My dad got this camera in 1981 as a present from my grandfather. We were moving and found it a few weeks ago, and it still works perfectly. Watched your video to kind of get an idea of how it works so I can take pictures with my dad since we don't spend that much time together, so thanks so much for explaining
just a note...if anyone is having issues with rapid battery drain do the following. it's very rare and they usually last for months or years but I've heard it's been an issue for some. simply take battery out and thoroughly clean battery and compartment with deionised water...even if it looks spotless and reapply battery holding just the sides or with gloves on. even a slight layer of oils can effect performance. as soon as I did this issue resolved and battery currently going strong after 6 months. apart from this the camera is a real tank and lovely to shoot with. enjoy everyone
This is a very informative video that I keep coming back to. So nice to have such a clear & thorough tutorial in a sea of half-baked Nikon F3 TH-cam videos. Much appreciated!
Very helpful video for people who may have picked up one of these excellent cameras and are not sure how to use it. I have 5 of them and also found it helpful. There are a number of H2 videos on TH-cam where people who do not really know what they are talking about attempt to explain these things, to a point. This video is the real deal, so just use this one!
used to shoot digital with a loaner camera from my school, but since graduating and not being able to afford a dslr + lenses, i dug out my dad's camera kit with the f3 and a telephoto. i've been using the manual shutter release until i get the chance to pick up the right batteries but it's done me well so far. i can't wait to go adventuring with this camera over the summer. thanks for such a useful intro vid for this camera :)
I had two F3-HP's back in the 80's, swapped them for the new F4 and was like going to heaven. But still missed the HP, found one at a swap meet for $50.00. Still have that F3.
amazing video! I just got my Nikon f3 and am super excited to use! I was a bit confused with the light meter, but now think I understand. Thank you so much!
This week I will receive my first nikon F3 and I it's in very very good condition. Almost unused and I will use it with a nikkor 50 mm f/1.4 nikon f mount I really am excited to start shooting photos.
Wow, this was an amazing video and very imfomative I never knew such an old camera was packed with all that technology that we take for granted today. You are the best Prime Studios, I'll be watching all your videos FOR SURE!
GREAT tutorial. I’ve had any number of cameras for 25 years but this was my first Nikon. A few idiosyncrasies unique to Nikon. Thanks for the quick overview it helped me a lot.
Thank you so much for making this video. So helpful. I might've missed it but what does the switch at the base of the shutter dial do? It reveals a red dot, much like the on/off switch...
Thank you for the video I'm better acquainted with my F3HP now. I'm just wondering if removing the prism while the film is inside will ruin expose it. Also when I push on the film door when it's closed there's a little bit of looseness is this cause for concern?
Hi! Amazing video, thanks so much! I have a question... at 13:44, my light meter doesn't show + or - as I adjust the f... how can I fix this? Thanks so much!
The lens you see in the video is the Nikon 28mm f/2.8 AI which you can find here: amzn.to/2VH9LXv My favorite lens is probably the Nikon 50mm f/1.4D which you can find here: amzn.to/38mZYLg It's my favorite because it's fast, sharp, and lightweight, plus it gives the same focal length as the human eye.
An excellent tutorial/overview, just 1 slight nagging reservation, you used a black background with a fully black nikon camera, you should have used a pinch of diffused light onto the individual parts that you where describing, as it was a bit difficult to establish each respective item in dialogue.otherwise EGGcellent 🌚
Actually you can use a standard flash on them,you just need to purchase an AS-4 flash unit coupler...it slips over the the rewind knob and lets you use more modern flash units on it.
Thank you very much for the explanations. I wear glasses and I am struggling to see inside the HP viewfinder. Any ideas or comments how to correct this, if at all possible?
There are special eye pieces you can add to the view finder called diopters of different strengths to help correct for your vision. Once past 40 years old most humans inner lens of the eye becomes far less flexible and it becomes difficult, if not impossible to focus on things at close distances. The cheap answer might be using "cheaters" or magnifying glasses, or you could just do what I did and get laser eye surgery....Just google "Nikon F3 Diopters" and click the shopping tab, that should get you started.
