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This was a great project to start seriously thinking about dimensions and following a drawing. I didn't do the best with this project and learned a lot, every project pushes me to learn a bit more and challenge myself. It was a really fun project to build from scratch. I will tackle this one again.

Cool, This gentleman had about 5-6 of these homemade long toolboxes. I didn't realize that Plumbers made them for their tooling. Makes sense. I could see them being useful for longer carpentry tools as well, Like Squares and levels etc. Thanks for watching.

I have one or 2 aluminum cutting tips for lathe tooling. I am going to give them a shot on some brass rod at 300 rpm to see if I can get better finishes. Thanks for this info. Thanks for watching as well.

Nope. My fault any time I use them. Plus I still make mistakes. But the biggest one is continuing to use those taps. lol

@ I’m sure you are aware there are many types of taps depending on the hole your taping. For holes that don’t go all the way through the material it’s best to use those spiral taps like you just bought. They pull the chips out of the hole as you tap it. Normal taps are best for holes that go straight though the material as they push the chips down into the hole. And then of course there are starting, normal, and bottoming taps. Lots of options which is why a standard tap and die set, even if made my Harbor Freight is only a basic starting point for tapping holes.

Interesting. Thanks for the info. I still hadn’t figured out what they were for.

You know, that is a good question, This is my first time tackling a project build like this completely from scratch. I was really wrapping my head around how to approach and complete all the parts. I did use the dro a bit but not like I could or should have. You are absolutely right, I need to use these opportunities to use this DRO. Afterall its a big bonus to have it to begin with. Appreciare the reminder on that. Thanks

@@deezworkshop Also, if you have a height gauge for your surface plate you could use it to make your layout lines much quicker and more accurately than using a rule. Since this is your first project from scratch having the layout lines as a double check with the DRO might be a good idea.

I plan to remake this project using what I have learned, I do have a height gauge and surface plate, I was going to use it for layout and now that you brought it up the DRO more to bring my skills up with using it. the engine looks great but im not completely happy with it. But the process was fun and I learned a lot. i think I will use dykem the next time around as well to keep my fingers from getting so blue. :-)

I didnt realize this, That makes sense, I do get excellent finishes from the fly cutter but this face mill not so much...it is great to rough out material though. Thanks for the info.

More good advice, I didn't realize this about those spiral flute taps. So instead of simply breaking the chips I should back them out completely to clear the chips as needed.? i have 4 or 5 YG-1 Spiral flute taps now and have no complaints about them. Working to buy new taps as my projects require to replace those HF pittsburg taps.

Thanks, It was fun to save some of this gentlemans tools and find some treasures.

That is a possibility, I believe Starret has a line of products being manufactured in China, That doesnt mean they are junk but it introduces the possibility in loss of quality or control somewhere in this change. I think they still make a line of products in the US as well but I just dont know. I have heard great things about the Quality of Mitutoyo measurement tooling

I have thought about rebuying again but making sure the store is Amazon but I am giving myself a little time to think about but more in it. I don’t mind spending the money for them to know 100% they are genuine. I am sure many resellers on Amazon sell a legit product but too many scammers out there too. Frustrating for consumers.

@@deezworkshopFor sure! The calipers are nice, no question about it, but perhaps the money is better spent on a micrometer instead. Or both 😂 And yes, counterfeits are so super annoying and it’s sad to see that Amazon has gone the way eBay went decades ago.

@@KayRoepke Oh I would love to get a combination set, Calipers and Micrometer... But I will get a proper mitutoyo someday, I wont buy again from Amazon on this one. I just want to treat myself with a genuine Mitutoyo digital caliper. No knockoff.

@@deezworkshop If you stick to amazon as the seller, I'm 100% sure it will be genuine. I've only ever had problems when going to the random-name sellers, which I now avoid like the plague. If I have any doubt and amazon doesn't sell it themselves, I'll go to another tool vendor and pay for shipping, it's just not worth the few bucks IMHO.

