Great video - thanks for getting right to the point without filler content. For my ductless minisplit drains I attach a vacuum to the drain outside and that works well.
We just have been having this problem where the AC drain was backing up into the ac/heating duct in the floor,We thought the new shower we put in was leaking, after spending 700 buck for someone to use some high tech equipment we discovered it was the condensate line we had that cleaned and no water in ducts.Thanks for this tip.
Great advice. I was using a blower/vacuum connected to the outside drain pipe to vacuum out the blockage while adding hot water from inside the condensate pipe. Your method is much more effective. I definitely will adapt yours. Thank you Sir. 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Thanks for posting! I am glad to move out of the 8% and into the 92%. I realized mine has not been cleaned out in several years, miracle that anything is flowing at the moment. I look forward to checking your other postings.
the pipe that supplies your shower head is a similar enough size that an adapter can be used to convert it to a garden hose size and then you can run it from there instead of having to bring a hose all the way up from outside
if you think that is difficult, wait till you try this bad advise, blow apart some fittings and flood your home. then comes the cleanup, the drain repair, the drywall repair, the painters, the floor guy .... thats when this really becomes a DIY job
This is great. My AC is almost exactly configured that way. - One item I thought you were going to suggest when you were saying "one more Thing" was to attempt to vacuum out any H2O from the AC system via the drain that was exposed.
During an Annual Service, I was told that you want to make sure that you leave water in the line and not vacuum it out completely. You can vacuum out the line, but was told to put water back in the line so that it sort of works like a syphon. Your thoughts?
Another tip is to add a clear piece of tubing in the vertical section of the drain pipe. You can easily inspect the tubing visually to see if any water has pooled indicating a blockage.
I use vinyl tubing and it fits so tight it won’t leak without glue. All this stuff about not gluing pvc fittings is a crock. I’ve seen them leak when people forget to glue one. The only ones I don’t glue is the access tube at the top. It’s better to vacuum from outside when you can because it sucks the fittings tighter instead of blowing them apart.
Mine are all glued.. I just stuck a WET rag down the inspection (top of pipe)opening past the pipe that comes from the unit with a larger diameter drinking straw along with it. Past the pipe coming from yhe unit. Blow into the straw ant you can feel when the blockage is clear when your blowing. It's just gunk in there, and it came out easy. Remove rag & straw. And then I pour a cup of WHITE VINEGAR down the pipe once a month. Article on you-tube said bleach is TOO STRONG & WILL MELT GLUED JOINTS(????).. Not sure about that, but the installation crew said bleach when it was installed 9-10 years ago. Who knows?? Your thermostat will automatically come back on if you haven't turned it off like the guy said... That's it was easy▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎
The most important thing that was missing is make sure that you have a shut off valve on the garden hose. Cause if the drain is plugged, it’s probably going to blow the hose connector right off the pcv. Then by the time you come back in the house it’s flooded. You have to hold pressure with your hand cause it’s going to want to kick back. Guaranteed
My drain line runs through my ceiling. If I flush it using this method, I worry about the pipe breaking in the middle of my ceiling.😰 There’s an Aussie tool that fits on the end of the drain pipe outside of homes and allows you to pull a vacuum using a shop vac. My problem: I can’t find the end of my drain pipe ANYWHERE.🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️ My husband and I have looked everywhere, and we can’t figure out where the builder hid it. If we try this hose method, we’ll probably find it, but at what cost??😳
Main issue with this tip is most pipes have been glued together, and can't simply be pulled apart. If you feel comfortable you could buy the parts to recreate your existing glued pipes and then use this trick.
HVAC guy here you can do that on 1% through the t for vinager but in most you can’t cause there no reason why your drain is without glue anyway shop vac from outside plus water from inside is and will always be the way easier to imagine if is in the attic
In Florida this is common. I’ve always just taken a garden hose with a twist type pressure hose attachment and put it against the outside pvc piping and turned the water on blasting it towards the inside unit. Works like a charm. It seems like most of the sludge builds up closer to the outside unit anyways and not near the pan. Then I hook up a wet dry vac to the outside line also and suck out anything that remains. 👍
I definitely am glad I found this channel. I am totally green with electrical at 40 plus yrs old. And it's very helpful so that I can do it the right way. So 👍👍 it's very useful!
Wow! This worked like a charm. I typically can unclog by using a shop vac and hose. This time it was really clogged and this is just what I needed to push it through. Thank you! 🙏
I added a couple of things onto my drain to make life easier. 1st I glued most pvc connections. 2nd I added a "T" with a hose fitting and cap. 3rd between the air handler and and "T" I added a ball valve. The connections between ball valve and air handler are pressed together. I can close the ball valve and push water or air through the drain line with no issues at all. I can then disassemble and clean parts between air handler and ball valve easily! *** If you do this be sure you have extra pvc pipe so in the future you can relocated your drain for new air handler. ***
Good idea, I had a clogged drain line downstream, probably under house, and the garden hose was the only thing to create enough pressure to clear the clog, lots of white slime came out at the end outside. A vacuum wouldn't work, and it was not possible to snake through multiple tight turns where the clog, plus it would be nightmare if the snake broke the pipe. So water hose is great idea. Just make sure there is no way for it to backup into the furnace. I installed a permanent ball valve, and then after that downstream a water hose connection, so now I just need to turn the valve (so water doesnt back up into the furnace) connect the hose and turn it on. No need for taking anything apart. That wouldn't solve a clog in the 2 feet of pipe from furnace to ball valve, so put a simple T connector there, since a brush could easily reach that area. Also big warning, I made a huge 4K mistake of poking too hard into the drain hole where it meets the furnace, not realizing how delicate the evaporator coil inside was. There are several 1/4" aluminum tubes near the drain hole, and there flimsy, so if you break one of those, your toast, cant be repaired at least safely, and they have to replace the entire evaporator coil. So just be careful about anything going into the furnace. I had no idea, treat it like glass.
