I hardly ever subscribe.really. But when you mentioned “please subscribe so we can help others build their van… you won me over. You legitimately want to help people. And for that we all should help you. Thanks for the video.
I just re-watched this now that I am getting ready to lower my tank. This is by far the most complete video, and covers the details of dropping the tank on the transit. Thank again for the detailed content.
Agreed. Great shots of the fuel tank bolts, sender unit and auxiliary port. Very tough video shots but he managed to do it. I will use the Aux port for now but later down the road I will cut a hole in the sender unit and put my own fuel feed stick (with smaller diameter). This will ensure better performance in high altitudes.
Thanks for pointing out that there’s an existing auxiliary port on the gas tank. Ford really designed the van for customization. I was thinking of a diesel unit with separate fuel tank because I didn’t want to put a hole in the tank. Now I’m sold on gas.
Super helpful, thank you!! I’m actually trying to fix my Webasto heater that I didn’t install myself so I’m grateful to see the whole process and hopefully I can figure it out. Great video!
Great video!! I have a question. I have a new 2023 Transit HR 148. The build sheet says nothing about an auxiliary fuel port. Does that mean that I need to install that port into some part of the gas tank prior to the work that you have described here/ Maybe I missed something. I'm now following.
Pro tip: set your fuel pump to a vertical position so air bubbles do not get caught on the sidewall. The gasoline has lubricants that is needed for a prolonged life of the piston (no O-rings btw). If horizontal, there will be air continuously trapped on the high side of the wall (air rises) and will cause friction and dosing issues which is less than the expected .02 ml per cycle. The horizontal position will diminish the life of the piston as there will always be air bubbles in the fuel line due to the low pressure caused by the pump during each cycle. Hope that helps. Also, a bit curious on the exhaust portion of the video. Not sure if I missed that. Was wondering which muffler you chose to use.
Hi 👋🏽 How wEll does the webasto heater heat up the van? I was wondering if I should just get an electric or other plug in heater with lowish wattage and just bring it closer to sleeping area to save $? 🤷🏽 Thanks!
@@RichBuilt oh it is the simple Lagun set up. I have my Lagun stuff already. But I need to order the black metal van wall plate. Is it available for a Ram ProMaster too?
RichBuilt -- Thank you for the video! I used it to install my gasoline heater. Now that you've had your heater a while, what is your experience? Mainly, how if that AUX port working? Some people are reporting issues with reliable fuel delivery, have you had any issues?
Thanks Peter, the only thing I would change is to better protect the fuel filter lines and connections under the van. It was hit a few times by rocks and had to be replaced. Maybe wrapping in heat wrap or tucking away better would help
@@EricMarenyi I ended up using plusnuts. I used the 4 corner holes in the mounting plate with the two inboard holes going into the cavity of the frame member below the floor. The two outboard holes go into the storage area for the jack at the passenger step.
Great instructions. A thought about the bed, a design I have not seen anywhere, (which I hope to use in my van): a bed frame composed of 4 panels, each panel represents a side of the bed left to right, hinged at three points; seat cushions fixed to one side (of the sitting part), bed mattress fixed to the other side. In seat mode, it is folded into a "b" or "6" configuration (one end at the very top of the "b" and the other end of the frame at the upper horizontal section of the "b". Linkages allows the lower sections to be pulled sideways forcing the tall vertical section to slide down and become horizontal, and the other sections are "unfolded" into horizontal and then placed on supports underneath the frame (a table and the seat across a middle aisle). This allows for seating on both sides of a middle table, and allows conversion from seat the bed without needing to make the bed or move seating cushions. (4 straps (for each section of the bed) need to be fixed into place to keep the bedding in place during conversation from bed to bench).
