Tip #1 put your oil paints in the freezer to keep them from oxidizing. Tip #2 instead of throwing your excess paint away mix it all together for beautiful grays and store in a tube or airtight container.
I mix my paints on freezer paper - each color on its own sheet and when finished for the day use a palett knife to scrape into a neat blob which i then cover with a piece of plastic wrap to keep air out. I can the stack multiple colors/sheets on top of each other and store in a plastic container which i store in my small studio refridge. The paints keep for mo ths depending on any mediums i have added.
He is so right about the palette! I've been teaching color theory for years and here are my specific pigment recommendations for the limited palette he's proposing: Titanium White PW6 Ultramarine Blue (cool) PB29 Cerulean Blue (warm) PB36 Quinacridone Magenta or violet* (cool) PV19 Cadmium Red, preferably light, but medium is okay (warm) PR108 Hansa Yellow (cool) PY3 Cadmium Yellow, preferably light, but medium is okay (warm) PY35 Yellow Ochre (warm) PY43 Don't go with Umber. Even in the better brands, it's often made with inferior pigments or by mixing pigments, which you can do for yourself. All of the colors I recommended are lightfast as long as you're using a respectable brand that uses the correct pigments -- don't get anything with the word "hue" in the name; it's a cheap substitute pigment! Also, there are only a very few more paints you might want add later. At the very, very most you should have 12 colors in your paintbox. Artists who have more usually don't know how to mix for themselves, or don't know that many colors are made with lesser pigments that won't stand up to time very well. If you want to branch out from the above palette (and honestly, you may never need to), you can consider the following: Raw Sienna - has a clarity that can't be obtained through mixing other colors together (warm) PBR7 Burnt Sienna - same qualities as raw, but darker (warm) PBR7 Phthalo Green - good base for landscape mixtures; keeps your colors clear! (cool) PG7 or PG36 Cadmium Orange - mixed oranges tend to be dull; sunsets, oranges, etc. should be painted bright & clear! (warm) PO20 * Quinacridone magenta/violet is a very cool red that replaces Alizarin Crimson which is dark. You should always start _bright_ ! With mixing, you can move a paint from bright to dark, but not the other way around. You can mimic Alizarin Crimson starting with Quinacridone Magenta but you CANNOT do it the other way around. You can't get that pure, lovely, rich, vibrant, rosy orchid color out of Alizarin Crimson via mixing. Cannot. (And no, white won't help; adding white to lighten a dark pigment like Alizarin tints it, which means the chroma -- saturation -- comes down and when we're talking about reds, white also changes the nature of the color in a way that we experience as a new color - pink.)
Since the war started in sudan, we were displaced from our home, exiled to the outskirts of the country, i left behind my studio filled of my beautiful paintings and expensive art materials that ive gathered over the years, where i am now, "good" paint and painting material does not exist, but that didn't stop me, i kept painting with cheap paint, bad paper, no canvas, kids brushes.
Your resilience and dedication to your craft despite the challenging circumstances are inspiring! It's incredible to see how your passion for art continues to shine through, even when faced with such adversity. Your ability to create beauty with limited resources is a testament to your talent and creativity. Keep painting and expressing yourself-it's a powerful way to transcend boundaries and connect with others!
@@JerrysArtarama thank you for your kind words, one thing is for certain, I will never stop painting. believe it or not, this war has been an inspiration, although my art seems a bit gruesome and depressing, but nevertheless reflects what I have seen and witnessed, the epitomy of human evil, heaps and lumps of people reduced to basically roadkill by the side of the roads, paramilitary forces looting and destroying infrastructure and homes for fun and because they can. One would say that the first casualties of war is truth I have seen many artists and cultural professionals being targeted and even killed for their provocative messages in their art.... Anyways I could go on and on, but thank you again for your amazing content!
Don't over mix your paint. Mix the two hues by about half way and let the individual hues be visible in the mix. It adds life to the color being mixed.
Over mixing is a whole problem on it's own. The more you mix the color the duller your colors actually turn out. They might be more "even," but can lack visual interest.
@@MikeNotJerry All this is nonsense. Color mixing is just that, mixing and obtaining a color. If you want an effect of multiple colors then perhaps this technique of "half-mixing" the color will be fine. I get so tired of hearing people provide bad advice. The correct advice is to correctly mix an interesting color. Jesus.
One of my teachers had us line theses paint brush pots you have shown with a small plastic bag. Same results but sludge settles in bottom of bag. Pour off clear paint for use, no mess in bottom of pot.
My friend wanted to paint. I told him go ahead and use whatever you want of my paints. He took one look at what paints I had and quickly said he couldn't because I didn't have enough colors. I had titanium white mars black, red, yellow, ultermarrine blue, cobalt blue, yellow ocher, burnt umber and raw umber. I told him you mix to get other colors like yellow and blue for green and ect. I could not even get him to try it. He said he would wait until he could afford to buy all the colors. It never happened. If he had tried he might had been surprised how flexible that palette could be.
That was a basic lesson taught in my classes at college. Start with the basics. Learn to mix colors, especially as you learn and can vary tones. In my later years, I bought more colors but still don’t have nearly what’s available and I am quite okay with it.
If you want to limit your color pallet further you can use a CMY (cyan, magenta and yellow) or a Zorn pallet (titanium white, ivory black, yellow ochre, and cadmium red (vermillion substitute)).
Odd Nerdrum uses that similar limited palette ... all his blues comes from his black and the relationships he creates with his warm tones. I tried it for a while .. but I missed too much my Ultra blue ... I can't do without it.
"CADIUM RED LIGHT" - ALSO, DON'T BE FOOLED, ZORN ALSO USED OTHER PAINTS (TWO FOR SURE; "COBALT BLUE" AND "BURNT UMBER") AND A FEW MORE - WITH THE ZORN PALETTE IT IS *IMPOSSIBLE* TO GET A NICE GREEN OR A NICE BLUE, ZORN DID USE OTHER COLORS, AND IF YOU PAINT MOSTLY PORTRAITS THE ZORN PALETTE IS *GREAT!!!!!!!"* - HAPPY PAINTING, AND REMEMBER; PAINT WHAT YOU LIKE IN THE COLRS YOU LIKE, BE A VAN GOGH!!!!!!! EDIT - WATCH SOME BOB ROSS VIDEOS TOO, IT MIGHT HELP, THEY HELPED ME!!! LOL!!!!!!!
Yes starting with a limited palette make it so much easier to learn!!! Oil painting especially but I'm sure it applies to many mediums as you need to develop a working language of how the medium functions!
