Arduino brushed motors DRONE - Part3 - it finally flies
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มิ.ย. 2024
- Best & Fast Prototype ($2 for 10 PCBs): www.jlcpcb.com
Thanks to JLCPCB for supporting this video.
Please watch the entire intro of the video. I expalin a bit the process and improvements for the drone. Below you have the files that work if you want to build your own. Thank you!
Help my projects on Patreon: / electronoobs
my Q&A page: electronoobs.com/eng_preguntas...
Canal en Español: / electronoobs en español
--------------------------------------------------------------------
PROJECT LINKS
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Working brushed drone: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
Working drone part list: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
Working drone transmitter code: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
Working drone receiver code: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
For the PCB:
Transmitter video: • Arduino drone - Part2 ...
Tutorial webpage: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
Part list: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
Schematic: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
3D drone body: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
Multiwii code: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
MPU6050 test code: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
NRF24 test code: www.electronoobs.com/eng_ardui...
iforced2D channel: • Data telemetry with Mu...
PRINTERS
-------------------------------------
Ender 3(167€): www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
SparkMaker SLA: www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
Crealitu CR10: www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
Coupon code: "11CR10EU" or "11CR10US"
ANET E10 (219$): www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
Coupon code: "Anete10us"
TEVO Tarantula (175$): www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
Coupon code: "Tarantulaus"
Creality CR10 MINI: www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
COUPON: CR10MINI
Anet A8: www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-...
Coupon code: "A8KIDA"
Like share and subscribe to motivate me. Thank you - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The most interesting parts are where you went wrong. Thanks for making the files open.
I love it, that you show and explain the problems you have to solve during the creation of your projects.
you dont know man how much we love u 💙 as a fun of u and ur really amazing projects 😁
Many thanks finally wait is over ... Many thanks for great hard work and take many times to make this I'm always happy when you make new project ...
This is awesome! Nice job my friend 😀
When I started my own arduino brushed drone, I got inspired by you plenty of times. Thank you so much for that. As soon I reachead the same Stage as you in the Vid, I tried to avoid these motor spikes by writing a sequenze for the motors to start, pressed by a button from the controller. I Still have some problems to fly, but this helped me a lot.
Great work again!
love you electronoobs
Just awesome
Waiting for mini drone complete project!!!!
great work bro :))
Use a diode to reduce the back emf spikes it has a weight negligible to that of the capacitor and connect it in reverse polarity to actual polarity of motor to make a conductive path for the current to flow from the motor
Ur background of video is awesome( i mean the circuit boards) 👌
lovely videos mate
Awesome video !!
Keep up the good work.
Want to help my workshop: www.patreon.com/ELECTRONOOBS
Thank you so much!
I am guessing that inductive loads(i your case are 4 motors) are intrudcing a lot of ripple or noise to your battery and 5v requirement is not completely being built up for atmega 328p so i recommend you to use a 5 v boost convertor for atmega328p and 3.3v ldo to get enough of 5 volts and IP5310 based boost converor would be perfect application for your case as it also includes charging protocol for li-ion battery.
That's a cool Arduino project. Getting the bang for the buck would involve testing motors and props to see which ones will give you the most lift with the least amount of energy consumed.
It might be a good idea to directly measure the lift of the original motors, and the lift of the new motors. That will give you a better estimation if your changes will be enough for flight, or if you’ll need to make additional modifications.
The radiomodule can consume up to 350 mA, as i remember. So maybe voltage regulator causes problems because it's not powerfull enough.
Motors are creating a lot of electrical niose. Also they provide feedback voltage when PWM signal goes low. This may cause arduino to reset itself. Instead of puting big capacitor on arduino power supply try to put small capacitors and diods between contaacts of each motor. Capacitors will reduce the noise and diodes will protect arduino from feedback voltage.
Also it is aa good practice to put small capacitors on battery output and output of voltaage regulator.
Thanks for the video. I've been waiting for it!)
Great work, still can't sleep....
awesome project
Lovely drone.
I have usually lots of question and you answer them with your each video.
keep it going man :) nearly there.
you should consider upgrading the motors, it will increase costs but if it flies you have a working drone :)
if you want to add any other components (ie: camera, frame) then you would rather have more power than less.
Atmega328p @8mhz can run anywhere from 2.7 to 5.5v stable, perfect for lipo.
I really love your vedios. More grace sir
I have a tip for you:- use bigger but light 3d printed propellers.
In 3d printers you can lower the density of the material and leave air spaces between the propeller
Awesome got new thing to learn😊
Your videos are great! When can we expect part 4?
