I'm considering raising 4 rabbits on a fenced in area of my garage with a concrete floor. It gets pretty hot here and I think it may help with keeping them cool in the summer. I used a deep litter method with my 4 chickens and there was no odor at all. Your point on parasites is valid. I know mice get into my garage. I know cages are much better for production, and keeping track of everything.
Makes sense that it could help with cooling. I use deep litter for my chickens, too, and yes, it works really well with them (and they're the smelliest of anything, so...). Parasites would be my concern, though on concrete and if exposure to other animals is limited you should be okay there, but I would make an effort to control rodents because they will go after kits and can make does with kits very nervous and reactionary.
I have a bunch of rabbits in cages right now, I agree with most of what you've said, especially in regards to it being easier to keep records and handle them if needed(like when breeding or if there was a medical issue). Easier to breed specific bucks to does if you have a breeding program. The one problem i'm personally running into is I feel like having rabbits this size in a cage this size is not great for the rabbit. They have poor ability to move around, can't experience even a short run besides the circles they do. I do feel like my rabbits while physically quite healthy are mentally frustrated by the lack of space and also would benefit from socialization. There has been a couple of times a rabbit or two have escaped from my cages and went into the forest, they seemed quite happy to be able to roam around, if it wasn't for the lack of food they would have never come back. They definitely would prefer to not be in such a confined space. So i'm not sure what to do. I'm considering making runs from each cage out to abit of fenced off areas for each cage. Part of the reason im raising my own meat is I don't want to eat meat from factory farms, my chickens and ducks free range, my goats have alot of room and will soon have pasture, but for the rabbits while my cages are bigger then what you would find in a factory farm its not by alot.
My grandma made them an enclosure of about 6 sq. ft., maybe a bit bigger (we use meters, so it's exactly 2 square meters) and it's basically a regular room, I mean the height of the roof is that of a regular house. She can no longer care for them so I'm the one doing it, and what I did was let the females on the big enclosure, they have plenty of space, that's where they also nurse their babies, when the babies hit 3 or 4 months, that's when I separate the males from the females. Females get to stay in the big enclosure while males are put in smaller cages, but still with enough space for them to lie down and still have space to have another rabbit lay next to it, the males don't have much space to run but they can stand on their hind legs without touching the roof of the (wooden) cage, and since I constantly touch them I don't see them getting stressed or anything, but males don't spend a lot of time in the cages, since by the time they're 5-8 months my grandma dispatches them for food (I still can't bring myself to do it, and think won't never manage to do it...). I think that 6-8 square feet should be enough to keep about 6 female rabbits, I haven't had trouble with them fighting or hurting each other's babies, actually 2 of our females have always had their babies together in the same spot, they're sisters so I guess that's got something to do with it 😂
I have to weigh the pros and cons, and the pros of healthy living and predator protection, as well as eliminating fighting and injury, outweigh the rest. Some people do choose to use a sort of run or give the rabbits time in a pen for movement. I focus more on providing large cages for long-term keepers. On the issue of socialization, I recently read a comment on a forum from someone who explained that rabbits aren't really social, they are hierarchical. They develop a pecking order and it's more domination and submission than friendship. That makes a lot of sense to me. Case in point, I had three sisters in a large growout cage from birth and they were fine until they weren't. As they got older, they started to establish dominance and one was clearly the more harassed of the three. This underlined for me once again that a large group of rabbits isn't really ideal and will result in injury and probably death. I have also had brothers in large grow out cages, two to a cage, and they start to urinate on each other as they get towards 3 months old. They didn't fight but they were clearly establishing dominance. This doesn't happen in separate cages.
