Thank you for this highly useful and simply explained video. This is an extremely well explained diagnosis of a very common problem. This video saved me alot of money, and alot of down time. I just really need to mow the lawn. Thank you for your help.
Thanks for this, I am trying to rebuild an older model for our community garden. This is a real help. I never knew anything about ride on mowers before I purchased it. As they say though, if you want to learn about how something works, buy a busted one.
Thank you! A thousand times thank you. This video clearly explained what to look for and how to check the switches. Thanks to you I am back in business
Thanks once again for the illustrations on micro switches really very helpful tips on how to eliminate problems to keep machine from turning over your the man with the plan
Great work!!!!!Clear,concise, easily understandable info that will benefit all who watch!!!!THANKS and keep them coming. Perhaps some outboard motor videos next.
I like your videos and have learned from them. Also subscribed to your channel. I appreciate the fine camera work, the elimination of background noise and for being an articulate speaker.
This was very good and informative. We need the information provided quickly and efficiently as you have done. It's irritating to cull out "entertainment" and superfluous stuff in order to get to the needed content. Question: Where would you test the circuit in order to initially screen all the potential problems(brake, seat, deck, fuse, etc.) at one time?
Hey eliminator, I'm working on a friend's riding mower. No click, no start. Turned over when I jumped the solenoid. Changed solenoid. No click, no start. Tested the ignition switch, fine. Tested all the safety switches, fine. Began to loss my mind. Just wanted to at least get the oil warmed up to get it changed, since that's all I was suppose to be doing originally, so I went back to jumping the solenoid (after reinstalling the old one). Cracked great, no start. Attempted to check for spark, didn't think I had one so I replaced the coil. After replacement of the coil, I used starter fluid and jumped solenoid. I fired up immediately but as soon as i released the jump screwdriver it dies. Mind lost by now! I've tested the hot from battery to solenoid that's fine. When I checked voltage at solenoid on the small terminal when turning the key, there was nothing. I attempted to check continuity from red spot on ignition wiring harness plug to the same(pretty sure the same) wire on the solenoid but got nothing. Ready to run the machine over with a monster truck now. Can you please direct me wtf to do at this point. PLEASE!
you have done a fine job explaining all this !! This helped me out, even though i had gone through a small gas engine course, this electrical section I needed help in thanks!!
Very good video. Thank you for your time. I replaced my switch with a new one and the new one didnt work. But if I by pass it the fan blade works fine. Could it be wires crossed?
Usefully information. However, I was looking to test the wires under the seat and of at least three safety switches on most tractors you only mostly focused on the brake switch.
Sweet deal, buddy. So if i test the switch without removing it and it shows good is there a way to check the connector? Or do they hardly ever go bad? Maybe check the other switches before worrying about that?
Have these problems with my Husqvarna GTH 2654 after 15 years and a new carb rebuild, it runs better than new…UNTIL 3 weeks ago. Getting old enough where bending around the machine is a PITA. Going for the last two safety switches this week. If not, here goes $3000 on a new mower. Good video
I have a 2017 Troy Built Bronco where the previous owner cut the safety switch plug to where there are now 4 loose wires with female connectors. Three are single wires and one has 2 wires. How can I determine which 2 wires to jump with the parking brake on to engage the starter and turn the motor over? I am assuming the parking brake safety switch was the original problem and now I have no plug to figure out the original configuration. Your videos are very helpful and so I liked them and became a subscriber.
i like the way you explan things . so im asking you only , why do my ztrack 445 john deer when i pull the clutch button the mower shuts off .. OH yeah and my brake release sometimes cause the mower to shut down , help.
My zero turn control arm safety switches are testing opposite of each other... the left tests closed when pressed and the right control.arm tests open when pressed.... Is that. correct or a bad switch?? Thanks!
I have a cub cadet LT1554 and it will not start. I am pretty sure that the safety switch for the brake is bad but I can't figure out how to get to the switch to replace it. I can see it from the top and it looks like it would be easier to get to from the bottom as I can't get my hand in from the top at all. However, I am unsure about how to go about this repair. Do you have a video that shows how to accomplish this?
Mines a Cub Cadet RZT 50 (2009). The safety switches I have for the PTO should only kill the PTO when the arms are in reverse yet they stopped. Both test good, yet one needs to be jumped, the left one for some reason in order to work. Did I miss something? I know for this model there are only two wires on the harness that plug into it.
