You are amazing Dianne. I have a Master's Degree in painting, but I always learn new things from you. Thank you for your clear and concise explanations of techniques and materials.
Thank you, DIanne, I saw a bottle of Liquin just today in the store and wondered about it and also heard someone speak of it today online so your video is very timely! It was very helpful to see you actually mix color with it.
After half an hour of searching around how to use my Liquin I found this video. Thanks so much for the very clear explanations Dianne! You've just made yourself a new fan^^
Thank you for that you explain thoroughly instead of assuming we already know obvious steps. As a very beginning beginner I appreciate that so much! Your an amazing teacher. Thank you for illustrating each step.
Another topic that is often confusing, very well explained. Simple but comprehensive at the same time. Thanks for these most helpful quick tips. 8 min chocked full of useful material. Thanks so much Dianne.
Dianne, thanks very much for the tip. If it is useful to your audience, the way I normally use liquin is by adding only the tip of my palette (3-5 drops perhaps) to my mixes of turpentine and linseed oil (respectively and by stage in parts 1:0, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 0:1-- fat over lean rule) these 5 ml in total. With those mixes I go for the particular paint consistency (texture) I need. In this way paint mostly "dries" overnight. Cheers and thanks again.
The paints I generally use are Winsor and Newton, and M Harding, other brands too. This mixes of turps / oils (one or two drops at most) only to attain a certain buttery consistency and overall homogeneity of paint texture and drying time. The quintessential aspect of academic oil painting is gradually build up fat (linseed oil %) over lean (turpentine %) layers. Some paints, like titanium white are rather thick and stiff and require more. Sometimes one wants precisely thickness and stiffness, for example for dry brush techniques. Other times, runny and almost watery, for an initial staining. This does not apply to alla prima: with this overall paint consistency, no turps, no dessicants, perhaps retardants, only linseed oil or no extra oil. All in one go, two to three working days, and let it dry. Good fun and better luck 🤞
fb pliegorrivero FB ...I am new to the ratio part. What exactly are you referring to with these. And are you adding liquin to each..if so how much. For us new painters in oil I would be very appreciative for a more thorough explanation. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Dianne, I recently started to use Liquin and I find it to be really useful for drying the paint and for glazing. I tend not to use it when I paint skies and water as I prefer to let the paint dry slowly so that if I want to go back to the subject in the first 24 hours I can still continue to add paint and blend it in.
Such a useful tutorial. I was exactly looking for liquin mixing with titanium white and clicked first on ur tutorial which has given me so much clarity. Thank you, u look lovely in white shirt 🥰
I have used Liquin for years as I paint in very thin layers, I love it because the paint is dry enough to add another layer the next day, I also use the fine detail Liquin when needed. They also do an impasto version which allows thick impasto layers to dry quickly too.
Hi, really like all the tips you show, as I am fairly new to oil painting I find your channel the go to channel and look for previous tips etc. Thank you very much for the help you give.
Dianne thank you so much for your amazing teaching. Coming from water colour and gouache to oil I was very nervous and felt like I could no longer paint but through your videos I’ve learnt so much and I really will be forever great full for that
The medium is not necessarily the message, as Marshall McCluen claimed decades ago. Transitioning from one medium to another can expand your horizons in painting. It's just learning a new technique, but the principles of composing (mixing color, placing shapes, balancing, etc.) are universal.
Thanks so much Teacher Dianne, all my doubts were gone with your helpful instructions. I have the liquin original, and I will use it to make a portrait with the glazing method.
I'm delighted my teaching is helping dispel your doubts. All it takes to dispel doubts is knowledge and that's what I'm hoping to give with these Tips.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction thank you so much teacher, greetings from Paraguay. I would like to show you my artwork when I finish, with glazing technique using liquin, may I send you a pic by email? If you want, of course
I've done a few decent oils flipping from watercolor. I couldn't for the life of me remember that it was liquin that gave me the drying time I prefer. A couple questions. I have a bottle that seems to have separated. Can it be revived? The top layer in the bottle is hard, perhaps dried out permanently. Secondly I note the piles of paint on your palette. How often do you add to that or remove it. I have seem artists with piles 3 inches tall. It must have something to do with the fact that oil takes a long time to dry, thus the surface of the glob let's say, remains useful. I take it you dedicate this pochade to oils. Thx again.
Thank you Dianne! Quick, clear and covered the most important info. I’m starting my first ever oil painting class in May and I’m in the process of painting the undersurface of my glass pallet with 3 shades of grey (dark, Medium and then light) in thirds. It seems to take forever to dry! Maybe this is normal. I also have a small bottle of Liquin Original and wondered how to use it to speed up the drying process. Now I know!
Two things I noticed about Liquin - 1. if a lot is used it dries shiny, which sometimes is good, sometimes bad for me. 2. Colors don’t seem to dry as dull when using liquin so I don’t have to oil out or use retouch varnish. I also assume the wait time to varnish will greatly be reduced for a finished painting. But a question - if I use a bit of liquin in every bit of paint I put down do I have to follow the fat over lean rule.
Dan, I've seen lots of discussion about that. Whether we follow the fat over lean rule does depend upon the drying speed of layers, so I'd say what you watch for is consistency in how much Liquin is added. Since oil oxidizes rather than evaporates, and Liquin is a catalyst, that should be easy to guage. About the varnishing, that too has to do with not sealing oxygen away from the paint before underneath layers are dry. If your paint layers are not thick, then yes, Liquin will cut down on the drying time.
Hello Diane, I will admit that I have used the liquin by dipping into it during use. It I'm using a good amount of paint though, it's not mixed in unless I'm doing that on the canvas. You say it can take a week for paint to dry otherwise. The work has to sit that long? Is there not a sweetspot where it's dry enough? And can linseed oil be used with the liquin? Thx
Paul, oil paint oxidizes rather than evaporates. Add to that--various tube colors dry at different rates. Linseed oil is the preferred binder in oil paint, so adding more doesn't speed up the drying. But Liquin is catalyst that speeds up the oxidation. Colbalt dryer will do this, too.
