How to Build an Electric Skateboard *NEW* DIY Boosted Board
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
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Whoa you guys figured out how to balance the music and dialogue volume
Only took as a year and a half and oh yeah a lot of editing
Just a quick question which has bugged me for while. Im a massive rc fan and own 2 traxxas x maxx's which do 50mph and can pull cars. So Regarding motors in the x max could you use the xmax motors in a electric skateboard. These are the motors Velineon 1600XL Brushless Motors. im Thinking about a unusual build. !
@@customboatscreensolutions5893 Im not familiar with those motors at all but I just looked at them and it looks like the KV is 1600 which is wayyyyy wayyyy too high. Esk8's usually use motors between 140KV-270KV. 190KV is what we usually use
@@customboatscreensolutions5893 the higher the KV, the less the torque, and the higher the top speed. 1600KV is great for pulling a 10kg rc car (I own an 8s xmaxx as well) but it suuuucks for pulling a 70-100kg human... the 8s xmaxx has a 1275kv motor which is better, but still way way too high. You should be looking for 250kv or less.
@@customboatscreensolutions5893 the out-runner style motors used on most boards are really low kv and designed to have more torque than rpm. I'm an rc guy as well but most people dont use rc lipo packs which push way more amps than rigid cells.
the nut from the idler should be on the inside and the bolt head on the outside, the nut wil catch in the grooves giving you easy adjustment with only a turn of the bolt
Wow thanks for the tip, I was really struggling putting the idler on, definitely very helpful advise!
@@DIYesk8Builders No problem dude, Great build!
I don't really Understand why did you use such wide caliber clone trucks ? Just fitting larger motors wont magically increase torque. Instead you could have got the same amount of power using a 6355 or even a 5055 motor.
The battery pack can hardly discharge a Max current of 24A which is way underpowered for a 6374 motor setup unless you increase it to say 60A.
Which means the board has ridicoulusly low power , Almost the same as a wowgo 2s.
If I would have personally wanted to make a DIY Boosted board ( offcourse i want to : ) I would have used regular caliber trucks . Using wide trucks slightly makes the ride feel not so similar to boosted. Anyways Great video !
Hope you upgrade the battery sometime in the future .
Welcome back to the show "I wish I could afford that "
Exway flex is 699 dollars.
This was on my google news feed. Right on
i love how you played the casey nesitat music
The underside of that loaded vanguard is just... 😍😍😍😍
Everytime he talks about the electronics I feel like I'm back in highschool dissociating in calculus. But it's still fun to watch this.
lol yeah maybe we should spend more time covering how we did that
That's one hella clean build
15:40 omg, please preplan your cabling. use heatshrink and add wires to the ends and not mid way with a bit of tape lol.
Any visual demo? I'm interested in building one and want to have an idea on how to add a heatsink in this enclosure
@@617zSmgr No, but leave all your final plugs to the end that require soldering. At least you can reduce the length if needed or slide in an extra cable on the end before heat shrinking the XT90 connector rather than snipping in the middle of the cabling because "it's easier". it's obviously just a missed step and he just decided to "snip here" to add it but do it right first go and keep the wiring neater.
with the heatsink idea, you can but plastic enclosures for cells and ones for ESC etc just like Boosted (separate containers). just cut the slot out for the heatsink but only expose a small amount, not stick it all out. then seal it from water getting in.
the problem then is the flexing of the board will flex the seal so water will become an issue if you go down this route. make the mounts on the enclsure rigid and then you may have a chance.
@@phizicks just rewatched the video with these instructions! Yes I see what you mean now!
If I ever get to building this board I will follow this carefully. Thank you very much!
Wow - I get nervous driving up that hill @18:00. Gotta love all that electric torque!
Yeah its as steep as they come...pretty gnarly
I can see you guys selling these to former Boosted owners that are thinking of jumping ship to Evolve or Chinese sellers. Great work!
For a better booted look you could have go with the new meepo esc case and a wowgo3 battery case
Great video guys! This inspired me to do a boosted board video in the future🤙. I'm surprised that the Sanyo pack would still perform with such low discharge, looking forward to the 40T pack 👍
Thanks! definitely a very cool and fun board to make. Yeah as we ride it more we are starting to see the downsides to the Sanyo Pack. We just got a FOC Box Unity and put it in so now we see the limitations. Definitely want to get my hands on a 10s2p or 12s2p 40T!
