My GM was doing the same thing, pressure switch was going bad. $13 at Oreilly. I diagnosed it with my $0 hand scan tool, I wiggled it and got it to replicate the problem.
13:23 just about anyone can replace an AC compressor, alternator, starter, etc. Getting the correct diagnosis in the first place is a different story, this is what I am here for. Excellent! Thanks for the tips and tricks.
Yea, thats most likely why there is 300k on it originally! I'm here solving the same issue though I'm only at 225k on my 2000 Silverado, replaced the switch on the dryer already since it was original and didn't cost but $20. My problem still exists though and it quits blowing cold and doesn't get cold again unless i shut truck off and it resets system!
Damn. 300,000+ miles on Chevy compressor! They just don't build them like they used to! You absolutely wont find a newer Chevy that will last that long. Ive replaced several that took a turn south before even making it to 100,000. Nice diag. That's exactly how I would have done it. Love the channel!
Finally, a video that pertains to my issue... somewhat. My AC sometimes works. And sometimes it blows "cool" but not cold. Now I'm starting to think its the compressor clutch, especially with 282,000 miles.
Very insightful on the Intermittent problem. Have a 06 Chevy Silverado that has just begun with this intermittent on/ off crapola 😡🤬 guess it’s time to visit my own mechanic extrodinaire 🤬
Sometimes they’ll do that when the clutch gap has become too large from wear. Most of those Chevy trucks you can get some more life out of the compressor if you take off the front plate on the clutch and remove the spacer behind it. You can do it without removing the compressor too.
@@WizzRacing there is no way to know that without testing it while it was failing. The magnet gets weaker with heat and when the compressor cycles off and back on its not strong enough to close the gap. A bump or vibration can give it the little extra help it needs. To say definitely that they could windings failed when hot when they were never tested under the failed condition is pure speculation. It happens but I’ve had dozens of these trucks over the years in the shop fail this way and I’ve help customers who couldn’t afford getting the compressor replaced get by with just setting the gap on the clutch.
@@Jpilgrim30 You can test the coil. Just put an ohm meter on it.. And no setting the Air Gap does not fix it..As it uses a washer. If the Clutch is wore down that far. It needs to get replaced anyways. So why waste all that Freon. Time and Labor. To only have it come back for a failed Clutch.. Just replace the whole unit..
Great video, Eric! In my experience, buying a complete compressor (with AC clutch coil) is almost the same price as buying just the coil itself. Doesn't really make much sense nowadays to not replace the compressor itself.
You are the Man! That's exactly what's happening to my 2014 Chevy Express van. But my fan turns completely off for about 10 to 15 seconds. Then blast back on 🤔
Great video! I just the A/C components in my 2002 GMC Sierra 1500HD SLE Crewcab. Had the system vacuumed/recharged before and after removing/replacing the A/C parts. Passed the leak test as well. The issue I have is with the A/C condenser fan that short cycles. Can you tell why it does that and how to fix it?
I had this issue in a 2005 chevy silverado. One of the radiator fan relays had a poor connection. So driving the ac would turn off from regular bumps or stop and go. When the ac is on both fans should be on or on another car something easy to check. Press down on the relays see if one or both fans come on with ac on
Intermittent failing clutch is diagnosed with amp probe in addition to things that were verified on this vehicle. The clutch gap was wide on the compressor as it was visible when he showed the old compressor. Wide clutch gap would still give amp draw of 2.5-4.5 A where failed mag winding would drop amperage to 0. If you don’t have amp probe you let it quit cooling and the safely tap clutch plate to see if bumping it allows engagement. With wide gap the reduced strength of hotter winding is too weak to pull clutch plate into pulley plate and the bump will do it. Windings can have a short (very rare) and do the initial function and then quit but usually these blow a fuse as the current draw goes up. With 300 K miles a new compressor was a good idea anyway.
Front brakes, 4 struts, compressor and some other AC components all in a day? Hats off to you, that’s a lot of work! Were those complete struts or just the struts themselves?
