for lining up your holes between all the layers look into a set of transfer punches... or just stick your bolts in the hole and hit them with a hammer to make a mark piece you need to drill
That would be a nice option, especially for hand-made builds. It might be difficult in some of the tighter curves in the board, but maybe something like a chamfer finger plane
I use a handheld router and round it over. Roundover never quite gets the concave right before the nose, so I take it to the inflatable drum. I would like to get a shaper and a jig like yours to make this process more refined not sure what flush bit is best for this. Learning as I go.
I'm still working up the guts to cut my deck! I need to increase the wheelbase all the while, switched nose to the tail & vice versa. I don't mind a slightly smaller nose and steeper tail so 🤷
Here in Italy finding maple is really hard so searching online on italian forums and I found out that combining ash wood, which is stiffer, and birch the result should be pretty good.
not a shaper but a small game woodworker here : with a template that far off of you blank you will need a hell of a long router bit to link both template and blank. Also don't see how that is faster or more reliable than simple carboard/thin mdf jig for drawing the shape and bandsaw to release it. Then the next step is CNC, i'll have to check but a longboard on a 2k$ shapeoko 3 XXL is not totally absurd. EDIT : forgot to tell but the 4 parts on the dim pressing of a board got me here, very good how to, now subscribed.
Yeah, it would definitely require a tall, bearing-top bit, probably with a 1/2" shaft to handle the lateral forces. Using a template like this means I don't have to trace or transfer a shape every time, it means I don't really have do much thinking at all outside of safety awareness. I run the template along a bearing guide on the bandsaw, then through the profiling bit on a router table and I should be good to go. Mental effort is definitely part of the labor costs when you do big runs of the same part, it can get real tedious if you don't take that in to account.
@@GoodRoads a tall bit for sure but 1/4 shaft is more than enough to handle that! I'm a carpenter and also make board and I can tell you a 1/4 shaft is the best way to go as it doesn't cut to wide, it takes less force to cut through your wood, look up for yonico bits on amazon they are amazing
I'm really not a fan of using glass or CF. Just the whole process of using composites I find unpleasant. And also all the consumables you go through if you're to do it really the right way, I just find that waste distasteful. I also feel like in most cases what you're achieving with composites can be had with just wood if a little extra care is taken. Exotic veneers are fun, but for me a little hard to get reasonably. My favorite though has go to be countertop Formica, which is especially nice since I've got access to as much scrap as I've been able to use.
I'm so glad I found your channel!!! But I also have a lot of questions! It would be great if you create a discord or telegram channel. Please create a community!!! Also, it would be great if you create a tutorial for a more common and standard deck design, like an 8 inch mid concave... Keep up with the amazing work!!!
I know after you found out that the 3D printed pieces you made didn't quite work, so then ya glued em? And from experience, U have to have @least 3 truck bolts, really 4 to get it perfect and won't move. Factory bolt🕳🕳 aren't always perfect
Inflatable drum sander for sure bro! Nice video
love seeing the channel get bigger!
Well played, sir!
Great video. Going to give this a shot soon.
Good luck! Let me know how it turns out!
I really really like your videos and explanations. Thank you!!
for lining up your holes between all the layers look into a set of transfer punches... or just stick your bolts in the hole and hit them with a hammer to make a mark piece you need to drill
Edge chamfer plane, it's used in wood working
That would be a nice option, especially for hand-made builds. It might be difficult in some of the tighter curves in the board, but maybe something like a chamfer finger plane
I use a handheld router and round it over. Roundover never quite gets the concave right before the nose, so I take it to the inflatable drum. I would like to get a shaper and a jig like yours to make this process more refined not sure what flush bit is best for this. Learning as I go.
Me too homes. I've got a domed router guide thing in the works that I'm hoping will make it easier to get into all the little curves
@@GoodRoads Domed router guide? Are you Diying it? I have seen them in pics before and never quite knew if that was the purpose! You should post it.
@@johndoh8711 100% will when it's done!
This is awesome, glad it's working out so well!
So glad I found your channel! Very excited for the next video!
I'm still working up the guts to cut my deck! I need to increase the wheelbase all the while, switched nose to the tail & vice versa. I don't mind a slightly smaller nose and steeper tail so 🤷
Keep'm coming😊
lol i was looking forward to seeing it work on a router table
I got a new router for Christmas, so we'll get that router table working at some point for sure
Here in Italy finding maple is really hard so searching online on italian forums and I found out that combining ash wood, which is stiffer, and birch the result should be pretty good.
Same problem here in Australia. How did you go with the ash and birch? Cheers
ash or Esche in Deutschland, that’s the best tensile strength along the grain for sure
Thank you for the content. I love it
not a shaper but a small game woodworker here : with a template that far off of you blank you will need a hell of a long router bit to link both template and blank. Also don't see how that is faster or more reliable than simple carboard/thin mdf jig for drawing the shape and bandsaw to release it.
Then the next step is CNC, i'll have to check but a longboard on a 2k$ shapeoko 3 XXL is not totally absurd.
EDIT : forgot to tell but the 4 parts on the dim pressing of a board got me here, very good how to, now subscribed.
Yeah, it would definitely require a tall, bearing-top bit, probably with a 1/2" shaft to handle the lateral forces. Using a template like this means I don't have to trace or transfer a shape every time, it means I don't really have do much thinking at all outside of safety awareness. I run the template along a bearing guide on the bandsaw, then through the profiling bit on a router table and I should be good to go. Mental effort is definitely part of the labor costs when you do big runs of the same part, it can get real tedious if you don't take that in to account.
@@GoodRoads a tall bit for sure but 1/4 shaft is more than enough to handle that! I'm a carpenter and also make board and I can tell you a 1/4 shaft is the best way to go as it doesn't cut to wide, it takes less force to cut through your wood, look up for yonico bits on amazon they are amazing
@@Vermzz129 Thanks for the tip! I'll check them out
I'd like to see a video with more shots of the deck itself.
I do tend to forget b-roll, I'll try to keep that in mind. Next week's video is going to have tons of close-ups as I add art to the board
Now let's cast trucks ahahahah
I 100% want to do this. I've got the plan, I just need the funds for the equipment.
Messed around much with other materials for the top/bottom sheets yet?
I supposed you would have done UHMW with your snowboard/snowskate builds.
On skate decks I've done some exotic veneers and glass cloth, nothing too crazy
I'm really not a fan of using glass or CF. Just the whole process of using composites I find unpleasant. And also all the consumables you go through if you're to do it really the right way, I just find that waste distasteful. I also feel like in most cases what you're achieving with composites can be had with just wood if a little extra care is taken.
Exotic veneers are fun, but for me a little hard to get reasonably.
My favorite though has go to be countertop Formica, which is especially nice since I've got access to as much scrap as I've been able to use.
I'm so glad I found your channel!!! But I also have a lot of questions! It would be great if you create a discord or telegram channel. Please create a community!!! Also, it would be great if you create a tutorial for a more common and standard deck design, like an 8 inch mid concave... Keep up with the amazing work!!!
I'm definitely going to do a standard deck mold and open source it. A discord is a good idea too, I've been thinking about something like that
@@GoodRoads nice!!! can't wait to see it!
I know after you found out that the 3D printed pieces you made didn't quite work, so then ya glued em? And from experience, U have to have @least 3 truck bolts, really 4 to get it perfect and won't move. Factory bolt🕳🕳 aren't always perfect
I’d buy a deck