I had to use compressed air because my air handler is in the hallway of the second floor (can't get a hose up there, but can get air from the air compressor in the garage). What do you use to keep it clean through out the year, Draino, bleach? I was using bleach, but it didn't work out all that great and dragging that air line through the house, along with cleaning up the mess was a pain in the rear end. You should have seen all the gunk that the compressed air forced out, it looked like a dozen cats all barfed in one spot outside.
How did you connect the compressor to the drain line, and also without it going the furnace? You could do it with a bucket of water like this guy did but need a $220 tool th-cam.com/video/bLshRVFnnh4/w-d-xo.html. I had the same gunk its called bacteria zooglia. Apparently evaporator coils used to be made of copper, now they're made of aluminum, copper has antibacterial properties whereas aluminum does not. So the water from the aluminum coil is more susceptible to create this gunk. Drano won't fix it either. Im trying to figure it out, it's a biofilm, so something that would attack that. I even heard of people putting a penny in the drain pan to create the chemical reaction necessary to prevent this white slime from developing the first place. apparently its a new phenomenon with the advent of aluminum evaporator coils
@@travis7277I live in Florida. Every 5-6 weeks I run warm water down the line and then run a cup of vinegar. Recommended by an AC tech. Best advice I’ve been given. My AC runs perfect.
You don't. the issue is the evaporator coils themselves they get gunked up with algae and shit. So prepare for a very messy job but before you do the thing with coil cleaner ascertain that there's no condensate in the pan itself. Because if there is that means that more than likely the primary drain is clogged. Most places also have a secondary pan that drains to above an entry door or window. See any drips there and you know the primary is clogged.
This was too freakin' easy. Thanks! In my case, the only access was a capped section of pipe that fed into a tee (one side AC, other side drainage). I didn't want to attach the hose adapter to this tee because it'd've meant I was pushing water into the AC unit too. Instead, I cut the tee out and replaced it with an unglued 90. This gave me undivided access to flush the drain line. And, man, was it satisfying to watch that stream of water flush out to the outside.
I actually replumbed my condensate drain, I added a pvc ball valve so water could not backup into the air handler, I added a garden hose fitting and cap and I got a three way elbow so I could put another cap, this three way elbow is wide enough to drop in a little chlorine tablet (Walmart has them in the bleach isle) which dissolves right away with the water coming from the unit. The bleach kills all the mold, bacteria, biofilm, etc that clogs drains. One chlorine tab once a month and flush with the garden hose once a year and you will not have any issues.
@@henrykennedy1120 The way I have mine plumbed the ball valve is between the drain and air handler and it does prevent water from going back into the air handler, the only path for the hose water is to flow down the drain to clean it out
Gotcha but dont use a hose to clean drain I've been a master licensed HVAC certified tech for 45 years never use water hose just shop vac and co,2 blow gun
You can connect your hose to the water heater drain valve at the bottom of the water heater next to your AC, and run hot water through the pipes. This will allow you to hold onto the pipes and turn the water on or off fast.
The hot water does kill the bacteria and algae in the pipe for sure. But I bet you that 1 out of 3 water heaters will start that damn drip, drip, drip, And I wouldn’t tell people to mess with the burning hot water or the heater they probably aren’t qualified to safely do that. But it does work really well. I tell people to put hot water , then bleach, let it sit for 20-30 minutes, then hot water again. Out of a cup
Would the water heater tank generate enough pressure to open the clog? Asking casue the heater would be sitting right next to the AC drain pipe with no elevation difference to get enough pressure. Have you done this?
I've been using a long air hose off my compressor in the garage, it blasts all the gunk out of the line to the outside. I've tried the shop vac method, but it just doesn't do the job. I do like the idea of following up the air blast with a run of the hose to really clean out anything left behind.
Thank you so much. I appreciate it have a question I know you get so many emails. What about the pan inside the AC unit do I open the unit to check it? I heard about tablets I’m not sure to leave in the pan thank you for what you do I appreciate it deeply. God blessJP from Miami
Excellent tips and turials. With todays cost for repairs DIY is required to save. What about outside unit? Any tips? I will be looking at your other videos just looking for starter suggestions.
Thats a cool little trick man! I use a small handheld wetvac with a smaller tip, have for years. If its bad I start by spraying some diluted coil cleaner down into the pan outlet, Always good to see different ways though, subbed!
@@DeaninItYourself Thanks for your video, Just wondering why one would use a shop vac on the outside to suck up debris vs blowing debris from air handler side?
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful. However, after I declog the pipes, there’s still a little bit of water leaking under the HVAC UNIT leaking
Thanks. I’m in the process of course tonight. I checked the overflow and it was full. Removed 2 cups water, ran drain brush as deep as it would go. I put a bleach in it. Checked at 11/00 pm and removed 6 cups water. Added drano and will Chex in the morning. My question is did you say water needs to be in the pipe? It was going to overflow both times. I’m lost.
I don’t understand to some extent the pvc you removed not being glued together. Guessing since it just a drain line with hopefully little to no pressure, it is okay not to glue it? Question: What is best way to level an air handler with a bent drain pan? Mine collapsed on one side a few years ago and caused flooding in two rooms under it. Figured it was the installers fault, but it lasted several years before it collapsed on the one side opposite the drain pipe. Now I am thinking maybe the drain line clogged and caused the water to back up which cause the pan to collapse on that side? Been running g a while not but have not leveled the pan.