Thank you. We have already pretty much decided that we're going to use the colony method, but i watched this video anyway because it came up, isn't too long and I always appreciate hearing the opposite perspective. I am still sold on colony vs cage, despite your many good points. One of the biggest reasons why we're choosing colony is because we know someone who does the cage method and her rabbits don't seem to be very healthy, plus they look like they're miserable, even though she feeds them well. She also hasn't had any successful litters that we're aware of - idk if it's moms killing the babies (like rats will do if they feel the environment isn't conducive to raising babies) or what, plus i know i couldn't imagine being trapped in a box for my entire life, even if it was for my health and safety. The one video I watched this morning had a brilliant colony setup! The fellow actually excavated about 3' down, lined the area with wire, then put the earth back in. The building was constructed above, and the perimeter of the wire then secured to the building so the rabbits can burrow but not escape, and burrowing predators (such as rats) can't get in. The bunnies are kept clean and dry with deep litter. I find this model exceptionally appealing. 100%, moisture/damp is detrimental to our animals. Caging them off the floor is definitely a great solution, but only works if the cages are kept in a well-ventilated area ;) Dust is also an issue, something that not many really take into consideration. You probably have the cleanest barn I've ever seen, lol, and your rabbits do look very happy and healthy, which is good to see :)
LOL Thanks! I try! The good air flow and ventilation helps a lot. As does the cleaning system with the drop pans. To be honest I like the idea of colonies for the natural aspects of it, but it requires super protection from predators and wild animals (because of disease--the spreading of RHVD is a real concern, among others like coccidiosis, etc.), and I just don't see it being as good in practice. But as you say, I respect others'decisions and I understand why people would choose it. Good luck to you!
I agree with you about safety in cages, I do give way larger cages then most recommend as I want mine to move a lot more and have choices of where to rest. 2'x4' cage 24-28"tall attached to a 4'x4' run behind the cage for each breeding doe. I have the extra space so I make it useful. I do like rabbits too have room to stand strait up as far as they can stretch.
How do you keep them from digging out? You dig fencing about 24" around the perimeter. How do you keep them from digging warrens? You provide ready made warrens (totes with PVC tunnels) that you have access to. When do you know youre going to have litter? You watch the behavior of your does and can tell when she is getting ready to kit. Idk if i missed any but🤷♂️ There are pros and cons to cage vs colony. Niether is right or wrong. Just right or wrong for the specific rabbitry. Cages are absolutely ethical. Properly cared for colonies are as well.
I have 2 bucks in large cages ( sizes for Great Pyrenees) outside tractors moved daily. Never wet. They love it. Other ones in large cages under carport protected by 2 Great Pyrenees Livestock Dogs. I don't stack mine but allow droppings onto ground and used in garden. I decided to start my own meat supply and my first litters are several weeks old. My tractors the bucks greet me daily. Having free range chickens parasites are kept at a minimum. I would like to get more extra large dog cages for all of my bucks and grow outs on tractors. I find them heartier, healthier and 😊 happier. I have had different rabbits 30+ years all types. Currently have Silver Fox I purchased this year.
I'll tell you one thing... HEAT kills rabbits and trying to keep all those cages cool is going to require an AC in MANY parts of the USA... Colony raising allows you to dig trenches that you cover with plywood and throw sod on to ensure they can keep cool in 100 degree summer days... works great in winter, too. Colony has some SERIOUS advantages.
No, I never use AC --or supplemental heat, for that matter. I make it a point to arrange living quarters and care and management so that I do not have to use extra electricity or inputs. It's one of the draws to rabbits. These rabbits are comfortable, with protection from the sun and with good ventilation. I've never lost one to heat even in temps over 90 and higher heat indexes. I have never had bucks go sterile, either. Breed selection goes a long way to the viability of animals relative to your climate, too.
My rabbits live in cages indoors but when I am doing cage cleans / tidy ups I put the bunny from that cage down on the floor and let them run around and visit friends etc. It is easy to recapture into a carry box with a carrot if they play hard to get when it is time to go back into the cage. Some girls that live next to each other can go down 2 or 3 at a time for a romp. I use empty cardboard boxes to make tunnels and caves they can play in and sturdier things they can jump up onto. Each bunny gets playtime on average once a week at least. I think of it as being like taking a dog to the dog park for off leash fun and socialisation. Some of them like to socialise and some just get the zoomies. I am in Australia so heat is more of a problem than cold. In summer I run a simple pedestal fan to keep air circulating. The biggest risk to my rabbits is mosquito born disease as myxomatosis and calici virus have been introduced into the wild population to control the numbers. Rabbits are not native and used to be a huge problem decimating both farms and natural environments. I vaccinate for calici virus but there is no vaccine available for myxo so keeping the mossies under control is a huge priority.