Does fat over lean apply to Liquin? I’ve just finished an alla prima still life where I used quite thick brushstrokes loaded with liquid original. If next week I decide to glaze it or touch it up with a THIN layer of paint mixed with liquin, will the fat over lean rule be broken here with all the known consequences? I’d really appreciate your expertise before I ordered more liquin products. Thank you ❤
Keep in mind that Liquin is a drying agent, not a medium for loosening the thickness of oil paint. If you apply Liquin to a top layer of oil paint, your Liquin layer will dry long before the oil layer underneath, creating a danger of the top layer cracking as the layer underneath it dries.
I hope you might be able to answer a question for me before I get back on Monday to a painting I've been working on. I just started painting about 2 months ago. I was just talking to somebody about it the other day and I told them I chose oil paint because the paintings I've seen in museums, the oil ones always seemed to have a glow that none of the acrylics ever had. Then I told her that I do see that glow, even though my paintings don't glow anywhere near what I had seen. Immediately she told me "Once you finish your painting, let it dry for a few days. Then take a big brush and apply a thin layer of liquin over the top of it." So far I haven't found any videos or articles showing people doing this. I haven't tried it yet. And I don't want to mess up my painting. Is this good advice for achieving a glow like I've seen in museums? Thank you for making videos! You seem like a very sweet lady, a nice change from most people on TH-cam. I'll be hoping a looking for a response.
Sorry about the delay in answering this. I've been recovering from knee replacement surgery. The conservators tell us it is not wise to use Liquin as a varnish which is what this person advised you to do. Paintings you see in museums most likely have been varnished with a high gloss final picture varnish. This should be a professional high quality such as the final varnishes made by Gamblin or Winsor Newton.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction I had a feeling you were going to answer me eventually, so I held off on using anything. Thank you for the help! I'll be looking for a varnish soon.
Can you touch on using galkyd as a medium to glaze, and also, how do you clean your brushes without using turpoids, I've been trying out Murphy's oil soap
Please see Quick Tips 249, 160 and 7. I think these three answer your questions, mostly. Galkyd is Gamblin's version of Liquin. It is a synthetic resin that facilitates fast drying. As a glaze medium, it works just like Liquin.
So, about the fat over lean rule, should I use less and less liquin in each new layer?? Or is it ok to use liquin in all layers and then use it to glaze too?
Kiko, the jury is still out on Liquin as to how it figures in to the fat over lean principle. For over lean came into the oil painting process because of the time it takes oil to dry, actually to oxidize into drying. It is mainly a concern for painters using the traditional classical layering technique. If layer on top dries before a layer underneath, it can cause surface cracking in time.
And what if, after a month resting, I apply retouch varnish on the painting, does this still have any effect on dry liquin layers? Can linseed oil thinned paint, still receive more time to dry thoroughly? Thank you!
Can a liquin glaze be used over an oil painting that has dried for a month or so but isn't fully cured? I haven't used any mediums on the painting other than linseed oil up to this point.
I'm not really sure about that, John. There is a risk that, since Liquin dries so fast, it could cause cracking of not-quite-cured layers underneath. But don't take that one to the bank.
would linseed oil be a better option for glazing when you didnt used liquin for the underpaint you glaze on? i ask because the fat over lean "rule" since wouldnt the liquin glaze dry faster then the oil colors under it or does it just affect the touch dry status but the overall drying time kinda stays the same.
The jury is still out on that question. Fat over lean refers primarily to paying in layers rather than direct painting. Also, if the paint applications are thicker, linseed oil slightly thinned with an artist grad solvent is the safest bet.
If I Understood correctly , we should use refined linseed oil to make thicker paints more thinner. Would you use it from the very start? I thought any kind of oil is considered ‘ fat’ over lean. Thank you Diane
I don't favor adding medium to my paint provided it is a good consistency out of the tube. If coming out of the tube, the paint is too thick, I put in a drop at a time totally blended for the entire batch that goes on the palette prior to painting. I use Liquin only when I need a passage to dry more quickly. As far as fat over lean goes, yes, any oil is fat.
Thank you,I enjoyed your video alot.i am a beginner,but it doesn't matter.i create and paint what I feel.and I love it alot.thank you,I will go to your web site.😁🌟👍
I love liquin! For my first few years of oil painting I used only solvent and liquin. It’s one of the only things to make drying faster and I adore the glazing. Sometimes I also apply clear liquin to areas of the painting that I want to be extra shiny.
I am learning plein air painting would you suggest using liquin in first stages and then use thicker paint I am used to glazing with liquing but plein air is tricky!
Lee, I suggest using no medium at all, especially in plein air. It is not necessary unless your paint is too stiff or if you need an area to dry more quickly.
Learned my lessen to not paint with this stuff indoors. Several days of severe headaches and disorientation. Its like magic tho love the stuff with ventilation.
Thank you for explaining this so clearly so very helpful. I have two questions for you : First what do you have in the pot attached to your easel that you dip your brush to remove the paint before you use it again? Secondly your palette has a thick boarder of various colours that seem never to dry and you seem to use the paint so sparingly ... how do they not harden beyond use please. I find even after an hour or two my colours on my palette will dry before I have finished using them. With very best wishes Gill
I explain the colors that stay on the palette at the beginning of Quick Tip 115 - th-cam.com/video/RORenwUXMDI/w-d-xo.html . They remain there from one session to the other and yes, they do dry, but they are there for reference. I put fresh paint out for each session. I use Turpenoid mineral spirits to keep my brushes rinsed while working.
Hello, Could you please tell me, what if you place a glaze with liquin over a kind off a thick layer of paint? Does it get cracked?? Or does liquin prevends precisely this? Really enjoy your videos, thank you.
