I used this method and it worked perfectly. Practically hassle free and no leaks at all. Tip for anyone else struggling to get the pump pulled up, with the under tray and hoses removed you can stand between the block and the radiator. Saves your back and makes it a lot easier when you’re pulling up and trying to thread those bolts. Thank you for this
Most important step. That surface upside down on the block flange where the top donut seal mates is always corroded. Polish it with 320 wet dry sandpaper
Followed the tips and the water pump seated under the water inlet perfectly. Learned the the oblong hole is there to allow pivot movement during installation. But the metal water pipe is corroded as you mentioned. I tried to seal it as in the video, but it is still leaking badly. I had to take it to a shop and they are not sure if it can be fixed. I need to come up with a unorthodox fix without ripping out the water pump again.
Put a jack under the engine and get a log between it and the pump. lift up to get the pump in place, get your bolts in. Done. No pulling and redoing :)
Just a little tip when installing the water pump. If you notice he’s having trouble pulling the water pump up in order to get the bolts in. What you can do is take a beveled hole punch, and gently tap it into one of the holes so that it pushes the water pump up into place and holds it there so that you can install the bolts. until I started utilizing this technique, it would sometimes take me 1/2 hour just to reinstall the water pump bolts!
@@JerkofAllTradesTLH your method is fine but idk if id ever use it since i have so far not gotten a leak my way. I just installed a pump on another 240 and i did put some rtv around the holes just to keep gasket in place
I found a way to put upwards and back pressure against the water pump, cut 2x4 or board, measure from the bottom of pump to floor providing a shallow angle /, then lightly kick board to apply pressure, works great and really presses the head to water pump seal ...
That's a good idea Ron. Last time around I tried that out but unfortunately the cut down 2 x 4 kept slipping. In the end I had an easier time putting a ratchet (tie down) strap around the bottom front of the water pump and wrapped up around the backside slope of the valve cover where the oil cap is. Make sure the strap doesn't slide and place pressure on the oil cap though. Tightening ratchet strap pulls up and back on pump.
I saw my Dad use an upright section of 2x4 resting on a floor jack underneath the car to do the same lifting job that you describe. My job was to jack it up a bit as he threaded the bolts in.
@@owenherlihy You cannot tell the Jerk anything. He / It is full of self made bottom rubbish with views as his. Your problem was what ALL home mechs experience and the best way around is to ensure you fix the timing belt, seals and water pump in the same session. This alleviates the long term ned to go back in. Also the water pump just slips on without having to go NUTS trying the align the bolts and get the thread properly contacted. I have just done this on my 740 and I've done it twice before with a 240 each time. By needing the replace the timing belt at the same time I discovered that about 2-3 hours (OR MORE) of mind loosening is not required to fit the water pump. The Jerk, to me, is a classic Jerk. Borderline troll specialist.
@@jonson562 what are you even talking about? Your obviously just looking for someone to complain to. The bolts are hard to line up. Every 240 owner and mechanic I’ve talked to have said the same thing.
@@owenherlihy Your talking to this Volvo owner and I have found quite readily that if the timing covers are off the the water pump slips on without any further delay or ado. If you haven't mechanical skill then just bring your problem to me - vehicle problem that is. Get the timing covers off and save yourself any further issue. Check the timing belt check the seals check the tensioner roller are doing the job, replace where necessary - some smarties replace because it guarantees not further work for years and years with complete satisfaction of knowing the parts are new. I've done mostly my own maintenance and I too have spoken to Volvo owners - man just take the job to a mechanic other call a mobile mechanic to do the job . I don't.
It's usually the first one to leak, it sees the most heat cycles and expansion because it being the link between the head and the pump. Replace the pump, coolant pipe o-ring, gasket and that upper lipped o-ring.
