Hi Greg, this was a great experience to watch. Congratulations on a bucket list crossed off. More Greg tips that I can use with my archery adventures. Thank you for sharing your project, it was very cool Take care, Rick Mansberger
Greg - You stayed focused like your first jump back in the day and you landed it! The semi came out great (Ben was the man), I know you are proud, well done and enjoy brother. Your archery tips have helped me along this 3D season. High scores Pinto 259, Slick Stick 259, damn a tie and BP Apex 13 a 274, ya baby! Keep up the good work and please say Hi to Jeff for me. "The bullseye is back"
So much fun to watch and inspiring me to try to build one. Great job! (ps...what's with the haters giving you 45 thumbs down. What the x&$%! A guy having fun, building a bow, sharing it with others...I don't get the hate)
Great job Greg, I am REALLY impressed!!! You got it into your head to make a bow, and went right ahead and did it. That's fantastic. I'm inspired to try my hand at it this coming winter. I hope that you and Jeff have fun at the Bowhunting festival this weekend.
Greg, you don't tiller a laminated Bow by sanding the belly of the laminations. You tiller it by sanding the width of the limbs that will also help you with the hinge that it looks like you're getting right at your Fades a little bit of thickness on the limbs will go a long way for dropping poundage. If you're really close to the pounded you want you can do what's called trapping the limbs which is you basically sand The Edge on kind of like a 45 degree angle but again you're doing the width of the limb not the thickness of the limb like you do on a self bow. If you want any more info just send me a message and I'll answer any questions you have. I've made several of these. Also just a word of warning building bows is very addictive :-)
You will not regret it. Took it to the range today and nailed a "Robin Hood" with it in the 5 ring on an indoor 300 target. I'm amazed by it every time i shoot it.
Greg, good for you on a great looking bow. I am sure you built only bulls eyes in your bow. :-) I can't wait to see how it shoots out side. Thank you for the video. Alan
Alan Beaulier Thanks, took it to the range and on my last two arrows of the day, I hit the five ring (on an indoor 300 target) and on my next arrow, I Robin Hooded the 5 spot. Amazed every time I use that bow.
Next time, make an exact form pattern from 1/4" board, then rough cut and glue your plywood pieces together. Next, take a pattern bit in a router and cut the form pieces to the pattern. Way faster, and way more exact than sanding all down my hand.
Doc. I use E-A 40 . I go straight into the heat box . Mine has two incandescent lights . It gets to 200 and its cured in 4 hours . Haven had one problem with it going the quicker route.
Idk if it was worked out on the finer tiller but looked like there was some pretty heavy hinging on both sides of the riser. Might be a smoother shot if you side tiller the profile, careful with that cause that can effect the rest of the tiller but if you can get the rest of the limbs bending more symmetrically it'll help the bow in the long run and thinning the limb profile typically will add speed as well.
I always feel like the right wood makes the difference, using a perpendicular form cut that goes across different laminations in the first step just feels wrong to me. I know backing can save almost any large mistakes, especially with this type of bow. Cool to see someone giving these a go in their own home.
Loved watching the experience! I live next to the Bingham Archery guys and I can't say enough good about them. They helped me get into arrow building and I have really wanted to get one of the kits they offer so this was great to see! Out of curiosity how much would a old 55lb left handed Ben Pearson Pinto be worth? A late 60's model. Any help would be great!
Nice bow! Never tryed this kind of bows to make. I make yumi's and south indians. And as long as the limbs are in balance there should be no problems with the bending at the riser i think.
Hi Greg. Nice bow. How`s it holding up? When I started making bows I`ve made the mistake of making the riser fades too short and thick (I hade a bow explode on me). You should make the fades long and thin- 1" from the end should be 1/8" thick and 2" from the end should be no more the 3/8" thick.
My first failed as well, cracked in the upper limb, due to i was excited and got hasty. I havent made one in years. Next will be a reflex/deflex longbow, and ill shoot off-hand.
..aaaand,+=spooof=+,bow construction itself appeared into the mold getting to dry already,i wanted to see detailed things on how many layers of what in where and so
Is the reason it is not symmetrical is because it is set up for split finger shooting? Also that is pretty nice looking bow first time building or not.
