I haven't had rat problems before, but that's likely because of where the rabbitry is located. I've got a whole video on where to locate a rabbitry to avoid these properties.
A little tip for sinking your lag hooks into framing lumber--> Chuck up a lag hook in your drill gun. Interlock that hook with the one you want screwed into the frame. Use the hook in your drill gun's chuck to spin it in.
@@ExploreAmerica Glad to here it! It's only slightly more expensive but it makes a big difference for your rabbits. Plus it looks better to customers and visitors.
What are the advantages of hanging the cages, rather than having them on legs? VERY new to all of this. Your content is excellent! Would love to see a series of videos on making the cages and how to site your rabbitry. Thank you!
Hopefully I will be moving soon and documenting a rabbitry build from the ground up. Hanging give you more access to the bottom of the cages, allows you to easily remove the cages for cleaning and repairs. Also prevent predators and parasites from climbing up the legs. Wood exposed to the ground, manure, and urine, will eventually rot and need to be replaced.
I’m wondering what you think about the hanging cages where it gets very cold in the winter? I live in Canada and our winters get down to -31 to -40. Would I be better off having it on the ground, in colonies? Or are they fine at that temp?
I like the New Zealand myself. They also have broken varieties which are interesting. My particular favorite breed is the Californian. It looks like you may have a few. 🙂
Your content is super informative, thank you so much! I was wondering what the average low and high temperature is for your area and the measures you take to protect your herd from the heat/cold?
Glad you find it helpful! This would be a good subject for a video, which I will try to make this week. Short answer is, if they are kept dry and out of the wind, and have plenty of food and water, adult rabbits can take basically any cold. They can take the heat up to 90 degrees without a lot of humidity. Higher than that won't kill them but growth and breeding drop off dramatically. I will elaborate further in the video.
You can just use that chain and hang the cages from the chains letting them swing free. I've seen large commercial rabbit setups using hanging cages and they seem to prefer it that way.
It's an animal welfare thing for me. Rabbits are creatures that spend their whole lives on or underground. The swaying motion from free hanging cages is probably uncomfortable and possibly stressful. There is certainly a lot to learn from commercial operations, but the larger ones are basically factory farms and like any other livestock, the welfare standards can often suck. I understand at the commercial scale where efficiency is necessary why this happens (although I don't approve). At the small scale though there is no excuse. There are many small things I do around my rabbitry to improve welfare where I can. Over sized cages where the rabbits can stand on their hind legs, natural foods, resting boards and solidly mounted cages that eliminate motion. These things are little inconvenient but well worth it.
good video.... but to get those screw hooks in better than channel locks stick a screwdriver threw the hook and spin it around into board until you reach the depth you need. Or attach a small vise grip to hook an spin the vise grip around saves handling a pair of bulky channel locks
I'm just getting into breeding meat rabbits and finding your videos VERY helpful and informative! I'm working out my cage plans and planned to do one like you mentioned, with doubling them up with the roofing in-between. My plan is to have 4 cage/rabbits per stand. And attaching the cages to the stand framing with mending plates. It's just a plan in my head for now, but it might be helpful for someone to get an idea to run with. 😊
That's a good plan! We are building out a new rabbitry, so I'll have a detailed video on this soon, but two suggestions. I wouldn't recommend stacking cages unless you absolutely have to. And make sure you can easily remove your cages from your frame/stand for cleaning. Good luck!
I’m on a fixed income. Look for an affordable way to raise meat protein and eggs in a small foot in a suburban backyard. I need to know where is the best place to get the wire , j clips, watering system. Waste pans. Etc.
From a commercial perspective it's frowned upon because they will burn more calories and the meat will be tougher, but it's worth it to me as I prioritize the welfare of my animals.
FYI: TH-cam has changed the comments and the more section on Homestead and preparedness channel where you can’t read the other comments are more information.
I'm a new subscriber. I'm getting back into rabbits for meat. I'd like to know some different ways to catch the droppings for fertilizer. I'm not a very strong woman these days so am thinking to have some kind of funnel to catch into a bin of some kind for easier cleaning but I can use the fertilizer for the garden. Thanks. I like your information.
I typically just let them pile up and shovel them out twice a year. Some people I know have hung a sheet of metal under the cage to direct the droppings. You could bend and slope it so the it channels manure into a bucket.
@@westmeadowrabbits hi there, thank you for replying to such an old video. I’ve just looked them up again. It says galvanised iron. It says gives years of use. I don’t live on a homestead, but a rented house in UK. I would like to keep meat rabbits for my use, I enjoy wild caught ones occasionally.
@@anitachisnell8412 No problem. They would likely be ok, but the plastic coating will not last as long as the metal. Be sure to provide resting boards just to be safe.
@@westmeadowrabbits thank you, yes I will get boards, and I watched your video on vinegar to clean them. That’s a very useful tip, thank you again. I’m enjoying listening to your videos, I’ve like and subscribed to them.
