It is great to watch a real mechanic that knows what he is doing. Not just replacing parts. Not many of us real mechanics around anymore. Just parts replacers.
You call it a riveter. I call it a stake and anvil set. It would have come with several stakes, having different shaped tips, and several anvils, for different purposes and applications, and if course you'd end up making your own stakes and anvils for specialized or one-off tasks. Your vids are always a pleasure. Thank you.
You got it clean and looking great don’t work to late and love you show thanks for sharing and Mike Gods blessings for you brother keep up the great work and shows
You can also get one through the Brunswick corporation we have several clutch type mechanisms on the Brunswick bowling machines and we often have to change clutch linings and the tool that we have I have used also on Harley-Davidson clutch baskets is such same thing you're doing there but ours is a screw type put the little rivet through and then set it on the anvil and then we you screw it down till it rolls it and makes it tight but they offer these little anvils in the parts book I prefer the screw type instead of the impact type such as yours.. but that's just because I've gotten used to it over the years and not a lot of people know that you can change that on the back of your clutch hub so great tip and great tutorial Mike...
Brings me make to the days when working in the foreign car repair shop behind where I grew up replacing the shoes on VW brake shoes before when the shoes were bonded. We did not have a drill press so we would knock the rivets apart by using a chisel on the rivet that was exposed on the underside of the shoe. Then punch out the rivet. Good close ups! I just noticed someone gave you a thumbs down. Really!!!!!
Mike you remind me of Terry Finnley, a guy I worked with at Eagle Cycles here in KY.... I found some brass leather rivets online and used them on two fenders....on one side they looked like 12 gauge shotgun shells.
First time ever I decided to sling mike from the iPad to the ginormo screen and it’s like I’m right there in the shop with you! Just need to open a bottle of marvel mystery oil and it’s mike and mike in 4d! Thanks for another great video.
I was watching this and when you said this was a first, or would be the first without dropping one. I cringed, I’ve been a first responder for too many years and that sounded too close to someone saying “man, it sure is quite”. Like tempting fate to screw you over 😀 Keep doing what you’re doing, I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot
Sourced a similar rivet set tool from JC Whitney about 40 + years ago.(back when they sold such specialty tools) ...It also came with a rivet removal anvil & punch along with a couple different rivet setting anvil & punch...even with removal tools I prefer to carefully drill the old rivets... Recall CAREFULLY using a hand drill on brake lining rivets...My old JC Whit rivet tool appears to be cast frame vs the higher quality billet frame version you're using...Very handy...also reseats worn out snaps on leather jacket IF snap is along an edge...LOL!
Another awesome Pacific Mike HD video . I ordered the rivet tool despite have three sets of tools in my 45 years tool box I don't have a rivet tool for hubs and brakes but I do now thanks to Pacific Mike . And oh yeah I know probably only use it once but tools are cool 😊.
This channel is the best. Thank you Mike, it is a blessing that you pass years of trial and error on to the next gen of old Harley lovers. No computers, downloads, updates or mapping just real tools with real hands makin em run again. ☮️
Thank you, till you reminded me that they were brass rivets I was going to give you a little shit about not using a lubricant before drilling the old rivets. Parden me for doubting you. I'm about to start putting my 65 Bober back on the road after 12 years. I'll be watching this whole series before I start. Mike from Maryland.
No harm, no foul. I'll bet I wouldn't be good at what you do. It's not something everyone does. I've had customers (make no mistake, I loved them) that I would tell, "You are not permitted to touch hand tools."
I've got one too. I want to use that old foot operated riveter for a bunch of neat stuff. Just need to find tools for it. I can only do one size rivet on it.
Thanks for all your efforts in ya vids Mike. I can understand why you like the little kibs like riveting 🧐 I love all your videos but I really liked watching the 45 front wheel getting laced up. Cheers from macca. Kalgoorlie Western Australia 🇦🇺 🏍💨💨💨💨💨💨
@@pacificmike9501 yeah we all can’t wait 😜 but you can’t rush perfection 👍. Ps. Do you know if Harley Davidson sent 1943 Wla out of America 🇺🇸 to Australia with a blank case number? My 45ci has a strange case number V####P
Hi Mile, I noticed that you now have a compensator sprocket instead of the solid motor sprocket sitting in the lift. In my experience, solid sprockets eat primary chains pretty quick (probably why there was a lot of "stretch" on the old chain). The compensator helps a lot with primary chains lasting a LOT longer. I have that same setup on my '53. Only wish there was a 24 tooth option for the compensator sprockets in that design for tapered shafts! Of course, you already knew this, which is smart to put the compensating sprocket on this bike. Thanks for the instructional videos. I have learned things!
