Thanks, This worked out great, Daves design but was a fun collaboration with a great outcome. Agree Vevor needs a better mount design for thsi tensioner pulley considering the pressure points put on those back to back bearings the way its mounted. Cheers.
Nice fix, i would have liked to see a no chuck and disengaged banjo test. You would only hear the motor, belts and spindle. I'm sure it was much smoother. Maybe next vid. Top bloke that fella that helped you 👍👌🇦🇺
This is one of many ways to tackle the pulley mount, I like the design and keeping the original pulley as it was. I probably should have pulled the banjo and ran it freely...hmmm. I do plan on taking another look after a few projects to make sure the grease is holding up and things are still running well. Maybe I will perform those tests at that time. Dave has become a really good friend over the past few years. He is like having a buddy/mentor in the shop working with me.
It’s great that Dave was able to get the new pulley made. He does great work. Are the bearings a good quality such as Timken, NTN, NSK etc? I know that a good quality bearing can be quite expensive, but they do tend to last a lot longer than the lower end affordable bearings with an ABEC 1 rating. Even though this is just a belt pulley I would have still used ABEC 7 rated bearings. But that’s me.
Yeah, Dave really helped me out. This was a fun collaboration. I am not sure the wuality of the needle bearing that were sent as Dave supplied those but this was all experimental. They may be cheap bearings and if I need to replace them I will look for Timkin or other top quality brands. Thanks and cheers my friend.
Yes he did, He came up wiht the design and did most of the work, I finished a few operations and so far this is a pretty solid change to mount the tensioner pulley. Dave has become a pretty good friend of mine over the past couple years.
It really does sound a lot better, I will review the pulley again soon and make sure things are running as intended. Another commentor mentioned to run it without the banjo and gears to listen to it. I will do that too to check how its running. Cheers.
I actually found the belts. I am working on a video about the spare parts I have purchased, made, acquired or otherwise for this mini lathe. What you are looking for can be found on ebay, Search for the listing "2PCS NEW 4 Ribs Drive Belt Circumference 15'' Wide 3/8'' For Mini Lathe 210V" The seller as of now I bought them from was "chistmascarol" I got them and have them on hand and for my lathe they are a great replacement to have in stock. Good luck. feel free to email me if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching.
It sure has. I am sure this will need revisited but all machines need maintenance and improvements. I am very happy to have my lathe back in operation. I have a lot of projects coming up. Look for a channel update video coming out this week.
Won't be long, They already stole my likeliness (Screen shot of me from one of my videos) and put it in a blog. Why not steal your design and my video showcasing it too. lol
Did you lock your axis Y and z need to be lock look like it was chattering and use a fly cutter next time one cut per pass looking great now/ you should locktite that bushing into the pully bore ,i have a feeling it will slip and wear out some .
I did the back bushing as a drop in so he could easily change the needle bearings if needed. Otherwise, there is no way to change them both bearings are pressed in with some 50lbs. The force on it from the lock nut and motor tension pull will keep it from rotating.
I did lock the Z axis but I need to be better about remembering to lock the X and Y axis when using the mill for different operations. Thanks for the reminder, In this case I thought about using a fly cutter but I wasn't going for looks so much as getting the lathe functional and working again.
@@deezworkshop I like to think of the X and Y as 2 different levels. Every time my left hand turn the Y axis handle, my right hand is doing the locks down low and to the right. And same with the right hand on the X axis handle, up higher and left hand on the locks. My table X and Y are always locked, Z too, except for the axis I'm moving. Stoked you got the lathe running again.👍👌🇦🇺
@@adhawk5632 I like these kinds of tips to help remember the little things that make a big difference. Safety glasses was one I took some advice from others on. I keep them on the top of the Mill around the drawbar, I dont keep tooling in the mill so I have to use the draw bar everytime I use the mill before an operation and as a result the safety glasses have to be touched.
Here is the spec sheet, Keep in mind these are the dimensions of the original pulley and mount block setup. This is not the design of the new setup. Also Credit to Dave @TheMiniMachineShop This is his drawing but has given me permission to share it. I would imagine your dimensions would be slightly off plus or minum 10-20 thou but using the video you should be able to take your measurements and adapt to build the same designs for your pulley. Let me know if you have any questions, Feel free to email me if you want any other details. My email is on my about page. drive.google.com/file/d/12-M0Fsn95H-Oi9b8zRiGKZD1jDb-feO0/view?usp=sharing
Never be afraid to improve your equipment. Just because it was built a certain way doesn't mean it was the best way. 👍🏻
That’s the way it should have been built at the factory. Nice work.
Thanks, This worked out great, Daves design but was a fun collaboration with a great outcome. Agree Vevor needs a better mount design for thsi tensioner pulley considering the pressure points put on those back to back bearings the way its mounted. Cheers.
A nice fix! I see you are enjoying the power feed. I would suggest that you cap the thrust bearing as it might seize up when swarf enters it.
That's a great suggestion. I will see how I can protect it. You are right, if swarf gets in that thrust bearing it will no doubt wear it out.