Absolutely. Regardless of medium, overwhelming yourself with color options will not only confuse you, but not allow you to take the time to learn your palette and how to mix color.
Honestly some of the best art advice I have heard! Yes, more youtube deals... but also perpetual deals (possibly a smaller discount?) only for youtube... so someone who just finds you a year from now is also made to feel welcome and encouraged to get these supplies from you (not Amazon.)
I agree with all of these tips! But alternatively, when you get an easel, you can get the kind that can be taken apart, put in a bag and traveled with so that you can easily take it places to do plein air as well.
It's drank, but a more coherent structure for the sentence would be "You don't want anyone drinking it." I come to art from a background in grammar, so that opportunity to problem solve actually made me very comfortable.
I made my first abstract paintint on the 30x30cm canvas and I only used a spatula, tried brushes, but then I would see canvas texture, I prefer applying the pain more thickly so you don't see the canvas. Was very easy to use, can fix whatever mistakes you make, because it dries for a week. Acrylics are way harder to work with, if you mix the color, the corners dry up in a minute, you put it on canvas, almost no time to fix the mistake, maybe only to paint it over, a mess and paint wasted. For beginners of course, if you are a pro, you will do everything quickly and it won't be an issue, but the ones who are only beginning, I would only recommend oil paint.
Hey there....I am moving from acrylics over to oil and totally baffled by all the different mediums and oils. Linseed, walnut, gamvar, turpenoid, dms,.....it's all very confusing. Can you do a video like this that explains what all this stuff does and what we really need to get started? BTW....loved my first experience at OAC this month!
Mediums are used to adjust paints> flow,consistency and dry time. There are ‘studio safe’ mediums available for all before mentioned adjustments so if you’re starting out I suggest that be your first requirement. Second would be ‘non yellowing’ mediums. Some types of oil will tend to yellow over time giving your piece an amber tint especially when used as a glazing medium. Third would be drying time of the chosen mediums, alkyd mediums generally allow the paint to become dry to the touch within 12-24 hrs. and you can then progress to the next layer.
Don't over complicate it at first. You don't need mediums, especially starting out. As you learn, you can pick up one or two to adjust to how you like to paint.
I have an unusual suggestion/request for another oil paint topic: Issues with the paint yellowing over time. It seems that leaving them in the dark for too long makes all the lighter colors become a gross yellow color, and from what I've learned, leaving them in the light for a while makes the yellow go away. I'm just curious as to how this happens, and if there's either a way to prevent it, or a better/faster way to fix it?
The yellowing is generally from paints that have traditional linseed oil as the binder. Some brands use clearer oils, like safflower or poppy oils, which don't yellow as much over time. The trade off is that they are less flexible than linseed based oil paints. The reason linseed oil is yellow is because it hasn't been throughly cleaned. The Chelsea Classical Linseed Oil Extra Pale is as clear as it is because it has been cleaned several times for impurities. This means that if you use it as a medium, it will not yellow your paints like a traditional linseed oil, but will maintain paint film flexibility.
I use just 2 types of brushes. A fan brush and a round painting brush. I buy them from small to large for diffrent sizes dipending on canvas the panels that i paint on
Fun fact you can easily fix those cheaper canvas by spraying water on the back of them. Smooths them right out. That being said I still like my gallery wrap!
For paint colors, honestly, there's an extremely successful artist here in Colorado that only uses BLACK with a white canvas for a luminous black and white effect. No white paint. They're brilliant huge paintings.
ODERLESS MINERAL SPIRITS FROM LOEW'S HERE, AND A PINT FRUIT JAR - SOMEBODY NEEDS TO MAKE A *POOR MAN'S PAINTING VIDEO* - LOL!!!!!!! IF THESE SNOWFLAKES WOULD HAVE WATCHED VAN GOGH PAINT (OR RENOIR, MONET, ETC.) THEY WOULD HAVE HAD A KINIPTION FIT - LMAO!!!!!!!
I knew all these already, but a great reminder. I'm going to pick up some of those brush cleaners though because those are nicer than what I've been using.
Heya Mike, sweet video. I do enjoy watching your quick and easy videos. I am able to point others that are constantly asking me questions that I honestly am rather tired of answering. I hope you do a basic supplies list for every medium, you can create videos for everything from watercolor painting to ink block printing! I believe that it is Ok to feature brands, I mean you do sell art supplies you can feature multiple brands when talking about brushes or even paints! Every supply has a pro and con, why not make a video featuring them? I like Charvin because this, but Gamblin is good because of that! You know how to do it! I look forward to seeing how you are going to run with this idea or not. Take care and be safe out there!
Thanks! I will keep this in mind, of course. I don't want to be too "sales-y" for lack of a better term, but I do want to promote products that I personally enjoy and believe in.
Listen. I think I would watch just about anything this dude advertises. There is something real about his personality that I just love. Good on Jerrys. I hope they never get rid of him.
For oil paint color mixing, I suggest two TH-camrs: Draw Mix Paint Florent Farges The both of them show easy and digestible techniques for mixing paints, and Farges also offers incredible courses you can purchase that goes over literally everything. But Draw Mix Paint has a wonderful video where he teaches you how to color-match using 5 basic colors: Titanium White ; Burnt Umber ; Cadmium Yellow Pale ; Permanent Alizarin Crimson, French Ultramarine. This doesn't include super vibrant "neon" colors, which involve a whole different set of special synthetic pigments, but every other color (including grays) can be matched using only these colors. Definitely check out the color mixing video(s) Draw Mix Paint created and follow it. Why does Jerrys Artarama suggest a warm and cool version of colors? It's a decent paint mixing technique which takes away the mystery of trying to make things warm or cool. IMO I like the Draw Mix Paint approach, but this is a viable option as well.
Damn, I am starting learning today and came across this vid. First advice is not to buy cheap products. He pulled out those paints and I looked at mines that I bought the other day and they're the same brand!
i've seen the best painter ever only using synthetic brushes for oil. He preferred synthetic ones. thank you I will buy the lavender and the paint cleaner containers.
Just bought my oil paints from Jerry's, watching this in the meantime while I wait! Got Lukas, an m graham(perelyne maroon, I love it),and some Georgian paint.
I swear I have never loved an ambassador for literally any company the way I love this man. 😂 Hilarious human. Real human. GOOD ON JERRYS FOR HAVING THIS GUY.