Please, I need the measurements of the mold to know what the undulations are like. would you be so kind as to measure the base of the wood up to the cut? This way I can mark the points and proceed to do it myself
Curing at room temperature for 24hrs and then heating for 4-8hrs is only to increase the physical properties of the glue. Curing 12hrs at room temp then 6hrs at 150° plus cooling time is to cure it up to 6hrs faster. Going from 28-34 hrs down to 18hrs. I'm not sure where or not that also increases the performance. On EA-40 you can also cure at room temp for 24hrs and cure for 2hrs at 250° to increase the glue's resistance to heat.
According to Smooth On, the best way is to cycle it. They do not recommend the 24 and 2 you suggested. The say either the 24 at room or the cycle method are the two best options.
@@incorporeal3793 Not according to the rep Smooth On sent to my house thinking I was a business due to how much I was ordering from them. We had a very good and technical conversation.
@@3DArchery, sorry, but I did not suggest that, I should have stated in the original post the last method was not for bow building. It is only to increase the glue's resistance to heat. My mistake.
I'm watchin for dyeing, I have color india ink to test and use once I find what the vehicle is for wood dyeing, 4th fuzzy descrip and now I am here to hear about that, the black bow did make me click too, hope it is not just clear covering on that bow.
Tim S. ArtistMcc Not sure what you are talking about. Did not dye, the black is the fiberglass lamination. Dyeing wood bye, is pretty straight forward to do
Great job Greg, I've been thinking of building one for a while and this really helped my research. Where did you get the components? Seems like the most critical part is getting the fades right on the riser. I was wondering if you got it that way or you had to shape it to size. Thanks
I bought The Kit for a "Hybrid Long Bow" from Bingham Bows (Did not use their plans though), Cost about $360. Comes with everything for the bow. The only thing you will need to purchase is plywood for the forms. The riser comes as a block, the wooden lams are pre-planed. As for the fades, in my test runs, the air hose did not close the fades. There was a huge gap. My solution was to heavily tape it down (You tape it down just to hold it in place), til the Gap was gone. The fades are one key, the other is to make the lower section of the form as perfect as possible (smooth lines, as straight as possible) and to ensure that the riser fit on that bottom form really, really well, no gaps.
I saw a Ben Pearson left handed Bow last week in a pawn shop. I'm not sure of the model, It looked to be at least 62". The owner offered me a $30 price. I'm wondering if that's a good price or a really good price? I'm not a left handed shooter but can't pass up a deal on a nice recurve whether I shoot it or not.
Chea Chyang Hello, I’m not the person to ask. I really do not know much at all about strings. Speak to Jeff at “The Nocking Point” or Jim at “Archery Adventures”. They make and sell strings and would be of much more help than I
Great Question, No, one is not mandatory. However, room temperature is important, a minimum of at least 70 F is required. Go under that and you are tempting fate. You can "make" one in may ways, just be creative.
Tough but good question. Tool wise you will need at least a saw to cut the form and riser. Drill for the form, and Files and Sandpaper for the rest. To make the form: Plywood is best, but you can use other woods. Instead of the air hose you can use rubber straps made from inner tubes As for parts of the bow, you can save money on riser material, but the lamination you would have to buy. The process is actually quite basic.
UK ARCHERS. Darwen and Blackburn. It was plain to see there was no strength in the limbs when your strung it. also i see buckles at the start of the limbs. overall a goood start. id go again but this time build it all up in thin laminates of diff woods. bamboo is a nice one, each laminate a few mm thick. i can see there is no strenth where the limbs exstend from the riser.. there is a video of a pro maker showing how they make theres and from the way i see you used the pump you seen it to.. he smacks all of the glass of with a dead blow hammer rubber ended. next time do it how he does in in the factory. did you put in at least one laminate of carbon? ... come of fella i see al your bows you made your no noob. i shoot recurve btw... i wana see a pro finish.. like i said good first go.. my first electric guitar. took me 2 years. but at least i sold if for 500 pounds. so first attempts aint no excuse :P btw are you a cop b,a,c ? or was that a joke.????.. well i was suprised to see the power from when you first strung it...seems ok now.... not bad.... o yea your supost to tape it all the way along then wrap it with clingfilm hard to get them laminates down solid. if you would of done that im sure you would of got a better poundage. im a give it 7.5 out of 10.. terrible finish. no polish..after all that..id have looking like glass... anyway have a good shoot... you gona be good shooting that all day i guess ? or tired towards the night time...?
