Clean and Cure Your RESIN 3D PRINTS the RIGHT WAY!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ธ.ค. 2022
- In todays video I show you how I clean and cure my resin 3D prints to prevent cracking and leaking resin from happening. Make sure to check out my other social media sites and my exclusive patreon!
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#3dprinting #resinart #3dprinted - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
In addition to a uv light inserted into the hollow model, I’ve had great success curing parts in my cure station submerged in water as the water reflects the light through the drain holes.
That's interesting!
I was wondering if optic fibers with uv source light won't be convenient to get inside smaller holes (if not too expensive)?
The first print I ever made (Mandalorian about 12" tall) I didn't know about drain holes...until several months later during hot weather when the base platform broke open and liquid resin poured everywhere on my desk! Lesson learned. I mean it POPPED that base wide open. Huge cracks. 😦
Bro, I’m a 5 axis aero space CNC machinist. Your videos really help me. Thank you!
That's cool to hear
Thanks for the tips. Being new to the hobby your and other's videos have been invaluable. My prints are getting better and better.
That's awesome 👌
Looking to get into printing and this helped so much! Just wanted to know how to properly clean and you have so many useful tips on so many ends! Great video
You're so welcome!
Love your curing box .
Love your videos dude, keep it coming!
Will do my friend.
Very helpful tips here. Hadn't considered the infill effecting internal supports, so definitely appreciate the insight.
I was just going to say that :)
Very useful tips indeed!
I just wonder if 5% infill is enough?
It's all I ever use
@@TheCreativeCollector , Thanks!
I'll give it a try :)
Great tips as always...thank you.
You are so welcome!
Thank you so much that was such a great video! Had no idea you could do that.
Very helpful video, thanks
You're welcome!
Just started into resin printing and the hurdle was the curing but the box idea helps a lot, super ghetto but effective. Awsome video thanks!
Very ghetto but it brats paying $500 for a curing station. lol
Great help. I’m new to this and still learning. Great video
Fantastic info. I'm so excited to progress into resin printing.
Thank you for this ME cast - we love you!
Another thing I do that has really reduced resin in my IPA is airbrushing the outside of model before wash. I was shocked how much came off onto paper towels. I use the same battery electric airbrush you tested on the channel to do it. Also just to be on the safe side for resin inside the model I bought a little uv flashlight and I shine it in the holes. Better safe than sorry. Thanks for the vid.
Good idea! I might have to try that!
Curious how do you manage the spray of resin? I airbrush off the IPA after rinsing, makes a huge difference
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
very clear to understand, thank you and have a nice day🥰
Phrozen just released a uv laser for internal curing and a light putty. I can’t wait to get it.
Great video, thanks.
I have been thinking of buying a curing station but they are very expensive like you say, so I'm definitely going to make my own with an old tub and foil like you have.
Wow you're a genius 👏 🙌
Great video! I'm considering on exclusively using clear resin so any trapped resin can cure inside the model.
Thanks a Lot may friend. Hugs from Brazil.
And thank you!
Awesome Video Man, I'm new to the Hobby and I was not hollowing out my prints--Them suckers were HEAVY!!!! LOL Keep the videos coming!
Great video :)
Fantasti info i didnt know that if u infill it wont support interior. Man wish i had found this earlier. Thanks and i definatly subbed
Thanks!
Thanks again!
Great video and fantastic info.... I'm very new to 3d printing. Would you recommend this prosses for us the print 54mm, 75mm, and 100mm figures? Thanks
Yes, absolutely. The process is pretty much the same
One thing I have noticed that no one seems to talk about is the actual cure time and how much it can change depending on the resin type. For example, I was using the Elegoo 8k resin and for a 6 inch figure, it would take almost 20 minutes to fully cure. Now I use Sunloo Standard Grey, and it takes about 10 minutes to fully cure. (using the Elegoo Mercury Plus station)
Yes it varies depending on the print and the resin. Might make for a good future video. 🤔
@@TheCreativeCollector I believe it would! I did a comparison test print on the same Goku model on two Saturn 2's and was amazed by the difference in quality and cure times.
