What you said, "Being respectful to other people" especially your customers.. To me, that that is most important, if a person running a business is disrespectful to me, the 'customer' for no reason I go elsewhere. That business will close, or remain small with few customers in the long run. It don't cost anything to be nice, and it sure builds goodwill and a successful business..
Outstanding video thank you. My sawmill was cutting hourglass shapes into my timbers so that they were about a quarter inch narrower in the middle than the ends and this video was very helpful in diagnosing the problem
I've found that extra set in the blade really helps with pine, and spruce. I've also found that extra set doesn't seem to hurt with other woods, like oak etc. So, I just order my blades with 30 thousandths set. 25 thousandths is standard by the way.
Yes that is true, we run around 22 thousandths for all of our blades. I have run different sets before but they tend to get mixed up in the pile if I don't mark properly.
Definitely going to start cutting from the top. I've spent days leveling and tinkering with my new mill only to start getting wavy cuts after 2 passes again. Thanks for the info.
Just today I have cut 6 knotty pine logs everyone was the small end towards the mill head, not a single wave in the boards. The technique really works as long as you have a sharp blade.
Hi, Nice explanation. A big consideration is the timber and the 'set' on the blade. Assuming the blade is sharp, Green wood tends to 'tear' slightly some timbers Poplar, Willow etc are very soft and do leave a lot of fibres. Blades tend to be made to cope with 'anything' so will have 'maximum set' dry timber cuts with far less tendency to 'tear' as it is 'harder' so a blade with reduces set will cut well without binding. Look at a 'commercial' band mill' the blade is not 1" wide more like 6" to 12" so the cut stabilises the blade whilst the '1" blade is not guided so well so will wander particularly is the feed is too great, folks tend to forget the cutting rate is dependent on several factors, one very important one is the volume of the gullet...when it is full of sawdust it holds the blade off the cutting face, until it can empty, so a wide log will cut much slower as the gullets limit the cut rate, so you need to 'feel' the resistance to the feed to stop 'overfeed'. Lastly consider the amount of wood you are removing, a large set means you are removing a lot of timber, that takes energy, makes more sawdust, and slows the cut rate ( feet/min)
One good thing about manual feed sawing verses power feed, I can tell immediately when my blade is going south. And I still prefer to use windshield fluid, just have to crank it up with pine.
Yes, I agree, I started out on a Timberking 1220 and then a Woodmizer LT15. On a manual mill, you are much more aware of your blade performance. The first time I transitioned over to a hydraulic sawmill (TK 1400), I had to really pay attention to my blade performance because you don't feel the resistance through hydraulics.
Great vid. Ive had luck with running dish soap and bar oil mixed in water. The soap suspends the bar oil in the water and seems to really keep the pitch build up down.
I'll have to check that out. I recently ran diesel for a bit as I cut some very hard long leaf pine. It was the only thing I could use due to build-up on the blade.
Glad you enjoyed, there are a few more videos I am working on going over head and frame alignment. There are so many factors that can make good and bad lumber.
Tom If you want to cut straight Set the down pressure at 1/4" not 1/8", way straighter. That's the first thing I did when I got my TK Use 4 degree hook angle rather than 10 degree, way straighter and cut straighter longer A little overset in pine, especially in dry pine You shouldn't need to baby the feed rate Keep the blade clean
Thanks for the info. Most all my blades are at 8 degrees now and I have 6 degrees for the hard stuff. I've been wanting to try 4 degrees. I'm going to pass onto my buddy as well about the 1/4" down on guides. He's been cutting some logs from a customer that are supper knotty and having some issues keeping the blade flat.
Knotty pine can be tough . If you blade is diving that bad I would check your drive belt tension . I struggled with that issue . I run an LT50 and we run a lot more blade tension than you are using . Close to 3000 psi . Maybe this can help . Thanks for the videos .
I'm currently running 1.25" blades if I go to the 1.5" blades I would run a lot more pressure. I don't get dives very often but when I do it's typically in pine with a lot of pitch or knots. It also happens after a nail strike, 😆. I and going to be doing a video sometime this summer going over different blade types (thickness, widths, pressures, hook angle, tooth spacing etc). Thanks for the comment and happy sawing.
@@TCSawmills Good info I have a harbor freight sawmill and it’s always a dull blade for me, anyone with the same mill please remember to lock carriage after setting depth something I kept forgetting to do till I saw the engine actually move when the blade dipped
@@TCSawmills I run 1 1/4 blades too . I find I can cut flatter with 10 deg blades in bad stuff because it causes me to slow down a touch . I usually run a 7 deg for most wood and push it to the limit .