@@RichBuilt The trifold bed, like the rock&roll bed have the disadvantage of having a double-thickness back, (the back of the bench is two layers of the bed). This is a disadvantage in that, if the bench is placed along the side of a van, it reduces the living space of the van's width by that extra back cushion. The "b" frame use the seat as the location of the extra layer, (the seat is the double layer instead of the back) which doesn't diminish the horizontal space. Also, the segments of the "b" fram are connected (except where the upper horizontal meats the vertical) so that the segments are one peace and "unroll" once the vertical leg is pivoted into the horizontal orientation. But I understand it is a lot like interior decorating, everyone to what suits them. :-)
Do you know or anyone installed this a will d be able to retain the factory installed inverter that is in this location if it is so equipped? Thanks, appreciate the video.
Rich. I have followed your install, it all went well except for getting the distal controller to work. The manual rheostat works and the heater is working, but when I swap the digital controller, I get no led reading and nothing is working. Any advice?
Hey Larry, check to see if your connection is secure. The other thing I would check is to see if you need a special harness. I can't recall now that it's been so long.
Where is the outdoor sensor for your thermometer located? Thanks again for another helpful video. I like the thermometer a lot, but I'm confused where the two separate "in" and "out" readings are coming from. The "in" reading must be coming from the black sensor above the thermometer, right?
@@RichBuilt Thank you! Also, your fuel line sleeve Amazon link brings up a fuel line (not the plastic sleeve). Just thought I'd give you a heads up as someone who is using those links you provide. Thanks again for the content 👍🏼
Rich great video. Thanks so much. This is so helpful. I keep referring back to this video again and again as I am prepping for my install! Hey wondering if there was a specific reason you used the worm-drive clamp on the Ford Gas tank attachment vs using the fuel line clamp? I know the worm-drive clamp comes with the Ford factory part so I am sure it is "OK" but I see you purchased a box of fuel line clamps so......? Thanks John
Nice install. Is it possible I can bring over oil pump into inside ? ( the line between oil tank and oil filter will be very long ) I am worrying about oil pump can be damaged by hit from road and get dirty very easily.
On that note, I really thought your workmanship, and your attention to increasing safety margins with extra shielding were commendable. I would be a little bit concerned about using tie wraps for critical functions like holding the fuel line off the exhaust and drive shaft though. They are abrasive under vibration, and they deteriorate over time, becoming brittle before they crack away. There are higher cost versions which are better. Another option would be to use adel clamps (smaller versions of the type holding the fuel pump which you discarded). I can see that you are meticulous and you would obviously change these out in good time. I would be worried that I wouldn’t.
Great video as always Rich. Is the fuel pump drawing ok upon start up? I saw that you hooked up to the factory Aux fuel port which is much larger than the smaller fuel line used for the heater. I put an Espar in my older diesel rv and had suction issues at altitude using the factory fuel port. It all went away when I used the skinny stand pipe (fuel pick up pipe). It involves removing the cap on the tank and is more work. I'm doing the same with my AWD Transit and am going to use the factory port for an Onan 2800i generator that has a much larger fuel line. The gas Transit Espar kit from Espar parts now comes with a small fuel pick up pipe and said it has to be used in kit for warranty to work. They told me 90% of their trouble shooting on heaters not working was the loss of draw/suction on the too large factory gas tank pick up tube.
actually, sometimes it doesn't start on the first try. Didn't think much of it but it always starts up after the second try if it doesn't on the first. Good points
@chrisparent3018 your point is right on the money! I purchased a Velit Gasoline heater, and it stated in their guide that there are performance issues when connecting to the auxiliary port provided by Ford. I didn't realize the impetus was with the diameter of the aux pick up line/standpipe being larger; thereby causing fuel retrieval issues. Based on YOUR comment, I NOW just decided to go from the AUX port install to a 10-gallon gasoline Gerry can that has a "quick disconnect" setup (maintaining the 2-2.5mm diameter needed for proper siphoning performance). That way it will serve two purposes: 1. I can open the back door, quickly disconnect the fuel line, grab the can, shut the door and fill up then (in reverse) reconnect it. (versus filling up with door open on an inevitable cold day) 2. It can serve as an extended fuel resource, if I run out of gas for my van's tank. (gas nozzle attachment included)
I have the same van and will be installing the webasto on the drivers side, about 3ft back (under my couch). Looks like that is right beside the gas tank so no running a long fuel line etc. Do you foresee any problems with that location? I am also struggling with the $95/hr shop charge to install it, so it may become a weekend project with my dad and brother. Thank you very much for this video
@@RichBuilt Great Video. I am following a lot of your designs and work. Thanks so much! I purchased the Govee thermometer and had the same question on the sensor location, but I like your idea to monitor the Fridge! Brilliant. So another question. How did you mount the Govee thermometer to your instrument panel? 3M Adhesive tape? or did you rig up some screw/bolt on method?