Also an FYI in case you ever do a follow up video on supports, Chitubox Pro (not sure about the free version) removed "Support Density". It is now called "Middle Distance" and instead of lowering the number for less of a support jungle, you increase the distance amount.
Yes!!! I keep seeing everyone saying to cure for 90 seconds to 6 minutes MAXIMUM. That amount of time has no effect on my 2-6 inch prints. Finally I tried for 15-17 minutes and they come out PERFECT. No discoloration or brittleness. Seems perfect to me. But it’s taken me a lot of digging to find anyone saying anything about 10-20 minutes curing, nearly everything I see says over 6 minutes will overdo it and ruin your print.
your tips have been very helpful. I had some prints crack on me, particularly when I used water washable resin. Now I'm wondering if the issue was due to the walls being too thick and not using the infill technique that you have demonstrated in your videos (vs it being the actual product). Thanks again for sharing this great info. Will let my subscribers know of your channel when I get a chance.
Thanks. I've found that thick walls can lead to cracks unless you cure the inside separately. With thin walls you don't have to
where you place the drain hole is very important, it can completely cause a print to get all rugged uneven look starting at where the hole line would be.
True
Great video :) were do you get your files from for your prints ???
Mostly Wicked3d
A trick that i use is put the supports beffore hollow it and ad the holes in this way ihave the prints completly hollow without support or infil inside
I use the grid infill to stabilize it and keep it from warping during printing. That keeps inner supports out.
I so love your videos. I have my eye on the Saturn 2 8k printer with their cleaning station. I think that would be a great start to resin printing unless there is an issue with that printer that you want to share with me. I was also wondering if you buy just one brand of resin in bulk or is there a need to have different types? What brand in bulk would be worth buying. Thanks for any input, someday you will have my name on your screen...
Thanks! I've heard good things about that Saturn and as far as resin goes, I use different types. I like exploring around and see what works. The ones I use often are the Elegoo standard and Sunlu grey. Those have been great for me and won't break the bank.
@@TheCreativeCollector Sorry to bug you again. Have you any thoughts about the water washable resin? If I understand correctly, they don't need to be put in a IPA cleaner. Must be a downside that that stuff.
My god you just reminded me to start my paint log 😂. I have 15 prints to paint haha
I’m looking into getting a 3D printer and the ones you print are along the same designs I really like. What printer do you recommend? And what software do I need to download the Stl files and stuff? I wish there was a way I could pay a pro 3D printer to help guide me through how to as I’m doing it. I’ve been thinking about getting the ELEGOO Saturn 3 Ultra 12k one. Is there a discord or anything I can join and ask questions?
Yes there is a link in the description to my patreon. You can join the discord through any tier of it.
Thanks for this video Henry, I've been FDM printing for a while but am getting a Saturn S for Christmas and this is exactly the information that I needed.
One question: Right at around 5:59 - 6:05 you are going up and down along the hollowed model and it looks like that tab on the back for connecting the cloak pops in on the inside of the model at a place where the infill isn't hitting it. Is that supported okay or will that need more support? Like I said, I am new to resin so maybe I'm missing something but I would think that part would fail until it met up with the larger piece, is that not right?
So that infill isn't meant as a support really. It's mainly used to maintain the structure of the print. I've never had any issues with prints having pockets. It's rare. And a lot of that is based on how the artist designed it. Fixing that is a whole other thing.
Ho, great video and thank you to give a lot of advice. For how much time do you cure your print ?
Thanks again 😊
Depending on the piece, usually around 5 minutes
Do you solely use chitubox auto supports and they work out or do you manually add a few as well?
I do both. If I feel like auto doesn't add enough then I'll add a few more.
@@TheCreativeCollector do you just use default support settings or have you made changes?
Utilizar resina traslúcida, the best
I’m still confused about the alcohol do I just dip the pices in a bowl of it or do I need to get a spray bottle and mist it do they need to sit in the alcohol for a minute or is it just a quick dip and than uv light
Needs to be submerged in alcohol for a bit and agitated. Then pull out and let dry for a while before you start to cure it. Make sure all of the excess resin is removed from the print
Does the infill process work the same in lychee, and do u only ever use medium auto supports, or do you manually add heavy supports in key places as well after the auto supports?thanks
I'm not sure about Lychee, but yes I use medium supports and usually I don't have to add heavy but on occasion I'll add a few.