The torque vesc's are very reliable if you solder TVS diodes to them and keep the battery amps below 27 per vesc.
would you be open to the idea of a "budget" esk8 build video where you had around 400-600$ as a future video idea where it is still able to hit 20mph?
Sure we can work on that! We are actually doing something similar right now
Swagtron has one in that price range that's pretty not bad. Has remote and weight sensors so you can either control it by shifting your weight front to back or by remote control.
Solid build. You can order a Unity on Aliexpress right, btw.
Can you send a link?
Also, if you like the loaded decks, try a DB coreflex. It's by far the flexiest.
Pretty cool but is it possible to add motor guards and belt guards?
With some different mounts yes
You got a Dremel!
I was so proud to see this too! no more chewing through the case with their teeth! ;)
it truly was a milestone for us
@@DIYesk8Builders 👍😁🤓👏👏
Good thing u had a nice day riding in Oregon no rain for once
It was a very rare day
You guys should do a budget build under 500$!
We are working on that build right now actually!
@@DIYesk8Builders Perfect!
New subcriber 😁 i enjoyed every time i watch you assembling e - skateboard, actually i want to have skate board like that, i hope someday but i cant afford it because its too expensive 😞 hayst..
Hi Bro, Appreciate it if you could turn down the volume more on your videos. I would really love to hear what you say but when the music starts, the sound seems to loud. at least for me
We will definitely try and balance the audio better in future!
Good luck nabbing a Stormcore! Hope you secure an early one. They'll are testing for 20S even?! Jeff is a masterful engineer no doubt. That thing is one hell of a tool.
Haha yes its going to be impossible but maybe sometime in the future when they are more widely available
Pretty cool...
Hey guys great video. Im building a board and i have the same wheel and truck setup as you have here. I am little nervous about the Dremel cutting part. my question is, is the axle integrated into the hanger or is it pressed in. When i cut it will there be some kind of separation between the axle and the hanger? Thanks.
If you are doing this now I would recommend using the boardnamics wheel pulleys! They require no axle shaving!
@@DIYesk8Builders that’s great, is this the right one? Would I use the same belt and all other parts? Thx! boardnamics.com/product/44t-press-fit-wheel-pulley-set-for-diy-or-evolve-boards/
Very nice video you made and that's a great diy electric skateboard.
I think you can still upgrade your wheel,like Cloudwheel,120mm and 105mm.I owned one set for my boosted mini.
yeah we might use some TB 110's on in or BOA's
It would be more amzing if you recreated same shape of boosted remote casing and battery casing and esc casing and etc with 3d shape printed
We did experiment with this and managed to get a good rear enclosure but we didn't have access to a 3d printer large enough for the front battery casing. Also the aluminum casing in this video is much stronger and protective
@@DIYesk8Builders im still happy that you and others out here trying to continue boosted legacy any way possible
@@DIYesk8Builders electric-skateboard.builders/t/simple-3d-printed-nrf-remote-arduino-controlled/28543
@@DIYesk8Builders th-cam.com/users/redirect?redir_token=buL6ngwH6_BO-SpNZ9IPqU5RLPh8MTU5MDMyNjU4N0AxNTkwMjQwMTg3&q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.eboardsperu.com%2Fproduct%2Floaded-vanguard-enclosure-set-10s4p%2F&event=comments&stzid=UgyOOSZqo92cL-TVm894AaABAg
you can make it our of a wooden mould, or multiple 3d sections and then use that as a mould for carbon fibre or plastic.
Great job guys
The aluminum ownboard housings transmit vibrations through the board. I'm looking to replace them with something plastic. Maybe something like the backfire plastic battery box. It's kind of sad that my only other option is to build a flexible battery pack and also build a flexy enclosure.
Great video! Would this fit on a loaded poke deck?
No idea, probably would be a tight fit. the purpose of the dual enclosure system is to have flex though
Might be a good idea to get the pulley to run more centered on the belt. Other than that. Great build.
Yeah we slightly adjusted it off camera, but definitely is a good idea
Well done
Hi,
Just curious re advantages/disadvantages re putting motors inside the wheels as opposed to hanging out the rear of the board,
Martyn
Hi Martyn! I would say that both are viable options. I think that tucked under provides much more a stealth look. However, under the board the motors are closer to the ground and can thus get hit by rocks. Rear mounted motors are higher off soothed avoid more of the rocks hitting them, however they are left out exposed if they were to get hit from behind or crashed backwards in a curve. Rear mounted also means you can't stand the board on its back nose anymore without scudding up the mounts. Honestly prefer rear right now, but it's a fine line
What did you guys use as spacers on your front trucks? Bunch of washer or extra Bering.
