I now wish I had paid attention in high school (1950) in shop, I get alot out of your and Keith Fenner videos and a smile now and then, worked at international harvesters tractor plant and used some of these machines, excelo bore, radio arm drill and some others but was not interested at the time 1970, but I'm now enjoying your videos, keep up the good work, David from Iowa
Very good fix on that little indicator drive chain. Neat that you have an EPIC tachometer. I was given one by a friend. It was making a similar noise to yours, and also not returning to 0. A little light machine oil in the mechanism was all it needed! I have used it quite a lot! Recently tested my 1930's Sturtevant blower with it and had it in that video. Very useful tool, if only it could read in both directions! I've been really in a bind with the limited low speeds before. As you stated, using a VFD with the stepped pulley or variable pulley setup is so useful for holesaw cutting!
Mr. Pete, Great find, great price and a wonderful repair job. Wish I could find one like that! No holes on the Table either - WOW!!! Must have been used by a REAL machinist!
I have one of those Delta drill presses you talked about model 20-950. 20 inch variable speed, so far so good, it has been in service in my wood shop now for 8 years and still not a problem. But I do baby my machines and service them alot.
I bought one of the "modern" Delta variable speed drill presses (model 17-925) sometime in the early 2000s. I expect it was fairly expensive, as I was not counting my pennies at the time. It has two ranges (shiftable with a lever): 150-1100 and 500-3100 rpm. The speed mechanism hasn't given me any trouble, but when using a large drill bit and putting a lot of pressure on the bit, the table deflects downward (and angles outward) enough to put a lot of side pressure on the bit (and the spindle). I had to make a jack (using a length of acme all-thread, a large wingnut, and a length of pipe) to support the table near where the pressure is being exerted. A stud set into the base (directly under the spindle) locates the end of the pipe; the webbing on the underside of the table locates the end of the all-thread. Just put a bit of pressure upwards before you start to drill. Just a note for anyone who notices that their drill press sometimes moves the location of a hole by ten or twenty thousandths (towards the column) or somehow drills an oblong hole: check for table deflection. Put an indicator base on the column and measure the table surface or workpiece as you put some pressure on the bit. If it moves, you gotta counteract it.
This is somewhat relevant to this video, since it concerns your three spoke handle conversion. I was at an estate sale last Thursday and there was an older Delta drill press that appeared to have a homemade handle conversion that was a wheel made of round rod with three spokes that were bent to shift the wheel out from the side of the drill press head. The wheel was about the same diameter as the handle knobs would be. It was an interesting idea, I'm not sure how well you could change your hand position without the spindle retracting, but you have the same situation if you have to move your hand from one handle to another of the conventional three handle spindle actuator.
Thank you for doing this video. I have the bench top version of this drill press, and it has the same exact issue. I also took the time when I got mine to replace the wiring with better quality insulated wire. anyway I know now that I need ladder chain!
I totally agree on drill presses all of them run 10 times faster then they need. I would love a real slow speed variable model. I guess being a machinist and mechanic ill be building my own out of my best 20" old Rockwell with power feed . It's a monster to be messing with for sure it must weigh in at 600 lbs. All my machines are in wait and see how my operations turn out. Bulging discs have me reall screwed up. Thanks for the vid
That is such a magnificent drill press and it is almost Art Deco in its design. I think if I were lucky enough to have something like that it would end up in my family room just so I could look at it when I wasn't using it...the Mrs might object but...
Hi Mr Pete, I just purchased a Logan 6560H 14" model back in July, its in pretty good shape, although the variable speed belt system on mine could use a little work if one wanted to make it quieter. I am missing the recognizable cast aluminum "Logan" logo that is typically on their larger models (12" and up I think.) I hope to one day build a backyard foundry set-up so that I can cast a replacement nameplate and of course other projects. Thanks for all of the fantastic videos and inspiration!
Mr. Pete. Thank you for your great videos and instruction. You bring a great old school flavor to them all. I live in Plainfield, IL and attended Arnfest 2016, but missed Arnfest 2017. Saw your video going to Fox Valley area to by equipment. Couldn't figure if you were in Yorkville, St. Charles, Aurora, etc. Thanks again.