There are pros and cons to both methods. For someone only producing meat for their own family, it can absolutely work to rather have a colony. Some advantage are less work, less start up costs, and hardier rabbits. But you might be able to produce less meat this way, and you have less control over the breeding, unless you keep the male in a separate cage where the females gets to visit when its time.
These cages have drop trays that slide out. I clean once a week (sometimes twice in summer when flies are an issue). I scrape or spray the trays after emptying (this time of year I scrape with a joint compound knife because the hoses freeze). I put shavings in the drop trays before I slide them back in. The shavings absorb odors and urine, making it easy to dump. This also helps keep flies and urine smells down. Rabbit waste is "cold", so it can go right on the garden. I spread it onto my elderberry bushes and garden right after I clean out (even in winter). Makes a great fertilizer and mulch. You could, of course, compost it, too. Many people bag it and sell it!
These cages have optional frames that are made to stack together. (They are Dumor brand but there are different cages that have a similar system). There are metal supports that screw into brackets on the cage sides, and flat rails that screw in below the cage for the drop pan to slide into to collect the waste. The there is a four inch adapter pin that lets you stack the frames together on top of each other. I know people who have also made their own DIY a frames with PVC pipe or wood.
I love this video. Its also very hard logistically to have that many rabbits in outside areas. I have a mound on my property i was thinking to dedicate to rabbits but the fencing would be horrible. In Norway there are laws to keep the cages at messurements 120x90x90 for them to move around alot. I do like the stacking cages so i think i will go for those also :) Thanks for the ideas, tips and tricks.
Wanting the animal to at least have decent life before you take it is not stupid, but kind. Then again this proves that you have none. Congratulations! You’re a heartless MONSTER!
meh... depends on your goals. You want to maximize profits, yes, cages. You want to have a colony of happy rabbits in your life, occasionally selling as pets or harvesting for personal consumption? Then colony method is not dumb. Unless you show, who cares who the father is? Who cares when they were born? Mom will raise them or murk them, depending on how SHE feels. Many colony rabbits would NEVER see a vet or get treatment.. they get ATE.
I have never tried to hang Dumor cages. To be honest, I would be skeptical. If I were doing hanging cages I don't think they'd be my choice. I would say they would definitely need reinforcement to even consider it. Then again, I always reinforce them with extra cage clips anyway. They last well for me with a little reinforcement.
@MeatRabbitsOrg I'm in the middle of watching your rabbirty tour video right now lol. I actually realized there isn't an area to hang cages in our carport. I bought a few dumore cages and will be buying the stacking hardware to stack them. I see you stack 2 and 3 cages high. They do okay at 3 cages high? What sizes are you using?
@@SnowFoxPaperie Yes, they do okay at three cages high. They can get a little wiggly when they are that high, but I figure it can't be any worse than hanging cages. I have never had any problems like tipping or coming apart. When possible, I do like to but the stacks up next each other. They stay very stable that way. But my buck cages are not butted up to anyone, because I don't want issues like marking, spraying, and breeding through wire. Their cages are 30x30 and they do fine. They are the set that "move" the most, but not enough to be a problem. I have three sizes of cages: 36x30 for breeding does 30x30 for bucks 24x24 for grow outs
Saying a dog can not get to those rabbits in the cages is most likely a lie. My dad raised rabbits and he told me, when I asked him once why he shot the strays that showed up, that a dog killed all the rabbits he had at the time. Most likely those cages will stop dogs up to a particular size and intelligence, beyond those limits those cages will only slow the dog down.
I never caught him in a lie, he had other traits that I did not care for but lying was not one of them that I ever saw evidence of. I was much more aware than anyone else as a kid than anyone else I am aware of.
What about caged colonies? Can you get extra-long cages, and keep several together, separated by sex? Then, they can socialize as is natural, but still be protected and accessible, with reproduction controlled.
To an extent, yes. Rabbits are not truly social, though. In the wild, after the kits get old enough they disperse and make their own homes and meet up for mating. But if you think about it, you don't see wild rabbits playing out in the yard. If the cages are large enough, you can keep more than one grow out per cage. I do have some 5 foot cages where I will transition litters and if you're harvesting at a young enough age, it will work. However, even with litter mates and bonded pairs, you'll find that there will be fighting or dominating that happens in the range of 14 to 16 weeks. I had three sisters together once and they seemed fine but when I was checking them one day, one of them had a lot of scabs on her back. As they mature sexually, you'll see some dominance and one day, they may just turn on each other. Personally, this is not something I would do with adults. Too risky. I also find that growth rates are better when they are only one per or two per cage but even when small, two together can result in odd behaviors like peeing in water and pooping in food and then they stop drinking and eating as much. That said, a lot of raisers will keep litters together or separated by sex until harvest time. But those people are probably harvesting at 10 or 12 weeks, where I like to harvest at 16.