I've went to diesel on pine. It keeps everything clean on the machine. I just had to much pitch or pine tar build up on the guide wheels and blade. One drop per second.
Tooth sets effects blade travel, tracking, I don’t no much about timber kings👍thanks! Is it auto feed? Using just water - dish soap. I was told to saw to start on the worst side of the log. Knots, knots, knots. You can base your speed from the start cuts.
I rent a friends woodmiser lt 15 wide and when I'm done getting what I need for a cut list and there is more log left I cut the rest at 3" because that is what my tablesaw can handle to resaw that down to. Nothing is prettier than clear Fir or Larch 30" dia.
Ur Videos are always welcome and we'll made. I have learned a lot of them. Thanks But here in Germany I run a woodmizer LT 40 super hydraulic. Have a great day
Thank you for the kind words, the LT40 is a great mill too. My buddy Mr.Robert has run a few of them over past 30 or more years. I'll have a video out on one in the upcoming months.
Thats me down to a toothpick i picked up a little pc of reclaimed pine from the cutoff box the other day & started carving a little bird. Historical windows & doors my job
I've definitely noticed the pitch buildup with older logs. I normally run a heavey soap solution but next time I run into a pitch problem, I'm gonna try deisel fuel.
To clean my blades I really like using Dawn soap liberally in my water and when I get a lot of build up I hit the blade with a wire brush while its running with the water and that works really well for me.. Huge decrease in the wavy cuts for me!
My sawmill isn’t perfectly level, it has a slight downhill grade that kinda aids in the unit sawing… it is however perfectly flat… I assume this is okay?
Yes, you should be good. I have set up at a job site before that had a rather large slope to property. Same thing as you are describing, I was good left to right and the frame was straight down the length of the tracks but there was a slope from the back of the sawmill to the front. It worked well with no issues.
I would like to see how your drive is run from motor to blade pulley. I see on your 2220 mill you drive belt can’t be seen. I have a 1600 and my drive belt can be seen and it does keep me from cutting the full depth of cut to the shield
New wood mizer lt 40 use 3200-3300PSI blade tension and the old lt40s from the 1990s use 2200-2300 PSI blade tension. The main difference in tension is due to mill rigidity.
We have an upcoming video going over gauge pressure on the sawmill vs actual blade tension. This will go over various sawmill manufacturers and what they recommend on the gauge and how that compares amongst the various sawmills. We have some very interesting data to share.
Every 2 years take the guide wheels to a machine shop and have the blade area re surfaced in a lathe using carbide. Only take a few thousands off or just enough to make them flat. Using the level / straight edge on a new blade, the level is just a straight edge not looking at the bubble, do it over a another level / straight edge 6 feet long, spanning 3-4 bunks and measure between levels @ around 12 inches apart , you may need to file or grind the sides of each level to a knife edge at the measuring points for the best readings.Dead on is best +- 1/32 will work. Check the level with the guide rollers wide open and check the near and far side with out moving the saw head.You may need to adjust the saw head for level also doing this. Then do it in 3 sections of the mill bed to check the bunks also. Give yourself a few hours to make this important adjustment. Open the logs with a used blade and change to a new blade for the money cuts. Pine knots will cut flatter with a 7 degree tooth blade. I run a woodmizer LT 40 super hydraulic, 50 HP Cat Diesel, 8000 hrs.
Yes in harder woods I use 6 degrees and most everything else I do 8 degrees. I have not cut frozen logs before but I've heard that some people use 4 degrees. As you decrease the angle your cutting speed slows.
I am running into this same issue, blade is sharp cribs are lvl blades lvl but I did notice a drive belt seemed to be loose while running but seems tight while sitting which is odd
After you adjust your guides. Check the flatness of the blade. Place a razor blade across the blade in between the guides. You'll be able to see if there is a hump or a gap. I'd say that you have to much of a gap causing the blade to rise at first then dive.
@@jackslumber1891 do you have roller guides? If so make sure the blade is flat. Put some down pressure on the blade with your guides. Around 1/8" but no more than 1/4". Make sure the blade is parallel with the log bed.
@@mgbill793 I don’t have roller guides, my sawmill has graphite pads. My blades are about 5” wide and I can clearly see a gap between the pads and blade. I have been fiddling with it today but will try some more deflection tomorrow and see if that helps. Just been reading on forums that you can get blades rolled flat so that might be something to try too. Thanks for your help!
