Great video! I've done it twice this way now and it saves you both time and $$ for parts you no longer need related to pulling the intake manifold. Let me add a couple of recommendations: 1) Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery in the trunk, block the latch so you don't lock yourself out, then disconnect the power cable at the starter (13 mm bolt?) that runs across the front of the control module to the alternator and let it hang. This will significantly improve access to the control module. 2) There are a couple of vacuum lines that run across the control module as well. They are easily disconnected from their U-clips and give you a little more access to the module. 3) Disconnect the round plug with the long skinny screwdriver as depicted in the video then but remove both nuts at this point. This will permit easier access to the locking tabs on both sides of the square cable to the control module. A quick shot of PTFE dry lube spray to the locking tabs will make them much easier to release (audible "click") for those who don't have "Vise Grip" fingers. Thanks
The vacum lines are not easy to disconnect from connectors at all. It's very easy to brake the connectors while doing this. I had to cut these lines at the end to free them up.
Worked also in x5 e70. You can use the screwdriver to pop out the linger socket after clicking the clips. It took me about 2 hours in total. Thank you for posting this great video.
A huge thanks for the vid. I just replaced the controller in my '13 x5 35d and this was a huge help. Not the easiest, and I feel for those guys with big hands, but its dooable. I had some success with the nuts using a 1/4 universal along with my extension. I used masking tape to keep everything in place. Thanks again.
Thank you so much for this video. Managed to do it this way on my 325d. Apart from the big connector being stubbon it only took me an hour to do. Even used the tape method too!
Thank you sir!! Very good information. I don't have manly man hands like some of you horses, so I didn't have to undo any bolts, etc to get into the module. Took me about 20 minutes as the large plug was a real sunny beach but I got it, replaced module and all is well in 335d land now.
Just had my X5 3.5d done today. Scanner spew out Particulate filter and all six glow plugs errors. Took a good 2-3 hours to complete with a good 70% of the time trying to get the big connector out. Before you “pinch” the big connector, push the the connector in then “pinch” and pull at the same time. The small connector was easy to disconnect as per instruction. The glow plug errors now gone and hopefully it will do a particulate filter regeneration. Thank you for the tips.
Did you fix your problem? Make sure the coolant temperature is above 85C. There are a lot of instructions online to show how to check it. If the thermostat is bad, the glow plug and DPF problem won't be solved.
Bo Yu hi there, I believe so. I don’t get the dreaded particulate filter “logo” on the dash board anymore. I have a Creator C310+ scanner for BMW and upgrading it to the latest version v8.2 included a new feature to reset the DPF. I had a 452C error but this is gone now. Cheers.
So if i get this right, i have a 325d -08 with glow problems. I get fault codes on all glow plugs and relay. And i get a fault code on particle filter. Can the glow plug relay cause this?
X5e70 did work but had to modify just a little. Coolant hoses are tighter and I could not get the big connector off all the way until controller was off. The connector was hitting the transmission and would not allow enough clearance to remove completely.
Something to note that I don't think anyone else has pointed out is that this is much different on a 35d X5. There are a lot more coolant and vacuum lines in the way. I don't know if it's harder or easier but it definitely seems harder. There's no easy way to get your hand behind the coolant lines like in the video above.
Correct this is for the 335. The x5 is more difficult and it can be done with the intake in, but it is such a hassle to do it that way. I did the x5 with the intake on once to try it and will recommend pulling the intake. The tips and process from this video still help
Used this video with slight modification for access to the bottom of the module for x5d. Here is a quick video I made: th-cam.com/video/VEytMybfgyk/w-d-xo.html
My 335d has jus stopped starting came out of the shops the other day an went to start it an it went to start but didnt an now wont start at all or crank an has a coil symbol on the dash can this be caused by this glow plug controller do you know ? Thanks
I think the computer tells the car when to use the glow plugs on start up and it will tell you on the dash.. if its really cold out it will do that. While that light is on your starting can be delayed. Just keep holding the brake after pushing the button and it should start.
Just had the same issue on my 335d. I sharpened a long thin flat head screwdriver and chiselled the small plastic lug off the module itself, the module was faulty anyway so no worries there. The square connector then came off using the pinch/push/pull technique. Thankfully it was the tab on the front that broke!
Do do you think that if the silver wires are touching themselves inside the glow module that they're short themselves out thanks bro I seen you on the e90 forums and our facebook page 335d North America page I'm skincandy and I just ripped out my glow plug module for the heater unit thanks to your video last night took it apart and trying to fix it. I don't see any obvious damage but a lot of the silver wires were touching I mean after I pulled off the goo
Enricodf I was getting an error for glow plug #2 when I ohmed it put from the connector it was the same as the others.. The gpm seems to be the main thing that fails
I looked up the wiring diagram. There are 6 thick wires and those are the to glow plug. I don’t remember which color are to which plug. If I find my note book I can tell you what the colors are. The resistance should be close the same.