@@a1tank400 Most A/C info online says that bleach doesn't dissolve clogs nearly as well as white vinegar and if the drain is plumbed so that what you add also goes into the drain pan, bleach is more caustic to the coils than vinegar is. My A/C guy recommended 1/2 cup of white vinegar once a month.
I’ve been doing this on mine for the last few years and yes the pvc piping should not be glued so as to access it periodically for maintenance. There’s no need for the pvc to be glued and if it is just cut out a section and replumb it but don’t use the glue
One question. The standpipe on your unit appears capped. I seem unable to get a consensus if this is correct or not. One AC guy puts it on, and the next takes it off. Your opinion?
If it is before the trap, it has to be capped to prevent dusty unfiltered air to get sucked in and clog evap coils. If it is after trap, than take it off as it is used as a vent to enable better draining.
Ah, I see the confusion. My AC (2.5 ton) was installed without a trap. I checked the manual (Bryant, but very generic) and it says that's okay - although not recommended. @@officerkrupke4966
Every video I watch for this involves a system setup nothing like mine. It's a horizontal line with a T in it for the float, just like my last place had. Need to block the blow-back into the AC unit, while simultaneously sending the air in the other direction, working from the T. If you have a tip on doing that, I'm all ears.
Unfortunately the way I do it since I also have a setup like yours is to remove the portion of the pipe that has the Tee and clean it manually and then just blow out the rest of the pipe with the hose. I usually take the small portion with the tee outside and clean it with water as well. It’s an extra step but T least I know the entire pipe is clean. That’s the best I got for you.
@@DeaninItYourself Thank you for your reply! I've recently found a T with a directional valve that enables me to connect the hose to the T-valve and direct the gas/air flow in which ever direction is needed. I wish they'd have installed those!
Is there a reason why you would hook up a wet-vac on the outside then run water through from the air-handler vs blowing air from wet vac at the air handler to flush out system?
I had a clog in the condensate line thst could not be cleared, kept on backing up triggering the float seitch. Condensate is not pure water, its called serum which builds up on the wall of the line. I used muriatic acid in the line for 30 minutes then flushed it out with hot water. I couldn't believe the build up in the line. I was told muriatic acid would not harm pvc, its been a year without any issues. I usually flush the lines twice a year, i uave no idea why this back up happened. Im in south Fla.
I use a solution of vinegar and baking soda let that foam up a bit run three gallons of water down lines and then run my shop vac and suck the lines clear. Prevention is key to avoid clogged lines! Do this every other month or if going on vacation the day before that way no issues while away!!!
What about the balance of the pipe that is still attached to The A/C unit where the two wires come up, automatically shut the unit off when it’s not properly draining which hasn’t been cleaned out. It’s directly next to the PVC pipe you removed from the A/C on the right side.
My AC unit is in the garage (I live in Florida) right next to the utility sink. I do the same thing, but without the connector. Works great! I use a short piece of garden hose with a female end on one side to connect to the utility sink faucet, and no connector on the other end, just a cut off hose. The "trap" portion of the drain has an un-glued extension (like the one in your video). I pull out the extension and just stick the hose into the drain line, turn on the faucet and let it run for a few minutes while I change the filter. I do this every month, year 'round. My unit is a heat pump and is also my heat source (when I need heat) so it is in use year 'round.
@@craigkennedy9968 I think it's a little more common than "1 in a million". Just a little.🤦🏼♂ Especially in Florida, where many (if not most) AC fan units are located in garages. And many (if not most) garages have a water source to connect to. Either a utility sink faucet or washer connections.
Ill try this for sure but im afraid to mess with the pvc section attached to the air handler. It has glued on black padding around the pipe. Any advice?
My question is, when you TEONSTALL The pvc pipes back, do you have to put glue or just like that, it might be water leak If I don't put Blue or is safe thank you
Our AC unit only has one U shape plastic pipe visible, where the leak is coming from. Should I try to remove it and flush it out or call a professional. Thank you.
That's one way to do it. There is also available a kit that has a shut-off valve on it to prevent blow-back into the drip pan. This way you don't have to take everything apart. I also use the little tabs to prevent scum/slime buildup. This system has worked great for me for years now.
@@mvm932 I think he it talking about a cleaning agent tab that you drop into the line to help dissolve any buildup. SimpleAir SACF Drain Line tabs, 6 Count
they sell ac drain pan tablets that you can put in the pan to help break down the gunk, what i do sometimes is to hold my shop vac to pipe and suck out all the gunk
Has the unit always drained outside? If not then it is definitely blocked in the wall where it goes into the pee-trap. The average a/c unit is producing about a gallon of water per hour. It kinda sounds like the tech didn’t want to be in the heat of the attic and I can certainly understand that in August But in the early morning or in the fall, it should be addressed. I’m at work right now and would like to discuss it further. If you would like to give me a way to call you directly, I’d be happy to help you resolve it. It should be running to a vent stack. Either by a bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room. Whichever is closest generally
I'm going to try this. I've got water coming out of the condensation PVC pipe in my garage instead of water flowing into the flower bed from the PVC condensation pipe outside.
That's trouble. Means the primary drain is clogged which means the primary pan is fulla condensate. Evaporator coils are gunked up real bad with algae & shit. Coil cleaner time.
I'm in Florida. Ours is so clogged it is thick like rubber.No sucking it out! Also our pipes do not come apart, they are glued , and there is a T where the float switch comes out so if we put hose there the flow goes to the pan instead of outside pipe. Plumbers should design installation with a shut off valve to pan and his hose connection below the valve. Need to capped that hose connection when not in use somehow.