@@KayRoepke I think your right. At least its Amazon and they are responsible for it. I am happy to have gotten my refund from that reseller i originally purchased from. I have learned a lot from this purchase...lot of what to avoid. Fortunately it has only amounted to a hassle and not something huge. Hopefully others learn from my mistake.

Definitely have to watch what you’re buying. Getting easy to get scammed.

I Really thought I did my research on the calipers and thought where I bought them from was a Mitutoyo store as in ran by them. But not so. I will not even try to buy them again from amazon.

@deezworkshop try a reputable big brand shop, that sucks that it's a knock off. I paid $220 Aud for a mitutoyo digi mic, $50 on sale, there not cheap, and the calipers are close to that, coolant proof even more. You'll get a original set I'm sure, don't give up👍👌🇦🇺

I tried to save what I could, donated a lot. It was a shame the family wanted nothign to do with anything. There was so much stuff to go through. tons and tons more than I have in this video.

100% agree. For knockoffs they seemed built ok but I didnt buy knock offs. I wanted the original authentic tool. It has been shipped back and so far I have been refunded. Hopefully thats the end of it with this reseller. When I am ready to buy again I will look at McMaster Carr or another trusted seller of tooling.

@@deezworkshop just do it. The sooner you get them the longer you can enjoy them. Mitutoyo Absolute Digimatic is the stuff. You've got the right idea. Starrett is practically in receivership today. I don't know if they really make their digital gear anyways. Even Mr Pete has sworn the red brand off now. Real Mitutoyo calipers are a treat. Tool crack! It's da buttah.

No, Honestly knock offs are much better in quality that you would think for their price. The issue for me is I bought this thinking it was genuine and it wasnt. That is deceitful and dishonest. Drives me nuts and I dispise scammers and that sort of thing. I have learned to be much more careful on Amazon. I became a little too trusting of the stores out there.

@ I have a Mitutoyo 12” digital calipers that only set me back $900 they were on sale at the time. Most of my metrology tools are Starrett and they were very expensive as well. There are some off brand tool companies out there that sell some decent quality tools, Shars is one of them. What I learned from my days working in dimensional inspection, when we would send out untouched brand new off brand tools for QC certs, we would receive back a laundry list of issues that the tools had along with a failed QC report. Those brand new tools that failed QC were destroyed because their accuracy, although the tool was new, could not be guaranteed according to the ISO/IEC 17025 standard.

@@taranson3057 interesting stuff. Makes a lot of sense when you are working with tools that are expected to perform.

The Brass hammer is awesome. Great idea with this beaters. Ill hang onto them. thanks. I have a lot of the hammers and older tools tucked away in buckets for future cleanups.

@@deezworkshop you'll find some old beaters in my garage. They're for stirring old paint. You can bring it back with a stick. The beater is faster and easier. Which if I'm skimping on paint I'm all about. Some paint's too far gone. I've brought a lot of borderline cases back from the brink though. Just give it a good beating.

Absolutely. I have learned my lesson on this one. If I want something genuine and trust it’s original I will only use a trusted reseller. I honestly thought I did my research but I made a mistake on this one. Clough42 has some good videos and information for sure.

@@deezworkshop Right now on MSC the cheapest Mitutoyo calipers are $148.53 I've got a feeling that's what they cost no matter where you get them. A lot of companies do not allow their retailers to discount. They make a set profit. You undercut and you lose your dealership status. MSRP isn't just a suggestion. Now maybe some places can give you a better shipping deal. But you're going to pay that price. Mitutoyo has a dealer locator on their website. Buy through that. Those are the only people you can get legit product from. Absolutely everyone else is selling bogus junk. There are no exceptions.

I have no doubts it will cut or bevel mild steel. I have done that many times, I have cut stainless as well but not worked with it a whole lot. The depth of your cuts will be the key. I have cut some pretty hard materials but it gets through them. You may burn up some carbide or stall if you take too deep a cut but once you learn your machine and are comfortable using it you will discover you can do all sorts of things. Good luck.