@@TheCreativeCollector thanks Henry
I use warer washable, resin can you use water instead of IPA in the washing care system
Sure you can.
What resin printer would you recommend and size. Gunna be mainly printing 1/6 scale statues
Elegoo Saturn or Linant Base are good ones for that size. Anycubic photon mono x are also good and cheap right now
Hey im printing 20cm tall body parts (leg torso and hands together) and its only possible to put one punch hole in the neck key to head. Because the leg only touch the ground like 8mm, and i need to put a bolt there. Should i re purpose the bolt hole as the punch hole too?
Might be a good idea unless you're printing them solid.
Thus is EXACTLY what I needed. A real step by step. Thank you so much. 🥹
Great video. I do have a remaining question: how do you dispose of the cloudy alcohol and any water that you might have flushed the model with before putting it into the cleaning station? I don't think I want to be pouring resin down my drain to clog up my pipes or pollute the public waterways.
I sit it out in the sun to solidify then take the container to a recycling center nearby that disposes of chemicals.
@@TheCreativeCollector , thank you for the quick response!
can you cure inside the printer itself? take off the fep and use the clean tank option on Saturn, for instance.
I guess technically you could but it would burn out your screen quicker
@@TheCreativeCollector I did It last night and It worked a treat. It was a situation where I wanted something cured quickly, just a one off. I won't be making a habit of it. Good to know when in that situation though.
Which punisher are you printing now?
Another great video Henry, keep it coming. Could you send me a link for the discord.
Will do.
I sent you the link. Check your patreon messages.
How do i know that the infill is enough to support the overhang inside the hollow?
You would need to look at the hollowing process when slicing. I usually don't have any problems since chitubox detects it.
Just ordered a Photon Mono 2.
Is it neccesary to wash the prints?
Should I buy a seperate washer?
Or is there a way to do it by hand?
Im coming from the FDM printer world.
Absolutely necessary to wash the prints in alcohol unless you're using water washable resin, then you use water. Your best bet is to get a separate tub or container to wash in.
hello i saw that u also have a anycubic mono x can you probably say me your settings because my prints failing very often
Email me and can send them to you.
Settings change printer to printer. Anothers config may be a good baseline but u may still need to tweak for ur printer.
Sir can you give me a link to buy uvled! Thanks 🙏
I believe there's one in the description but if not you can get them on Amazon for around $30-40
I apologize if I happened to miss it if you said it in the video, but what percentage of isopropyl alcohol do you use?
I use denatured alcohol rather than IPA. It's cheaper and works just as good.
@@TheCreativeCollector thanks for the info!
How do you keep your resin and printers warm enough to print in the winter?
I keep everything in a climate controlled room.
Just wondering why you don't use the cure function on the Anycubic?
Have you tried acetone? Much better than IPA or alcohol imo.
Large prints with broad detail are fine for IPA, but when you're printing 32mm minis with lots of tiny details the acetone definitely makes the difference. You also get a lot more prints out of it before you have to toss it. IPA/alcohol gets muddy after just a few prints. Acetone is good for around 30 prints.
I dont use IPA. Instead I use denatured alcohol. It's a clean burning fuel that doesn't leave any residue. A gallon costs $20 and it cleans about 50 large prints for me. Acetone is good but some primers and paints don't like it after it's dried on resin. It can leave a tacky feel. I never have any issues with details plus it's rare I print minis.
@@TheCreativeCollector Yeah, it was more for your viewers. A lot of people don't know about the acetone. The trick is to swish it in boiling water for about 20 seconds after the 30 sec acetone clean. Prints come out perfect.
I work as a miniature and 1:12 scale collectible sculptor so I test print all sizes. I tried everything including the alcohol and found acetone best for my needs. I think it's important that beginners experiment with all the options. It's very daunting for people just starting out in resin printing, especially if they have no background in 3D software.