Thank You. I just brought that thing out to show it. It's a 22 tooth. They also made 23's. I'm putting this thing together with a solid sprocket and all used stuff. Useable, but used. When, some day, we redo this whole bike, she'll get a belt drive primary. Smooth, quiet, clean, low maintenance, higher geared. But for now, just getting her going. Doing it for very little money. Trying to demonstrate, "it can be done."
Love you videos. You've inspired me to build one from a titled frame up after I got my 71 FL running like a champ. Thanks to all of your help. Please keep em coming.
Mike, I guess I wasn't clear I got my 71 FL running so well from watching your videos that I bought a 74 FL frame with a title. Thats what I'm building now. Again, thanks to your encouraging videos.
isn't it great that even as we get older we can still celebrate doing things for the first time ? even if it is something simple like not dropping parts when we're assembling something :)
I haven't done one in probably 35-40 years. The reason is: If one stud went bad, the rest will follow soon. If that's the case, the rest of the hub is worn. Look at the keyway and see if the hub is cracked. By the time you restore it, you could have bought a new hub.
@@pacificmike9501 hmm. Makes sense- you have my # on various postcards. I'll send again. Don't fix - replace- s o m e. Things. Okay. You're still awesome Mike
I love your Videos !! , Just the fact that you work for fun & at home ( Im so Jealous ) I just wished you live closer to me, I would love to come by & hang out to help & learn more
Excellent video Mike, I just pulled the clutch hub out of my 61 and this will really help. Any tips on removing the main crank shaft seal on the 61? Thanks for the video
Hi Mike- super video. I have a question about that friction disc on the hub. What does it do exactly? What are the symptoms when its worn? Can it cause a chatter when releasing ( engaging) the clutch?. Thanks!
Not usually. Chatter is caused by several different things; wear on the fingers of the clutch hub, plates need cleaning, tension on the springs uneven, wear on the bearing surface of the hub or basket.
'Applying suitable amounts of pressure, to enable increasing friction among a chamber of well slippery customers' (Voters are reminded that this is NOT a description of standard Parliamentary procedure . . . it's a bike clutch. Y'all : )
Hey Mike, question: have you ever seen a 4 finger clutch and if so, do you know what its from? Got my pan 30 years ago and it had one in it, nobody knew what it was and couldn't find parts for it so I installed a 3 finger. The 4 finger has been in a box for the last 3 decades and I just thought of it watching your video. Great video also👍🇺🇲👍🇺🇲👍🇺🇲👍🇺🇲
@@pacificmike9501 its a very old clutch and I could never get info on it from anyone, I'll have to dig it out and take photo's and send them to you. Its been packed away so long I can hardly remember what it looks like. When you see it you might be blown away, its the only one I've ever seen and when I bought my pan 30 years ago, the license plates were 20 years old back then. When I first saw it I called a friend and told him and he said impossible, only 3 or 5 fingers, when he saw it he couldn't believe it. I'll dig it out, maybe you could shed some light on it for me.
@@oldchicago3216 Done 3 to 5 stud coil spring conversion but never seen a 4 ..??? Curious if you ever find out what it is...enjoy researching old weird mystery parts like that
Yes I have. But, that was back in the day. I find that if one pin is bad, the rest are quite worn. I know these things cost money, but a new clutch hub is really the way to go.
It's pretty straight forward. You'll need an inexpensive "bearing, seal installer" set to install the bearing races and seals. Look at the "blowup" picture in the manual. Replacing those parts is much like installing Timken type bearings in a wheel. Replace the bearings with matched new races, seals, and the spacers that go between the bearings and the frame. Install a new locktab when installing the pivot bolt. Torque as per service manual. Don't forget to pack the bearings with grease. Lack of grease is what wears them out.
Hey Mike, I guess your parts sources for these older bikes are, who? I have twin cams and I do order parts on line, but I also use a local Harley dealer near me but my motorcycles are a 2000 and 2004. If I keep them long enough I’m sure some items from a dealer will be obsolete or no longer available.
HI Mike!! Can you please tell how I can replace studs in the clutch hub like this ? I have the 3 long in really bad shape, and I wold like to replace Thanks an regards Leo!
It's in the service manual and tools are available. Nowdays, the suppliers all carry clutch hubs and they aren't terribly expensive. By the time you tool up and rebuild an old hub, you could have had a new one. I don't mean to criticize, but if the studs are going, it's probably a good idea to have a new hub.