Perfect timing XD I just got myself some (watermixable) Oils last week. I know watermixables aren't the same but it's kind of like you guys know exactly what I struggle with when you upload your videos
YOU MUST BE MORE PRECISE, MY GOOD MAN, THAT WOULD BE A BALL PINT FRUIT JAR WITH A LID AND A RING, US RED NECK PAINTERS MUST ALWAYS BRING A CERTAIN AIR OF CLASS TO THE WOULD-BE PAINTERS OUT THERE - BUT, OLD MAN, WHAT IS THIS CHICKEN WIRE STUFF OF WHICH YOU SPEAK???!!!! - LMAO!!!!!!! VAN GOGH USED AN EMPTY TOMATO SOUP CAN TO WASH HIS BRUSHES IN, SO IT IS CERTAIN THAT A BALL PINT FRUIT JAR, CLOSED TIGHTLY WITH A LID AND A RING IS A STEP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION - ALSO, DRINK WATER, FOR WATER IS FAR MORE CONDUSIVE TO GOOD HEALTH - HAVE A GREAT DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PS - I DO HAPPEN TO KNOW WHAT CHICKEN WIRE IS - LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I only paint landscapes, and am a relative beginner. I use sap green, red oxide (or red ochre), paynes grey, ultramarine blue. lemon yellow and titanium white. Occasionally I will use King's Blue (hard to get, expensive, but worth it!). Since I have troublesome dogs, I stay away from anything toxic (cadmium) as much as possible. I don't use thinners. The only oil I use is purified linseed oil. Non-toxic and almost no smell. Brushes clean up with dish soap and water. For brushes, I use chip brushes from the hardware store. I also have a rigger and fan brush. This works well for the style of painting I do. None of what I use is expensive. The brushes are all either natural bristle or a mix. I do, from time to time, use light green, permanent orange and vermilion, but generally use those for change of pace, and sometimes mix them with the other colours I mainly use. It's surprising what you can do with just the sap green, red oxide, paynes grey, and titanium white!
As I told my friend the other day; "if you wnat to learn how to use copic markers, don't practice with dollar store markers." I'm planning on giving oil painting a serious try with the right materials this time. Last time, I got the cheapest brands and materials I could find. Needless to say I struggled and didn't have as good of a time as I probably could have with actually good paints, brushes, etc.
I'm a stickler for teaching how to properly hold a paintbrush for full body movement. Many revert to going back to holding it like a pencil for small details and wonder why it's so difficult to get it right. It takes practice and a fair amount of concentration in holding the detail brush loosely to make perfect marks and lines. Giving up and reverting back to the pencil is a huge mistake. Constantly rinsing brushes in spirits will cause your brushs to wear much faster and a huge waste of critical time for when you have an idea and need to get it down immediately. All that is needed is to wipe as much paint from the brush as possible with a cloth or paper towel and it is ready to go for a new oil color. Water base does not work like that. If your putting on a wash then sure, it must be perfectly clean just as working with water color. I only clean paint from my brushes at the end of each painting session with spirits. There is no gaging high concentrating oder of spirits in the air while I paint. If you are going to set a brush down and not use it for a hour then yes, clean it with spirits. Generally I work big shapes little so I have the same brush or pallet knife in my hand for lengthy periods. No need to keep vigorously cleaning brushes with soap and water. Again, you're just killing the life of the brushes. Clean them well with spirits at the end of each session and soap and water once every month or 2 depending on how. much you paint. Sticking your paint pallet in the freezer is kind of a poor idea that works to some degree. Other folks in your household are likely using that freezer and getting paint on everything or being couscous and not able to act out normal everyday lives. You're pulling condensation to the top of your oils and surface of your pallet. A simple solution is to cover your pallet with wax paper or saran wrap. You're closing it off the same as if it were in a tube. Some of the paint will come off onto the wax paper and you can choose to scrape it off and save it or just trash it. I prefer the latter. Less frustrating more painting.
Best brush cleaner = a bar of dove soap. I have been painting without thinners (except a tiny bit in my medium) for a decade. I go back and forth between oil/acrylic with the brushes all the time and they don't get stiff, because I wash them really thoroughly. Also, painting on a table is fine. you don't need a fricken easel. I mean I own three of them and they're recommendable, but anybody who is not painting because they do not own an easel has been deceived.
The only time I use my easel is when I'm doing a very large painting. Otherwise I frequently paint flat or just set my rafting board to a 45 degree angle
Ok after I can move out of my travel trailer ill get a big peoples easel. Thanks for the info. Maybe I can get past my 1/2 Bob Ross painting. Thanks again.
Oh!! are you kidding me .. an odorless paint cleaner as in truly odorless ?? I had to give up oils MANY years ago due to migraines from the fumes... Even the "odorless thinner" was not .. Switched to watercolor and although I am very happy with that medium... It is NICE to know that should I reaaaaly want to.. I could go back and do some oil painting again.............. : ) WOW .. what a revelation ..
OMS just means less impurities, which is where most of the danger comes from. BUT even the most pure mineral spirits is still going to off-gas and create issues on it’s own, it will just take longer. Good ventilation, and/or a solvent-rated mask (Jerry’s has one from 3M) will help immensely if you decide to use gamsol or Mona Lisa OMS. The lavender stuff IS much better than OMS for most people, but it has a perfume-like smell. I can’t use it because heavy perfumes give me worse migraines than I get from OMS.
I just heard that you can clean your oil brushes in vegetable oil instead of mineral spirits or turpentine. Have you tried heard this? Also, would you recommend this as a safer way to clean your brushes?
I know this is old, but I have a non-toxic art space, so I do not use any thinner. I use safflower oil to break up paints from the brushes and rags between color changes. I clean at the end the same was, followed with masters brush cleaner and a silicone scrubby mat
They do have a VERY long drying time. You could always try Alkyds, which are a form of oil paints that have a faster drying time. You can also use things like Liquin to speed up drying time.
It depends on what techniques and effects you are trying out. Some want wet-into-wet, others need to be done on a dried surface. If you get to a point where you’re starting to make mud and it’s all in danger of blending together into a non-discript mess, it’s time to stop and let it dry.
Brush cleaning…I don’t know why but cleaning my brushes the way you’ve shown has never worked for me. Unfortunately the way I paint gets paint near the furrel, so using the method you’ve shown has never gotten the paint completely out and thus starts to split the hairs apart. I’ve started to use plain oil’ bar soap and working it through with my fingers until it runs clean under water. What could I be doing wrong when using your method? Why won’t it work for me?