At 3:11, you can see the pin holes on the big connector. Did you measure the resistance through these pin holes? I thought you were because you didn't remove the manifold. This connector is your only access.
correct I measured the resistance through the holes. the pin holes are the same ones that make contact with the pins on the controller itself. I simply grounded one side to the car and probed the connector contacts.
Im not 100% on the 335 I think the sub frame is in the way. It is really easy to get from the top.. or you can spend an extra 30 minutes and pull the intake. I know the x5 No I looked on that. The subframe and Xdrive junk is blocking the path.
push them up first and pull down.. you can also use a flathead screw driver on the big plug.. just be sure the clips are undone.. The little round one should pop right off.. the bigger plug will make a "click" sound, it has two tabs to undo..
You didn't show the hard bit, which is putting the new one on! And this is much much harder, nigh impossible on a E63 635d. I now have a bolt lying somewhere in my engine bay.
Did step by step & it was very helpful! Electric tape was clutch taking off and putting nuts on. Thanks for being a TH-cam mechanic
This is THE way to do this! Much faster than removing the intake manifold. I’ve done this twice.
Great video! I've done it twice this way now and it saves you both time and $$ for parts you no longer need related to pulling the intake manifold. Let me add a couple of recommendations:
1) Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery in the trunk, block the latch so you don't lock yourself out, then disconnect the power cable at the starter (13 mm bolt?) that runs across the front of the control module to the alternator and let it hang. This will significantly improve access to the control module.
2) There are a couple of vacuum lines that run across the control module as well. They are easily disconnected from their U-clips and give you a little more access to the module.
3) Disconnect the round plug with the long skinny screwdriver as depicted in the video then but remove both nuts at this point. This will permit easier access to the locking tabs on both sides of the square cable to the control module. A quick shot of PTFE dry lube spray to the locking tabs will make them much easier to release (audible "click") for those who don't have "Vise Grip" fingers.
Thanks
The vacum lines are not easy to disconnect from connectors at all. It's very easy to brake the connectors while doing this. I had to cut these lines at the end to free them up.
Worked also in x5 e70. You can use the screwdriver to pop out the linger socket after clicking the clips. It took me about 2 hours in total. Thank you for posting this great video.
A huge thanks for the vid. I just replaced the controller in my '13 x5 35d and this was a huge help. Not the easiest, and I feel for those guys with big hands, but its dooable. I had some success with the nuts using a 1/4 universal along with my extension. I used masking tape to keep everything in place.
Thanks again.
Thank you so much for this video. Managed to do it this way on my 325d. Apart from the big connector being stubbon it only took me an hour to do. Even used the tape method too!
Glad it helped!
Thank you sir!! Very good information. I don't have manly man hands like some of you horses, so I didn't have to undo any bolts, etc to get into the module. Took me about 20 minutes as the large plug was a real sunny beach but I got it, replaced module and all is well in 335d land now.
I'm going to have to get my wife to help next time. My hands just don't fit into these tight spaces.
Hi bud!
I just completed this job today including glow plugs. Your video helped me how to remove the plugs!! Big thanks! Car is transformed big time.
Thumbs up just for the "that's what she said" 😂
You just saved me a ton of time and hassle! Thanks for posting.
I just finished replacing the controller, it took me an hour not to bad. Thanks!
Thanks a lot I just put it out in 10 mins, waiting for new one :)
Just had my X5 3.5d done today. Scanner spew out Particulate filter and all six glow plugs errors. Took a good 2-3 hours to complete with a good 70% of the time trying to get the big connector out. Before you “pinch” the big connector, push the the connector in then “pinch” and pull at the same time. The small connector was easy to disconnect as per instruction. The glow plug errors now gone and hopefully it will do a particulate filter regeneration. Thank you for the tips.
Did you fix your problem? Make sure the coolant temperature is above 85C. There are a lot of instructions online to show how to check it. If the thermostat is bad, the glow plug and DPF problem won't be solved.
Bo Yu hi there, I believe so. I don’t get the dreaded particulate filter “logo” on the dash board anymore. I have a Creator C310+ scanner for BMW and upgrading it to the latest version v8.2 included a new feature to reset the DPF. I had a 452C error but this is gone now. Cheers.
Follow the video at www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1421120, monitor the coolant temperature. It's simple and worth to do.
So if i get this right, i have a 325d -08 with glow problems. I get fault codes on all glow plugs and relay. And i get a fault code on particle filter. Can the glow plug relay cause this?
