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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- Install and Review of the Auxbeam AR820 8 Gang Switch Panel and fuse block as well as a set of V-Series 5" Driving lights w/ side shooters and DRL's. This video will show you how to install and wire an Auxbeam Switch panel as well as how to wire a pair of driving lights to the switch panel and fuse block.
(These are affiliate links - no extra cost to you, but I do get a commission on qualifying purchases)
Buy an Auxbeam Switch Panel Here: shrsl.com/4e7d7
Purchase Auxbeam V-Series 5" Driving Lights: shrsl.com/4e7dd
Other Tools Shown in the video:
As an Amazon affiliates/associates member, I earn referral fees on qualifying Amazon purchases.
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Battery Terminals: sdhqoffroad.co...
Thanks for putting this together. The most comprehensive video I’ve come across.
Thank you! I appreciate it.
Thank you, thank you, You are the only one that explain how to wire in the DRL, Auxbeam customer support was no help and they would only email me and they didn't know how to wire in the DRL. so and agian thanks. and now I'm a new subcriber, great video. Thanks to you I just order me a RC blk series 20" light bar with DRL...💪
A note for mounting fuses. You want them as close to the power source as possible. If there is a short in that power wire somewhere between battery and the fuse there is no short protection.
still missing the r50 content. i still go back and look at your posts when i have questions :’)
I appreciate it man!
Excellent tutorial. I will be picking one up. Also those SDHQ terminals. Thanks!
Awesome! Glad the video helped
Great video, It's exciting to see the next episode
Thank you!
Thank you for this video, very informative!
Thanks! Glad you liked it
This is great content 👌🏼 will need to order this kit asap!
You lost me on the DL splicing. But I’m sure I can figure that part out.
Thanks! Do it.
Just needed a “ignition-fused” source for the DRL, so I used the same wire that powers the switch panel (the one that tapped the fuse in the interior). It worked great!
Hey Tyler! Scrolling through your videos to see what ya got and noticed the auxbeam video. Great video btw! I recently tried to search for the first gen tundra auxbeam setup and nothing came up. Probably because the title doesn’t include the vehicle name.
Would you consider doing a second battery setup for the tundra?
Thank you.
I have relatively low power needs for my truck, so a second battery is not in the works.
A bit jealous of how much space you have in your engine bay....I had to put my aux box on top of my fuse box.
Nice!!
Love the Tacoma🔥
The tundra? Thanks!
Bro so thought that was a Tacoma but I also didn’t watch the whole video
I have an Auxbeam 6 Modes Amber White LED Pods XP-Ultra Series 3Inch 96W Dual Color. I installed them into a switch box but I cannot make the yellow works. They are connected red and black on one slot and the yellow cable for the dlr amber in another by itself on another slot, I cut the wires right before the relay from the harness. Any idea what i am doing wrong?
I don’t know what might be going wrong. If you can build a “test” circuit with a 12V or 18V drill battery before assembling it, that usually clears up the wiring job. That what I always do.
Great video, buy some automatic wire strippers! They’re worth every penny, trust me!
That would be nice! Might have to get some
I like your video. However, the wire from the battery to the large fuse block should be kept as short as possible. Having the wire from the battery running across the engine bay to the large fuse block means that if anything wears through the shielding on that power wire between the battery and the fuse block it could short out and burn up the whole vehicle. The large fuse block should be mounted as close to the batter as is practical and then run the wire across the engine bay. That way if anything happens the fuse in the large fuse block will blow and protect the vehicle from a fire. 😉 Other than that great video. Thanks
I agree. Which is why, I mounted the fuse block as close to the battery as I could….
I test fit many locations, none would allow the hood to close. Only the jankiest of mounting solutions would allow a short power wire.
I figure a solid mount and a solidly secured wire is far better than a mounting solution that risks the whole box falling/wiggling and is far more likely to cause a short.
The current setup has no movement, no rub points. It’s as good as it gets for the engine bay I have. You’ll see similar setups on other first gen tundras, though some have a low enough brake booster that they can fit theirs near there.
Quick question, I’m new to this, how did you know which amp fuse to use for these lights? You used the 30amp fuse I think correct?
You can do math to guess it. A 30A fuse on a 12V system will work for up to 360 Watts of power (Power = Amperage * Voltage)
Good video.
Please use proper crimping tools
All of the connections you made are not good crimps and most likely will fail.
Overall a good video
Question - When I ran the SwitchPro9100 on my old truck, say to some rear bumper lights, I was able to ground the lights on the chassis at the back of the truck and simply run 1 hot wire up to the control box. As the Aux Beam box has both + and - terminals for each switch....do you HAVE to run the second wire (ground) up to the box or can you leave that open and just ground the accessory on the chassis somewhere? I've looked fro the answer, but no joy. I liked only having to run 1 wire to the SwitchPro box vs 2 wires (if required) to the Aux Beam.
Or perhaps you can combine all of the grounds from the box to a single ground near the box..and ground the accessory at the location where it's mounted.
I suck at electrical things....not sure if you experimented with it.
Ground is ground. So run it to the box or to the chassis, both should work
@@208Tyler Thanks man...just ordered it. I just wasn't sure if the ground from the box not being...ground would cause an issue. Much appreciate the reply.