Man thank you so much bro this is exactly what going on with my truck bro I've been taking it to a couple of people and the tell me different things. Thank again man
Very good diag. Intermittents can be a p.i.t.a., especially when they're extremely intermittent. Putting the system under load helps to locate it more quickly like you did. Hot weather helps also. You had the shop recover the freon. Did they put it in a container for you to reuse, or did you give it to the shop and you used new freon?
You pull a vacuum to empty the lines of Air / Oxygen & Moisture / Humidity so the Refrigerant (Freon) is more efficient and the AC cools better. After pulling the vacuum shut the valves and make sure the needles hold steady ( 20 minutes) to verify there are no leaks before charging the system. Finally, purge the air in the supply line before releasing the Freon into the system.
Eric, when did you record this? The tag sticker on the window shows 2014. Are the tags that old? Good vid, again. Good process figuring out the issue. 🤘
got the same truck, would have loved to see what lowside pressure you ended up when all was added ias as i have to do a similar job on my truck. i know it is realated to outside temp but I always struggle with the pressures.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500 with a 6.0. A/C works good as long as your running. Then if I stop for a series of traffic lights it starts to blow out warm air. Cost wise what do you guys get for a job like you did parts and labor?
What he was trying to say is that before you break the lines lose rather than releasing the Freon into the Atmosphere go to a bigger shop that has the special equipment that can recover and recycle the Freon to protect the OZONE layer and also comply with EPA Rules. That is was a Pro A/C mechanic does.
Ozone layer is milarky bud. Same way they want powers to govern over medical emergency is the same plot to take our freedoms and not give them back under the guise of climate, it's all bullshit they are just priming you to take the bait before they even throw it😂
Just a fyi, you can remove the clutch shoe from the pulley by removing the center bolt and remove a shim or two to reduce the amount of air gap between the shoe and the pulley and it will continue to work for a long time until wear creates another large air gap. When we had these come into the shop, we would bump the front of the shoe with a long pry bar while running to see if it would engage from the magnetic coil to prove if it was just too much air gap due to wear. Quick and easy fix.
Wait, you took this truck out on two separate drive trials trying to diagnose the AC and you didn't discover that the rotors were warped until you took off the wheels? I've never discovered warped rotors by looking at them.
"really warped" rotors - would of felt pulsating in the brake pedal, shake in steering wheel, or both. All that money into the thing and check engine light still on. Car shield would tell you your heading towards more serious problems than the A/C not working properly.
You can also find the cause with the ac compressor clutch. If it has a field coil that opens within itself, there may be an updated field coil to solve the issue. You could check service bulletins and find the part number that stays fixed and doesn't fail again. Two ways to look at it. When it's an aged system, the improver coil may be in the parts kit and save money by not having a later failure unrelated to this repair. A lower mileage truck with warranty would just need the field coil. That how they would be required to approach it in most cases. No interruption to the system, just the engagement being corrected.
Hello,, I'm little perplexed.. I am currently looking to help a neighbor with his Chevy Sub 1500LS A/C.. and I was trying to find the two ports ar which the red and blue hoses connect to. I'm perplexed bcuz I am seeing your red hose connected to "the coolant reservoir??? Is that the location? I can't seem to find it. Can you explain where the high side port is? Thx.
@@iiro173 the orifice tube is designed to block the Hi pressure side of the AC system to create an expansion of the high pressure liquid pumped up side from the compressor to convert to a controlled gas to the low pressure side of the system so that the cold expanded gas will travel through the evaporater to draw and absorb all the heat from the inside of the vehicle.
I replaced my clutch coil.. it engaged after I installed it.. the next day I started the car and the clutch would not engage.. also the fan connected to the pressure switch.. will a loss of pressure keep these components from working.. I suspect low pressure via leak?
Do you think this can be causing my door blend actuators not to get any power at all ? My truck only blows warm air no cold at all it’s an 03 Silverado 1500
Where are you located? I desperately need to get my ac fixed and I simply do not have the time, tools, or experience to do the job myself unfortunately. You wouldn't happen to be near the Houston area would you?
