I have just changed the discs and pads on my E400 Coupe, as you say its not a complicated job but still, watching your superb, easy to follow video gave me the confidence to tackle it. A big thank you for saving me a lot of money at the dealers. Just the rear to do now!
I will be one of many who will thank you for this video. Managed to change front discs & Pads with a bit of elbow grease on my E400... Forever grateful!
Been out of the trade for a few years, so always double check on YT to ensure i know what to expect - some videos are just poor and misleading - so thank you for a really good video - clear concise and detailed.
Thank you so much for taking the time to document and upload this guide. I've done plenty of brake jobs on my past vehicles, but none had a brake set up like the c class, so this helped me greatly. One of my pins was completely seized. Eventually, I had to cut the pin and drill it out and replace it.
I drive a W213 E350d model in South Korea and after watching your video, I learned exactly how to replace brake discs. It was really helpful, thank you !
I didn't have the caliper spreader tool so I simply loosened the brake caliper nipple to get rid of the pressure then hand pressed the brake pads back. Best to do a brake bleed after to get rid of air in then caliper and lines.
I finally got around to doing the front brakes on my C238 today, and one thing i didn't see in your video was that the two pins are actually held in place at the rear of the caliper by a thin 'wire' which threads through both of the pins, so I was trying my best to remove the pin before i had a closer look, it wouldn't budge as the wire was holding it in place, maybe this is not present on the W213, but it was on my C238, thanks again for the video it helped a lot !
Ok. Is yours a full fat AMG car (rather than an AMG Line)? My wife’s A238 cab is exactly the same as the video. Maybe someone put the wires on previously during a change or out caution?
mine is simply a E400 238 (not the cab), and I'm based in Sweden, it's a 2018 model and the only difference in the video and my car was that additional wire (on both sides), it looks like the part was from the factory as the center part of it fits in cleanly to a center hole, also, each pin had a hole for the wire to enter. maybe my car has more horsepower than yours and that might explain it ?
That’s why i make the videos. Cars might have more computers but the mechanics are essentially still the same as 30 years ago! Glad it has/will help you.
Thanks for this video, I’ve got my self a E Class S212 and what a joy to own. Purchased a full set of OEM pads and discs and just about to fit them. I was wondering what tools I would need and here is my answer, thanks again for such an informative tutorial. 🏴
Nice one ... from now I know how to easy change the brake pads :) The problem is I thought I will get new sensors with BREMBO brake pads. Can I use the old sensors? Im not changing brake discs yet. Should be ok.
No issues with reusing the old sensor if it’s not broken 👍. PS: do not use Brembo, go with ATE and ceramic pads. Brembo’s I fitted only last 10k km before warping.
@@mercedes_and_more Will come in handy when I do mine. I can see the front brakes have only a little left before they touch the sensor, do you know the torque figures for the 21mm bolts on the caliper? Thanks.
Glad it helped you. Most of the videos on here are equally applicable to the 205 series as they are essentially the same car apart from the rear of the rear axle 👍
I also nee to change the near side lower control arm do you have a video on this job? or at least have the torque settings for the nuts etc.@@mercedes_and_more
@@skippercaship Inside bolt is 90nm + 180deg. Steering knuckle joint is 220nm. I haven’t yet done it on my car as i have air suspension and the whole car needs to be off the ground and the suspension air bag deactivated by XEntry. Don’t forget that the bolts in the bushings need to be done up with the car on the ground so as not to wear out very prematurely. Ball joints can be torqued up when in the air.
@mercedes_and_more thanks for the heads up! Not quite ready to replace but I have a kit from Powerstop lined up for the day it comes time. With your help, I might just do it myself.
Update - BREMBO brakes turned out to be a waste of money. Will never fit again. Replaced (already) and with ATE and with ATE ceramic pads (no brake dust!). Good luck
@@Coco-ux8vw they warped (3mm!!) after 10k km (originals got to 95k km). No towing, no heavy braking. Took the wheel bearing’s with them due to the vibration. No answer/response from BREMBO customer care 🙁
Thanks. I bought from Autodoc but they are many alternatives. If you haven’t read the further comments do not buy brembo as they failed very quickly. I then went to ATE discs and ceramic pads. All good
@@mercedes_and_more My front brakes are the floating type. So I used your instructions from the rear brakes ;-). One thing I however can't settle is the brake pad warning. I reset the warning with my scan tool but the warning comes back. Something wrong with the sensor? Have you any idea how this sensor works? Do I need it to push it in further?
@@devroonhof I’m glad you got there with changing them though. The sensor is a one time use item, so if it came on and that is why you are changing the brakes you’ll need to but a new sensor (about €12 from MB, about 3 to 5 from a motor factor). Sounds to me as though the sensor is broken?
@@mercedes_and_more Thanks. Didn't know that it is a 'one time use'. The replacement of the disks was rather simple. Simpler than the change of the discs of my 1999 Defender....
Commented also but read somewhere that it might be one of the reasons some cars have vibration since when not flush with the rotor it doesn’t allow your wheel to seat properly
You could turn the wheel for better access (assuming you have both off the ground. Personally i use a spanner and a “gentle” tap of a hammer if i can’t fit a breaker bar in
Not quite sure what you mean by the system? Normally i use a brush (wearing a mask) to clean calipers, brush on a drill to clean high face. Brake cleaner at the end to ensure nothing left. Does that help?