I don't really know the answer to that. A lot depends upon how thick the underlayer is and how long it's been dry. Even though Liquin has been on the market since the 1970's, we still don't have a real long-term time-test on it. Unlike some of the mediums used for centuries, there's still a lot about Liquin's long term durability that we don't know. What we do know is that is creates a chemical reaction with the binder in the oil paint that speeds up the drying.
Thankyou once again Dianne. I understand you wouldn’t use liquin as a drying medium for acrylics, but could you use it as a glaze with acrylics. (No Charlie today)
That sounds okay. I've never thought of using liquin for glazing over acrylics, but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work as long as the paint is thoroughly dry. (Fortunately, Charley was napping during this one.)
Thanks a lot for this Dianne! Can I ask if it’s safe to use linseed oil + turpentine mixture, on top of a layer that was done with Liquin Original? The layer that with liquin has dried for about 3 days now. Hope you could help. Thank you!
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction Thanks a lot for the response! It's only my first time to use Liquin, and noticed that it dries too fast for me. I think I'm not that fast enough of a painter. Also, the paint on my palette dries really quick, even before I use them all up. I think it's such a waste of paint that way.
I am going for a matte finish on my work. I didn't realize the gloss I would get with Liquin. Someone suggested that I do a turp rub after the painting was dry and I did that and was very happy that it put a nice flat velvety look to the work. I do geometric abstracts. I like to work with thin glazes and someone suggested that I squeeze out my paint on to cardboard to remove some oil and then thin it with turp (no liquin) to get the consistency and flat sheen which I did on my next work. but it is sitting there two weeks later and the first layer is still very sticky. So, can I use a combination of turp and liquin to thin my paint or can I now do a layer of just liquin over top of those wet layers to speed up the dry time now that the paint is already down? (new to oil painting). Thank you for your time and tips.
Jude, be careful who you take advice from. Turp is a solvent and when used alone weakens the integrity of oils which can cause the painting's surface to be vulnerable. I suggest you go over to the Gamblin website ( gamblincolors.com/tips-and-techniques/ ) and thoroughly go through their discussions about mediums. You might find a matte medium that will be safe to use. Also, it's chancy to apply just liquin between layers because that could cause cracking of the surface later on.
I use the expensive Liquin for some time. But it dryes terribly fast on the bottle top and lid and even gets hard if the bottle is about half empty. Then it can hardly be used anymore. I closed the bottle very carefully after cleaning it.
What about liquin's place within the "fat over lean" discussion? Is this make it lean? If I paint with liquin added, can I add regular oil paint on top next day?
As far as we know, if you're using Liquin throughout the painting, you don't have to consider fat over lean because all the layers will dry at the same rate. The fat over lean principle is used when no dryers are used within the paint. It's purpose is to prevent cracking when a layer of paint dries slower than one on top of it.
Liquin is mildly thixotropic. Thixotropy is the property of certain fluids and gels of becoming thinner when a constant force is applied and after reduction of the force the viscosity recovers fully to the initial state in an appropriate period of time. The higher the force that is applied, the lower the viscosity becomes. Liquin is also like any other medium in that the more you thin your pigment, the more likely the yellowing over time. With Liquin, which is an alkyd based medium, yellowing will appear much faster after 25% mixture with your paint. Yellowing after 25% saturation will occur within one year.
I have the same pochade box and wondering how you store your paints when not uses them? I keep my palette (two pieces of glass with grey paper taped in the middle) in the freezer to keep my paint fresh between painting session. I’m dying to know what you do.
Thank you good video very informative....I have a request how about doing a video on painting realism...using layers of liquins..like shud we go dark to light or vice versa? The importance of gamsol n galkyds too. ☺️👍 Thanks
I might have already answered that in Quick Tip 178 - th-cam.com/video/ZRg7sz-amk4/w-d-xo.html , Watch it, then if I didn't answer it there, leave another comment and I'll take it from there.
just bought this and i was thinking of returning it because i am not sure how to dispose of it. Do you just throw away paper towels that have it? What about the cups of water that have liquin in them because of putting your paint brush in it? Can i pour it down the drain or do i pour it in a trash can or wipe the inside of the cup with paper?
Liquin is an alkyd based medium designed for use with oil paints. It is not water soluble. You use it like any other painting medium, but its advantage is that it enables fast drying. Never pour it down the drain. Please Google "Liquin" for a complete discourse.
Thanks Dianne :) Sorry if the following questions are silly or, worse still, “sinful” 😬 Can I use Liquin with water soluble oils? Or any other medium for that matter? I mean, would there be any point using it for any medium other than oil paint? If there is a point, would I still be able to do the clean up with water? Just not sure if Liquin is water soluble.
It's not a silly question. Whether we mix different kinds of mediums depends up whether they are water-soluble and/or compatible. Liquin is not water-soluble, so is not mixable with a water-soluble medium. Liquin is a catalyst to speed the oxidation of plant-based oils, such as linseed, poppy, walnut, etc.
Thankyou, a great tutorial and very well demonstrated, you have just solved a problem for me with that. I have just subscribed to you as well. Once again, thankyou, I look forward to viewing some of your other tutorials.
Did johannes vermeer use liquin as a glaze? Will the portrait have more depth if i ad a thin layer of glaze on the whole painting with zincwhite and liquin when i finnish with the painting?
No. Liquin had not yet been invented in Vermeer's day. I would have to give you a definite no for applying a thin layer of zinc white and Liquin over a finished painting.
So, then if I mainly used linseed oil to thin my paint, and when I'm done painting, can I now after a few days, start to glaze using liquin? Wouldn't the faster drying liquin seal off my painting underneath from drying further at slower rate? This is what still confuses me. Thank you for your video's!