It's late, but I've been using lard soap to clean my brushes. I get the worst off using gamsol in a silicoil jar then use the lard soap. Works very well. I've also seen and used baby oil to clean brushes. That works pretty good too
Always great suggestions and advice. 🙏 I had a family member who wanted to try painting and bought the very oil paints you were using as examples of what not to buy. 😂🤣 They gifted them to me. I’m an acrylic artist, so I can’t even use the paint set for anything 🤷🏻♀️🙃
Yeah, being they are oil paints, you can't even donate them to most schools. It's really a shame that some people get turned off to art in general because they didn't know any better when selecting their materials. It happens a lot!
Do not confuse thinner with solvent. Essences (white spirit, turpentine, etc.) are solvents. They evaporate. Just because these essences smell good doesn't mean they aren't toxic. Mediums, oils are thinners
Oooooh! So that’s why my work has been awful. I get my brushes from hobby lobby, and my paints from Five Below, dollar tree, Walmart, and hobby lobby. 😢
I never thought there would be a time when I would be nervous to say this; I am vegan, for reasons of faith, we cause no harm to any soul, so do you have a synthetic recommendation, please, for we squirrel and piglet lovers? Great video, thanks!
@@cindyd.01 I have found some great ones on Rosemary & Co. They are synthetic hog bristles and from the ratings many are saying better performance. They have faux squirrel, too and a synthetic red one that is in between the two, I haven't tried, yet, but they have great reviews, too. It seems a lot of people are switching for the improvements.
Spend the money on decent paint mediums and surface ... not your brushes. No one needs expensive brushes to paint well ... I just use cheap crap and throw em' out. Brushes don't last anyway... especially if you're using oils.
Yes on every count. Oil painting is an expensive venture - no getting away from it. Where have all the patrons gone? Kings are titular anymore and those with money are entranced by AI's work... but, I digress. No more cafe lunches.
In the first few years of painting I don't see any problem with buying cheap canvases in a pack from amazon but I did buy Windsor and Newton oil paints and half decent brushes. Having low quality turps is no problem for me either, I use it carefully only opening it when in use, otherwise it's airtight closed and I wash my hands after use. Having skills and tools to practice immediately is more important than having the highest quality goods.
The oil I like best is a student grade made for practice. the expensive tubes I've bought don't have enough more pigment to make up for the additional cost. The except is Acrylics. You get what you pay for BUT there are times when craft quality paint is actually fine and I've done some pretty detailed art with it. Now the dollar store stuff... that's just junk.
ALWAYS buy the absolute best stuff whether you can afford or not. Give yourself a fighting chance. "Student" grade paint, brushes etc. are just worthless and will just frustrate you. Miss a meal or two if you have to. Do it for your art.
The natural and synthetic brush to types of paint is incredibly not correct or consensus. Me and maaaaaany others use natural hair for acrylics, and synthetic for oils.
Whatever you do, don't sniff the thinner like he does three minutes into the video. Just because you can't smell it doesn't mean it's harmless. Data safety sheet shows the lavender cleaner is highly toxic to aquatic life, as well as other issues.
Mike, good tips. The jokes are not that funny, however. It would also have been helpful to show the techniques you are trying to explain. Really pouring the brush cleaner, etc. You could have had a container that had settled to show you pouring off and the remaking “sludge” to be being wiped out. Oil painting is difficult and showing people how to do the techniques is very important. Good effort. I think you have potential to make some really good videos. You appear comfortable in front of the camera.
You said rookie, of course they will buy cheap stuffs until they get used to painting and when they want to become more serious then they can start to buy artist materials. Take more lessons.
Tip #1 put your oil paints in the freezer to keep them from oxidizing. Tip #2 instead of throwing your excess paint away mix it all together for beautiful grays and store in a tube or airtight container.
Tip #2 is excellent, thank you!
Thank you!!!
I take the excess to start a base on another small painting. Often it becomes just a complete painting in itself.
I mix my paints on freezer paper - each color on its own sheet and when finished for the day use a palett knife to scrape into a neat blob which i then cover with a piece of plastic wrap to keep air out. I can the stack multiple colors/sheets on top of each other and store in a plastic container which i store in my small studio refridge. The paints keep for mo ths depending on any mediums i have added.
in a freezer? Do you really do that? what does it do for paint?
He is so right about the palette! I've been teaching color theory for years and here are my specific pigment recommendations for the limited palette he's proposing:
Titanium White PW6
Ultramarine Blue (cool) PB29
Cerulean Blue (warm) PB36
Quinacridone Magenta or violet* (cool) PV19
Cadmium Red, preferably light, but medium is okay (warm) PR108
Hansa Yellow (cool) PY3
Cadmium Yellow, preferably light, but medium is okay (warm) PY35
Yellow Ochre (warm) PY43
Don't go with Umber. Even in the better brands, it's often made with inferior pigments or by mixing pigments, which you can do for yourself.
All of the colors I recommended are lightfast as long as you're using a respectable brand that uses the correct pigments -- don't get anything with the word "hue" in the name; it's a cheap substitute pigment!
Also, there are only a very few more paints you might want add later. At the very, very most you should have 12 colors in your paintbox. Artists who have more usually don't know how to mix for themselves, or don't know that many colors are made with lesser pigments that won't stand up to time very well. If you want to branch out from the above palette (and honestly, you may never need to), you can consider the following:
Raw Sienna - has a clarity that can't be obtained through mixing other colors together (warm) PBR7
Burnt Sienna - same qualities as raw, but darker (warm) PBR7
Phthalo Green - good base for landscape mixtures; keeps your colors clear! (cool) PG7 or PG36
Cadmium Orange - mixed oranges tend to be dull; sunsets, oranges, etc. should be painted bright & clear! (warm) PO20
* Quinacridone magenta/violet is a very cool red that replaces Alizarin Crimson which is dark. You should always start _bright_ ! With mixing, you can move a paint from bright to dark, but not the other way around. You can mimic Alizarin Crimson starting with Quinacridone Magenta but you CANNOT do it the other way around. You can't get that pure, lovely, rich, vibrant, rosy orchid color out of Alizarin Crimson via mixing. Cannot. (And no, white won't help; adding white to lighten a dark pigment like Alizarin tints it, which means the chroma -- saturation -- comes down and when we're talking about reds, white also changes the nature of the color in a way that we experience as a new color - pink.)
Thanks for the tips!
This was amazingly helpful! Thank you so much for taking the time to share!
Thanks for this. But someone who considers themself an amateur will probably go for popular pricing.