Just a note , you do not need a special tool to push pistons back in . Just use a large screwdriver or lever and push the pistons back using the old pads to push against .
Ok, brake pads changed in my E350 W212 .... second wheel in 10min but the first one omg i can't pull out one of those pins hahaha 😅 take me 1 hour to take this out ... use special screwdriver 🪛 and 3kg hammer 😂 ... done! Usually change just front brake pads will take 20 min for me so pretty quick if all going well 😊
As an update, the Brembo discs for this car now come dimpled rather than perforated. So don't be alarmed when you get them out of the box and think there's a fault or you've got the wrong discs! Apparently dimpled is superior to fully perforated. There's a few videos here explaining why. Tbh I doubt either make much difference on road cars for everyday driving anyway.
Well the ones i fitted in the video lasted 10k miles and warped taking the wheel bearings with them! Since swapped to ATE with ATE ceramic pads. 99% eliminated and steering wobble under braking.
@@mercedes_and_moreinteresting, I have a 4Matic C220d with a vibration starting slightly after 110 km/h and just can’t get where it comes from… calibrated the wheels, new tires, swapped with other wheels I bought and still the same. I also notice the screw that holds the disc was slightly standing off after you installed the disc… something got my attention on that screw when I swapped my wheels, have to double check that. Do you remember or noticed something on that on the other discs change?
@@mercedes_and_more hello thank you very much for your answer it's really kind yes if it doesn't bother you I'm waiting for your return please forgive me for the inconvenience :-) see you soon
Love your video it’s helps a lot I’m trying to replace my brake pads but I would like to know your recommendation for a 2018 c43 amg. Akebono, brembo or power stop(name of the brand). And does it matter if I use two separate brand for the front and rear? Thank you
Thanks for the great comments. My BREMO disks only lasted 10k km and then warped. Am currently using ATE and so far so good. Also switched to ATE Ceramic pads at the front. Very little brake dust (as they advertise) so thoroughly recommended.
@@mercedes_and_more thank for your suggestion. By any chance do you know what type of socket I’ll need to take out my 18” 5 twin spoke wheel? It a 6 point sockets that’s hollow in the middle. I’ve test a 18mm 6 point sockets and it fits but I want to make sure it’s the correct one before I continue. Can’t seem to find the answer online. Thank you
@@NaireMindset is that by chance the locking wheel nut bolt? Otherwise the wheel bolts are 17mm for all wheel sizes? If it helps then email at the address on the channel “about” section a photo and i can then help you more.
Hi, thanks for the video. Do you know if the 2 caliper bolts need to be replaced as well? I remember when I was working on the rear brakes, one of the bolts broke while tightening on 60nm, I would like to avoid this happens while applying 120nm. And the last question, I just got new ATE rotors, they came with a plastic yellow little screw that mounts the rotor to the bearing, I believe I should not be worried that the screw is plastic? Thanks for help.
Caliper bolts do not need to be renewed, just cleaned and new thread locker. I now have ATE discs and the plastic screw is very robust so don’t worry 👍👍
Thanks for your reply, very appreciated. I remember having read that on the little screw a thread lock should be aslo applied and was just wondering when I saw that plastic screw.., normally we do not apply a thread lock on plastic screws, if I am not wrong.
Hi l, I have just completed the job, all fine. I have been still thinking about the yellow plastic screw. The brakes do have to be resistant to high temperatures, just wondering if the plastic screw would not melt. What do you think? I woud feel better with the original or any metal screw if it fits. Worth to investigate maybe?
It is basically part of the subframe bolted to the front chassis. I think the engine might be connected to this subframe but basically you are jacking the chassis not the engine 👍👍
Thanks for the video, If i was only changing pads once you pushed back the pistons and removed the old pads you could simply just put new pads in without having to remove the caliper. Would that be correct?
Yes, that’s absolutely correct, although you do need to clean any remnants of old pad 3M tape from the caliper pistons but there should be enough access 👍
No i don’t but i find sort info on Forums, especially mbworld. Think you can get one as a full workshop manual download from Haynes. In the meantime you’ll just have to subscribe 😜
Hi there, excellent video. I was trying to read the Brembo part number of the front disks but couldn't. I have visited Brembo's website but don't see a code/part number for front disks. Do you have that by anychance?
The part numbers are in the video description information. Please be aware though that the (retrospectively) i would not recommend fitting these discs. My front ones warped by 3mm after 10k miles (hence the video about replacing front wheel bearings). They were genuine ones. I have now fitted Autodocs ABS branded products and so far so good (and 33%) of the price of Brembo.
@@ramygalal8027 if you ares in U.K. i would recommend GSF’s own brand but i am not sure if they do them for this car with the sports park? I thought Brembo as the OE supplier for this car would be good but they failed after 10k Km and I am very gentle on my brakes. I have replaced them with a Dutch brand called ABS bought from AutoDoc. So far so good and brake feel is great. What’s the worse that can happen - the wear out at 10k km and I renew for €100??
@@TheLionInTheArea I can’t comment but as they are fundamentally the same brake (although I think the retaining pins are slightly different)and the bolts are the same size then it should be. Maybe ask on a dedicated AMG forum to check?