Technically, glazing is best done when underneath layers are dry. If those layers are thick, that requires a long time. To be safe, if you are using Liquin, it would be safer to use it all the way through for both thinning paint layers and glazing.
Thanks for the info. Is it possible to use liquin with oil paint & block printing medium for use on linocut blocks? I’m working on reduction printing but finding that each layer dries very slowly when I use oil paint & block printing medium. Very frustrating! Thanks for your help.
For block printing I've done, I always used block printing inks which are designed to be compatible with block pringint so I hesitate to try to answer your question, but I suspect Liquin could be used to facilitate drying. HOWEVER, you'd have to be sure to thoroughly clean your blocks after each run because once Liquin dries, it is impossible to clean it. My better judgement wants to advise you switch to the block printing inks rather than use oil paint.
Main question is concerning the fat over lean principle when it comes to liquin. Ilve seen many paint with just liquin. Normally each layer should have more oil to make it fatter than the previous and so more flexible. Liquin though is a fast drying medium. Not sure how it would be used to meet this principle, or if it does not even need to follow this principle like how a couple have said?
Daniel, fat over lean refers to the traditional use of oil paint and does not take driers into consideration. It also applies to the practice of painting in layers rather than alla prima or direct painting. The purpose of the principle is to prevent cracking of the paint as it dries. Liquin is a drier meaning chemically it speeds up the oxidation of the oil binder in the paint. So, the consideration when using Liquin is that if you are doing indirect painting, you use it throughout in proportions so that a layer on top does not dry prior to one underneath it.
Thank you Dianne. I needed to add a signature to an otherwise completely dry painting. I used a bit of liquin to the oil paint and the signature was dry to the touch by next morning. How much time should I give it before varnishing the entire paining?
If you want your glazing to be transparent, then it's better to use transparent colors. Opaque colors, when thinned with medium, reveal particles of paint within the glaze.
Hello Dianne, Being a retired man, I've been filling a lot of my time with building and painting models and dioramas, but just 2 weeks ago, I decided that I wanted to try something new...painting with oils. The last time I used oils was when I was 16 during my school art lessons. I saw mentioned on another video about the benefits of using Liquin medium, so I ordered a bottle at the same time I ordered an easel, paints, brushes, canvasses, pallette knives etc, but when I received the bottle, yesterday, I became concerned about the health warnings on the rear of the bottle....harmful if breathed in, requiring lots of ventilation, washing the skin for 5 minutes if there is contact with the skin, and, even fatal if accidentally ingested. What are your feelings about these warnings, and, is there a safer alternative medium to use? Thanks in advance for any advice you might offer. Martin.
Martin, a lot of artists' materials contain similar labeling. These days there are laws requiring it. As with working with any material that is not made specifically for personal care or eating, I'd say just be smart rather than fearful. I've used Liquin for decades with no ill effects.
Hello Dianne, Thank you for your timely response, greatly appreciated. I’ve laid my base colors down for my first painting and will be back at my easel on Wednesday to add my next layers, wherein I’ll be trying out Liquin for the first time. I shall take caution but look forward to seeing how it works. Thanks, Martin
@Diane Mize I wish you were my teacher in school. Your kindness and grace come through in everything you do. Thanks for sharing your gifts.
Wow, thank you!
You are amazing Dianne. I have a Master's Degree in painting, but I always learn new things from you. Thank you for your clear and concise explanations of techniques and materials.
Thanks.
Thank you, DIanne, I saw a bottle of Liquin just today in the store and wondered about it and also heard someone speak of it today online so your video is very timely! It was very helpful to see you actually mix color with it.
It's called serendipity. 😊
You are an exceptionally good teacher - all very helpful - topics always brought to the point, without annoying music, thanks for your many good tips
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much! This helped me a ton!!! Especially the last tip about not using it to thin thick paint!
My pleasure.
After half an hour of searching around how to use my Liquin I found this video. Thanks so much for the very clear explanations Dianne! You've just made yourself a new fan^^
You're very welcome!
Thank you for that you explain thoroughly instead of assuming we already know obvious steps. As a very beginning beginner I appreciate that so much! Your an amazing teacher. Thank you for illustrating each step.
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching.
Another topic that is often confusing, very well explained. Simple but comprehensive at the same time. Thanks for these most helpful quick tips. 8 min chocked full of useful material. Thanks so much Dianne.
My pleasure. Thanks so much for watching.
Dianne, thanks very much for the tip. If it is useful to your audience, the way I normally use liquin is by adding only the tip of my palette (3-5 drops perhaps) to my mixes of turpentine and linseed oil (respectively and by stage in parts 1:0, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, 0:1-- fat over lean rule) these 5 ml in total. With those mixes I go for the particular paint consistency (texture) I need. In this way paint mostly "dries" overnight.
Cheers and thanks again.
Thanks, fb.
FB, may I ask what type of paint you are adding you mixture to?
The paints I generally use are Winsor and Newton, and M Harding, other brands too. This mixes of turps / oils (one or two drops at most) only to attain a certain buttery consistency and overall homogeneity of paint texture and drying time. The quintessential aspect of academic oil painting is gradually build up fat (linseed oil %) over lean (turpentine %) layers. Some paints, like titanium white are rather thick and stiff and require more. Sometimes one wants precisely thickness and stiffness, for example for dry brush techniques. Other times, runny and almost watery, for an initial staining. This does not apply to alla prima: with this overall paint consistency, no turps, no dessicants, perhaps retardants, only linseed oil or no extra oil. All in one go, two to three working days, and let it dry. Good fun and better luck 🤞
fb pliegorrivero FB ...I am new to the ratio part. What exactly are you referring to with these. And are you adding liquin to each..if so how much. For us new painters in oil I would be very appreciative for a more thorough explanation. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Dianne, I recently started to use Liquin and I find it to be really useful for drying the paint and for glazing. I tend not to use it when I paint skies and water as I prefer to let the paint dry slowly so that if I want to go back to the subject in the first 24 hours I can still continue to add paint and blend it in.