This is helpful. The only issue I’m having is understanding which wires go in the terminal goihg by a printed schematic. It shows the color wires and numbers but without knowing how to read a circuit diagram it’s hard ti tell if the color codes are facing inward, outward which wouid make the wires opposite. In other words am I looking at where the bare wire enters the connector cavity, or am I looking at where the wire comes out of the plug cavity, leading to safety switch. The z models have these damn neutral switches left and right and the schematic is backwards. Terrible explanation on my part but I cannot find a place that explains how to read a safe switch circuit or the parking brake etc. thank you !
So....are any of the safety switches different on the same model? I did what you said and tested the parking switch but then went on to the next in line, safety switch on the left arm thing and it doesn't test out the same. Like there's only continuity when the button is pushed in on both sides of the terminal.
I have an issue where a relative moved my tractor not by taking the e brake off and putting it in neutral he tried to push it while in gear with brake on .. Now it will start but moment i put in gear stalls like i was out of my seat .. push brake on and engine sputters back to life .. watched you video removed wire harness and have continuity on both sides all the time (idiot mashed the plunger I suppose) I made a jumper prior to even watching the rest of video (professional auto mechanic) so figured to bypass the switch to test if its bad. One side will not crank .. 2nd side cranks but no spark ? hook switch back up and it runs as before and stalls when in gear ? cannot figure out why it will not fire with switch bypassed unless there is more then one issue? do i need to ground 1 of the other 2 wires to get spark ?
Great stuff. I am familair with interlocks as I was once a Sears tech. I am stumped on my husqvarna zero turn though. Engine starts no problem. When any one of the 4 interlocks is operated, the engine dies. This is odd to me. Any ideas? I dont want to bypass all the locks for safety reasons. If I habe to, I will though.
I have a Craftsman LT 1000 that has been well maintained, starts and runs well until you let off the clutch/brake, or attempt to engage the blade. Some safety mechanism "kills" the engine. How does one trouble shoot the problem. The blade does sometime continue to spin when disengaged. Any videos or suggestions.
I have a new rider that has that ignition key safety setting that kills the engine if you try to go in reverse with the blades engaged. After starting you can switch the key to the middle position that lights a warning LED that overrides the reverse cutout. Well, one time when I was done mowing I simply got off the mower which shut it off, which also extinguished the LED, and didn't bother to also turn the ignition key off. The next morning the battery was dead. That surprised me.
I have a Toro 50" zero turn that is being bad. When I turn the key thee is a clicking sound. If i keep turning the key on and off it will finally start. It will do this most every time i try to start it. I am thinking starter but I don''t know for sure. is there a test for this problem.
Weak battery, corroded connections, or your valves need to be adjusted. Either those, or the compression release mechanism on the cam shaft is failing.
You don't need the sound, just do a resistance test and make sure the resistance is low, that way you know you have a connection. Continuity with the beep just tells you there's a connection, but doesn't tell you the resistance of the circuit.
No, a safety switch acts only as a circuit breaker. Either interrupting the circuit, or allowing it to continue. Shim your valves, usually hard to start is the valves out of tolerance.
Canada rocks! Question - why is there an interlock for mowing in reverse? One of my mowers requires me to move the ig switch to the mowing in reverse position. Another mower requires that I push a button on the ignition switch bezel which lights a light - this is a PITA since as soon as I disengage the deck then re-engage I have to remember to push the button again. Overall I feel like all the interlocks are to keep the morons safe (sort of).
It's to prevent accidents, basically they don't want you to just throw the machine in reverse. By turning the switch and engaging the safety switch it tells the machine you know you're about to go into reverse and should be more aware. Does it work? Who knows... If you're not looking behind you, accidents can happen. Thanks for watching!
On the older LT1000 and LT2000 models theres a plug by the shifter you can unplug to bypass this. Not sure if this would work with your mower. Not responsible for any cats you run over after doing the bypass!
I am working husqvarna Z248F Zero turn, wirh the handlers safety switches and I can not make t work i bypassed them and it started and drove for a bit and when i turn on the switch for to engage the blades everything shuts down even the motor ❗💔❗😰❗😤❗😤❗😤❗
All depends on the design, there's a bunch out there but I figured I'd do a video on this design because it is most common. Try googling how to test safety switch and see if your switch comes up. Also, you could look for a wiring diagram of your machine, but it may be difficult if you're not familiar with electronics. Best of luck!