This is my second time viewing this video. You’re a really good teacher, clear and concise in your explanations. Having used the camera several times recently, I’m having difficulty in focusing. It’s hard to see the split image in the centre, especially when trying to focus horizontal lines. Is there anything I can do to improve this?
Not much. If I'm having a lot of trouble with a split focus I will resort to either focusing on another object that's at the same distance, but has higher contrast and is easier to see and then reframe, or I'll try to use the distance measurements and guess. Lastly I might try just using a flashlight or something similar to illuminate the subject better for focusing.
Love this and love my F3. I'm still getting used to having to manual focus all my shots though. Do you know if different focusing screens can help with this? Thanks a lot
Yes they can be changed and it's quite easy! The hard part is finding the one you want for sale online. Here is a page describing the different kinds of screens you can get: bit.ly/2VTgsUX
Just got an F3 and a couple of great prime lenses! After watching your video, I think the little red button that turns on my LCD display might be jammed. Is this a common issue? Also, my prism is completely different. I have a cross-hair when I look through the viewfinder and no split-circle. If I replace the prism, would I be able to find one with this functionality? If so, what is it called? Thanks for this awesome walkthrough!
I hate that little red button to illuminate the display. I fell it is of very poor design. Also, the Nikon F3 was designed to have its viewfinder/prism replaced or supplemented very easily, so having a different viewfinder than the one I have in the video is common. You should be able to find different Nikon F3 prism viewfinders with a simple google search.
Often folks thing the red button is not working. You need to touch the shutter button to activate the light meter. Then when you press the red button the light works.
great video! needed a bit of a refresher on the camera and learned a whole lot more. Quick question, on AF lenses like the 24-70, how does the camera handle no iris on the lens?
I think you mean a more modern lens with the Nikon mount...as far as I can recall this camera will not engage auto focus on any lens. Also, without a ring to control the aperture, it will stay at the same f/stop for every photo. Likley the smallest f/stop available for that lens.
This was extremely helpful, thank you! I recently purchased a Nikon F3HP and the LCD portion of the viewfinder is incredibly dull, the illumination button doesn't help very much either. Is there anything I can do to perhaps make this better? I took off the prism finder and there wasn't a spec of dust inside either.
I'm afraid I don't know of any way to make the LCD more visible except to maybe shoot in brighter situations. That LCD is one of the things I strongly dislike on the F3.
...or the mirror in the fiewfinder is not on it's place, maybe bent. Mine was bent...I opened the fiewfinders cover and could see the mirrors. Than I put the finder on the camera and could fix it while looking through the finder itself. It was very easy! After that I replaced the cover and that's all - like new. But to be honest- there are some LCD-screens out of function while the cam was wrongly stored (too hot or too much moisture), than the flex-electronic-platine will lost the connection. Unfortunately there are no more repair parts at Nikon... There is no chance to fix it because it is too extreme tiny... best regards from Bonn, Germany
Great Review. My Nikon f3 reads two stops over as compared with the external light metre.I don't know how to fix it . Do u think all the Nikon f3 is like that? Any suggestions would be very helpful.
Hi, great video. I have two question , first what is the difference between F3 HP and standard F3 model? Second question if I use old Nikon non-AI lens can I use light meter with "M + -" signs to take photo with proper exposure?
Timestamp 19:10 shows how to meter using Non-AI lenses. The F3 HP has a different viewfinder (DE-3) for people with glasses to be able to see the entire frame even though their eyes are a little further away from the viewfinder. You lose a little magnification as a tradeoff.
@@PrimeStudios ok thanks. And one more question. If I will buy iso 400 film can I use iso 100 on camera or just iso 400? Can I use iso more than iso 400 for example iso 800 ? Can you explain that ?
Setting the camera's ISO setting to your film's ISO will ensure the light meter reads correctly. You can set your camera to a different ISO than your film, either lower or higher. This will have the effect of either under or over exposing your film, which you can compensate for by over or under developing. This is called pushing or pulling the film.
@@KK-ze8ye But if you intend to do this and are not processing the film yourself, check with your intended lab that they can accommodate this before going ahead.