What if you just found out the primary and secondary drain lines are reversed- probably since new install about 5 years ago? Unit is working fine - should we reverse or leave it alone? Thanks
Unreal. You should fix that. The primary should exit near the compressor unit with a 180 degree turn up as a bug trap so they don't get up in there during the time that the unit is off in the winter months.
That's my setup. I had a clog towards the end of the drain run, some 50 feet from the air handler, mostly compacted sediment. I cut the drain by the air handler and ran my hose up in the attic to flush it out. I also disconnected the line going into the sink so flushed it into a bucket so I could see what was causing the clog. Worked great.
The main thing I didn't see in this video was that if the drain was plugged, as soon as that pipe was pulled loose, all the water in the drip pan would have poured out, assuming that the plug was after the separation point. Usually, it will be.
Nobody I know who does hvac is gonna just stick the pvc fittings together with NO glue and primer. You’re gonna be sadly mistaken when you go to pull your pipes apart and they don’t come apart. You can add that fitting at the top of a pvc tee and use this trick but it may be a small project to do not 10 minutes.
It is common for the first two fittings near the unit to not be glued. This allows cleaning of the pan drain. I agree that I’ve never seen the pipes this accessible and all unglued!
These drains are not under any pressure, so gluing them together isn’t necessary. But more importantly, if you glue ‘em up, you can’t disconnect them for cleaning.
@shaunb.5401 Sounds like you jhust popped the top of ther PVC off and put the hose in without cutting off the supply so the water wouldnt run back to the unit.
Will need to check inside once you open the water so you avoid water running everywhere if the pipe get disconected or the water return back, just a tip.
most PVC cement will dry out over time and become unsealed. thats what makes this bad advise so bad ... when people pressurize their drain line with 35 pounds of water from a hose pipe and blow apart those fittings, flooding their homes
Thanks for the tip.
Great video - thanks for getting right to the point without filler content. For my ductless minisplit drains I attach a vacuum to the drain outside and that works well.
We just have been having this problem where the AC drain was backing up into the ac/heating duct in the floor,We thought the new shower we put in was leaking, after spending 700 buck for someone to use some high tech equipment we discovered it was the condensate line we had that cleaned and no water in ducts.Thanks for this tip.
Great advice. I was using a blower/vacuum connected to the outside drain pipe to vacuum out the blockage while adding hot water from inside the condensate pipe. Your method is much more effective. I definitely will adapt yours. Thank you Sir. 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Glad it helped
Thanks for posting! I am glad to move out of the 8% and into the 92%. I realized mine has not been cleaned out in several years, miracle that anything is flowing at the moment. I look forward to checking your other postings.
No to mention in the South USA sometimes the HVAC is in the attic. Getting garden hose up there is difficult.
Okay then it is not for you
the pipe that supplies your shower head is a similar enough size that an adapter can be used to convert it to a garden hose size and then you can run it from there instead of having to bring a hose all the way up from outside
if you think that is difficult, wait till you try this bad advise, blow apart some fittings and flood your home. then comes the cleanup, the drain repair, the drywall repair, the painters, the floor guy .... thats when this really becomes a DIY job
Great video! After flushing the pipes, add some vinegar to kill bacteria and submerge the ones removed into vinegar too. Thanks!
Bleach works very well too.
Bleach not vinegar
This is great. My AC is almost exactly configured that way. - One item I thought you were going to suggest when you were saying "one more Thing" was to attempt to vacuum out any H2O from the AC system via the drain that was exposed.
During an Annual Service, I was told that you want to make sure that you leave water in the line and not vacuum it out completely. You can vacuum out the line, but was told to put water back in the line so that it sort of works like a syphon. Your thoughts?
That's a very common Florida condenser situation. That includes the snap-together PVC drain and the threaded water tank connections.
Another tip is to add a clear piece of tubing in the vertical section of the drain pipe. You can easily inspect the tubing visually to see if any water has pooled indicating a blockage.
Great tip
I use vinyl tubing and it fits so tight it won’t leak without glue. All this stuff about not gluing pvc fittings is a crock. I’ve seen them leak when people forget to glue one. The only ones I don’t glue is the access tube at the top.
It’s better to vacuum from outside when you can because it sucks the fittings tighter instead of blowing them apart.
Won't be able to see through it in a matter of months.
mine has a clear P trap so easy to monitor
Mine are all glued.. I just stuck a WET rag down the inspection (top of pipe)opening past the pipe that comes from the unit with a larger diameter drinking straw along with it. Past the pipe coming from yhe unit. Blow into the straw ant you can feel when the blockage is clear when your blowing. It's just gunk in there, and it came out easy. Remove rag & straw. And then I pour a cup of WHITE VINEGAR down the pipe once a month. Article on you-tube said bleach is TOO STRONG & WILL MELT GLUED JOINTS(????).. Not sure about that, but the installation crew said bleach when it was installed 9-10 years ago. Who knows?? Your thermostat will automatically come back on if you haven't turned it off like the guy said...
That's it was easy▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎▪︎
The most important thing that was missing is make sure that you have a shut off valve on the garden hose. Cause if the drain is plugged, it’s probably going to blow the hose connector right off the pcv. Then by the time you come back in the house it’s flooded. You have to hold pressure with your hand cause it’s going to want to kick back. Guaranteed
Your right about that these u tube channels are good about leaving important information out. Glad i have plenty of common sense 👍
Excellent point!
i was thinking the same thing when i was watching. With my luck thats exactly what would happen. Especially with PVC.