After many years of sharpening blXes fur my mill and many other people I have found you need .ofr set in the blade when you are sawing aged pine logs. If you want to send me one I will set it up to saw gef pine logs. Thank you joel Weston
9 x.out.10. bjade rise when entering a cut is caused by the drive belt not hAving enough tension on it that is the first thinv that I check when I'm having troue with the blades rising in the cut then leveling off though out tbe remainder of the cut.
Yellow Pine in the south is plentiful so its cut more than anything else.. I agree Pine in a pine in the butt but i found running dish washing soap in the water prevents the sap from sticking so bad..
Hello, I am trying to cut a 18 inch yellow birch which is full of knots but it is absolutely beautiful. My blade keeps going upwards even after attempting to solve the issue. It is possible the sawmill is just incapable of sawing the log?
I wouldn't think so, if it's going up there are a few things that could be off. Sharpness is a big factor along with proper set. What types of guides do you have? Rollers? If they aren't set correctly your blade could travel more that it should. Also tension could be an issue. Also if it's a large tree engine rpm could play a part, you should keep the loading of the engine constant but controlling speed of cut. How big is the diameter of the tree and what type of sawmill?
I watched your video and listened to everything you said. What I saw was too much buildup on the blade and tires. Looking at your water nozzle before you wiped it off there was too much build up. Your not running enough water to keep your blade lubricated. It's getting too hot during the cuts. More lubrication keeps the blade cool and it will not be as influenced by the grain. It will stay sharper longer! I would bump the tension up a little at a time and see if that doesn't improve your cuts as well. Lube the heck out of that blade though!
if your not setting the teeth every time u sharpening they will not cut straight. I've sawing for 30 years I went through that years ago . try that sense I do that dont have any problems
The issue seems to be exclusive to mainly pitch pine(southern yellow pine), the pitch buildup causes all types of issues w/ the band blades as you have identified. You can increase down pressure on the guides, use diesel or pine sol for cutting fluid, etc but truthfully, bandsaws suck at cutting yellow pine w/ heavy pitch. I actually had a log pile of older growth yellow pine logs that could not be cut on the bandsaw, period, instant pitch build up, instant blade dive. Keep in mind the is on a TK2400. I ended up buying a circular sawmill to run beside the band mill, it cuts pitch pine & knotty pine like butter and production is double the board footage on square edge/dimensional lumber and lumber is always straight, no blade diving frustrations. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for this and you are exactly right, my buddy has a swing blade and he said same thing. Every mill has its pros and cons. I have not personally run a circle saw but hope to one day.
I have done that as well as some other oil based products, it definitely helps. My buddy wants me to run diesel, I just can't do that. It would be just one more tank I'd have to fill.
don't you have to set the blade at a certain pressure and maybe you have to reset the tooth on the blade to a finer setting after you have sharpened the blade
We check the set on a cooks dual tooth setter. We set around .022" to .025" on each tooth every time. It's been the ticket for me for years. On really soft wood I have set it to .030" but only a few times. Our process on every blade is clean the blade, set the blade then sharpen.
It does break down the belts prematurely, however I only run a diesel drip when the pitch build-up is excessive. Once I'm done cutting the pitchy stuff I switch back to water. So little to no impact.
@@andybayliss2020 I have not noticed any degrading of my band wheel belts. The saw gets a little oily with the diesel is all. I did install a lubemizer system, so I only use maby a gallon or so per day of diesel cutting lumber. I wad having extreme blade wear in cutting standing dead burr oak due to large amount of sand inbedded in the logs. Switching from water mixed with soap and vegetable oil to diesel extended my blade life significantly and keeps my blades perfectly clean.
I've never had the triple wide drive belt slip, even when the log bows in the middle and point loades the ends as the blade goes through. It will drastically lower engine rpm until it cuts through. I've also not noticed any slippage between the wheel belts and the blade, but I'll have to check for that going forward. I keep pretty good belts on and have a decent crown on them. When they flatten out I replace them. In this instance my blade was up and down based on the fact that it was very dull and there were harder knots in the surrounding softer wood. I was out of pinesol for this video but I typically run it in wood that's full of pitch.
A Level ? Is that really how it works ? I don't know about how timber king dose it, but level has nothing to do with it, on a Wood-Mizer or Cooks sawmill ? I am just asking, not trying to be a smart@##. Great video but not sure about the level thing ?
I only check it if I have a problem, I have only had to make one adjustment in 265 hrs of running the sawmill and that was caused by me having to remove the bearing for maintenance.