Support the rivet from the back and grind a punch to do the job. A proper tool will do a better job. But you can get creative. You might even see if a shoe repair guy has a tool he can loan you. Maybe there is a brake shop in your neighborhood.
I hope I wasn't rude. If you wanted to control the crush on Harley's brass rivets, it really wouldn't be that difficult a tool to make. And, it's not a bad idea.
You should have a Harley parts manual. But, assuming you are working on a 41up Harley Big Twin dry clutch, there are three sizes (I assume this is allowing for wear in the clutch hub?. 3/16 x 7/32, 3/16 x 9/32 and 3/16 x 11/32. These are part no.'s 8226, 8227, and 8232 respectively.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you, Mike. I never thought to look in the parts manual. You know how the old service manuals are. You look for a torque value and it says, “tighten sufficiently “. So the rivet size would probably say, “use rivet that fits hole”. Lol Thanks again, Mike
I know why you enjoy it, it is because you are actually rebuilding a worn part and making it useful again.
Yep.
Nice to see a couple glimpses of the forgotten Flathead project.
Not forgotten! Everything is important. Things must be maintained! Friends are important. The dog is important. The Flathead will take time and money.
@@pacificmike9501 I always say place, tools, time and money
It is great to watch a real mechanic that knows what he is doing. Not just replacing parts. Not many of us real mechanics around anymore. Just parts replacers.
I think it's called progress. I don't get it.
You call it a riveter. I call it a stake and anvil set. It would have come with several stakes, having different shaped tips, and several anvils, for different purposes and applications, and if course you'd end up making your own stakes and anvils for specialized or one-off tasks. Your vids are always a pleasure. Thank you.
You are right! Thank You
Proper tool for a proper job. 62 yrs young here and the grey matter still absorbs. Outstanding!!
I think we all love tools. Thank You
Any time you're rebuilding, installing or manufacturing a part and a Dog Hair is involved....It is now a professional job. Good video, Thanks
Sonia agrees.
Hi Mike,
Super videos,
Take Care.
Thanks, you too!
You got it clean and looking great don’t work to late and love you show thanks for sharing and Mike Gods blessings for you brother keep up the great work and shows
Thank You and you too.
Good evening Mike !! Thank you for posting this video . I’ve had the same 48 pan since 1974. Still runs great . Needs cleaning though .
Just needs cleaning because you use it right?
The truth is I am a slob. It gets washed about once a decade.
Whatever works for you.
I shoulda worn a helmet ! 🤪
You can also get one through the Brunswick corporation we have several clutch type mechanisms on the Brunswick bowling machines and we often have to change clutch linings and the tool that we have I have used also on Harley-Davidson clutch baskets is such same thing you're doing there but ours is a screw type put the little rivet through and then set it on the anvil and then we you screw it down till it rolls it and makes it tight but they offer these little anvils in the parts book I prefer the screw type instead of the impact type such as yours.. but that's just because I've gotten used to it over the years and not a lot of people know that you can change that on the back of your clutch hub so great tip and great tutorial Mike...
Very cool. Thank You.
Brings me make to the days when working in the foreign car repair shop behind where I grew up replacing the shoes on VW brake shoes before when the shoes were bonded. We did not have a drill press so we would knock the rivets apart by using a chisel on the rivet that was exposed on the underside of the shoe. Then punch out the rivet. Good close ups! I just noticed someone gave you a thumbs down. Really!!!!!
Thank You.
Mike you remind me of Terry Finnley, a guy I worked with at Eagle Cycles here in KY.... I found some brass leather rivets online and used them on two fenders....on one side they looked like 12 gauge shotgun shells.
Cool.
First time ever I decided to sling mike from the iPad to the ginormo screen and it’s like I’m right there in the shop with you! Just need to open a bottle of marvel mystery oil and it’s mike and mike in 4d! Thanks for another great video.
That is awesome! Thank You
its nice having knowledge of old harleys shared, i like to do all my own work so these are tutorials to me. i appreciate it
Glad you like them!
What a superb job that riveting tool makes of those rivets👍
Thanks 👍
Very interesting Mike. I liked your rivet set for brass rivets!
Glad you liked it!
Enjoy all your videos...you are the best.
Glad you like them!
Step by step, she's getting a new lease on life. I'm enjoying it too!
Yah, but we're not going far. We're not spending much money. We'll just get her going again.
Thanks Mike for another great video!
Thanks for watching!
Mike, another liked video, see you out on the road!!!
