I bought this front hub but I am only learning now about the dangers of installing front hub motors on aluminum forks. Torque arms (at minimum) are a must on aluminum forks and steel forks should really be used.
Thanks, Have you had any front fork dropouts break? wI've broken three dropouts, two in an aluminum suspension similar to what is shown here and one downhill magnesium fork using a 1000w direct (non-geared) motor using two torque arms. I've noticed that the inexpensive stamped arms typically have about 0.012" of play on the hubmotor shaft and a lot of play in the torque-arm to shaft arm bolt hole, and when combined with the flex of even a heavy duty hose clamp, even if the torque arm slots are positioned tight to counter the motor shaft torque it still allows enough twist to over-stress the dropouts. I've tapped the tru-hole and used a larger machine screw on the third attempt but that apparently was not enough. Luckily all three of my failures were starting from a stop using about 400watts (8amps at 48V). the high-end magnesium fork lasted about 100mi and broke under light starting load, and all three fractures appear to involve some element of fatigue. I modeled cast alloy dropouts and motor shafts in Solidworks, and found that the cast aluminum and magnesium dropouts were at 60% of static structural damage with only 30n/m of torque, but about 20% with solid 6061 aluminum. From those basic numbers I have to question the safety margin on any front fork motor install even with torque arms and wanted to convey my concerns for whatever they are worth and see if you might have any better insights? Thanks.
That's terrible, I've considering this option but have heard these same results from various sources. Not worth the risk when some of these forks can be so expensive.
@@Americadoe Not to mention the cost of injury or disability. I've designed a front and rear mount torque arm I'm going to have laser cut that should greatly reduce or eliminate the risk of breaking a dropout and contain the hub motor if they do break
One thing I've thought of is just tack welding the torque arms onto the axle and using 2 clamps on the strut for the torque arm to weld to. Clamps would be removable so the wheel can be removed the but the motor would not be servicable
Yep, I received one of these kits and broke my fork dropouts after about 4 minutes of use. The Bafang front motor kit comes with the torque arm but the instructions don't show that it needs to be installed. Needless to say, you never fell so alive as when you're close to death, flying over the handlebars. I ordered two torque arms and a rigid cro-mo fork for my next attempt.
I have begun the installation of this kit and now have a question. Must I install the PAS sensor in order for the Hub Motor to work? In other words can I do away with the PAS Sensor and it's related hardware?
Yes, I have that motor and just broke my front fork and fell face first on the asphalt because I had no torque arm. The torque of the motor simply split the front fork dropouts when going full throttle
be nice if the video listed the tools you'll need that are not included in the kit, like a crank puller, an 8mm allen, and a 1/2 ratchet (depending on crank puller size). oh, and a battery.
you obviously won't replace your brake levers if they also change your gears, you must use a magnetic add-on that is glued/zip tied to your original levers.
18A controller is for 350W rated motor. It's smaller than a pack of cigarettes. Small yellow people love those. And then they label the system as 750W. I ordered a new controller before I even got the ebike.
@@connicrow9463 KT controller 40A + colour display 110$. And then I bought front motor and 2x25Ah batteries for 600$.Everything from AliExpress. Everything working just fine. And I can pull 300kg loaded trailer.
How do you use the sensors already on the bike if it already has a rear motor? I have a ancheer ebike, it has the sensors on the brake handles and pas sensors, can I just wire into those sensors to avoid this hassle?
Without an electronic signal telling the motor you're braking, the motor will continue to spin while you're applying the coaster brakes. A solution is to add 1 brake lever with sensor that won't manually brake, but it will tell the hub motor to brake.
I bought this front hub but I am only learning now about the dangers of installing front hub motors on aluminum forks. Torque arms (at minimum) are a must on aluminum forks and steel forks should really be used.
Thanks, Have you had any front fork dropouts break? wI've broken three dropouts, two in an aluminum suspension similar to what is shown here and one downhill magnesium fork using a 1000w direct (non-geared) motor using two torque arms. I've noticed that the inexpensive stamped arms typically have about 0.012" of play on the hubmotor shaft and a lot of play in the torque-arm to shaft arm bolt hole, and when combined with the flex of even a heavy duty hose clamp, even if the torque arm slots are positioned tight to counter the motor shaft torque it still allows enough twist to over-stress the dropouts. I've tapped the tru-hole and used a larger machine screw on the third attempt but that apparently was not enough.