Fun video and informative. I am looking forward to the LOGAN Lathe video with great anticipation (kind of like a kid waiting for Santa ). I will add it to my 1400 LOGAN so my kids can figure it out when I'm gone. Thanks again!
To protect a variable speed drive like that from metal shop dinguses you could mount a solenoid to interfere with the exposed teeth on the chain sprocket. Wire it in parallel with the motor so it retracts and frees the sprocket when the switch is on and locks it in place when off. Like a steering wheel lock on a cars.
I have a TULL branded drill, supposedly an industrial machine for metal working. It has 12 speeds between 290-2330. As you say the slowest speed is still not slow enough for many jobs, in fact I rarely move it from the slow speed since it mainly gets used for hole saws and forstners. One day I will fit a variable speed motor to it, the 12 speed pulley setup should allow me to get some very high torque at low speeds.
I have a Shopsmith with a variable speed drive, very similar to the drive on your drill press, it has a variable diameter sheave, and the same warning about only changing speeds when under power. Very nice, 700-5200 RPM. Too fast for metal but still nicer than belt changes. Shopsmith also makes a intermediate belt driven speed reducer, 7:1, so 100-743 RPM. Next year a metal lathe.
Very nice machine Mr Pete. If you feel inclined you could machine some knobs for the feed to match the ones on the speed control. Just for style points.
Very interesting. I sure would like to see how you cut and splice that. Margin of error seems 5% at slow speed, maybe up to 10% at high speed. But it’s just kind of a feel thing anyway. Love it.
My Machine shop teacher put another set of step pulleys on the drill presses we had. Mounted a shaft where the motor was then inverted the motor so it went through two step pulleys to get lower rpm at the chuck end. The drill presses ended up with 12 speeds had to reverse the motor to flip it over.
Wish I had variable speed on my Mill and drill press maybe even the lathe too Such a pain changing speeds looking at some of those drills you can get the same ones here in Australia Just with different badges good vid Mr pete
The china tack may be ok. I have one and found out it won't tolerate any reflections. Perhaps it was picking up a reflection from the polished portion of the chuck. I expect the ideal condition would be a flat black cylinder with only the white strip would give a fair reading. Mine has worked well on various hit-n-miss engines where there was really not any reflective surface.
I hate step pulleys! I used the same speed (about 675 rpm) on my old mill-drill for everything for years because it was a pain to change speeds. I swapped in a treadmill motor controller last year and love it. It is a bit noisier, but it's worth it.
Harbor freight has a lathe that uses this style of speed change. Its troublesome according to a couple of reviews I've seen but it seems to work fairly well at speed changing without moving belts on stepped pulleys. My drill press never gets changed because I can't figure out what grooves to move the belts to to get particular speeds.
I really wanted to see how you spliced that ladder chain together, I have never seen that kind before and have no clue how it would be able to splice together.
Very much agree with your comments about the options concerning current drill presses. The step pulley should go for drill presses just as it is being replaced in even lower cost milling machines. A few years ago I had to purchase a drill press for a museum shop and to be frank everything I looked at was "junk." Step pulleys, horrible spindle bearing run out and poor locking mechanisms on the tables. IMO non of the units I found would be worth anything after twenty years of even moderate use.Yes, you do get what you pay for, but as far as I could determine the price jump between "low cost" machines and a reliable drill press was near to a factor of ten.
Hi Pete, I have a Clausing variable speed drill press at work with a similar mechanical speed mechanism but instead of a separate needle speed indicator , the speeds are marked on the hand wheel (Ships wheel) dial. I sure will miss having access to this shop area when I retire.
Instead of having the ladder or even roller chain way too tight I would suggest using a tensioner on the chain. A tensioner can be made with another sprocket, roller, or slide. Roller chain has available tensioners one of which is a snapidle.
Before you put a knob on the ship's wheel maybe you should let the ladder chain break in a bit. It seems a bit stiff to turn right now. Also, can you loosen the screw that holds the indicator needle and move it to read correctly? It seems to read a bit low.
i have put a treadmill motor and controller on my delta-rockwell drill press with good results.. i added a digital tach also. runs from 0 to about 1400 RPM
I wonder if a modern metal "push" belt would work for the lower speed, higher torque cvt needed for the large diameter metal cutting bits. It would probably increase the weight and complexity to the point that either selecting gears, or just going with a three phase motor with speed controller is cheaper, easier, and more reliable.
