In many of your portraits, there is a nice soft gradation of shadow .. from the key light to the fill. As a retired photo-enthusiast, I like to use "wrap-around fill" in my portraits. I am all about softness in the shadow. Great work, Nathan ! I once mentioned that your tutorials are outstanding .. I still stand by that !
Every time i watch one of your lessons i learn something...besides the editing process. I finally found out how these metal gobos are working in conjunction with a lens on the key light 😊
I love this video series, I’m always looking forward to it. I can’t wait to see more. Question, have you ever thought about doing a video on how to teach future photographers how to book work? Whether that be how to get started in fashion or commercial photography.
Hi Nathan, really love your work and been learning a lot on how you manage your lighting technique. Wondering if you have a tutorial for using LED and LED + strobes in one of your library. If not, would like to see how you incorporate and produce your art with it. More power.
Question for you, Nathan! Does the aperture on the lens make any difference on the snoot? For example, is there a difference between using a f1.4 lens vs a f4 lens?
Hey Wayne! Yes it does. You'll want wide aperture lens' to get the maximum light output as this modifier does eat up some light for sure. I use 1.4 lens' wide open at 1.4 every time I use it.
@@NathanElson Ok, cool! I'm actually getting it delivered today, your videos convinced me it was the best of the snoots out there that do something like this (the lens giving the variety of looks). I have two lenses I'm going to try it with, a 35mm and an 85mm (both 1.8 lenses). But I think I might try to find a cheap wide angle to really get the most out of it. Appreciate the reply!
Nice work Nathan! I learned a similar technique elsewhere but this is a great “keep it simple” approach. I’m curious how you have your brush circle outline thick during dodge and burn. My circle outline is so thin it can be hard to spot. For example when your brush is over a dark part of the image, it has a nice thick white outline.
Thanks Karl! I actually have no idea why the outline on my brush would be thicker than yours. I've never changed any settings on the visual aspects of it. Wish I could be of more help.
Fantastic Nathan, I've learnt a lot from your tutorials! Just a question, there is another set of images by you with a model wearing white, with a belly tattoo. The light is black with a lighted skewed rectangle. My question is, can that be achieved with the same gobo (slit) as I have this optical snoot and would like to try exactly that.
You mentioned in another comment that the dodge and burn tools are not as powerful in Lr as they are in Ps. What are the major differences between Photoshop's vs Lr/C1's tools?
I can see tøj hat the wacom intous pro medium. Tablet Do you use the whole surface or could you just as well have bought the small version. When I edit with a mouse I do pretty small movements. Like a few cm. I dont Know if it is Very different when you work with a tablet. Because I dont have one
Could you come pretty close to this type of post production work using only Lightroom? I am not a professional and want to keep my costs down. I’m not sure if LR has dodge and burn but it’s software I know and it’s priced pretty low. Thanks for your videos Nathan. I’m a big fan.
To a degree. Lr's D&B options are pretty limited, but with enough ambition one can do anything :) That being said, Adobe does package Lr and PS together for a solid price.
Very beautiful image! A tip: color temperature while taking the picture DOES MATTER! It may sound absurd, but taking a picture with 5600K light and daylight setting in the camera and 3200K light and tungsten setting in the camera have different results. The closer to infrared the source light, the softer an healthier the skin looks. The closer to UV the source light the more pronounced the skin blemishes. Try it out for the next time, put a CTO or CTS filter on your flash. Specially with lingerie in BW you may end up with much less retouching needed! Ask any old film photographer and he will tell you that he prefers by far tungsten over daylight for BW beauty and lingerie. Try it out. you won't regret it. And again. Don't use modern photolens in front of a light projecting device. You WILL end up destroying it. 600 USD is to much for risking it melting on your light. Use a full metal old school manual focus lens.
Haha I was wondering if anyone was going to notice that ;) I had exported the raw files as psd for another project and the HDD I had with me had those files on it rather than the .nef files. I figured it was better to shoot the video with the psd files (since they were unedited) than waste the day. Cheers
Hi Paul, He tells you at the beginning of the video. 1/2 power on a 600ws light. That said the distance is not mentioned which is why settings largely irrelevant in these videos.
I love that you left the do over in at 7:37. We all need a do over in our lives.
I wish I had a few more do-overs.
this is definitely the best photography channel on youtube. I learn a lot from you. thank you so much for the free lessons.
In many of your portraits, there is a nice soft gradation of shadow .. from the key light to the fill. As a retired photo-enthusiast, I like to use "wrap-around fill" in my portraits.
I am all about softness in the shadow. Great work, Nathan ! I once mentioned that your tutorials are outstanding .. I still stand by that !
Thanks Terry, I appreciate the kind words.
As usual your technique is so straight forward and yet powerful. And good teaching. Thank you.
Thanks Alex!
gorgeous lighting & image … soooo nice! 👌🏼
Thank you! Cheers!
Your workflow is so organized. I feel like you make it very easy to understand and follow. I love your editing workflow.
Thanks Lucien! Glad you are able to follow along without any issues :)
Nathan my man 😎👊🏾, this is just fantastic. Love your work, your editing, lighting everything. 👌🏾👌🏾
Thanks man!
Every time i watch one of your lessons i learn something...besides the editing process. I finally found out how these metal gobos are working in conjunction with a lens on the key light 😊
Awesome. Glad you keeping picking up something new!
Another great video! A love this series 👌🏻
Thanks Reno! Glad you’re enjoying it.
Love this. Can't wait to try it.
Thanks! Share the result when you get a chance.