The film lever on my F3 is very loose. in the "active" setting, like right after transporting the film, I can super easily move it 5mm horizontally and 3mm vertically and I am worried, that it will come off! Is this normal or is there a way to fix it? Thanks in advance and for this great video :)
A little bit of movement in the advance lever is normal. 5mm or 3mm is a pretty small amount of movement. If you are still worried about it then I would suggest finding a camera repair shop.
Recently I bought The Nikon F3 with AF Nikkor 50mm F1.8D , but when I checked the inbuilt light metre with my sekonic light metre (external metre) the Nikon F3 reads two stop under for example , The Nikon F3 reads 1/60'th & aperture F8 with ASA 200 AND my sekonic Light metre reads in that particular situation reads as 1/60'th & aperture F4 with ASA 200 so u can see the difference. Do u think it's good idea that I should always adjust my aperture with two stops based on my sekonic reading Because The Nikon F3 didn't work without Batteries & when I put batteries inside F3 it's reads wrong ? The Nikon F3 is a semi manual Focus camera. I have to put batteries inside or else it won't fire shutter.
You can always take some test shots where you carefully record all of your settings on both the F3 and your Sekonic light meter to see how they compare. When you get your photos back from developing it should be pretty obvious if they are over or under exposed and how much you need to compensated with the built in light meter.
I just bought one, I'm waiting for it to arrive. It is not the HP viewfinder, I like the regular viewfinder. It is practically new and with its box, serial number 199XXXXX, that is late model. I hope it works perfectly. I also bought the 28mm AI (not the AI-S version), which is cheaper than the AI-S and aesthetically I also like it better. Hopefully it is as clean as it looks in the photos and works well. Thank you.
Just received mine, can anyone confirm what batteries work? I bought the Energizer 357 which are supposed to be replacements for lr44 and other models, but my electronics don't work. Do you have to have a lens on to use the electronic shutter?
Watching this right after selling my FM10 to get this beautiful beast! I hope I’m making the right decision as I’m sort of excited to finally use the A mode again. I was unable to use that in the FM10 since it has no aperture mode in it. Btw, is the Nikkor 50mm 1.8d compatible with that? I hope it is! And the 50mm lens is the only lens compatible with the fm10 I used and the others were strictly for our d300 since they had no aperture rings. And Im asking also since the one I’m getting is a body only package... I’ll be selling my FM10 with its kit lens 35-70 f3.5, I’ll be buying a 35 soon if I have an extra money!
Yes, the 50mm f/1.8D is compatible with the F3. In fact all D series Nikon lenses should be compatible with this camera. The newer G series lenses will probably work on this camera but there is no way to change the aperture.
Prime Studios yup!! That’s what I thought, that’s why I’m looking for Nikon lenses with Aperture rings on it... what focal lengths would you recommend me on getting? I’m having a hard time looking for a 35mm here in my country so I think I will just opt on other lenses! I hope you can recommend me some hahah Btw, thank you so much for replying! I really appreciate it. Can’t wait to get the Nikon F3!
This may be more of a lens question but my aperture locks when the lens is mounted on the camera body. Any idea what this is? I know it's something basic but I haven't been able to figure it out. If I remember right, this is happening with my 50mm.
As far as I know using the Depth of Field preview button to get the right shutter speed is the only way to meter in this camera with a Non-AI lens as portrayed in the video.
One question. Is it possible to change film without ending it and then go back to it. for example, I want to use Ektar for landscape, but then I want to change to portra or maybe tri-x. so, I'm at exposure number 12 on my ektar, I wind the film just before the tip of it is in the canister. change to portra. do the same, and then go back to ektar so in order to continue with exposure number 13 I would place the canister as I would usually do and start clicking and winding with the lens cap on until I hit 13...... is it ok or this practice would ruin the film? thank you.
Yes, you can stop in the middle of a roll of film and switch it out for another kind of film. It can be kind of tedious but here is how you do it: Take note of what frame you are on, then rewind your film back until it is almost back into the canister but not all the way. You should be able to feel when it releases from the right hand spool, just make sure you don't rewind it back into the canister. Once you remove the film canister make sure to mark it with what ever number frame you were on. When you reload the film for later shooting, make sure to advance the film to that point with the lens cap on and at a fast shutter speed, and then go past where you stopped at least 1 or 2 pictures to make sure there is no over lap. Then you can finish the roll, although you would probably have lost space for 1 or 2 photos.