They make a blade level and I check mine about every 500 / 600 hrs and it needsto be perfectly level. And run diesel and trans fluid mix never have issues with pitch
Using the level is fine,, but I always move the mill forward & back & check the front & rear of the level over each bunk. Then, it doesn't matter if the mill/ track is level or not,, Right? ;>) My old Mark 4 mill has oak bunks on it & the middle bunks wear out way before the ends. Another reason to check the blade to bunk relationship. Just saying.
@@gsmscrazycanuck9814 Ever hear of knotty pine wall paneling, no way could every pine log sawed have no knots, With the right blade and the mill set up right my mill saws straight through knots with no problem
@@oliverm5sc I have knotty pine in my house. It has very small knots. If you want to make knotty pine lumber, go ahead. If I have a market for other types of lumber, I will not bother with pine logs with large knots.
Why are you listening to music while working on customer's pieces? Concentrate on what you're doing. Perfection is achieved through attention to detail, not enjoying yourself. That's why they call it work. I worked as a grand master marine tech for 48 years: 5 call backs in all that time. There shouldn't have been any. What does John Deere say in the commercial? "It's not how fast you mow, but how WELL you mow fast".
Operating the sawmill is fun for me, and I want to keep it that way. Cutting dimensional lumber for hours on end is a bit too repetitive, music keeps it interesting and helps me concentrate. Also I usually throw in extras on the customer's order. I rarely get a messed up board due to a wave because I keep my blades as sharp as possible (change out regularly and sharpen) and I keep the machine dialed in.
I just stumbled across your page, gave you a subscribe! I run a Wood-Mizer LX 25. Have only had it one year, had similar issues on my first log. Great advice and tips. Check out my sawmill videos if you have time! Cheers!
Very good advice! Especially when it comes to trying to get every little board out of a log. I used to do that and you’re right it’s not worth it.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video. People who don't cut a lot don't always understand what is and isn't worth it.
Integrity in EVERYTHING we do. Unfortunately few have it anymore. Keep up the good work. In business 21 yrs now.
What you said, "Being respectful to other people" especially your customers.. To me, that that is most important, if a person running a business is disrespectful to me, the 'customer' for no reason I go elsewhere. That business will close, or remain small with few customers in the long run. It don't cost anything to be nice, and it sure builds goodwill and a successful business..
Outstanding video thank you. My sawmill was cutting hourglass shapes into my timbers so that they were about a quarter inch narrower in the middle than the ends and this video was very helpful in diagnosing the problem
I'm glad this video helped out. Trying to keep the channel informational and fun.
@@TCSawmills we’ll it sure helped me and saved me from ruining my logs. Thanks again
@@TCSawmills PS this video was a hell of a lot more helpful than the tech support from the manufacturer!!!!
I have the exact same Timber King saw. I love it, but I have more trouble with the older pine logs.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I've found that extra set in the blade really helps with pine, and spruce. I've also found that extra set doesn't seem to hurt with other woods, like oak etc. So, I just order my blades with 30 thousandths set. 25 thousandths is standard by the way.
Yes that is true, we run around 22 thousandths for all of our blades. I have run different sets before but they tend to get mixed up in the pile if I don't mark properly.
I believe this, the hard knots are the worst for keeping set, and sharpness 👍
I commend you for your work ethics and customer satisfaction !
Proud of ya !
Definitely going to start cutting from the top. I've spent days leveling and tinkering with my new mill only to start getting wavy cuts after 2 passes again. Thanks for the info.
Just today I have cut 6 knotty pine logs everyone was the small end towards the mill head, not a single wave in the boards. The technique really works as long as you have a sharp blade.
Awesome sir that was loaded with some great information
Good advice at the end that applies to almost all businesses
Hi, Nice explanation. A big consideration is the timber and the 'set' on the blade. Assuming the blade is sharp, Green wood tends to 'tear' slightly some timbers Poplar, Willow etc are very soft and do leave a lot of fibres. Blades tend to be made to cope with 'anything' so will have 'maximum set' dry timber cuts with far less tendency to 'tear' as it is 'harder' so a blade with reduces set will cut well without binding. Look at a 'commercial' band mill' the blade is not 1" wide more like 6" to 12" so the cut stabilises the blade whilst the '1" blade is not guided so well so will wander particularly is the feed is too great, folks tend to forget the cutting rate is dependent on several factors, one very important one is the volume of the gullet...when it is full of sawdust it holds the blade off the cutting face, until it can empty, so a wide log will cut much slower as the gullets limit the cut rate, so you need to 'feel' the resistance to the feed to stop 'overfeed'. Lastly consider the amount of wood you are removing, a large set means you are removing a lot of timber, that takes energy, makes more sawdust, and slows the cut rate ( feet/min)
Best info ever . I watched 50 video s so far min... great video
Thanks, I'm trying to make the channel interesting and informative.