Why does the AC cooling goes down while tahoe is at very low speed or in nutral? Is there to deal with it? In Dubai its very very hot in summer, with a black tahoe, i avoid driving her in day time un summer and use my sequoia instead!
Have a similar problem 04 silverado. A/C comes on drive a few miles then HOT air blows from the 2 drivers side vents but the passenger side vents stay cold. Shut the trk down & restart it works fine ??
Man, that truck is a mobile trash can, and what's up with the roof liner ? With regards to the fix and several rides with the scan tools hooked up... why wouldn't you apply a known good 12v power right at the clutch in order to verify clutch operation immediately, then work back from there if need be ? I like your videos, please keep 'em coming.
Why did you remove fender liner / under the truck etc? I just did the same job and never did that.. I took it all out the top. I got the bolts loose, connector plugs and removed from the top, no under truck necessary. I did have to swap the sensor in the rear of the compressor, the aftermarket one did not have the sensor. Good job though.
I had something similar happen with my 2001 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab 4x4 Z71, I left my truck idling with A/C on and went into store and came out 10-15 minutes later it was blowing HOT air out the vents and the interior temp was extremely high inside the truck, even with the A/C still suppose to be on, however the A/C never stops working while truck is moving and is cold as hell...?
Way better video than most. You speak fluently without a lot of ers and ums. Thank you.
My GM was doing the same thing, pressure switch was going bad. $13 at Oreilly. I diagnosed it with my $0 hand scan tool, I wiggled it and got it to replicate the problem.
13:23 just about anyone can replace an AC compressor, alternator, starter, etc. Getting the correct diagnosis in the first place is a different story, this is what I am here for.
Excellent! Thanks for the tips and tricks.
fire the parts cannon
Like Ivan @ PHAD always says, you have to be 110% sure before replacing parts. Good job Eric in proving the problem.
Yup, just like Eric O at SMA. These pros rarely fire the parts cannon.
Bro said it was the clutch and then replaced the whole compressor, etc ,etc… seems unnecessary.
You gotta love customers that understand the importance of getting other work done when it's there and apart at your fingertips.
Yea, thats most likely why there is 300k on it originally! I'm here solving the same issue though I'm only at 225k on my 2000 Silverado, replaced the switch on the dryer already since it was original and didn't cost but $20. My problem still exists though and it quits blowing cold and doesn't get cold again unless i shut truck off and it resets system!
This isn't a duct actuator issue is it?@@randydarby2340
Great concise video that explained why my 2004 GMC Sierra A/C would stop blowing cold air. THANK YOU!
Damn. 300,000+ miles on Chevy compressor! They just don't build them like they used to! You absolutely wont find a newer Chevy that will last that long. Ive replaced several that took a turn south before even making it to 100,000. Nice diag. That's exactly how I would have done it. Love the channel!
Just hit 300k guess that's why my a/c died 😂
The amount of knowledge I gain from this channel !!!Thanks for videos. They’ve taught me alot. 👌👌
The corridors part was so funny lmfaoo keep up the good work !
Sometimes its the thermal fuse link inside the clutch coil that gives you this problem , good to see you up getting back on it again
Finally, a video that pertains to my issue... somewhat. My AC sometimes works. And sometimes it blows "cool" but not cold. Now I'm starting to think its the compressor clutch, especially with 282,000 miles.
I like your way of diagnose the problem.
Very insightful on the Intermittent problem. Have a 06 Chevy Silverado that has just begun with this intermittent on/ off crapola 😡🤬 guess it’s time to visit my own mechanic extrodinaire 🤬
Your videos are always right to the point. Thanks so much for making this, I really enjoy them
Great diagnosis. Being a DIY guy, always an informative watch!!
Bro you are awesome mechanic. You Eric O, Alex I think name is, put out some of the best car repair videos. Thank again.
Sometimes they’ll do that when the clutch gap has become too large from wear. Most of those Chevy trucks you can get some more life out of the compressor if you take off the front plate on the clutch and remove the spacer behind it. You can do it without removing the compressor too.