@@westmeadowrabbits the size of the wire. Are the walls 1” x 2” and the floor 1/4”? Sorry - wasn’t clear. Thanks! We are in west Texas. I’m studying on how to battle the heat. At 112 degrees rabbits don’t do well so I’m rethinking things. Considered the colonies but honestly I think the fire ants would kill the babies. Thanks - I enjoy your channel!
@@doublemountainman9962 Walls are 1 x 2", the floor is 1" x 1/2". Wire is 14 gauge after weld. That temp is definitely on the upper end of what rabbits can handle, but with good airflow, several layers of shade, and maybe some misters you could still do fine!
If I live in a city and have a house. Can rabbits be kept in the garage or shed during the winter? Where to buy pre-built cages? How much? Can you recommend sources? Do you sell? How to keep them warm in the winter?
I once had rabbit cages in a vinyl shed, and the problem I encountered was them urinating on the walls. So I wouldn't put them in or near an enclosure that will let it soak in especially wood.
They do have urine guards which are fairly cheap. I wouldn't recommend plastic in the cage unless you are fine replacing it after the rabbits chew it. Typically only the bucks regularly spray urine, so if you keep them far away then you don't have to waste money on urine guards.
I don't see any stressed rabbits. They look very happy.
I try my best!
We built rat proof cages in my barn, we have rats in our barn, they'll eat your rabbit babies
I haven't had rat problems before, but that's likely because of where the rabbitry is located. I've got a whole video on where to locate a rabbitry to avoid these properties.
A little tip for sinking your lag hooks into framing lumber--> Chuck up a lag hook in your drill gun. Interlock that hook with the one you want screwed into the frame. Use the hook in your drill gun's chuck to spin it in.
That is a great trick that I will be sure to use!
I really like your videos!!!How much would you charge per cage?
Thanks! Are you local to southern NH? If so fill out a form on my website and we can talk!
You sold me on the 24 inch rule.
@@ExploreAmerica Glad to here it! It's only slightly more expensive but it makes a big difference for your rabbits. Plus it looks better to customers and visitors.
What are the advantages of hanging the cages, rather than having them on legs? VERY new to all of this. Your content is excellent! Would love to see a series of videos on making the cages and how to site your rabbitry. Thank you!
Hopefully I will be moving soon and documenting a rabbitry build from the ground up. Hanging give you more access to the bottom of the cages, allows you to easily remove the cages for cleaning and repairs. Also prevent predators and parasites from climbing up the legs. Wood exposed to the ground, manure, and urine, will eventually rot and need to be replaced.
I’m wondering what you think about the hanging cages where it gets very cold in the winter? I live in Canada and our winters get down to -31 to -40. Would I be better off having it on the ground, in colonies? Or are they fine at that temp?
Utilizing gravity to snug up your cages in the back, put L screws in at a downward angle.
I like the New Zealand myself. They also have broken varieties which are interesting. My particular favorite breed is the Californian. It looks like you may have a few. 🙂
I love my New Zealand Reds and am looking to get into brokens. I also really like the Californians!
Your content is super informative, thank you so much! I was wondering what the average low and high temperature is for your area and the measures you take to protect your herd from the heat/cold?
Glad you find it helpful! This would be a good subject for a video, which I will try to make this week. Short answer is, if they are kept dry and out of the wind, and have plenty of food and water, adult rabbits can take basically any cold. They can take the heat up to 90 degrees without a lot of humidity. Higher than that won't kill them but growth and breeding drop off dramatically. I will elaborate further in the video.
Thank you so much for this information. I've learned a lot from your videos.
Rất hay ! Câm ơn bạn chia sẽ về chăn nuôi thỏ !
You can just use that chain and hang the cages from the chains letting them swing free.
I've seen large commercial rabbit setups using hanging cages and they seem to prefer it that way.
It's an animal welfare thing for me. Rabbits are creatures that spend their whole lives on or underground. The swaying motion from free hanging cages is probably uncomfortable and possibly stressful. There is certainly a lot to learn from commercial operations, but the larger ones are basically factory farms and like any other livestock, the welfare standards can often suck. I understand at the commercial scale where efficiency is necessary why this happens (although I don't approve). At the small scale though there is no excuse. There are many small things I do around my rabbitry to improve welfare where I can. Over sized cages where the rabbits can stand on their hind legs, natural foods, resting boards and solidly mounted cages that eliminate motion. These things are little inconvenient but well worth it.
good video.... but to get those screw hooks in better than channel locks stick a screwdriver threw the hook and spin it around into board until you reach the depth you need. Or attach a small vise grip to hook an spin the vise grip around saves handling a pair of bulky channel locks
Agreed! Many people have said the same thing. With those particular hooks and the angles in the cage channel locks were my best bet at the time.
I'm just getting into breeding meat rabbits and finding your videos VERY helpful and informative! I'm working out my cage plans and planned to do one like you mentioned, with doubling them up with the roofing in-between. My plan is to have 4 cage/rabbits per stand. And attaching the cages to the stand framing with mending plates.
It's just a plan in my head for now, but it might be helpful for someone to get an idea to run with. 😊
That's a good plan! We are building out a new rabbitry, so I'll have a detailed video on this soon, but two suggestions.