I bought mine via Amazon. Think they are all much of a muchness and all made in China! Mine cost about €20 (at the time) and think they are about the same in £’s. If you search with brake pad spreader ratchet you should get a selection of suitable tools 👍👍
I don’t find those rotors, you wrote 09.D521.23 but I only found 09.D529.23 It’s a 9 instead of a 1 but I don’t know if it’s another rotor and you can’t be too careful when buying car parts! Thanks!
Can’t really comment as i will have written the part number down from the box. That said, i find these brakes were terrible and they worried after 10k km. I replaced them with ATE and have had no issues 40k km later👍
@@brunodrakenas9575 ABS are ok, but based ATE make the OE and combined with ceramic pads for less brake dust (big difference) then that’s a winning value for money combo 💪
@@mercedes_and_more so those ATE rotors you bought and ATE ceramic pads is the way to go? Is ceramic pads compatible with non ceramic rotors 🤔 You need the same brand on rotors and pads?
@@brunodrakenas9575 ceramic pads are compatible with any brand of discs but their composition means they produce about 90% less dust. Don’t confuse with hyper expensive ceramic carbon disc 😳. The only downfall with ceramic pads is that they can seem to have lees bite (according to the marketing blurb) but honestly I couldn’t tell the difference but am generally quite light in my brakes (well before this car anyway)!
Zentrieschraube=10nm , Schrauben Bremssattel an Achsschenkel M14=80nm + 45° oder wenn verbaut bei M12=120nm … darüber hinaus brauchst du den Deckel für die Bremsenflüssigkeit nicht öffnen, der Kolben lässt sich so zurückdrücken. Außer du hast die möglichkeit und das wissen zum entlüften, sonst droht Lebensgefahr. Im Bordcomputer ‘’ Bremsbelag wechsel ‘’ anwählen. Das Video ist vom amateur für naja..
@@GustavoGarcia_46thanks for your comments. Whilst you are free to comment as you wish (and I have not removed it, which I could) and just to show how much your opinion means, the change brake pad function is only for the rear brakes as this unlocks the hand brake. If you are in doubt then feel free to watch that video of mine, or indeed his to change the rear pads. Tschuß amateur.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I've to do my pads on same car.. I was shopping around for pads that have less dust than factory. Are the brembo ones that you installed the actual factory replacement?? If not any better with dust? Any help would be much appreciated...
Thanks for the positive comments. Despite appearances i generally try not to be too hard my brakes. I suspect the current wear is due to the fact we have done quite alot of towing. I think there is a little less dust with these than the original factory ones but it could be the dust is a little lighter. It’s certainly not any worse!
Great with explanation around each steps. Good video. Wear gloves though, i feel sorry for your hands, i can see you have cut yourself and its pretty easy to do when doing brakes.
@@Junaidddevil i normally do, but the trouble is being able still grip small parts. I don’t often do work or my cars like this so i generally take the one off hit 😬😬
Thanks. I don’t know if you must but it should eliminate sqeaking. That said I’ve had my tube for years. As an after-note do not use Brembo brakes. The ones i fitted in this video later 5 months (10k km) and warped. Since replaced by Autodoc’s own brand label!
Hey, did you fully solve the wabbleling while braking problem? I have the same problem and changed the brake discs 3 times already and they all did arownd 8/10k km
Yes and No. I now know that every making surface needs to be wire wheeled to make it look like new before putting the disc on the hub and the wheel on the disc. Also tightening the wheels to 20, 75 and then 150 nm must be followed. My Brembo discs warped after 10k but ATE are doing excellently after 50k and fitting ceramic pads really does keep down brake dust. That said I stop here a wobble from 55 to 50 kph but no other speed! Replacing the totally knackered suspension components made no difference.
Never knew they were Brembo brakes?? They're easier to change.. Strange it's just 1 screw to hold on the brake disc?? Thought Mercedes would have put 2 screws opposite each other..
I’m sorry to hear that. I would suggest taking it all apart and absolutely cleaning all surfaces to within an inch of the life. Also, if you didn’t, then also replace the two pad retraining pins in the caliper. Also, have tighten the nuts to 20nm (with the wheel in the air), then 75nm with it just touching the floor to do it moving, then 120nm and then finally wheel on the ground upto 150nm. If it’s any consolation then mine wobble at 55 to 50 kph but not any other speed so…..
Thanks for your reply. When replacing them, i never torqued them to spec as i never done that for any other car i owned. Another merc texh has advise the same. I appreciate your advice but so you really think they can easily get warped if not torqued to spec?
@@mateenj97 i only found this info out after I’d made the video (is in a video in the playlist). I think if you take apart and re-do you’ll probably be ok. Got to be (financially) worth a go?
@@mateenj97 hey, have you already solved this problem? I have the same isseue with my w213 AMG. I have already replaced 3 sets of discs and pads without success
It was actually on Amazon. The one i bought is no longer available but this one under a different name it’s still available. I’ll put a link in the video description
@alpaytuna9964 do you mean steering wobble? 99% solved with new discs pads (since changed again to ATE as BREMBOs warped), making every surface spotless, and following the workshop procedure for wheel tightening (there is an ATE video at this in my Mercedes playlist) 👍
I have yet to find a video actually showing somebody loosening the caliper bolts. For some reason (😇) nobody shows how hard (or easy?) it is to get them turning, especially in the tight wheel well. 😂 BTW: don't use copper paste on brakes with aluminum parts. You will get corrosion on the aluminum. Nowadays just use ceramic paste, which is suitable for all types of brakes and materials.