@@NathanElson sorry, just saw that you have the snoot linked lol. Appreciate your response and love your work!
I love this video series, I’m always looking forward to it. I can’t wait to see more.
Question, have you ever thought about doing a video on how to teach future photographers how to book work? Whether that be how to get started in fashion or commercial photography.
Thanks Brian! Glad you are enjoying it. Thanks for the video idea, it might be something I work into the mix in the future.
Great video series! Awesome work
Thanks Ron! Glad you're enjoying it.
Hi Nathan, really love your work and been learning a lot on how you manage your lighting technique. Wondering if you have a tutorial for using LED and LED + strobes in one of your library. If not, would like to see how you incorporate and produce your art with it. More power.
Nothing yet but coming soon ;)
Thank you Nate for great video
Thanks for watching!
Question for you, Nathan! Does the aperture on the lens make any difference on the snoot? For example, is there a difference between using a f1.4 lens vs a f4 lens?
Hey Wayne! Yes it does. You'll want wide aperture lens' to get the maximum light output as this modifier does eat up some light for sure. I use 1.4 lens' wide open at 1.4 every time I use it.
@@NathanElson Ok, cool! I'm actually getting it delivered today, your videos convinced me it was the best of the snoots out there that do something like this (the lens giving the variety of looks). I have two lenses I'm going to try it with, a 35mm and an 85mm (both 1.8 lenses). But I think I might try to find a cheap wide angle to really get the most out of it. Appreciate the reply!
@@waynedennyphoto Awesome! I'm actually a big fan of using a 50mm on mine.
Always good stufff! Thanks Nate! question though...for the legs..might it be easier to do a frequency separation? Hope all is well brother!
Thanks Rich, and that may work for sure, haven't really gotten into the FS style of editing.
Nice work Nathan! I learned a similar technique elsewhere but this is a great “keep it simple” approach.
I’m curious how you have your brush circle outline thick during dodge and burn. My circle outline is so thin it can be hard to spot. For example when your brush is over a dark part of the image, it has a nice thick white outline.
Thanks Karl! I actually have no idea why the outline on my brush would be thicker than yours. I've never changed any settings on the visual aspects of it. Wish I could be of more help.
@@NathanElson ah ok. No worries Nathan! Keep up the great work and educating us!
Fantastic Nathan, I've learnt a lot from your tutorials!
Just a question, there is another set of images by you with a model wearing white, with a belly tattoo. The light is black with a lighted skewed rectangle. My question is, can that be achieved with the same gobo (slit) as I have this optical snoot and would like to try exactly that.
I meant the background is black! Black light would be handy!
Hey Barry! That was shot using window light, but I am working on something that will allow you to make that kind of design with the snoot ;)
You mentioned in another comment that the dodge and burn tools are not as powerful in Lr as they are in Ps. What are the major differences between Photoshop's vs Lr/C1's tools?
I can see tøj hat the wacom intous pro medium. Tablet
Do you use the whole surface or could you just as well have bought the small version.
When I edit with a mouse I do pretty small movements. Like a few cm. I dont Know if it is Very different when you work with a tablet. Because I dont have one
How do you import dodge and burn presets and do you have video of how to use dodge and burn
Could you come pretty close to this type of post production work using only Lightroom? I am not a professional and want to keep my costs down. I’m not sure if LR has dodge and burn but it’s software I know and it’s priced pretty low. Thanks for your videos Nathan. I’m a big fan.
To a degree. Lr's D&B options are pretty limited, but with enough ambition one can do anything :) That being said, Adobe does package Lr and PS together for a solid price.
@@NathanElson yeah. I was thinking about upping my subscription. 20 a month ain't bad
Great work
Thanks!
Is it possible to achieve this slit light with vflats, like you did in your most recent video?
Possible, but a little trickier to get that super hard edge.
Pretty cool
Thanks Alex
Is that snoot Bowens mount or do you need an adapter?
It’s Bowen’s mount
@1:31 f1.4 is four stop less I guess, not three, compared to f 5.6 🙂
Very beautiful image! A tip: color temperature while taking the picture DOES MATTER! It may sound absurd, but taking a picture with 5600K light and daylight setting in the camera and 3200K light and tungsten setting in the camera have different results. The closer to infrared the source light, the softer an healthier the skin looks. The closer to UV the source light the more pronounced the skin blemishes. Try it out for the next time, put a CTO or CTS filter on your flash. Specially with lingerie in BW you may end up with much less retouching needed! Ask any old film photographer and he will tell you that he prefers by far tungsten over daylight for BW beauty and lingerie. Try it out. you won't regret it. And again. Don't use modern photolens in front of a light projecting device. You WILL end up destroying it. 600 USD is to much for risking it melting on your light. Use a full metal old school manual focus lens.
Thanks for the tip!
Amazing
Thanks
.psd files straight out of camera?
Haha I was wondering if anyone was going to notice that ;) I had exported the raw files as psd for another project and the HDD I had with me had those files on it rather than the .nef files. I figured it was better to shoot the video with the psd files (since they were unedited) than waste the day. Cheers
At last someone who uses a light meter with measured readings. Great work. Apart from you using Nikon 😉😂 only joking.
Light meter for life, possibly Nikon for life too 😉
What power do you have on the flash?
1/2 power on the key light. I don't remember what the power setting on the fill was.
Can you please show the power on your snoot?
Hi Paul, He tells you at the beginning of the video. 1/2 power on a 600ws light. That said the distance is not mentioned which is why settings largely irrelevant in these videos.