I wouldn't recommend stacking cages unless you absolutely have to. And make sure you can easily remove your cages from your frame/stand for cleaning.
Good luck!
As usual. Great info
Sam! Happy to see another video out brother. keep it up, great work as always.
I’m on a fixed income. Look for an affordable way to raise meat protein and eggs in a small foot in a suburban backyard. I need to know where is the best place to get the wire , j clips, watering system. Waste pans. Etc.
I think giving them more room to move around and jump will build better muscle tone for them, awesome job!
From a commercial perspective it's frowned upon because they will burn more calories and the meat will be tougher, but it's worth it to me as I prioritize the welfare of my animals.
FYI: TH-cam has changed the comments and the more section on Homestead and preparedness channel where you can’t read the other comments are more information.
Rất hay ! Câm ơn bạn chia sẽ về chăn nuôi thỏ !
what are the breeds of your rabbit??
new subscriber from philippines..
I raise New Zealand rabbits,
Looks good 👍
I'm a new subscriber. I'm getting back into rabbits for meat. I'd like to know some different ways to catch the droppings for fertilizer. I'm not a very strong woman these days so am thinking to have some kind of funnel to catch into a bin of some kind for easier cleaning but I can use the fertilizer for the garden. Thanks. I like your information.
I typically just let them pile up and shovel them out twice a year. Some people I know have hung a sheet of metal under the cage to direct the droppings. You could bend and slope it so the it channels manure into a bucket.
@@westmeadowrabbits my dogs would love free rabbit poo to eat at will. Haha They'll have to wait for meat.
@@jobird354 Mine does to!
I know this is an old video, but pvc on iron cages, anyone know how they do for rabbits? I can’t find any gauge 14 wire with suitable sized mesh.
Do you mean wire coated in plastic?
@@westmeadowrabbits yes, but the metal is described as iron, pvc coated. It says they are rabbit cages or for pets.
@@westmeadowrabbits hi there, thank you for replying to such an old video. I’ve just looked them up again. It says galvanised iron. It says gives years of use. I don’t live on a homestead, but a rented house in UK. I would like to keep meat rabbits for my use, I enjoy wild caught ones occasionally.
@@anitachisnell8412 No problem. They would likely be ok, but the plastic coating will not last as long as the metal. Be sure to provide resting boards just to be safe.
@@westmeadowrabbits thank you, yes I will get boards, and I watched your video on vinegar to clean them. That’s a very useful tip, thank you again. I’m enjoying listening to your videos, I’ve like and subscribed to them.
Nice cozy cages !!
thanks
What dimensions are the holes in your walls and floor? Sorry if I missed it.
Which holes?
@@westmeadowrabbits the size of the wire. Are the walls 1” x 2” and the floor 1/4”? Sorry - wasn’t clear. Thanks!
We are in west Texas. I’m studying on how to battle the heat. At 112 degrees rabbits don’t do well so I’m rethinking things. Considered the colonies but honestly I think the fire ants would kill the babies.
Thanks - I enjoy your channel!
@@doublemountainman9962 Walls are 1 x 2", the floor is 1" x 1/2". Wire is 14 gauge after weld. That temp is definitely on the upper end of what rabbits can handle, but with good airflow, several layers of shade, and maybe some misters you could still do fine!
@@westmeadowrabbits Perfect. Thanks amigo.
What state are you located in?
I'm in MA.
Thanks for the videos i love them🙌
Glad you like them!
Make shipments to Puerto Rico
You think cats-claw fasteners would work well for attaching the back of the rabbit cage?
Those would work great. The reason I use the hooks is because it's easier to remove the cages for repair and cleaning.
They would get stressed at 2 am .. when animals like raccoon make their way under their cages
Thankfully my cages are inside a closed pen so no problems there.
If I live in a city and have a house. Can rabbits be kept in the garage or shed during the winter? Where to buy pre-built cages? How much? Can you recommend sources? Do you sell? How to keep them warm in the winter?
Tractor supply has ready made rabbit cages they come in 2 sizes about $40.00
I once had rabbit cages in a vinyl shed, and the problem I encountered was them urinating on the walls. So I wouldn't put them in or near an enclosure that will let it soak in especially wood.
Try L screws instead.
That's a good idea. This whole setup has been ad hoc. I'm planning on moving soon and building from the ground up which will be awesome.
Maybe plastic on that wall to stop the pee?
They do have urine guards which are fairly cheap. I wouldn't recommend plastic in the cage unless you are fine replacing it after the rabbits chew it. Typically only the bucks regularly spray urine, so if you keep them far away then you don't have to waste money on urine guards.
@@westmeadowrabbits I said on the wall not in the cage 😌 looks good
What gauge of wire is this? I feel like 16 would easily be torn off considering the weight of the rabbits inside
14 gauge for floors, 16 is fine for walls and ceilings. Make sure it is galvanized after welding.
Do you have a estimate of what the cage cost to build?
Depends on if you already have the tools and are buying in bulk. Typically between 60-100 based on those factors.