That chain, yeah, a danish toy company called "Tekno" making model cars and Ingeneers Construction sets for kids used that kind of chain for their gears !
Maybe set the speed near the middle rpm, clock it with the rpm gage and set the needle to match as close as possible in the middle? Should be close enough all the way through?
the clausing would probly handle the tourqe of 100 rpm or so the whole head turns on the stem if your not careful on those china ones (it'll push the spindle right) its only held in place with two set screws
I totally agree with the drill press speeds. They have these ridiculous speeds of 3000 rpm but don't go below 500rpm. I have never needed to drill anything at 3000 rpm.
You use it for flow drilling. th-cam.com/video/NhkWINPRK3A/w-d-xo.html But a hobby machine might not have the power needed because it requires both speed and torque applied
Your dead on about the speeds on pedestal drills. My unit at home is step pulley but slowest I can go is 450. It has a 32 mm capacity but forget it. Wayyy to fast. I always resort to going to dads to use his 1908 'The Rockford' leather belt drive drill with the split pulley at the top. Such an old drill but with automatic feed and anything over 1 inch drill you can slow it down to about 40 rpm. This drill used to run on steam on an overhead shaft at Hugh Lennon agricultural fabricators where he did his apprenticeship. Still going strong. If my chinesium unit lasts a quarter of that life I think I'm doing well .haha
I have one of these random (guess the speed) Chinese tachometers but never knew fluorescent light would affect the reading. Thanks for the alert, now I'll try the little cheapie with no lights, incandescent, or outside.
Eric and Brain, I'm certain you're correct. Now I'm wondering if the tach will give accurate reading if I shield (shade) it and the target from direct fluorescent flickering? I'll try that and see if it makes a difference.
Hey Mon Ami I have a question for you........ I have a broken bolt in a sump / crankcase cover.... My buddy has some reverse drill bits. We did the sneak up method on it from small to larger. No go on that. I seen a video that one guy did a 1/8 hole then put a 3/16 bit in and it worked like charm.. So my question is ???????? Did I do it wrong or did he do it right ?? I am not familiar with the left handed bits ....... Thanks for a reply Mon Ami ~!~!
A 3-phase ac motor. You will note that the 3ph motor may be smaller than a single phase of the same horsepower because the 3ph motor is more efficient.
You can get a speed controller for a single phase AC motor as well. Check the current draw or HP rating of the motor and get a speed controller that can control that size motor. Note that single phase high power speed controllers get spendy
The accuracy of the speed control will change as the drive belt wears down so this system was and will always only be in the ballpark but never accurate
Clausing makes a 20" drill press with the variable speed drive. It's still made in the US, but runs around $4,000 dollars. www.clausing-industrial.com/detail.asp?p=D&l=CDP&m=CDP20
Yep, this is what you need in a commercial job shop. Not cheap, but necessary when time is money. Those drilling safety shields are about as useless as tits on a bull..I've never seen one last over a week before the chips ripped it apart. A drill press does not tolerate careless operation...even a small one can tear you a new one. A drill press, especially like the big Clausing ,demands that the work be securely held because you ain't slowing that spindle down once it grabs the work.
Think you threw that electronic tach away to quick. Variable pulleys are notorious for wandering slightly in an RPM range and going faster and slower for short periods. Watch the jerkiness of the Starrett RPM guage it goes faster and slower as the belt flexes between the pulleys. Because you were only measuring for a couple seconds with the electronic tach it was catching different periods when the shaft was going faster or slower. The short period you measured compounded the error and you were getting readings all over the place.
Aw, that's a boring way to indicate "speed" it only shows the cvt setting, rather than the actual speed. Something like an oil damped needle with a magnet being dragged by a rotating aluminium or copper might have worked. Perhaps just an old car speedometer with a custom faceplate would work?
Landrew0 I guess. A handwheel with a knob and of the same size and placing as the indicator, with the speeds etched into it would be my first thought. When possible I prefer indicators separate from the bit used to input the setting to indicate the actual state rather than the commanded state.
