I haven't really had an issue with manual grease guns, but the pneumatic one I got recently had been giving me a hard time. It isn't a lincoln but I bet it works exactly the same inside, and I never knew about the 1/4 turn since I never had this issue prior. I'll be giving it another shot when I'm back at work.
Great video! Just exactly what I needed. Have two of the Lincoln 1162 Air Operated Grease Guns at work with no manuals or any prior knowledge of using grease guns. Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I think my grease gun is poor quality, but I didn't pack the top or squeeze slowly. My forearms are twice the size after pumping it for minutes with nothing. I'm going to get a better one because with things like this, it gets messy real quick. I appreciate the tips!
I was baffled when this video didn't solve the "air lock" problem with my usually trusty compressed air grease gun. Then a little detective work led to an easy to fix but obscure problem. The seal on the plunger within the AIR piston chamber was no longer air tight against the walls. Just run some grease around the walls and the seal itself. Problem solved. In retrospect the sure sign that this is what was going on was a stronger than usual air blast out of the ~1/16 inch diameter exhaust port on the air piston chamber (near the top of the gun) each time the trigger was pulled. This may save some of your users some real aggravation.
@@Pawnee123-r1bIn the end I found that although this could temporarily solve the problem the only permanent solution was to buy a new grease gun. The seals have a limited lifetime and on most models are not replaceable.
I noticed in this video you somehow twisted the rod and pushed it all the way into the tube with a FULL CARTRIDGE. How is that possible with a tube full of grease? Is there any spring pressure on the grease then since I thought the follower is hard connected to the pull rod?
If you watch at 1:40, the insert on the bottom left shows how the rod locks into the plunger so the user can press on the grease to assist in forcing air from between the grease and the head of the grease gun. Simply twisting the rod with a small amount of pressure will disengage the rod and allow it to store in the tube assembly. ~ John
if only it was that easy, I've had extreme difficulty priming cordless and pneumatic [ air ] guns, I've learned of a new trick that ill be trying, packing the head of the gun before threading tube on, I've seen this in a couple videos and it seems to work and its the only thing i haven't tried, ill be trying it next time.....
It's normally because pneumatic and battery operated units are cycling so fast, they simply cavitate if the air pocket is a significant size. The goal is to remove as much air as possible between the lubricant in the cartridge and the piston before cycling the unit so it does not become airbound/airlocked. Packing the head with lubricant and bleeding the trapped air through the tube assembly threads before hand usually solves this problem. ~John.
@@lincolnindustrial Can you please tell me here in the comments how to store it? I just bought one and used it. No where in the instructions does it tell you how to store it. Thanks!
Best practice is to store unit in a cool dry place while not in use. Gun can be stored with grease cartridge installed if it will be used frequently, however if there is significant time between uses(couple months or more), remove the grease cartridge, cap both ends of said cartridge and store with the gun in a cool dry place until next use. ~John
The included air nipple is the Lincoln style air nipple which works with our Model 815 coupler. However, you may use any air nipple/ coupler setup available that fits the 1/4"npt(f) air inlet port. ~ John
Okay, I just received my Lincoln model 1134 Professional Pistol Grip Grease Gun the other day and read the instructions prior to loading it. After removing both ends of the grease cartridge and inserting it, I then reinstalled both ends of the grease gun and released the plunger. I squeezed the pistol grip several times and attempted to bleed the gun but nothing happening. This went on for about an hour, including taking both ends of the gun off to see what the hangup was. It appears that the follower is too large for the standard grease cartridge and only by angling it will the follower enter the cartridge. I got the gun to work but I have a sneaking suspicion that the follower isn't moving inside the cartridge. I watched another video and the tutor banged the plunger on a vise a couple of times to get the thing to work. Any suggestions???
