VF stuff very useful, just bought two sets of 0.12mm gauges for the set up, now going on eBay to buy a couple of 0.003” gauges which makes far more sense to set the valves, thanks.
Those are all Dave Dodge tricks, one additional one I didn't cover is to set the clearance and before tightening the stem nut, rotate the motor so pressure is now on the two valve stems and nuts you just did. Basically, about to where they are fully pushed down by the rocker, depends a little but usually about that much. Now, you can usually tighten the nuts without the stems moving thus throwing off your setting. This is also Dave's tip and it does work, especially on the rear cylinders which are hard to get a wrench or tool in with a screwdriver at the same time to tighten them up. It also puts the nuts at a better angle for a wrench to fit, whereas when they're "up" (TDC) the angle is such that the cylinder head edge gets in the way.
I check clearance when the lobe is -30° 0° and 30° on the same lobe. Pretty much the full sweep of the cam lobe without the lobe actually pressing down the valve and spring.
I've got the same model vfr and I've never attempted to check my valve clearance, but I've been thinking of it. What tip might you have for someone who has no experience with it?
Don't know. I don't do custom work much, I stick to OEM. Have no idea what engine will fit into which frame. You might want to try the various VFR Facebook pages and ask there.
Yes. The 1100's unfortunately have the worst rep for eating cams from that era, also 2nd gear issues, but that's a separate matter. I believe that because the 1100 was just so much fun to hammer, guy's did exactly that... and if one bike being ridden like a Honda racing team bike happened to have a set of the actual peanut butter cams, they'd fail and because the 1100 was such a beast, it appeared more of those went south than the 750's. That's just my feeling on it.
@@MotoRestoFL yeah, i know one of the guys who used to work on the Honda drag race team, and it was a problem for sure on earlier bikes. I got lucky, cuz mine ( cams) were nearly perfect, and i even took pictures when i adjusted the valves, cuz some people did not believe it. The original owner, and i did maintenance properly, and used synthetic oil, always.
i bought a magna with 2 front cylinders not firing....when i removed the carbs thingking its a clogged carb causing the proble...i noticed the valves are not moving when cranked but no unusual noise...rear cylinders are ok....please help :D
How are you determining the valves aren't moving, by looking down the intakes? What year Magna? It'll be cranking very irregularly if the front two cylinders are dead. You need to pull the radiator, then the front cylinder(s) cover (head cover) and visually check the cams are turning. If they aren't you have big problems because the cam chain is likely broken (that will be very easy to spot) or other cam/sprocket damage.
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
VF stuff very useful, just bought two sets of 0.12mm gauges for the set up, now going on eBay to buy a couple of 0.003” gauges which makes far more sense to set the valves, thanks.
Those are all Dave Dodge tricks, one additional one I didn't cover is to set the clearance and before tightening the stem nut, rotate the motor so pressure is now on the two valve stems and nuts you just did. Basically, about to where they are fully pushed down by the rocker, depends a little but usually about that much. Now, you can usually tighten the nuts without the stems moving thus throwing off your setting. This is also Dave's tip and it does work, especially on the rear cylinders which are hard to get a wrench or tool in with a screwdriver at the same time to tighten them up. It also puts the nuts at a better angle for a wrench to fit, whereas when they're "up" (TDC) the angle is such that the cylinder head edge gets in the way.
I check clearance when the lobe is -30° 0° and 30° on the same lobe. Pretty much the full sweep of the cam lobe without the lobe actually pressing down the valve and spring.
Yep that’ll work. I follow service manual procedures for video purposes.
I've got the same model vfr and I've never attempted to check my valve clearance, but I've been thinking of it. What tip might you have for someone who has no experience with it?
#1, get a service manual and follow it. #2, enjoy the process because on the VFR it's a cake walk compared to the VF's. Cheers.
Can VRF750 fit in a honda 1985 VF750FE interceptor
Don't know. I don't do custom work much, I stick to OEM. Have no idea what engine will fit into which frame. You might want to try the various VFR Facebook pages and ask there.
Pretty much the same as my '85 Honda Vf1100 Sabre.
Yes. The 1100's unfortunately have the worst rep for eating cams from that era, also 2nd gear issues, but that's a separate matter. I believe that because the 1100 was just so much fun to hammer, guy's did exactly that... and if one bike being ridden like a Honda racing team bike happened to have a set of the actual peanut butter cams, they'd fail and because the 1100 was such a beast, it appeared more of those went south than the 750's. That's just my feeling on it.
@@MotoRestoFL yeah, i know one of the guys who used to work on the Honda drag race team, and it was a problem for sure on earlier bikes. I got lucky, cuz mine ( cams) were nearly perfect, and i even took pictures when i adjusted the valves, cuz some people did not believe it. The original owner, and i did maintenance properly, and used synthetic oil, always.
i bought a magna with 2 front cylinders not firing....when i removed the carbs thingking its a clogged carb causing the proble...i noticed the valves are not moving when cranked but no unusual noise...rear cylinders are ok....please help :D
How are you determining the valves aren't moving, by looking down the intakes? What year Magna? It'll be cranking very irregularly if the front two cylinders are dead. You need to pull the radiator, then the front cylinder(s) cover (head cover) and visually check the cams are turning. If they aren't you have big problems because the cam chain is likely broken (that will be very easy to spot) or other cam/sprocket damage.
@@MotoRestoFL i just removed the cover and yes the cam chain is broken...now i will be forced to become a mechanic....lol
@@EvendimataE what year Magna? It makes a difference.
@@MotoRestoFL its a 1995
@@EvendimataE oh ok. It’s a later one. Well, good luck. Hard to tell you anything else.
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