@@nateb4485 colonies work for some people but there are so many problems that come with em. Such as it’s really hard to track pedigrees, there’s a higher mortality rate in litters, it’s harder to tell if your rabbits are sick or not cause you can’t really monitor them well, they get injured more often, they can fight with other rabbits, they can more easily catch diseases from wild rabbits, they could dig out, it’s way harder tame the babies cause they’ll be pretty much wild etc.
@@bunnybuttbounceyou don’t know everything about rabbits obviously, your only listening to Lennon the bunny and only her, like everything’s “abuse” if i don’t do it Lennon the bunny’s stupid frocking way, I’m tired you trolls who say that rabbits should “roam the house” only.
You missed many reasons why colony raising rabbits is not a good way to raise meat rabbits. The main one is,...., it NEVER works. If you have a colony system you will have zero babies, period. It does not work. Rabbits are the dumbest animal, and domesticated rabbits have had what few intelligence they had bred out of them. So they will give birth on the ground and not raise their babies, or they will eat them, or they will fight , or,..., and the list keeps going on. Colony rabbit set up is fantastic for keeping a few adults as entertainment. This is it. If you want to actually have babies, then, sadly, the only way is cages. Nothing else works.
I am raising rabbits in colony. I have a local breed of rabbit that never been in cages. They choose a good spot and build their nest and give birth their. And babies survive. If you want to succeed in colony you should raise rabbit on ground in an early age so they used to it. Keep one dominant male only. Separate adults from little ones if you can
Here's the thing. If they're not bonded, they'll fight. Even littermates will fight eventually. Rabbits aren't truly social; what people think of as social is more about dominance and rabbits will get along...until they don't. My barn and cages are a management style that keeps animals as healthy as possible, focusing on production. Exposure to other animals and ground where I know I have wild rabbits running around is a biosecurity issue, too. Much easier to cacti and control a health issue this way while it is is its infancy. Actually, much better prevention. I have nothing more serious here than a case of ear mites two years ago. Others may consider that an option, though, and that's fine for them.
I'm considering raising 4 rabbits on a fenced in area of my garage with a concrete floor. It gets pretty hot here and I think it may help with keeping them cool in the summer. I used a deep litter method with my 4 chickens and there was no odor at all.
Your point on parasites is valid. I know mice get into my garage.
I know cages are much better for production, and keeping track of everything.
Makes sense that it could help with cooling. I use deep litter for my chickens, too, and yes, it works really well with them (and they're the smelliest of anything, so...).
Parasites would be my concern, though on concrete and if exposure to other animals is limited you should be okay there, but I would make an effort to control rodents because they will go after kits and can make does with kits very nervous and reactionary.
I have a bunch of rabbits in cages right now, I agree with most of what you've said, especially in regards to it being easier to keep records and handle them if needed(like when breeding or if there was a medical issue). Easier to breed specific bucks to does if you have a breeding program. The one problem i'm personally running into is I feel like having rabbits this size in a cage this size is not great for the rabbit. They have poor ability to move around, can't experience even a short run besides the circles they do. I do feel like my rabbits while physically quite healthy are mentally frustrated by the lack of space and also would benefit from socialization.
There has been a couple of times a rabbit or two have escaped from my cages and went into the forest, they seemed quite happy to be able to roam around, if it wasn't for the lack of food they would have never come back. They definitely would prefer to not be in such a confined space. So i'm not sure what to do. I'm considering making runs from each cage out to abit of fenced off areas for each cage. Part of the reason im raising my own meat is I don't want to eat meat from factory farms, my chickens and ducks free range, my goats have alot of room and will soon have pasture, but for the rabbits while my cages are bigger then what you would find in a factory farm its not by alot.
My grandma made them an enclosure of about 6 sq. ft., maybe a bit bigger (we use meters, so it's exactly 2 square meters) and it's basically a regular room, I mean the height of the roof is that of a regular house.