A couple other observations: 1) As others have said- tap follower & lube! But what others haven't specifically stated is what lube. In my limited experience, WD40 works ok for aluminum, but my real preference for non-ferrous is the kinda pricey TapMatic #1 Gold- not to be confused with Tap Magic, which I've never tried. For titanium or other situations where I'm working with hard metal or possibly really expensive exotic metal, I'll reach for the Castrol Variocut C Moly Dee. On some occasions, I have also used Anchorlube for tapping, though for whatever reason I tend to only really use Anchorlube for drilling. In a recent Topper Machine video, Josh used Anchorlube for tapping cast iron. 2) On an angled or curved surface, try making your recess cut first with your end mill plunge cut and THEN drill. You've likely heard Blondiehacks referring to "spot facing" before (she seems to love to do this). Cutting the recess (or spot face) first gives an orthogonal surface for your drill bit to cut on. You transfer punched the connecting holes- so you probably would have been good to go, but if you made each part to the plans without ever referencing the other- it's likely your holes wouldn't have lined up due to your drill bit creeping downhill a bit on that angled surface. I recognize that you used the drill bit to locate your center punch. Fine. But as annoying as it is- it would be best to swap out to the end mill once located, and then swap back to the drill. Alternatively, you could have used an edge finder on the end of the part since you knew your outer hole was .200" from the end. Machining is often a fun, yet frustrating game of "did you _really_ get your order of operations right and minimize tool swaps." ha!

I should conventional cut more often, This machine does handle climb cuts pretty well but you can feel it pull the materials if you are taking to deep a but. Also really appreciate all the tips and suggestions in your followup post. Thanks for watching as I continue to learn and improve my skills and just hanging with me in the shop. Cheers.

I will be remaking this engine. Spoiler alert lol. I want to make another improved version and ill work on design elements and better techniques to achieve a solid engine. It was a great show and I am glad to have made it up there. Joe Pie is a fantastic resource. learning a lot from him.

Forgot to say, I dont have a Rotary table but have been eyeballing them. I could have used one several times i think but I understand that you either love them or hate them. I havent grabbed one yet as I am not sure if I would use it but as I get into hobby machining I can see where a rotary table would be very convienent to have in place.

@ I initially bought a grizzly 4” rotary table, which worked fine, I suppose. It’s just REALLY small. I “upgraded” to a shars 6” which was a nice table which I used for a few years. However, I really enjoyed it and still felt limited by the small table sizes. I finally _truly_ upgraded to a Yuasa 10” table which has been absolutely phenomenal. If you do end up getting one- save your money on the small stuff and go the biggest you can get/use. I know everyone says that, but when you think about the area a strap clamp takes, you can imagine just how fast you run out of space after having a clamp on either side of your part.

@@deemstyle Great advice. I recently watched a video from Blondie.. I think it was tools not to purchase. Also watched another random video on youtube and she pointed out how small it was as well. I will keep this in mind when the day comes for me to look at getting one. Thanks,

@@DarrenLane yep- Quinn is spot on in her assessment on rotary table sizes and my experience on table size completely aligns with hers. As long as it actually fits on your mill, the only downside to a big rotary table is that they are HEAVY things to move around! I’m still dreaming of a Sky Hook

Thank you for posting this. You have expressed exactly how I feel about this machine. After purchasing the PM Mill I really love that machine, I have to ask, how do you like the PM Lathe? I will be looking into one of those and a few other brands when the time comes to upgrade from the Vevor. Thanks for watching and your input.

@@deezworkshop Both my mill and lathe are from Precision Matthews, and I couldn't be happier with them. I absolutely love my lathe-the PM-1130V with the D1-4 spindle and DRO-and have already put in quite a few hours on it. It’s become my go-to machine, even more so than my milling machine. Overall, it’s solid and reliable. My experience with the 7x14 lathe previously helped me define what I wanted in an upgrade, and the PM lathe checked nearly all those boxes. If I ever decide to upgrade again, I’d definitely stick with Precision Matthews!

I am really glad to hear that. I have also learned several things to look for in my net upgrade. One thing I really want is the ability to do single point threading without changing out gears, I suspect I may need a gearbox type lathe to do this but there could be other options out there as well. I will look into that more when the time comes to upgrade. It will be a couple years before i look at getting a lathe upgrade...well thats the plan right now anyway. Thanks for the info.