What County are you in? I want to lean how to build bows,I been a wood worker all my life. I used a compound bow for years but I been using a crossbow because of really bad back and neck problems. Take care great channel.
Al Va I live in Dutchess County in NY. Bingham products sells a great starter kit. That is what I used to build this bow. It takes you step by step through the process.
I'm not sure where that's at I been to Horse heads and up to the Glen a few times. I would like to make a homemade bow just to see if I can do it and hunt with it I have all the equipment so I been thinking about it
Some of this video is really helpful, but some of this is so cringe. Recip saw instead of a jigsaw? Metal instead of the forms? Are you not using 11 ply? Talk about something that's really not affected by moisture - or are you using it underwater? If you're that worried about wood movement just seal the forms after you make them. I mean, you're cutting these things with a jigsaw and hand sanding them, your precision isn't going to be really high to start with, wood movement in the form is near the bottom of the list of things to worry about. Another user mentioned about sanding and where to sand when tillering. The end product looked solid!
Not sure about your comment about preferring a metal form. It is a far better material to work with. I still would prefer to have the form made out of metal and no, water has nothing to do with it. Sorry to disappoint but I did a really nice job using the sander, the lines were straight and there where and still are no issues (18 bows in), so I do not see you point on this.
@@3DArchery Why metal? You say water has nothing to do with it, but you're not going to experience appreciable wood movement in a jig like this - and you can seal it to help prevent that also. The point is metal doesn't really provide you anything here. I also don't even begin to understand how you'd rather use a reciprocating saw over a jigsaw. I do think the bow turned out really well, and I'm pretty sure I said that in my original comment. I was actually genuinely surprised it turned out that well just with some of the comments you were making during the build, but I can't second guess the end result.
@@sngehl01 Why Metal? Because it is the better choice. Fred bear has been using metal jigs since the 70's, Ben Pearson too. They have used the same jigs since then too. With a wood jig, due to the heat cycles, it will deteriorate over time. Not so with metal. I used the Jig Saw, I tried the other to answer questions that some might have. I tried many things that so many "experts" recommend, some worked, others did not. The video is not a how to, but a guide to let those trying it the first time see the process and get some feedback on it. Are you a bowyer? If so, I would love to see videos of the bows you built and your process.
Interesting, never thought of that. Spoke to many bowyers and they do no use router. Has to be a reason, thanks for pointing that out. Going to ask them that.
Heel? Maybe on a Howard Hill style bow. On any bow with a pistol type grip, the pressure should be evenly spaced on the thumb pad section of the hand and what they call the “lifeline”
The fella does good work . But man o man . Can you please just shut up and build the bow. The narrative kills me , seriously how many times can I roll my eyes . Lol . Nice work tho.
Hi Greg, this was a great experience to watch. Congratulations on a bucket list crossed off.
More Greg tips that I can use with my archery adventures.
Thank you for sharing your project, it was very cool
Take care,
Rick Mansberger
Just wanted to take the time to thank you for doing this video. It answered alot of questions I have had about making a laminated bow.
Greg - You stayed focused like your first jump back in the day and you landed it! The semi came out great (Ben was the man), I know you are proud, well done and enjoy brother. Your archery tips have helped me along this 3D season. High scores Pinto 259, Slick Stick 259, damn a tie and BP Apex 13 a 274, ya baby! Keep up the good work and please say Hi to Jeff for me. "The bullseye is back"
i am impressed by anyone who wants to hand make anything . a good first attempt .
pro trick: watch series at kaldrostream. Been using them for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Charles Salvador yup, been using KaldroStream for years myself =)
That is awesome. Nice work. I built one when I was a teenager. Mine had a week limb. Great job. Love seeing bows being built.
saw your 509th tee shirt , i'm an old 503rd abn inf. vietnam vet ,enjoyed your video
So much fun to watch and inspiring me to try to build one. Great job! (ps...what's with the haters giving you 45 thumbs down. What the x&$%! A guy having fun, building a bow, sharing it with others...I don't get the hate)
Not the hate at all . He does great work . Its the bla bla bla...bla bla bla.