I also wanted to know how you routed your Webasto control wires in the door pillar? Did you remove the plastic trim and the Air Bag Foam block to do it? If yes any tips to avoid breaking them on removal would be appreciated. Thanks again.
@@JohnWilson-wc3nx You don't need to remove the panel completely. Just pry it up enough to squeeze the wire behind. This way you don't damage any of the clips.
since the floor isn't flat in the front seat passenger floor, did you seal the edge of the plate? or what did you do to ensure a seal? with metal floor bracket and uneven floor? thanks!
Hey Erin, I used All purpose silicone from home depot to close the voids. You could use high temp sealant as well but I didn't have any. No issues so far on my setup.
@@RichBuilt if you sealed from the top, how are you planning on removing the heater if you need to service it or change out the burner? i.e. the plate is sealed to the floor via silicone/sealant and unable to access to the 4 bolts or remove the exhaust and intake pipes to remove the heater from the plate? thanks!
@@emoon25 Hey Erin - the silicon can be scrapped off with a blade once you remove the 4 screws if you need to remove the entire unit. Based on what I saw, you can access all the ocmponents from the top side and you don't need to remove the end plate.
Hey! Thank you for the EXCELLENT video tutorial!! I’m working on my Webasto install in my Transit and it’s HUGELY helpful!!! :) Was wondering: Did you have to trim one of the jack bolts under the passenger seat, to make room for the heater?
Thanks! Was your plate home made, or the one the came w the kit? Trying to figure out how to get it to fit under there. Happy to pay for consulting if that’s easier too. Feel free to send your site, etc:)
I just installed mine yesterday and failed to watch your new video beforehand, but the faroutride site is definitely helpful for troubleshooting. Did your kit come with the fuel filter? I didn't install one and am now thinking I should probably add one. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Ken, Mine did come with the filter. You can buy them for cheap on amazon, but the metal filter looks to only filter large particles. $15 is worth the peace of mind.
Hey Micah, I only considered the webasto and the espar heaters. The espar was sold out and I thought I better jump on it before the webasto was out of stock. Now the webasto is out of stock and the espar is available. I would consider the espar since it has automatic altitude adjustment for the next build but I hear the webasto is more reliable.
Ford has a build option that Auxillary Fuel Port Extension Line for $385. You think it's worth it rather than getting under the car and removing the fuel tank?
Cameron, I’m not sure what that is. But I don’t think it’s worth if you still need to get under the van. $400 could get you a lot of different van components.
@@_drift__ I have the extended range 31 gallon tank in the used transit van that I just bought. Does that mean I have the aux fuel port extension line that you're referring to? How can I tell?
I'm surprised that the auxiliary fuel port for gas is yellow and blue for diesel as you stated. A Diesel pump at a gas station is indicated by yellow and the 5gal fuel containers for diesel are also yellow. And because they are designed for diesel they are made of a thinner gauge plastic because they can be from a safety perspective.
Hey Diani, The espar was sold out and I thought I better jump on it before the webasto was out of stock. Now the webasto is out of stock and the espar is available. I would consider the espar since it has automatic altitude adjustment for the next build but I hear the webasto is more reliable.
@@RichBuilt Totally. Coincidently I just put mine in, and my routing is a bit different but I found anything close to that shield was getting warm to the touch after some driving around. Worth keeping an eye on but its all looking great. Thanks for sharing this in such detail; I wound up with a nice and toasty 5k diesel heater with separate tank, but the fit is TIGHT under that passenger seat!