I use it sparingly, too, Kevin--only when I need areas to dry more quickly.
THANK YOU AGAIN DEAR DIANNE AND GOD BLESS...
As always, it's a pleasure.
Great explanation! Painted with it today and i really enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing
Great to hear! Keep enjoying the journey.
So so helpful :) plus she’s so soothing to listen too
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this , I don’t work with liquin often and forgot some of my technique using it but watching your video helped me so much !
Thanks for watching.
You are the very best of the best art teachers.
Wow, thank you!
Such a useful tutorial. I was exactly looking for liquin mixing with titanium white and clicked first on ur tutorial which has given me so much clarity. Thank you, u look lovely in white shirt 🥰
My pleasure 😊
I have used Liquin for years as I paint in very thin layers, I love it because the paint is dry enough to add another layer the next day, I also use the fine detail Liquin when needed. They also do an impasto version which allows thick impasto layers to dry quickly too.
Thanks for this input.
Have you tried using Liquin glazes with added layers of Retouch Varnish?
Great presentation. Thank you
You bet.
Thanks very much. You have clarified the mystery of liquin for me.
Great.
Thank you so much .. I love you
Welcome 😊 And thanks.
Just discovered this channel. This lady is incredibly charming.
Thanks. Welcome aboard.
Hi, really like all the tips you show, as I am fairly new to oil painting I find your channel the go to channel and look for previous tips etc. Thank you very much for the help you give.
Thanks for watching.
Dianne thank you so much for your amazing teaching. Coming from water colour and gouache to oil I was very nervous and felt like I could no longer paint but through your videos I’ve learnt so much and I really will be forever great full for that
The medium is not necessarily the message, as Marshall McCluen claimed decades ago. Transitioning from one medium to another can expand your horizons in painting. It's just learning a new technique, but the principles of composing (mixing color, placing shapes, balancing, etc.) are universal.
Thank you for sharing your expertise. It helped me.
That's good to know. Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much Teacher Dianne, all my doubts were gone with your helpful instructions. I have the liquin original, and I will use it to make a portrait with the glazing method.
I'm delighted my teaching is helping dispel your doubts. All it takes to dispel doubts is knowledge and that's what I'm hoping to give with these Tips.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction thank you so much teacher, greetings from Paraguay. I would like to show you my artwork when I finish, with glazing technique using liquin, may I send you a pic by email? If you want, of course
I've done a few decent oils flipping from watercolor. I couldn't for the life of me remember that it was liquin that gave me the drying time I prefer. A couple questions. I have a bottle that seems to have separated. Can it be revived? The top layer in the bottle is hard, perhaps dried out permanently. Secondly I note the piles of paint on your palette. How often do you add to that or remove it. I have seem artists with piles 3 inches tall. It must have something to do with the fact that oil takes a long time to dry, thus the surface of the glob let's say, remains useful. I take it you dedicate this pochade to oils. Thx again.
Paul, Liquin cannot be reconsituted. Best, I think, to discard that bottle and get a fresh one.
Thank you Dianne! Quick, clear and covered the most important info. I’m starting my first ever oil painting class in May and I’m in the process of painting the undersurface of my glass pallet with 3 shades of grey (dark, Medium and then light) in thirds. It seems to take forever to dry! Maybe this is normal. I also have a small bottle of Liquin Original and wondered how to use it to speed up the drying process. Now I know!
Glad it was helpful!
I truly cannot wait till you have a zoom workshop on a Saturday...I miss out because I work 😶
Dinese, I will throw this out to our team.
Would you please do an ocean with waves and rocks and shore . ✌️👍 your videos are the best to learn , I appreciate you taking your time 🙏
Mehdi, I will put your request on our schedule.
That was amazing, thank you!
You bet!
Thank you for the information! This provided the insight I needed, since I’m currently learning/testing new mediums. 😊
Great. Have fun with this.
Thank you Dianne.. Aloha 🤙
You are so welcome
Helpful! Thanks for posting.
You're welcome!
Two things I noticed about Liquin - 1. if a lot is used it dries shiny, which sometimes is good, sometimes bad for me. 2. Colors don’t seem to dry as dull when using liquin so I don’t have to oil out or use retouch varnish. I also assume the wait time to varnish will greatly be reduced for a finished painting. But a question - if I use a bit of liquin in every bit of paint I put down do I have to follow the fat over lean rule.
Dan, I've seen lots of discussion about that. Whether we follow the fat over lean rule does depend upon the drying speed of layers, so I'd say what you watch for is consistency in how much Liquin is added. Since oil oxidizes rather than evaporates, and Liquin is a catalyst, that should be easy to guage.
About the varnishing, that too has to do with not sealing oxygen away from the paint before underneath layers are dry. If your paint layers are not thick, then yes, Liquin will cut down on the drying time.
Very Interesting, I'm always looking for something New. THANK YOU.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your time on this.
My pleasure.
Oh thank you for explaining the use of Liquin! (And thanks for the viewer’s question!)
Viewer's questions make this Quick Tip adventure work. My pleasure to do them.
Many thanks for your tutorial help I learnt a lot from it
You are welcome! Thanks for watching.
Thank you very much!! 🙏🙏 You are a treasure!!
You're very welcome!
Thank you for your valuable advices
My pleasure.
Hello Diane, I will admit that I have used the liquin by dipping into it during use. It I'm using a good amount of paint though, it's not mixed in unless I'm doing that on the canvas. You say it can take a week for paint to dry otherwise. The work has to sit that long? Is there not a sweetspot where it's dry enough? And can linseed oil be used with the liquin? Thx
Paul, oil paint oxidizes rather than evaporates. Add to that--various tube colors dry at different rates. Linseed oil is the preferred binder in oil paint, so adding more doesn't speed up the drying. But Liquin is catalyst that speeds up the oxidation. Colbalt dryer will do this, too.