Extra metal bearing spacer.
Love it, it came out great guys!
Nice build! I could be wrong, but could the issue with the wheel/tuck fitment be caused by the bearing in between the wheel and the pulley? I thought you didn't need that third bearing in the middle of the two others. It looks like on the pulley there's a raised lip that's blocked by the inner wheel pulley.
Without the third bearing the pulley would get pushed into the hanger and its diameter isn't big enough to just sit over it. Definitely needs the bearing. Clever idea though
Hey dude! Fellow PDX builder. Where do you ride normally? Im in NE and my buddies and I are pretty active in the SE and Hollywood areas.
Hey! Usually ride in SW and NW around Hoyt Arboretum/Washington Park dropping into downtown
@@DIYesk8Builders Ah damn, youre clear on the other side of the river. Do you go to the OMSI rides?
Yeah we have been to a couple but we don't go often. Definitely trying to show up more once they start up again!
i dont know but the belt tensioner is on the wrong side, youll wear and stress them out faster and run into problems.
Yeah we have actually changed it wince the filming of the vid
Hello, would it be possible to get a standard model e-longboard and stick 6' rubber wheels to it? Every model with those wheels is way more expensive than others with similar specs (more than the 100$ margin those wheels and adapters might cost)
It all depends on which board you buy. The larger pnuematic tires require wider trucks which are usually found on more expensive boards. You could always build a board for cheaper using those trucks and then use those tires.
nice!
Since you guys used longer trucks and bigger wheels, could have chosen the 42 inch vanguard instead of the 38 one. Also, on the boosted board they used flat copper wires that ran through the skateboard that doesn't require routing.
Yeah we considering that but we wanted the flex 3. Definitely could have used flat wires, but we already had the ones we used on hand
Yu An Shi i’m pretty sure boosted routed the wires in the board similar to what was done in this video, although I do think they were flat so the channel is not as deep
@@terfz Yea, well the unproven benefit of that is more structural integrity of the board and also easier for DIY
@@alexshi9320 I like that idea. I see the wires run along the top under the grip tape. How would you run the wires so that there’s no bump on the top of the board where the wire runs? It’s hard from this video to figure out how boosted obscured the wires. m.th-cam.com/video/klIWLlJXplY/w-d-xo.html
This board is waiting to get shot circuit
Pls seal or tape the exposed wires pls
All the wires are sealed we just didn't show all of it in the video because it was getting too long haha
DIY esk8 Builders thank god, I am just a electrical freak. Stay safe and keep making videos man
Does the routed out board deck for the wires cause some durability issues with the board. Could it crack?
Definitely could make it weaker but we have no had any issues thus far
@@DIYesk8Builders yeah the looks are worth it
Can you guys make a board with the Flipsky 6384 190kv motor?
Yeah sometime in the future!
I have been looking for a DIY board that fit my needs of loving the flexy Boosted V2 while improving specs. I think this might be it!
I do have a question about the build of this board as someone who is still unfamiliar with specific parts and comparability. Would it be possible to incorporate working Boosted Mini X parts into a build like this? If I liked the remote, or the ability to reverse easily. Can be done, possible but alternatives, not worth the time, or no?
I would say that its definitely possible but I would be unsure how to do that since I've never been inside a Boosted.
Boosted locks down their board from the battery to the motors to the remote, I doubt you can use the boosted remote as is without completely replacing the internal components of both it and the ESC.
If you figure out how to reverse engineer boosted’s tech so third-party stuff can be used seamlessly, you could make a lot of $$ or get really popular within the community haha
Edit: apparently the Trampa Wand is a great remote, and has a reverse feature (i think it is similar to boosteds but definitely research)
why not get a Y splitter instead of 2 VESCs?
A Y splitter for where? Each motor requires its own VESC
Will 80 mm kegal wheels work?