Luckily all three of my failures were starting from a stop using about 400watts (8amps at 48V). the high-end magnesium fork lasted about 100mi and broke under light starting load, and all three fractures appear to involve some element of fatigue.
I modeled cast alloy dropouts and motor shafts in Solidworks, and found that the cast aluminum and magnesium dropouts were at 60% of static structural damage with only 30n/m of torque, but about 20% with solid 6061 aluminum. From those basic numbers I have to question the safety margin on any front fork motor install even with torque arms and wanted to convey my concerns for whatever they are worth and see if you might have any better insights?
Thanks.
That's terrible, I've considering this option but have heard these same results from various sources. Not worth the risk when some of these forks can be so expensive.
@@Americadoe Not to mention the cost of injury or disability. I've designed a front and rear mount torque arm I'm going to have laser cut that should greatly reduce or eliminate the risk of breaking a dropout and contain the hub motor if they do break
@@jackoneil3933 that would be awesome.
One thing I've thought of is just tack welding the torque arms onto the axle and using 2 clamps on the strut for the torque arm to weld to. Clamps would be removable so the wheel can be removed the but the motor would not be servicable
Yep, I received one of these kits and broke my fork dropouts after about 4 minutes of use. The Bafang front motor kit comes with the torque arm but the instructions don't show that it needs to be installed. Needless to say, you never fell so alive as when you're close to death, flying over the handlebars. I ordered two torque arms and a rigid cro-mo fork for my next attempt.
What happened to the gear selector?
7:26 The mounting that came with my Bafang Front Hub Motor Kit is completely different than what's in this video.
I have begun the installation of this kit and now have a question. Must I install the PAS sensor in order for the Hub Motor to work? In other words can I do away with the PAS Sensor and it's related hardware?
I think you should really have a torque arm😬😬😬🤔
Yes, I have that motor and just broke my front fork and fell face first on the asphalt because I had no torque arm. The torque of the motor simply split the front fork dropouts when going full throttle
@anton aluminum frame?
be nice if the video listed the tools you'll need that are not included in the kit, like a crank puller, an 8mm allen, and a 1/2 ratchet (depending on crank puller size). oh, and a battery.
My thoughts exactly, James. Aside from that, great video.
Just one question, after removing gear selectors how can the gears be changed as the replacement break leavers are for breaking only? Thanks
you obviously won't replace your brake levers if they also change your gears, you must use a magnetic add-on that is glued/zip tied to your original levers.
Ooooh i missed that
Thanks you i do that after work
18A controller is for 350W rated motor. It's smaller than a pack of cigarettes. Small yellow people love those. And then they label the system as 750W. I ordered a new controller before I even got the ebike.
This is true. What bigger controller did you get , and where, and how much $ was it?
@@connicrow9463 KT controller 40A + colour display 110$. And then I bought front motor and 2x25Ah batteries for 600$.Everything from AliExpress. Everything working just fine. And I can pull 300kg loaded trailer.
No replies to questions, kind of a jerk move.
How do you use the sensors already on the bike if it already has a rear motor? I have a ancheer ebike, it has the sensors on the brake handles and pas sensors, can I just wire into those sensors to avoid this hassle?
Hii mate please tell me where can i get the axle tab lock washer?
Nice video thanks
Hey guys installing this on a beach cruiser. So coaster brakes. Will this operate without the hand brake sensors connected?
Without an electronic signal telling the motor you're braking, the motor will continue to spin while you're applying the coaster brakes. A solution is to add 1 brake lever with sensor that won't manually brake, but it will tell the hub motor to brake.
Just one question: which of the two PAS sensors will work with with a hollowtech bb/crankset?
where does one obtain the lock washer, beveled washer, thick and thin washer and locknut separately? are these 12mm?
Where on line do I buy this Kit?
Do I need to remove rear brakes as well of just the front?
You forgot the torque arms
Super blog.
How to order and how much
Is a torque arm recommended for this install?
if your bike is aluminum absolutely if it's steel then it's optional in my opinion.
Good instructional vid, but the music is pointless and absolutely terrible. Makes me feel seasick. ☹️
Don't like the wiring. Like the idea front wheel drive
Front ground noise is OBNOXIOUS!! NO NEED.
hahaha rondelle au mauvaise endroit cable deja manger c est quoi ce bricoleur des dimanches feriés
horrible music...............
man the cable horror...the amount of cable salad looks awful
shittttty v