I have shopped, online, at your site, love the products, especially the SoHo line. I have only recently discovered MikeNotJerry. I wish some comedians I've watched were as funny but to the point and as offensively inoffensive as Mike is. He has helped me in ways in art that I have needed for a while. I realize that Mike has a nice editing crew, I wish I could get some of the "Mike's Lost Tapes"...
Wow! I have never heard so many mistakes and misconceptions about oil painting in my life! I think that oil painters listen to old wives tales, believe them, and teach them to other oil painters. This video is proof of that.
You always make my day! How cool that my teen oil painting class tonight is on this topic! Another point worth mentioning is in order for the first layers to be lean, the amount of paint used in the first layers also matters. Big thick globs will take longer to dry than thin paint spread out. So Fat over Lean (what the layers contain such as oils or mediums), Thick over Thin (the physical amount of paint in the layer), and Slow Drying over Fast Drying (as far as the attributes of the paint/ pigments such as slow drying Alizarin Crimson). I found the point on not using thinners in the first layers interesting. I've done it for years and have never had any lifting - perhaps it's just a matter of time! I also use alkyd oils since I work in layers. I have used Liquin in the past but I think I'll give some of your suggestions a try to see if I notice a difference. Especially the Spike Oil. Keep up the good work!
My biggest issue is with the solvents. Turpentine is bad, odorless spirits are bad even something like Gamsol. I'll give spike oil a try. Very informative, thanks.
Whatever happened to the days when we just blocked with turps, painted with linseed oil, finished with a coat of damar, and clean up with turps, soap and water? Vot iss dis fat und lean?
I like the idea of the pre mixed mediums. I have been using gamsol as my lean and 50% linseed/50% gamsol as my fat. But it still sinks in. She is right about varnishing over a painting that isn't painted with the correct medium. The sunk parts will still be sunk, even after gloss varnish. So I think I am going to look into these two products. Also it speeds and simplifies the painting process, and that's something we all need to strive for. Simplify, Simplify, Simplify!
I love Fridays and not just for the obvious reasons but because your videos Mike mate, I love them. Always learning something new and you and your team just make the videos so much fun. Love you guys. I got to say this video was a bit more taxing on my old brain, but in fairness, day changing to night can be an increbily taxing event for my brain to process. You guys must have so much fun making these videos.
Does fat over lean still apply with water miscible oil paint? ( like Holbein duo Aqua, Cobra or Winsor and Newton Artisan range?) and how does that work? What is fat or lean in those scenarios?
Water should only be used for clean up when using water mixable oils, not as a medium. Using it as a medium will dull your paint and damage the paint film. The same rules apply for water mixable oils as they do for regular oils when it comes to painting fat over lean.
Has anyone tried the Chelsea Classical Studio Fat/Lean mediums with Holbein Duo Aquas? I've seen some reviews of other brand's products not working well with the Holbein. Can anyone recommend what mediums to use to thin Holbein Duo Aquas for good fat over lean practices? There are only a few Holbein Duo Aqua branded mediums -- would the painting oil, or quick dying liquid be a suitable thinner/lean medium?
Okay, trying to "get it". Layer one spike only with paint. Let dry. Layer two do I mix the lean mixture into the oil paint and then apply. Layer three and soooooooo oooooon at which point or "layers" do I add the fat mixture and do I continue to add more mixture to paint until it's mostly fat . I like to paint in glazes. How do this work from a glazing perspective . Great video .
The way I remember fat over lean while I'm painting is...I paint with acrylics (I'm sorry.) On a more serious note I wonder why no other companies make their oil mediums so easy to understand, so I might try it now! Does the fat over lean rule apply with water-soluble oils as well?