She can no longer care for them so I'm the one doing it, and what I did was let the females on the big enclosure, they have plenty of space, that's where they also nurse their babies, when the babies hit 3 or 4 months, that's when I separate the males from the females.
Females get to stay in the big enclosure while males are put in smaller cages, but still with enough space for them to lie down and still have space to have another rabbit lay next to it, the males don't have much space to run but they can stand on their hind legs without touching the roof of the (wooden) cage, and since I constantly touch them I don't see them getting stressed or anything, but males don't spend a lot of time in the cages, since by the time they're 5-8 months my grandma dispatches them for food (I still can't bring myself to do it, and think won't never manage to do it...).
I think that 6-8 square feet should be enough to keep about 6 female rabbits, I haven't had trouble with them fighting or hurting each other's babies, actually 2 of our females have always had their babies together in the same spot, they're sisters so I guess that's got something to do with it 😂
I have to weigh the pros and cons, and the pros of healthy living and predator protection, as well as eliminating fighting and injury, outweigh the rest. Some people do choose to use a sort of run or give the rabbits time in a pen for movement. I focus more on providing large cages for long-term keepers.
On the issue of socialization, I recently read a comment on a forum from someone who explained that rabbits aren't really social, they are hierarchical. They develop a pecking order and it's more domination and submission than friendship. That makes a lot of sense to me. Case in point, I had three sisters in a large growout cage from birth and they were fine until they weren't. As they got older, they started to establish dominance and one was clearly the more harassed of the three. This underlined for me once again that a large group of rabbits isn't really ideal and will result in injury and probably death. I have also had brothers in large grow out cages, two to a cage, and they start to urinate on each other as they get towards 3 months old. They didn't fight but they were clearly establishing dominance. This doesn't happen in separate cages.
@@MeatRabbitsOrg I would agree I think rabbits do enjoy their own space, they can relax and feel calm
Thank you. We have already pretty much decided that we're going to use the colony method, but i watched this video anyway because it came up, isn't too long and I always appreciate hearing the opposite perspective. I am still sold on colony vs cage, despite your many good points. One of the biggest reasons why we're choosing colony is because we know someone who does the cage method and her rabbits don't seem to be very healthy, plus they look like they're miserable, even though she feeds them well. She also hasn't had any successful litters that we're aware of - idk if it's moms killing the babies (like rats will do if they feel the environment isn't conducive to raising babies) or what, plus i know i couldn't imagine being trapped in a box for my entire life, even if it was for my health and safety.
The one video I watched this morning had a brilliant colony setup! The fellow actually excavated about 3' down, lined the area with wire, then put the earth back in. The building was constructed above, and the perimeter of the wire then secured to the building so the rabbits can burrow but not escape, and burrowing predators (such as rats) can't get in. The bunnies are kept clean and dry with deep litter. I find this model exceptionally appealing.
100%, moisture/damp is detrimental to our animals. Caging them off the floor is definitely a great solution, but only works if the cages are kept in a well-ventilated area ;) Dust is also an issue, something that not many really take into consideration. You probably have the cleanest barn I've ever seen, lol, and your rabbits do look very happy and healthy, which is good to see :)
LOL Thanks! I try! The good air flow and ventilation helps a lot. As does the cleaning system with the drop pans.
To be honest I like the idea of colonies for the natural aspects of it, but it requires super protection from predators and wild animals (because of disease--the spreading of RHVD is a real concern, among others like coccidiosis, etc.), and I just don't see it being as good in practice.
But as you say, I respect others'decisions and I understand why people would choose it. Good luck to you!
I agree with you about safety in cages, I do give way larger cages then most recommend as I want mine to move a lot more and have choices of where to rest. 2'x4' cage 24-28"tall attached to a 4'x4' run behind the cage for each breeding doe. I have the extra space so I make it useful. I do like rabbits too have room to stand strait up as far as they can stretch.
How do you keep them from digging out? You dig fencing about 24" around the perimeter. How do you keep them from digging warrens? You provide ready made warrens (totes with PVC tunnels) that you have access to. When do you know youre going to have litter? You watch the behavior of your does and can tell when she is getting ready to kit.