Great video! Super useful info on liquin thanks!
Great. Thanks for watching.
Does fat over lean apply to Liquin?
I’ve just finished an alla prima still life where I used quite thick brushstrokes loaded with liquid original. If next week I decide to glaze it or touch it up with a THIN layer of paint mixed with liquin, will the fat over lean rule be broken here with all the known consequences? I’d really appreciate your expertise before I ordered more liquin products. Thank you ❤
Keep in mind that Liquin is a drying agent, not a medium for loosening the thickness of oil paint. If you apply Liquin to a top layer of oil paint, your Liquin layer will dry long before the oil layer underneath, creating a danger of the top layer cracking as the layer underneath it dries.
Thanks for all the useful information
My pleasure.
What a nice lady, thanks for the great lesson.
😊
Liquin is COOL. It helps oils and drying and glazing. Very useful.
This dude knows what he is saying!
I hope you might be able to answer a question for me before I get back on Monday to a painting I've been working on. I just started painting about 2 months ago. I was just talking to somebody about it the other day and I told them I chose oil paint because the paintings I've seen in museums, the oil ones always seemed to have a glow that none of the acrylics ever had. Then I told her that I do see that glow, even though my paintings don't glow anywhere near what I had seen.
Immediately she told me "Once you finish your painting, let it dry for a few days. Then take a big brush and apply a thin layer of liquin over the top of it."
So far I haven't found any videos or articles showing people doing this. I haven't tried it yet. And I don't want to mess up my painting. Is this good advice for achieving a glow like I've seen in museums?
Thank you for making videos! You seem like a very sweet lady, a nice change from most people on TH-cam. I'll be hoping a looking for a response.
Sorry about the delay in answering this. I've been recovering from knee replacement surgery.
The conservators tell us it is not wise to use Liquin as a varnish which is what this person advised you to do. Paintings you see in museums most likely have been varnished with a high gloss final picture varnish. This should be a professional high quality such as the final varnishes made by Gamblin or Winsor Newton.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction I had a feeling you were going to answer me eventually, so I held off on using anything. Thank you for the help! I'll be looking for a varnish soon.
MOST HELPFUL!!
So glad!
Can you touch on using galkyd as a medium to glaze, and also, how do you clean your brushes without using turpoids, I've been trying out Murphy's oil soap
Please see Quick Tips 249, 160 and 7. I think these three answer your questions, mostly.
Galkyd is Gamblin's version of Liquin. It is a synthetic resin that facilitates fast drying. As a glaze medium, it works just like Liquin.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction thank you so much
Thank you for the very good lesson very helpful
You bet!
So, about the fat over lean rule, should I use less and less liquin in each new layer?? Or is it ok to use liquin in all layers and then use it to glaze too?
Kiko, the jury is still out on Liquin as to how it figures in to the fat over lean principle. For over lean came into the oil painting process because of the time it takes oil to dry, actually to oxidize into drying. It is mainly a concern for painters using the traditional classical layering technique. If layer on top dries before a layer underneath, it can cause surface cracking in time.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction Thanks a lot!
And what if, after a month resting, I apply retouch varnish on the painting, does this still have any effect on dry liquin layers? Can linseed oil thinned paint, still receive more time to dry thoroughly?
Thank you!
Can a liquin glaze be used over an oil painting that has dried for a month or so but isn't fully cured? I haven't used any mediums on the painting other than linseed oil up to this point.
I'm not really sure about that, John. There is a risk that, since Liquin dries so fast, it could cause cracking of not-quite-cured layers underneath. But don't take that one to the bank.
Thanks Dianne!!
My pleasure.
Thank you so much!!! It’s very helpful ❤️
You're so welcome!
would linseed oil be a better option for glazing when you didnt used liquin for the underpaint you glaze on? i ask because the fat over lean "rule" since wouldnt the liquin glaze dry faster then the oil colors under it or does it just affect the touch dry status but the overall drying time kinda stays the same.
The jury is still out on that question. Fat over lean refers primarily to paying in layers rather than direct painting. Also, if the paint applications are thicker, linseed oil slightly thinned with an artist grad solvent is the safest bet.
Very helpful, thank-you!
My pleasure.
Thank you, you helped me. You’re such an adorable lady if I must say.
Thanks for that.
You’re welcome!
If I Understood correctly , we should use refined linseed oil to make thicker paints more thinner. Would you use it from the very start? I thought any kind of oil is considered ‘ fat’ over lean. Thank you Diane
I don't favor adding medium to my paint provided it is a good consistency out of the tube. If coming out of the tube, the paint is too thick, I put in a drop at a time totally blended for the entire batch that goes on the palette prior to painting. I use Liquin only when I need a passage to dry more quickly.
As far as fat over lean goes, yes, any oil is fat.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction got it, thank you!
Excellent explanation missus 😉
Thank you,I enjoyed your video alot.i am a beginner,but it doesn't matter.i create and paint what I feel.and I love it alot.thank you,I will go to your web site.😁🌟👍
Wonderful!
Thank you, Ma'am. Will mixing liquin with linseed oil cause an issue?
Not at all
I love liquin! For my first few years of oil painting I used only solvent and liquin. It’s one of the only things to make drying faster and I adore the glazing. Sometimes I also apply clear liquin to areas of the painting that I want to be extra shiny.
Be careful with adding too much Liquin. It's purpose is to facilitate drying, but too much of it can yellow your passages of paint.
Have you tried Liquin Glazes in conjunction with layers of Retouch Varnish?
Thank you for explaing this! Really helpful :).
Happy painting.
Always so informative. Now I get it ...lol... thank you so much for explaining this . Your amazing 😍😍❤
Thanks.
I am learning plein air painting would you suggest using liquin in first stages and then use thicker paint I am used to glazing with liquing but plein air is tricky!