I don’t think i showed undoing them because space is tight to film and do the job. You definitely normally need a long bar for the initial leverage. I’ve just done my sons Ford focus this weekend and they are tightened to 173Nm!!
No, the brake disc is smaller on Avantgarde cars and the caliper floats (like the rear one). In theory you could upgrade to the AMG Line one of the caliper bolts are in the same place (but i don’t know if they are).
@@mercedes_and_more Thanks very much for your updates and vids. I was considering cheaping out on my non-AMG line E300 and going for bosch rotors. After seeing your wheel bearing vid, and your Brembo updates, I'll go with ATE at double price down under (AUD220 for a pair of Bosch Rotors; AUD440 for ATE; Genuine Mercedes from Dealer is around AUD650+ 😭- all 300mm/22mm rear rotors)
@@y2kdisease do remember to swap out the brake retaining pins aswell. They are about €15 in Germany as they can cause the dreaded brake judder if they get rusty.
I have just changed the discs and pads on my E400 Coupe, as you say its not a complicated job but still, watching your superb, easy to follow video gave me the confidence to tackle it. A big thank you for saving me a lot of money at the dealers. Just the rear to do now!
Thanks for those lovely comments - glad to have helped. Luckily for you there is one in how to do the rears on my channel aswell
Seen it,thank you@@mercedes_and_more
amazingly detailed, simple unlike some of the other videos ive seen on this matter. just speechless.. great video!
Thanks!!!
This is very good. No unnecessarily talking, just to the point. Perfect, thank you.
I will be one of many who will thank you for this video. Managed to change front discs & Pads with a bit of elbow grease on my E400... Forever grateful!
Been out of the trade for a few years, so always double check on YT to ensure i know what to expect - some videos are just poor and misleading - so thank you for a really good video - clear concise and detailed.
Thank for a lovely comment 👍
Thank you so much for taking the time to document and upload this guide. I've done plenty of brake jobs on my past vehicles, but none had a brake set up like the c class, so this helped me greatly. One of my pins was completely seized. Eventually, I had to cut the pin and drill it out and replace it.
So pleased to know I was able to help you. That’s exactly what the channel is about 👍
I drive a W213 E350d model in South Korea and after watching your video, I learned exactly how to replace brake discs. It was really helpful, thank you !
Thank you for your lovely comments - glad the video proved useful 👍
Thanks for that. It's time for new discs and pads. With this detailed video, I will be doing it myself. Thanks
You’re very kind, glad to be of help
What a great design that is much better than a floating caliper
I didn't have the caliper spreader tool so I simply loosened the brake caliper nipple to get rid of the pressure then hand pressed the brake pads back. Best to do a brake bleed after to get rid of air in then caliper and lines.
I finally got around to doing the front brakes on my C238 today, and one thing i didn't see in your video was that the two pins are actually held in place at the rear of the caliper by a thin 'wire' which threads through both of the pins, so I was trying my best to remove the pin before i had a closer look, it wouldn't budge as the wire was holding it in place, maybe this is not present on the W213, but it was on my C238, thanks again for the video it helped a lot !
Ok. Is yours a full fat AMG car (rather than an AMG Line)? My wife’s A238 cab is exactly the same as the video. Maybe someone put the wires on previously during a change or out caution?
mine is simply a E400 238 (not the cab), and I'm based in Sweden, it's a 2018 model and the only difference in the video and my car was that additional wire (on both sides), it looks like the part was from the factory as the center part of it fits in cleanly to a center hole, also, each pin had a hole for the wire to enter.
maybe my car has more horsepower than yours and that might explain it ?
@@ncbrady could be. Bit of a mystery!
Awsome walk through for this W213 rotor & pad change. Hopefully I will be able to do the same way. Thank you.
You’re very kind - thanks
Brilliant mate ive the same car and was quoted £500 pounds which I see is very expensive for such a easy job
That’s why i make the videos. Cars might have more computers but the mechanics are essentially still the same as 30 years ago! Glad it has/will help you.
Thanks for this video, I’ve got my self a E Class S212 and what a joy to own. Purchased a full set of OEM pads and discs and just about to fit them. I was wondering what tools I would need and here is my answer, thanks again for such an informative tutorial. 🏴
Very pleased you have found this useful 👌
what about the metal shim plate transfer? that's what the 3M Adhesive was for 17:28
The old brake disc on the video has abs like patern on the hub but the new ones does not? Will the car still have abs?
Not sure i quite understand the question?
Nice one ... from now I know how to easy change the brake pads :) The problem is I thought I will get new sensors with BREMBO brake pads. Can I use the old sensors? Im not changing brake discs yet. Should be ok.
No issues with reusing the old sensor if it’s not broken 👍. PS: do not use Brembo, go with ATE and ceramic pads. Brembo’s I fitted only last 10k km before warping.
Ah ok thanks ... I'll change next time with brake disc..
Great video!
Thanks, very pleased you found it helpful 👍
@@mercedes_and_more Will come in handy when I do mine. I can see the front brakes have only a little left before they touch the sensor, do you know the torque figures for the 21mm bolts on the caliper? Thanks.