The follower in our current grease guns was designed for universal use between cartridge filling and bulk filling without the need to Flip the lips forward like our previous design. It has tighter tolerances so it may need a little help in the beginning until the rubber is broken in a bit especially when using grease cartridges. I would suggest locking the follower rod into the follower assembly and applying pressure until you can not push the assembly any further down the tube. take special care with cardboard cartridges as too much pressure may crush the end of the cartridge and keep the follower from entering the cartridge. ~John
Followed directions and video carefully. Could not prime new lincoln grease gun 1134. Bleeder valve is a POS. It's cross threaded now so new gun is trash.
most of our newer model grease guns have a thermal protection in them that will shut the gun off if too high of an amp draw is detected. This protects the motor from burning up. In some guns a flashing red screen may also indicate loss of prime and will shut the gun down if attempting to dispense continues too long while airbound. Usually occurs at very high pressure, such as a blockage, or resistance in the lubrication point. We normally suggest cleaning passages in the head of the gun and flushing the whip hose to see if this will help. ~ John
I must have the worst luck with grease guns. I have had them for thirty years & everytime I ran out of grease & loaded another tube of grease. The fist fight starts. I do everything right but I lose prime everytime. Very frustrating! I’m on my third grease gun. I currently own a Lincoln 18 volt grease gun thinking this would be easier? Not! Still have trouble everytime? WTF? Is this just me? Or are ALL grease guns this hard? By the way? All my previous grease guns had the same fate at the end. I brought them to work & flatten them with a outrigger. There were a lot of smiles 😃 as I heard the metal & cast aluminum parts shatter. If I had as much trouble with them? I certainly didn’t want someone finding it thinking it was still good? Hence the flat grease gun.
I am sorry to hear you are having issues with grease guns. In our experience with units returned to us for evaluation, loss of prime is mostly caused by debris entering the head or a loose tube assembly allowing air to be drawn through the threads. We suggest cleaning the head of any material that could be causing the checks to stay open. There is a video outlining the process on our channel. In many cases when priming takes a while, the issue is usually a large air pocket in between the grease in the cartridge and the piston in the head. this air pocket needs to be eliminated for the gun to be primed effectively. ~ John
Yes, it’s an air pocket. I usually have to actually unscrew both vent caps fully. I don’t know why this is? It just is. I had this problem with my last grease gun as well. Hence why everytime it failed to push grease I would have to keep trying to prime? Priming often took more time to happen than the total time it took to grease the front end on my truck. After twenty years I had enough of it & crushed it at work. I had a similar problem with a pair of blue tooth speakers. I bought them as a pair. Except they never paired? I downloaded their app & tried & tried & tried. I watched TH-cam videos on pairing? Nothing worked. I contacted the manufacturer several times as they were still under warranty. Nothing worked! I brought them to work & squashed them with my work truck.
yes, soon... I have a video to cover the common fill methods on my list to shoot in the very near future. The quick explanation uses a manual bulk fill pump such as our 500L or 1296. Most of our grease guns are supplied with the bulk fill nipple already attached, if it doesn't the p/n 91108 is attached to the head. It's a simple matter of connecting the bulk filler socket to the grease gun nipple and cycling the bulk pump handle until the notch in the follower rod reaches the notch in the end cap of the grease gun tube assembly. Unlock the follower rod from the follower and you are ready to use. ~ John
Damn all grease guns! Most of the time, you can pump them till the cows come home and get no grease. (Yes, mine is a Lincoln!) On those rare occasions when they will pump, the grease just oozes out between the nozzle and the fitting. I would be ashamed of myself to make such sorry products. In over 100 years, why hasn't somebody invented something better?