One good thing about manual feed sawing verses power feed, I can tell immediately when my blade is going south. And I still prefer to use windshield fluid, just have to crank it up with pine.
Yes, I agree, I started out on a Timberking 1220 and then a Woodmizer LT15. On a manual mill, you are much more aware of your blade performance. The first time I transitioned over to a hydraulic sawmill (TK 1400), I had to really pay attention to my blade performance because you don't feel the resistance through hydraulics.
Great vid. Ive had luck with running dish soap and bar oil mixed in water. The soap suspends the bar oil in the water and seems to really keep the pitch build up down.
I'll have to check that out. I recently ran diesel for a bit as I cut some very hard long leaf pine. It was the only thing I could use due to build-up on the blade.
Wow! A lot of good info here, thanks for sharing. 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed, there are a few more videos I am working on going over head and frame alignment. There are so many factors that can make good and bad lumber.
Good video. Some good advice too. Especially regarding knotty stuff . I’ll heat my house next winter with that stuff. Thank you
When a saw cuts as yours did, it called “snaking”. Thirty yrs as a saw filer is how I know.
Had this problem at first. Great video.
Tom If you want to cut straight
Set the down pressure at 1/4" not 1/8", way straighter. That's the first thing I did when I got my TK
Use 4 degree hook angle rather than 10 degree, way straighter and cut straighter longer
A little overset in pine, especially in dry pine
You shouldn't need to baby the feed rate
Keep the blade clean
Thanks for the info. Most all my blades are at 8 degrees now and I have 6 degrees for the hard stuff. I've been wanting to try 4 degrees. I'm going to pass onto my buddy as well about the 1/4" down on guides. He's been cutting some logs from a customer that are supper knotty and having some issues keeping the blade flat.
@@TCSawmills
Knotty pine can be tough . If you blade is diving that bad I would check your drive belt tension . I struggled with that issue .
I run an LT50 and we run a lot more blade tension than you are using . Close to 3000 psi .
Maybe this can help . Thanks for the videos .
I'm currently running 1.25" blades if I go to the 1.5" blades I would run a lot more pressure. I don't get dives very often but when I do it's typically in pine with a lot of pitch or knots. It also happens after a nail strike, 😆. I and going to be doing a video sometime this summer going over different blade types (thickness, widths, pressures, hook angle, tooth spacing etc). Thanks for the comment and happy sawing.
@@TCSawmills Good info I have a harbor freight sawmill and it’s always a dull blade for me, anyone with the same mill please remember to lock carriage after setting depth something I kept forgetting to do till I saw the engine actually move when the blade dipped
@@TCSawmills I run 1 1/4 blades too . I find I can cut flatter with 10 deg blades in bad stuff because it causes me to slow down a touch . I usually run a 7 deg for most wood and push it to the limit .
I've went to diesel on pine. It keeps everything clean on the machine. I just had to much pitch or pine tar build up on the guide wheels and blade. One drop per second.
Tooth sets effects blade travel, tracking, I don’t no much about timber kings👍thanks! Is it auto feed? Using just water - dish soap. I was told to saw to start on the worst side of the log. Knots, knots, knots. You can base your speed from the start cuts.
You are correct cut the small end first a more aggressive cut into the knots.
I rent a friends woodmiser lt 15 wide and when I'm done getting what I need for a cut list
and there is more log left I cut the rest at 3" because that is what my tablesaw can handle
to resaw that down to. Nothing is prettier than clear Fir or Larch 30" dia.
Ur Videos are always welcome and we'll made.
I have learned a lot of them.
Thanks
But here in Germany I run a woodmizer LT 40 super hydraulic.
Have a great day
Thank you for the kind words, the LT40 is a great mill too. My buddy Mr.Robert has run a few of them over past 30 or more years. I'll have a video out on one in the upcoming months.
@@TCSawmills I am really looking forward to see it.
Thats me down to a toothpick i picked up a little pc of reclaimed pine from the cutoff box the other day & started carving a little bird. Historical windows & doors my job
Great video brother!
I've definitely noticed the pitch buildup with older logs. I normally run a heavey soap solution but next time I run into a pitch problem, I'm gonna try deisel fuel.