Lee, I suggest using no medium at all, especially in plein air. It is not necessary unless your paint is too stiff or if you need an area to dry more quickly.
Thank you again for your helpful videos.
As long as folks find these helpful, I'll keep doing them.
My pleasure.
Yes can to show your paint box looks interesting
I do that in Quick Tip 172
So very helpful, thank you!
You're so welcome!
Thank you; love glazing, but didn’t know anything about the properties of liquid.
You’re welcome 😊
Awesome video! Thank you!
Thanks for watching.
Learned my lessen to not paint with this stuff indoors. Several days of severe headaches and disorientation. Its like magic tho love the stuff with ventilation.
Good ventilation is necessary.
Thank you for explaining this so clearly so very helpful.
I have two questions for you : First what do you have in the pot attached to your easel that you dip your brush to remove the paint before you use it again? Secondly your palette has a thick boarder of various colours that seem never to dry and you seem to use the paint so sparingly ... how do they not harden beyond use please. I find even after an hour or two my colours on my palette will dry before I have finished using them. With very best wishes Gill
I explain the colors that stay on the palette at the beginning of Quick Tip 115 - th-cam.com/video/RORenwUXMDI/w-d-xo.html . They remain there from one session to the other and yes, they do dry, but they are there for reference. I put fresh paint out for each session.
I use Turpenoid mineral spirits to keep my brushes rinsed while working.
Wonderful channel 💞
Thanks.
Thank You, very helpful.
My pleasure.
Hello, Could you please tell me, what if you place a glaze with liquin over a kind off a thick layer of paint? Does it get cracked?? Or does liquin prevends precisely this?
Really enjoy your videos, thank you.
I don't really know the answer to that. A lot depends upon how thick the underlayer is and how long it's been dry. Even though Liquin has been on the market since the 1970's, we still don't have a real long-term time-test on it. Unlike some of the mediums used for centuries, there's still a lot about Liquin's long term durability that we don't know.
What we do know is that is creates a chemical reaction with the binder in the oil paint that speeds up the drying.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction I see, thank you very much :D
Thankyou once again Dianne.
I understand you wouldn’t use liquin as a drying medium for acrylics, but could you use it as a glaze with acrylics.
(No Charlie today)
That sounds okay. I've never thought of using liquin for glazing over acrylics, but I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work as long as the paint is thoroughly dry.
(Fortunately, Charley was napping during this one.)
Thanks a lot for this Dianne! Can I ask if it’s safe to use linseed oil + turpentine mixture, on top of a layer that was done with Liquin Original? The layer that with liquin has dried for about 3 days now. Hope you could help. Thank you!
I think so, but I wonder why you want to switch to linseed oil + turps.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction Thanks a lot for the response! It's only my first time to use Liquin, and noticed that it dries too fast for me. I think I'm not that fast enough of a painter. Also, the paint on my palette dries really quick, even before I use them all up. I think it's such a waste of paint that way.
I am going for a matte finish on my work. I didn't realize the gloss I would get with Liquin. Someone suggested that I do a turp rub after the painting was dry and I did that and was very happy that it put a nice flat velvety look to the work. I do geometric abstracts. I like to work with thin glazes and someone suggested that I squeeze out my paint on to cardboard to remove some oil and then thin it with turp (no liquin) to get the consistency and flat sheen which I did on my next work. but it is sitting there two weeks later and the first layer is still very sticky. So, can I use a combination of turp and liquin to thin my paint or can I now do a layer of just liquin over top of those wet layers to speed up the dry time now that the paint is already down? (new to oil painting). Thank you for your time and tips.
Jude, be careful who you take advice from. Turp is a solvent and when used alone weakens the integrity of oils which can cause the painting's surface to be vulnerable. I suggest you go over to the Gamblin website ( gamblincolors.com/tips-and-techniques/ ) and thoroughly go through their discussions about mediums. You might find a matte medium that will be safe to use.
Also, it's chancy to apply just liquin between layers because that could cause cracking of the surface later on.
Thank you so much that was easy and simple explanation ♥️♥️
Glad it was helpful!
I use the expensive Liquin for some time. But it dryes terribly fast on the bottle top and lid and even gets hard if the bottle is about half empty. Then it can hardly be used anymore. I closed the bottle very carefully after cleaning it.
That's the nature of Liquin. Best to buy small bottles rather than one big bottle.
how long after you paint with liquin before you can varnish an oil painting.
If you use Liquin throughout the painting, it should be dry enough to varnish within 4 or 5 weeks.
What about liquin's place within the "fat over lean" discussion? Is this make it lean? If I paint with liquin added, can I add regular oil paint on top next day?
As far as we know, if you're using Liquin throughout the painting, you don't have to consider fat over lean because all the layers will dry at the same rate. The fat over lean principle is used when no dryers are used within the paint. It's purpose is to prevent cracking when a layer of paint dries slower than one on top of it.
Liquin is mildly thixotropic. Thixotropy is the property of certain fluids and gels of becoming thinner when a constant force is applied and after reduction of the force the viscosity recovers fully to the initial state in an appropriate period of time. The higher the force that is applied, the lower the viscosity becomes. Liquin is also like any other medium in that the more you thin your pigment, the more likely the yellowing over time. With Liquin, which is an alkyd based medium, yellowing will appear much faster after 25% mixture with your paint. Yellowing after 25% saturation will occur within one year.
Thanks for adding this information, Chris.
I have the same pochade box and wondering how you store your paints when not uses them? I keep my palette (two pieces of glass with grey paper taped in the middle) in the freezer to keep my paint fresh between painting session. I’m dying to know what you do.
Tracy, I explain that in Quick Tip 115.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction Thank you!!
