How to Install Permanent Light Seals for the Nikon F3 SLR Film Camera
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- In the future I hope to make these types of videos on my channel free from the normal affiliate links found in my other posts. Until I'm able to do so, here are a few things that help (and I mean a lot) keep the channel running:
Again, it would likely be easier...and cheaper to source the yarn and felt locally. However, if you hate going out as much as I do or if you happen to not be able to find these things where you live, here they are on Amazon:
100% Cotton Yarn
(thicker than I used but should be fine) amzn.to/3lLYUtk
Self-adhering Felt Sheets amzn.to/3fR4KWo
The 99% Isopropyl Alcohol I use amzn.to/3xw8PFC
Dig the looks of the Nikon F3? Here's a search I saved for them on eBay.
ebay.us/pOxG5V
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In their great wisdom, TH-cam flagged the first upload of this video for having the radio playing in the background. So if you're wondering about the choppy audio in some portions of this re-upload...I did my damnest to cut the audio so it wouldn't be flagged again. There you go. These things happen.
I have my late dad’s old Nikon F2 that he used professionally during the Vietnam era (as well as his “back-up” Nikkormat FT2). I absolutely love and use both those cameras. That said I’ve always wanted an F3. Fantastic video!
Wow! Outstanding keepsakes and great cameras. I'm sure they have seen a lot of history. I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
A few years ago my bro-in-law gave me a Nikkormat FT N . The light seals were mushy goo so I never used it. I have now reworked the seals .It feels good when I close it. I ran a roll through at the park and the film is in the processors hands now. The prints will tell the tale... I'm trying to wait patiently.... trying. Your video is very good. Easy to follow your directions. Thank you very much. I have several more to re-hab if this worked as good as I expect! Thank you.
That's fantastic to hear, Mark! The Nikkormats are complete workhorses. And they shoot alarmingly fast for their time period. I hope it all goes well. Feel free to keep me updated on how it turns out. And you're most welcome for the episode, glad it helped you with your project.
The roll worked and came out good. The only shot that looked bad was user malfunction... I blew it. I am having a great time with the old film cameras. You make good videos. Easy to follow along and your "conversation" while going through the process is easy on the ears. Keep it up! The old film cameras are developing a following of new photographers and we need your lessons... gotta keep 'em runnin'!!
@@markgoostree6334 Well that's fantastic to hear, my friend. Glad you had some success. And don't sweat the mishap...I literally destroyed two rolls of Ilford HP5 yesterday and still don't know what happened.
Hi Adam, just wanted to thank you for your work. I was able to follow your instructions on an F3 handed down to me from my grandparents. It's been lying unused for almost 20 years, looking forward to shoot with it and getting into film!
This was a fantastic comment to wake up to this morning! So glad to hear your F3 is going to have a second life. I hope it all works well for you and the video could be of some help.
Man, you really nailed that top mirror seal ! Colour me impressed !
Behind the big mirror there's another little one with it's own foam that needs replacing.
You missed that.
Carefully manually flip the big mirror halfway and look behind it :-)
I wouldn't say I've been "missing it", Max. Hahaha...ha.
I didn't have any toothpicks, so I used a little piece of coffee filter left over from a CPU thermal paste re-do. It works pretty good for the channel cleaning. I used Ronsons lighter fluid and it works fine.
The F3 is sufficiently well sealed it can go without door seals (I took my deteriorated seals out years ago and have never had a light leak). Depends on how straight your door is I suppose. I would tack the cotton in with a dab of rubber cement in the channel in about 4-5 places, and I would definitely leave a gap over the frame counter reset. On the F3 that frame counter is an engineering achilles heal, as the counter wheel just behind that switch has electrical contacts that disable the shutter speeds on the first couple frames & you don't want to risk any fibers getting into that mechanism--you risk making the shutter and or AE intermittent, and you won't know until you develop the film since the shutter will still fire, just not at the speed you expect. As for the mirror, foam was chosen there for more specific reasons, I feel that should be matched to the original as closely as possible. But it is such a workhorse it can, like the door, probably work just fine without anything at all, though why risk it?
Hey Tim, it's funny you mention about the door being inherently light sealed just from the lip. I had actually used this F3 for a number of years (even with the door rattling) until I finally started seeing some leaks at the top and bottoms of all my rolls; that's when I decided to replace the seals as I've shown here. I'm not sure if you watched the entire video but I mention a few times that I use this technique primarily due to the fact that minimal adhesive is required, meaning that I (or someone else) hopefully won't have to face the same problems which are unavoidably encountered with foam seals. I've lost track but I THINK I've performed this type of yarn replacement on seven cameras now and have observed zero issues with the yarn dislodging even after heavy use (and some accidental rain on my Olympus) so as long as the yarn is of relatively proper size to the track it seems to hold up well without adhesive. As for the mirror foam, I feel like you're referring to shock absorption? I actually considered this as well but the felt I've been using is strangely thick and seems cushion that slap just fine. For the frame counter consideration, I can't really speak to that one other than so far so good. Since you have an actual repair shop I'd like to ask you about that shutter speed you mentioned relating to the frame counter: are you saying it will default to the 1/80th mechanical speed? Is there a some sort of electronic trip that reverts the shutter mechanism back to electric control?