🤔
See EricO at South Main Auto how to test and then repair the clutch.
Setting the Air Gap would not have fixed this issue. As it did work. The Coil was simply breaking down once it got hot..
@@WizzRacing there is no way to know that without testing it while it was failing. The magnet gets weaker with heat and when the compressor cycles off and back on its not strong enough to close the gap. A bump or vibration can give it the little extra help it needs. To say definitely that they could windings failed when hot when they were never tested under the failed condition is pure speculation. It happens but I’ve had dozens of these trucks over the years in the shop fail this way and I’ve help customers who couldn’t afford getting the compressor replaced get by with just setting the gap on the clutch.
@@Jpilgrim30 You can test the coil. Just put an ohm meter on it..
And no setting the Air Gap does not fix it..As it uses a washer. If the Clutch is wore down that far. It needs to get replaced anyways. So why waste all that Freon. Time and Labor. To only have it come back for a failed Clutch..
Just replace the whole unit..
Puro pinche corridos ALV 🎶 Viva Mexico Cabrones!!!
My favorite automotive TH-cam content creators gotta support raza
HEEEEKKKKTTTOOOORRR!!! Good to see you supporting another great mechanic like yourself my man.
Great video, Eric! In my experience, buying a complete compressor (with AC clutch coil) is almost the same price as buying just the coil itself. Doesn't really make much sense nowadays to not replace the compressor itself.
331k miles on the odo is what impressed me.
GREAT job Eric. I did find it educational. Enjoy
ERIC, great approach to diagnosing this truck by using the scanner and looking at data always good info thanks for sharing.
2:00 Bro you gotta do that speed lapse & good music at nighttime with the dash lights at max bright next time! Good vid man.
Good job !! From Sarasota, Florida !! Were the best never Rest!
Keep your very informative content coming and blast them corridos.
You are the Man! That's exactly what's happening to my 2014 Chevy Express van. But my fan turns completely off for about 10 to 15 seconds. Then blast back on 🤔
Thanks Eric, for another awesome video!!
Great video! I just the A/C components in my 2002 GMC Sierra 1500HD SLE Crewcab. Had the system vacuumed/recharged before and after removing/replacing the A/C parts. Passed the leak test as well. The issue I have is with the A/C condenser fan that short cycles. Can you tell why it does that and how to fix it?
Thank u for directions on the live data, A.L.A u are too much, lovely job meeeiiiinnnn. Habib Auto all day way from Ghana West Africa
I had this issue in a 2005 chevy silverado. One of the radiator fan relays had a poor connection. So driving the ac would turn off from regular bumps or stop and go. When the ac is on both fans should be on or on another car something easy to check. Press down on the relays see if one or both fans come on with ac on
I am hoping this is my issue
Super helpful video i have the same truck same problem 👍 Ty
1yr old compressor
no leaks
good psi
Amazing man ! I'm gaining so much diagnostic knowledge thanks man I appreciate it 🙏
Intermittent failing clutch is diagnosed with amp probe in addition to things that were verified on this vehicle. The clutch gap was wide on the compressor as it was visible when he showed the old compressor. Wide clutch gap would still give amp draw of 2.5-4.5 A where failed mag winding would drop amperage to 0. If you don’t have amp probe you let it quit cooling and the safely tap clutch plate to see if bumping it allows engagement. With wide gap the reduced strength of hotter winding is too weak to pull clutch plate into pulley plate and the bump will do it. Windings can have a short (very rare) and do the initial function and then quit but usually these blow a fuse as the current draw goes up. With 300 K miles a new compressor was a good idea anyway.
Respect to the mechanic
Front brakes, 4 struts, compressor and some other AC components all in a day? Hats off to you, that’s a lot of work! Were those complete struts or just the struts themselves?
Man man man ... you are the man ...Thanks bro
You can recover the refrigerant with a recovery tank dipped into an ice bath works really well
Man thank you so much bro this is exactly what going on with my truck bro I've been taking it to a couple of people and the tell me different things. Thank again man
Great diagnostic video...