@@Techtablets they should be 120nm
@@mercedes_and_more Thanks mate!
Hi, thank you for the video!
Which torque did you apply for fixing the caliper? Thx and have a nice Christmas.
Thank you, you too. Please follow the instructions in this video but ultimately 150nm:
th-cam.com/video/9R0QFTt7sU4/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
Good video as I need to do this job on my S205 Mercedes C Class, thank you
Glad it helped you. Most of the videos on here are equally applicable to the 205 series as they are essentially the same car apart from the rear of the rear axle 👍
I also nee to change the near side lower control arm do you have a video on this job? or at least have the torque settings for the nuts etc.@@mercedes_and_more
@@skippercaship Inside bolt is 90nm + 180deg. Steering knuckle joint is 220nm. I haven’t yet done it on my car as i have air suspension and the whole car needs to be off the ground and the suspension air bag deactivated by XEntry. Don’t forget that the bolts in the bushings need to be done up with the car on the ground so as not to wear out very prematurely. Ball joints can be torqued up when in the air.
2018 E43 owner here. I appreciate the look into how it is done on this car.
The method for your E43 is exactly the same but i think you might have an extra anti vibration pin holding the pads in place.
@mercedes_and_more thanks for the heads up! Not quite ready to replace but I have a kit from Powerstop lined up for the day it comes time. With your help, I might just do it myself.
@@Russpilot go for it 👍. When it works out then you can buy me a coffee.
@@mercedes_and_more will do! I have a new coffee company I support called coffee brand coffee. I'll send you a bag!
@@Russpilot I’ll look forward to that 😎
Great video thanks a lot but should we do release breaks pad from menu first as I sow many videos do it first for w213 thanks in advance
Hi, For the front no, but the rear’s Yes 👍. Glad you enjoyed the video and please subscribe for more content in the near future.
excellent video mate thanks, I'm no novice at car DIY but it's good to know what I'm in for, due to replace mine on my E300 very shortly.
Update - BREMBO brakes turned out to be a waste of money. Will never fit again. Replaced (already) and with ATE and with ATE ceramic pads (no brake dust!). Good luck
@mercedes_and_more what was wrong with the brembo brakes if you don't mind me asking?
@@Coco-ux8vw they warped (3mm!!) after 10k km (originals got to 95k km). No towing, no heavy braking. Took the wheel bearing’s with them due to the vibration. No answer/response from BREMBO customer care 🙁
@mercedes_and_more yeah that's not good, I'll stay clear of brembo.
Legend. Thank you so much for this great video
Great guidance! i will replace my 2018 e300 rotor and brakes soon. Where did you buy the rotors and pads?
Thanks. I bought from Autodoc but they are many alternatives. If you haven’t read the further comments do not buy brembo as they failed very quickly. I then went to ATE discs and ceramic pads. All good
Fantastic tutorial 👍
Thanks
Thanks for the instructions. Tomorrow I start doing mine.
Fantastic, good luck 👍
@@mercedes_and_more My front brakes are the floating type. So I used your instructions from the rear brakes ;-). One thing I however can't settle is the brake pad warning. I reset the warning with my scan tool but the warning comes back. Something wrong with the sensor? Have you any idea how this sensor works? Do I need it to push it in further?
@@devroonhof I’m glad you got there with changing them though. The sensor is a one time use item, so if it came on and that is why you are changing the brakes you’ll need to but a new sensor (about €12 from MB, about 3 to 5 from a motor factor). Sounds to me as though the sensor is broken?
@@mercedes_and_more Thanks. Didn't know that it is a 'one time use'.
The replacement of the disks was rather simple. Simpler than the change of the discs of my 1999 Defender....
Don't forget to tighten the little screw on the brake rotor ;-)
Yes it’s 15nm
Commented also but read somewhere that it might be one of the reasons some cars have vibration since when not flush with the rotor it doesn’t allow your wheel to seat properly
Nice tutorial! Are there any tips on removing caliper bolts? Since they are in the back and tightened with high torque. Thanks
You could turn the wheel for better access (assuming you have both off the ground. Personally i use a spanner and a “gentle” tap of a hammer if i can’t fit a breaker bar in
@@mercedes_and_more Many thanks
Great video. Great explanations.
Not quite sure what you mean by the system? Normally i use a brush (wearing a mask) to clean calipers, brush on a drill to clean high face. Brake cleaner at the end to ensure nothing left. Does that help?
Just a note , you do not need a special tool to push pistons back in . Just use a large screwdriver or lever and push the pistons back using the old pads to push against .
Agreed but having the correct tool means you don’t damage the pads if you are not replacing them 👍
I wonder if we need to do the brake reset and brake release when changing the front brake only
Sorry, don’t quite follow. Do you mean if you need to enable brake release mode? then you do not. That is only for the rear to release the handbrake 👍
Ok, brake pads changed in my E350 W212 .... second wheel in 10min but the first one omg i can't pull out one of those pins hahaha 😅 take me 1 hour to take this out ... use special screwdriver 🪛 and 3kg hammer 😂 ... done!
Usually change just front brake pads will take 20 min for me so pretty quick if all going well 😊
@@napalmet4ever that’s always the way in the reality of older cars. But at least you did it yourself so inner satisfaction!