Nice to see someone think I'm going make a bow and go and do it your an inspiration grear job
Great job Greg, I am REALLY impressed!!! You got it into your head to make a bow, and went right ahead and did it. That's fantastic. I'm inspired to try my hand at it this coming winter. I hope that you and Jeff have fun at the Bowhunting festival this weekend.
Nice job. I want to try and build one myself
If it can be shot it's a success. Each successive one will be better. Nice job Greg!
Greg, you don't tiller a laminated Bow by sanding the belly of the laminations. You tiller it by sanding the width of the limbs that will also help you with the hinge that it looks like you're getting right at your Fades a little bit of thickness on the limbs will go a long way for dropping poundage. If you're really close to the pounded you want you can do what's called trapping the limbs which is you basically sand The Edge on kind of like a 45 degree angle but again you're doing the width of the limb not the thickness of the limb like you do on a self bow. If you want any more info just send me a message and I'll answer any questions you have. I've made several of these. Also just a word of warning building bows is very addictive :-)
Thank you.
Wow awesome .....Im stoked for you on your 1st bow build ......I will attempt this one day , thanks for the video !!
You will not regret it. Took it to the range today and nailed a "Robin Hood" with it in the 5 ring on an indoor 300 target. I'm amazed by it every time i shoot it.
3D Archery ....That's great will check out your new video shooting it this weekend I hope ...
NIce and fun video! I enjoy every minute! :)
Congratulations Greg, you nailed it!
I've been looking forward to this!
This is fantastic! Great job!
Greg, good for you on a great looking bow. I am sure you built only bulls eyes in your bow. :-) I can't wait to see how it shoots out side. Thank you for the video. Alan
Alan Beaulier
Thanks, took it to the range and on my last two arrows of the day, I hit the five ring (on an indoor 300 target) and on my next arrow, I Robin Hooded the 5 spot. Amazed every time I use that bow.
Cool video 😎👍💯
Next time, make an exact form pattern from 1/4" board, then rough cut and glue your plywood pieces together. Next, take a pattern bit in a router and cut the form pieces to the pattern. Way faster, and way more exact than sanding all down my hand.
Doc. I use E-A 40 . I go straight into the heat box . Mine has two incandescent lights . It gets to 200 and its cured in 4 hours . Haven had one problem with it going the quicker route.
Air Assisted tube = Sheer Genius!
Have a Ben Pearson Colt, 55 lb. have had it for 35 years. Love that bow.
I have five of them. Awesome bows they are
Excellent Build!! Can't wait to see that bow in person! I'll build you the string for it now..
Idk if it was worked out on the finer tiller but looked like there was some pretty heavy hinging on both sides of the riser. Might be a smoother shot if you side tiller the profile, careful with that cause that can effect the rest of the tiller but if you can get the rest of the limbs bending more symmetrically it'll help the bow in the long run and thinning the limb profile typically will add speed as well.
I should add tho, for a first lam bow it's awesome that it's functional and it's a good looking bow. Realized how negative my first comment was...
Not, negative, constructive. Thanks.
I always feel like the right wood makes the difference, using a perpendicular form cut that goes across different laminations in the first step just feels wrong to me. I know backing can save almost any large mistakes, especially with this type of bow. Cool to see someone giving these a go in their own home.
Great video man, thanks.
Awesome bow!
Those sanders make good seats.
Greg, your bow will keeeeel.
Funny, I said that while at the range when I hit a Robin Hood with it!
Loved watching the experience! I live next to the Bingham Archery guys and I can't say enough good about them. They helped me get into arrow building and I have really wanted to get one of the kits they offer so this was great to see! Out of curiosity how much would a old 55lb left handed Ben Pearson Pinto be worth? A late 60's model. Any help would be great!
Chris Jensen
The kit is not easy, but it also is not hard. Go for it.
The Pinto would go for on eBay from 135 to 175. I have seen a few go for 200
3D Archery thank you that's good to know! My grandfather and I are both left handed and he gave me the bow. I love it and it sure does hit hard!
Good job, by any chance do you have the measurements of the mold? a reference pdf would be nice
Done both...nothing beats a band saw
Nice bow! Never tryed this kind of bows to make. I make yumi's and south indians. And as long as the limbs are in balance there should be no problems with the bending at the riser i think.