Many people put the heater under the passenger seat but I wonder about the heat getting to the bed area. Anyone putting the heater in the middle of the van, or putting ducts to get heat from near the passenger seat to the center or back of the van? Or perhaps the distance from van front to back is so short that it really doesn't matter where the hot air outlet is?
Yeah you got it right, the heat fills the entire space quickly. If you had the duct directly under your bed or near your body, it would get uncomfortably hot as it warms up the cabin.
Another great video full of detail and hacks to make the system better (and my life easier!). Good Work! Did you run new wires or the wires that came with the heater that we see coiled up in the seat pedestal through the van frame to your control panel? I'm mid way through my build and I'm not sure if I need to run extra wire for the heater. Why did you connect the heater to your battery vs your control panel. Thanks.
thanks Robert, yes I ran the wires that came with the kit. I didn't wan to recrimp the ends so I just rolled it up as neat as I could. I hooked it up to my control panel fuse box, not the car battery.
I had the Wabasco. Its only good to 50°F. You need four of then to get down to zero F. It needs its own fuel source. Do not connect it to the engines fuel tank. There are better methods of heating a van.
great video! fyi, ebay rubber clamp link is broken. shows a "We looked everywhere. Looks like this page is missing. If you still need help, visit our help pages."
I hardly ever subscribe.really. But when you mentioned “please subscribe so we can help others build their van… you won me over. You legitimately want to help people. And for that we all should help you. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the kind words! Yes, I'm also passing on wisdom other's have taught me.
70%?! Follow this man. He’s cool
I just re-watched this now that I am getting ready to lower my tank. This is by far the most complete video, and covers the details of dropping the tank on the transit. Thank again for the detailed content.
Agreed. Great shots of the fuel tank bolts, sender unit and auxiliary port. Very tough video shots but he managed to do it. I will use the Aux port for now but later down the road I will cut a hole in the sender unit and put my own fuel feed stick (with smaller diameter). This will ensure better performance in high altitudes.
THank you! This is the best video on this type of install for a Transit. To the point. Concise, interesting and useful!
Thank you!
At 19:00 I would definitely use steel cable ties for that support. That no-grommet metal passage will definitely wear through the plastic tie in time.
Thanks for pointing out that there’s an existing auxiliary port on the gas tank. Ford really designed the van for customization. I was thinking of a diesel unit with separate fuel tank because I didn’t want to put a hole in the tank. Now I’m sold on gas.
Awesome!
Super helpful, thank you!! I’m actually trying to fix my Webasto heater that I didn’t install myself so I’m grateful to see the whole process and hopefully I can figure it out. Great video!
Thank you!
The link for the heater takes you to a diesel one. Nice video, I enjoy how you illustrate and calmly explain step by step.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for pointing that out
Nice work! Can’t wait to see the Murphy Bed.
Wonderul, specific, useful detail. Many thanks!
Awesome! Very informative and clear. Thank you.
Great video!!
I have a question. I have a new 2023 Transit HR 148. The build sheet says nothing about an auxiliary fuel port. Does that mean that I need to install that port into some part of the gas tank prior to the work that you have described here/ Maybe I missed something. I'm now following.
How did it go? I believe an auxiliary fuel port is a purchase option for new transits and not all transits have one.
Pro tip: set your fuel pump to a vertical position so air bubbles do not get caught on the sidewall. The gasoline has lubricants that is needed for a prolonged life of the piston (no O-rings btw). If horizontal, there will be air continuously trapped on the high side of the wall (air rises) and will cause friction and dosing issues which is less than the expected .02 ml per cycle. The horizontal position will diminish the life of the piston as there will always be air bubbles in the fuel line due to the low pressure caused by the pump during each cycle. Hope that helps.
Also, a bit curious on the exhaust portion of the video. Not sure if I missed that. Was wondering which muffler you chose to use.
Hi 👋🏽
How wEll does the webasto heater heat up the van? I was wondering if I should just get an electric or other plug in heater with lowish wattage and just bring it closer to sleeping area to save $? 🤷🏽
Thanks!
I like the laptop work station. I may copy your idea.
Look forward to the Murphy Bed because I plan to build one for my van.