Thanks for this!
Since the war started in sudan, we were displaced from our home, exiled to the outskirts of the country, i left behind my studio filled of my beautiful paintings and expensive art materials that ive gathered over the years, where i am now, "good" paint and painting material does not exist, but that didn't stop me, i kept painting with cheap paint, bad paper, no canvas, kids brushes.
Your resilience and dedication to your craft despite the challenging circumstances are inspiring! It's incredible to see how your passion for art continues to shine through, even when faced with such adversity. Your ability to create beauty with limited resources is a testament to your talent and creativity. Keep painting and expressing yourself-it's a powerful way to transcend boundaries and connect with others!
@@JerrysArtarama thank you for your kind words, one thing is for certain, I will never stop painting. believe it or not, this war has been an inspiration, although my art seems a bit gruesome and depressing, but nevertheless reflects what I have seen and witnessed, the epitomy of human evil, heaps and lumps of people reduced to basically roadkill by the side of the roads, paramilitary forces looting and destroying infrastructure and homes for fun and because they can. One would say that the first casualties of war is truth I have seen many artists and cultural professionals being targeted and even killed for their provocative messages in their art.... Anyways I could go on and on, but thank you again for your amazing content!
Don't over mix your paint. Mix the two hues by about half way and let the individual hues be visible in the mix. It adds life to the color being mixed.
Over mixing is a whole problem on it's own. The more you mix the color the duller your colors actually turn out. They might be more "even," but can lack visual interest.
@@MikeNotJerry All this is nonsense. Color mixing is just that, mixing and obtaining a color. If you want an effect of multiple colors then perhaps this technique of "half-mixing" the color will be fine. I get so tired of hearing people provide bad advice. The correct advice is to correctly mix an interesting color. Jesus.
One of my teachers had us line theses paint brush pots you have shown with a small plastic bag. Same results but sludge settles in bottom of bag. Pour off clear paint for use, no mess in bottom of pot.
i do this but use doggie bags
My friend wanted to paint. I told him go ahead and use whatever you want of my paints. He took one look at what paints I had and quickly said he couldn't because I didn't have enough colors. I had titanium white mars black, red, yellow, ultermarrine blue, cobalt blue, yellow ocher, burnt umber and raw umber. I told him you mix to get other colors like yellow and blue for green and ect. I could not even get him to try it. He said he would wait until he could afford to buy all the colors. It never happened. If he had tried he might had been surprised how flexible that palette could be.
He's not a painter. 😁
That was a basic lesson taught in my classes at college. Start with the basics. Learn to mix colors, especially as you learn and can vary tones. In my later years, I bought more colors but still don’t have nearly what’s available and I am quite okay with it.
More paint for you
If you want to limit your color pallet further you can use a CMY (cyan, magenta and yellow) or a Zorn pallet (titanium white, ivory black, yellow ochre, and cadmium red (vermillion substitute)).
Great suggestion!
Odd Nerdrum uses that similar limited palette ... all his blues comes from his black and the relationships he creates with his warm tones. I tried it for a while .. but I missed too much my Ultra blue ... I can't do without it.
"CADIUM RED LIGHT" - ALSO, DON'T BE FOOLED, ZORN ALSO USED OTHER PAINTS (TWO FOR SURE; "COBALT BLUE" AND "BURNT UMBER") AND A FEW MORE - WITH THE ZORN PALETTE IT IS *IMPOSSIBLE* TO GET A NICE GREEN OR A NICE BLUE, ZORN DID USE OTHER COLORS, AND IF YOU PAINT MOSTLY PORTRAITS THE ZORN PALETTE IS *GREAT!!!!!!!"* - HAPPY PAINTING, AND REMEMBER; PAINT WHAT YOU LIKE IN THE COLRS YOU LIKE, BE A VAN GOGH!!!!!!!
EDIT - WATCH SOME BOB ROSS VIDEOS TOO, IT MIGHT HELP, THEY HELPED ME!!! LOL!!!!!!!
Yes starting with a limited palette make it so much easier to learn!!! Oil painting especially but I'm sure it applies to many mediums as you need to develop a working language of how the medium functions!
Absolutely. Regardless of medium, overwhelming yourself with color options will not only confuse you, but not allow you to take the time to learn your palette and how to mix color.
I prefer it because the end painting has more cohesive colours
LOL the Michael's products diss was strong in this video 😂😂😂
Honestly some of the best art advice I have heard!
Yes, more youtube deals... but also perpetual deals (possibly a smaller discount?) only for youtube... so someone who just finds you a year from now is also made to feel welcome and encouraged to get these supplies from you (not Amazon.)
Till he snorted the fumes from the lavender cleaner. He lost me then.
I agree with all of these tips! But alternatively, when you get an easel, you can get the kind that can be taken apart, put in a bag and traveled with so that you can easily take it places to do plein air as well.
Folding aluminum!
Whoa lol, he’s being really basic here, great info, but don’t throw Plein air on the pile, there will be a stampede of beginners in panic mode!
I use a French easel in a corner of my apartment because I am limited on space.
It's drank, but a more coherent structure for the sentence would be "You don't want anyone drinking it."
I come to art from a background in grammar, so that opportunity to problem solve actually made me very comfortable.
Wut bout when you be talkin bout Purple Drank? Is dat proper?
@@Fiveash-Art Yes. Multiple dialects of English include that usage of drank as a noun. Of course, it depends whatchu mean by "proper".
@@Terrapin22 "Multiple dialects of English" 😂
@@Fiveash-Art I'm sorry, I don't get the joke.
@@Terrapin22 I would imagine not .. considering you're probably just another product of liberal arts university programming. 😂
I made my first abstract paintint on the 30x30cm canvas and I only used a spatula, tried brushes, but then I would see canvas texture, I prefer applying the pain more thickly so you don't see the canvas. Was very easy to use, can fix whatever mistakes you make, because it dries for a week. Acrylics are way harder to work with, if you mix the color, the corners dry up in a minute, you put it on canvas, almost no time to fix the mistake, maybe only to paint it over, a mess and paint wasted. For beginners of course, if you are a pro, you will do everything quickly and it won't be an issue, but the ones who are only beginning, I would only recommend oil paint.
Hey there....I am moving from acrylics over to oil and totally baffled by all the different mediums and oils. Linseed, walnut, gamvar, turpenoid, dms,.....it's all very confusing. Can you do a video like this that explains what all this stuff does and what we really need to get started? BTW....loved my first experience at OAC this month!
