrong fuse location though. I originally hooked my add a circuit to F37 and it didn't do anything for the Trigger. So I went back to your video to see what I might have done wrong and after watching this several times it looks like you actually put the add-a-circuit to F38. The middle fuse position is F38 according to the diagram under the fuse cover. I changed the location to where you had it and it worked just like you said. Not a big deal because I figured it out but I just wanted to share it with you for the sake of others. Thanks again for an awesome video!
Great video, smart to wire to ignition and not constant power. Wireless accessories drain batteries like crazy in my experience
Cool vid man we are kinda doing the same mod right now but I went with the Switch-Pros and have to run a wire into the cab, you build is coming along nicely good video
Nice! Where are you mounting the switch panel at?
@@WaterFowler41 on the passenger side of the phone holder since that never gets used anyway don't even use the driver side to be honest
@@HammerdownMotorsportsUSA now that I think about I can't remember the last time I used the cell phone mounts...
Project sounds fun! BTW feel free to send some of those subscribers my way! I can use some more eyes on my work.
@@WaterFowler41 see what I can do It has taken some time to grow for me but If you keep the uploads coming subs do as well and the search must be working since that's how I found your channel
I realize this is an older video and you no longer have your Rebel, but have watched many of your Ram 1500 mod videos for help on my 24 Big Horn. About ready to install a kill switch but figured while I running wires through firewall etc; i'd install a switch panel to give me a base for future installs of grill lights and other accessories. Plus can use the switch panel for my AMP steps, air compressor that currently all run to my battery. I see you mentioned a Power Distribution Box which i'm not familiar with. Today, do you recommend I install a similar box to go with my switch panel? Anything I should be aware of in terms of capabilities of a power distribution box in I'm installing a 8 gang switch panel. Appreciate your time. Greg
Can I ask for another update. I keep being turned away because of alot of issues. I really wanna like this .
Nice install, enjoy your vids. Noticed that you connected the controller ground to the battery post, bypassing the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor). This could impact IBS functionality when the controller is active. Did you do this intentionally?
A few of us 1500 owners have been researching IBS specs in context with truck powered winches which can pull upwards of 400-500 amps. The draw from your aux lights would be within the ~200 amp spec of the 1500 (Bosch) IBS such that you could connect the controller to the IBS post and maintain IBS functionality.
Great tutorial. Can you let us know what power distribution block you have there please?
I used a scosche dual fuse block
@@WaterFowler41 thank you sir
What fuse did you use?
Jesuel Rosa Castillo f37
What amp fuse did you use for the scosche fuse block?
Great video - I’ve watched it a couple times. I just purchased the Trigger plus this morning. A couple questions I thought you might be able to help with - the Trigger box references two harnesses - a 10 gauge and 12 yet the install instructions reference 12 and 14 gauge harnesses. You mentioned the 10 gauge to the 30 amp output and 12 to the 10 amp output. The Trigger install instructions indicated the 30 amp should use the 12 gauge and 10 amp should use the 14 g harness. Thoughts??
Also I’m starting with using the Trigger for two light bar KC Lights 55w that have 16 gauge wiring with an in-line 20 amp fuse. Should I use the 10 gauge or 12 gauge harness ? Appreciate any thoughts. Again great video.
After watching this and every other Trigger 4 Plus videos numerous times I've finally ordered one. One question that always tugged on my what if brain. The wire for your light bar that you ran across the top support to the passenger side, could you have flipped the light bar over and wired it from the driver side? Not sure, but most light bars can go either way. Just playing Monday morning quarterback here. I picked up the 30" brackets and will conquer all once the weather breaks to steady 60's (carport mechanic). Keep up your excellent videos, they do help us get the nerve to conquer without fear.
Dude! I am doing the same thing even before I watched your videos! I am going to be running a Blazer Link Controlled System instead of the Trigger. (It is 1/4th of the cost, and can be controlled via an app and works through bluetooth.) It is only a 2-channel, but it will run my light bar in front and light pods on my sports bar. Hopefully i get around to installing everything this weekend. But crazy technology!