I think you should use two small battery separate for motor and the chip. It will solve the resetting and voltage drop problem
Also you can use esp8266 instead of nrf and atmega320p. It has built in wifi so it will also reduce weight.
As what I can see from the video is that the front side of the drone is that where nrf24l01 is soldered. According to that the black propeller at front right must rotate in anticlockwise direction. Similarly all the propellers are moving in apposite direction.
Change the direction of propeller and it will definitely fly.
I agree that there's something funny about the motors. It isn't just a matter of there not being enough power. Also, that battery probably weighs more than it should for those small brushed motors.
Excellent
Not sure if anyone suggested it: AP2112K for the 3V3, they are used on the adafruit huzzah boards with the esp8266 modules on them, have a low drop out and can deliver up to 600mA iirc. also try using some caps on the 3v3 side, so it can compensate power loss on that side too. And please get a flux pen :) maybe don't use a lot of copper fills as well.
What did you use for controlling the motors? Some specific motor-controller or just transistors/mosfets and PWM? If so, which mosfets did you use? As far as I can tell, those motors has a stall maximum current of 2A, so I guess any transistors that can handle up to 2A should work fine? Thanks!
If the geared motors have more lift, why not make some solderpads on each corner of the drone to solder a short length of metal rod and then attach the geared parts to that. This way you have more lift and you can have a heavier drone itself.
You are a genius
Buck converter for your 3.3 volts larger tracks from the battery to and from the buck converter or to test add copper wire on the tracks this will stop voltage drop remove large capacitor you don't need it then add 0.1Uf ceramic caps to each motor across the terminals and 0.1uf from the positive input terminal on each motor to the motor case this will sheld motor noise to the radio de-couple any long tracks from the microcontroller to the motor board try 0.1 ceramic caps the tracks look small to me use big tracks if you can if you cant use big tracks get your board made with more copper!! your cheap motors are a major problem as the body will be made from steel due to the magnets this is why brushless motors made of aluminium are used. good luck and love your channel your videos are very good and you explain it all so well.
nice video
Nice bro
Hi Electronoobs, why not try using a lighter/smaller lipo for initial test just to make sure how much weight you need to drop to ensure liftoff and decent flight.
I've done that but I thonk that the propellers are still too small for this weight.
@@ELECTRONOOBS Can u plz help me
Phone number and whatsapp:6239465569
Instagram:sunil_kumar__105
Hi, I can suggest that you decrease the dimension of motor arms as well running between main board and motor holder resulting in more weight loss of PCB itself, bringing components closer to the atmega will also give a good CG support
Can u plz help me
Phone number and whatsapp:6239465569
Instagram:sunil_kumar__105
Hello, is this code suitable for the brushed esc? I saw this is used for brushless esc. Aren't any different between brushed and brushless ESC ?
The avr chip works fine with 3.7v input...your only problem is the input to nrf24l01 chip. I had the same problem and I got around it by dropping the input voltage using a siplme 1n4007 diode. For the lift problem there exists longer propellers which output more upward thrust..you should use those
I'm looking forward to this project, And when I finish my current project (An 8-Bit Computer) I will maybe design my own drone idk...
Oh and a few tips: I recommend you not to remove the ground plane, it protects the signal traces from rf interferences, but you can remove A LOT of PCB, the PCB is WAY too big for that little drone, also, reducing the size of the arms is a good idea just leave the absolute necessary space for the traces and let less mass of thrust to be blocked by the motor , I would the transistor and the diode into the PCB body not on the arms so they don't create so much inertia. Also for stability purposes, The acc/gyro chip needs to be at the center of mass as exactly as possible that's more important than put the uC in the center.
Have a great day :D
Keep on broo
Red motors are running faster than black
That is causing it to rotate CCW
(counter clock wise).
What file name for upload to arduino for working project??receiver or multywii+nrf24...?? Cause to much code for this schematic
@@jeefryarcs
I want the PCB board l want to use it to make a project
@@afoerinwajuliana3367 why to me??
Such a great video bro👍
I have a question for you, does the drone compatible with multiprotocol module for the transmitter?
Hii
Can i know what the program that used in your computer that you checked the position and angle of the drone
You mentioned in the video the price of the components,can you recommend any online store one could get those?
Great video tutorial electronoobs! May I know how the PID values are set for the flight controller? Did you obtain the PID values from multiwii itself or through trial and error?
This is hella scripted. Guy was just guessing throwing capacitors at it
Awesome
I think hot glue might be a bit too heavy aswell, and if you make the next PCB a bit bigger maybe you can fit bigger propellers on, maybe with more pitch too (then you're back at the gear problem though). Also a 2S LiPo should give you a bit more power, just make sure your motors and other components are fine with the higher voltage.