I like your videos. However, this one lead off with a toilet bowl cleaner video that I had no way to skip. So, at the three minute mark I had had more than enough, and went on to another video. Don't know why there was no "skip" function, as there usually is, but I couldn't skip this one. and watch your video. Bummer.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this highly useful and simply explained video. This is an extremely well explained diagnosis of a very common problem. This video saved me alot of money, and alot of down time. I just really need to mow the lawn. Thank you for your help.
Thanks for this, I am trying to rebuild an older model for our community garden. This is a real help. I never knew anything about ride on mowers before I purchased it. As they say though, if you want to learn about how something works, buy a busted one.
I have looked on many sites for info on brake safety switches your site has been the only info that has been (VERY) helpful thank tou
Thank you! A thousand times thank you. This video clearly explained what to look for and how to check the switches. Thanks to you I am back in business
Thanks once again for the illustrations on micro switches really very helpful tips on how to eliminate problems to keep machine from turning over your the man with the plan
This is the most helpful channel on TH-cam, simple step by step !
Thanks! ❤ What I haven't seen in any videos I watched is the difficult part of removing switches to test.
Great work!!!!!Clear,concise, easily understandable info that will benefit all who watch!!!!THANKS and keep them coming. Perhaps some outboard motor videos next.
Thanks Dude, for video of troubleshooting safety switch on my lawn tractor 🚜
I like your videos and have learned from them. Also subscribed to your channel. I appreciate the fine camera work, the elimination of background noise and for being an articulate speaker.
AGREED!!
THIS GUY ROCKS!!
Thanks man. Helped me get my mower back running. Now if only I could figure out how to fix the damn lights
This was very good and informative. We need the information provided quickly and efficiently as you have done. It's irritating to cull out "entertainment" and superfluous stuff in order to get to the needed content. Question: Where would you test the circuit in order to initially screen all the potential problems(brake, seat, deck, fuse, etc.) at one time?
At the 12v solenoid charge wire coming out of the key switch. Watch this video; th-cam.com/video/vJWbfSxHY1Y/w-d-xo.html
Hey eliminator,
I'm working on a friend's riding mower. No click, no start.
Turned over when I jumped the solenoid. Changed solenoid. No click, no start. Tested the ignition switch, fine. Tested all the safety switches, fine. Began to loss my mind.
Just wanted to at least get the oil warmed up to get it changed, since that's all I was suppose to be doing originally, so I went back to jumping the solenoid (after reinstalling the old one). Cracked great, no start. Attempted to check for spark, didn't think I had one so I replaced the coil. After replacement of the coil, I used starter fluid and jumped solenoid. I fired up immediately but as soon as i released the jump screwdriver it dies. Mind lost by now! I've tested the hot from battery to solenoid that's fine. When I checked voltage at solenoid on the small terminal when turning the key, there was nothing. I attempted to check continuity from red spot on ignition wiring harness plug to the same(pretty sure the same) wire on the solenoid but got nothing. Ready to run the machine over with a monster truck now. Can you please direct me wtf to do at this point. PLEASE!
you have done a fine job explaining all this !! This helped me out, even though i had gone through a small gas engine course, this electrical section I needed help in thanks!!
Well explained!! Thanks for your demonstration.
Direct, to the point and informative. Great job. I'm subscribing!!!
Very good video. Thank you for your time. I replaced my switch with a new one and the new one didnt work. But if I by pass it the fan blade works fine. Could it be wires crossed?
Thanks for the video. This is exactly what I needed to see.
Nice short video with a good jumper wire tip, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir, very informative 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 fixed the mower..
Usefully information. However, I was looking to test the wires under the seat and of at least three safety switches on most tractors you only mostly focused on the brake switch.
Sweet deal, buddy.
So if i test the switch without removing it and it shows good is there a way to check the connector? Or do they hardly ever go bad? Maybe check the other switches before worrying about that?
Awesome video Tks 👍
Have these problems with my Husqvarna GTH 2654 after 15 years and a new carb rebuild, it runs better than new…UNTIL 3 weeks ago. Getting old enough where bending around the machine is a PITA. Going for the last two safety switches this week. If not, here goes $3000 on a new mower. Good video
What happens if you run a jumper on both sides? Would that cause it not to run?