As an update, the Brembo discs for this car now come dimpled rather than perforated. So don't be alarmed when you get them out of the box and think there's a fault or you've got the wrong discs! Apparently dimpled is superior to fully perforated. There's a few videos here explaining why. Tbh I doubt either make much difference on road cars for everyday driving anyway.
Well the ones i fitted in the video lasted 10k miles and warped taking the wheel bearings with them! Since swapped to ATE with ATE ceramic pads. 99% eliminated and steering wobble under braking.
@@mercedes_and_moreinteresting, I have a 4Matic C220d with a vibration starting slightly after 110 km/h and just can’t get where it comes from… calibrated the wheels, new tires, swapped with other wheels I bought and still the same. I also notice the screw that holds the disc was slightly standing off after you installed the disc… something got my attention on that screw when I swapped my wheels, have to double check that. Do you remember or noticed something on that on the other discs change?
Very informative video, thanks so much for sharing !
Glad you found it useful 👍
Muchas gracias por la información! Fue de enorme valor didactito ? (RJ Brazil)
That’s really useful, thank you very much for your efforts
Pleased if was helpful for you. 👍
Good day, after replacing the brakes, do they need to be bled or coded? thank you for the answer
If you have not disturbed the brake pipes then there is no need to bleed the system and no coding is required 👍
what is the tightening torque of the calipers for the front and rear please?
I can’t check right now but can have a look next week when I’m back from holiday 👍
@@mercedes_and_more
hello thank you very much for your answer it's really kind yes if it doesn't bother you I'm waiting for your return please forgive me for the inconvenience :-) see you soon
M12 bolts 120nm. If M14 bolts then 80nm + 45 deg. If an E53 model then 150nm + 45 deg
@@mercedes_and_more Thank you!
very nice video, thank you!
Love your video it’s helps a lot I’m trying to replace my brake pads but I would like to know your recommendation for a 2018 c43 amg. Akebono, brembo or power stop(name of the brand). And does it matter if I use two separate brand for the front and rear? Thank you
Thanks for the great comments. My BREMO disks only lasted 10k km and then warped. Am currently using ATE and so far so good. Also switched to ATE Ceramic pads at the front. Very little brake dust (as they advertise) so thoroughly recommended.
@@mercedes_and_more thank for your suggestion. By any chance do you know what type of socket I’ll need to take out my 18” 5 twin spoke wheel? It a 6 point sockets that’s hollow in the middle. I’ve test a 18mm 6 point sockets and it fits but I want to make sure it’s the correct one before I continue. Can’t seem to find the answer online. Thank you
@@NaireMindset is that by chance the locking wheel nut bolt? Otherwise the wheel bolts are 17mm for all wheel sizes? If it helps then email at the address on the channel “about” section a photo and i can then help you more.
Hi, thanks for the video. Do you know if the 2 caliper bolts need to be replaced as well? I remember when I was working on the rear brakes, one of the bolts broke while tightening on 60nm, I would like to avoid this happens while applying 120nm.
And the last question, I just got new ATE rotors, they came with a plastic yellow little screw that mounts the rotor to the bearing, I believe I should not be worried that the screw is plastic? Thanks for help.
Caliper bolts do not need to be renewed, just cleaned and new thread locker. I now have ATE discs and the plastic screw is very robust so don’t worry 👍👍
Thanks for your reply, very appreciated. I remember having read that on the little screw a thread lock should be aslo applied and was just wondering when I saw that plastic screw.., normally we do not apply a thread lock on plastic screws, if I am not wrong.
Hi l, I have just completed the job, all fine. I have been still thinking about the yellow plastic screw. The brakes do have to be resistant to high temperatures, just wondering if the plastic screw would not melt. What do you think? I woud feel better with the original or any metal screw if it fits. Worth to investigate maybe?
@DODIKUA it won’t melt. Trust me it’s a 100% solution 👌
By the way how do you lift the rear of the car in order to place stands? There is no central lifting point I believe.
Hi, if I use the central jacking point as you did, do I lift the car by engine or by chasis? I mean, is it connected to the chasis? Thanks.
It is basically part of the subframe bolted to the front chassis. I think the engine might be connected to this subframe but basically you are jacking the chassis not the engine 👍👍
Thanks for the video, If i was only changing pads once you pushed back the pistons and removed the old pads you could simply just put new pads in without having to remove the caliper. Would that be correct?
Yes, that’s absolutely correct, although you do need to clean any remnants of old pad 3M tape from the caliper pistons but there should be enough access 👍
@@mercedes_and_more Thanks for the quick response
@@darrenroustan1809 i just happened to be online
Great video
Great video...do you have access to the workshop manual for this car. I have a 2016 W205 and I would like to get a copy.
No i don’t but i find sort info on Forums, especially mbworld. Think you can get one as a full workshop manual download from Haynes. In the meantime you’ll just have to subscribe 😜
@@mercedes_and_more thanks much
Sehr informatives video. Eine frage habe ich noch. Kommt kein fett zwichen Radnabe und bremsscheibe?
Kein fett und 100% sauber. Kein rost - wei neu
Hi there, excellent video. I was trying to read the Brembo part number of the front disks but couldn't. I have visited Brembo's website but don't see a code/part number for front disks. Do you have that by anychance?
