Installer code 4 allows you to pick which thermistor (temperature probe) is used for the wired controller. It defaults to using the wired controller, but you can also use the IDU return sensor (the one in the ceiling cassette). There is also an option to use the higher (cooling)/lower (heating) value of both sensors.
How about the remote button sensor? I’m about to install because according to the lg app the room is about 10 degrees warmer than it is. But it seems to adjust because it gets temp within 5 or 6 degrees of actually temp. Still not satisfied with thermistor in ceiling cassette.
Good Recommendation on using wired remote with the LG heat pump system. I installed an LG - LMU480HV with three heads mid - 2016 that has provided reliable heating and cooling for near eight years (knock on wood). Somewhere around year three or four I installed wired remotes for each head to provide more reliable and predictable temperature control - problem solved! I use our system a lot for heating in late fall and early spring, for tempering yearly propane usage. If I run individual heads on set fan speeds of low, medium, or hi, in heating mode w/sub freezing temps the outdoor unit will enter defrost mode fairly regularly. However, the defrost mode of the outdoor unit can be greatly reduced if I set each head fan speed to AUTO. This above scenario I never noticed when utilizing the remotes, it was only after utilizing the wired remotes. In the AUTO fan speed mode the room temps are still maintained, but the system seems prioritize heads, fan speed, and thus amount of heat.
Thanks for sharing your experience. The behavior you described - with the defrost mode changing based on the type of remote you are using - is the type of thing we found frustrating. It's hard to tune it to the way you want when you can't figure out what it's doing in the first place. For us with 10' ceilings we found the interior fan has to run at pretty high speed to get even heating down at people height. So we've mostly switched to electric resistance heating (see video's about warmstep mats) and find that a lot better despite the fact it will probably cost more. The miin-split will be great for cooling in the summer when we want cool air to sink but it just doesn't seem to work well for heating.
You mean the wired thermostat? I wasnt' going to make another video about just that one. There is a part in this video in the middle about where it plugs into the PCB. Otherwise I think it comes with instructions about all the installer functions that you can set however you like. But if you have a specific question I can try to help. It's worth noting that we ultimately decided against using the mini-split for heating since it had to run all the time at high fan speed to get adequate heat down at people level.
To be honest we really don't like it for heating. The main problem is that the inside fans have to run at a pretty high speed to get the heat down low enough. Since mini-splits don't produce as hot of air they have to run more too so you feel like it's constantly blowing air that's not all that warm. We ended up putting electric heating under floor mats in and like that a lot better (check out Thermosoft videos). The mini-split was fine during cooling season so that's probably all we'll use it for.
Thanks for the reply. I'm building a small house for my daughter and was thinking about mini splits. I was afraid that would be your answer. I was also thinking about radiant heat in the floor. I'm not sure what the answer is. We're in MO in not sure where you are but the winters can get a little cold here. I'll check out the other video right now. (My wife's maiden name, Beckham.)
We're in a part of CA where it does get below freezing overnight, but only for a few hours. If you're in the mid-west with long cold winters I think you really won't like it. If we could do it over I'd install radiant pipes in the slab and heat the water with an air-to-water heat pump. Alternatively you could heat it with a wood-fired outdoor boiler if electricity costs are a concern.
This is the manual for the wired remote. It has a table with all the settings. lghvac.com/resource-service?filename=IM_SimpleRemoteController_PREMTC00U.pdf
Installer code 4 allows you to pick which thermistor (temperature probe) is used for the wired controller. It defaults to using the wired controller, but you can also use the IDU return sensor (the one in the ceiling cassette). There is also an option to use the higher (cooling)/lower (heating) value of both sensors.
How about the remote button sensor? I’m about to install because according to the lg app the room is about 10 degrees warmer than it is. But it seems to adjust because it gets temp within 5 or 6 degrees of actually temp. Still not satisfied with thermistor in ceiling cassette.
Good Recommendation on using wired remote with the LG heat pump system. I installed an LG - LMU480HV with three heads mid - 2016 that has provided reliable heating and cooling for near eight years (knock on wood). Somewhere around year three or four I installed wired remotes for each head to provide more reliable and predictable temperature control - problem solved! I use our system a lot for heating in late fall and early spring, for tempering yearly propane usage. If I run individual heads on set fan speeds of low, medium, or hi, in heating mode w/sub freezing temps the outdoor unit will enter defrost mode fairly regularly. However, the defrost mode of the outdoor unit can be greatly reduced if I set each head fan speed to AUTO. This above scenario I never noticed when utilizing the remotes, it was only after utilizing the wired remotes. In the AUTO fan speed mode the room temps are still maintained, but the system seems prioritize heads, fan speed, and thus amount of heat.
Thanks for sharing your experience. The behavior you described - with the defrost mode changing based on the type of remote you are using - is the type of thing we found frustrating. It's hard to tune it to the way you want when you can't figure out what it's doing in the first place. For us with 10' ceilings we found the interior fan has to run at pretty high speed to get even heating down at people height. So we've mostly switched to electric resistance heating (see video's about warmstep mats) and find that a lot better despite the fact it will probably cost more. The miin-split will be great for cooling in the summer when we want cool air to sink but it just doesn't seem to work well for heating.
Is there no way to have the temperature sensor that’s built into the remote controller that comes with the unit control the head unit?
Can you please to a video on how to actually setup that remote thermostat? You kind of left me hanging as I have just received that thermostat.
You mean the wired thermostat? I wasnt' going to make another video about just that one. There is a part in this video in the middle about where it plugs into the PCB. Otherwise I think it comes with instructions about all the installer functions that you can set however you like. But if you have a specific question I can try to help. It's worth noting that we ultimately decided against using the mini-split for heating since it had to run all the time at high fan speed to get adequate heat down at people level.
Are you satisfied with mini split system?
To be honest we really don't like it for heating. The main problem is that the inside fans have to run at a pretty high speed to get the heat down low enough. Since mini-splits don't produce as hot of air they have to run more too so you feel like it's constantly blowing air that's not all that warm. We ended up putting electric heating under floor mats in and like that a lot better (check out Thermosoft videos). The mini-split was fine during cooling season so that's probably all we'll use it for.
Thanks for the reply. I'm building a small house for my daughter and was thinking about mini splits. I was afraid that would be your answer. I was also thinking about radiant heat in the floor. I'm not sure what the answer is. We're in MO in not sure where you are but the winters can get a little cold here. I'll check out the other video right now.
(My wife's maiden name, Beckham.)
We're in a part of CA where it does get below freezing overnight, but only for a few hours. If you're in the mid-west with long cold winters I think you really won't like it. If we could do it over I'd install radiant pipes in the slab and heat the water with an air-to-water heat pump. Alternatively you could heat it with a wood-fired outdoor boiler if electricity costs are a concern.
Where is the installer code list?
This is the manual for the wired remote. It has a table with all the settings. lghvac.com/resource-service?filename=IM_SimpleRemoteController_PREMTC00U.pdf