Awesome! The wireless switches are great
Luke Lichtenwalner just saw your post on the forum, thanks for the shout out!!! Project turned out great!
F38 is that the ignition fuse? Like where it’ll control when the trigger will draw power?
What was the better one with better switching? Thanks
Do you mean between my auxbeam and this controller? I like the switching and rgb capability of the auxbeam over the wirelsss of the trigger.
Hey for the light bar mounts from rough country where did you buy the brackets? Did you buy just the brackets or the brackets and light kit?
Bought just the brackets from RC then got the light bar from OZ-USA
Awesome I was looking for just the brackets on their website but couldn’t find it
You have to call them, they don’t list the brackets individually.
I definitely like that trigger. I wonder if you can program a new switch to it… Depending on frequency, if you can program to it, then you might be able to program the homelink buttons to it. How cool would that be (as long as you only need 3)
I tried, no dice.
@@WaterFowler41 Darn… That would have been sweet
Didb you try syncing it to the garage opener just curious if it works
Yup, it didn’t work...
Great installation! Man, I need to stop watching these videos. Loving all these toys that I could install on my new Rebel. However my wife would kill me if I did anything right now. Time to replenish my truck slush fund. 😂 Pretty much depleted after buying the truck.
I'd be happy to ship you truck parts marked as "Congrats on winning these free parts" or "This box from Corsa contains boring tax documents"
@@WaterFowler41 😂😂😂
The positive wire to the battery comes with installed fuse already, so the red wire we can connect to another fuse distribution too?
The positive wire feeds the controller with have 4 fused circuits. I connected the trigger to my fuse distribution block because it was the easiest was to get power. It’s fused so a bit redundant but won’t harm anything by having multiple fuses so long as they are coordinated correctly.
Does installing these accessories affect the factory warranty?
Only if this specific part caused an issue but if you install it properly you should have zero issues.
Awesome and thorough video as always WF! Question, is that OZ connector that you have sitting in the L channel underneath waterproof or do you think it should be wrapped?
Pat sy thanks! The OZ connection is gasketed so it’s waterproof. Like most connection I wouldn’t want to submerge it but it can handle the snow build up and melt fine. Been using them for a while.
As always thanks for the compliments!
Ok. Might be a dumb question. But I just bought this thing today with a pair of Baja squadron lights. They're 2.2 amps each. Can I run both to one circuit so both turn on with same switch?
Yes you can
Curious how the trigger is doing. Been consider and reading reviews some pit downs make me think twice. Still working strong?
Still working great! I have a new video coming soon where I added reverse lights. The remote is super fast, 0 delay and the switches broke in nicely
Brother I love the video and doing projects with my dad like this are what makes it great. I had a question. I am looking to wire one of the Rough Country light bars with the drl option into my tacoma bumper. I am looking at this trigger 4 plus wireless system so u don’t have to run wires into the cab. What I’m wonder8ng is do the drl and main lights have their own positive and neg wires or at least 2 positive wires? I’ll be bypassing the switch and likely the relay as my wireless switch system will have that built in. I just wanted to be able to run each function to its own switch. The DRL and the main high beam. Hope that makes sense ?
On my light bar the drl and main light each had their own positive but they share a negative. I have another video showing how I ran a separate drl circuit with a new relay to power the drl in the light bar while I allowed the trigger to control the main light.
@@WaterFowler41 is there a way I can run the drl to the trigger 4 plus so that I could use one of those switches to light up the DRL? And the relays that come with the rough country harness did u use theirs when u wired in the bar or did u essentially cut the wire before them since the trigger 4 plus has its own relays. Hope that makes sense ? Basically I just wanna use one of the other switches on the trigger system to turn on my DRL independently.
Yes, first though i did not use the rough country light bar. Mine is an OZ-USA.
But yes, you can certainly use one of the triggers outputs for drl and the other for the main. Since the light bar only has one ground, I would run the ground directly to the chassis then just use the positive (red) wires to get your two circuits.