I've seen those Chelsea Studio mediums advertised on Jerry's website and in the store. Can they be used the same way with Water Mixable Oil Paints. (I only use water for clean-up. I don't thin the paint with water.) I have a Lukas paint set, and a few from other brands, including W&N Artisan, Grumbacher Max, etc. I am a novice at oil painting, so I'm trying to get this "fat over lean" concept down. I have some of the Lukas mediums. Thanks for the video; I always learn a thing or two from your videos - sometimes helpful things! (😁)
So, if you add non water mixable mediums in to your paint in large enough proportions (some say up to 30%, but it varies) they will lose their water mixable attributes. However, if you are OK with that, you can still use the mediums with water mixable oil paints the same you would with regular paints. You may just have to clean up with a solvent like the spike oil, or there is a Chelsea Classical Brush Cleaner as well.
I know I'm about 3 years late but I'm having a problem with paint staying on my canvas. Like when I get my base layer down and try to paint over it, it will come off onto my brush instead of leaving the new color down.
Ever since I tried making hard tack unsupervised at home in middle school and melted a 12" circle in the carpet in front of the stove, all art supplies have been dry or water media. My relatives still talk about that. No chemistry set for me.
I enjoy heavy impasto oil painting. I always start with an underpainting that's fairly lean before caking on with a palette knife. To achieve that heavy impasto affect, I use mediums like cold wax or oil gels. And sometimes just straight paint out of the tube. I never had any issues with oil mediums with my style, although I don't have any works in oil over a year old. When do these issues typically begin to appear?
Depending on how thick you are painting, oil paintings can take 6 months to over a year to full dry or "oxidize." However, usually with thick impasto the things you may first notice would show up before the 1 year period, such as shrinking or cracking (if there is an issue). Regarding the sheen, sinking can happen over longer periods of time. The best way to avoid sinking, out side of making sure you are painting fat over lean, is to use oil primed linen and not acrylic gesso, as it absorbs the oil paint, causing dull spots over time. Hope this helps Ron!
Ron Hochhalter ...I am more confused with this guy's demo and explanations....and I always was taught that for impasto, paint is used straight out of the tube without a medium.
Are these also made for water mixable oil paint? Oil paint is new to me hoping for more videos especially everything I need to know about water mixable oil. Thank you
This may not be your wheelhouse as it involves colored pencils. However, I figure it's worth a shot to ask. I see many, many people recommending solvents like odorless mineral spirits for blending colored pencils. It works, but I would love to move to something nontoxic. Does anyone have some good recommendations?
That was a very good and informative video. Thank you. I had two teachers teaching oil till now but non of them told me about lean and fat. We don't get the fat medium and lean medium where I m from(India). So I have to go through the messy job of mixing them by my self...
What a weird animal to be scared of lol. Like when are you likely to meet an ostrich in everyday life lol. Why do they scare you Mike? Dogs are my worse enemy. They are so cute yet they scare the shit out of me.
I would check with the manufacturer, but liquin (original) is a fast drying additive medium for oil paints. Things that speed up drying time are generally best used in early layers of painting.
Horribly confusing, too much babble and confusing order. Way too much focus on what not to do and hard to find clear information on the correct things to do. Makes me not want to use oils
Enjoy Mike Not Jerry's humor? Be sure to check out his TH-cam Channel! th-cam.com/users/itsmikenotjerry
I have shopped, online, at your site, love the products, especially the SoHo line. I have only recently discovered MikeNotJerry. I wish some comedians I've watched were as funny but to the point and as offensively inoffensive as Mike is. He has helped me in ways in art that I have needed for a while. I realize that Mike has a nice editing crew, I wish I could get some of the "Mike's Lost Tapes"...
Wow! I have never heard so many mistakes and misconceptions about oil painting in my life! I think that oil painters listen to old wives tales, believe them, and teach them to other oil painters. This video is proof of that.
Please explain!
I have rarely been this confused. :-)
#advancedartistproblem lol
You always make my day! How cool that my teen oil painting class tonight is on this topic! Another point worth mentioning is in order for the first layers to be lean, the amount of paint used in the first layers also matters. Big thick globs will take longer to dry than thin paint spread out. So Fat over Lean (what the layers contain such as oils or mediums), Thick over Thin (the physical amount of paint in the layer), and Slow Drying over Fast Drying (as far as the attributes of the paint/ pigments such as slow drying Alizarin Crimson). I found the point on not using thinners in the first layers interesting. I've done it for years and have never had any lifting - perhaps it's just a matter of time! I also use alkyd oils since I work in layers. I have used Liquin in the past but I think I'll give some of your suggestions a try to see if I notice a difference. Especially the Spike Oil. Keep up the good work!