The part numbers are in the video description information. Please be aware though that the (retrospectively) i would not recommend fitting these discs. My front ones warped by 3mm after 10k miles (hence the video about replacing front wheel bearings). They were genuine ones. I have now fitted Autodocs ABS branded products and so far so good (and 33%) of the price of Brembo.
Amazing, great job 👏
Thanks. Glad you found it useful. Just don’t use Brembo or you’ll find yourself watching my wheel bearing video..
@@mercedes_and_more was it a bad brand? What do you recommend for aftermarket?
@@ramygalal8027 if you ares in U.K. i would recommend GSF’s own brand but i am not sure if they do them for this car with the sports park? I thought Brembo as the OE supplier for this car would be good but they failed after 10k Km and I am very gentle on my brakes. I have replaced them with a Dutch brand called ABS bought from AutoDoc. So far so good and brake feel is great. What’s the worse that can happen - the wear out at 10k km and I renew for €100??
Would u know the nm torque specs for the front and rear caliper bolts
They are 120Nm 👍 (with a bit of thread locker aswell)
@@mercedes_and_more that also for the w205 c63s amg 19+ model red callipers
@@TheLionInTheArea I can’t comment but as they are fundamentally the same brake (although I think the retaining pins are slightly different)and the bolts are the same size then it should be. Maybe ask on a dedicated AMG forum to check?
Any links for the wind back tool thanks
I bought mine via Amazon. Think they are all much of a muchness and all made in China! Mine cost about €20 (at the time) and think they are about the same in £’s. If you search with brake pad spreader ratchet you should get a selection of suitable tools 👍👍
And do have also too for de rear brake
I do have a video for the rear pads but not discs (although i do explain what you need to do to change the discs in that video) 👍
I don’t find those rotors, you wrote 09.D521.23 but I only found 09.D529.23
It’s a 9 instead of a 1 but I don’t know if it’s another rotor and you can’t be too careful when buying car parts!
Thanks!
Can’t really comment as i will have written the part number down from the box. That said, i find these brakes were terrible and they worried after 10k km. I replaced them with ATE and have had no issues 40k km later👍
@@mercedes_and_more thanks! I need to look them up, I found a good price on A.B.S rotors though but I don’t know what’s good or not!
@@brunodrakenas9575 ABS are ok, but based ATE make the OE and combined with ceramic pads for less brake dust (big difference) then that’s a winning value for money combo 💪
@@mercedes_and_more so those ATE rotors you bought and ATE ceramic pads is the way to go? Is ceramic pads compatible with non ceramic rotors 🤔
You need the same brand on rotors and pads?
@@brunodrakenas9575 ceramic pads are compatible with any brand of discs but their composition means they produce about 90% less dust. Don’t confuse with hyper expensive ceramic carbon disc 😳. The only downfall with ceramic pads is that they can seem to have lees bite (according to the marketing blurb) but honestly I couldn’t tell the difference but am generally quite light in my brakes (well before this car anyway)!
What are the torque specs?
Caliper bolts 120nm. Wheel bolts 150nm
Zentrieschraube=10nm , Schrauben Bremssattel an Achsschenkel M14=80nm + 45° oder wenn verbaut bei M12=120nm … darüber hinaus brauchst du den Deckel für die Bremsenflüssigkeit nicht öffnen, der Kolben lässt sich so zurückdrücken. Außer du hast die möglichkeit und das wissen zum entlüften, sonst droht Lebensgefahr. Im Bordcomputer ‘’ Bremsbelag wechsel ‘’ anwählen. Das Video ist vom amateur für naja..
@@GustavoGarcia_46thanks for your comments. Whilst you are free to comment as you wish (and I have not removed it, which I could) and just to show how much your opinion means, the change brake pad function is only for the rear brakes as this unlocks the hand brake. If you are in doubt then feel free to watch that video of mine, or indeed his to change the rear pads. Tschuß amateur.
120nm
Hi. Thanks for the video.
I've to do my pads on same car.. I was shopping around for pads that have less dust than factory. Are the brembo ones that you installed the actual factory replacement?? If not any better with dust?
Any help would be much appreciated...
Thanks for the positive comments. Despite appearances i generally try not to be too hard my brakes. I suspect the current wear is due to the fact we have done quite alot of towing. I think there is a little less dust with these than the original factory ones but it could be the dust is a little lighter. It’s certainly not any worse!
Thanks for that. Would you have the brembo part number for the pads?
I have added the details in the video description 👍👍
Great with explanation around each steps. Good video. Wear gloves though, i feel sorry for your hands, i can see you have cut yourself and its pretty easy to do when doing brakes.
@@Junaidddevil i normally do, but the trouble is being able still grip small parts. I don’t often do work or my cars like this so i generally take the one off hit 😬😬
SBC sistem off?
No. Just Jack the car up as you would normally 👍👍
Brilliant video, do you have to use copper grease? Don't feel like buying for for £13 for using a pea size once haha
Thanks. I don’t know if you must but it should eliminate sqeaking. That said I’ve had my tube for years. As an after-note do not use Brembo brakes. The ones i fitted in this video later 5 months (10k km) and warped. Since replaced by Autodoc’s own brand label!