Hi Mike, These guns, couplers and fittings have been around for many years. Have been tested and found to be very sound popular designs. However, to comment on a few of your points, The video should answer the first one, gun was not fully primed. In addition, the environment you are working in as well as the lubricant dispensed will effect performance of the gun itself. Cold weather causes lubricant to thicken and flow much more slowly. The lubricant, if it's thick, or very tacky will require slower dispensing rate or at least a bit more time to allow for a full prime. To the second point of oozing grease: Lubricant bypass between the coupler and fitting attachment points occur due to two main reasons: Fitting/coupler damage or contamination. We usually point to the contamination first. If any debris(dirt, fibers, dried grease, etc) gets in between the mating surfaces of the coupler and fitting, there will not be a full seal which will leak. If the fitting head is damaged such as scrapes, or corrosion, the two sealing surfaces will not fully meet causing leakage. Our suggestions when we received these inquiries is always to attempt to fully clean the fitting head and coupler of any contamination first, If that does not work, replace the fitting. Lastly, the coupler has a complete seal up to 15° angle on the fitting, any further, the coupler may disengage or leak.I hope this helps with a better understanding of these units. If you have any further questions feel free to contact our technical department for assistance.
@@lincolnindustrial Translation from corporate PR to English: One or twice per lifetime all the necessary stars just might happen to align such that the damn thing will work as intended and promised. The rest of the time, forget it!
@@muddjim55 That's what they all say, so don't you think I've tried that every imaginable way? It does no good! I've got a better idea: Throw the damn useless thing away! It will grease your machines just as well from the landfill as it does in your hands.
Thanks Guys! That trick with locking the rod to the piston got my air purged and grease gun primed!
I haven't really had an issue with manual grease guns, but the pneumatic one I got recently had been giving me a hard time. It isn't a lincoln but I bet it works exactly the same inside, and I never knew about the 1/4 turn since I never had this issue prior. I'll be giving it another shot when I'm back at work.
Thanks I got my new Lincoln pneumatic grease gun working great off the air line from my glad hand connection.
Great video! Just exactly what I needed. Have two of the Lincoln 1162 Air Operated Grease Guns at work with no manuals or any prior knowledge of using grease guns. Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I think my grease gun is poor quality, but I didn't pack the top or squeeze slowly. My forearms are twice the size after pumping it for minutes with nothing. I'm going to get a better one because with things like this, it gets messy real quick. I appreciate the tips!
I was baffled when this video didn't solve the "air lock" problem with my usually trusty compressed air grease gun. Then a little detective work led to an easy to fix but obscure problem. The seal on the plunger within the AIR piston chamber was no longer air tight against the walls. Just run some grease around the walls and the seal itself. Problem solved. In retrospect the sure sign that this is what was going on was a stronger than usual air blast out of the ~1/16 inch diameter exhaust port on the air piston chamber (near the top of the gun) each time the trigger was pulled. This may save some of your users some real aggravation.
THANK YOU. I’m going to try this! I’m having such a hard time with mine. 😣
@@Pawnee123-r1bIn the end I found that although this could temporarily solve the problem the only permanent solution was to buy a new grease gun. The seals have a limited lifetime and on most models are not replaceable.
Excellent video!
Thank you. Very helpful.
Thanks. Very helpful.
I noticed in this video you somehow twisted the rod and pushed it all the way into the tube with a FULL CARTRIDGE. How is that possible with a tube full of grease? Is there any spring pressure on the grease then since I thought the follower is hard connected to the pull rod?
If you watch at 1:40, the insert on the bottom left shows how the rod locks into the plunger so the user can press on the grease to assist in forcing air from between the grease and the head of the grease gun. Simply twisting the rod with a small amount of pressure will disengage the rod and allow it to store in the tube assembly.
~ John
if only it was that easy, I've had extreme difficulty priming cordless and pneumatic [ air ] guns, I've learned of a new trick that ill be trying, packing the head of the gun before threading tube on, I've seen this in a couple videos and it seems to work and its the only thing i haven't tried, ill be trying it next time.....
It's normally because pneumatic and battery operated units are cycling so fast, they simply cavitate if the air pocket is a significant size. The goal is to remove as much air as possible between the lubricant in the cartridge and the piston before cycling the unit so it does not become airbound/airlocked. Packing the head with lubricant and bleeding the trapped air through the tube assembly threads before hand usually solves this problem.