Diesel is the trick on those pine logs loaded with pitch. Just a drip every second works and lasts a long time.
G'day Tom, I always grade down not up, gravity is also not helping.
To clean my blades I really like using Dawn soap liberally in my water and when I get a lot of build up I hit the blade with a wire brush while its running with the water and that works really well for me.. Huge decrease in the wavy cuts for me!
My sawmill isn’t perfectly level, it has a slight downhill grade that kinda aids in the unit sawing… it is however perfectly flat… I assume this is okay?
Yes, you should be good. I have set up at a job site before that had a rather large slope to property. Same thing as you are describing, I was good left to right and the frame was straight down the length of the tracks but there was a slope from the back of the sawmill to the front. It worked well with no issues.
Enjoyed the video. Thank you. New sub. Older LT30HD (hydraulic) Wood-Mizer. I like your take on things. Your new friend in northwest Georgia USA.
I would like to see how your drive is run from motor to blade pulley. I see on your 2220 mill you drive belt can’t be seen. I have a 1600 and my drive belt can be seen and it does keep me from cutting the full depth of cut to the shield
I will do a short video on that this week.
Here's the video on the design of the tensioner. th-cam.com/video/CkdgAHIo99w/w-d-xo.html
Just throwing spitballs here, but maybe when cutting mega-knotty pine putting more set in the blade might help? Just a thought.
New wood mizer lt 40 use 3200-3300PSI blade tension and the old lt40s from the 1990s use 2200-2300 PSI blade tension. The main difference in tension is due to mill rigidity.
We have an upcoming video going over gauge pressure on the sawmill vs actual blade tension. This will go over various sawmill manufacturers and what they recommend on the gauge and how that compares amongst the various sawmills. We have some very interesting data to share.
Usually loose blade or something else allowing wheels or frame shifting. Loose bolts blade guides bearing bad
Watched everything thanks for sharing. I will turn the log around now one end looks like an onion bulb
Thank you . Great video !
👍❤🇨🇦
Thank you for the kind words
Every 2 years take the guide wheels to a machine shop and have the blade area re surfaced in a lathe using carbide. Only take a few thousands off or just enough to make them flat.
Using the level / straight edge on a new blade, the level is just a straight edge not looking at the bubble, do it over a another level / straight edge 6 feet long, spanning 3-4 bunks and measure between levels @ around 12 inches apart , you may need to file or grind the sides of each level to a knife edge at the measuring points for the best readings.Dead on is best +- 1/32 will work. Check the level with the guide rollers wide open and check the near and far side with out moving the saw head.You may need to adjust the saw head for level also doing this. Then do it in 3 sections of the mill bed to check the bunks also. Give yourself a few hours to make this important adjustment.
Open the logs with a used blade and change to a new blade for the money cuts. Pine knots will cut flatter with a 7 degree tooth blade. I run a woodmizer LT 40 super hydraulic, 50 HP Cat Diesel, 8000 hrs.
Very good!! What about the angle of theeth?? 7 degrees in hard wood instead of 10 makes a hudge difference and it works well for me.
Yes in harder woods I use 6 degrees and most everything else I do 8 degrees. I have not cut frozen logs before but I've heard that some people use 4 degrees. As you decrease the angle your cutting speed slows.
@@TCSawmills Yes you decrease the speed but the blade like it. It goes straight and clean with less weaving.
I have the same problem with Larch... very pitchy wood.. If I open up a Larch and find large pitch pockets it goes for firewood!
Agree with you 100%... some logs just ain't worth it!
Good info, enjoyed the video
Thanks
I am running into this same issue, blade is sharp cribs are lvl blades lvl but I did notice a drive belt seemed to be loose while running but seems tight while sitting which is odd
If you're cutting any wood with pitch, try a half a cup of pine sol in your water, it helps a lot, but don't use anything that is corrosive.
After you adjust your guides. Check the flatness of the blade. Place a razor blade across the blade in between the guides. You'll be able to see if there is a hump or a gap. I'd say that you have to much of a gap causing the blade to rise at first then dive.
My blade is cupped between the guides, how would I fix this? Lower the guides?
@@jackslumber1891 do you have roller guides? If so make sure the blade is flat. Put some down pressure on the blade with your guides. Around 1/8" but no more than 1/4". Make sure the blade is parallel with the log bed.
@@mgbill793 I don’t have roller guides, my sawmill has graphite pads. My blades are about 5” wide and I can clearly see a gap between the pads and blade. I have been fiddling with it today but will try some more deflection tomorrow and see if that helps. Just been reading on forums that you can get blades rolled flat so that might be something to try too.