I now wish I had paid attention in high school (1950) in shop, I get alot out of your and Keith Fenner videos and a smile now and then, worked at international harvesters tractor plant and used some of these machines, excelo bore, radio arm drill and some others but was not interested at the time 1970, but I'm now enjoying your videos, keep up the good work, David from Iowa
I love your videos. Especially the tool making ones, and - much like this one - fixing old machines that work well
Well done and thanks for sharing
Very good fix on that little indicator drive chain.
Neat that you have an EPIC tachometer. I was given one by a friend. It was making a similar noise to yours, and also not returning to 0. A little light machine oil in the mechanism was all it needed! I have used it quite a lot! Recently tested my 1930's Sturtevant blower with it and had it in that video. Very useful tool, if only it could read in both directions!
I've been really in a bind with the limited low speeds before. As you stated, using a VFD with the stepped pulley or variable pulley setup is so useful for holesaw cutting!
Mr. Pete,
Great find, great price and a wonderful repair job. Wish I could find one like that! No holes on the Table either - WOW!!! Must have been used by a REAL machinist!
I have one of those Delta drill presses you talked about model 20-950. 20 inch variable speed, so far so good, it has been in service in my wood shop now for 8 years and still not a problem. But I do baby my machines and service them alot.
👍
Looking forward to the Logan Lathe series. I bought mine because of your videos!
I bought one of the "modern" Delta variable speed drill presses (model 17-925) sometime in the early 2000s. I expect it was fairly expensive, as I was not counting my pennies at the time. It has two ranges (shiftable with a lever): 150-1100 and 500-3100 rpm. The speed mechanism hasn't given me any trouble, but when using a large drill bit and putting a lot of pressure on the bit, the table deflects downward (and angles outward) enough to put a lot of side pressure on the bit (and the spindle). I had to make a jack (using a length of acme all-thread, a large wingnut, and a length of pipe) to support the table near where the pressure is being exerted. A stud set into the base (directly under the spindle) locates the end of the pipe; the webbing on the underside of the table locates the end of the all-thread. Just put a bit of pressure upwards before you start to drill.
Just a note for anyone who notices that their drill press sometimes moves the location of a hole by ten or twenty thousandths (towards the column) or somehow drills an oblong hole: check for table deflection. Put an indicator base on the column and measure the table surface or workpiece as you put some pressure on the bit. If it moves, you gotta counteract it.
This is somewhat relevant to this video, since it concerns your three spoke handle conversion. I was at an estate sale last Thursday and there was an older Delta drill press that appeared to have a homemade handle conversion that was a wheel made of round rod with three spokes that were bent to shift the wheel out from the side of the drill press head. The wheel was about the same diameter as the handle knobs would be. It was an interesting idea, I'm not sure how well you could change your hand position without the spindle retracting, but you have the same situation if you have to move your hand from one handle to another of the conventional three handle spindle actuator.
sounds like we'll be watching a hand crank video for the drill press . Keep up the good work Thanks Lyle
Thank you for doing this video. I have the bench top version of this drill press, and it has the same exact issue. I also took the time when I got mine to replace the wiring with better quality insulated wire. anyway I know now that I need ladder chain!
Nice job getting it all fixed up.
That seems to be an awesome find and worth the money.
I totally agree on drill presses all of them run 10 times faster then they need. I would love a real slow speed variable model. I guess being a machinist and mechanic ill be building my own out of my best 20" old Rockwell with power feed . It's a monster to be messing with for sure it must weigh in at 600 lbs. All my machines are in wait and see how my operations turn out. Bulging discs have me reall screwed up. Thanks for the vid
That is such a magnificent drill press and it is almost Art Deco in its design. I think if I were lucky enough to have something like that it would end up in my family room just so I could look at it when I wasn't using it...the Mrs might object but...
Make sure you make a video of that...
Hi Mr Pete, I just purchased a Logan 6560H 14" model back in July, its in pretty good shape, although the variable speed belt system on mine could use a little work if one wanted to make it quieter. I am missing the recognizable cast aluminum "Logan" logo that is typically on their larger models (12" and up I think.) I hope to one day build a backyard foundry set-up so that I can cast a replacement nameplate and of course other projects. Thanks for all of the fantastic videos and inspiration!
Glad you got it going to your satisfaction, Mr Pete!