Yes
For a dual 6374 12s config what would be optimal max amps per motor? My guess is 40A per motor, but I can't find any battery with 80A discharge
Yeah there's not going to y many packs with that much. We have found that having packs that can do around 35A continuous and 60-80 peak is more than enough for dual 6374's. Of curse more would be even better but we have found that amount to be good
Battery and motor amps are not the same thing. A good target would be >=50 battery amps. You more or less always put the motors to 80 no matter what battery you have.
Where do you plan on buying you 10s2p 40t pack? I had a look at meepo but it only puts out 30amps. Im in the market for two which I plan on linking together in parallel to get more range ✌
Ownboard has one right now
@@DIYesk8Builders sweet, do you know what the bms max amp output is set to on the ownboard packs?
I am building a board and i am wondering if i need the set screws for my motor pulleys, the kit i got didnt come with them, are they essential? I noticed you didn’t show putting them in. Thanks
Yes they are pretty important to prevent your motor pulley from sliding up and down the shaft.
DIY esk8 Builders where can i buy some since mine didnt come with any? Do they just screw into the hole tightly or is there a trick to it?
Yeah they just go in tightly to provide pressure of the motor shaft. Not sure where you can buy some because it all depends on which brand it is
Who is we did you have a friend helping??
There are two of us, you just hear one of us in the vids
When is the Demon 2.0 video coming ?
Around a month or so, maybe less
Woaw ! That is a really scary built ! How much you sell it ? $ 49,99 ? I guess you would never get back to your home without a good cab driver.
That axel nut is not safe homie lol
Yeah we didn't film it but we shaved it down quite a it more. The camera gets in the way so we stopped filming once we figured the footage would help you get the gist of it
I would like to make my own eskate but im 110kg what type of piece?
You would need a pretty stiff and strong deck
DIY esk8 Builders yes please
A boosted clone, should NOT have the boosted price. What a bummer.
It’s more powerful than a boosted board
ZE Pranks That’s true but, $1599.99? For 26mph 12 miles? An RS is $930 45 mph & 20 miles range
I mean you can build this board for 1100-1200 which is considered less than a boosted stealth was and it has better specs so its a better boosted clone at a better price. But you are right, you could find stuff cheaper with great specs. Using things like the vanguard ($174 alone) really drive up the cost
He starts the video talking about Boosted going out of business and how you can make your own if you wanted one.
If you want to clone the experience of riding a boosted board (and more), it will require high-quality parts because boosted boards are top of the line (excusing the motor noises and RLOD xr batteries on occasion).
This board seems amazing and I hope to build something similar, but maybe with a different ESC/remote. I own a BB V2 D+ XR and I love it, and hope to be able to recreate the experience if/when the battery/esc dies on my boosty board
Don't use Ownboard batteries! They will be defective very soon!
I expected this pack to be just like that and be awful but so far it has actually be ver impressive
Please change the Enclosures. You can 3D print some or get high quality copies from www.eboardsperu.com/product/loaded-vanguard-enclosure-set-10s4p/ I would also 3D print the Remote.The Firefly NRD remote also looks more like the boosted but with an actual Display. electric-skateboard.builders/t/simple-3d-printed-nrf-remote-arduino-controlled/28543 Boosted also used 2 different tones of grip tape on the Plus/V2. Or you could go for a Stealth look a like with Grey Wheels which would much cooler tbh.
Great job on the Audio Voice Over, and music choices btw
We tried 3D printing some and got a great rear enclosure one but it was too small to fit all of the electronics. Battery enclosure way too big to be 3D printed on any of the printers we have access to. Looked into e-boosted but they're so expensive. Firefly does looks sick but is also much more work - definitely want to try and make one some day
Do you really think you wheel nuts are far enough on? I wouldn't want to loose a back wheel at 26mph.
In the video we only filmed a little bit. We actually took a little motor of the hanger off so that the nuts go on much further
@@DIYesk8Builders great, loving the videos. Keep up the good work.
Everything super awesome except those nuts holding the wheels on were not as on as i'd be comfortable with lol... were half not even threaded! Yikes!
For the filming we showed it like that, but we changed it soon after
Dude boosted board is not going out of business
They pretty much did
Bruh if u do diy this thing can explode and burn
Ok, so I believe I am headed to your store. however, I don't know this stuff too well. I have a V1 BoostedBoard that is dead and won't charge. I believe the Battery and Vesc box are what I need to replace. The motors are good as well as wheels and trucks (and Deck). What would you recommend? Thanks!
A battery replacement is probably all that you need, however I am not expert on boosted boards in particular.