Mediums are used to adjust paints> flow,consistency and dry time.
There are ‘studio safe’ mediums available for all before mentioned adjustments so if you’re starting out I suggest that be your first requirement.
Second would be ‘non yellowing’ mediums. Some types of oil will tend to yellow over time giving your piece an amber tint especially when used as a glazing medium.
Third would be drying time of the chosen mediums, alkyd mediums generally allow the paint to become dry to the touch within 12-24 hrs. and you can then progress to the next layer.
Don't over complicate it at first. You don't need mediums, especially starting out. As you learn, you can pick up one or two to adjust to how you like to paint.
I have an unusual suggestion/request for another oil paint topic: Issues with the paint yellowing over time. It seems that leaving them in the dark for too long makes all the lighter colors become a gross yellow color, and from what I've learned, leaving them in the light for a while makes the yellow go away.
I'm just curious as to how this happens, and if there's either a way to prevent it, or a better/faster way to fix it?
The yellowing is generally from paints that have traditional linseed oil as the binder. Some brands use clearer oils, like safflower or poppy oils, which don't yellow as much over time. The trade off is that they are less flexible than linseed based oil paints. The reason linseed oil is yellow is because it hasn't been throughly cleaned. The Chelsea Classical Linseed Oil Extra Pale is as clear as it is because it has been cleaned several times for impurities. This means that if you use it as a medium, it will not yellow your paints like a traditional linseed oil, but will maintain paint film flexibility.
Walnut oil is good but expensive
Love your videos and love Jerry’s! Outstanding customer service and your shipping is crazy quick ♥️
Thanks for your feedback and for watching!
I use just 2 types of brushes. A fan brush and a round painting brush. I buy them from small to large for diffrent sizes dipending on canvas the panels that i paint on
Fun fact you can easily fix those cheaper canvas by spraying water on the back of them. Smooths them right out. That being said I still like my gallery wrap!
For paint colors, honestly, there's an extremely successful artist here in Colorado that only uses BLACK with a white canvas for a luminous black and white effect. No white paint. They're brilliant huge paintings.
What's the name?
Thanks brother. I'm still using paint thinner from home depot.
ODERLESS MINERAL SPIRITS FROM LOEW'S HERE, AND A PINT FRUIT JAR - SOMEBODY NEEDS TO MAKE A *POOR MAN'S PAINTING VIDEO* - LOL!!!!!!!
IF THESE SNOWFLAKES WOULD HAVE WATCHED VAN GOGH PAINT (OR RENOIR, MONET, ETC.) THEY WOULD HAVE HAD A KINIPTION FIT - LMAO!!!!!!!
I knew all these already, but a great reminder. I'm going to pick up some of those brush cleaners though because those are nicer than what I've been using.
Heya Mike, sweet video. I do enjoy watching your quick and easy videos. I am able to point others that are constantly asking me questions that I honestly am rather tired of answering. I hope you do a basic supplies list for every medium, you can create videos for everything from watercolor painting to ink block printing! I believe that it is Ok to feature brands, I mean you do sell art supplies you can feature multiple brands when talking about brushes or even paints! Every supply has a pro and con, why not make a video featuring them? I like Charvin because this, but Gamblin is good because of that! You know how to do it! I look forward to seeing how you are going to run with this idea or not. Take care and be safe out there!
Thanks! I will keep this in mind, of course. I don't want to be too "sales-y" for lack of a better term, but I do want to promote products that I personally enjoy and believe in.
A very interesting video. Thank you. A new follower from Spain.
Listen. I think I would watch just about anything this dude advertises. There is something real about his personality that I just love. Good on Jerrys. I hope they never get rid of him.
For oil paint color mixing, I suggest two TH-camrs:
Draw Mix Paint
Florent Farges
The both of them show easy and digestible techniques for mixing paints, and Farges also offers incredible courses you can purchase that goes over literally everything.
But Draw Mix Paint has a wonderful video where he teaches you how to color-match using 5 basic colors: Titanium White ; Burnt Umber ; Cadmium Yellow Pale ; Permanent Alizarin Crimson, French Ultramarine. This doesn't include super vibrant "neon" colors, which involve a whole different set of special synthetic pigments, but every other color (including grays) can be matched using only these colors. Definitely check out the color mixing video(s) Draw Mix Paint created and follow it.
Why does Jerrys Artarama suggest a warm and cool version of colors? It's a decent paint mixing technique which takes away the mystery of trying to make things warm or cool. IMO I like the Draw Mix Paint approach, but this is a viable option as well.
Thank you!
Thank you for the great presentation. I learned that I'm at the "Advanced Rookie" stage.
Damn, I am starting learning today and came across this vid. First advice is not to buy cheap products. He pulled out those paints and I looked at mines that I bought the other day and they're the same brand!
i've seen the best painter ever only using synthetic brushes for oil. He preferred synthetic ones. thank you I will buy the lavender and the paint cleaner containers.
Just bought my oil paints from Jerry's, watching this in the meantime while I wait! Got Lukas, an m graham(perelyne maroon, I love it),and some Georgian paint.
Excellent tips for beginners, thank you
I learned more from this video than from my art class
Discounts always help. Love Jerry’s Artarama.
Thanks so much, we love you too!
I swear I have never loved an ambassador for literally any company the way I love this man. 😂 Hilarious human. Real human. GOOD ON JERRYS FOR HAVING THIS GUY.
Thank you for the great tips!
Perfect timing XD I just got myself some (watermixable) Oils last week.
I know watermixables aren't the same but it's kind of like you guys know exactly what I struggle with when you upload your videos
Watermixable oil paints are still oil paints. They might not be exactly the same, but the struggles can be just as real!
@@MikeNotJerry Still doesn't explain your long distance mind reading skills tho :P
Use a jar with a lid and a small piece of 1/4inch Chicken Wire Mesh
to make a turpentine container
YOU MUST BE MORE PRECISE, MY GOOD MAN, THAT WOULD BE A BALL PINT FRUIT JAR WITH A LID AND A RING, US RED NECK PAINTERS MUST ALWAYS BRING A CERTAIN AIR OF CLASS TO THE WOULD-BE PAINTERS OUT THERE - BUT, OLD MAN, WHAT IS THIS CHICKEN WIRE STUFF OF WHICH YOU SPEAK???!!!! - LMAO!!!!!!!