A great job. and have a great weekend.
Thanks for watching, and you as well!
I have a 2017 Troy Built Bronco where the previous owner cut the safety switch plug to where there are now 4 loose wires with female connectors. Three are single wires and one has 2 wires. How can I determine which 2 wires to jump with the parking brake on to engage the starter and turn the motor over? I am assuming the parking brake safety switch was the original problem and now I have no plug to figure out the original configuration. Your videos are very helpful and so I liked them and became a subscriber.
i like the way you explan things . so im asking you only , why do my ztrack 445 john deer when i pull the clutch button the mower shuts off .. OH yeah and my brake release sometimes cause the mower to shut down , help.
hello, awesome video, could i just put jumper wires into the switch plug?? thank you
Fantastic video, thanks so much!
God Bless You,
Allen Haneline
Thanks great well explained video. 🖒
Best wishes
Pete.
Thanks for watching Pete!
@@EliminatorPerformance
Watch all your videos, I've learnt a lot from them.
Best wishes
Pete.
Excellent job ❗✌❗💪❗🛠❗
My zero turn control arm safety switches are testing opposite of each other... the left tests closed when pressed and the right control.arm tests open when pressed.... Is that. correct or a bad switch?? Thanks!
Best clearest useful. Thanks
I have a cub cadet LT1554 and it will not start. I am pretty sure that the safety switch for the brake is bad but I can't figure out how to get to the switch to replace it. I can see it from the top and it looks like it would be easier to get to from the bottom as I can't get my hand in from the top at all. However, I am unsure about how to go about this repair. Do you have a video that shows how to accomplish this?
What if a switch has 6 prongs? What connectors do you pair?
Mines a Cub Cadet RZT 50 (2009). The safety switches I have for the PTO should only kill the PTO when the arms are in reverse yet they stopped. Both test good, yet one needs to be jumped, the left one for some reason in order to work. Did I miss something? I know for this model there are only two wires on the harness that plug into it.
This is helpful. The only issue I’m having is understanding which wires go in the terminal goihg by a printed schematic. It shows the color wires and numbers but without knowing how to read a circuit diagram it’s hard ti tell if the color codes are facing inward, outward which wouid make the wires opposite. In other words am I looking at where the bare wire enters the connector cavity, or am I looking at where the wire comes out of the plug cavity, leading to safety switch. The z models have these damn neutral switches left and right and the schematic is backwards.
Terrible explanation on my part but I cannot find a place that explains how to read a safe switch circuit or the parking brake etc.
thank you !
So....are any of the safety switches different on the same model?
I did what you said and tested the parking switch but then went on to the next in line, safety switch on the left arm thing and it doesn't test out the same. Like there's only continuity when the button is pushed in on both sides of the terminal.
Thanks for posting
If I have no click when I turn key should I start with brake switch?
I have an issue where a relative moved my tractor not by taking the e brake off and putting it in neutral he tried to push it while in gear with brake on .. Now it will start but moment i put in gear stalls like i was out of my seat .. push brake on and engine sputters back to life .. watched you video removed wire harness and have continuity on both sides all the time (idiot mashed the plunger I suppose) I made a jumper prior to even watching the rest of video (professional auto mechanic) so figured to bypass the switch to test if its bad. One side will not crank .. 2nd side cranks but no spark ? hook switch back up and it runs as before and stalls when in gear ? cannot figure out why it will not fire with switch bypassed unless there is more then one issue? do i need to ground 1 of the other 2 wires to get spark ?
Love the videos
👍 all the way
Thanks for a great video.
Great stuff. I am familair with interlocks as I was once a Sears tech. I am stumped on my husqvarna zero turn though. Engine starts no problem. When any one of the 4 interlocks is operated, the engine dies. This is odd to me. Any ideas? I dont want to bypass all the locks for safety reasons. If I habe to, I will though.
Probably a seat switch
I have a Craftsman LT 1000 that has been well maintained, starts and runs well until you let off the clutch/brake, or attempt to engage the blade. Some safety mechanism "kills" the engine. How does one trouble shoot the problem. The blade does sometime continue to spin when disengaged. Any videos or suggestions.