Mr. Pete. Thank you for your great videos and instruction. You bring a great old school flavor to them all. I live in Plainfield, IL and attended Arnfest 2016, but missed Arnfest 2017. Saw your video going to Fox Valley area to by equipment. Couldn't figure if you were in Yorkville, St. Charles, Aurora, etc. Thanks again.
Thanks for sharing the repair. Looks like we are gonna get a video on making a crank handle for the Delta. :- ) regards from the UK
Fun video and informative. I am looking forward to the LOGAN Lathe video with great anticipation (kind of like a kid waiting for Santa ). I will add it to my 1400 LOGAN so my kids can figure it out when I'm gone. Thanks again!
Nice that chain came out great.
To protect a variable speed drive like that from metal shop dinguses you could mount a solenoid to interfere with the exposed teeth on the chain sprocket. Wire it in parallel with the motor so it retracts and frees the sprocket when the switch is on and locks it in place when off. Like a steering wheel lock on a cars.
I have a TULL branded drill, supposedly an industrial machine for metal working. It has 12 speeds between 290-2330. As you say the slowest speed is still not slow enough for many jobs, in fact I rarely move it from the slow speed since it mainly gets used for hole saws and forstners. One day I will fit a variable speed motor to it, the 12 speed pulley setup should allow me to get some very high torque at low speeds.
I have a Shopsmith with a variable speed drive, very similar to the drive on your drill press, it has a variable diameter sheave, and the same warning about only changing speeds when under power. Very nice, 700-5200 RPM. Too fast for metal but still nicer than belt changes. Shopsmith also makes a intermediate belt driven speed reducer, 7:1, so 100-743 RPM. Next year a metal lathe.
Nicely done sir.
That style of chain remains popular somewhat because it's how some conveyor belts are made.
Very nice machine Mr Pete. If you feel inclined you could machine some knobs for the feed to match the ones on the speed control. Just for style points.
Very interesting. I sure would like to see how you cut and splice that. Margin of error seems 5% at slow speed, maybe up to 10% at high speed. But it’s just kind of a feel thing anyway. Love it.
My Machine shop teacher put another set of step pulleys on the drill presses we had. Mounted a shaft where the motor was then inverted the motor so it went through two step pulleys to get lower rpm at the chuck end. The drill presses ended up with 12 speeds had to reverse the motor to flip it over.
Very nice fix! You have made this into a very nice machine. Thanks as always, Mr. Pete! :-)
Love The Oliver shirt !!
+kw900lkevin I like a 66
Wish I had variable speed on my Mill and drill press maybe even the lathe too
Such a pain changing speeds looking at some of those drills you can get the same ones here in Australia
Just with different badges good vid Mr pete
The china tack may be ok. I have one and found out it won't tolerate any reflections. Perhaps it was picking up a reflection from the polished portion of the chuck. I expect the ideal condition would be a flat black cylinder with only the white strip would give a fair reading. Mine has worked well on various hit-n-miss engines where there was really not any reflective surface.
I hate step pulleys! I used the same speed (about 675 rpm) on my old mill-drill for everything for years because it was a pain to change speeds. I swapped in a treadmill motor controller last year and love it. It is a bit noisier, but it's worth it.
Harbor freight has a lathe that uses this style of speed change. Its troublesome according to a couple of reviews I've seen but it seems to work fairly well at speed changing without moving belts on stepped pulleys. My drill press never gets changed because I can't figure out what grooves to move the belts to to get particular speeds.
I really wanted to see how you spliced that ladder chain together, I have never seen that kind before and have no clue how it would be able to splice together.
John Bond I did that all the time with the erector set. You just use needlenose pliers to open the links and close then again.
Another great effort. Ladder chain was used in Photo processing equipment.
Thanks,
nice job Mr Pete !!
Very much agree with your comments about the options concerning current drill presses. The step pulley should go for drill presses just as it is being replaced in even lower cost milling machines. A few years ago I had to purchase a drill press for a museum shop and to be frank everything I looked at was "junk." Step pulleys, horrible spindle bearing run out and poor locking mechanisms on the tables. IMO non of the units I found would be worth anything after twenty years of even moderate use.Yes, you do get what you pay for, but as far as I could determine the price jump between "low cost" machines and a reliable drill press was near to a factor of ten.
You could get a mini mill at the 4-600 dollar range. they work very well als drill presses and are all electronically speed controlled
Ladder chain is also used in the drive mechanism of player pianos.