VAN GOGH USED AN EMPTY TOMATO SOUP CAN TO WASH HIS BRUSHES IN, SO IT IS CERTAIN THAT A BALL PINT FRUIT JAR, CLOSED TIGHTLY WITH A LID AND A RING IS A STEP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION - ALSO, DRINK WATER, FOR WATER IS FAR MORE CONDUSIVE TO GOOD HEALTH - HAVE A GREAT DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
PS - I DO HAPPEN TO KNOW WHAT CHICKEN WIRE IS - LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Vary good job brother 👍
I'm glad I watched this before messing all my watercolor brushes up
Oh we're so glad as well!
So the same colours i use for my acrylic paints. I wanna get Pebeo oil and acrylic paints to start whit. I am a biginner painter
Ah. That’s all the same crap I started with to see if I liked oil painting. Man what a waste of money! Agree with this video !!
😁
I only paint landscapes, and am a relative beginner. I use sap green, red oxide (or red ochre), paynes grey, ultramarine blue. lemon yellow and titanium white. Occasionally I will use King's Blue (hard to get, expensive, but worth it!). Since I have troublesome dogs, I stay away from anything toxic (cadmium) as much as possible. I don't use thinners. The only oil I use is purified linseed oil. Non-toxic and almost no smell. Brushes clean up with dish soap and water. For brushes, I use chip brushes from the hardware store. I also have a rigger and fan brush. This works well for the style of painting I do. None of what I use is expensive. The brushes are all either natural bristle or a mix. I do, from time to time, use light green, permanent orange and vermilion, but generally use those for change of pace, and sometimes mix them with the other colours I mainly use. It's surprising what you can do with just the sap green, red oxide, paynes grey, and titanium white!
Thanks so much for sharing!
As I told my friend the other day; "if you wnat to learn how to use copic markers, don't practice with dollar store markers." I'm planning on giving oil painting a serious try with the right materials this time. Last time, I got the cheapest brands and materials I could find. Needless to say I struggled and didn't have as good of a time as I probably could have with actually good paints, brushes, etc.
That's a great tip!
👍 love the deals ❣️😍. Art supply hoarder here. Live Jerry's.
Me too 😳 my art professor in college says it’s not hoarding though..he called it art supply therapy. 🤣
Thanks so much! We'll try to keep these kinds of videos up!
Also a hoarder😁 my next purchase will be two of those brush cleaner cans😊
I want an affordable 8 and 15 (in 4 mis) tubes for a beginner
Wow that sutch a good idea whit two cans for cleaning oil paints
I'm a stickler for teaching how to properly hold a paintbrush for full body movement. Many revert to going back to holding it like a pencil for small details and wonder why it's so difficult to get it right. It takes practice and a fair amount of concentration in holding the detail brush loosely to make perfect marks and lines. Giving up and reverting back to the pencil is a huge mistake.
Constantly rinsing brushes in spirits will cause your brushs to wear much faster and a huge waste of critical time for when you have an idea and need to get it down immediately. All that is needed is to wipe as much paint from the brush as possible with a cloth or paper towel and it is ready to go for a new oil color. Water base does not work like that. If your putting on a wash then sure, it must be perfectly clean just as working with water color. I only clean paint from my brushes at the end of each painting session with spirits. There is no gaging high concentrating oder of spirits in the air while I paint. If you are going to set a brush down and not use it for a hour then yes, clean it with spirits. Generally I work big shapes little so I have the same brush or pallet knife in my hand for lengthy periods.
No need to keep vigorously cleaning brushes with soap and water. Again, you're just killing the life of the brushes. Clean them well with spirits at the end of each session and soap and water once every month or 2 depending on how. much you paint.
Sticking your paint pallet in the freezer is kind of a poor idea that works to some degree. Other folks in your household are likely using that freezer and getting paint on everything or being couscous and not able to act out normal everyday lives. You're pulling condensation to the top of your oils and surface of your pallet. A simple solution is to cover your pallet with wax paper or saran wrap. You're closing it off the same as if it were in a tube. Some of the paint will come off onto the wax paper and you can choose to scrape it off and save it or just trash it. I prefer the latter. Less frustrating more painting.
Best brush cleaner = a bar of dove soap. I have been painting without thinners (except a tiny bit in my medium) for a decade. I go back and forth between oil/acrylic with the brushes all the time and they don't get stiff, because I wash them really thoroughly. Also, painting on a table is fine. you don't need a fricken easel. I mean I own three of them and they're recommendable, but anybody who is not painting because they do not own an easel has been deceived.
Dawn dish detergent!
The only time I use my easel is when I'm doing a very large painting. Otherwise I frequently paint flat or just set my rafting board to a 45 degree angle
@@NCWildHeART Dawn fixes so many issues!
I don’t get overwhelmed with brushes i find it easer to use one brush per colour instead of cleaning one brush for all colours ☺️
Ok after I can move out of my travel trailer ill get a big peoples easel. Thanks for the info. Maybe I can get past my 1/2 Bob Ross painting. Thanks again.
STICK WITH BOB ROSS - LOL!!!!!!!
Very informative…always, more videos 🖼🎨📽🎞
Oh!! are you kidding me .. an odorless paint cleaner as in truly odorless ?? I had to give up oils MANY years ago due to migraines from the fumes... Even the "odorless thinner" was not .. Switched to watercolor and although I am very happy with that medium... It is NICE to know that should I reaaaaly want to.. I could go back and do some oil painting again.............. : ) WOW .. what a revelation ..
The term odorless is VERY misleading. It might not have the pungent odor of turpentine, but it is NOT safe to breath.
OMS just means less impurities, which is where most of the danger comes from. BUT even the most pure mineral spirits is still going to off-gas and create issues on it’s own, it will just take longer. Good ventilation, and/or a solvent-rated mask (Jerry’s has one from 3M) will help immensely if you decide to use gamsol or Mona Lisa OMS. The lavender stuff IS much better than OMS for most people, but it has a perfume-like smell. I can’t use it because heavy perfumes give me worse migraines than I get from OMS.
@@staciecarrel4492 Good to know.. strong perfumes also trigger migraines for me.. thank you for the detailed and thoughtful reply.. : )
I just heard that you can clean your oil brushes in vegetable oil instead of mineral spirits or turpentine. Have you tried heard this? Also, would you recommend this as a safer way to clean your brushes?
While possible, It wouldn’t dry right if you used it as a thinner, and it probably wouldn’t be too effective in cleaning
I know this is old, but I have a non-toxic art space, so I do not use any thinner. I use safflower oil to break up paints from the brushes and rags between color changes. I clean at the end the same was, followed with masters brush cleaner and a silicone scrubby mat
@@jeanetted6806 I love safflower for cleaning oil brushes!