Thanks for your help!
After many years of sharpening blXes fur my mill and many other people I have found you need .ofr set in the blade when you are sawing aged pine logs. If you want to send me one I will set it up to saw gef pine logs. Thank you joel Weston
9 x.out.10. bjade rise when entering a cut is caused by the drive belt not hAving enough tension on it that is the first thinv that I check when I'm having troue with the blades rising in the cut then leveling off though out tbe remainder of the cut.
Yellow Pine in the south is plentiful so its cut more than anything else.. I agree Pine in a pine in the butt but i found running dish washing soap in the water prevents the sap from sticking so bad..
Hello, I am trying to cut a 18 inch yellow birch which is full of knots but it is absolutely beautiful. My blade keeps going upwards even after attempting to solve the issue. It is possible the sawmill is just incapable of sawing the log?
I wouldn't think so, if it's going up there are a few things that could be off. Sharpness is a big factor along with proper set. What types of guides do you have? Rollers? If they aren't set correctly your blade could travel more that it should. Also tension could be an issue. Also if it's a large tree engine rpm could play a part, you should keep the loading of the engine constant but controlling speed of cut. How big is the diameter of the tree and what type of sawmill?
I watched your video and listened to everything you said. What I saw was too much buildup on the blade and tires. Looking at your water nozzle before you wiped it off there was too much build up.
Your not running enough water to keep your blade lubricated. It's getting too hot during the cuts. More lubrication keeps the blade cool and it will not be as influenced by the grain. It will stay sharper longer!
I would bump the tension up a little at a time and see if that doesn't improve your cuts as well.
Lube the heck out of that blade though!
use diesel fuel instead of water when cutting sappy wood
Yes, I have run diesel before but free water collected off my roof is hard to beat. I will add pine sol or soap to help cut down pitch.
if your not setting the teeth every time u sharpening they will not cut straight. I've sawing for 30 years I went through that years ago . try that sense I do that dont have any problems
WD-40 sprayed on the roller while the blade is running helps wick the sap right off the blade and the rollers.
I'm testing out a new system similar to the wiper system that cooks has. I either run diesel or biolube through it. It has been working great.
Use diesel fuel in your lubrication tank to combat the pine pitch. You can even blend it with oil 50/50.
Instead of water try drip small amounts of diesel on it and it will keep the pine sap buildup slicked off the blade
We had that on our cooks mill. I will add something to the Timberking mills soon
The issue seems to be exclusive to mainly pitch pine(southern yellow pine), the pitch buildup causes all types of issues w/ the band blades as you have identified. You can increase down pressure on the guides, use diesel or pine sol for cutting fluid, etc but truthfully, bandsaws suck at cutting yellow pine w/ heavy pitch. I actually had a log pile of older growth yellow pine logs that could not be cut on the bandsaw, period, instant pitch build up, instant blade dive. Keep in mind the is on a TK2400. I ended up buying a circular sawmill to run beside the band mill, it cuts pitch pine & knotty pine like butter and production is double the board footage on square edge/dimensional lumber and lumber is always straight, no blade diving frustrations. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for this and you are exactly right, my buddy has a swing blade and he said same thing. Every mill has its pros and cons. I have not personally run a circle saw but hope to one day.
Do you recommend tilting your roller guides so they angle down 1/16"?
I have down pressure on my guide rollers but I level the blade out as close to zero as I can. Therefore theoretically my guide rollers are level too.
Great advice!
Thanks
very good info thank you
Thanks for watching
Great video, 👍👍👍🍺🍺👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed
I slow down my cut, and the problem gets very minimized.
What do you do with all your sawdust?
I run 3000 psi. Woodmizer lt40 super Diesel.
Very helpful thanks
When you get into a lot of pitch, Spray some WD40 on your blade when it's running. Try it you will like the result..
I have done that as well as some other oil based products, it definitely helps. My buddy wants me to run diesel, I just can't do that. It would be just one more tank I'd have to fill.
I from india
Nice video I just like saw mile
I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Hi! Could anybody tell me how I can put on the right level the blade? I have a wheel's sowmill ...I need help please....
don't you have to set the blade at a certain pressure and maybe you have to reset the tooth on the blade to a finer setting after you have sharpened the blade
We check the set on a cooks dual tooth setter. We set around .022" to .025" on each tooth every time. It's been the ticket for me for years. On really soft wood I have set it to .030" but only a few times. Our process on every blade is clean the blade, set the blade then sharpen.