Kyra Witalla Do you have a website?
Man that is well done !! I
That's some great craftsmanship do you sell them. 🏹
Hi Greg. Nice bow. How`s it holding up? When I started making bows I`ve made the mistake of making the riser fades too short and thick (I hade a bow explode on me). You should make the fades long and thin- 1" from the end should be 1/8" thick and 2" from the end should be no more the 3/8" thick.
My first failed as well, cracked in the upper limb, due to i was excited and got hasty. I havent made one in years. Next will be a reflex/deflex longbow, and ill shoot off-hand.
..aaaand,+=spooof=+,bow construction itself appeared into the mold getting to dry already,i wanted to see detailed things on how many layers of what in where and so
I did not go over that because there are tons of videos already that goes over those details.
Awesome Greg!
Great job! Artie Johnson says "Veeeery interestink." 😎
Like the video. The part about the cure time and temps was a little hard to understand but the crono was nice to see.
I did mine just like you a while back.
Nice job!
I want to do this 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Is the reason it is not symmetrical is because it is set up for split finger shooting? Also that is pretty nice looking bow first time building or not.
krs48
Don't think so. The bow I based it off of, is the same way. Guess it is just part of the design.
Thanks for the info pal great gob.
Please, I need the measurements of the mold to know what the undulations are like. would you be so kind as to measure the base of the wood up to the cut? This way I can mark the points and proceed to do it myself
Sorry, When we moved across the country, I threw the forms away and gave that bow away. All I did was trace a bow.
Curing at room temperature for 24hrs and then heating for 4-8hrs is only to increase the physical properties of the glue. Curing 12hrs at room temp then 6hrs at 150° plus cooling time is to cure it up to 6hrs faster. Going from 28-34 hrs down to 18hrs. I'm not sure where or not that also increases the performance. On EA-40 you can also cure at room temp for 24hrs and cure for 2hrs at 250° to increase the glue's resistance to heat.
According to Smooth On, the best way is to cycle it. They do not recommend the 24 and 2 you suggested. The say either the 24 at room or the cycle method are the two best options.
@@3DArchery yes, the last one would be for applications other than bow building. 👍
@@incorporeal3793
Not according to the rep Smooth On sent to my house thinking I was a business due to how much I was ordering from them.
We had a very good and technical conversation.
@@3DArchery, sorry, but I did not suggest that, I should have stated in the original post the last method was not for bow building. It is only to increase the glue's resistance to heat. My mistake.
I'm watchin for dyeing, I have color india ink to test and use once I find what the vehicle is for wood dyeing, 4th fuzzy descrip and now I am here to hear about that, the black bow did make me click too, hope it is not just clear covering on that bow.
Tim S. ArtistMcc
Not sure what you are talking about. Did not dye, the black is the fiberglass lamination.
Dyeing wood bye, is pretty straight forward to do
This perfect bow to me
Use msg and overlay with thin aluminum
very good job
I´m trying to make an IPE bow with hand tools. Spent over 20 hours on it and it does not look lake a bow yet.... lol
Greg where did you get the kit or materials for the build? That was very cool, nice job!!!
Bingham Archery Products. They sell it as parts or as a kit.
Greg, thanks!
Great work!! I think that wood is shedua though not bocote
Great job Greg, I've been thinking of building one for a while and this really helped my research. Where did you get the components? Seems like the most critical part is getting the fades right on the riser. I was wondering if you got it that way or you had to shape it to size.
Thanks
I bought The Kit for a "Hybrid Long Bow" from Bingham Bows (Did not use their plans though), Cost about $360. Comes with everything for the bow. The only thing you will need to purchase is plywood for the forms. The riser comes as a block, the wooden lams are pre-planed.
As for the fades, in my test runs, the air hose did not close the fades. There was a huge gap. My solution was to heavily tape it down (You tape it down just to hold it in place), til the Gap was gone.
The fades are one key, the other is to make the lower section of the form as perfect as possible (smooth lines, as straight as possible) and to ensure that the riser fit on that bottom form really, really well, no gaps.
Ahh, so the fade on the riser has to fit the lower former just right. Sure, makes sense.