Check out instagram.com/p/CMp61LejxTk/
@@RichBuilt oh it is the simple Lagun set up.
I have my Lagun stuff already. But I need to order the black metal van wall plate.
Is it available for a Ram ProMaster too?
7:57 I didnt catch it. What was the issue you running into at this point in the video?
Good stuff brotha!
[2020 148WB/MR AWD/Boosted Transit 'Two-fiddy']
I was wondering how you were going to install the bed looking forward to that video
Always top-notch video and work! Hope you see your van someday.
Thank you likewise!
Nice DIY vid.
Thanks
RichBuilt -- Thank you for the video! I used it to install my gasoline heater. Now that you've had your heater a while, what is your experience? Mainly, how if that AUX port working? Some people are reporting issues with reliable fuel delivery, have you had any issues?
Thanks Peter, the only thing I would change is to better protect the fuel filter lines and connections under the van. It was hit a few times by rocks and had to be replaced. Maybe wrapping in heat wrap or tucking away better would help
Nice job. How did you attach the mounting plate to the van floor? Sheet metal screw or plusnuts?
Came looking for the same answer!
@@EricMarenyi I ended up using plusnuts. I used the 4 corner holes in the mounting plate with the two inboard holes going into the cavity of the frame member below the floor. The two outboard holes go into the storage area for the jack at the passenger step.
Thank for your great info on diy
Thanks for watching!
What do you do with the factory inverter that is under the seat ?
Nicely done!
Thank you!
Great instructions. A thought about the bed, a design I have not seen anywhere, (which I hope to use in my van): a bed frame composed of 4 panels, each panel represents a side of the bed left to right, hinged at three points; seat cushions fixed to one side (of the sitting part), bed mattress fixed to the other side. In seat mode, it is folded into a "b" or "6" configuration (one end at the very top of the "b" and the other end of the frame at the upper horizontal section of the "b". Linkages allows the lower sections to be pulled sideways forcing the tall vertical section to slide down and become horizontal, and the other sections are "unfolded" into horizontal and then placed on supports underneath the frame (a table and the seat across a middle aisle). This allows for seating on both sides of a middle table, and allows conversion from seat the bed without needing to make the bed or move seating cushions. (4 straps (for each section of the bed) need to be fixed into place to keep the bedding in place during conversation from bed to bench).
Thanks T, If I picture this correctly I'm envisioning something like this. Sounds cool
th-cam.com/video/hAfGyzi7by4/w-d-xo.html
@@RichBuilt The trifold bed, like the rock&roll bed have the disadvantage of having a double-thickness back, (the back of the bench is two layers of the bed). This is a disadvantage in that, if the bench is placed along the side of a van, it reduces the living space of the van's width by that extra back cushion. The "b" frame use the seat as the location of the extra layer, (the seat is the double layer instead of the back) which doesn't diminish the horizontal space. Also, the segments of the "b" fram are connected (except where the upper horizontal meats the vertical) so that the segments are one peace and "unroll" once the vertical leg is pivoted into the horizontal orientation. But I understand it is a lot like interior decorating, everyone to what suits them. :-)
Do you know or anyone installed this a will d be able to retain the factory installed inverter that is in this location if it is so equipped? Thanks, appreciate the video.
would the install take half the time if you used both hands?
Rich. I have followed your install, it all went well except for getting the distal controller to work. The manual rheostat works and the heater is working, but when I swap the digital controller, I get no led reading and nothing is working. Any advice?
Hey Larry, check to see if your connection is secure. The other thing I would check is to see if you need a special harness. I can't recall now that it's been so long.
Where is the outdoor sensor for your thermometer located? Thanks again for another helpful video. I like the thermometer a lot, but I'm confused where the two separate "in" and "out" readings are coming from. The "in" reading must be coming from the black sensor above the thermometer, right?
Hey Alex, the “in” reading measures interior temps of the cabin built into the display and the “out” is a separate sensor currently inside my fridge.