I've tried it all the ways you can think of, I find if I don't slice the gasket on the slider holes - they will leak because it deforms the gasket even with proper torque specs observed
Thank you this video is very informative. I’ve done 2 water pumps and had success both times but my next job is going to be a little more rough and you showed me what I really needed to know
Firstly thank you for your well detailed tutorial. Will do my 88 240 Soon. Questions please: Can I use permatex ultra blue gasket maker, and do I use it on both sides of the water pump gasket? For the two rubber seals can I use grease or locktite anti seize compound, or petroleum jelly? Much appreciated for your lessons in the you tube classroom, and all the best to you!!!
I don’t get it, you buy a brand new water pump OE or equivalent and it comes with a crappy paper gasket. Why not have the gasket already glued to the new water pump from the factory?
Hi do all the pumps for the B21 motors you have replaced have in the small cavity hole that pipe goes in with the small seal Smooth surface or some are grooved like similar to a thread in the video you are showing looks like a smooth surface is that right? I got a new GMB969 Pump that has thread like inside the small cavity that pipe goes in It's not smooth is that ok or do I have a faulty one thanks
Common mistakes in this install are the upper o ring not being under enough pressure and the heater core crack piped ring,. Rtv and double up on the o rings for the crack pipe and force the pump into the cyl head while tightening :) then send that old beast
I've never used RTV on any of the one's I've done. The stupid hard pipe corrodes and never seals after a certain point. I've replaced several with good used ones.
After watching this video I don't know if I want to replace my dealer installed Volvo water pump. It may be 20 years old, but it doesn't leak, is quiet and circulates the coolant properly. I have a new aftermarket pump sitting in a box ready to install when I do my timing belt, tensioner and front seals in a month or two. I thought I might as well do the water pump at the same time. But now..... Any thoughts?
Great video thank you, I followed every direction and had a leak free pump on the first shot. I had a receipt from the previous owner for the job at a Volvo specialist, it was oozing excessive RTV at every connection which probably led to the leaks that have now been corrected following this.
Just did mine today. My 1992 740 has 495K miles. According to my records this is the seventh water pump replacement. I’ve done three myself without leaks. Definitely sharing some great tips here. Thank you!!!
You just sent me a comment on another video where you stated about the condition of your '92 740 wagon: "Nope all original. Nothing but diligent routine maintenance." Now I find out that it's on it's seventh water pump. Something doesn't add up!
hello jerk, my b230 water pump is not leaking or making noise. could it still be bad? already replaced tge thermostat and flushed the radiator. Only the top of the radiator gets hot but nowhere not really normal radiator hot.. bottom drivers side corner stays totally cold, lower hose to water pump gets warm but never hot. thx and hope your volvo is running good. homeless volvo bum in seattle
Sounds like the coolant isn't circulating, water pump, or air lock are two things I'd suspect. Did you put the bleeder for the new thermostat in the correct orientation? I think I'd check that first. The water pump is relatively easy, if the coolant isn't circulating, the engine won't cool.
I used this method and it worked perfectly. Practically hassle free and no leaks at all. Tip for anyone else struggling to get the pump pulled up, with the under tray and hoses removed you can stand between the block and the radiator. Saves your back and makes it a lot easier when you’re pulling up and trying to thread those bolts. Thank you for this
Most important step. That surface upside down on the block flange where the top donut seal mates is always corroded. Polish it with 320 wet dry sandpaper
Gasket and grease - always works for me.
Followed the tips and the water pump seated under the water inlet perfectly. Learned the the oblong hole is there to allow pivot movement during installation. But the metal water pipe is corroded as you mentioned. I tried to seal it as in the video, but it is still leaking badly. I had to take it to a shop and they are not sure if it can be fixed. I need to come up with a unorthodox fix without ripping out the water pump again.
Put a jack under the engine and get a log between it and the pump. lift up to get the pump in place, get your bolts in. Done. No pulling and redoing :)
Just a little tip when installing the water pump. If you notice he’s having trouble pulling the water pump up in order to get the bolts in. What you can do is take a beveled hole punch, and gently tap it into one of the holes so that it pushes the water pump up into place and holds it there so that you can install the bolts. until I started utilizing this technique, it would sometimes take me 1/2 hour just to reinstall the water pump bolts!