Thank you good video very informative....I have a request how about doing a video on painting realism...using layers of liquins..like shud we go dark to light or vice versa? The importance of gamsol n galkyds too. ☺️👍 Thanks
I might have already answered that in Quick Tip 178 - th-cam.com/video/ZRg7sz-amk4/w-d-xo.html , Watch it, then if I didn't answer it there, leave another comment and I'll take it from there.
Thank you so much for this lesson,, ive learned how to use liquin original
You’re welcome 😊
just bought this and i was thinking of returning it because i am not sure how to dispose of it. Do you just throw away paper towels that have it? What about the cups of water that have liquin in them because of putting your paint brush in it? Can i pour it down the drain or do i pour it in a trash can or wipe the inside of the cup with paper?
Liquin is an alkyd based medium designed for use with oil paints. It is not water soluble. You use it like any other painting medium, but its advantage is that it enables fast drying. Never pour it down the drain. Please Google "Liquin" for a complete discourse.
Thanks Dianne :) Sorry if the following questions are silly or, worse still, “sinful” 😬 Can I use Liquin with water soluble oils? Or any other medium for that matter? I mean, would there be any point using it for any medium other than oil paint? If there is a point, would I still be able to do the clean up with water? Just not sure if Liquin is water soluble.
It's not a silly question. Whether we mix different kinds of mediums depends up whether they are water-soluble and/or compatible. Liquin is not water-soluble, so is not mixable with a water-soluble medium. Liquin is a catalyst to speed the oxidation of plant-based oils, such as linseed, poppy, walnut, etc.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction Thankyou 👍🏼
Thankyou, a great tutorial and very well demonstrated, you have just solved a problem for me with that. I have just subscribed to you as well. Once again, thankyou, I look forward to viewing some of your other tutorials.
Did johannes vermeer use liquin as a glaze? Will the portrait have more depth if i ad a thin layer of glaze on the whole painting with zincwhite and liquin when i finnish with the painting?
No. Liquin had not yet been invented in Vermeer's day.
I would have to give you a definite no for applying a thin layer of zinc white and Liquin over a finished painting.
@@IntheStudioArtInstruction thanks for your respons
So, then if I mainly used linseed oil to thin my paint, and when I'm done painting, can I now after a few days, start to glaze using liquin? Wouldn't the faster drying liquin seal off my painting underneath from drying further at slower rate? This is what still confuses me.
Thank you for your video's!
Technically, glazing is best done when underneath layers are dry. If those layers are thick, that requires a long time. To be safe, if you are using Liquin, it would be safer to use it all the way through for both thinning paint layers and glazing.
Thanks for the info. Is it possible to use liquin with oil paint & block printing medium for use on linocut blocks? I’m working on reduction printing but finding that each layer dries very slowly when I use oil paint & block printing medium. Very frustrating! Thanks for your help.
For block printing I've done, I always used block printing inks which are designed to be compatible with block pringint so I hesitate to try to answer your question, but I suspect Liquin could be used to facilitate drying. HOWEVER, you'd have to be sure to thoroughly clean your blocks after each run because once Liquin dries, it is impossible to clean it. My better judgement wants to advise you switch to the block printing inks rather than use oil paint.
Thank you very much ...great information
My pleasure.
Thankyou for your helpful videos kind regards jas
My pleasure.
Main question is concerning the fat over lean principle when it comes to liquin. Ilve seen many paint with just liquin. Normally each layer should have more oil to make it fatter than the previous and so more flexible. Liquin though is a fast drying medium. Not sure how it would be used to meet this principle, or if it does not even need to follow this principle like how a couple have said?
Daniel, fat over lean refers to the traditional use of oil paint and does not take driers into consideration. It also applies to the practice of painting in layers rather than alla prima or direct painting. The purpose of the principle is to prevent cracking of the paint as it dries. Liquin is a drier meaning chemically it speeds up the oxidation of the oil binder in the paint. So, the consideration when using Liquin is that if you are doing indirect painting, you use it throughout in proportions so that a layer on top does not dry prior to one underneath it.
Thank you Dianne. I needed to add a signature to an otherwise completely dry painting. I used a bit of liquin to the oil paint and the signature was dry to the touch by next morning. How much time should I give it before varnishing the entire paining?
For the Liquin, a week should be plenty of time.
Could I also use an opaque colour like Yellow Ocher or Cad. Red and add a bit more liquin to it to glaze with it?
If you want your glazing to be transparent, then it's better to use transparent colors. Opaque colors, when thinned with medium, reveal particles of paint within the glaze.
Very helpful!! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Hello Dianne,
Being a retired man, I've been filling a lot of my time with building and painting models and dioramas, but just 2 weeks ago, I decided that I wanted to try something new...painting with oils. The last time I used oils was when I was 16 during my school art lessons. I saw mentioned on another video about the benefits of using Liquin medium, so I ordered a bottle at the same time I ordered an easel, paints, brushes, canvasses, pallette knives etc, but when I received the bottle, yesterday, I became concerned about the health warnings on the rear of the bottle....harmful if breathed in, requiring lots of ventilation, washing the skin for 5 minutes if there is contact with the skin, and, even fatal if accidentally ingested. What are your feelings about these warnings, and, is there a safer alternative medium to use? Thanks in advance for any advice you might offer.
Martin.
Martin, a lot of artists' materials contain similar labeling. These days there are laws requiring it. As with working with any material that is not made specifically for personal care or eating, I'd say just be smart rather than fearful. I've used Liquin for decades with no ill effects.
Hello Dianne,
Thank you for your timely response, greatly appreciated. I’ve laid my base colors down for my first painting and will be back at my easel on Wednesday to add my next layers, wherein I’ll be trying out Liquin for the first time. I shall take caution but look forward to seeing how it works.
Thanks,
Martin
My small bottle of liquid is stuck closed ...as a metal lid...was given I to me ....any ideas how to get lid off?
Those lids are usually the child-proof kinds. Try pliers, pushing down as you twist. If you have adjustable locking pliers, that will work best.