@@WaterFowler41 sweet. So would I cut the wires before getting to their 2 relays that come in the kit ?
Yup! You don’t need them with the trigger. Look at my reverse light video, that’s exactly what i did with the Zroadz harness
awesome video but I didnt understand why do you need a relaay? 11:20
The trigger controller is my relay. As you asking why you need relays to run light bars?
@@WaterFowler41 you said something at min 11:00 about the white wire and connecting the DRL (what its a DRL)? and using a relay
Ahhh yup I ran a separate relay in a later video to drive some drl lights. Here’s where I finish up the relay for that project.
th-cam.com/video/48l9F9ott7Y/w-d-xo.html
Hi man thanks for all the videos, very helpful. Would be able to tell me about the small box you connected the red wire to. I noticed that you did not connected straight to the battery. And Any info would be great as I am in the same process of installing the 6 shooter. Thxxxxxx
It’s a scosche dual fuse holder.
Where did you install trigger and did you get any of the brackets if yes which one?
The trigger is velcro’ed to the the top of my fuse box and the switch is located in my cab. It’s also velcroed so I can remove it easily when I need to replace batteries.
Awesome thank you
Great Video, how do you feel about the Trigger 4 Plus after having it for a while now & have you hooked anything else up to it yet? Thanks, I'm looking for either the trigger 4 plus or using the HomeLink buttons for a light bar.
Yup I have my reverse lights, a pillar pods, and light bar on 3 of the channels. The switches have certainly loosened up over time and they operate like normal toggles now. The trigger 4 plus is great. I got 1 year out of the OEM batteries in the switch bank.
Can you change the 10amp fuses to 20 or 30amp if you need it?
No, trigger recommends using the same amperage as the fuses provided no more.
Hey just wanted to know what micro fuse you used. I’m looking on Amazon
Here you go: Gebildet 4pcs 12V 24V Add-a-Circuit Micro2 Fuse Tap, Piggy Back Blade Fuse Holder with Wire Harness, 6 pcs Micro 2 Fuse (5A 10A 15A) and Fuse Puller www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZV4LY54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9JQFBNPECQ9TZPXV9SGS
@@WaterFowler41 you are the man I appreciate it. Also that schoshe power block. I’m new to all the wiring I use to bring it to the mechanic now I want to be an adult and do it myself. I see the power from the trigger 4 goes up top. Does that grey wire on the other side of the power block go to the car battery.
The scosche thing is a single in dual out fuse holder. I have a small length of wire from the battery to the fuse then that’s where my trigger and stereo amp get power.
How did you mount the scosche block?
Double stick tape and a zip tie
@@WaterFowler41 What size fuse did you use? Thanks!
I think it’s a 60 amp fuse
What is the brand a model number of your power distribution block?
It’s a scosche dual fuse holder
@@WaterFowler41 Great Thank you - The second question why didn't you flip the light bar so the power wire for the LED light bar came out on the right side so you didn't have to run wire across the top of the radiator and then down
What kind of distribution block is that by chance? Tia
I haven’t see my exact one lately but here is a similar one from Best Buy:
Fuse holder: shop-links.co/cfADHx3EAVy
What brand is your power distribution block
Trigger 4 plus
Also try sugru
Awesome thanks for the recommendation!
No Big Nav?
Nope just the 8” nav! It’s not the size that counts...
Marine Velcro
I-Pass Velcro lol tell me you’re from IL without telling me you’re from IL
Hahaha!
You keep saying "basically" then go into great detail about whatever you're talking about...
Sorry man, I’m by no means a professional. I just make these videos because they are fun to make and they occasionally help others. My apologies...
I’ll be using the app, the switches are junk
The app was a nice to have feature but for quick action of the lights, the app is clunky as well. I ended up replacing this light switch with an AUXBEAM RGB 8-gang unit. Yes it wired but the response and quality of the switch panel is great compared to the trigger 4 channel.