Cool. Stay well.
Always enjoy watching you perform surgery on a motorcycle!
Thank You
I was watching this and when you said this was a first, or would be the first without dropping one. I cringed, I’ve been a first responder for too many years and that sounded too close to someone saying “man, it sure is quite”. Like tempting fate to screw you over 😀
Keep doing what you’re doing, I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot
Thank You. I just usually drop a rivet and have to find it on the floor. Just picking on myself.
Sourced a similar rivet set tool from JC Whitney about 40 + years ago.(back when they sold such specialty tools) ...It also came with a rivet removal anvil & punch along with a couple different rivet setting anvil & punch...even with removal tools I prefer to carefully drill the old rivets... Recall CAREFULLY using a hand drill on brake lining rivets...My old JC Whit rivet tool appears to be cast frame vs the higher quality billet frame version you're using...Very handy...also reseats worn out snaps on leather jacket IF snap is along an edge...LOL!
Cool.
Another awesome Pacific Mike HD video . I ordered the rivet tool despite have three sets of tools in my 45 years tool box I don't have a rivet tool for hubs and brakes but I do now thanks to Pacific Mike . And oh yeah I know probably only use it once but tools are cool 😊.
Very cool!
That was very interesting. Looks therapeutic
I enjoy it.
This channel is the best. Thank you Mike, it is a blessing that you pass years of trial and error on to the next gen of old Harley lovers. No computers, downloads, updates or mapping just real tools with real hands makin em run again. ☮️
Thank You
Thank you, till you reminded me that they were brass rivets I was going to give you a little shit about not using a lubricant before drilling the old rivets. Parden me for doubting you. I'm about to start putting my 65 Bober back on the road after 12 years. I'll be watching this whole series before I start. Mike from Maryland.
Thank You. Enjoy it.
I do like watching these Mike but I'll leave that sort of work to people who actually know what they're doing. Like you. 👍
No harm, no foul. I'll bet I wouldn't be good at what you do. It's not something everyone does. I've had customers (make no mistake, I loved them) that I would tell, "You are not permitted to touch hand tools."
This is the best info on maintenance and repair.
Thank You.
Great video ,as always. Used to replace truck brake linings and used a foot operated riveter. Looking real nice !
I've got one too. I want to use that old foot operated riveter for a bunch of neat stuff. Just need to find tools for it. I can only do one size rivet on it.
Thanks for all your efforts in ya vids Mike.
I can understand why you like the little kibs like riveting 🧐 I love all your videos but I really liked watching the 45 front wheel getting laced up. Cheers from macca.
Kalgoorlie Western Australia 🇦🇺
🏍💨💨💨💨💨💨
Thank You. That was a front wheel for a Flathead 80, not 45.
@@pacificmike9501 ah that’s right, sorry mate. 👍
It's good. I'm still excited about that thing and can't wait to get back on it. We'll hopefully get there soon. Take care.
@@pacificmike9501 yeah we all can’t wait 😜 but you can’t rush perfection 👍.
Ps. Do you know if Harley Davidson sent 1943 Wla out of America 🇺🇸 to Australia with a blank case number? My 45ci has a strange case number V####P
Hi Mile, I noticed that you now have a compensator sprocket instead of the solid motor sprocket sitting in the lift. In my experience, solid sprockets eat primary chains pretty quick (probably why there was a lot of "stretch" on the old chain). The compensator helps a lot with primary chains lasting a LOT longer. I have that same setup on my '53. Only wish there was a 24 tooth option for the compensator sprockets in that design for tapered shafts!
Of course, you already knew this, which is smart to put the compensating sprocket on this bike. Thanks for the instructional videos. I have learned things!
Thank You. I just brought that thing out to show it. It's a 22 tooth. They also made 23's. I'm putting this thing together with a solid sprocket and all used stuff. Useable, but used. When, some day, we redo this whole bike, she'll get a belt drive primary. Smooth, quiet, clean, low maintenance, higher geared. But for now, just getting her going. Doing it for very little money. Trying to demonstrate, "it can be done."
Love you videos. You've inspired me to build one from a titled frame up after I got my 71 FL running like a champ. Thanks to all of your help. Please keep em coming.
Harley frames earlier than 70, have no vin.
Thank You.
Mike, I guess I wasn't clear I got my 71 FL running so well from watching your videos that I bought a 74 FL frame with a title. Thats what I'm building now. Again, thanks to your encouraging videos.
That really does make me feel good. By the way, that info on vin's was just thrown in as trivia.
Love your old tools Mike !