@@dini1046I was thinking maybe turn it on slowly, but by bit so not to rush and risk it blowing off
My drain line runs through my ceiling. If I flush it using this method, I worry about the pipe breaking in the middle of my ceiling.😰 There’s an Aussie tool that fits on the end of the drain pipe outside of homes and allows you to pull a vacuum using a shop vac. My problem: I can’t find the end of my drain pipe ANYWHERE.🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️ My husband and I have looked everywhere, and we can’t figure out where the builder hid it. If we try this hose method, we’ll probably find it, but at what cost??😳
Main issue with this tip is most pipes have been glued together, and can't simply be pulled apart. If you feel comfortable you could buy the parts to recreate your existing glued pipes and then use this trick.
Yep, this makes this tip useless. Came here to say this.
HVAC guy here you can do that on 1% through the t for vinager but in most you can’t cause there no reason why your drain is without glue anyway shop vac from outside plus water from inside is and will always be the way easier to imagine if is in the attic
@@nelsonmontalvo7581 I have heard shop vacuum outside, but what do you mean "plus water inside"?
@@vipermageex5861let some water 💧 run thru it then do the shop vac
So true. The tip he's giving is easier said than done. Good advice though
In Florida this is common. I’ve always just taken a garden hose with a twist type pressure hose attachment and put it against the outside pvc piping and turned the water on blasting it towards the inside unit. Works like a charm. It seems like most of the sludge builds up closer to the outside unit anyways and not near the pan. Then I hook up a wet dry vac to the outside line also and suck out anything that remains. 👍
That's a good technique too!
I definitely am glad I found this channel. I am totally green with electrical at 40 plus yrs old. And it's very helpful so that I can do it the right way. So 👍👍 it's very useful!
I just hook a wet vac to the outside pipe and let it run for a few minutes. Sucks all the gunk out of the pipe including the pan.
My units are in the attic so good idea to go in the attic and pour some bleach in the drain line after that.
@@crand20033 I have heard to use white vinegar instead as bleach/chlorine can damage the PVC drain line.
@@andrewpolasek5524 Won't hurt the drain line, but the chlorine fumes can corrode the coils in the air handler.
What if you dont get anything from vacuuming out the drain line?
@@EsequielRodriguez-n8qif it’s not flowing you might need a bigger vacuum.
Wow! This worked like a charm. I typically can unclog by using a shop vac and hose. This time it was really clogged and this is just what I needed to push it through. Thank you! 🙏
Glad it helped!
I added a couple of things onto my drain to make life easier. 1st I glued most pvc connections. 2nd I added a "T" with a hose fitting and cap. 3rd between the air handler and and "T" I added a ball valve. The connections between ball valve and air handler are pressed together. I can close the ball valve and push water or air through the drain line with no issues at all. I can then disassemble and clean parts between air handler and ball valve easily! *** If you do this be sure you have extra pvc pipe so in the future you can relocated your drain for new air handler. ***
That is the setup that I wish I had. In the main time, keep adding vinegar. 😂
I have slip on hose connectors and I always use a bike foot pump to force air through and it works in seconds.
This only works of you have a water hose near your indoor unit. Around here the inside unit is in the attic or in the basement.
Good idea, I had a clogged drain line downstream, probably under house, and the garden hose was the only thing to create enough pressure to clear the clog, lots of white slime came out at the end outside. A vacuum wouldn't work, and it was not possible to snake through multiple tight turns where the clog, plus it would be nightmare if the snake broke the pipe. So water hose is great idea. Just make sure there is no way for it to backup into the furnace. I installed a permanent ball valve, and then after that downstream a water hose connection, so now I just need to turn the valve (so water doesnt back up into the furnace) connect the hose and turn it on. No need for taking anything apart. That wouldn't solve a clog in the 2 feet of pipe from furnace to ball valve, so put a simple T connector there, since a brush could easily reach that area. Also big warning, I made a huge 4K mistake of poking too hard into the drain hole where it meets the furnace, not realizing how delicate the evaporator coil inside was. There are several 1/4" aluminum tubes near the drain hole, and there flimsy, so if you break one of those, your toast, cant be repaired at least safely, and they have to replace the entire evaporator coil. So just be careful about anything going into the furnace. I had no idea, treat it like glass.
I had to use compressed air because my air handler is in the hallway of the second floor (can't get a hose up there, but can get air from the air compressor in the garage). What do you use to keep it clean through out the year, Draino, bleach? I was using bleach, but it didn't work out all that great and dragging that air line through the house, along with cleaning up the mess was a pain in the rear end. You should have seen all the gunk that the compressed air forced out, it looked like a dozen cats all barfed in one spot outside.
How did you connect the compressor to the drain line, and also without it going the furnace? You could do it with a bucket of water like this guy did but need a $220 tool th-cam.com/video/bLshRVFnnh4/w-d-xo.html. I had the same gunk its called bacteria zooglia. Apparently evaporator coils used to be made of copper, now they're made of aluminum, copper has antibacterial properties whereas aluminum does not. So the water from the aluminum coil is more susceptible to create this gunk. Drano won't fix it either. Im trying to figure it out, it's a biofilm, so something that would attack that. I even heard of people putting a penny in the drain pan to create the chemical reaction necessary to prevent this white slime from developing the first place. apparently its a new phenomenon with the advent of aluminum evaporator coils
@@travis7277I live in Florida. Every 5-6 weeks I run warm water down the line and then run a cup of vinegar. Recommended by an AC tech. Best advice I’ve been given. My AC runs perfect.
You don't. the issue is the evaporator coils themselves they get gunked up with algae and shit. So prepare for a very messy job but before you do the thing with coil cleaner ascertain that there's no condensate in the pan itself. Because if there is that means that more than likely the primary drain is clogged. Most places also have a secondary pan that drains to above an entry door or window. See any drips there and you know the primary is clogged.