My biggest problem is lack of talent
Oh boy! I don't think I'll ever try oil painting 😳
Waao... Certainly the right balance of fun and serious ...
My biggest issue is with the solvents. Turpentine is bad, odorless spirits are bad even something like Gamsol. I'll give spike oil a try.
Very informative, thanks.
Whatever happened to the days when we just blocked with turps, painted with linseed oil, finished with a coat of damar, and clean up with turps, soap and water? Vot iss dis fat und lean?
This video was so massively helpful!
I like the idea of the pre mixed mediums. I have been using gamsol as my lean and 50% linseed/50% gamsol as my fat. But it still sinks in. She is right about varnishing over a painting that isn't painted with the correct medium. The sunk parts will still be sunk, even after gloss varnish. So I think I am going to look into these two products. Also it speeds and simplifies the painting process, and that's something we all need to strive for. Simplify, Simplify, Simplify!
I was pecked stop by an ostrich at a mini farm set up at a mall. I was so scared. I feel you lol 😝
I got it! Yes, you explained perfectly! Thanks! It is not an easy thing to explain as it is certainly involved, but you made it clear to me.
I love Fridays and not just for the obvious reasons but because your videos Mike mate, I love them. Always learning something new and you and your team just make the videos so much fun. Love you guys. I got to say this video was a bit more taxing on my old brain, but in fairness, day changing to night can be an increbily taxing event for my brain to process. You guys must have so much fun making these videos.
Lol, that's why I prefaced it with "advanced" artist problem.
Awesome explanation! thanks hadn't heard this anywhere!
I've never been so grateful I don't paint with oil 🤓 !
Makes me glad I use acrylics....
Does fat over lean still apply with water miscible oil paint? ( like Holbein duo Aqua, Cobra or Winsor and Newton Artisan range?) and how does that work? What is fat or lean in those scenarios?
Water should only be used for clean up when using water mixable oils, not as a medium. Using it as a medium will dull your paint and damage the paint film. The same rules apply for water mixable oils as they do for regular oils when it comes to painting fat over lean.
my God.....this could send me mad....guess it's acrylics for me! lol
its easier than it sounds trust me
Has anyone tried the Chelsea Classical Studio Fat/Lean mediums with Holbein Duo Aquas? I've seen some reviews of other brand's products not working well with the Holbein.
Can anyone recommend what mediums to use to thin Holbein Duo Aquas for good fat over lean practices? There are only a few Holbein Duo Aqua branded mediums -- would the painting oil, or quick dying liquid be a suitable thinner/lean medium?
Very useful informations. Thanks!
How about a video explaining how it works with water soluble oil paint?
Okay, trying to "get it". Layer one spike only with paint. Let dry. Layer two do I mix the lean mixture into the oil paint and then apply. Layer three and soooooooo oooooon at which point or "layers" do I add the fat mixture and do I continue to add more mixture to paint until it's mostly fat . I like to paint in glazes. How do this work from a glazing perspective . Great video .
The way I remember fat over lean while I'm painting is...I paint with acrylics (I'm sorry.)
On a more serious note I wonder why no other companies make their oil mediums so easy to understand, so I might try it now!
Does the fat over lean rule apply with water-soluble oils as well?
Yes!