Thank You.
Nice job as always! 👍👍 🇨🇦
Thank You
In our shop, we put it: We'll use the better stuff. Nice work that!
Thank You
isn't it great that even as we get older we can still celebrate doing things for the first time ? even if it is something simple like not dropping parts when we're assembling something :)
Funny.
As always, thank you. I’ll see you on the next one.
Thank You. See you then.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
Glad you enjoyed it
I'd be interested in a video on how to replace the studs on the clutch hub.
Engem is érdekel
I haven't done one in probably 35-40 years. The reason is: If one stud went bad, the rest will follow soon. If that's the case, the rest of the hub is worn. Look at the keyway and see if the hub is cracked. By the time you restore it, you could have bought a new hub.
@@pacificmike9501 hmm. Makes sense- you have my # on various postcards. I'll send again.
Don't fix - replace- s o m e. Things. Okay. You're still awesome Mike
Always enjoy your view this one was riveting 😊 thanks Mike
At least no one wants to say , "You nailed it!"
A rivetless, freefloating clutch hub friction disc made of nylatron with more surface area and no messy rivets to weaken the disc, is great upgrade.
Yes, they work fine. Never had actual problems with any of them.
I love your Videos !! , Just the fact that you work for fun & at home ( Im so Jealous ) I just wished you live closer to me, I would love to come by & hang out to help & learn more
Thank You.
nice peek at the flathead
She's waiting patiently.
Fantastic to watch this prozess !
Glad you enjoyed it!
thats what i was saing last time about country " fixers " there is so much more than "replacing" parts ...
Old style stuff. I love it.
Thanks mike.
You're quite welcome.
I've seen similar rivet stakers with a spring or detent to allow part loading without disassembly.
Thanks again.
Cool.
Hand crafted clutch .. too cool.
That's just normal, "The old way to do it."
Bloody brilliant mate!
Thank You
That's a nice drill press
Thank You. A resurrected 1946 Craftsman. I've got a much bigger older one I'm in love with too.
🙏🏻thanks , Pacific Mike
Thank You
I did like the job of riveting my brake pads on my 55 pan head front and rear wheels
Cool.
Excellent video Mike, I just pulled the clutch hub out of my 61 and this will really help. Any tips on removing the main crank shaft seal on the 61? Thanks for the video
Big deal is that it is a left hand thread.
@@pacificmike9501 Okay, Thank you
HOWDY Mike,
Part 3 of the PAN rehab inside the TINS
COOP
..................................................
Somebody gotta do it.
Cool vid as usual. What is the best way to get hold of you. Thanks
I pick up my mail at a shop my friend has. The address is:
American V-Twin Att: Pacific Mike
448 E. 4th Street
Beaumont, Ca. 92223
✊🏻👍👌🙏👋
Miss my old 4 speed ; I have Jim’s 5 speed in 4 speed case . Well gotta get a kicker on it . Just looks right with the shovelhead. 😁
I understand. I run Baker 6 speed with a kicker on my Shovelhead. Had to make pipes to clear it. But it's been there since about 04, I think.
@@pacificmike9501 amen ; I will have to do the same -
✊🏻👍👌🙏
Kicker on- yes- comes in handy.
@@charlottesantafe1709 yup ; ain’t good fer knee but it better there and also fer looks - ✊🏻👍👌
@@crspcritter it's annoying to me when riding .... I can suffer. Stay healthy , stay happy!
Thank You .
You're quite welcome.
Someone likes orange RVT!
It's not leaking. We'll leave it for now. We'll open the engine eventually, when some day , we disassemble the whole bike.
Hi Mike- super video. I have a question about that friction disc on the hub. What does it do exactly? What are the symptoms when its worn? Can it cause a chatter when releasing ( engaging) the clutch?. Thanks!
Not usually. Chatter is caused by several different things; wear on the fingers of the clutch hub, plates need cleaning, tension on the springs uneven, wear on the bearing surface of the hub or basket.
Don't really need a riveter, but for some reason I really want one.
It's because they're cool.
If the old lining is intact, but the rivets are loose, trying to tighten up the rivets makes the lining crack.
Yep.
Master Mike
Thank You
'Applying suitable amounts of pressure, to enable increasing friction among a chamber of well slippery customers'
(Voters are reminded that this is NOT a description of standard Parliamentary procedure . . . it's a bike clutch. Y'all : )
Well said.