Hey, did you fully solve the wabbleling while braking problem? I have the same problem and changed the brake discs 3 times already and they all did arownd 8/10k km
Yes and No. I now know that every making surface needs to be wire wheeled to make it look like new before putting the disc on the hub and the wheel on the disc. Also tightening the wheels to 20, 75 and then 150 nm must be followed. My Brembo discs warped after 10k but ATE are doing excellently after 50k and fitting ceramic pads really does keep down brake dust. That said I stop here a wobble from 55 to 50 kph but no other speed! Replacing the totally knackered suspension components made no difference.
@@mercedes_and_more did it make any Diference after changing the wheel bearings?
@jonhdoe6260 no it didn’t. The only thing that changed was a decrease in dB’s from the front wheels 😂
@@mercedes_and_morewire wheeled?
@jotapitas yes. Wire wheel the hub of replacing the rotor/disc. If just replacing the pads the wire wheel where the disc/road wheel mating surface 👍
Hi. your happy with Brembo Disc. I must change my disc too but i dont no Brembo or ZImmerman?
No, i am not happy with Brembo. They warped after 10k km. I now use ATE. Zimmermann are very good in my experience.
@@mercedes_and_more thank you very much. If you look the price of brembo compare too zimmerman 😅 its say many words.
Do i have to sand the break disk?
No you do not. The coating wears off as soon as you start breaking 👍
Never knew they were Brembo brakes?? They're easier to change.. Strange it's just 1 screw to hold on the brake disc?? Thought Mercedes would have put 2 screws opposite each other..
Amazing, thank you so much!
You’re welcome
Part number for paste?
Honestly no idea as i just use a tube that i bought at my local motor factor shop. Should just be able to get on eBay/amazon etc
I replaced mine twice and they keep warping after 600/700 miles. Any idea what it could be? I replaced them with OEM genuine mercedes pads and discs
I’m sorry to hear that. I would suggest taking it all apart and absolutely cleaning all surfaces to within an inch of the life. Also, if you didn’t, then also replace the two pad retraining pins in the caliper. Also, have tighten the nuts to 20nm (with the wheel in the air), then 75nm with it just touching the floor to do it moving, then 120nm and then finally wheel on the ground upto 150nm. If it’s any consolation then mine wobble at 55 to 50 kph but not any other speed so…..
Thanks for your reply. When replacing them, i never torqued them to spec as i never done that for any other car i owned. Another merc texh has advise the same. I appreciate your advice but so you really think they can easily get warped if not torqued to spec?
@@mateenj97 i only found this info out after I’d made the video (is in a video in the playlist). I think if you take apart and re-do you’ll probably be ok. Got to be (financially) worth a go?
Definitely. Will give it a try next week at some point. I need to order a torque wrench and try
@@mateenj97 hey, have you already solved this problem? I have the same isseue with my w213 AMG.
I have already replaced 3 sets of discs and pads without success
hi, what size are the discs?
They are 342mm wide. I think the non sport cars are 330mm (but not 100% sure).
Hi, thanks for this great video! What torque did you use for the 2 caliper bolts?
If i remember correctly it is 90 Nm 😱
I think 120 Nm
Hello,
I did factory reset on the dealer menu and whole system option changed.
Can somebody share me system backup file? plsss
Super thanks
can you please add an ebay link to the spreader you used in this video ? thanks again
It was actually on Amazon. The one i bought is no longer available but this one under a different name it’s still available. I’ll put a link in the video description
I have to much Nois from 20-0 km brembo w213
Hallo i have the Same Problem.
Its very noise.
Did you solved the problem and how did you solve it?
@alpaytuna9964 do you mean steering wobble? 99% solved with new discs pads (since changed again to ATE as BREMBOs warped), making every surface spotless, and following the workshop procedure for wheel tightening (there is an ATE video at this in my Mercedes playlist) 👍
I have yet to find a video actually showing somebody loosening the caliper bolts. For some reason (😇) nobody shows how hard (or easy?) it is to get them turning, especially in the tight wheel well. 😂
BTW: don't use copper paste on brakes with aluminum parts. You will get corrosion on the aluminum. Nowadays just use ceramic paste, which is suitable for all types of brakes and materials.
I don’t think i showed undoing them because space is tight to film and do the job. You definitely normally need a long bar for the initial leverage. I’ve just done my sons Ford focus this weekend and they are tightened to 173Nm!!
Terrible audio
Is possible to put disc that is for amg sport paket car on avantgarde model?? TnQ
No, the brake disc is smaller on Avantgarde cars and the caliper floats (like the rear one). In theory you could upgrade to the AMG Line one of the caliper bolts are in the same place (but i don’t know if they are).
@@mercedes_and_more i think the same thanks for confirming, then normal disc , i dont know shpuld i go for ceramic or normal pada
@defacto8408 i am now using ATE ceramic pads. Very little dust and they have really good feel when breaking. Thoroughly recommend 👍
@@mercedes_and_more Thanks very much for your updates and vids. I was considering cheaping out on my non-AMG line E300 and going for bosch rotors. After seeing your wheel bearing vid, and your Brembo updates, I'll go with ATE at double price down under (AUD220 for a pair of Bosch Rotors; AUD440 for ATE; Genuine Mercedes from Dealer is around AUD650+ 😭- all 300mm/22mm rear rotors)
@@y2kdisease do remember to swap out the brake retaining pins aswell. They are about €15 in Germany as they can cause the dreaded brake judder if they get rusty.
Excellent video. Appreciated.