This was a great project to start seriously thinking about dimensions and following a drawing. I didn't do the best with this project and learned a lot, every project pushes me to learn a bit more and challenge myself. It was a really fun project to build from scratch. I will tackle this one again.
Small mills are just not quite rigid enough for a face mill. That is why you will notice you get the best finish when the full diameter is engaged. Rough with it, then finish with a fly cutter.
I didnt realize this, That makes sense, I do get excellent finishes from the fly cutter but this face mill not so much...it is great to rough out material though. Thanks for the info.
Hey Deez, a couple of suggestions for you to try. When I first started this hobby machinist thing about 5 years ago, I found a TH-cam channel, "Bondihacks" who had a series of videos for us new guys. I watched every video she ever posted. In several of those videos she said small drills need high rpm's and frequent chip clearing. I took her statement to heart and have not broken a quality drill since. I don't know how fast your quill was turning when you were drilling those holes but it appeared to me to be only a few hundred and you weren't clearing the chips much. I think you need to crank that sucker up. The small flutes in small drills clog up really quickly, if not cleared it locks up the drill and presto you now have a broken drill. If you haven't watch Quinn's video's on using small machines I highly recommend you take a break and watch her beginner series. She is currently making a steam locomotive from scratch and it's mind boggling. Keep on keeping on. You'll get there.
More good advice, I didn't realize this about those spiral flute taps. So instead of simply breaking the chips I should back them out completely to clear the chips as needed.? i have 4 or 5 YG-1 Spiral flute taps now and have no complaints about them. Working to buy new taps as my projects require to replace those HF pittsburg taps.
Hi Deez. You need to get Aluminium cuting tips for brass I use them a lot of the time and a speed of 300 rpm and a slow feed speed work 100% and the finish is good from Brian w.germany
I have one or 2 aluminum cutting tips for lathe tooling. I am going to give them a shot on some brass rod at 300 rpm to see if I can get better finishes. Thanks for this info. Thanks for watching as well.
@ I’m sure you are aware there are many types of taps depending on the hole your taping. For holes that don’t go all the way through the material it’s best to use those spiral taps like you just bought. They pull the chips out of the hole as you tap it. Normal taps are best for holes that go straight though the material as they push the chips down into the hole. And then of course there are starting, normal, and bottoming taps. Lots of options which is why a standard tap and die set, even if made my Harbor Freight is only a basic starting point for tapping holes.
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I see you are getting good practice working to dimensions.
This was a great project to start seriously thinking about dimensions and following a drawing. I didn't do the best with this project and learned a lot, every project pushes me to learn a bit more and challenge myself. It was a really fun project to build from scratch. I will tackle this one again.
Small mills are just not quite rigid enough for a face mill. That is why you will notice you get the best finish when the full diameter is engaged. Rough with it, then finish with a fly cutter.
I didnt realize this, That makes sense, I do get excellent finishes from the fly cutter but this face mill not so much...it is great to rough out material though. Thanks for the info.
Hey Deez, a couple of suggestions for you to try. When I first started this hobby machinist thing about 5 years ago, I found a TH-cam channel, "Bondihacks" who had a series of videos for us new guys. I watched every video she ever posted. In several of those videos she said small drills need high rpm's and frequent chip clearing. I took her statement to heart and have not broken a quality drill since. I don't know how fast your quill was turning when you were drilling those holes but it appeared to me to be only a few hundred and you weren't clearing the chips much. I think you need to crank that sucker up. The small flutes in small drills clog up really quickly, if not cleared it locks up the drill and presto you now have a broken drill. If you haven't watch Quinn's video's on using small machines I highly recommend you take a break and watch her beginner series. She is currently making a steam locomotive from scratch and it's mind boggling. Keep on keeping on. You'll get there.
I am very pleased with YG1. One tip though, back a spiral flute tap completely out, don't break the chip, they are more likely to bind.
More good advice, I didn't realize this about those spiral flute taps. So instead of simply breaking the chips I should back them out completely to clear the chips as needed.? i have 4 or 5 YG-1 Spiral flute taps now and have no complaints about them. Working to buy new taps as my projects require to replace those HF pittsburg taps.
Hi Deez. You need to get Aluminium cuting tips for brass I use them a lot of the time and a speed of 300 rpm and a slow feed speed work 100% and the finish is good from Brian w.germany
I have one or 2 aluminum cutting tips for lathe tooling. I am going to give them a shot on some brass rod at 300 rpm to see if I can get better finishes. Thanks for this info. Thanks for watching as well.
Can't blame Harbor Freight for that broken drill bit huh? 😉
Nope. My fault any time I use them. Plus I still make mistakes. But the biggest one is continuing to use those taps. lol
@ I’m sure you are aware there are many types of taps depending on the hole your taping. For holes that don’t go all the way through the material it’s best to use those spiral taps like you just bought. They pull the chips out of the hole as you tap it. Normal taps are best for holes that go straight though the material as they push the chips down into the hole. And then of course there are starting, normal, and bottoming taps. Lots of options which is why a standard tap and die set, even if made my Harbor Freight is only a basic starting point for tapping holes.