Bingo ! thats where I saw those I have a player piano
Hi Pete, I have a Clausing variable speed drill press at work with a similar mechanical speed mechanism but instead of a separate needle speed indicator , the speeds are marked on the hand wheel (Ships wheel) dial. I sure will miss having access to this shop area when I retire.
I had a clausing at the school--I still miss it
Instead of having the ladder or even roller chain way too tight I would suggest using a tensioner on the chain. A tensioner can be made with another sprocket, roller, or slide. Roller chain has available tensioners one of which is a snapidle.
Good job, thanks for sharing.
Thank you, great info!
Tighter than a g-string....on a steel guitar 😀
I just bought a used Deumo on eBay for like $60 or so, about three months back. It's used by in pretty good shape. So they are available.
Before you put a knob on the ship's wheel maybe you should let the ladder chain break in a bit. It seems a bit stiff to turn right now. Also, can you loosen the screw that holds the indicator needle and move it to read correctly? It seems to read a bit low.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Nice job
what a great video pete....thank u
Thank you very much
i have put a treadmill motor and controller on my delta-rockwell drill press with good results.. i added a digital tach also. runs from 0 to about 1400 RPM
I made the same mods to my old mill-drill. It works great down to about 30 rpm, when the controller starts to struggle with the load.
I wonder if a modern metal "push" belt would work for the lower speed, higher torque cvt needed for the large diameter metal cutting bits. It would probably increase the weight and complexity to the point that either selecting gears, or just going with a three phase motor with speed controller is cheaper, easier, and more reliable.
That chain, yeah, a danish toy company called "Tekno" making model cars and Ingeneers Construction sets for kids used that kind of chain for their gears !
The RPM meter would of just been a fancy "Modern Feature" For manual twiddling. Make you feel you were in Control.
I wonder if you put larger pulleys on to give a greater speed range, if the motor would have enough torque...
Don't stop making videos, please.
Agree, drill presses do run too fast. I run a FOBCO. Made in England. Very well made however I wish it ran slower.
I have a Powermatic 1150 variable speed with a variable frequency drive and it will turn from about 3 rpm to 6000 very nice I couldent ask for more.
To me the best speed indicators are the Swiss made Hasler ones.
Maybe set the speed near the middle rpm, clock it with the rpm gage and set the needle to match as close as possible in the middle? Should be close enough all the way through?
the clausing would probly handle the tourqe of 100 rpm or so the whole head turns on the stem if your not careful on those china ones (it'll push the spindle right) its only held in place with two set screws
I knew you would have that working in short order. Chris
Thanks for sharing sir....
I totally agree with the drill press speeds. They have these ridiculous speeds of 3000 rpm but don't go below 500rpm. I have never needed to drill anything at 3000 rpm.
It helps keep the drill mfgs in business
You use it for flow drilling. th-cam.com/video/NhkWINPRK3A/w-d-xo.html But a hobby machine might not have the power needed because it requires both speed and torque applied
Your dead on about the speeds on pedestal drills. My unit at home is step pulley but slowest I can go is 450. It has a 32 mm capacity but forget it. Wayyy to fast. I always resort to going to dads to use his 1908 'The Rockford' leather belt drive drill with the split pulley at the top. Such an old drill but with automatic feed and anything over 1 inch drill you can slow it down to about 40 rpm. This drill used to run on steam on an overhead shaft at Hugh Lennon agricultural fabricators where he did his apprenticeship. Still going strong. If my chinesium unit lasts a quarter of that life I think I'm doing well .haha
Slow speed is why I am putting a 3 phase motor and VFD on my lathe.
How do you know if your drillpress motor can be converted to variable speed?
I see your modification coming up. And I bet you it looks just like a crank for the adjustable speed handle.
I’m in the same boat, how do you splice that kind of chain?
On that drill press just put a one HP variable speed motor - with a control box and you'll have all the speeds and torque you'll ever need.
The flicker of the fluorescent lights mess up those optical tachometers. Try it outside or under an incandescent light.
Eric Van Andel
I think it mainly went in the trash because it was Chinese.
Some prejudice is OK.
I have one of these random (guess the speed) Chinese tachometers but never knew fluorescent light would affect the reading. Thanks for the alert, now I'll try the little cheapie with no lights, incandescent, or outside.