@@PrimeStudios Yes, allow a couple of extra 'blank' frames when you put the exposed film back in and be very cautious when you advance it through the camera. I'd go as far as to do it in a darkened room just to be on the safe side.
I just got this camera. I am thinking about buying a negative scanner to bring my images into photoshop. Is there one that you recommend? What is your workflow?
I currently use the Epson V600 Scanner which you can find here: amzn.to/2eYZqzv . It allows me to scan 35mm and medium format film. If I really care about an image I will save it as a TIF file and edit it in Adobe Lightroom, then save it as a jpg. Doing this I can get a large amount of dynamic range and color information to play with. I also don't scan at the highest resolution because the files come out huge and are difficult to manage.
A motor drive is an attachment that goes onto to bottom of the camera to wind the film using an electronic motor. It's really only needed if you are shooting rapid fire with film.
My dad got this camera in 1981 as a present from my grandfather. We were moving and found it a few weeks ago, and it still works perfectly. Watched your video to kind of get an idea of how it works so I can take pictures with my dad since we don't spend that much time together, so thanks so much for explaining
Thanks!
You’re welcome!
The Nikon F3 is the original Italian super model, a classic beauty that never ages.
just a note...if anyone is having issues with rapid battery drain do the following. it's very rare and they usually last for months or years but I've heard it's been an issue for some. simply take battery out and thoroughly clean battery and compartment with deionised water...even if it looks spotless and reapply battery holding just the sides or with gloves on. even a slight layer of oils can effect performance. as soon as I did this issue resolved and battery currently going strong after 6 months. apart from this the camera is a real tank and lovely to shoot with. enjoy everyone
this is the best visual manual for the F3
thank you
Glad you think so!
Had my F3 in a cupboard for 30 years, this was a great refresher course on the cameras functions - Thank you.
Just picked up an F3 today! Really appreciate this video, helping me to understand this beautiful camera.
You have no idea how much this video helped me omg. Thank you so much
Wow!!! The most thorough Nikon F3 guide!! Thank you very much 😊.
Thanks so much for doing this video! I have my F3 for years, but I got it second hand with no manual and I learned so much!
2020. This was released 40 years ago! And I just got mine today.
Samuel Hennessy congrats!! I got mine yesterday 😀
same! arrived just today :D but not hp version, but with Mf-14! ^^
I purchase mine two days ago, I am waiting for it to arrive home.
I see you Sam
Samuel Hennessy You will enjoy using it. Wonderful blend of form and function. Refined and simple.
This is a very informative video that I keep coming back to. So nice to have such a clear & thorough tutorial in a sea of half-baked Nikon F3 TH-cam videos. Much appreciated!
Very helpful video for people who may have picked up one of these excellent cameras and are not sure how to use it. I have 5 of them and also found it helpful. There are a number of H2 videos on TH-cam where people who do not really know what they are talking about attempt to explain these things, to a point. This video is the real deal, so just use this one!
used to shoot digital with a loaner camera from my school, but since graduating and not being able to afford a dslr + lenses, i dug out my dad's camera kit with the f3 and a telephoto. i've been using the manual shutter release until i get the chance to pick up the right batteries but it's done me well so far. i can't wait to go adventuring with this camera over the summer. thanks for such a useful intro vid for this camera :)
That's awesome! I'm happy to help!
thanks for this very informative video, can't wait to get my F3 tomorrow.
Well done
Learned some new things about my F3! Best camera tutorial; very thorough.
Have never used a camera before and was looking to start out with this one. Thank you was a lot of information to take in
you won't regret it! It's a camera you'll enjoy for many many years
Nice survey! Very clear audio... thank-you.
I had two F3-HP's back in the 80's, swapped them for the new F4 and was like going to heaven.
But still missed the HP, found one at a swap meet for $50.00.
Still have that F3.
amazing video! I just got my Nikon f3 and am super excited to use! I was a bit confused with the light meter, but now think I understand. Thank you so much!