@@RichBuilt Thank you! Also, your fuel line sleeve Amazon link brings up a fuel line (not the plastic sleeve). Just thought I'd give you a heads up as someone who is using those links you provide. Thanks again for the content 👍🏼
@@alexdecapri Thanks for the heads up Alex!
@@RichBuilt One more question! Did you use self-tapping screws to secure the plate into the van floor in addition to silicone?
Rich great video. Thanks so much. This is so helpful. I keep referring back to this video again and again as I am prepping for my install! Hey wondering if there was a specific reason you used the worm-drive clamp on the Ford Gas tank attachment vs using the fuel line clamp? I know the worm-drive clamp comes with the Ford factory part so I am sure it is "OK" but I see you purchased a box of fuel line clamps so......?
Thanks
John
Thank you John. I used it simply because it came in the kit. You can use either one and you will be okay.
Nice job !!
Nice install. Is it possible I can bring over oil pump into inside ? ( the line between oil tank and oil filter will be very long )
I am worrying about oil pump can be damaged by hit from road and get dirty very easily.
I think you mean, fuel pump? Yeah I think there could be a way to mount it so its not so exposed. No issues so far for me.
On that note, I really thought your workmanship, and your attention to increasing safety margins with extra shielding were commendable. I would be a little bit concerned about using tie wraps for critical functions like holding the fuel line off the exhaust and drive shaft though. They are abrasive under vibration, and they deteriorate over time, becoming brittle before they crack away. There are higher cost versions which are better. Another option would be to use adel clamps (smaller versions of the type holding the fuel pump which you discarded). I can see that you are meticulous and you would obviously change these out in good time. I would be worried that I wouldn’t.
Great video as always Rich. Is the fuel pump drawing ok upon start up? I saw that you hooked up to the factory Aux fuel port which is much larger than the smaller fuel line used for the heater. I put an Espar in my older diesel rv and had suction issues at altitude using the factory fuel port. It all went away when I used the skinny stand pipe (fuel pick up pipe). It involves removing the cap on the tank and is more work. I'm doing the same with my AWD Transit and am going to use the factory port for an Onan 2800i generator that has a much larger fuel line. The gas Transit Espar kit from Espar parts now comes with a small fuel pick up pipe and said it has to be used in kit for warranty to work. They told me 90% of their trouble shooting on heaters not working was the loss of draw/suction on the too large factory gas tank pick up tube.
actually, sometimes it doesn't start on the first try. Didn't think much of it but it always starts up after the second try if it doesn't on the first. Good points
@chrisparent3018 your point is right on the money! I purchased a Velit Gasoline heater, and it stated in their guide that there are performance issues when connecting to the auxiliary port provided by Ford. I didn't realize the impetus was with the diameter of the aux pick up line/standpipe being larger; thereby causing fuel retrieval issues.
Based on YOUR comment, I NOW just decided to go from the AUX port install to a 10-gallon gasoline Gerry can that has a "quick disconnect" setup (maintaining the 2-2.5mm diameter needed for proper siphoning performance).
That way it will serve two purposes:
1. I can open the back door, quickly disconnect the fuel line, grab the can, shut the door and fill up then (in reverse) reconnect it. (versus filling up with door open on an inevitable cold day)
2. It can serve as an extended fuel resource, if I run out of gas for my van's tank. (gas nozzle attachment included)
I have the same van and will be installing the webasto on the drivers side, about 3ft back (under my couch). Looks like that is right beside the gas tank so no running a long fuel line etc. Do you foresee any problems with that location? I am also struggling with the $95/hr shop charge to install it, so it may become a weekend project with my dad and brother. Thank you very much for this video
Glad you found it helpful. No, that area should make installation much easier and more straightforward after you tap into the gas tank.
where did you get the 60mm duct pipe?
It came with my kit.
That is awesome. Good on you.
Thank you! Cheers!
what kind of extension cable did you use for the controller to be able to go that far?
Link to the extension is in the description
With the exhaust so close to the passenger and sliding door, do you notice any exhaust entering the van when the doors are open and heater running?
I haven't noticed it before, but I don't think I've ever opened the door while the heater is on.