Idk if i missed any but🤷♂️
There are pros and cons to cage vs colony. Niether is right or wrong. Just right or wrong for the specific rabbitry. Cages are absolutely ethical. Properly cared for colonies are as well.
I have 2 bucks in large cages ( sizes for Great Pyrenees) outside tractors moved daily. Never wet. They love it. Other ones in large cages under carport protected by 2 Great Pyrenees Livestock Dogs. I don't stack mine but allow droppings onto ground and used in garden. I decided to start my own meat supply and my first litters are several weeks old. My tractors the bucks greet me daily. Having free range chickens parasites are kept at a minimum. I would like to get more extra large dog cages for all of my bucks and grow outs on tractors. I find them heartier, healthier and 😊 happier. I have had different rabbits 30+ years all types. Currently have Silver Fox I purchased this year.
Cages and tractors can be a good happy medium.
I'll tell you one thing... HEAT kills rabbits and trying to keep all those cages cool is going to require an AC in MANY parts of the USA... Colony raising allows you to dig trenches that you cover with plywood and throw sod on to ensure they can keep cool in 100 degree summer days... works great in winter, too. Colony has some SERIOUS advantages.
No, I never use AC --or supplemental heat, for that matter. I make it a point to arrange living quarters and care and management so that I do not have to use extra electricity or inputs. It's one of the draws to rabbits. These rabbits are comfortable, with protection from the sun and with good ventilation. I've never lost one to heat even in temps over 90 and higher heat indexes. I have never had bucks go sterile, either. Breed selection goes a long way to the viability of animals relative to your climate, too.
My rabbits live in cages indoors but when I am doing cage cleans / tidy ups I put the bunny from that cage down on the floor and let them run around and visit friends etc. It is easy to recapture into a carry box with a carrot if they play hard to get when it is time to go back into the cage. Some girls that live next to each other can go down 2 or 3 at a time for a romp. I use empty cardboard boxes to make tunnels and caves they can play in and sturdier things they can jump up onto. Each bunny gets playtime on average once a week at least. I think of it as being like taking a dog to the dog park for off leash fun and socialisation.
Some of them like to socialise and some just get the zoomies.
I am in Australia so heat is more of a problem than cold. In summer I run a simple pedestal fan to keep air circulating. The biggest risk to my rabbits is mosquito born disease as myxomatosis and calici virus have been introduced into the wild population to control the numbers. Rabbits are not native and used to be a huge problem decimating both farms and natural environments. I vaccinate for calici virus but there is no vaccine available for myxo so keeping the mossies under control is a huge priority.
Thanks for sharing!
There are pros and cons to both methods. For someone only producing meat for their own family, it can absolutely work to rather have a colony. Some advantage are less work, less start up costs, and hardier rabbits. But you might be able to produce less meat this way, and you have less control over the breeding, unless you keep the male in a separate cage where the females gets to visit when its time.
No. Colony does not work. It just does not.
lol, countless rabbit owners would laugh at that... we have been raising rabbits in colonies for centuries now. @@roninkegawa1804
How do you manage the poop and urine?
These cages have drop trays that slide out. I clean once a week (sometimes twice in summer when flies are an issue). I scrape or spray the trays after emptying (this time of year I scrape with a joint compound knife because the hoses freeze). I put shavings in the drop trays before I slide them back in. The shavings absorb odors and urine, making it easy to dump. This also helps keep flies and urine smells down. Rabbit waste is "cold", so it can go right on the garden. I spread it onto my elderberry bushes and garden right after I clean out (even in winter). Makes a great fertilizer and mulch. You could, of course, compost it, too. Many people bag it and sell it!
I like your on the cheap hay racks. Very creative.
I came across the basic idea in an online forum, but they work great! They literally last for years. I do occasionally need to replace a zip tie ;)
@@MeatRabbitsOrg I paid attention on hay racks too. Very creative. I'm going to steal this idea. 😊
@@tar5933 So cheap and easy! Steal away!
How do you have your cages stacked?
These cages have optional frames that are made to stack together. (They are Dumor brand but there are different cages that have a similar system). There are metal supports that screw into brackets on the cage sides, and flat rails that screw in below the cage for the drop pan to slide into to collect the waste. The there is a four inch adapter pin that lets you stack the frames together on top of each other.