Thanks, No but I am not too far. I will never stop learning but thats whats fun about this hobby. There is so much to learn and build on. Good luck on your hobby and learnign expereince and if you ever have any questions send me an email or message on a video and I will try to help where I can. Remember I am an amateur hobby machinist but hopefully some of my mistakes can help you avoid them. I think the 7x14 is slightly smaller than the one I have but all the concepts and experiences are the same. They may have many of the same components too. Thanks for watching.

I dont do this often, I dont do this ever, I was respectful to the man, I meant no disrespect to him but he obviously cared little for these tools considering the condition they were in and what it took for me to gather this small sampling together. His own children wanted nothing to do with these tools, I was glad to have tried to salvage some of this mans legacy of tooling, the rest was donated to others who wanted it or put back in their tool boxes and given to a group who wanted it. The items that were discarded were truly trash, covered in racoon and rat feces and rusted or beyond repair.

Actually I think you were disrespectful to another mans tools. I didn't see anything that was gross or nasty. Just a lifetime of tools being tossed on a table that belonged to a person that you didn't know. Just remember someday your tools and junk will be purchased and critiqued, hopefully in a more respectful way than you did. FYI- dirty tools are in most cases hidden gems waiting to be restored. Your knowledge of old tools is lacking.

I have some. Good advice. If it a a quick mark or lay out the marker is fine but I did a lot of work with some of these pieces and I agree that dykem would work out a lot better for this kind of work.

I wouldntnhave even thought about this until after I built this one. You are spot on my friend. If you have the machines, take on a small model engine build. It will test your skills and you will learn a lot. Great advice.

I did notice the squeak noise. then snap. I agree the thinner the taps the more careful I need to be. Those HF taps are made of dust or pressed metal. they are a strange material as well but its my fault at this point for using them, After this project I have started buying quality taps for sizes as I need them for upcoming projects. I definitely see the point about using a tap follower...thanks for pointing that out. I was thinking that the follower was really to get taps started straight but the point about rigidity makes perfect sense. Thanks for the information.

I was cringing when I heard that squeak, and knew exactly what was coming next. Lubrication could have prevented that, cheap tap or not.

Yeah. I have nothing to blame but myself now when breaking taps.

I will be making another one of these builds and will use the granite plate for layouts. Thanks for pointing that out. Kind of forget to use the tools I have at hand. I learned a lot and want to redo this build with these kinds of changes.

This really was a fun project. Some have pointed out that model engine making is addictive..I can see where they are coming from.

Keen eye my friend, Yeah I am working on updating my identity or brand. I have a video to explain or introduce it coming wednesday. Felt the old logo and banner were stale.

Its coming along. This is a really fun project. Thanks,

I will try that, I actually have a painting task to work on so this will be a good test.

Not a lot of great things in this lot but I thinkn the effort to see what was there was worth it. I dis manage to save some things that I will put to use, My family got a lot of the wrenches. making tool sets for the nephews. Oddly enough many of these wrenches complete sets that were missing sizes from several family members tool collections. At least someone will use them

Thats cool your dad was a machinest there, I checked and they werent actually clippers but they were Crimpers, Make in Ohio by "National Telephone Supply Company" Not sure they will be of any use to me but neat old tool.

I cleaned it up recently and it is an Eagle as you pointed out.

Agreed. Most of it was junk and I’ve already given it away. I personally think the old fella became senile in his later years and bought many many repeat tools thinking he didn’t have them.

I liked the simplicity but for never building one it certainly challenged me. I will make another one of these someday changing some things up along the way but this was a really fun build. I have my eyes on Steam and other types of engines as well. great excuse to use the Mill and Lathes. :-)

Thank you for sharing this. I want to share but only if I have the rights to do so and am doing it correctly. Much appreciated.

I appreciate it. Learned a lot on this project and what not to do. I will tackle this build again after learning what I have during this build. Cheers and Thanks.

I appreciate it and thank you for subscribing. Thats what this channel is about, Learning together with other entry level hobbyists who are learning and having fun.