Thanks again
One thing I know about building that kind of bow is when removing the epoxy sand on the sides not belly and back
You want the top limb to bend a little further than the bottom
How was the house we constructed
I saw a Ben Pearson left handed Bow last week in a pawn shop. I'm not sure of the model, It looked to be at least 62". The owner offered me a $30 price. I'm wondering if that's a good price or a really good price? I'm not a left handed shooter but can't pass up a deal on a nice recurve whether I shoot it or not.
$30 is a deal. Most go for at least 120 on ebay.
Sharp edges at ends of top fprm need to taken off so not to cause excessive wear on hose after multiple use.
Hi expert is G10 material suitable for bow limb ? Can't find a proper material : ( ..... thks expert
Chea Chyang
Hello,
I’m not the person to ask. I really do not know much at all about strings. Speak to Jeff at “The Nocking Point” or Jim at “Archery Adventures”. They make and sell strings and would be of much more help than I
This type of epoxy Ea 40 is not available in my city ... Is it possible to use another type?
There is others out there. Sure you could find some with a quick search on Google.
you make a nice archery let me have one of them i am your fan :)
Great video 👍
do you need a heat box to make a laminated bow or is it optional?
Great Question,
No, one is not mandatory. However, room temperature is important, a minimum of at least 70 F is required. Go under that and you are tempting fate.
You can "make" one in may ways, just be creative.
I learned a lot.
Greg, how much in equipment and materiels would you estimate? If someone has nothing and wants to do this.
Tough but good question.
Tool wise you will need at least a saw to cut the form and riser. Drill for the form, and Files and Sandpaper for the rest.
To make the form: Plywood is best, but you can use other woods. Instead of the air hose you can use rubber straps made from inner tubes
As for parts of the bow, you can save money on riser material, but the lamination you would have to buy.
The process is actually quite basic.
Where do you get the fittings for the fire hose. What are they called
binghamprojects.com/
This is where
Black Hawk stile💪 😀👍
Recommended hose pressure?
The wood in the middle of the limbs is that a consistant thickness from the riser all the way up? Or does it taper out?
Can be done either way. One this one i did tapered. On all the rest parallel.
Okay thank you
I didn't see the materials , wood or fiberglass laminated formed and glued, but the bow already formed and for final finish.
The reason is simply, there are plenty of videos out there that show all that. Pretty boring stuff.
B-E-A-UTIFUL!
It's not winter.......Yet...... "Winter is coming" ;-)
I'll ship it 1st thing tomorrow!
UK ARCHERS. Darwen and Blackburn. It was plain to see there was no strength in the limbs when your strung it. also i see buckles at the start of the limbs. overall a goood start. id go again but this time build it all up in thin laminates of diff woods. bamboo is a nice one, each laminate a few mm thick. i can see there is no strenth where the limbs exstend from the riser.. there is a video of a pro maker showing how they make theres and from the way i see you used the pump you seen it to.. he smacks all of the glass of with a dead blow hammer rubber ended. next time do it how he does in in the factory. did you put in at least one laminate of carbon? ... come of fella i see al your bows you made your no noob. i shoot recurve btw... i wana see a pro finish.. like i said good first go.. my first electric guitar. took me 2 years. but at least i sold if for 500 pounds. so first attempts aint no excuse :P btw are you a cop b,a,c ? or was that a joke.????.. well i was suprised to see the power from when you first strung it...seems ok now.... not bad.... o yea your supost to tape it all the way along then wrap it with clingfilm hard to get them laminates down solid. if you would of done that im sure you would of got a better poundage. im a give it 7.5 out of 10.. terrible finish. no polish..after all that..id have looking like glass... anyway have a good shoot... you gona be good shooting that all day i guess ? or tired towards the night time...?
Where do you buy fiberglass strips?
Many Places online. 3Rivers Archery, Bingham Projects, Bear Paw, KustomKing Archery, to name a few
What kind of tube did you use to inflate in the form?
I used a fire hose.
Try a horse hair brush with your poly
Did you get the strings I sent you?
Pull the fence out on the sawsaw.
You remi d me of Mike Burchin.
Clamps will work better then hose
Really? Why do you say that?
Jeff James - Yeah, Jeff...Why do you say that?
??
How about a 3 pc takedown recurve?