This week I will receive my first nikon F3 and I it's in very very good condition. Almost unused and I will use it with a nikkor 50 mm f/1.4 nikon f mount I really am excited to start shooting photos.
Never owned a film SLR, but this video made me want to buy one. Great video! Thanks.
Wow, this was an amazing video and very imfomative I never knew such an old camera was packed with all that technology that we take for granted today. You are the best Prime Studios, I'll be watching all your videos FOR SURE!
GREAT tutorial. I’ve had any number of cameras for 25 years but this was my first Nikon. A few idiosyncrasies unique to Nikon. Thanks for the quick overview it helped me a lot.
Wow, what a great review. So much covered information, thanks.
Thank you so much for making this video. So helpful. I might've missed it but what does the switch at the base of the shutter dial do? It reveals a red dot, much like the on/off switch...
That's the 10 second timer: 8:20
Best simplest explanation of Ai vs. Npn-Ai Nikkor lenses!
Thanks alot!
Perfect video manual for the f3 in my opinion. Thanks for the awesome video!
Thanks so much for this video! my F3 is only my second film SLR and it's very unique so I'm glad I found this.
Thank you for the video I'm better acquainted with my F3HP now. I'm just wondering if removing the prism while the film is inside will ruin expose it. Also when I push on the film door when it's closed there's a little bit of looseness is this cause for concern?
No, removing the viewfinder will not expose the film. Also, it's normal for the film door to have a little give.
Thank you very much for this tutorial video.
This is a fantastic video. Thanks for making it!
Hi! Amazing video, thanks so much! I have a question... at 13:44, my light meter doesn't show + or - as I adjust the f... how can I fix this? Thanks so much!
Great video. Informative/easy to follow. Battery question: Lithium 3v vs 2 1.5 silver oxides. Any performance diff? Got a favorite? Thanks.
Far as I know the Lithium chemistry should perform better and last longer.
I just ordered mine. Could you share the specific lens used in the video along with your favorite for this camera and why? Great video!
The lens you see in the video is the Nikon 28mm f/2.8 AI which you can find here: amzn.to/2VH9LXv
My favorite lens is probably the Nikon 50mm f/1.4D which you can find here: amzn.to/38mZYLg
It's my favorite because it's fast, sharp, and lightweight, plus it gives the same focal length as the human eye.
An excellent tutorial/overview, just 1 slight nagging reservation, you used a black background with a fully black nikon camera, you should have used a pinch of diffused light onto the individual parts that you where describing, as it was a bit difficult to establish each respective item in dialogue.otherwise EGGcellent 🌚
Clear and very informative. Just bought this epic camera. Now I know what all those extra controls are. Thanx.
Actually you can use a standard flash on them,you just need to purchase an AS-4 flash unit coupler...it slips over the the rewind knob and lets you use more modern flash units on it.
Smart idea! Seems those are easier to get!
The condition of your F3 is absolutely pristine !
Thank you very much for the explanations. I wear glasses and I am struggling to see inside the HP viewfinder. Any ideas or comments how to correct this, if at all possible?
There are special eye pieces you can add to the view finder called diopters of different strengths to help correct for your vision. Once past 40 years old most humans inner lens of the eye becomes far less flexible and it becomes difficult, if not impossible to focus on things at close distances. The cheap answer might be using "cheaters" or magnifying glasses, or you could just do what I did and get laser eye surgery....Just google "Nikon F3 Diopters" and click the shopping tab, that should get you started.
Thank's a lot. In fact, I just removed my diopter and I am now fine.
This is my second time viewing this video. You’re a really good teacher, clear and concise in your explanations.
Having used the camera several times recently, I’m having difficulty in focusing. It’s hard to see the split image in the centre, especially when trying to focus horizontal lines. Is there anything I can do to improve this?
Not much. If I'm having a lot of trouble with a split focus I will resort to either focusing on another object that's at the same distance, but has higher contrast and is easier to see and then reframe, or I'll try to use the distance measurements and guess. Lastly I might try just using a flashlight or something similar to illuminate the subject better for focusing.
@@PrimeStudios Very good suggestions. Thank you.