I know people who have also made their own DIY a frames with PVC pipe or wood.
Agreed
Well done! Thanks for your video, I’ve just subscribed.
Thank you!
Hi. How do you protect them from RHDV and diseases spread by insects?
Shush that doesn’t even exist
If it does it’s an extremely unlikely for your rabbit to catch that 😂😂
@@KermitAdventures What doesn't exist???
@@chickenlover657the disease
What size are your cages?
I have three different sizes. Breeding doe cages are 30x36; buck cages are 30x30; growout cages are 24x24.
@MeatRabbitsOrg I'm just getting started and that helps me a lot thanks
I love this video. Its also very hard logistically to have that many rabbits in outside areas. I have a mound on my property i was thinking to dedicate to rabbits but the fencing would be horrible. In Norway there are laws to keep the cages at messurements 120x90x90 for them to move around alot. I do like the stacking cages so i think i will go for those also :) Thanks for the ideas, tips and tricks.
Thanks for the constructive comment. I'm glad you found this useful!
Finally someone that knows something about what you are talking about most people on here is stupid when it comes to raising rabbits
Wanting the animal to at least have decent life before you take it is not stupid, but kind. Then again this proves that you have none. Congratulations! You’re a heartless MONSTER!
meh... depends on your goals. You want to maximize profits, yes, cages. You want to have a colony of happy rabbits in your life, occasionally selling as pets or harvesting for personal consumption? Then colony method is not dumb. Unless you show, who cares who the father is? Who cares when they were born? Mom will raise them or murk them, depending on how SHE feels. Many colony rabbits would NEVER see a vet or get treatment.. they get ATE.
I think colony is not the way to raise good rabbits all they are good for is sick and wormy rabbits
I keep mine 2 or 3 ft off the ground or they'll get bugs where I live, I have tried other ways- but that doesn't work.
Mine are in a barn with a wood floor and that's the only reason I can keep mine so low to the floor. If they were outside, absolutely.
Are the Dumor cages able to be hung up without bowing?
I have never tried to hang Dumor cages. To be honest, I would be skeptical. If I were doing hanging cages I don't think they'd be my choice. I would say they would definitely need reinforcement to even consider it. Then again, I always reinforce them with extra cage clips anyway. They last well for me with a little reinforcement.
@MeatRabbitsOrg I'm in the middle of watching your rabbirty tour video right now lol. I actually realized there isn't an area to hang cages in our carport. I bought a few dumore cages and will be buying the stacking hardware to stack them. I see you stack 2 and 3 cages high. They do okay at 3 cages high? What sizes are you using?
@@SnowFoxPaperie Yes, they do okay at three cages high. They can get a little wiggly when they are that high, but I figure it can't be any worse than hanging cages. I have never had any problems like tipping or coming apart. When possible, I do like to but the stacks up next each other. They stay very stable that way. But my buck cages are not butted up to anyone, because I don't want issues like marking, spraying, and breeding through wire. Their cages are 30x30 and they do fine. They are the set that "move" the most, but not enough to be a problem.
I have three sizes of cages:
36x30 for breeding does
30x30 for bucks
24x24 for grow outs
Saying a dog can not get to those rabbits in the cages is most likely a lie. My dad raised rabbits and he told me, when I asked him once why he shot the strays that showed up, that a dog killed all the rabbits he had at the time. Most likely those cages will stop dogs up to a particular size and intelligence, beyond those limits those cages will only slow the dog down.
I think your dad lied to you
Or he had awful cages.
I never caught him in a lie, he had other traits that I did not care for but lying was not one of them that I ever saw evidence of. I was much more aware than anyone else as a kid than anyone else I am aware of.
Very good video.
Thank you!
What about caged colonies? Can you get extra-long cages, and keep several together, separated by sex? Then, they can socialize as is natural, but still be protected and accessible, with reproduction controlled.
To an extent, yes. Rabbits are not truly social, though. In the wild, after the kits get old enough they disperse and make their own homes and meet up for mating. But if you think about it, you don't see wild rabbits playing out in the yard. If the cages are large enough, you can keep more than one grow out per cage. I do have some 5 foot cages where I will transition litters and if you're harvesting at a young enough age, it will work. However, even with litter mates and bonded pairs, you'll find that there will be fighting or dominating that happens in the range of 14 to 16 weeks. I had three sisters together once and they seemed fine but when I was checking them one day, one of them had a lot of scabs on her back. As they mature sexually, you'll see some dominance and one day, they may just turn on each other. Personally, this is not something I would do with adults. Too risky.