Made one already. In fact. this Sundays video is about me shooting it.
3D Archery nice.thanks Greg.will wait for it.
Very good 👍 I've just started a short series on the steps in building a longbow. No talking just short segments.
Check it out
Gregore Do You Sell This Bow?
Sorry, but no. I make one from time to time as a gift or to test different design properties
3D archery take a look at how acoustic guitars are made than Implement that method
The one limb is shorter than he other
What type of glue do you use ?
emcdkf y
EA40 Epoxy
Thank you very much
how many inches
62" Bow
Haha! "So much for that bright idea"! Haha!
Metal wood weigh a tun.
Y0U REMIND ME 0F A FELL0W TUBER CALLED "AQUA CHIGGER"
What? He has waaay more hair and most importantly he has 953,000 subscribers!
I live in PA Clearfield county
Going to ETAR? I will, if you like we can meet and shoot together.
What County are you in? I want to lean how to build bows,I been a wood worker all my life. I used a compound bow for years but I been using a crossbow because of really bad back and neck problems. Take care great channel.
Al Va
I live in Dutchess County in NY. Bingham products sells a great starter kit. That is what I used to build this bow. It takes you step by step through the process.
I'm not sure where that's at I been to Horse heads and up to the Glen a few times. I would like to make a homemade bow just to see if I can do it and hunt with it I have all the equipment so I been thinking about it
Some of this video is really helpful, but some of this is so cringe.
Recip saw instead of a jigsaw?
Metal instead of the forms? Are you not using 11 ply? Talk about something that's really not affected by moisture - or are you using it underwater? If you're that worried about wood movement just seal the forms after you make them. I mean, you're cutting these things with a jigsaw and hand sanding them, your precision isn't going to be really high to start with, wood movement in the form is near the bottom of the list of things to worry about.
Another user mentioned about sanding and where to sand when tillering.
The end product looked solid!
Not sure about your comment about preferring a metal form. It is a far better material to work with. I still would prefer to have the form made out of metal and no, water has nothing to do with it.
Sorry to disappoint but I did a really nice job using the sander, the lines were straight and there where and still are no issues (18 bows in), so I do not see you point on this.
@@3DArchery Why metal? You say water has nothing to do with it, but you're not going to experience appreciable wood movement in a jig like this - and you can seal it to help prevent that also. The point is metal doesn't really provide you anything here.
I also don't even begin to understand how you'd rather use a reciprocating saw over a jigsaw.
I do think the bow turned out really well, and I'm pretty sure I said that in my original comment. I was actually genuinely surprised it turned out that well just with some of the comments you were making during the build, but I can't second guess the end result.
@@sngehl01
Why Metal? Because it is the better choice. Fred bear has been using metal jigs since the 70's, Ben Pearson too. They have used the same jigs since then too. With a wood jig, due to the heat cycles, it will deteriorate over time. Not so with metal.
I used the Jig Saw, I tried the other to answer questions that some might have.
I tried many things that so many "experts" recommend, some worked, others did not.
The video is not a how to, but a guide to let those trying it the first time see the process and get some feedback on it.
Are you a bowyer? If so, I would love to see videos of the bows you built and your process.
Could have saved yourself a lot of time sanding it you had used a router with a straight bit.
Interesting, never thought of that. Spoke to many bowyers and they do no use router. Has to be a reason, thanks for pointing that out. Going to ask them that.
Send me In Brazil
Finger notch........certainly I hope you are not using it as a grip. Never grip a bow. When drawing the bow pressure should be against heel of hand.
Heel? Maybe on a Howard Hill style bow. On any bow with a pistol type grip, the pressure should be evenly spaced on the thumb pad section of the hand and what they call the “lifeline”
sorry. make it square, not level.
Hello can you make a bow to me
Sorry, but I do not sell my bows
The fella does good work . But man o man . Can you please just shut up and build the bow. The narrative kills me , seriously how many times can I roll my eyes . Lol . Nice work tho.
How many times can you roll your eyes?
@@3DArchery every time he got to his third word in every sentence.
@@imperfect-creations.
Ran out of fingers did you? Could always use your toes or this wonderful thing called a crayon.
After 5 min of blablabla i stopped the vid
Karl Nepp
Thanks for sharing that!