@@travis7277 Bacterial Zoogloea - th-cam.com/video/5VOffWjmWkk/w-d-xo.html
OMG. this worked like a champ. I cancelled 75 dollars of pressurizing tools from Amazon. Very easy fix. Thank you so much.🤩
Glad it helped
This was too freakin' easy. Thanks! In my case, the only access was a capped section of pipe that fed into a tee (one side AC, other side drainage). I didn't want to attach the hose adapter to this tee because it'd've meant I was pushing water into the AC unit too. Instead, I cut the tee out and replaced it with an unglued 90. This gave me undivided access to flush the drain line. And, man, was it satisfying to watch that stream of water flush out to the outside.
it is the best feeling, its strange yet satisfying
Its not that easy all the fittings are glued or should be.
Loved the part @ 4:46, when you "put a wrench on it" & "get it nice 'n snug". Loved that footage with the wrench! Wildly helpful! 😡🏃♂🏃♂🏃♂🏃♂🍋
Glad you enjoyed it
I actually replumbed my condensate drain, I added a pvc ball valve so water could not backup into the air handler, I added a garden hose fitting and cap and I got a three way elbow so I could put another cap, this three way elbow is wide enough to drop in a little chlorine tablet (Walmart has them in the bleach isle) which dissolves right away with the water coming from the unit. The bleach kills all the mold, bacteria, biofilm, etc that clogs drains. One chlorine tab once a month and flush with the garden hose once a year and you will not have any issues.
Wonderful ! You are ahead of many others. Kindly put a picture or diagram to help me to do the same arrangement at my home . Stay blessed !!
Ball valve doesn't stop water from backing up
@@henrykennedy1120 The way I have mine plumbed the ball valve is between the drain and air handler and it does prevent water from going back into the air handler, the only path for the hose water is to flow down the drain to clean it out
Gotcha but dont use a hose to clean drain I've been a master licensed HVAC certified tech for 45 years never use water hose just shop vac and co,2 blow gun
You can connect your hose to the water heater drain valve at the bottom of the water heater next to your AC, and run hot water through the pipes. This will allow you to hold onto the pipes and turn the water on or off fast.
The hot water does kill the bacteria and algae in the pipe for sure. But I bet you that 1 out of 3 water heaters will start that damn drip, drip, drip, And I wouldn’t tell people to mess with the burning hot water or the heater they probably aren’t qualified to safely do that. But it does work really well. I tell people to put hot water , then bleach, let it sit for 20-30 minutes, then hot water again. Out of a cup
Would the water heater tank generate enough pressure to open the clog? Asking casue the heater would be sitting right next to the AC drain pipe with no elevation difference to get enough pressure. Have you done this?
@@zahidkm Yes and hot water will clean better than cold water.
Smart
I've been using a long air hose off my compressor in the garage, it blasts all the gunk out of the line to the outside. I've tried the shop vac method, but it just doesn't do the job. I do like the idea of following up the air blast with a run of the hose to really clean out anything left behind.
I like that idea.
Thank you so much. I appreciate it have a question I know you get so many emails. What about the pan inside the AC unit do I open the unit to check it? I heard about tablets I’m not sure to leave in the pan thank you for what you do I appreciate it deeply. God blessJP from Miami
Yes you can! Buy the tablets at Home Depot and drop them in the pan they will help to dissolve the algae build up if you have any
Thanks. I learned something new. Right now I have a leak in my apartment sized AC. Is there something different I need to do? Really great video.
How come your pvc pipes/connectors were not glued together, and could be disassembled quickly?
somtimes they are but in those cases i cut the pvc and just put it back together with a coupling
@@DeaninItYourself That will work. Thanks much.
Excellent tips and turials. With todays cost for repairs DIY is required to save. What about outside unit? Any tips? I will be looking at your other videos just looking for starter suggestions.
Thats a cool little trick man!
I use a small handheld wetvac with a smaller tip, have for years. If its bad I start by spraying some diluted coil cleaner down into the pan outlet, Always good to see different ways though, subbed!
Hey I’ve been told ( and doing it the past few years) that pouring a lil bleach down the line keeps it clear
Thanks for letting know because that’s what I am encountering right now.
Glad it helped!
good idea. It is also good idea to clean the drain pan as well.
I agree, a clean pan is important.
This is exactly the same problem I have. Thank you for this video.
Glad I could help!
Wow this is the best and shortest video I've seen. You make it look so easy and I am going to do it today. THANK YOU!
you are welcome
@@DeaninItYourself
Thanks for your video,
Just wondering why one would use a shop vac on the outside to suck up debris vs blowing debris from air handler side?
Thank you for this video. It was very helpful. However, after I declog the pipes, there’s still a little bit of water leaking under the HVAC UNIT leaking
check the pipe thats connected to the ahu
Thanks. I’m in the process of course tonight. I checked the overflow and it was full. Removed 2 cups water, ran drain brush as deep as it would go. I put a bleach in it. Checked at 11/00 pm and removed 6 cups water. Added drano and will Chex in the morning. My question is did you say water needs to be in the pipe? It was going to overflow both times. I’m lost.
water should be in the pipe but it should be flowing
I don’t understand to some extent the pvc you removed not being glued together.
Guessing since it just a drain line with hopefully little to no pressure, it is okay not to glue it?
Question:
What is best way to level an air handler with a bent drain pan?
Mine collapsed on one side a few years ago and caused flooding in two rooms under it.
Figured it was the installers fault, but it lasted several years before it collapsed on the one side opposite the drain pipe.
Now I am thinking maybe the drain line clogged and caused the water to back up which cause the pan to collapse on that side?
Been running g a while not but have not leveled the pan.
Good vid. I add a cup of white vinegar once a month, keeps it clear and clean.