I've had this problem with compressors like this, you snap the gas wot and the compressor kicks in again. why ? Great diagnosis.
Most ac systems are designed to disengage the clutch during WOT
@@barstadryan Honda does that as well save the hp on WOT
Your a smart dude bro,Love your channel
Great video Eric. Thanks for sharing.
Summer is here baby🔥
Very good diag. Intermittents can be a p.i.t.a., especially when they're extremely intermittent. Putting the system under load helps to locate it more quickly like you did. Hot weather helps also. You had the shop recover the freon. Did they put it in a container for you to reuse, or did you give it to the shop and you used new freon?
Cool vid bro Thanks. Greetings from Texas.
You pull a vacuum to empty the lines of Air / Oxygen & Moisture / Humidity so the Refrigerant (Freon) is more efficient and the AC cools better. After pulling the vacuum shut the valves and make sure the needles hold steady ( 20 minutes) to verify there are no leaks before charging the system. Finally, purge the air in the supply line before releasing the Freon into the system.
Like#125
Thanks for the video!
Life is a learning curve!
HINDSIGHT is 20-15!
Thanks for sharing Eric... Cheers.
Greate video , well explained !!
The hotter it gets the less the magnetism is the air gap might be to great on the clutch just a quess ty nice vidio
Great job
Eric, when did you record this? The tag sticker on the window shows 2014. Are the tags that old? Good vid, again. Good process figuring out the issue. 🤘
@@crisprtalk6963
Nope, it's a state tag sticker. I'm in TX. That reads 06 of 14.
Good job on the video, very informative.
got the same truck, would have loved to see what lowside pressure you ended up when all was added ias as i have to do a similar job on my truck. i know it is realated to outside temp but I always struggle with the pressures.
VANTASTIC video!!!! THANKS!!
Still an auto genius
a mi también me gustó lo de los corridos. saludos desde el valle
Good job bro, always love your videos🤙
I really love your channel
Always Entertaining and Informative my friend!
GREAT VIDEO BOSS👍👍👍👍
thanks again Eric
Very nicely done video
Thanks for the video. I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 2500 with a 6.0.
A/C works good as long as your running. Then if I stop for a series of traffic lights it starts to blow out warm air. Cost wise what do you guys get for a job like you did parts and labor?
Once you crack the lines the pressure AND the vacuum are lost - So how is it that you can replace the compressor without losing your vacuum?
Eric that background music did not sound like CORRIDOS! Jaja
What he was trying to say is that before you break the lines lose rather than releasing the Freon into the Atmosphere go to a bigger shop that has the special equipment that can recover and recycle the Freon to protect the OZONE layer and also comply with EPA Rules. That is was a Pro A/C mechanic does.
Ozone layer is milarky bud. Same way they want powers to govern over medical emergency is the same plot to take our freedoms and not give them back under the guise of climate, it's all bullshit they are just priming you to take the bait before they even throw it😂
Thinking about buying scan tool X431 Launch or Thinktool Pro.Do a lot diagnosis like yourself which one do you recommend.
The Pro has a link in the description
Just a fyi, you can remove the clutch shoe from the pulley by removing the center bolt and remove a shim or two to reduce the amount of air gap between the shoe and the pulley and it will continue to work for a long time until wear creates another large air gap. When we had these come into the shop, we would bump the front of the shoe with a long pry bar while running to see if it would engage from the magnetic coil to prove if it was just too much air gap due to wear. Quick and easy fix.
Wait, you took this truck out on two separate drive trials trying to diagnose the AC and you didn't discover that the rotors were warped until you took off the wheels? I've never discovered warped rotors by looking at them.
"really warped" rotors - would of felt pulsating in the brake pedal, shake in steering wheel, or both. All that money into the thing and check engine light still on. Car shield would tell you your heading towards more serious problems than the A/C not working properly.
Hi eric i have a question for you . how did you flush the AC lines make a video thank you
Probably could've reset air gap and would've been OK but 330K is a lot of wear on that compressor. Great job.
Good job Cheers
Do you have a link to the kit you bought?