@@RichBuilt Cool, thanks for the reply and the very helpful video! I'm working on my own install this week.
Rich how has the Webasto been working this winter? At altitude?
Hey Micah, it’s still going strong. I still haven’t adjusted it to high altitude setting but I had no issues the last couple times I camped in Tahoe
I might’ve missed it, but where did you mount that outside thermometer sensor?
I had under the rear bumper. I moved it to my fridge to monitor the temps there instead.
@@RichBuilt Great Video. I am following a lot of your designs and work. Thanks so much! I purchased the Govee thermometer and had the same question on the sensor location, but I like your idea to monitor the Fridge! Brilliant. So another question. How did you mount the Govee thermometer to your instrument panel? 3M Adhesive tape? or did you rig up some screw/bolt on method?
I also wanted to know how you routed your Webasto control wires in the door pillar? Did you remove the plastic trim and the Air Bag Foam block to do it? If yes any tips to avoid breaking them on removal would be appreciated. Thanks again.
@@JohnWilson-wc3nx Thanks John, I used 3M Tape. Its held up since I installed it, but on the final iteration I will likely screw it in.
@@JohnWilson-wc3nx You don't need to remove the panel completely. Just pry it up enough to squeeze the wire behind. This way you don't damage any of the clips.
I found this video helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
since the floor isn't flat in the front seat passenger floor, did you seal the edge of the plate? or what did you do to ensure a seal? with metal floor bracket and uneven floor? thanks!
Hey Erin, I used All purpose silicone from home depot to close the voids. You could use high temp sealant as well but I didn't have any. No issues so far on my setup.
@@RichBuilt if you sealed from the top, how are you planning on removing the heater if you need to service it or change out the burner? i.e. the plate is sealed to the floor via silicone/sealant and unable to access to the 4 bolts or remove the exhaust and intake pipes to remove the heater from the plate?
thanks!
@@emoon25 Hey Erin - the silicon can be scrapped off with a blade once you remove the 4 screws if you need to remove the entire unit. Based on what I saw, you can access all the ocmponents from the top side and you don't need to remove the end plate.
Why does the fuel line need to go over the drive shaft? Could it just come out from the main tank on the passenger side?
The fuel tank is on the driver's side and the heater is on the passenger side on my setup.
@@RichBuilt Thanks!
What wood did you use for the ceiling paneling, looks great!
Thanks! It’s vertical grain fir
Hey! Thank you for the EXCELLENT video tutorial!! I’m working on my Webasto install in my Transit and it’s HUGELY helpful!!! :) Was wondering: Did you have to trim one of the jack bolts under the passenger seat, to make room for the heater?
Thank you, I didn't have to trim the jack bolts.
Thanks! Was your plate home made, or the one the came w the kit? Trying to figure out how to get it to fit under there. Happy to pay for consulting if that’s easier too. Feel free to send your site, etc:)
I just installed mine yesterday and failed to watch your new video beforehand, but the faroutride site is definitely helpful for troubleshooting. Did your kit come with the fuel filter? I didn't install one and am now thinking I should probably add one. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Ken, Mine did come with the filter. You can buy them for cheap on amazon, but the metal filter looks to only filter large particles. $15 is worth the peace of mind.
What size wire did you use from your house battery to the webasto electrical wire?
Hey Elena, 14awg stranded copper wire
Rich, what was the deciding factor between this and propex? Just didn't want propane in the van?
Hey Micah, I only considered the webasto and the espar heaters. The espar was sold out and I thought I better jump on it before the webasto was out of stock. Now the webasto is out of stock and the espar is available. I would consider the espar since it has automatic altitude adjustment for the next build but I hear the webasto is more reliable.
What fuse converter panel are you using to go into your 12v battery generator?
Hey Joriah it’s the Blue Sea fuse block
when you choose this control , how to do Altitude Adjustment?
You need to plug in the dial to make the adjustment unfortunately
Ford has a build option that Auxillary Fuel Port Extension Line for $385. You think it's worth it rather than getting under the car and removing the fuel tank?