Have you tried to block with a 47u tantal and 100n next to the radio module and mcu?
Maybe an rc filter can help blocking spikes from locations, that have no chance to work with them.
Are there bigger propellers available?
The spinning direction is false. Opposite propellers have to spin in same direction, because they have to cancel out the rotating drift of the drone with a force through the weigt center of the drone.
Hey Man , not sure if i saw properly but did you connected the high voltage to LDO output ? if so you are shortcuting power rails ( pcb/ldo/componnents damage also power waste as a bonus :) ) ping me if you need any help with power conections , i can review it.
If weight were the main problem, then it would spool up and not move. Yours is spinning in a circle, indicating one or more of the props are spinning in the wrong direction OR the rpm of the props is significantly off either due to malfunctioning motors or the controller is doing it on purpose for some reason. Also I'm sure you know those small DC motors are only designed to spin in one direction, yes? The wire colors indicate if it is a clockwise or counterclockwise motor.
timjs1018 Yep, I totally agree with you, I had the same feeling watching how the drone rotates on the z-axis, It looks like if a diagonal couple of motors is spinning more than the other
timjs1018 really? i thought coreless motors can spin in both ways
Weight is the main problem. It has more but that makes the drone not to fly. It spins in a circle because: since it won¡t lift, the PID gets bigger and bigger on one side. Motors are spinning in the good direction and propellers as well. I will have to try bigger propellers and less weight. Thanks!
Electronoobs
I disagree with your assessment. If the controller were operating properly, it would spin the motors at the required rate to achieve the target yaw rate. If you're NOT telling it to yaw, but it IS anyways, there's a controller problem OR the motors are not responding in the way the controller expects them to.
It seems you have a yaw control problem as well as too much weight. Either way, I hope you figure it out, this is a great project!
Shut da hell up
Yes. They can but the brushes are directional and wont last long running "against the grain" so to speak.
Sir, I have a question...
which Software are you using in the video. Can you please tell the name of that software?
thanks...
La de canutos que me pegaba en ese parque del clot (2:24) hace 3 años! Que recuerdos, que random que lo encuentre por aqui
Hey, how does the sterring system work? Do you like add 5% more power on the back rotors to go forward or what?
Cool video.
1) There looks like a lot of circuit board real estate that is not being used. How about reducing the weight by cutting out most of the center of the board?
2) The board is wide in the area of the propellers. The propellers are working to blow on the board, where energy is lost by a change of direction. And there is probably with a bit of turbulence. How about making the for arms on separate boards that solder onto the main board? Or, have no main board, but just two boards attached as a cross shape.
Question: You awesomely used solder paste to attach the processor. Why didn't you solder all the passive components the same way. Your killing me Smalls. :)
Hey I saw lot of quadcopter receiver boards I've noticed 1 thing. There is vcc gnd clock and data connections on back of all boards can I connect mpu6050 or 6000 gyroscope and accelerometer module to it if in case my gyro chip is broken
I think the problem is at the motors because i have seen some drones that the 2 motors for example the two with the black prop., turn clockwise and the red one's turn anticlockwise for better balance, i think, but in your drone they all turn the same direction.😊
What's the range after using NRF module and also can we replicate transmitter circuit
S12302 MOSFET is not available in my country
so, which mosfet will suitable for this?
Great video! I was wondering, I have just been getting into CNC milling my own copper PCBs as a hobby and would love to try out the board tracing you have for the smaller green drone with green PCB controller. I already checked your links but would you be willing to share your .BRD file with me so I may try fabricating my own board?
One thing you could do is remove some material from your circuit board. That is one great big hunk of copper and phenolic and you probably don't need all of it. Maybe add some holes along the struts and towards the middle to drop some weight. Another thing might be to rework your circuit so that more of the heavy stuff is toward the center for better balance. Finally, if you're designing your own board, add the components for your add-on modules and get rid of the extra weight from those pcbs.
So why exactly are you using those small props? Are the motors maxing out with bigger ones and without a gearbox? If you chose the props just for geometry, try a tri-blade with about the same size. Or similar props with a steeper pitch.
Other than that, the nrf24 module is great, but a pain in the butt when it comes to powering it. It doesn't like to be underpowered, but overpowering it might kill it. Ask me how I know :D
Anywayz, thanks for the video, these projects that 'almost work' can become quite frustrating...
Edit: The center part of the PCB does not look too tightly packed. I think you can save quite a bit of weight there in the next revision.
Did you work with andruav 3g telemetry with mission Planner ?
you can make a new pcb with mpu6050 & nrf24l01all in one pcb.