Ellie Price Point the tacho at a fluorescent tube and check that it is working, Different readings on 50 or 60 Hz though.
Eric and Brain, I'm certain you're correct. Now I'm wondering if the tach will give accurate reading if I shield (shade) it and the target from direct fluorescent flickering? I'll try that and see if it makes a difference.
Ellie Price Just to add to my earlier reply - at 50Hz an old style fluory will give 6000 rpm±2 and at 60Hz will give 7200rpm±2.
Hey Mon Ami I have a question for you........ I have a broken bolt in a sump / crankcase cover.... My buddy has some reverse drill bits. We did the sneak up method on it from small to larger. No go on that. I seen a video that one guy did a 1/8 hole then put a 3/16 bit in and it worked like charm.. So my question is ????????
Did I do it wrong or did he do it right ?? I am not familiar with the left handed bits .......
Thanks for a reply Mon Ami ~!~!
Since the LD drill did not work---try an EZ out.
Could not remember the name Ladder chain. Thanks for the reminder.
I just like this channel
Nice repair and rewiring. Did you get voice recognized at Grizzly again? :)
no--never talked to anyone this time
What kind of ac motor can I use the voltage control you have on other drill press. I have an old Rockwell I would like to add that mod to
A 3-phase ac motor. You will note that the 3ph motor may be smaller than a single phase of the same horsepower because the 3ph motor is more efficient.
You can get a speed controller for a single phase AC motor as well. Check the current draw or HP rating of the motor and get a speed controller that can control that size motor. Note that single phase high power speed controllers get spendy
and pianola drive chain.
I have one just like that. does anyone know what kind of belt that takes and wher to get it?
Get in touch with MR Tool Repair about your German tach. He might be able to do something for you. Thank you for your work.
The accuracy of the speed control will change as the drive belt wears down so this system was and will always only be in the ballpark but never accurate
I bought a lathe and mill both from Grizzly.
I can't find Charles Slater on ebay and ideals>
Keep watch for a Stewart Warner tackometer / rubber V tip 0 to pretty sure 5,000 rpm
I don't know the age but I have had it atleast 40+ years......
Mr. Pete has one of those, he's got a video or two on checking RPMs.
It's not such a bad thing if the indicator runs slower than actual RPM. Under load, it runs slower anyway.
Clausing makes a 20" drill press with the variable speed drive. It's still made in the US, but runs around $4,000 dollars.
www.clausing-industrial.com/detail.asp?p=D&l=CDP&m=CDP20
Yep, this is what you need in a commercial job shop. Not cheap, but necessary when time is money. Those drilling safety shields are about as useless as tits on a bull..I've never seen one last over a week before the chips ripped it apart. A drill press does not tolerate careless operation...even a small one can tear you a new one. A drill press, especially like the big Clausing ,demands that the work be securely held because you ain't slowing that spindle down once it grabs the work.
Think you threw that electronic tach away to quick. Variable pulleys are notorious for wandering slightly in an RPM range and going faster and slower for short periods. Watch the jerkiness of the Starrett RPM guage it goes faster and slower as the belt flexes between the pulleys. Because you were only measuring for a couple seconds with the electronic tach it was catching different periods when the shaft was going faster or slower. The short period you measured compounded the error and you were getting readings all over the place.
good point
5:41 - Oh no! Camera is the wrong way! --> th-cam.com/video/Bt9zSfinwFA/w-d-xo.html
Haaaa, that was great, I know the frustration...
Aw, that's a boring way to indicate "speed" it only shows the cvt setting, rather than the actual speed. Something like an oil damped needle with a magnet being dragged by a rotating aluminium or copper might have worked. Perhaps just an old car speedometer with a custom faceplate would work?
Robert Szasz
But aren't you impressed by the elegant simplicity of the indicator, which also happens to work surprisingly well?
Landrew0 I guess. A handwheel with a knob and of the same size and placing as the indicator, with the speeds etched into it would be my first thought.
When possible I prefer indicators separate from the bit used to input the setting to indicate the actual state rather than the commanded state.
Robert Szasz
Insofar as what you need for accurate speed control in a drill-press, this far exceeds all requirements. And it's elegantly simply too.
Corruption in your trash can? You get politician mail too?