Cameron, I’m not sure what that is. But I don’t think it’s worth if you still need to get under the van. $400 could get you a lot of different van components.
@@RichBuilt I'm not sure if this justifies the price but it also includes an extended range tank which is 31 gallons.
@@gunzforarmz if $400 included in the extended range option, than I would say that's worth it. Especially if you plan to go on long trips
I bought that option and it provides an extension line which sticks out the side of the tank, so you don't have to drop the tank.
@@_drift__ I have the extended range 31 gallon tank in the used transit van that I just bought. Does that mean I have the aux fuel port extension line that you're referring to? How can I tell?
Great content as always. Is it just the espar heater or do you need to hang that fuel pump at a slight angle? Is that only for the diesel pumps?
I'm not sure, I just followed what was in the manual. I think you're correct about the diesel.
Yo Rich, your espar link above links to a Diesel fired air heater
Thanks for the headsup Micah!
Has anyone been able to find these kits anywhere? I cant find the gas version of the Webasto anywhere.
Do you have the DiscountVanTruck low seat base for that passenger side?
both seat bases are factory ford bases.
I'm surprised that the auxiliary fuel port for gas is yellow and blue for diesel as you stated. A Diesel pump at a gas station is indicated by yellow and the 5gal fuel containers for diesel are also yellow. And because they are designed for diesel they are made of a thinner gauge plastic because they can be from a safety perspective.
That's sweet! I want to know if your seats are factory upholstery or are they aftermarket covers?
Thanks! I made a video about them here. th-cam.com/video/j1bsKfJR1Q8/w-d-xo.html
Nice video. Where and how much did you pay for that huge ring of plastic loom?
Hi, its in the description of the video with a link.
Can't wait for the 80/20 Murphy bed. How did you decide on the Webasto over the Espar?
Hey Diani, The espar was sold out and I thought I better jump on it before the webasto was out of stock. Now the webasto is out of stock and the espar is available. I would consider the espar since it has automatic altitude adjustment for the next build but I hear the webasto is more reliable.
I ordered my van with the option to tap onto the gas tank so I don't have to lower the gas tank.
These are out of stock, anyone knows where else to get one?
Careful with the air intake filter so close to the heat shield, might start to melt.
yeah good point, I'll have to monitor it. The exhaust itself is almost 4" away from the heat shield and the intake is 2" away.
@@RichBuilt Totally. Coincidently I just put mine in, and my routing is a bit different but I found anything close to that shield was getting warm to the touch after some driving around. Worth keeping an eye on but its all looking great. Thanks for sharing this in such detail; I wound up with a nice and toasty 5k diesel heater with separate tank, but the fit is TIGHT under that passenger seat!
Many people put the heater under the passenger seat but I wonder about the heat getting to the bed area. Anyone putting the heater in the middle of the van, or putting ducts to get heat from near the passenger seat to the center or back of the van? Or perhaps the distance from van front to back is so short that it really doesn't matter where the hot air outlet is?
Yeah you got it right, the heat fills the entire space quickly. If you had the duct directly under your bed or near your body, it would get uncomfortably hot as it warms up the cabin.
FEED THE PEOPLE!
haha yeee
A will d is equal to and, my screw up .
Another great video full of detail and hacks to make the system better (and my life easier!). Good Work! Did you run new wires or the wires that came with the heater that we see coiled up in the seat pedestal through the van frame to your control panel? I'm mid way through my build and I'm not sure if I need to run extra wire for the heater. Why did you connect the heater to your battery vs your control panel. Thanks.
thanks Robert, yes I ran the wires that came with the kit. I didn't wan to recrimp the ends so I just rolled it up as neat as I could. I hooked it up to my control panel fuse box, not the car battery.
I had the Wabasco. Its only good to 50°F. You need four of then to get down to zero F. It needs its own fuel source. Do not connect it to the engines fuel tank. There are better methods of heating a van.
great video! fyi, ebay rubber clamp link is broken. shows a "We looked everywhere.
Looks like this page is missing. If you still need help, visit our help pages."
🙌
take that $900 - $1500 and get your girl something nice!