@@AdamWelch Hi Adam, Yes, there are electronic contacts on the wheel (beneath where the frame numbers are printed) that tell the camera to default to 1/60 and to disable the meter before reaching frame #1. It's actually a plastic cylinder with imbedded copper strips, like a potentiometer. I've seen this mechanism fail or go intermittent on several cameras (usually from dirt or debris) causing the shutter to not fire properly at different points in the roll. I actually really hate this feature as I like to shoot the extra frame or two on the beginning of a roll, so I disabled it on my personal camera
@@TucsonAnalogWorkshop Very cool. Thanks a lot for the info.
Great video, I don't (yet) own an F3 but I have a couple of other SLR's of mine need this done and you've inspired me to have a try myself. I love the tip re the painter's tape, genius!
Thank you! Yeah this is something that I wish I had stumbled upon sooner. A friend of mine is sending me here Canonet QL17 III for a seal replacement as well so that will be a new experience.
Great video but a little tip when replacing the light seals on not just your F3 but F4 or any camera that has a T setting on your shutter speeds. Before you take the back off, fire the shutter because it will lock up the mirror and shutter, then open the film door/take if off and while the T setting is open and work away and you'll not drop anything on the shutter blades or mirror because there locked up out of the road. Them when your completely finished just change the shutter speed and your all good to go.
Wow. For whatever reason I have never considered doing that. I'll still tape up the mirror box but that is just me being me. Thanks for bringing that up because like I said I have no idea why that never occurred to me. Quick question you might have an answer for: on the F3, do you know if the battery is being expended during the shutter lock in 'T' mode? The reason I ask is that on my GS-1 Bronica when the timed shutter is used the battery is continually being expended to hold the shutter open. That's why the Zenzanon lenses have a handy little 'T' switch, which essentially disconnects the leaves from the shutter sensor when in timed mode. I just don't want to come away with dead batteries in the Nikon. Thanks again for the tip!
@@AdamWelch as far as I'm aware using T (timer) doesn't use any battery power because it was added for long night exposures. The funny thing is when I was watching your video and I just thought of locking the mirror and shutter up because I just couldn't had been bothered covering over the shutter blades when replacing the seals on mf F4, yes the idea literally just came to me lol. You could probably lock up any camera by using a cable release/remote in Bulb if no T if you wanted to try this when working at a camera.
Thanks for this video, very helpful! Just one thought on the 99% pure alcohol: that high of a percentage evaporates pretty quickly, that is why hand sanitizers usually have water as a "carrier". The water acts as a slow-down agent, so the alcohol has time to permeate and dissolve cell membrane walls.
I suspect you would be fine with using 70-80 percent alcohol, as it allows more "soak time", to break down the adhesive. I hope this comes across clearly, English isn't my first language :)
In the end, just do what works best for you of course!
You're definitely not wrong about the evaporation time of the alcohol. In fact, that's precisely why I use this grade for most of my projects in that it does evaporate quickly while leaving minimal residue. Generally, I use this alcohol for degreasing aperture blades and other parts like prisms and uncoated mirrors. Don't tell anyone, but I've used vodka before on foam seals haha
@@AdamWelch Haha, Wodka would work, work with what you have they say.
As far as coated glass (like the front element of the 50mm ais 1.4) what would you recommend to clean off fingerprints?
@@yoepvh9250 The only lens element cleaner that I've consistently used over the years and have had no problems with are Zeiss Wipes. They are individual packs of pre-moistened lens wipes and they do a great job at cutting oil. However, I find them to be a tad too wet after I clean the lens with the wipe I make sure to dry it with a clean microfiber cloth. I would also MOSTLY recommend ROR Optical lens cleaner. I say 'mostly' because I used ROR for years on both my lens elements and glass filters until one day I applied the ROR to a Breakthrough Photography Night Sky filter and it completely dissolved the coating; I'm serious, it turned the filter into a clear piece of glass. I sent the filter back to the company and they sent a replacement but never gave me any feedback on whether it was an issue with the filter or if the ROR was a problem. At any rate, I've never used the ROR again on anything that I know is coated. However, seeing as ROR is specifically intended to be used on extremely high-end lens elements such as microscopes I find it difficult to believe the cleaner would be harmful. Then again, res ipsa loquitur.
Love the thoroughness. Thank you.
Great video, but will get mine professionally done. I bought my F3 HPP in 1990, and checking the seals they still look good. Seems like they should be replaced with the original product.
Sure, no reason to do anything you don't feel comfortable with doing.