Nice fix, i would have liked to see a no chuck and disengaged banjo test. You would only hear the motor, belts and spindle. I'm sure it was much smoother. Maybe next vid. Top bloke that fella that helped you 👍👌🇦🇺
This is one of many ways to tackle the pulley mount, I like the design and keeping the original pulley as it was. I probably should have pulled the banjo and ran it freely...hmmm. I do plan on taking another look after a few projects to make sure the grease is holding up and things are still running well. Maybe I will perform those tests at that time. Dave has become a really good friend over the past few years. He is like having a buddy/mentor in the shop working with me.
It’s great that Dave was able to get the new pulley made. He does great work. Are the bearings a good quality such as Timken, NTN, NSK etc? I know that a good quality bearing can be quite expensive, but they do tend to last a lot longer than the lower end affordable bearings with an ABEC 1 rating. Even though this is just a belt pulley I would have still used ABEC 7 rated bearings. But that’s me.
Yeah, Dave really helped me out. This was a fun collaboration. I am not sure the wuality of the needle bearing that were sent as Dave supplied those but this was all experimental. They may be cheap bearings and if I need to replace them I will look for Timkin or other top quality brands. Thanks and cheers my friend.
Mr David got you fixed up , you have a better lathe now
Yes he did, He came up wiht the design and did most of the work, I finished a few operations and so far this is a pretty solid change to mount the tensioner pulley. Dave has become a pretty good friend of mine over the past couple years.
Always good to pimp the lathe a bit. And it seems to work just fine.
So far its running great. Thanks. I didnt realize how much I missed running the lathe until it was down for a month. This design is much more solid.
Nice one deez, lathe sounds a lot smoother and quieter ( apart from the change gears which are all the same on these types of lathe) .😊
It really does sound a lot better, I will review the pulley again soon and make sure things are running as intended. Another commentor mentioned to run it without the banjo and gears to listen to it. I will do that too to check how its running. Cheers.
DEES, Have you been able to find replacement belts? If so please let me what belt it is and where to purchase the poly v belts from.
I actually found the belts. I am working on a video about the spare parts I have purchased, made, acquired or otherwise for this mini lathe. What you are looking for can be found on ebay, Search for the listing "2PCS NEW 4 Ribs Drive Belt Circumference 15'' Wide 3/8'' For Mini Lathe 210V" The seller as of now I bought them from was "chistmascarol" I got them and have them on hand and for my lathe they are a great replacement to have in stock. Good luck. feel free to email me if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching.
@@deezworkshop Thanks for the replay!!!
DEEZ, so happy for you my friend. It has been a long time coming in getting your lathe "correct" ....... now what kinda projects can you lead us thru?
It sure has. I am sure this will need revisited but all machines need maintenance and improvements. I am very happy to have my lathe back in operation. I have a lot of projects coming up. Look for a channel update video coming out this week.
Hey Deez, let's see how long it takes for Vevor to copy the design as I've seen many TH-cam videos of people with the same pulley bearing issue.
Won't be long, They already stole my likeliness (Screen shot of me from one of my videos) and put it in a blog. Why not steal your design and my video showcasing it too. lol
Did you lock your axis Y and z need to be lock look like it was chattering and use a fly cutter next time one cut per pass looking great now/ you should locktite that bushing into the pully bore ,i have a feeling it will slip and wear out some .
I did the back bushing as a drop in so he could easily change the needle bearings if needed. Otherwise, there is no way to change them both bearings are pressed in with some 50lbs. The force on it from the lock nut and motor tension pull will keep it from rotating.
I did lock the Z axis but I need to be better about remembering to lock the X and Y axis when using the mill for different operations. Thanks for the reminder, In this case I thought about using a fly cutter but I wasn't going for looks so much as getting the lathe functional and working again.
@@deezworkshop I like to think of the X and Y as 2 different levels. Every time my left hand turn the Y axis handle, my right hand is doing the locks down low and to the right. And same with the right hand on the X axis handle, up higher and left hand on the locks. My table X and Y are always locked, Z too, except for the axis I'm moving. Stoked you got the lathe running again.👍👌🇦🇺
@@adhawk5632 I like these kinds of tips to help remember the little things that make a big difference. Safety glasses was one I took some advice from others on. I keep them on the top of the Mill around the drawbar, I dont keep tooling in the mill so I have to use the draw bar everytime I use the mill before an operation and as a result the safety glasses have to be touched.
I am having the same issues with my MX-750. I would love to get a copy of your drawings to try this fix.
Here is the spec sheet, Keep in mind these are the dimensions of the original pulley and mount block setup. This is not the design of the new setup. Also Credit to Dave @TheMiniMachineShop This is his drawing but has given me permission to share it. I would imagine your dimensions would be slightly off plus or minum 10-20 thou but using the video you should be able to take your measurements and adapt to build the same designs for your pulley. Let me know if you have any questions, Feel free to email me if you want any other details. My email is on my about page.
drive.google.com/file/d/12-M0Fsn95H-Oi9b8zRiGKZD1jDb-feO0/view?usp=sharing