I wrk from my home as well,what do u charge for labor being at home versus going out mobile
Great work, did you check the MIL light? Or is that extra $, just curious...
Amazing video man keep them coming 👍
It's a 13 min video uploaded 4 min ago.
How do you know?
lol
You can also find the cause with the ac compressor clutch.
If it has a field coil that opens within itself, there may be an updated field coil to solve the issue.
You could check service bulletins and find the part number that stays fixed and doesn't fail again.
Two ways to look at it.
When it's an aged system, the improver coil may be in the parts kit and save money by not having a later failure unrelated to this repair.
A lower mileage truck with warranty would just need the field coil. That how they would be required to approach it in most cases.
No interruption to the system, just the engagement being corrected.
Hello,, I'm little perplexed.. I am currently looking to help a neighbor with his Chevy Sub 1500LS A/C.. and I was trying to find the two ports ar which the red and blue hoses connect to. I'm perplexed bcuz I am seeing your red hose connected to "the coolant reservoir??? Is that the location? I can't seem to find it. Can you explain where the high side port is? Thx.
Is that Willowbrook area?
Where are you located? I'm having the exact same problem.
What is that small new part orfis? Something like that?
Really nice diagnos 👍
Orifice tube. Thanks for watching!
What its for orifice tube? Like what is doing?
@@iiro173 the orifice tube is designed to block the Hi pressure side of the AC system to create an expansion of the high pressure liquid pumped up side from the compressor to convert to a controlled gas to the low pressure side of the system so that the cold expanded gas will travel through the evaporater to draw and absorb all the heat from the inside of the vehicle.
@@bigbearvenom6145 okay now i understand why its so importante Change like dryer too 🙏 thank you 👍
Another solid video. Didn't you own an AC machine at your shop?
Yes. I sure do miss that machine.
I replaced my clutch coil.. it engaged after I installed it.. the next day I started the car and the clutch would not engage.. also the fan connected to the pressure switch.. will a loss of pressure keep these components from working.. I suspect low pressure via leak?
Just out of curiosity, how many different scan tools do you have?
are you in texas? would love to have you look at my tundra
What party of Texas are you located in?
Do you think this can be causing my door blend actuators not to get any power at all ? My truck only blows warm air no cold at all it’s an 03 Silverado 1500
Were are you located? I have a 2002 chevy avalamche that I will like to fix the A/c
Where are you located? I desperately need to get my ac fixed and I simply do not have the time, tools, or experience to do the job myself unfortunately. You wouldn't happen to be near the Houston area would you?
Where are you located in Texas ?
Sukses selalu lanjut good
Muy Bien... gracias
Great work
Why does the AC cooling goes down while tahoe is at very low speed or in nutral? Is there to deal with it? In Dubai its very very hot in summer, with a black tahoe, i avoid driving her in day time un summer and use my sequoia instead!
Have a similar problem 04 silverado. A/C comes on drive a few miles then HOT air blows from the 2 drivers side vents but the passenger side vents stay cold. Shut the trk down & restart it works fine ??
Man, that truck is a mobile trash can, and what's up with the roof liner ? With regards to the fix and several rides with the scan tools hooked up... why wouldn't you apply a known good 12v power right at the clutch in order to verify clutch operation immediately, then work back from there if need be ? I like your videos, please keep 'em coming.
Yeah, it was pre-oiled. But there was no mention does that GM truck used Pag or Ester compressor lubricant ?
PAG
Why did you remove fender liner / under the truck etc? I just did the same job and never did that.. I took it all out the top. I got the bolts loose, connector plugs and removed from the top, no under truck necessary. I did have to swap the sensor in the rear of the compressor, the aftermarket one did not have the sensor. Good job though.
I had something similar happen with my 2001 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab 4x4 Z71, I left my truck idling with A/C on and went into store and came out 10-15 minutes later it was blowing HOT air out the vents and the interior temp was extremely high inside the truck, even with the A/C still suppose to be on, however the A/C never stops working while truck is moving and is cold as hell...?