Love this and love my F3. I'm still getting used to having to manual focus all my shots though. Do you know if different focusing screens can help with this? Thanks a lot
Yes they can be changed and it's quite easy! The hard part is finding the one you want for sale online. Here is a page describing the different kinds of screens you can get: bit.ly/2VTgsUX
Just got an F3 and a couple of great prime lenses! After watching your video, I think the little red button that turns on my LCD display might be jammed. Is this a common issue? Also, my prism is completely different. I have a cross-hair when I look through the viewfinder and no split-circle. If I replace the prism, would I be able to find one with this functionality? If so, what is it called? Thanks for this awesome walkthrough!
I hate that little red button to illuminate the display. I fell it is of very poor design. Also, the Nikon F3 was designed to have its viewfinder/prism replaced or supplemented very easily, so having a different viewfinder than the one I have in the video is common. You should be able to find different Nikon F3 prism viewfinders with a simple google search.
Often folks thing the red button is not working. You need to touch the shutter button to activate the light meter. Then when you press the red button the light works.
the f3 is beautiful!
what a beautiful camera!
would love to own one!
Wonderful explains. Thanks for your sharing.
This video got me out and shooting today; so helpful!! Thank you!!
great video! needed a bit of a refresher on the camera and learned a whole lot more. Quick question, on AF lenses like the 24-70, how does the camera handle no iris on the lens?
I think you mean a more modern lens with the Nikon mount...as far as I can recall this camera will not engage auto focus on any lens. Also, without a ring to control the aperture, it will stay at the same f/stop for every photo. Likley the smallest f/stop available for that lens.
@@PrimeStudios thanks for your time!
This was extremely helpful, thank you! I recently purchased a Nikon F3HP and the LCD portion of the viewfinder is incredibly dull, the illumination button doesn't help very much either. Is there anything I can do to perhaps make this better? I took off the prism finder and there wasn't a spec of dust inside either.
I'm afraid I don't know of any way to make the LCD more visible except to maybe shoot in brighter situations. That LCD is one of the things I strongly dislike on the F3.
Nikon originally thought the LCD would need replacing every seven years. It sounds as if yours is at the end of its life.
...or the mirror in the fiewfinder is not on it's place, maybe bent. Mine was bent...I opened the fiewfinders cover and could see the mirrors. Than I put the finder on the camera and could fix it while looking through the finder itself. It was very easy! After that I replaced the cover and that's all - like new.
But to be honest- there are some LCD-screens out of function while the cam was wrongly stored (too hot or too much moisture), than the flex-electronic-platine will lost the connection. Unfortunately there are no more repair parts at Nikon... There is no chance to fix it because it is too extreme tiny... best regards from Bonn, Germany
Thanks so much for this video! It was truly helpful.
nice comprehensive review, thanks for posting
Thanks for watching!
Great Review. My Nikon f3 reads two stops over as compared with the external light metre.I don't know how to fix it . Do u think all the Nikon f3 is like that? Any suggestions would be very helpful.
I would double check the exposure compensation on your camera. If that checks out it's likely your camera needs maintenance.
Hi, great video. I have two question , first what is the difference between F3 HP and standard F3 model? Second question if I use old Nikon non-AI lens can I use light meter with "M + -" signs to take photo with proper exposure?
Timestamp 19:10 shows how to meter using Non-AI lenses. The F3 HP has a different viewfinder (DE-3) for people with glasses to be able to see the entire frame even though their eyes are a little further away from the viewfinder. You lose a little magnification as a tradeoff.
@@PrimeStudios ok thanks. And one more question. If I will buy iso 400 film can I use iso 100 on camera or just iso 400? Can I use iso more than iso 400 for example iso 800 ? Can you explain that ?
Setting the camera's ISO setting to your film's ISO will ensure the light meter reads correctly. You can set your camera to a different ISO than your film, either lower or higher. This will have the effect of either under or over exposing your film, which you can compensate for by over or under developing. This is called pushing or pulling the film.
@@PrimeStudios Great thanks
@@KK-ze8ye But if you intend to do this and are not processing the film yourself, check with your intended lab that they can accommodate this before going ahead.