I also find that growth rates are better when they are only one per or two per cage but even when small, two together can result in odd behaviors like peeing in water and pooping in food and then they stop drinking and eating as much. That said, a lot of raisers will keep litters together or separated by sex until harvest time. But those people are probably harvesting at 10 or 12 weeks, where I like to harvest at 16.
A lot of head nodding and mmhmm’s while watching this lol. I agree entirely cages are very ethical for rabbits
Yeah, why would you want a rabbit free roaming anyway 🤢
i 100% agree with you
outside in a pen... being a rabbit... @@KermitAdventures
I have 24 high cages so they can stand on hind legs and stretch out.
These cages are 24 inches high. I do see 18 as more the norm, though.
NicE 💝💖💗
It's not just my opinion... lots of people have the same opinion. (click)
Damn you are right
🎉🎉🎉
All rabbits should be in cages. “Free roaming “ is the most stupidest thing I’ve ever heard. Rabbits aren’t cats!!
Hey fancy seeing you here 😂.
The alternative in this case to "cages" is a colony system where they are in a large open area but they are contained with a fence.
@@nateb4485 colonies work for some people but there are so many problems that come with em. Such as it’s really hard to track pedigrees, there’s a higher mortality rate in litters, it’s harder to tell if your rabbits are sick or not cause you can’t really monitor them well, they get injured more often, they can fight with other rabbits, they can more easily catch diseases from wild rabbits, they could dig out, it’s way harder tame the babies cause they’ll be pretty much wild etc.
@@bunnybuttbounceyou don’t know everything about rabbits obviously,
your only listening to Lennon the bunny and only her, like everything’s “abuse” if i don’t do it Lennon the bunny’s stupid frocking way, I’m tired you trolls who say that rabbits should “roam the house” only.
@@BlessedWithPetshow are your beautiful healthy rabbits doing 💜 enjoying the nice weather?
We would all be much safer if we spent our lives living in a closet...
Sush
Hushy
@@KermitAdventures lol you stuttering over text? Poor thing.
Humans are social, rabbits live in holes in the ground and are hierarchical and will fight and neuter each other to keep population in check..
You missed many reasons why colony raising rabbits is not a good way to raise meat rabbits. The main one is,...., it NEVER works. If you have a colony system you will have zero babies, period. It does not work. Rabbits are the dumbest animal, and domesticated rabbits have had what few intelligence they had bred out of them. So they will give birth on the ground and not raise their babies, or they will eat them, or they will fight , or,..., and the list keeps going on. Colony rabbit set up is fantastic for keeping a few adults as entertainment. This is it. If you want to actually have babies, then, sadly, the only way is cages. Nothing else works.
There is more detail in the article on meatrabbits.org but overall, I agree with you.
Seriously? I thought rabbits bred like… rabbits! What do you mean they won’t have babies?! Inquiring minds want to know…
@@dubistverrueckt This is a myth. rabbits only breed like rabbits in a controlled environment. Unless you rape that doe she will not breed often.
I am raising rabbits in colony. I have a local breed of rabbit that never been in cages. They choose a good spot and build their nest and give birth their. And babies survive. If you want to succeed in colony you should raise rabbit on ground in an early age so they used to it. Keep one dominant male only. Separate adults from little ones if you can
I know someone who does the cage system and so far any babies that she has managed to have have failed to thrive and make it, so... 🤷♀️
Well how about a run? You can let them run around a bit and play with friends. Once in a while.
Here's the thing. If they're not bonded, they'll fight. Even littermates will fight eventually. Rabbits aren't truly social; what people think of as social is more about dominance and rabbits will get along...until they don't. My barn and cages are a management style that keeps animals as healthy as possible, focusing on production. Exposure to other animals and ground where I know I have wild rabbits running around is a biosecurity issue, too. Much easier to cacti and control a health issue this way while it is is its infancy. Actually, much better prevention. I have nothing more serious here than a case of ear mites two years ago. Others may consider that an option, though, and that's fine for them.
How do you manage the poop and urine?