How about adding bleach?
@@a1tank400 Most A/C info online says that bleach doesn't dissolve clogs nearly as well as white vinegar and if the drain is plumbed so that what you add also goes into the drain pan, bleach is more caustic to the coils than vinegar is. My A/C guy recommended 1/2 cup of white vinegar once a month.
Yes! A cup of white vinegar, followed by a few cups of hot water is what I use once a month and it keeps the AC drain line clean.
My overflow pan drain is the only line that drains outside of my house. The condensation drains into my home drainage.
I love videos like this simple and plain.
Thanks.
I’ve been doing this on mine for the last few years and yes the pvc piping should not be glued so as to access it periodically for maintenance. There’s no need for the pvc to be glued and if it is just cut out a section and replumb it but don’t use the glue
I am buying the hose connectors tomorrow at Lowe's. Clearing this drain line will save a $200 service call. Thanks
Thanks for your help. Had some issues with my ac before
What size? Do you have a link for both the female and male you purchased?
the size is 3/4inch, i belive the links are in the description
Outstanding Tip ! Worked perfectly for me!
What if we don’t have hose access to the handler like that? Maybe use two dry vacs?
One question. The standpipe on your unit appears capped. I seem unable to get a consensus if this is correct or not. One AC guy puts it on, and the next takes it off. Your opinion?
If it is before the trap, it has to be capped to prevent dusty unfiltered air to get sucked in and clog evap coils. If it is after trap, than take it off as it is used as a vent to enable better draining.
Ah, I see the confusion. My AC (2.5 ton) was installed without a trap. I checked the manual (Bryant, but very generic) and it says that's okay - although not recommended.
@@officerkrupke4966
Great thanks got that problem with my ac unit now I know how to fix it
Can you show a condensate clean out that is connected to a sink drain?
I use a hose all the time, connected to HWH or laundry sink, 2 ACs
Every video I watch for this involves a system setup nothing like mine. It's a horizontal line with a T in it for the float, just like my last place had. Need to block the blow-back into the AC unit, while simultaneously sending the air in the other direction, working from the T. If you have a tip on doing that, I'm all ears.
Unfortunately the way I do it since I also have a setup like yours is to remove the portion of the pipe that has the Tee and clean it manually and then just blow out the rest of the pipe with the hose. I usually take the small portion with the tee outside and clean it with water as well. It’s an extra step but T least I know the entire pipe is clean. That’s the best I got for you.
@@DeaninItYourself Thank you for your reply! I've recently found a T with a directional valve that enables me to connect the hose to the T-valve and direct the gas/air flow in which ever direction is needed. I wish they'd have installed those!
Is there a reason why you would hook up a wet-vac on the outside then run water through from the air-handler vs blowing air from wet vac at the air handler to flush out system?
either would work it is just a matter of preference
I use a shopvac on the outside pipe and vacuum the pipes. That removes the residue from the entire pipeline. Do this once every 2 to 3 months
.
I had a clog in the condensate line thst could not be cleared, kept on backing up triggering the float seitch. Condensate is not pure water, its called serum which builds up on the wall of the line. I used muriatic acid in the line for 30 minutes then flushed it out with hot water. I couldn't believe the build up in the line. I was told muriatic acid would not harm pvc, its been a year without any issues. I usually flush the lines twice a year, i uave no idea why this back up happened. Im in south Fla.
I did something similar with a shop vac, switching it up to force air through the pipes.
Thank you for your video. Question: The pipe you removed and put it back, is it twisted in and untwisted out?
yes it is
I use a solution of vinegar and baking soda let that foam up a bit run three gallons of water down lines and then run my shop vac and suck the lines clear. Prevention is key to avoid clogged lines! Do this every other month or if going on vacation the day before that way no issues while away!!!
Thanks for yr video if yr unit has a filter it also should be cleaned out to help the unit to perform better
Question:what if your AC does not drain outside, it drains internal supposedly into the bathroom can you still do the water hose treatment? Thanks
yes
What about the balance of the pipe that is still attached to The A/C unit where the two wires come up, automatically shut the unit off when it’s not properly draining which hasn’t been cleaned out. It’s directly next to the PVC pipe you removed from the A/C on the right side.
that can be cleaned as well but usually those dont get clogged up because water should not be going down that pipe frequently
My AC unit is in the garage (I live in Florida) right next to the utility sink. I do the same thing, but without the connector. Works great!
I use a short piece of garden hose with a female end on one side to connect to the utility sink faucet, and no connector on the other end, just a cut off hose. The "trap" portion of the drain has an un-glued extension (like the one in your video). I pull out the extension and just stick the hose into the drain line, turn on the faucet and let it run for a few minutes while I change the filter.
I do this every month, year 'round. My unit is a heat pump and is also my heat source (when I need heat) so it is in use year 'round.
your situation is the one in a million that can safely do this , for most everyone else ... they will blow apart fittings and flood their home
@@craigkennedy9968 I think it's a little more common than "1 in a million". Just a little.🤦🏼♂
Especially in Florida, where many (if not most) AC fan units are located in garages. And many (if not most) garages have a water source to connect to. Either a utility sink faucet or washer connections.
Ill try this for sure but im afraid to mess with the pvc section attached to the air handler. It has glued on black padding around the pipe. Any advice?
dont e scared, its only pvc. if you cut it and you need to fix it. you can just re glue it
Where do you get those adapters?
link in the video description, you can also pick them up at home depot in the sprinkler section
@3:05 a lizard was shot out of the drain in the water
My question is, when you TEONSTALL The pvc pipes back, do you have to put glue or just like that, it might be water leak If I don't put Blue or is safe thank you
i put it back like that. no leak so far
Thanks for the information bud..