Hey Mike, question: have you ever seen a 4 finger clutch and if so, do you know what its from? Got my pan 30 years ago and it had one in it, nobody knew what it was and couldn't find parts for it so I installed a 3 finger. The 4 finger has been in a box for the last 3 decades and I just thought of it watching your video. Great video also👍🇺🇲👍🇺🇲👍🇺🇲👍🇺🇲
The Pro Clutch has 4 fingers. But it is a diaphragm clutch. Is this thing a coil spring clutch or what? Don't know what it looks like.
@@pacificmike9501 its a very old clutch and I could never get info on it from anyone, I'll have to dig it out and take photo's and send them to you. Its been packed away so long I can hardly remember what it looks like. When you see it you might be blown away, its the only one I've ever seen and when I bought my pan 30 years ago, the license plates were 20 years old back then. When I first saw it I called a friend and told him and he said impossible, only 3 or 5 fingers, when he saw it he couldn't believe it. I'll dig it out, maybe you could shed some light on it for me.
@@oldchicago3216 Done 3 to 5 stud coil spring conversion but never seen a 4 ..??? Curious if you ever find out what it is...enjoy researching old weird mystery parts like that
We'll see.
Have you ever replaced the pins in the clutch hub? Can you show it on an old hub? Thanks and keep up the great videos.
Yes I have. But, that was back in the day. I find that if one pin is bad, the rest are quite worn. I know these things cost money, but a new clutch hub is really the way to go.
Yo, Mike, my 77 Electra Glide swing arm has play at the bearings, do you have a video on replacing them?
It's pretty straight forward. You'll need an inexpensive "bearing, seal installer" set to install the bearing races and seals. Look at the "blowup" picture in the manual. Replacing those parts is much like installing Timken type bearings in a wheel. Replace the bearings with matched new races, seals, and the spacers that go between the bearings and the frame. Install a new locktab when installing the pivot bolt. Torque as per service manual. Don't forget to pack the bearings with grease. Lack of grease is what wears them out.
@@pacificmike9501 if I needed to remove the inner primary
Nope. Pivot bolt comes out from the right side. Remove wheel, brake, get the chain out of the way. Remove the shocks. Remove the swingarm.
Thanks Mike 👍
Thank you
You're welcome
Hey Mike, I guess your parts sources for these older bikes are, who? I have twin cams and I do order parts on line, but I also use a local Harley dealer near me but my motorcycles are a 2000 and 2004. If I keep them long enough I’m sure some items from a dealer will be obsolete or no longer available.
This goes on forever. Depending on what you need, there are many aftermarket suppliers. They're all over the internet or the aftermarket shops.
HI Mike!! Can you please tell how I can replace studs in the clutch hub like this ? I have the 3 long in really bad shape, and I wold like to replace Thanks an regards Leo!
It's in the service manual and tools are available. Nowdays, the suppliers all carry clutch hubs and they aren't terribly expensive. By the time you tool up and rebuild an old hub, you could have had a new one. I don't mean to criticize, but if the studs are going, it's probably a good idea to have a new hub.
I'd Sharpie the starting point for the rivets
Okay.
Hanson Rivet
Thank You
mike, i dont have this riviting tool. do you have another way i can do the liner?
Support the rivet from the back and grind a punch to do the job. A proper tool will do a better job. But you can get creative. You might even see if a shoe repair guy has a tool he can loan you. Maybe there is a brake shop in your neighborhood.
that arbor would be better for control if it has a threaded ram ,you can control the crush on each rivet.
It's really a simple and easy operation. It could be refined, but it's not necessary.
I hope I wasn't rude. If you wanted to control the crush on Harley's brass rivets, it really wouldn't be that difficult a tool to make. And, it's not a bad idea.
It will is fun most people just buy a new hub this is better
Plenty of life left in this one.
👍🖖
Thank You
I like the old technology. All it needs is fuel injection and an ECM and get stuck .
Different strokes. Some like one. Some like the other. They are most certainly different.
Mike, do you know what size the rivets are?
You should have a Harley parts manual. But, assuming you are working on a 41up Harley Big Twin dry clutch, there are three sizes (I assume this is allowing for wear in the clutch hub?. 3/16 x 7/32, 3/16 x 9/32 and 3/16 x 11/32. These are part no.'s 8226, 8227, and 8232 respectively.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you, Mike. I never thought to look in the parts manual. You know how the old service manuals are. You look for a torque value and it says, “tighten sufficiently “. So the rivet size would probably say, “use rivet that fits hole”. Lol Thanks again, Mike
Maybe in your lst life you was a ships ribiter
I had a frog that used to say that.
@@pacificmike9501 😆