Naughty wood is hard to deal with.
Exactly, hard to explain unless you've cut it before. Southern yellow pine can be very challenging to cut at times.
I recommend use diesel as lube instead of water. Diesel will keep your blade clean and slick while only using 1/4 the volume of lube.
Gemma King
my owners manual specifically says not to use anything petroleum based as blade lube. I am assuming that it degrade the drive bands
It does break down the belts prematurely, however I only run a diesel drip when the pitch build-up is excessive. Once I'm done cutting the pitchy stuff I switch back to water. So little to no impact.
@@andybayliss2020 I have not noticed any degrading of my band wheel belts. The saw gets a little oily with the diesel is all.
I did install a lubemizer system, so I only use maby a gallon or so per day of diesel cutting lumber. I wad having extreme blade wear in cutting standing dead burr oak due to large amount of sand inbedded in the logs. Switching from water mixed with soap and vegetable oil to diesel extended my blade life significantly and keeps my blades perfectly clean.
Thank you!
Thanks
If the drive belt slips and the blade changes speed this will happen. Blade tension, more is better. Ad some Pine Sol to the water,
I've never had the triple wide drive belt slip, even when the log bows in the middle and point loades the ends as the blade goes through. It will drastically lower engine rpm until it cuts through. I've also not noticed any slippage between the wheel belts and the blade, but I'll have to check for that going forward. I keep pretty good belts on and have a decent crown on them. When they flatten out I replace them. In this instance my blade was up and down based on the fact that it was very dull and there were harder knots in the surrounding softer wood. I was out of pinesol for this video but I typically run it in wood that's full of pitch.
A Level ? Is that really how it works ? I don't know about how timber king dose it, but level has nothing to do with it, on a Wood-Mizer or Cooks sawmill ? I am just asking, not trying to be a smart@##. Great video but not sure about the level thing ?
I only check it if I have a problem, I have only had to make one adjustment in 265 hrs of running the sawmill and that was caused by me having to remove the bearing for maintenance.
They make a blade level and I check mine about every 500 / 600 hrs and it needsto be perfectly level. And run diesel and trans fluid mix never have issues with pitch
Using the level is fine,, but I always move the mill forward & back & check the front & rear of the level over each bunk. Then, it doesn't matter if the mill/ track is level or not,, Right? ;>) My old Mark 4 mill has oak bunks on it & the middle bunks wear out way before the ends. Another reason to check the blade to bunk relationship. Just saying.
Great video partner!
you probably know, but the set of the teeth will throw the level reading off.
Save the knots for firewood :)
I have a pile of lighter wood to use as fire starter 🔥
No, get your mill to saw them straight
@@oliverm5sc unless you have a market for knotty lumber, why bother?
@@gsmscrazycanuck9814
Ever hear of knotty pine wall paneling, no way could every pine log sawed have no knots, With the right blade and the mill set up right my mill saws straight through knots with no problem
@@oliverm5sc I have knotty pine in my house. It has very small knots. If you want to make knotty pine lumber, go ahead. If I have a market for other types of lumber, I will not bother with pine logs with large knots.
Does anyone know what he charges per BD/FT?
More blade tension, more lubrication
Why are you listening to music while working on customer's pieces? Concentrate on what you're doing. Perfection is achieved through attention to detail, not enjoying yourself. That's why they call it work. I worked as a grand master marine tech for 48 years: 5 call backs in all that time. There shouldn't have been any. What does John Deere say in the commercial? "It's not how fast you mow, but how WELL you mow fast".
Operating the sawmill is fun for me, and I want to keep it that way. Cutting dimensional lumber for hours on end is a bit too repetitive, music keeps it interesting and helps me concentrate. Also I usually throw in extras on the customer's order. I rarely get a messed up board due to a wave because I keep my blades as sharp as possible (change out regularly and sharpen) and I keep the machine dialed in.
wavy cut surface footage is too high.
Blade tension and dull blade ,,,,,
It's not that the blade not sharp.... it cus you lost the lead on the blade
Use diesel for your lube .
I just stumbled across your page, gave you a subscribe! I run a Wood-Mizer LX 25. Have only had it one year, had similar issues on my first log. Great advice and tips. Check out my sawmill videos if you have time! Cheers!
Ummmmm that’s flat problems not straight problems!
Nope it's a southern yellow pine knot that caused the dip. My mill is dialed in and cuts very true.
And,,,,,cut at a slower speed
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