Meanwhile all I did was use the grinder on the block in order to remove all gasket residues then I put back the old ass water pump no rtv. No leaks
Meanwhile, all I did was the safest and most reliable option for the customer.
@@JerkofAllTradesTLH your method is fine but idk if id ever use it since i have so far not gotten a leak my way. I just installed a pump on another 240 and i did put some rtv around the holes just to keep gasket in place
Best tip gor anyone doing this job. Use a Jack to lift up on the bottom of waterpump while you thread the bolts/Nuts. Makes the job incredibly easy.
My water pump is leaking a ton, just keep topping off fluid and watching temps. But time to finally research and replace. Thanks for the video!
I found a way to put upwards and back pressure against the water pump, cut 2x4 or board, measure from the bottom of pump to floor providing a shallow angle /, then lightly kick board to apply pressure, works great and really presses the head to water pump seal ...
That's a good idea Ron. Last time around I tried that out but unfortunately the cut down 2 x 4 kept slipping. In the end I had an easier time putting a ratchet (tie down) strap around the bottom front of the water pump and wrapped up around the backside slope of the valve cover where the oil cap is. Make sure the strap doesn't slide and place pressure on the oil cap though. Tightening ratchet strap pulls up and back on pump.
I saw my Dad use an upright section of 2x4 resting on a floor jack underneath the car to do the same lifting job that you describe. My job was to jack it up a bit as he threaded the bolts in.
Thank you. It was comforting to know we weren’t the only ones having trouble lining up the bolts.
Having to lift and thread a bolt at the same time makes this a fairly irritating job.
I almost lost my mind trying to put the bolts in.
@@owenherlihy You cannot tell the Jerk anything. He / It is full of self made bottom rubbish with views as his.
Your problem was what ALL home mechs experience and the best way around is to ensure you fix the timing belt, seals and water pump in the same session. This alleviates the long term ned to go back in.
Also the water pump just slips on without having to go NUTS trying the align the bolts and get the thread properly contacted.
I have just done this on my 740 and I've done it twice before with a 240 each time. By needing the replace the timing belt at the same time I discovered that about 2-3 hours (OR MORE) of mind loosening is not required to fit the water pump.
The Jerk, to me, is a classic Jerk.
Borderline troll specialist.
@@jonson562 what are you even talking about? Your obviously just looking for someone to complain to. The bolts are hard to line up. Every 240 owner and mechanic I’ve talked to have said the same thing.
@@owenherlihy Your talking to this Volvo owner and I have found quite readily that if the timing covers are off the the water pump slips on without any further delay or ado.
If you haven't mechanical skill then just bring your problem to me - vehicle problem that is.
Get the timing covers off and save yourself any further issue.
Check the timing belt
check the seals
check the tensioner roller
are doing the job, replace where necessary - some smarties replace because it guarantees not further work for years and years with complete satisfaction of knowing the parts are new.
I've done mostly my own maintenance and I too have spoken to Volvo owners - man just take the job to a mechanic other call a mobile mechanic to do the job . I don't.
Hello, helpful video, it looks like that top o ring that seals to the head is leaking on ours have you had that o ring leak also?
It's usually the first one to leak, it sees the most heat cycles and expansion because it being the link between the head and the pump. Replace the pump, coolant pipe o-ring, gasket and that upper lipped o-ring.
guess this is 1 way to do it, i usually put the gasket on the block bolts then put the pump on, usually the gasket dont get in the way.
I've tried it all the ways you can think of, I find if I don't slice the gasket on the slider holes - they will leak because it deforms the gasket even with proper torque specs observed
Thank you this video is very informative. I’ve done 2 water pumps and had success both times but my next job is going to be a little more rough and you showed me what I really needed to know
Can I just replace it while I have my head off for the headgasket?