I can't wait for my first jerry's order to arrive
Me (a watercolorist): yes, all you need is 1-3 well chosen brushes (depending on use/preference)
Also me: collect ALL the brushes 😂
Sameeeee!
My big issue with oils is that they take forever to dry. I never know if I can keep painting while it's wet or if I need to let it dry in between.
They do have a VERY long drying time. You could always try Alkyds, which are a form of oil paints that have a faster drying time. You can also use things like Liquin to speed up drying time.
It depends on what techniques and effects you are trying out. Some want wet-into-wet, others need to be done on a dried surface. If you get to a point where you’re starting to make mud and it’s all in danger of blending together into a non-discript mess, it’s time to stop and let it dry.
Great information. Thanks.
Happy to help!
Very helpful!!!!
Yup this is the way
Great video
Actually can I just purchase that paint palette from you for my studio decor??????????
But what about platinum blue
Where can you buy good quality paint?
Gamblin
Step back baby! Daddy’s gonna paint!
Yes more videos. coupon codes are an added bonus
Thanks so much for your feedback and for watching!
Brush cleaning…I don’t know why but cleaning my brushes the way you’ve shown has never worked for me. Unfortunately the way I paint gets paint near the furrel, so using the method you’ve shown has never gotten the paint completely out and thus starts to split the hairs apart. I’ve started to use plain oil’ bar soap and working it through with my fingers until it runs clean under water. What could I be doing wrong when using your method? Why won’t it work for me?
It's late, but I've been using lard soap to clean my brushes. I get the worst off using gamsol in a silicoil jar then use the lard soap. Works very well. I've also seen and used baby oil to clean brushes. That works pretty good too
Always great suggestions and advice. 🙏
I had a family member who wanted to try painting and bought the very oil paints you were using as examples of what not to buy. 😂🤣
They gifted them to me. I’m an acrylic artist, so I can’t even use the paint set for anything 🤷🏻♀️🙃
Yeah, being they are oil paints, you can't even donate them to most schools. It's really a shame that some people get turned off to art in general because they didn't know any better when selecting their materials. It happens a lot!
You can’t dump turpentine down the drain 😱 I knew it was bad when I did it... ugh... 🤦♂️
Me painting with Michael's oil paint, acrylic brushes on handmade canvases: "oh no".
This is coming from the same person that did graphite artworks using mechanical pencil on A4 paper for YEARS. I guess the trend is trending.
Do not confuse thinner with solvent. Essences (white spirit, turpentine, etc.) are solvents. They evaporate. Just because these essences smell good doesn't mean they aren't toxic. Mediums, oils are thinners
...mason jars are super cheap, clear, and work great for thinner...
They have water mixable/soluble oil paint now. Fun fact.
Oooooh! So that’s why my work has been awful. I get my brushes from hobby lobby, and my paints from Five Below, dollar tree, Walmart, and hobby lobby. 😢
I never thought there would be a time when I would be nervous to say this; I am vegan, for reasons of faith, we cause no harm to any soul, so do you have a synthetic recommendation, please, for we squirrel and piglet lovers?
Great video, thanks!
Yes, that would be nice! I have seen synthetic bristle brushes recommended for oil painting, but I haven’t tried them yet either :)
@@cindyd.01 I have found some great ones on Rosemary & Co. They are synthetic hog bristles and from the ratings many are saying better performance. They have faux squirrel, too and a synthetic red one that is in between the two, I haven't tried, yet, but they have great reviews, too. It seems a lot of people are switching for the improvements.
Spend the money on decent paint mediums and surface ... not your brushes. No one needs expensive brushes to paint well ... I just use cheap crap and throw em' out. Brushes don't last anyway... especially if you're using oils.
Yes on every count. Oil painting is an expensive venture - no getting away from it. Where have all the patrons gone? Kings are titular anymore and those with money are entranced by AI's work... but, I digress. No more cafe lunches.
Always Tilt the canvas as far forward as possible and forget about it
This video focuses entirely on materials, not techniques or concepts. Tools don't make the artist, as they say.
Damn I missed the code by 3 years 😢
👍👍👍
You’re awesome! Lol
In the first few years of painting I don't see any problem with buying cheap canvases in a pack from amazon but I did buy Windsor and Newton oil paints and half decent brushes. Having low quality turps is no problem for me either, I use it carefully only opening it when in use, otherwise it's airtight closed and I wash my hands after use. Having skills and tools to practice immediately is more important than having the highest quality goods.
I use cheap ass brushes .. everything else I spend the money.
The oil I like best is a student grade made for practice. the expensive tubes I've bought don't have enough more pigment to make up for the additional cost. The except is Acrylics. You get what you pay for BUT there are times when craft quality paint is actually fine and I've done some pretty detailed art with it. Now the dollar store stuff... that's just junk.
Been learning. The first tip makes me want to say Fuck it.
ALWAYS buy the absolute best stuff whether you can afford or not. Give yourself a fighting chance. "Student" grade paint, brushes etc. are just worthless and will just frustrate you. Miss a meal or two if you have to. Do it for your art.
I'm not on instagram. I'm older and just use google and txting. lol
The natural and synthetic brush to types of paint is incredibly not correct or consensus. Me and maaaaaany others use natural hair for acrylics, and synthetic for oils.
Take the basket out before you let it settle because a layer will settle on it.
Great tip! Thank you!
No UK link? Sad face.
I think you should dress up like Evil Knievel.
Whatever you do, don't sniff the thinner like he does three minutes into the video. Just because you can't smell it doesn't mean it's harmless.
Data safety sheet shows the lavender cleaner is highly toxic to aquatic life, as well as other issues.
Thumbnail: "Fuck your brushes!" "Pour water"
Are you jerry
Nah, he is artarama
Mike, good tips. The jokes are not that funny, however. It would also have been helpful to show the techniques you are trying to explain. Really pouring the brush cleaner, etc. You could have had a container that had settled to show you pouring off and the remaking “sludge” to be being wiped out. Oil painting is difficult and showing people how to do the techniques is very important. Good effort. I think you have potential to make some really good videos. You appear comfortable in front of the camera.
OMA. Dear Jerry, I thought you are the president of Ukraine.
You said rookie, of course they will buy cheap stuffs until they get used to painting and when they want to become more serious then they can start to buy artist materials. Take more lessons.
98% of my paintings end up in the garbage
this guy is so funny!! :) :)
🤣🤣