I don't know what size of motor you are using but use 8.5 x 20mm (820) size motor. The quad was spinning in one direction(cc) while starting it seems like cc motor are spinning faster even if they are getting the same pulse. These motor some time do that, lower the pwm signal in the cc motor & check if it's stop spinnig.
Why don’t you remote the quadcopter with your nRF24L01 RC controller? Or the nRF24L01 sketch is useless?
Tests aren’t useless every test (milestone) every test brings you closer victory !😃👍
I followed each and every step that you have shown but there is a problem...While I am increasing the throttle....on two motors are running...other two are not...please help
Cool!!! Are you planning on making brushless motors?
Some dc motors does not spin as well in both directions. It seems like the motors spinning counter clockwise spin better than those who spin clockwise, as the quad spins around when trying to lift off. Don't know what you could do about it though. Keep it up!
I also tried but this motor needed more voltage and appropriate driver, But I will make it happen it will take some times. Thanks for your videos
Can you use the 180 motor instead of coreless motor????
Hey sir I made this drone but with big and high rpm dc motors and as.per tge cpnnections but when I send data to the reciever from the transmitter it recieves for some time but after some its lost. I have configured the drone with multiwii win gui 2.2, and also set the correct pid value please reply🙂🙂
The multiwii show me that my transmitteur is working and same thing with gyro but the motors diden't even work what should be the problem here ?
Hlo sir
Plz tell me which transistor u r using ans which diode to power motor
Very nice... Think you shuld try with smaller LIPO....something like 250mah....300 max. Good luck and BR
Nice Chanel thanks brother, i support you Chanel
Dude....i waited a long time for this...awesome....can you take apart an esc and replicate it please..
hii..my motor does'nt stop when 0% and not full speed while100% throtle. what should i do? i using SI2302 mosfet.
I love this guy I've shared your video my family and friends and they loved it😍😍 sometime I'd try supporting you in your Patreon but my question is that if I add a barometric sensor do i also need to code it and can I use any other n channel MOSFET
Sir i do not have MPU 6050 what else can i use to do the receiver
-I believe you should fix the centre of gravity, the nrf module is not centered on the pcb,
-Use bigger propellers.
-Replace the battery with lighter one if possible
What LDO did you switch to?
you need to use another motor with gears.
for the supply try to add titanium cap. and you may also need to make that battery 2s instead 1s to increase the voltage.
Can u plz help me
Phone number and whatsapp:6239465569
Instagram:sunil_kumar__105
Hi please what is the solution to control a Submarine based with an Arduino wirelessly and if the radio control works underwater
I would recommend a smaller battery with a high c rating ( the C rating is important)
I tried to make a fully Arduino based drone using multiwii as like u but the multiwii is very unstable as two diagonally situated motor's speed increases automatically when all the yaw pitch roll axis input are at middle position that is 1500
I am totally in sad
my multiwii not working.
an error 'a fatel error is detected by java runtime environment' what can I do .
I want to order the same drone shape pcb u made how do I do it?
I made a brushed drone as you told in the other tutorial. The tutorial where the body of drone is make with barbeque sticks and when I gave throttle the Arduino in reciever gets reset when I reach half throttle . Can anyone tell me where should I connect the positive wire coming from battery to which pin of the Arduino in the receiver
Please help
How can I contact you I need your help
I think your biggest problem here is that the motors vibration affect your gyro/accel readings. You have no soft separation between MPU module and motors.
You didn't have such a big problem with the bigger drone because it had long wooden arms that were damping the motors' vibrations. But with this tiny solid frame the vibrations hugely affect the gyro and your stabilization algorithm goes crazy causing the drone to jump and spin. You can see that most brushed frames have some sort of rubber dampeners for the motors.
Singing video faking video
Parts assemble project respect cool speed percent smart earned this are the maximum
Replace the "arms" with wooden sticks just for testing to reduce weight. Also a bigger battery (and especially higher C rating one) will actually make it fly with more power, since I doubt a 150mah battery can push enough amps. Maybe thats the problem? I have small motors with 65mm props ant when I connect it to a battery they push a lot of air, no problem getting 60g of drone into the air. So a simple solution, make longer "arms" for bigger propellers and use a bigger battery.
Can I use an Arduino nano in place of Arduino pro mini
When 's the new follow up video comming
how can i stablize my drone ?? gyroscope is it availbale with arduino system
Hola amigo estoy comenzando con la electrónica, este proyecto del mini dron lo tienes en español ?
Y deseo ver tus vídeos desde el principio ! desde el numero 1