Thank you so much for posting this video!! It was really clear, easy to understand and helpful :)
The film lever on my F3 is very loose. in the "active" setting, like right after transporting the film, I can super easily move it 5mm horizontally and 3mm vertically and I am worried, that it will come off! Is this normal or is there a way to fix it?
Thanks in advance and for this great video :)
A little bit of movement in the advance lever is normal. 5mm or 3mm is a pretty small amount of movement. If you are still worried about it then I would suggest finding a camera repair shop.
@@PrimeStudios Thank you for your reply :) I will go to a shop and ask them to have a look. I hope it's not too expensive.
Great video, and a very clean camera you got there. Thanks for the info
Recently I bought The Nikon F3 with AF Nikkor 50mm F1.8D , but when I checked the inbuilt light metre with my sekonic light metre (external metre) the Nikon F3 reads two stop under for example , The Nikon F3 reads 1/60'th & aperture F8 with ASA 200 AND my sekonic Light metre reads in that particular situation reads as 1/60'th & aperture F4 with ASA 200 so u can see the difference.
Do u think it's good idea that I should always adjust my aperture with two stops based on my sekonic reading Because The Nikon F3 didn't work without Batteries & when I put batteries inside F3 it's reads wrong ? The Nikon F3 is a semi manual Focus camera.
I have to put batteries inside or else it won't fire shutter.
You can always take some test shots where you carefully record all of your settings on both the F3 and your Sekonic light meter to see how they compare. When you get your photos back from developing it should be pretty obvious if they are over or under exposed and how much you need to compensated with the built in light meter.
Make sure there's no exposure compensation inadvertently dialled in to the camera.
I just bought one, I'm waiting for it to arrive. It is not the HP viewfinder, I like the regular viewfinder. It is practically new and with its box, serial number 199XXXXX, that is late model. I hope it works perfectly. I also bought the 28mm AI (not the AI-S version), which is cheaper than the AI-S and aesthetically I also like it better. Hopefully it is as clean as it looks in the photos and works well. Thank you.
Fantastic video tutorial thank you! 👏
Hello, you've got a very beautiful camera, beautiful and clean. best regard
Excellent video. Thanks
Excellent explanation 🤩
Excellente présentation. Mon beau Nikon F3 juste acheté n'a plus de secret pour moi. Merci.
Just received mine, can anyone confirm what batteries work? I bought the Energizer 357 which are supposed to be replacements for lr44 and other models, but my electronics don't work. Do you have to have a lens on to use the electronic shutter?
No, you do not need to have a lens on the camera for the shutter to operate. I do not know about the batteries.
That looks like pristine fresh brand new new!
Great video. Simple and clear explanation of the Nikon F3 workings. Thanks. Did anyone ever tell you, your voice sounds similar to Sam Harris's?
No one has compared my voice to his, but thank you for the compliments!
Dennis Swiatkowski you’re right about his voice; I thought his voice sounded familiar.
Watching this right after selling my FM10 to get this beautiful beast! I hope I’m making the right decision as I’m sort of excited to finally use the A mode again. I was unable to use that in the FM10 since it has no aperture mode in it.
Btw, is the Nikkor 50mm 1.8d compatible with that? I hope it is! And the 50mm lens is the only lens compatible with the fm10 I used and the others were strictly for our d300 since they had no aperture rings. And Im asking also since the one I’m getting is a body only package... I’ll be selling my FM10 with its kit lens 35-70 f3.5, I’ll be buying a 35 soon if I have an extra money!
Yes, the 50mm f/1.8D is compatible with the F3. In fact all D series Nikon lenses should be compatible with this camera. The newer G series lenses will probably work on this camera but there is no way to change the aperture.
Prime Studios yup!! That’s what I thought, that’s why I’m looking for Nikon lenses with Aperture rings on it... what focal lengths would you recommend me on getting? I’m having a hard time looking for a 35mm here in my country so I think I will just opt on other lenses! I hope you can recommend me some hahah
Btw, thank you so much for replying! I really appreciate it. Can’t wait to get the Nikon F3!
The 35mm and 85mm along with the 50mm are all good choices to start off with.