I've seen those Chelsea Studio mediums advertised on Jerry's website and in the store. Can they be used the same way with Water Mixable Oil Paints. (I only use water for clean-up. I don't thin the paint with water.) I have a Lukas paint set, and a few from other brands, including W&N Artisan, Grumbacher Max, etc. I am a novice at oil painting, so I'm trying to get this "fat over lean" concept down. I have some of the Lukas mediums. Thanks for the video; I always learn a thing or two from your videos - sometimes helpful things! (😁)
So, if you add non water mixable mediums in to your paint in large enough proportions (some say up to 30%, but it varies) they will lose their water mixable attributes. However, if you are OK with that, you can still use the mediums with water mixable oil paints the same you would with regular paints. You may just have to clean up with a solvent like the spike oil, or there is a Chelsea Classical Brush Cleaner as well.
I know I'm about 3 years late but I'm having a problem with paint staying on my canvas. Like when I get my base layer down and try to paint over it, it will come off onto my brush instead of leaving the new color down.
Ever since I tried making hard tack unsupervised at home in middle school and melted a 12" circle in the carpet in front of the stove, all art supplies have been dry or water media. My relatives still talk about that. No chemistry set for me.
So...can you use spike oil to thin watersoluable oils? Thanks
I enjoy heavy impasto oil painting. I always start with an underpainting that's fairly lean before caking on with a palette knife. To achieve that heavy impasto affect, I use mediums like cold wax or oil gels. And sometimes just straight paint out of the tube. I never had any issues with oil mediums with my style, although I don't have any works in oil over a year old. When do these issues typically begin to appear?
Depending on how thick you are painting, oil paintings can take 6 months to over a year to full dry or "oxidize." However, usually with thick impasto the things you may first notice would show up before the 1 year period, such as shrinking or cracking (if there is an issue). Regarding the sheen, sinking can happen over longer periods of time. The best way to avoid sinking, out side of making sure you are painting fat over lean, is to use oil primed linen and not acrylic gesso, as it absorbs the oil paint, causing dull spots over time. Hope this helps Ron!
more confused than ever!!!
What are you confused about? I'd be happy to help.
Ron Hochhalter ...I am more confused with this guy's demo and explanations....and I always was taught that for impasto, paint is used straight out of the tube without a medium.
I paint like the Impressionist (Alla Prima) I use no painting medium when painting avoiding whole fat over thin thing.
Are these also made for water mixable oil paint? Oil paint is new to me hoping for more videos especially everything I need to know about water mixable oil. Thank you
Gypsy,
We sure do! Please see:
th-cam.com/video/MU-6yVemLRk/w-d-xo.html
So let me get this straight: it is not possible to save a “sunken” matte paint and a bunch of artists have been lying to us all these years?
o for Alla Prima LOL, thank informative info
This may not be your wheelhouse as it involves colored pencils. However, I figure it's worth a shot to ask. I see many, many people recommending solvents like odorless mineral spirits for blending colored pencils. It works, but I would love to move to something nontoxic. Does anyone have some good recommendations?
Thanks
By brother has that tshirt
What if you build more than 3 layers?
just add a little more oil than on the previous one
I thought the only reason for fat over lean is to avoid future cracking…
a good explanation on fat over lean.
btw- it is pronounced eem-you...not ee-moo! its an emu not a bloody cow!
That was a very good and informative video. Thank you. I had two teachers teaching oil till now but non of them told me about lean and fat. We don't get the fat medium and lean medium where I m from(India). So I have to go through the messy job of mixing them by my self...
I dont have to figure out what 15 % of 100 is well i guess that would be 15 % 😂😂
What a weird animal to be scared of lol. Like when are you likely to meet an ostrich in everyday life lol. Why do they scare you Mike? Dogs are my worse enemy. They are so cute yet they scare the shit out of me.
I go to Disney more than I care to admit lol.
I guess im early.
So much random talk. Really gets annoying. Instead of right to the point.
Is liquin a fat or lean?
I would check with the manufacturer, but liquin (original) is a fast drying additive medium for oil paints. Things that speed up drying time are generally best used in early layers of painting.
Not a well structured tutorial. Takes too long and it's convoluted to explain the issue.
Horribly confusing, too much babble and confusing order. Way too much focus on what not to do and hard to find clear information on the correct things to do. Makes me not want to use oils
Thanks for babbling and being confusing.
too much bullshitting.