~John.
Please make a video on how to store the grease gun properly!
Great Idea! Thank you for the input. I will add this to our topic list.
~John
@@lincolnindustrial Can you please tell me here in the comments how to store it? I just bought one and used it. No where in the instructions does it tell you how to store it. Thanks!
Best practice is to store unit in a cool dry place while not in use. Gun can be stored with grease cartridge installed if it will be used frequently, however if there is significant time between uses(couple months or more), remove the grease cartridge, cap both ends of said cartridge and store with the gun in a cool dry place until next use.
~John
@@lincolnindustrial THANKS!
Very good vídeo
Thank you
Perfect...thanks!
On the pneumatic grease gun can I use any air nipple or is the extra long one included required?
The included air nipple is the Lincoln style air nipple which works with our Model 815 coupler. However, you may use any air nipple/ coupler setup available that fits the 1/4"npt(f) air inlet port.
~ John
Okay, I just received my Lincoln model 1134 Professional Pistol Grip Grease Gun the other day and read the instructions prior to loading it. After removing both ends of the grease cartridge and inserting it, I then reinstalled both ends of the grease gun and released the plunger. I squeezed the pistol grip several times and attempted to bleed the gun but nothing happening. This went on for about an hour, including taking both ends of the gun off to see what the hangup was. It appears that the follower is too large for the standard grease cartridge and only by angling it will the follower enter the cartridge. I got the gun to work but I have a sneaking suspicion that the follower isn't moving inside the cartridge. I watched another video and the tutor banged the plunger on a vise a couple of times to get the thing to work. Any suggestions???
The follower in our current grease guns was designed for universal use between cartridge filling and bulk filling without the need to Flip the lips forward like our previous design. It has tighter tolerances so it may need a little help in the beginning until the rubber is broken in a bit especially when using grease cartridges. I would suggest locking the follower rod into the follower assembly and applying pressure until you can not push the assembly any further down the tube. take special care with cardboard cartridges as too much pressure may crush the end of the cartridge and keep the follower from entering the cartridge.
~John
When did SKF buy Lincoln?
SKF acquired Lincoln Industrial in October 2010.
Followed directions and video carefully. Could not prime new lincoln grease gun 1134. Bleeder valve is a POS. It's cross threaded now so new gun is trash.
What is psi setting for pneumatic grease gun
For priming the unit, set air pressure to between 30-40 psi. For normal operation, anywhere between 80-90 psi is the recommendation.
~John
Why does the cordless Lincoln power grease dcd screen flash red and then shut down... no mention of this in manual troubleshooting
most of our newer model grease guns have a thermal protection in them that will shut the gun off if too high of an amp draw is detected. This protects the motor from burning up. In some guns a flashing red screen may also indicate loss of prime and will shut the gun down if attempting to dispense continues too long while airbound. Usually occurs at very high pressure, such as a blockage, or resistance in the lubrication point. We normally suggest cleaning passages in the head of the gun and flushing the whip hose to see if this will help.
~ John
I must have the worst luck with grease guns. I have had them for thirty years & everytime I ran out of grease & loaded another tube of grease. The fist fight starts. I do everything right but I lose prime everytime. Very frustrating! I’m on my third grease gun. I currently own a Lincoln 18 volt grease gun thinking this would be easier? Not! Still have trouble everytime? WTF? Is this just me? Or are ALL grease guns this hard? By the way? All my previous grease guns had the same fate at the end. I brought them to work & flatten them with a outrigger. There were a lot of smiles 😃 as I heard the metal & cast aluminum parts shatter. If I had as much trouble with them? I certainly didn’t want someone finding it thinking it was still good? Hence the flat grease gun.