Is this repainted? How'd you get the matte finish?
Thanks a lot for this video. Its been soooo helpful..!!
Thanks for the information.
I just bought one for the first time on 17/03/2020. Saw the amateur photography in 1985 costing £700-800, was thinking owning one in my dream...
Thanks for making the film! Super helpful :)
thanks for this useful video
This video was so helpful! Thank you!
That was a really nice presentation, it will help me to push the "buy now" button on eBay :-). Thanks a lot
I love this video; so helpful!!! Thank you for this tutorial
Glad it was helpful!
This may be more of a lens question but my aperture locks when the lens is mounted on the camera body. Any idea what this is? I know it's something basic but I haven't been able to figure it out. If I remember right, this is happening with my 50mm.
My best guess is the depth of field preview button may be locked in place.
@@PrimeStudios I appreciate the comment. I had tried that and it doesn't seem to be the answer. So strange. Thanks anyhow!
very handy video which will come back to many times for reference .
Great review, great camera. Thank you.
Having trouble locating the battery. Please help. The links you referred to do not work.
thank you dude, this video help me a lot
Great job, saved me reading the manual.
amazing details. good job
Thanks so much for the video - really helpful!
Can i use external light metre while shooting with this camera in manual mode?
Yep!
can this be shot at waist level with the prism removed ??
Yep! ebay.to/2Vsa5Kj
To use non ai lenses does it have to be in aperture priority and it will give you the correct exposure?
As far as I know using the Depth of Field preview button to get the right shutter speed is the only way to meter in this camera with a Non-AI lens as portrayed in the video.
Prime Studios thanks 🙏🏽
Great explanation!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Does the light meter not work with a 16 AF Nikkor Fisheye 2.8?
The light meter should work with this lens.
Great explanation
One question. Is it possible to change film without ending it and then go back to it. for example, I want to use Ektar for landscape, but then I want to change to portra or maybe tri-x. so, I'm at exposure number 12 on my ektar, I wind the film just before the tip of it is in the canister. change to portra. do the same, and then go back to ektar so in order to continue with exposure number 13 I would place the canister as I would usually do and start clicking and winding with the lens cap on until I hit 13...... is it ok or this practice would ruin the film?
thank you.
Yes, you can stop in the middle of a roll of film and switch it out for another kind of film. It can be kind of tedious but here is how you do it: Take note of what frame you are on, then rewind your film back until it is almost back into the canister but not all the way. You should be able to feel when it releases from the right hand spool, just make sure you don't rewind it back into the canister. Once you remove the film canister make sure to mark it with what ever number frame you were on. When you reload the film for later shooting, make sure to advance the film to that point with the lens cap on and at a fast shutter speed, and then go past where you stopped at least 1 or 2 pictures to make sure there is no over lap. Then you can finish the roll, although you would probably have lost space for 1 or 2 photos.
Easy..just have another camera with different film :-)
@@PrimeStudios Yes, allow a couple of extra 'blank' frames when you put the exposed film back in and be very cautious when you advance it through the camera. I'd go as far as to do it in a darkened room just to be on the safe side.
I just got this camera. I am thinking about buying a negative scanner to bring my images into photoshop. Is there one that you recommend? What is your workflow?
I currently use the Epson V600 Scanner which you can find here: amzn.to/2eYZqzv . It allows me to scan 35mm and medium format film. If I really care about an image I will save it as a TIF file and edit it in Adobe Lightroom, then save it as a jpg. Doing this I can get a large amount of dynamic range and color information to play with. I also don't scan at the highest resolution because the files come out huge and are difficult to manage.
Thank you John .That was a great help.
You're very welcome. I'm glad I could help!
Cool camera 👍
what a good clear clip! thank you!
You are welcome!
Very useful review. Thank you
You might consider a white background, next time you review an all black camera. Apart from that splendid video. Can't wait to get my f3!
What's a motordrive I'm new to film camera I just bought the Nikon camera from eBay ?
A motor drive is an attachment that goes onto to bottom of the camera to wind the film using an electronic motor. It's really only needed if you are shooting rapid fire with film.
Great video, thank you! 👍
Great review, thanks!!