Thank you for sharing your knowledge…I like what I see and most likely that is what I am going to do…
Our AC unit only has one U shape plastic pipe visible, where the leak is coming from. Should I try to remove it and flush it out or call a professional. Thank you.
Try to flush it out
That's one way to do it. There is also available a kit that has a shut-off valve on it to prevent blow-back into the drip pan. This way you don't have to take everything apart. I also use the little tabs to prevent scum/slime buildup. This system has worked great for me for years now.
What do you mean little tabs? Thanks.
Can you please send link for the kit you mention and what tabs did you mean ?
@@DAT-TEXAS-DUDEsee my reply
@@mvm932 I think he it talking about a cleaning agent tab that you drop into the line to help dissolve any buildup. SimpleAir SACF Drain Line tabs, 6 Count
What about all the slime And gunk that can build up inside the bottom of the unit before the pipes ?
they sell ac drain pan tablets that you can put in the pan to help break down the gunk, what i do sometimes is to hold my shop vac to pipe and suck out all the gunk
Simple and easy. Many thanks!
Has the unit always drained outside? If not then it is definitely blocked in the wall where it goes into the pee-trap. The average a/c unit is producing about a gallon of water per hour. It kinda sounds like the tech didn’t want to be in the heat of the attic and I can certainly understand that in August But in the early morning or in the fall, it should be addressed. I’m at work right now and would like to discuss it further. If you would like to give me a way to call you directly, I’d be happy to help you resolve it. It should be running to a vent stack. Either by a bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room. Whichever is closest generally
I'm going to try this. I've got water coming out of the condensation PVC pipe in my garage instead of water flowing into the flower bed from the PVC condensation pipe outside.
Did it work?
That's trouble. Means the primary drain is clogged which means the primary pan is fulla condensate. Evaporator coils are gunked up real bad with algae & shit. Coil cleaner time.
I'm in Florida. Ours is so clogged it is thick like rubber.No sucking it out! Also our pipes do not come apart, they are glued , and there is a T where the float switch comes out so if we put hose there the flow goes to the pan instead of outside pipe. Plumbers should design installation with a shut off valve to pan and his hose connection below the valve. Need to capped that hose connection when not in use somehow.
You can install a ball valve easily to solve your problem
Just spent $100 to a/c guys for this and two days with no a/c in arizona 110○ no more . Thanks for the tips 🙏🏾
glad i could help
Good and clear explanation of what to do. Thank you sir!!!
What if you just found out the primary and secondary drain lines are reversed- probably since new install about 5 years ago? Unit is working fine - should we reverse or leave it alone? Thanks
Unreal. You should fix that. The primary should exit near the compressor unit with a 180 degree turn up as a bug trap so they don't get up in there during the time that the unit is off in the winter months.
What if your clean out port and a hose pipe connection are not close together.
you can always use a shop vac and connect it to the drain outside.
What if your unit and condensate line is in attic and pipe dumps into a line under sink?
That's my setup. I had a clog towards the end of the drain run, some 50 feet from the air handler, mostly compacted sediment. I cut the drain by the air handler and ran my hose up in the attic to flush it out. I also disconnected the line going into the sink so flushed it into a bucket so I could see what was causing the clog. Worked great.
I have a valve to isolate downstream from AH, and use an air compressor nipple attached to the pipe. turn on compressor...all clean
What about pouring a cup of White Vinegar down the line monthly? Pros/Cons?
that works well for maintenance, so if you do that you are less likely to have a build up of algae. That is good practice
Hello. Thank you for the information about the air conditioner
Thanks Brother....man, was a quick fix and saved me money!!!!
welcome
Wish I'd seen this last Friday.
Why didn't you use any glue for the pipes?
The main thing I didn't see in this video was that if the drain was plugged, as soon as that pipe was pulled loose, all the water in the drip pan would have poured out, assuming that the plug was after the separation point. Usually, it will be.
Hey cool idea now can you tell me ware you got the adapter. Tanks
Homedepot
great job, never knew the flush attachment exists, thank you
you are welcome
Thanks always thinking about pipes on the outside
Always have a vent T or cleanout T , but this is done on spring checkup
true
If I do not use a hose, what is best to use Bleach or white vinegar and water?
warm water with vinegar
Nobody I know who does hvac is gonna just stick the pvc fittings together with NO glue and primer. You’re gonna be sadly mistaken when you go to pull your pipes apart and they don’t come apart. You can add that fitting at the top of a pvc tee and use this trick but it may be a small project to do not 10 minutes.
It is common for the first two fittings near the unit to not be glued. This allows cleaning of the pan drain. I agree that I’ve never seen the pipes this accessible and all unglued!
These drains are not under any pressure, so gluing them together isn’t necessary. But more importantly, if you glue ‘em up, you can’t disconnect them for cleaning.
@shaunb.5401 Sounds like you jhust popped the top of ther PVC off and put the hose in without cutting off the supply so the water wouldnt run back to the unit.
Will need to check inside once you open the water so you avoid water running everywhere if the pipe get disconected or the water return back, just a tip.
It's a drain, it doesn't need glue!
How I flash my pipe for a Trane unit, the pipe doesn’t come out so easy?
Great idea but I'm pretty sure everyone's PVC are glued together.
No certified AC technician will ever glue the AC drain pvc pipe.
most PVC cement will dry out over time and become unsealed. thats what makes this bad advise so bad ... when people pressurize their drain line with 35 pounds of water from a hose pipe and blow apart those fittings, flooding their homes
Thank you it gd to know these lil things. keep the videos
This is legit good advice.
thanks
What if , your a/c has a lot of water , draining , is that normal or something is wrong