Firstly thank you for your well detailed tutorial. Will do my 88 240 Soon. Questions please: Can I use permatex ultra blue gasket maker, and do I use it on both sides of the water pump gasket? For the two rubber seals can I use grease or locktite anti seize compound, or petroleum jelly? Much appreciated for your lessons in the you tube classroom, and all the best to you!!!
Is there a smaller diameter water pump pulley that will fit on the same mounting holes of the 240?
I agree. The gasket is pretty damn shit. I’ve changed mine 3 times cause it leaked
Some are better than others. The paper ones are the fucking worst.
Jerk of All Trades I have the exact pump as you. But I’m on my third gasket I gotta change mine soon before it eventually floods out my pump.
What type of sealant where you using? Thanks. Will be doing a timing belt and water pump on my 93 940 turbo wagon soon.
I don’t get it, you buy a brand new water pump OE or equivalent and it comes with a crappy paper gasket. Why not have the gasket already glued to the new water pump from the factory?
Assholes, that's why. Often times I will buy an aftermarket gasket thats wax impregnated.
Hi do all the pumps for the B21 motors you have replaced have in the small cavity hole that pipe goes in with the small seal Smooth surface or some are grooved like similar to a thread in the video you are showing looks like a smooth surface is that right? I got a new GMB969 Pump that has thread like inside the small cavity that pipe goes in It's not smooth is that ok or do I have a faulty one thanks
Needs to be smooth for the square seal to make any sort of seal.
Thanks for this tip ,my first attempt leaked second go today on my 740 estate
Common mistakes in this install are the upper o ring not being under enough pressure and the heater core crack piped ring,. Rtv and double up on the o rings for the crack pipe and force the pump into the cyl head while tightening :) then send that old beast
I've never used RTV on any of the one's I've done. The stupid hard pipe corrodes and never seals after a certain point. I've replaced several with good used ones.
After watching this video I don't know if I want to replace my dealer installed Volvo water pump. It may be 20 years old, but it doesn't leak, is quiet and circulates the coolant properly. I have a new aftermarket pump sitting in a box ready to install when I do my timing belt, tensioner and front seals in a month or two. I thought I might as well do the water pump at the same time. But now..... Any thoughts?
if it aint broke dont fix it 🤣
@@eddierittler5880 That's right! I left it on.
Great video thank you, I followed every direction and had a leak free pump on the first shot. I had a receipt from the previous owner for the job at a Volvo specialist, it was oozing excessive RTV at every connection which probably led to the leaks that have now been corrected following this.
My hero
Great tips man, this video helped me out big time.
does this apply for a 91 240?
Any B21/23/230 and the FT variants.
have you ever tried shellac?
yeah, shellac/spray gasket etc all works fine.
Just did mine today. My 1992 740 has 495K miles. According to my records this is the seventh water pump replacement. I’ve done three myself without leaks. Definitely sharing some great tips here. Thank you!!!
Still Hangin' around Jef?
@@genesmith4019
Long and lean brother!!!
@@genesmith4019 prolly hangin' loose'n'swingin'
You just sent me a comment on another video where you stated about the condition of your '92 740 wagon: "Nope all original. Nothing but diligent routine maintenance." Now I find out that it's on it's seventh water pump. Something doesn't add up!
@@bobjohnson1587 water pumps are routine maintenance....
Why did you spray break cleaner onto a rag ? lol it was probably evaporated before you touched the pump
It was not.
hello jerk, my b230 water pump is not leaking or making noise. could it still be bad? already replaced tge thermostat and flushed the radiator. Only the top of the radiator gets hot but nowhere not really normal radiator hot.. bottom drivers side corner stays totally cold, lower hose to water pump gets warm but never hot. thx and hope your volvo is running good. homeless volvo bum in seattle
Sounds like the coolant isn't circulating, water pump, or air lock are two things I'd suspect. Did you put the bleeder for the new thermostat in the correct orientation? I think I'd check that first. The water pump is relatively easy, if the coolant isn't circulating, the engine won't cool.