Thanks for this tip. Was struggling at first, pushed in as you recommended, heard the click, and now the connector is off.
X5e70 did work but had to modify just a little. Coolant hoses are tighter and I could not get the big connector off all the way until controller was off. The connector was hitting the transmission and would not allow enough clearance to remove completely.
awesome changed mine 2012 e70 35d x5 1.5hrs no intake removal. thanks almost removed intake and other crap
Awesome video. Took me about an hour or so. Great trick with the electric tape. Would have lost some hardware for sure.
Thanks for the video, saved me a lot of time, don't know how you are able to get your hands in there without removing the intake
Anytime! Like I mentioned in the video the secret path 🤣🤣
For the big connector, you have to push in then squeeze the tabs. It comes off really easy
Could you use magnetic sockets instead of electric tape?
Something to note that I don't think anyone else has pointed out is that this is much different on a 35d X5. There are a lot more coolant and vacuum lines in the way. I don't know if it's harder or easier but it definitely seems harder. There's no easy way to get your hand behind the coolant lines like in the video above.
Correct this is for the 335. The x5 is more difficult and it can be done with the intake in, but it is such a hassle to do it that way. I did the x5 with the intake on once to try it and will recommend pulling the intake. The tips and process from this video still help
Used this video with slight modification for access to the bottom of the module for x5d. Here is a quick video I made: th-cam.com/video/VEytMybfgyk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. I have to replace mine 2011 335d.
also
That's what she said, lol
Great video thanks 👍
Thank you sir
Hope it’s same for my 535d E60 😉👍🏻
My 335d has jus stopped starting came out of the shops the other day an went to start it an it went to start but didnt an now wont start at all or crank an has a coil symbol on the dash can this be caused by this glow plug controller do you know ? Thanks
I think the computer tells the car when to use the glow plugs on start up and it will tell you on the dash.. if its really cold out it will do that. While that light is on your starting can be delayed. Just keep holding the brake after pushing the button and it should start.
Any suggestions if the tab on the front of the square connector breaks off when it was squeezed?
Just had the same issue on my 335d. I sharpened a long thin flat head screwdriver and chiselled the small plastic lug off the module itself, the module was faulty anyway so no worries there. The square connector then came off using the pinch/push/pull technique.
Thankfully it was the tab on the front that broke!
Do do you think that if the silver wires are touching themselves inside the glow module that they're short themselves out thanks bro I seen you on the e90 forums and our facebook page 335d North America page I'm skincandy and I just ripped out my glow plug module for the heater unit thanks to your video last night took it apart and trying to fix it. I don't see any obvious damage but a lot of the silver wires were touching I mean after I pulled off the goo
Hi 335_420 :))) I mean 335stoner
Also do you think it has to be mounted back in the same place as a f****** b**** does it have to be grounded to the block
Tiffany DIYs for your vacuum hoses they're orange I have to install
SKiNCANDY9 I think its more of the cheapness of the little wires inside. When I removed the goo they are so brittle the littlest movement brakes them.
But when you need to replace it? You see an error on the car board computer? Or some warning light on??
Enricodf I was getting an error for glow plug #2 when I ohmed it put from the connector it was the same as the others.. The gpm seems to be the main thing that fails
How did you measure the glow plug resistance? There are six holes on the connector? I saw from your video some holes are black (empty)?
I looked up the wiring diagram. There are 6 thick wires and those are the to glow plug. I don’t remember which color are to which plug. If I find my note book I can tell you what the colors are. The resistance should be close the same.
At 3:11, you can see the pin holes on the big connector. Did you measure the resistance through these pin holes? I thought you were because you didn't remove the manifold. This connector is your only access.
correct I measured the resistance through the holes. the pin holes are the same ones that make contact with the pins on the controller itself. I simply grounded one side to the car and probed the connector contacts.
Can I remove it from underneath??
Im not 100% on the 335 I think the sub frame is in the way. It is really easy to get from the top.. or you can spend an extra 30 minutes and pull the intake. I know the x5 No I looked on that. The subframe and Xdrive junk is blocking the path.
2hrs+ and I still can't get the plugs off the module! You make it look easy, but mine ain't budging
push them up first and pull down.. you can also use a flathead screw driver on the big plug.. just be sure the clips are undone..
The little round one should pop right off.. the bigger plug will make a "click" sound, it has two tabs to undo..
omg the camera shaking is killing this video
Sorry didn't have a film crew and coffee was really kicking 🤣
You didn't show the hard bit, which is putting the new one on! And this is much much harder, nigh impossible on a E63 635d. I now have a bolt lying somewhere in my engine bay.
Make more how-to videos
“Easily”
i watched 2 mins and said f this guy, im just going to take off the manifold. done it enough times already. not that hard.