I am sorry to hear you are having issues with grease guns. In our experience with units returned to us for evaluation, loss of prime is mostly caused by debris entering the head or a loose tube assembly allowing air to be drawn through the threads. We suggest cleaning the head of any material that could be causing the checks to stay open. There is a video outlining the process on our channel. In many cases when priming takes a while, the issue is usually a large air pocket in between the grease in the cartridge and the piston in the head. this air pocket needs to be eliminated for the gun to be primed effectively.
~ John
Yes, it’s an air pocket. I usually have to actually unscrew both vent caps fully. I don’t know why this is? It just is. I had this problem with my last grease gun as well. Hence why everytime it failed to push grease I would have to keep trying to prime? Priming often took more time to happen than the total time it took to grease the front end on my truck. After twenty years I had enough of it & crushed it at work. I had a similar problem with a pair of blue tooth speakers. I bought them as a pair. Except they never paired? I downloaded their app & tried & tried & tried. I watched TH-cam videos on pairing? Nothing worked. I contacted the manufacturer several times as they were still under warranty. Nothing worked! I brought them to work & squashed them with my work truck.
Kahan per milega yah wala pump contact aur Pata bhejo
So, you guys going to go over filling bulk or not? The directions aren’t very clear....
yes, soon... I have a video to cover the common fill methods on my list to shoot in the very near future.
The quick explanation uses a manual bulk fill pump such as our 500L or 1296. Most of our grease guns are supplied with the bulk fill nipple already attached, if it doesn't the p/n 91108 is attached to the head. It's a simple matter of connecting the bulk filler socket to the grease gun nipple and cycling the bulk pump handle until the notch in the follower rod reaches the notch in the end cap of the grease gun tube assembly. Unlock the follower rod from the follower and you are ready to use.
~ John
Here you go!
th-cam.com/video/1VcAaJfGpac/w-d-xo.html
need parts for 12volt gun
Hi John, Please contact our technical service department for assistance either at 1-844-772-1341 or by email at Lincoln.Tech.Service@SKF.com
will do
Mine still won't work 😆
Damn all grease guns! Most of the time, you can pump them till the cows come home and get no grease. (Yes, mine is a Lincoln!) On those rare occasions when they will pump, the grease just oozes out between the nozzle and the fitting. I would be ashamed of myself to make such sorry products. In over 100 years, why hasn't somebody invented something better?
Hi Mike, These guns, couplers and fittings have been around for many years. Have been tested and found to be very sound popular designs. However, to comment on a few of your points, The video should answer the first one, gun was not fully primed. In addition, the environment you are working in as well as the lubricant dispensed will effect performance of the gun itself. Cold weather causes lubricant to thicken and flow much more slowly. The lubricant, if it's thick, or very tacky will require slower dispensing rate or at least a bit more time to allow for a full prime. To the second point of oozing grease: Lubricant bypass between the coupler and fitting attachment points occur due to two main reasons: Fitting/coupler damage or contamination. We usually point to the contamination first. If any debris(dirt, fibers, dried grease, etc) gets in between the mating surfaces of the coupler and fitting, there will not be a full seal which will leak. If the fitting head is damaged such as scrapes, or corrosion, the two sealing surfaces will not fully meet causing leakage. Our suggestions when we received these inquiries is always to attempt to fully clean the fitting head and coupler of any contamination first, If that does not work, replace the fitting. Lastly, the coupler has a complete seal up to 15° angle on the fitting, any further, the coupler may disengage or leak.I hope this helps with a better understanding of these units. If you have any further questions feel free to contact our technical department for assistance.
@@lincolnindustrial
Please excuse us. Mike escaped from his Looney room somehow and got onto the computer. We won't let it happen again.
Blead the air out
@@lincolnindustrial Translation from corporate PR to English: One or twice per lifetime all the necessary stars just might happen to align such that the damn thing will work as intended and promised. The rest of the time, forget it!
@@muddjim55 That's what they all say, so don't you think I've tried that every imaginable way? It does no good! I've got a better idea: Throw the damn useless thing away! It will grease your machines just as well from the landfill as it does in your hands.