My prints after I wash them on 99% IPA and cure them they feel a bit sticky to the touch. After I clean them on IPA I use an air gun to air spray and dry them well before curing. Could this be caused by the IPA be dirty? I have an 8 litre tank that I've cleaned about 20 prints there.
It could be but I've heard IPA can leave a sticky residue especially if you're using ABS resin. I use denatured alcohol and never have any issues.
1-drain holes are not just for drainage, it is important to think about where a vacuum/pocket will form between the resin pool and your partially printed object... the holes are not for drainage in this case, they are a way for air to escape, so you can't place holes all willynilly.... if you don't have a way for air to escape in the right places, you'll be deforming the print on every layer.
2- regarding infill to avoid inner support, i thought that was what the 'platform' vs 'all' button is for. 'all' will create internal and external supports. 'platform' is just for what the platform can access.
You forgot about proper orientation has a huge part in suction too. So yeah....you can place the holes all willy-nilly in this case. Because if you've angled a piece the right way rather than print flat, with drain holes on those angled areas, it doesn't matter where you put them. The lift will compromise any possible deformity. And the all vs platform has no relevance with each other when you're putting or removing inner supports. The grid function serves as a support function and knows not to put inner supports on top of already placed supports. Chitubox has confirmed that.
i like to wash my prints in ipa. i try to avoid pro -post curing my prints as much as possible until they are tapped and ready for functionality. once my prints are capable and functional. then i will either paint and UV finish or just let the sun cure them.
when you add your drain holes it didn't create the plug. Is that in the settings?
When I add drain holes I just leave it open.
Hi, actually I am curious about how much alcohol you consume if you print everyday? The alcohol is not cheap. How often do you change it?
I drink a lot of vodka and yeah it's not cheap. Oh you mean to wash the prints! 🤣 Jk. Actually it's not much. I use denatured alcohol and it's a lot cheaper than IPA. I don't change it as often as you think, maybe once a month. Not too bad.
A doubt... I put it to wash in alcohol and then I put it to wash in water... since my alcohol is already reasonably dirty... I use the water to wash it to remove the rest of the impurities that remain with the reused alcohol . Is there any problem doing this process in sequence?
There's no real issue with doing that. Just make sure the print is completely dry before curing or you can get water spots on the print.
@@TheCreativeCollector thank you... I usually do the cure the next day; but even so... there are parts that are "glossy" nothing big.. but it's strange
@@felipeprato glossy is from resin still not cleaned off. While.its in the IPA, use an old toothbrush to get in places and scrub it good. Not good for small parts but use ur own judgement.
It my first time printing big, i usually cure with sunlight bcs i live in tropical country, but i wanna know, how long can a print last without curing until a cracking occurs?
Cracking doesn't usually occur unless there's something wrong with the print, however I'd cure it within a reasonable amount of time.
@@TheCreativeCollector how long is that reasonable amount of time? hehe
Curing in sunlight takes up to 12 hours, whereas a UV light will cure in 5 Mins. I live in one of the sunniest parts of Spain and I don't use the sun to cure. 😂
How do I prevent my prints from shattering? I painted them, left them on my patio, and when I came back to them a couple of days later, they looked like they were shattered. Peeling, cracks, and inner shatter. What is going on and why? 😭
Sounds like maybe they weren't cured all the way. And this resin isn't the type to be left out in the elements like that.
Mesh mixer ? Correct ?
Correct
Resin printing is a lot like fdm when others print it! I do the same process as you for resin and I use walls and 5% infill on the fdm side, people don’t realize you don’t need to be wasteful printing non functional prints! Same with the resin people use, I see all kinds of people using $35-$65 bottles to print a statue, no no no hell no! Sunlu resin is cheapest and it does the job!
For my FDM prints I have gone almost exclusively to Cura's lightning infill. I love that setting: hollow everywhere except where it needs to support the model from the inside.
Lychee supports dont go through the model thats why I dont use chitubox and use lychee as my slicer of choice
Hey if that what works then don't change it!