Thanks. Very helpful.
Thanks very helpful
Very helpful. Thank you.
simple and to the point great video
Good day As a older fellow, I like to keep safety switch operating. My mower is like Tommy tester mower with reverse Thanks how the Ford running?
Thanks for watching Don, and she's running smooth!
Hey man that's a good tip
Thanks for watching!
Wonderful post. You really helped me. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks much
Thank you for usable info👍
Thanks for watching Adam!
Sorry about the X & the S. I hit the send button before finishing my message. Videos are a GREAT help.
I have a new rider that has that ignition key safety setting that kills the engine if you try to go in reverse with the blades engaged. After starting you can switch the key to the middle position that lights a warning LED that overrides the reverse cutout. Well, one time when I was done mowing I simply got off the mower which shut it off, which also extinguished the LED, and didn't bother to also turn the ignition key off. The next morning the battery was dead. That surprised me.
Yea they can be a pain in the butt sometimes! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much .
I have a Toro 50" zero turn that is being bad. When I turn the key thee is a clicking sound. If i keep turning the key on and off it will finally start. It will do this most every time i try to start it. I am thinking starter but I don''t know for sure. is there a test for this problem.
Weak battery, corroded connections, or your valves need to be adjusted. Either those, or the compression release mechanism on the cam shaft is failing.
Thank you very much, information very helpful.
Great video
So I've got one of those meters that don't have sound sooo what to do now
You don't need the sound, just do a resistance test and make sure the resistance is low, that way you know you have a connection. Continuity with the beep just tells you there's a connection, but doesn't tell you the resistance of the circuit.
Isn't your jumper supposed to go side to side instead of up and down
wonderful thanks!
Saved me some $$
Thank you
Awesome video
Great vid ... huge thanks !
Thanks for watching!
Bad Bad Man,, havent seen a bad video yet !!
Can a safty switch cause a mower to weak cranking
No, a safety switch acts only as a circuit breaker. Either interrupting the circuit, or allowing it to continue.
Shim your valves, usually hard to start is the valves out of tolerance.
@@EliminatorPerformance thank you!
Great question! Thanks for posting it.
My john deere x324 switch is not like this. When the button is pressed, there is continuity with one side being hot and the other two is grounds
Superb, thanks
What about 2 prong switch
Canada rocks! Question - why is there an interlock for mowing in reverse? One of my mowers requires me to move the ig switch to the mowing in reverse position. Another mower requires that I push a button on the ignition switch bezel which lights a light - this is a PITA since as soon as I disengage the deck then re-engage I have to remember to push the button again. Overall I feel like all the interlocks are to keep the morons safe (sort of).
It's to prevent accidents, basically they don't want you to just throw the machine in reverse.
By turning the switch and engaging the safety switch it tells the machine you know you're about to go into reverse and should be more aware.
Does it work? Who knows... If you're not looking behind you, accidents can happen.
Thanks for watching!
On the older LT1000 and LT2000 models theres a plug by the shifter you can unplug to bypass this. Not sure if this would work with your mower. Not responsible for any cats you run over after doing the bypass!
Switch test ok. Still no solenoid click or start
I am working husqvarna Z248F Zero turn, wirh the handlers safety switches and I can not make t work i bypassed them and it started and drove for a bit and when i turn on the switch for to engage the blades everything shuts down even the motor ❗💔❗😰❗😤❗😤❗😤❗
Does anyone know how to test one of these switches when it has more that just 4 blades?
All depends on the design, there's a bunch out there but I figured I'd do a video on this design because it is most common. Try googling how to test safety switch and see if your switch comes up. Also, you could look for a wiring diagram of your machine, but it may be difficult if you're not familiar with electronics. Best of luck!
Only one I bypass is seat switch, the rest are needed
First thing I do is bypass seat switch
What if it still doesn't work then what
Very Good!... #56 ✝ {5-13-2022}
Safety switches have ruined it for me with my cub cadet. I wish I never bought it.
I like your videos. However, this one lead off with a toilet bowl cleaner video that I had no way to skip. So, at the three minute mark I had had more than enough, and went on to another video. Don't know why there was no "skip" function, as there usually is, but I couldn't skip this one. and watch your video. Bummer.
Sometimes they force non skippable ads, it's all on TH-cams end as they are in control of that
S
x
Thank you very much