Looks quit simple with the yarn. Only thing I would be concerned with is that nothing is holding the yarn in place and in time it will slide out. I have personally done many light seals on several dozen SLR, TLR and medium format cameras and have always used the proper foam with adhesive that holds it in place. It takes a little more skillful work but it will never come off.
Hi Jorge, you're right, the yarn method is VERY simple and I love that anyone can make a great seal for themselves at home (obviously ha). You point out what I feel is the greatest drawback of "proper" foam seals: they are so difficult to remove especially once they degrade. With the yarn, it's inherent inertia (since it's so lightweight) makes it nearly impossible to dislodge unless the camera withstands a considerable impact with the camera open. In that case you'd likely have bigger problems than the seal.... Other than that, since the camera will be closed for the majority of the time, these non-foam seals seam to work extremely well so far, at least in the cameras where I've installed them. Granted, I've not installed seals on dozens of cameras, as you have, but on the six personal cameras of mine that I've installed them in ZERO have become dislodged or had any issues. The only thing that might dislodge this type of seal is if there happens to be a burr/abrasion on the rim of the camera back that fits in the track. This might snag the yarn. Of course, since the yarn doesn't use glue it can easily be replaced on the spot.
Yea, when I tell people to use a black cotton string , they think I am kidding , or want to deceive them.
Your finger oils will now transfer to your mirror when you handled that felt cutting it.
I lost my sebaceous glands in a tanning parlor accident in Manila. Thanks for bringing up the memory you heartless monster.
Used your recommended items to install new camera door seals and mirror bumper. Only concern that came out of this is that after scraping out the old gunk out of the camera door the yarn (you suggested) does keep the camera door from shutting smoothly. In fact you have to push pretty forcefully to get the door to shut.
The shutting of the door should become easier over time but of course if it's incredibly difficult to shut a smaller diameter yarn might be needed. Is this an F3 we're talking about? Every camera I performed this replacement on has a snug door for the first three or four closes but then normalizes as the door seats itself with the new seal.
Using such a yarn for sealing should be known as caulking - its the way water is kept out of wooden ships
Ah yes, I'm unfortunately quite familiar with using caulk. I wouldn't mind to never see a caulk gun for the rest of my life.... I like the term "light caulking" for some reason. I'll be over here waiting for someone to chime in with "Well awktually caulking only applies to liquid sealants." :D
Never put the focusing screen with the split image glass face down, easily could be damaged and its not reparable, if it breaks get ready more money than the best light seal foams… also avoid putting the finder with the glass face down. Both can be placed easy face up. There is a option in the speed selector marked with a letter T, if you put it there and shoot the curtain is gonna be hiden indefinitely until you move the speed selector again, in that way you avoid 100% to damage it, its good to put a tape anyway even doing it, but its safer even while putting the tape… Also i think there is good quality seals sold in the internet by a price that is not much, considering, if you do it right, could pass through 10 years without replacing it again… 😅 i was looking for someone who talk about the light seal foams sizes, im not sure witch ones should i buy for Nikon F3 (¿1mm, 1,5mm, 2mm, 2,5mm, 3mm?)but this video is very far from something a little bit professional…
Did you ever hear the tragedy of Darth Plagueis the Wise?
Considering the one seal is felt and lasts indefinitely, I have to wonder why they didn’t just use that material for all the seals!
I 100% agree. At the same time, the mirror pads on some cameras do need a bit of extra "cushion" depending on the model (I still use felt) and that is the only place where I MIGHT use foam. It's interesting that one of the things that gave me this idea was my Zorki 4K which had a glued nylon sting as a door seal from the factory.
@@AdamWelch I still have a few more older Nikons to clean out and reseal - the black stuff has turned to goo. It would seem it’s similar to the rubber Nikon uses on their grips on more modern SLR’s and DSLR’s! =p
I'm wondering how would you do the other light seal for the mirror, the one behind. Is it the same process as the cushion?
Nevermind, I just checked my rear mirror seal and it looks pristine. However, the cushion is completely destroyed. Gonna give this a shot soon!
@@MyHunter9090 Yeah it should be essentially the same process as removing the old seal and adhesive and then carefully replacing the seal. You'd need to remove the prism of course and it would be a slightly finicky process. Since mine looked fine I just left it as-is. It's interesting that your rear seal is pristine as well. Hopefully for whatever reason those don't wear out easily ha Good luck and let me know how it goes!
It’s doing my head in that I’m 4 minutes in and you haven’t taken 12 seconds to unclip that strap…
Who's got that kind of time?
@@AdamWelch Haha fair enough :-)
Not sure about the video but this guy is going to ruin the shoulders on this lovely camera with the stupid neck strap fittings
The neck strap fittings recieved a full scholarship to Yale and finished grad school with a PhD in economics from Brown. They currently hold a senior position with a financial consulting company in London. How dare you call them stupid, sir.
Yep should be the Nikon fabric strap. Safer too.
I have that strap. Why is it safer?