Those interior supports have been annoying me for years.. wow. I had no idea about infill
check your mic dude! audio keeps cutting in and out.
It's because he was probably turning his head
It was. My mic sucks. lol
What mask do you wear??
Just a 3M respirator
@@TheCreativeCollector thanks for the response. You were doing a voice over on a previously shot video then. I’m having all sorts of trouble figuring out how safety conscious I should be even after doing this for a couple years. There’s plenty of TH-camrs who remove supports and such with just gloves and most skip over safety and I’m just at a loss.
So "50% precision" refers to what exactly? Obviously not the surface of the print....
Great tutorial on the slicer but an edit suggestion:
Music taste is subjective. For those that find a certain piece grating, hearing it over and over this high in the mix makes it less likely for many viewers to return.
😵💫👎
Thumbs up and a sub but hopefully this vid is the outlier in terms of 'music'. 😉
It refers to the inner surface of the print since some artists don't clean the inside and the print can be rigid. This helps when you have to punch a drain hole on an uneven surface.
I hear my supports up pop them off then wash it up
If I cannot fit a UV LED bulb inside the part to cure, then I just print it solid. Its not just about cleaning all the resin out, you HAVE to cure the inside as well or you will be left with a hard exterior and a soft interior and that difference in density is what causes cracking. This can also be avoided by using larger infill structures, it will only increase the cost a bit but its not worth risking a 100+ hr paint job let alone all the printing time it took to save a few dollars. I understand this may be the first time its happened, but all it will take is a humid day or a fast temp change to cause more of your models to begin splitting and since you do this for clients I would strongly suggest getting a UV LED with a 12v battery to shimmy inside and cure the model.
Well, I've never had any issues the way I hollow and print my models. I've had one cracked print in 3 years. You can print however you want, solid or hollow. That's on you. But like I said in the video, if you watched the whole thing, you don't need to use UV mini lights in some hollow pieces. The proof is in the countless models I've made. Oh, and I DON'T print for any clients dude. I make these for myself and that's it. You keep doing what works for you, and thanks for watching the vid.
Why not just print in clear and then paint so you know it's curing 100% all of the way through?
Because I can see more of the details in the grey resin. Clear is hard to see sometimes
@@TheCreativeCollector gotcha but after you paint them all the details back, right?
True. But I gotta see it to paint it. 😊
@@TheCreativeCollector Ah gotcha! I haven't painted resin stuff yet. I always thought they'd get primed with a white or grey etc. I'm still new to it all haha. Very good vid though.
Gotta say, man, every time you show hollowing and talk about how you don't support the interior, then you preview the layers up and down a few times, you can clearly see that there are islands that are not supported. In one case, you even showed the print after and casually pointed out that the print errored for some reason the peg cavity but that you could fix it. THAT was due to not supporting the inside of the model. Lot's of great info in your vids. I'm totally not a troll. But this makes me crazy every time you show your hollowing.
Well thanks for the feedback, but the infill isn't really meant to support anything other than the structure. Just to make it more stable if you will. And I'm not sure what islands you're referring to. Maybe its camera angle? But I've never had any resin pockets or islands in my models by doing this. I've printed well over 100 models in the past 2 years and I had only 1 issue, and that's the one in the video. Nine times out of ten when there are fails, it's due to something minor with the printer, resin, or my error, but usually never the hollowing process. This process works for me, so that's why I show it. And it's helped a lot of others as well. Anyways, thanks for the feedback and I appreciate your support. Happy printing!
So instead of hearing your machines in the background, you have shite music that sounds more like noise than noise does.
Thought about playing some death metal on there or would you prefer Celine Dion?
o_o Sorry but.. WHAT HAPPENED to your machines? They've seen WW2?
Because I use the shit outta them! 🤣
There is a REASON supports are generated with 0% infill. Your drain holes are all in the wrong places for the wrong reasons. I cannot stress how wrong this video is.
Is that so? Then try telling the countless other people who have printed this way with successful results as well as the other 200 plus models I've done with no issues. Sounds like maybe you're doing something wrong.